How to plant seedlings of fruit trees in the fall. How and when to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring? Transportation of fruit plants

When to plant trees - in spring or autumn? There is hardly an absolutely unambiguous answer to this question: and year after year according to weather conditions not necessary, and each site has its own, and any seedling, like any living organism, is distinguished by its individuality. Each season has its own set of pros and cons to take into account when deciding to plant.

The natural truth is this: wood and earth are two parts of the indivisible. Therefore, you can reunite them, that is, plant a tree in the ground, at any time of the year (excluding the period when the earth is not able to take root when it is frozen). Another thing is the sum of other accompanying conditions. It is she who determines how the seedling will take root, how it will develop further. Therefore, each plant has its own favorable time for planting and transplanting. And since autumn is in the yard, let's remember which trees should be planted right now (and why so).

As soon as the autumn chores in the beds are completed, seedlings with carefully covered roots appear in the hands of summer residents going to their plots. A short, but very responsible time for planting trees begins, and whoever is convinced of the correctness of the autumn choice is not mistaken at all.

• It's more profitable

It is much more profitable to buy seedlings in autumn: both nurseries and private gardeners begin to sell what they have just dug out. planting material. From here big choice, affordable price and the ability to evaluate the quality of the purchase. Plants at this time are often sold and last leaves, and with fresh roots (which may indicate the health of the seedling). In addition, conscientious gardeners often demonstrate the fruits inherent in this particular variety, which is very important for the buyer.

• It is easier

hassle autumn planting will deliver a little: you can limit yourself to one watering, and nature itself will complete the rest. Autumn coolness and rains will provide the seedling with the necessary soil moisture and comfort. The fact is that, despite the onset of a dormant period, the roots of the tree continue to grow until the soil cools down to a temperature of + 4 ° C. Timely planted plants will already have time to grow thin absorbent roots by the onset of stable frosts and in the new season they will start growing two or even three weeks earlier than those seedlings that were planted in the spring.

• It saves time

A purely “human factor”: autumn planting of trees will free up the summer resident of strength and time for other garden chores, which in the spring will be “above his head”.

Autumn planting is especially favorable in the southern regions, where winters are warm. The earth does not freeze to the depth of the roots, and young trees are not threatened with hypothermia and freezing.

Cons of autumn planting

• strong frosts capable of destroying immature trees;
• winter is rich in stressful situations for seedlings: strong wind, ice, snowfalls and other weather troubles can break young plants;
• in late autumn and winter, seedlings are often damaged by rodents;
• well, during the absence of the owners, seedlings in the country simply can steal other lovers of fruit trees.

Experts strongly advise avoiding fall plantings non-hardy varieties and:

• peach
• almonds;

Well, of course, it would be a mistake to plant in the autumn in the northern regions those seedlings that were brought from more southern climatic zones- they simply will not survive the frosts unusual for their homeland.

In the next video - practical advice What plants are best planted in the fall:

The optimal period for autumn tree planting is considered to be the end of September and the whole of October, and possibly even the beginning or middle of November, if the weather is warm.

• AT middle lane Russia autumn planting is carried out from mid-September to mid-October.

• AT northern regions from the beginning of September to the beginning of October.
• AT southern regions from October to mid-November.

The timing is dictated by the weather. Each year, the borders can “float”, significantly differing from the dates of previous years. There were years when it was possible to plant trees until the last days of November.

An important guideline: the best time for planting (transplanting) any seedlings is the period of their biological dormancy. Its coming is evidenced by end of leaf fall.

It also happens that in the fall it was not possible to plant a seedling. Maybe at the very end of the season you successfully got to the sale of seedlings at bargain prices, or you managed to get a wonderful desired variety that is not subject to autumn planting ... what to do in this case?

And all you need to do is take care of it, so that then you can plant it on the site. Based on practice, the three most common methods are used for this:

• storage in a cold, damp basement (cellar);
• snowing;
• digging in the ground.

In the next video, Evgeny Fedotov and Roman Vrublevsky will tell and show how to plant seedlings for storage from autumn to spring planting:

• Basement storage

If you moisten the roots of seedlings abundantly and lower them into a container filled with peat, sawdust or sand, then at temperatures from 0 ° C to + 10 ° C and a relative humidity of 87-90%, they will be perfectly preserved in the basement until planting. It is only necessary to water these seedlings in the basement every 7-10 days.

• snowing

This is the storage of seedlings on the street: properly packed, they hibernate under a sufficient layer of snow, using its magical power to prevent the temperature around the living stems from dropping below the “living level”. In conditions middle lane, Ural and Siberia for autumn planting, it is best to choose zoned ones, and if necessary - winter-hardy varieties, which are acclimatized and quickly take root. So, fruit trees of Siberian and Ural selection - pear and apple, mountain ash, mulberry and cherry plum - tolerate planting in the fall quite well.

Gardeners southern regions It is better to plