Viral and fungal diseases of hydrangea and their treatment. Hydrangea diseases - how to protect the plant from death? Hydrangea white bloom on the leaves

landscaping 16.06.2019
landscaping

Hydrangea - beautiful plant, and not as problematic as roses, for example. But she also has her problems.

Hydrangea diseases.

Chlorosis - with this disease, hydrangeas become clarified leaves with dark veins. This happens from an excess of lime, and hydrangea loves acidic soil. To correct the situation, you need to pour 2-3 times with potassium nitrate (40 g per 10 liters of water), and after 10 days with ferrous sulfate, also dilute 40 g in a bucket of water.

Tracheomycotic wilt- a fungal disease that affects the roots, which turn brown and rot. Then the mycelium fills the entire vascular system plants. And since the influx of nutrients stops, then starting from the upper young shoots, the plant dies. With this hydrangea disease, these shoots first wither, and then turn yellow, turn brown and completely dry out. On leaves in adults, the veins of the leaves become brown.

On sections of cuttings and roots, you can see the developing plaque of the mycelium. With fusarium pinkish white, with verticillosis - grayish, more airy.

the same plaque appears on hydrangeas with white sclerocial rot

White sclerocial rot- with this disease, the roots are first affected and, as a result, the flow of nutrients stops, the plant stops growing, turns brown and dries up. If young plants get sick, they also turn brown, then rot, and then become covered with a white cotton-like coating.

Gray rot - in this case, brown, depressed spots appear on the stems, which increase rapidly. The spots on the leaves are brown without a border and in dry weather they crack and fall out, forming holes. If the weather is damp, then those parts of the plant that are affected by gray rot are covered with a fluffy smoky-gray mycelium. From it, the infection goes further to neighboring leaves and flowers.

common or european cancer

Ordinary or European crayfish - introduced from planting material, very many, if not all, are amazed by them deciduous shrubs and trees. It occurs on weakened planting material in places where the plant has suffered from hail, where there is mechanical damage, in dense plantings.

It manifests itself in the form of elongated brown spots on the bark, then this spot dries up, cracks and a crack of a brown ulcer opens. Over time, the ulcer becomes deeper, the wood dies off and the stem dries up. With this disease, side shoots dry out during the growing season. The infection persists in the affected wood.

powdery mildew

Powdery mildew - with this disease, spots of a grayish powdery-spider web coating appear on young leaves. The plaque may then darken or even be erased, but the spots become red-brown and these places near the leaves dry up and fall off.

Tubercular necrosis of the cortex-during the growing season, plants experience a sharp browning and drying of shoots with leaves, this is due to the death (necrosis) of the bark. After the stems dry up, brick-red pads up to 2 mm in diameter form on their bark, then they can darken and dry out.

Many deciduous trees and shrubs are affected by necrosis. The infection persists in the affected stems.

Ascochitous spotting- spots are rounded, irregular shape, grow, yellowish-brick, brown border around the edges. Leaves turn yellow and fall prematurely.

Phyllostic spotting- the spots are dark red or black, merging, then the center of the spots brightens to a grayish color, but a purple-brown border always remains along the edges of the spots.

Septoria spotting- spots are numerous, dark brown, scattered over the sheet. The affected leaf tissue brightens in the center, but a thin brown rim remains. If the plant is severely affected, then spots appear on young stems and petioles. The infection remains in the affected remnants. When affected by this fungal disease, the ripening of the shoots worsens and they do not winter well.

The diseases listed above are fungal, with proper prevention in the spring, the problem of these diseases can be solved. Be sure to carry out sanitary pruning of dry branches and bushes, do not allow the bush to thicken. Every spring, spray the hydrangea bush with 1% Bordeaux mixture or substitutes (HOM or Abiga-Peak). It can get rid of fungal diseases, in particular, it can solve the problem of cancer, bark necrosis, leaf spot of the fungal nature of the lesion.

In order to prevent the development of powdery mildew, at the first sign, spray Chistotsvet, Cumulus, Thiovit Jet with preparations.

But ring spot- a viral disease, and then the plant will have to be discarded and burned.

Ring spotting appears as light, dotted, round spots on young leaves. The leaves may have a slight deformation of the plate, an asymmetric shape and irregular venation. If the plant is severely affected by this disease, then flowering will be weak, the flowers will be underdeveloped and small.

The flower is endowed with good immunity, but not proper care and the vagaries of nature can provoke the occurrence diseases. It is very important to recognize the problem in time in order to provide timely assistance.

leaf diseases

Occupy a leading number among all diseases.

Why do hydrangea leaves turn yellow?

  • Yellowing foliage may indicate an excess of moisture. Although the hydrangea loves frequent and abundant watering, with excessive accumulation of water, it loses its attractiveness.
  • Pay attention to the acidity of the soil. If it is reduced, you can add a few drops during watering. lemon juice for one liter of water. Repeat the procedure several times.
  • Protect the bush from drafts, hypothermia, sudden changes in temperature.
  • Do not plant a flower in open sunny areas. He will be comfortable in the penumbra of large fruit trees or next to spreading shrubs. If he is on sunny side, try to create diffused lighting conditions.
  • Yellowing foliage may be due to a lack of nutrients. Feed regularly.
  • os look at the leaves. If they have a grayish coating in the form of spots, infection is possible powdery mildew. Requires insecticide treatment.

Hydrangea leaves dry, what to do?

  • Lack of moisture, especially in dry summers.
  • Dry air. This is often encountered when growing in closed or semi-open greenhouses. It is recommended to ventilate the greenhouse if possible, install a humidifier, spray the air.
  • Sometimes the tips of the leaves begin to dry after an improper transplant, during which the roots were damaged. Even if you followed the rules, no one is immune from an accidental mistake. You have to be patient and get to work. Every 10 days, zircon treatment will be required. Up to 2 months may be required to restore health and strength.
  • Nutrient deficiencies also affect health, especially during flower formation and flowering. Fertilizers should be applied at least once every 7-9 days.

Why do hydrangea leaves turn black?

First, the gardener needs to understand whether he is dealing with sluggish or dry blackening. In each case, there are reasons and ways to improve the plant.

How boswarm with dry blackening?

In the case of dry blackening, large brownish spots form along the edges of the leaves, they become dry and fade. The reasons:

  • Sunburn. Keep bushes out of direct sunlight. This applies both when growing in a greenhouse and in an open area.
  • Excessively hard water for irrigation. Gardeners often take cold water from the column. But in many areas it contains lime and other impurities. Be sure to defend it before watering. Place large tubs on the site and fill them in the morning or evening. Better place in a sunny area so that the water has time to warm up during the day.

How to deal with sluggish (wet) blackening?

It is not difficult to distinguish it by dark and limp leaves. The reasons:

  • Excessive and abundant moisture.
  • Drafts, sudden changes in temperature, too cold summer. In the latter case, you can protect the root system with a layer of mulch.
  • Pay attention to the composition of the earth. Plant a flower in a loose, light, nutrient soil. Heavy soil retains moisture, prevents breathing and nutrition.

Chlorosis

Occurs with iron deficiency. It is characterized by a violation of the formation of chlorophyll. The plates turn yellow, and the veins remain green. Iron may not be enough in the soil, or the flower itself, for physiological reasons, has lost the ability to absorb the mineral.

Signs of chlorosis can be different: reduction in the size of the leaves and their color, twisting of the plate, deformation of the buds, drying of the shoots.

Control and prevention measures:

  • Pay attention to the characteristics of the soil. It should be nutritious, well pass oxygen to the roots. Water regularly with acidified water to maintain proper soil balance.
  • If the disease began to develop, feed the bushes with iron preparations (in chelate form): Ferovit, Antichlorosis and others. You can also prepare iron chelate at home. To do this, dilute 4 grams of citric acid in one liter of water and add 2 grams of ferrous sulfate. The solution can be used for watering and spraying. By the way, iron chelate will act faster if you make it on the sheet!

Septoria

A disease in which dark brown spots 2-6 mm in diameter appear on the leaves (septoria spotting). The causative agent is Septoria. Affected leaves gradually turn yellow, die and fall off. As a result, the plant may completely lose its leaves. When the disease spreads, spots also appear on petioles and young shoots.

How to deal with septoria?

  • Fallen leaves must be collected and destroyed in time to prevent the spread of the disease on the site.
  • Affected shoots cut off with the capture of a healthy part. Treat the places of cuts with garden broth.
  • In the spring, treatment with a solution of Bordeaux liquid is required, as well as chemicals - Ridomit Gold, Profit.
  • If the azalea is grown in a greenhouse, keep an eye on the humidity of the air.

rust on flowers

This is a fungal disease during which a rusty tint forms on flowers, leaves and shoots. Maybe due to excessive planting density, an excess of nitrogen in the ground.

Rust control garden hydrangea

Treatment with copper oxychloride is required (40 grams of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water). Some gardeners use Bordeaux liquid, but it can leave marks. You can purchase drugs: Ordan, Topaz or Falcon.

Pest control

Garden hydrangea often becomes a "target" of various pests. It is important to recognize the onset of the lesion in time and take measures to improve, otherwise the flower will begin to fade.

Common pests

    1. Downy mildew. You can recognize it by oily spots on the surface of the leaves. Over time, they spread, turn yellow, acquire a dark shade. A yellowish coating forms on the underside of the leaves and young shoots. Powdery mildew is often found when grown in greenhouse conditions, with high humidity and an air temperature of 17-20 degrees.

      To get rid of the pest, you need to treat it with a soap-copper mixture prepared from 150 grams of green soap, 15 grams of copper sulfate and 10 liters of water.

    1. Spider mite - settles on the lower sides of the leaves, covering them with a brown cobweb. Then they become a marble color, dry up and fall off. The spider mite is an insidious enemy. At high temperature (27-30 degrees) and low humidity, it spreads in just 5-7 days.

      You can fight the tick with thiophos.

    1. Green leaf aphid - at least dangerous pest. It sucks out the juice, leaves a sugary unpleasant discharge in which fungi form. The aphid spreads quickly, the leaves turn yellow and crumble. Settles on the bottom of the sheet.

      You can fight aphids with insecticides.

  1. Slugs - attack in conditions of too dense and frequent landing. They cause harm by eating foliage. You can fight them with a molluscicide (granular drug). It is scattered near the bushes on the surface of the earth.

How to reanimate hydrangea after winter?

If the flowers were properly prepared before the onset of cold weather (hidden under cover), there will be no problems. With the onset of spring, the flowers will come to life and will delight you with new blooms in the summer. But what if the flower was left without shelter in winter? It will be difficult to return to the previous look. But, this task is quite feasible.

  • Treatment will be required to protect against fungal diseases Bordeaux mixture or copper solution.
  • The affected foliage and twigs are removed and the treatment is repeated after two weeks.
  • Pay attention to the ground. acidify it weak lemon solution.
  • Must be sorted out appearance plants, remove dead, dry twigs, feed. This year it will not bloom, but if you take all the necessary measures and properly prepare for the next wintering, in a year it will gain strength and bloom again.

Hydrangea - charming flower who loves constant attention and care. Take good care of him and he will become the main decoration of your summer country garden.

– amazing flowering plant, which can decorate a room, terrace, balcony, flower garden or garden.

Lush bushes with bright green foliage are strewn with flower caps of various delicate shades: white, pink, red, lilac, blue. I would like to always see such a plant healthy and blooming, but some problems may arise in the process of growing.

Hydrangea is quite resistant to diseases and pests. but still requires constant care and attention. The whims of nature and improper care can lead to various diseases. In this case, it is important to identify the problem in time and know how to solve it correctly and quickly.

In the article you will see everything about hydrangeas and plant treatment, as well as photos of problems.

External stimuli

In addition to pest infestation and pronounced diseases, there are external factors that negatively affect the beauty and health of hydrangeas. For example, yellowing of the leaves can be caused by such irritants:

  • Bright scorching sun. The plant prefers to be in partial shade, so too much light can be harmful.
  • Overmoistening of the soil. Although hydrangea loves moisture, excessive water accumulation can cause foliage to turn yellow.
  • Lack of fertilizer. For growth and lush flowering, hydrangea needs regular top dressing.
  • Decreased acidity of the soil. The flower needs acidic soil (pH 3-6). Even the color of the flowers depends on the level of acidity: the more acidic the soil, the more violet and blue colors, closer to neutral - white and pink shades predominate. To increase acidity, periodically during watering, add 2-4 drops of lemon juice to 1 liter of water.

Sometimes the foliage of the hydrangea begins to dry out and fall off. The reason also lies in external stimuli:

  • Insufficient watering, especially in hot weather.
  • Low humidity environment. This often happens in enclosed spaces, greenhouses. It is important to regularly ventilate and humidify the air.
  • Lack of nutrients. Top dressing of hydrangeas is carried out 1 time in 7-10 days. This is especially important during bud formation and flowering.

Sometimes a grower may encounter blackening of hydrangea leaves. It can be dry or wet and is also caused by external factors.

Dry blackening manifests itself in the formation of brown spots on the edges of the leaves, which subsequently lead to the withering of the foliage. The reason may be:

  • Hard water. Before watering, it is recommended to defend the water for at least a day;
  • Sunburn. It is important to protect the plant from direct sunlight.

Wet blackening determined by the limp, darkened leaves. It may appear due to:

  • Sudden temperature changes, drafts;
  • excessive watering;
  • Heavy soil that retains moisture and prevents breathing.

Hydrangea chlorosis

Chlorosis occurs due to a lack of iron in the soil or as a result of a metabolic disorder in the plant itself, as a result of which it cannot absorb iron.

The main sign of chlorosis is lightening and yellowing of the foliage.. At the same time, the veins on the leaves remain dark.

In addition, there may be a decrease in the size of the leaves, deformation of the buds, twisting of the leaf plates, drying of the shoots.

When a disease is detected, it is important to feed the plant with preparations containing iron in a chelate form, for example, Antichlorosis and Ferovit.

Also medicinal composition you can cook by yourself. To do this, dissolve in a liter of water 2 grams of iron sulfate and 4 grams citric acid. This solution should be sprayed with hydrangea leaves, and with an advanced form of the disease, and watered under the root.

Another way to treat hydrangea chlorosis is to use a solution of potassium nitrate and iron sulfate. To do this, 40 grams of potassium nitrate is diluted in a bucket of water. Hydrangea is watered with this solution 2-3 times. After 3 days, ferrous sulfate should be watered in the same concentration.

Fungal diseases of hydrangea

white rot begins with the defeat of the root system, since the pathogen fungus is in the soil. As a result, the plant cannot receive the necessary nutrients, turns brown and eventually dies.

A sign of illness on young hydrangeas is the darkening of the shoots and the appearance of a white coating on them, similar to cotton wool. If the flower is not treated, black blotches appear on the “cotton wool” - sclerotia.

To combat white rot, fungicides such as Fitosporin, Fundazol, Copper Chloroxide are effective.

Gray rot manifested in the softness and wateriness of hydrangea tissues. In a humid environment, a gray "fluff" appears on the plant. In dry weather, the affected parts dry up and die, leaving behind holes in the leaves and stems.

The first step in the fight against gray rot is the removal of the affected and dead parts. In treatment indoor views hydrangeas have proven themselves Chistotsvet, Fundazol, Skor. When sick garden hydrangea it is recommended to treat Rovral Flo 255 SC three times at 3 week intervals.

Septoria can be identified by dark brown spots on the leaves, 2-6 mm in diameter. Leaves gradually die and fall off.

Without treatment, the hydrangea can lose all foliage and die. With an advanced form of the disease, spots also appear on the shoots.

To get rid of septoria, all affected parts are removed, and the plant itself is treated with preparations containing copper, for example, copper oxychloride, copper sulfate.

powdery mildew It is determined by yellow-green spots on the leaves, which eventually become brown and acquire a clear shape.

On the back of the leaves you can see a purple or gray bloom. Without treatment, the leaves fall off, and the young shoots affected by the fungus are deformed and do not survive the winter.

For the treatment of powdery mildew, fungicides are used: Fitosporin, Alirin. At advanced stages - Skor, Topaz, Thiovit Jet, Chistotsvet.

This article is often read:

Rust

A disease that is easily identified by a rusty coating on shoots, leaves and flowers.

The cause of the problem may be the high density of planting hydrangeas or an excess of nitrogen in the soil.

Fungicides Topaz, Falcon, Ordan are also effective. Dosage - according to the instructions.

ring spot

The most common viral disease hydrangea is a ring spot. At the beginning, it appears as blurry spots in the form of rings, about 2 cm in diameter.

Because of them, the leaves of the plant are deformed, wrinkled and eventually die. The disease affects the ability to lay buds: either the hydrangea completely loses it, or the flowers are weak and small.

Unfortunately, there is no cure for ring spot yet.

When planting, it is important to choose healthy seedlings., since this disease is transmitted through seedlings. And when propagating by cuttings, it is important to make sure that the mother plant is completely healthy.

Hydrangea pests

leaf aphid. The main harm that the hydrangea aphid causes is that it sucks the cell sap from the plant and leaves behind sugary secretions, which, in turn, serve as a food source for the dangerous soot fungus. Aphids reproduce very quickly.

As a result, the flower grows very slowly, and with a strong lesion, the leaves are deformed and turn yellow, top part hydrangeas may die off.

Aphids are very delicate, they do not attach tightly to the plant, so if there are not very many pests, you can get rid of them by watering the hydrangea with a powerful jet of water, while trying not to damage the flower. Washing with soapy water is also effective.

In advanced cases, when the aphid has formed entire colonies, it is necessary to use insecticides, for example, Fitoverma, Aktara, Sparks, Bison or Akarina. Aphids are eaten by ladybugs.

spider mite. It settles on the back side of the leaves. It can be identified by small yellow spots, merging with time into a marble pattern.

At high temperature and low humidity, it entangles the entire plant in 5-7 days.

In this case, a small cobweb and the pests themselves will be visible. As a result, the leaves dry up and fall off.

On the initial stage get rid of spider mite You can by treating the hydrangea with soapy water. If there are a lot of pests, it is necessary to use insecticides, such as Thiofos, Akarin, Lightning, Fitoverm.

Slug. Slugs often start up where the hydrangea plantings are too dense and thick. The harm they cause is eating the leaves of the plant.

You can get rid of this pest with the help of a granular preparation - Molluscocide. It spreads over the surface of the earth where slugs have been seen.

Prevention of diseases and pests

Prevention - the best treatment. If the hydrangea is healthy, it is unlikely to get sick, and if it does happen, it will endure the disease with firmness. If the plant is weakened, then viruses, fungi or pests can severely damage it.

What will become the prevention of diseases and pests and help grow a strong, healthy and beautiful flower:

  • Correct location. In the scorching sun, the leaves and flowers begin to fade quickly. Therefore, it is optimal for hydrangeas to grow in partial shade;
  • Sufficient watering. The plant loves moisture, so it is impossible to allow the soil to dry out. On hot summer days, it is necessary to water the bush every other day;
  • The right choice of soil - hydrangea will not survive on heavy alkaline soils. She needs an acidic, light soil that allows air and moisture to pass through well;
  • Proper top dressing: at the end of spring, emphasis should be placed on nitrogen fertilizers, in summer - on phosphorus-potassium, and in autumn - mainly phosphorus;
  • Preventive treatment of hydrangea wood. In the spring, before the start of the growing season, it is recommended to treat the hydrangea bush with copper sulfate at the rate of 100 grams per bucket of water. Another option is to use preventive treatment more modern drugs - Topaz, Iskra, Fitosporin.

With proper care and constant care, the hydrangea will grow lush and beautiful. It will become a bright decoration of your house or garden!

Now you know everything about the diseases of the leaves and flowers of room and garden hydrangeas and their treatment, and also saw the photo.

Violations of this kind are usually clearly visible and are caused by 3 reasons:

  • Sun burns.
  • Lack or excess of water.
  • Poor mineral balance of the soil.

Chlorosis

It arises from a lack of iron or an excess of lime in the soil.

Symptoms: yellowing and drying of the leaves, while the veins remain green. The disease can capture the entire leaf or appear as large spots.

Treatment: if it is not known exactly what caused the disease, you can start with measures to soften the pH of the soil.

  • Soften, acidify the soil with peat or aluminum sulfate. The dosage depends on the degree of alkalization of the soil and ranges from 2 to 5 kg/m3.
  • For preventive purposes, flowers are watered with rainwater or water is softened for irrigation (water becomes softer after standing for several days. You can also soften water with ash or peat).
  • Reduce fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.

If it's an iron deficiency:

  • Homemade iron supplement. 2 g of iron sulfate per 1 liter of water. Soften the solution with 4 g of citric acid.
  • When the hydrangea bad condition, it is wiser to use a store-bought preparation with ferrous sulfate - it will be quickly absorbed by the plant.

Indirectly, one can judge the Ph of the soil by the colors. bright flowers talking about normal acidity soils that are dull or neutral in tone may indicate alkalization.

Hydrangea

Leaf burns

In the strong sun in summer, hydrangea can get burned. They look like translucent spots, usually white color. Affected areas become thinner, may dry out.

Treatment: shade the plant. When transferring a flower from a shaded area to a strong sun, it is imperative to shade and gradually reduce the shadow.

On a note! Burns are most often characteristic of the hydrangea tree disease.

dry black leaves

Too strong sun and hard water - this is why hydrangea leaves turn black. It happens that the leaves of the hydrangea turn brown around the edge. If no action is taken, blackening can affect the entire flower.

Treatment: shade the flower and use softened water. Then the brown spots on the hydrangeas will gradually disappear.

Wet black leaves

From a sharp change in temperature or excessive watering, the foliage may turn black, lose shape, and become lethargic. That is why the leaves of the garden hydrangea turn black.

Hydrangea leaves curl - why? This happens if herbicides were sprayed nearby (for example, a lawn was treated). The fact is that this flower is extremely sensitive to herbicidal substances in the soil.

Hydrangea diseases

Hydrangea not blooming

There may be several reasons:

  • Newbie mistake - pruning all shoots for the winter. Buds are formed on last year's branches, in the fall. Flowers will not form on this year's shoots.
  • Frozen buds. Usually this applies to large-leaved hydrangea, its buds should be well wrapped for the winter with agrofiber or straw.
  • Light. In bright sun, it may not bloom at all or bloom weakly. Hydrangea loves diffused light.
  • Watering and feeding. Regular watering is necessary, the plant loves water. Feeding can also solve the problem. Usually hydrangea is fed when the buds appear and in early autumn.

It is important to know that due to various growth enhancers, hydrangea can give buds in the first year, but there will be no full-fledged flowers until it is formed. root system. This only happens for 2 years.

fungal diseases

Caused by small pathogenic fungi. it dangerous diseases hydrangeas, their treatment can be difficult. This is usually associated with high humidity, contamination of the soil and plants.

Fact! Petiole hydrangea is more disease resistant.

white rot

The fungus infects the roots and absorbs the nutrients intended for the shoots. Infection occurs through various plant debris, from neighboring plants. It develops especially rapidly in closed greenhouses, greenhouses, open ground is not so dangerous. If you do not fight the fungus, the plant will die and infect the nearest "neighbors".

Symptoms:

  • Darkened shoots.
  • Rotting stems near the ground.
  • White, cotton-like coating on the leaves.

Later, dark spots and blotches appear on the plaque. If the infection has reached the stage of white plaque, it is better to remove the plant, otherwise it will infect the entire flower garden.

Hydrangea diseases

Necessary complex treatment otherwise the fungus will start to spread.

  • Cut out infected areas and treat the sections with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
  • Spray the plants with products containing copper (Bordeaux mixture, a solution of copper sulphate and special preparations from white rot).

Folk remedy for white rot: a teaspoon of vitriol and 3 liters of whey per 6 liters of water. For processing, a sprayer is used.

White rot can infect almost all plants in the garden. If the affected area on the plant is too large, it is best to remove it and burn it so as not to jeopardize nearby plants.

Gray rot

Leaves and young soft tissues are affected. It usually appears from waterlogging - excessive watering or too dense foliage, crowding of plants. The fungus spreads rapidly in a humid environment.

Symptoms: soft gray coating on the leaves. It can dry out and crumble into dust, uneven holes remain in the tissues of the plant.

Gray rot

Treatment: the main thing is to remove dead areas in time and burn them.

  • Treat the plant after removing dead tissue with potassium permanganate, as is the case with white rot. If the disease has gone too far, it is better to destroy the flower so as not to infect others.
  • Sick bushes need to be sprayed with a solution Bordeaux mixture(1% solution) or Fundazol.

Gray rot is no less contagious than white rot, affects vegetables, fruit trees, flowers, leguminous plants.

Downy mildew (downy mildew)

Occurs when elevated level humidity and high (more than 20 °C) temperature.

Symptoms: oily, darkening over time spots on the leaves. If treatment is not carried out in time, the spots spread to the stems.

Important! It is impossible to delay the treatment of peronosporosis, the fungus is treated easily only on initial stage defeat.

  • Remove affected areas. Treat the sections with potassium permanganate.
  • Spray the plants with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, Optimo, Kuproksat preparations.

Peronosporosis affects other flowers: sweet peas, marigolds, primrose, chrysanthemum. It can also be dangerous for vegetable crops.

Powdery mildew real

Usually affects young weakened plants. Often associated with an excess of nitrogenous fertilizers and insufficient watering.

Symptoms: dull yellow-green spots on the leaves, a gray, sometimes purple bloom appears on the back of the leaves.

Powdery mildew causes leaves to fall and the plant to die.


It must be remembered that when using drugs of the fungicidal group, you need to take breaks of 1 year. Otherwise, the fungus can get used to and develop immunity.

Powdery mildew in different crops has its own pathogens, the hydrangea fungus is not dangerous for other crops on the site.

Septoria

Disease of wet cold summer. Leaves are affected, usually the fungus spreads from the lower shoots to the upper ones.

Symptoms: spots up to 5 mm in diameter. Light in the center and dark brown towards the edges. With severe damage, spots may appear on the stems.

The affected plant soon begins to dry out, drop leaves and may die.


Septoria can infect many horticultural crops: apple, quince, eggplant, raspberries. It is also dangerous for asters, chrysanthemums, peony, phlox.

Rust

Fungal disease that affects many cultivated plants. Occurs from excess water and nitrogenous fertilizers.

Symptoms: small yellow spots yellow color. Later, brown growths develop on the spots, the leaves dry and fall off. Small rusty dust can fall out of the growths. These are fungal spores that are easily carried by the wind and can kill other plants.


There are several types of rust fungus, almost indistinguishable from the outside. Some of the species are capable of infecting most horticultural crops not just flowers.

Viral diseases of hydrangea

Typical modes of infection are garden tool, from a nursery, with new plants, or with dead parts infected plants. Animal pests can also be carriers of viruses.

ring spot

It spreads regardless of external conditions, dangerous for panicled hydrangeas.

Symptoms: Spots form in the form of rings on the leaves. At the next stage, the leaves lose their shape, shrink, fall off.

Important! The disease is contagious for the nightshade family, strawberries, grapes, and currants. It is also dangerous for onions, cucumbers, cabbage and celery.

A flower affected by ring spot is likely to stop blooming or produce weakened buds. The plant often dies. If the hydrangea is sick with this virus - what to do, there is no medicine, you will have to destroy the bush. All efforts should be directed to prevention. Planting material should be taken only from proven, healthy plants.

hydrangea cancer

The disease appeared relatively recently, with varietal material from Western Europe. It is believed that weakened plants are susceptible to disease, especially those with mechanical damage, such as hail.

Symptoms: brown spots on stems, leaves. On the reverse side, ulcers appear under the spots.

There is no cure for the disease. The best method of struggle is to remove and burn the affected areas. With a deep defeat of the plant, it is better to destroy it in order to avoid an epidemic. If the disease is not treated, the ulcers increase in size, the shoots die off and the plant dries up. There are no exact data on the infectivity of hydrangea cancer for other crops.

Hydrangea diseases

Disease prevention

Prevention is always safer and more effective than treatment. Here are the main preventive measures:

The aphid colony usually sits in a cluster and is clearly visible on the plant. The first sign that there are aphids on the hydrangea will be drying and yellowing of the leaves.

  • When the colony is small, it is enough to wash the plant with a solution of soap or douse it with water from a hose.
  • If the colony is large, you need to use special insecticides - Iskra, Bison, Akarina. Means are toxic, you must strictly follow the description and instructions.

On a note! Marigolds growing nearby attract ladybugs- natural enemies of aphids. Thus, planting these flowers serves as a natural prevention of aphids.

A proven home remedy is a decoction of tobacco dust. The advantage of a home remedy will be its lower toxicity compared to insecticides.

spider mite

Quite a tiny tick, almost invisible. It feeds on plant sap. Actively breeds in a dry hot season.

spider mite

  • While the lesion is small, you can get by with applying a soapy solution or any mineral oil to the leaves.
  • In case of dangerous infection, apply special means against a tick - Akarin, Lightning.

The therapeutic effect of tobacco dust is not as great as against aphids.

gall nematode

Microscopic primitive worm. It affects the roots of plants, sneaks into the trunks. Having multiplied, it can literally poison the plant with caustic secretions.

Important! If the plant is affected by a nematode, there is no reliable treatment. So all hope for prevention.

Prevention:

The slug eats the leaves of plants, prefers young leaves and tips of shoots. Feels especially good in dense thickets, loves shade and high humidity. Slugs are easy to detect by characteristic leaf damage, they usually hide in the axils of the leaves or under stones in shaded places.

garden slug

Slugs are a serious danger for very young plants, in the spring in greenhouses.

Slugs are usually collected by hand, and the clutches of their eggs are destroyed in the axils of plants. Special chemicals, such as Molluscicide, are toxic.

Preventive treatment with preparations containing copper and fungicides will help resist fungal infections. Hydrangea seedlings should be healthy and not cause suspicion, this will avoid viral diseases, for which there is simply no cure.

The most dangerous hydrangea pest is the gall nematode, against which only prevention helps. Suitable soil, proper care and attention will save hydrangeas, keep them healthy.

Any personal plot will be transformed into better side if a magnificent hydrangea (Hydrangea) is planted on its territory. It is a plant showing bright, lush bloom, received approval from many summer residents.

As practice shows, caring for hydrangea in open field is simple and not labor intensive. Knowledge of its features, nuances will be the key to growing beautiful flowers, which will cause pride in the gardener and envy of his neighbors.

large-leaved hydrangea

The beautiful large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrángea macrophýlla) is a shrub covered with large, broad, egg-shaped leaves. Flowering culture is observed in the period: mid-summer - early autumn. The size of the inflorescences of this species is very impressive, their diameter can be about 30 cm.

According to flower growers, macrophile hydrangea adapts without problems in a flower bed or in a pot. She likes warmth, so during the cold season, the bushes need to provide shelter. gorgeous flowers in most cases they are white or pink in color.

Paniculata hydrangea

Flower growers with experience are confident that planting a paniculata hydrangea will certainly succeed, since this species considered the most unpretentious, frost-resistant. The height of a shrub plant can be about 2.5 m, and the tree trunk can reach a length of 10 m. The shape of the inflorescences of the culture is elongated, cone-shaped. The period of blooming buds falls on the second half of summer.

Breeders with enviable frequency present new, very spectacular varieties, hybrids of this species, to the court of flower growers. In particular, the paniculata hydrangea Vanille Fraise pleases the eye with unusually delicate inflorescences. The white color of its petals by the end of the warm season is replaced by light purple.

Gorgeous hydrangea paniculata Pink Diamond must be grown in the garden. Its lush flowering will attract everyone's attention, cause admiration, surprise. The inflorescences of the plant in the form of panicles initially have a white color, which later becomes pink-coral.

Hydrangea Bretschneider

The fruiting hydrangea of ​​Bretschneider is characterized by flowering in the period July - August. The flowers of the plant are small. They gather in inflorescences in the form of umbrellas (maximum 15 cm in diameter). The flowers located at the edges delight with long flowering, the middle specimens fade quickly.

As it blooms, the soft white color of the petals acquires purple or reddish tones. The shape of the shrub is compact, its crown is wide or rounded. The plant is able to calmly endure wintering, drought.

tree hydrangea

In practice, care tree hydrangea turns out to be pretty simple. To date, there are many varietal forms of this culture. The height of the bush is about 3 m. Its inflorescences are umbrella-shaped, they bear fruit at the end of the season. The shape of large, smooth leaves can be different: ovoid, serrated, heart-shaped, ribbed. The flowers of the culture have a pink or purple color.

petiolate hydrangea

Petiole hydrangea is a shrub vine. It has the ability to cling to piece supports, due to the presence of air suction cups. In such cases, the plant can reach a height of about 25 m. If the culture does not have props, it will spread along the ground.

This variety of hydrangea often adorns arches, gazebos, is used in the formation of living green hedges. Its white or pale pink, rapidly falling flowers are collected in thyroid inflorescences, the diameter of which often reaches 25 cm.

Reproduction of hydrangea: ways

Modern flower growers practice hydrangea propagation using cuttings or the seed method. The latter is considered more labor intensive. It is mainly used for the purpose of carrying out breeding experiments.

Propagation of a plant by seeds

Planting seeds implies the presence of loose, nutrient substrate in which the planting material will be placed. In order not to be mistaken, you need to know in advance: what hydrangea seeds look like, so as not to confuse them with grains of other crops. After being placed in soil mix, crops should be covered with a thin layer of earth, moistened by spraying water from a spray bottle.

The box with seedlings is covered with a film or glass, installed in a place where the germination temperature will be maintained + 14 ... + 20 º C. Seedlings can be expected to appear in 1 - 1.5 months.

Propagation of culture by cuttings

As part of the pruning procedure, you can stock up on planting material. When deciding how to cut a hydrangea, you need to prepare pieces from the removed shoots that have 2 nodes each. They should be planted in a container filled with a peat-sand mixture with a 3 cm deepening of the lower part, followed by watering.

Above the sides of the tank, it is necessary to build a shelter from polyethylene film. Periodically, you will need to spray the soil to keep it moist. Rooted shoots are subsequently planted in open ground.

Growing hydrangeas: planting and care

Studying the information, garden hydrangea: planting and care, you can get an idea about the cultivation of this elegant plant on the territory of your personal plot. Initially, you will need to decide on the place that will be allocated for planting the crop.

Site Requirements

good growth, abundant flowering hydrangea will demonstrate if it is allocated an area with sufficient lighting, protected from drafts. Colored varieties need a little shading at noon. A flower bed illuminated will be optimal sunbeams in the first half of the day, shaded in the afternoon.

Planting a plant in the ground

In order for the planting of hydrangeas to be successful, you should correctly approach the implementation of this event. Initially, you will need to prepare landing pits by digging recesses with the following dimensions: depth 1 m, diameter 50 cm. The interval between the recesses should be about 1 - 1.5 m.

The prepared recesses are filled with a soil mixture, which must include humus (2 shares), leaf ground(2 shares), sand (1 share), peat (1 share).

A flower grower who knows: how to plant a hydrangea, it is advisable to calculate the required amount of fertilizer. The introduction of humus (10 kg) involves the use of urea (20 gr.), Potassium sulfate (20 gr.), Granulated superphosphate (60 gr.).

The bushes are planted so as to ensure the location of the root collar at ground level, after which the soil is compacted and well watered. It is important that young plants are protected from the bright sun, drafts.

Transplanting hydrangea to another place

Very often, when growing hydrangeas in the country, it becomes necessary to transplant them, and since such an event is a serious stress, the culture must first be prepared.

In the autumn, at the end of the flowering of the bush, its branches are fastened, a ditch is dug around the near-trunk circle, about 30 - 40 cm deep. Compost is poured into the resulting trench, into which new young roots will grow over the next spring and summer. When autumn comes, hydrangeas are transplanted. To do this, you will need to dig a bush along the outer border of the trench and effortlessly remove it from the soil.

In the absence of time for preparations, culture transplantation is recommended in early spring. To this end, the plant is carefully dug out, avoiding damage to the maternal root, and planted in a prepared, fertilized pit.

Watering, loosening, mulching

When caring for garden hydrangea in the open field, attention should be paid to weekly abundant watering of the bushes. One-time water consumption per copy is about 15 - 20 liters. If the summer season is rainy, the number of irrigation procedures can be reduced. To enhance the strength of the shoots, it is worth adding a small dose of potassium permanganate to the water.

Twice during the season, after watering, the earth around the hydrangeas is loosened with a depth of 5–6 cm. To preserve moisture, mulching of the near-trunk circle is practiced using peat, needles, moss, sawdust (layer thickness 5–6 cm).

Pruning crops in spring and autumn

A gardener studying: how to grow hydrangea in the country should take into account that best time March is considered for pruning. Such an event should be carried out taking into account the age, size of the bush.

As a rule, the plant leaves up to 12 healthy, strong shoots. They will need to be shortened by 2 - 5 kidneys. Thanks to strong pruning, leaving stumps of 5-8 cm in size, it is possible to rejuvenate old hydrangeas. AT autumn period, after the end of flowering, it will be necessary to remove all faded inflorescences.

Feeding in early spring

If the plant was originally planted in a fertilized pit, there is no need to fertilize it for the first 1 to 2 years. Further fertilization is carried out four times a year.

To stimulate growth, top dressing is carried out in early spring using a solution that contains: water (10 l), urea (25 gr.), Potassium sulfate (35 gr.), Superphosphate (40 gr.). During the formation of buds per 1 sq.m. of soil, the following are introduced: superphosphate (80 gr.), Potassium sulfate (50 gr.). In summer, autumn, the third, fourth feeding is carried out using a solution of mullein (1: 10). Under an adult bush, 10 liters of this product are poured.

winter shelter culture

An inexperienced gardener, faced with a solution to the problem: how to care for hydrangeas in the country, should provide shelter for the roots of the plant for the winter. To do this, they can be hilled using rotted manure. Also, freezing of the root system can be prevented by equipping protective layer(12 - 15 cm) from dry leaves, moss, needles, peat.

Changing the color of inflorescences

The hydrangea has the property of changing the color of the petals depending on chemical composition soil.

This quality is absent only in varieties with white flowers. But with plants that have pink inflorescences, you can experiment.

For example, blue hydrangea acquires this color, reacting to the presence of aluminum in the soil, with acidity values ​​up to 5.5 pH. Pink petals are obtained if the bush is grown in soil with high acidity (about 6.5 pH). This coloring can be achieved when the hydrangea blooms, if phosphorus top dressings are introduced in time, which prevent the absorption of aluminum by the plant.

Plant diseases and their treatment

The gardener should study hydrangea diseases in order to be able to help the infected crop in time if necessary.

Of particular danger to the bushes are chlorosis, gray rot, powdery mildew.

If the hydrangea does not grow, it has a lightening of the foliage due to the development of chlorosis, treatment with a solution of ferrous sulfate (10 g) in water (10 l) will be required.

A bush infected with powdery mildew, the leaves of which are covered with growing, yellowing, peeling spots, should be watered with water (1 l) with dissolved copper sulphate (15 gr.).

If signs of phyllostictosis (dark brown spots on the leaves) are detected, the bush is dried and treated with preparations containing copper.

The presence of brown spots with a characteristic fluffy coating on stems, foliage, flowers is a signal of gray rot damage. The infection develops rapidly among plants that are too densely planted, with high humidity. The problem when a diseased hydrangea does not grow - what to do, you need to solve it quickly. Treatment of the disease is carried out by removing the affected areas, using Bordeaux liquid.

Decoration of any garden

The gardener who used hydrangeas in landscape design suburban area, will not be mistaken. These plants are guaranteed to give the backyard territory a special beauty and sophistication. Blooming luxurious flowers, collected in spectacular inflorescences, will surely cause the most bright emotions: joy, pride and delight. You can check out the article:

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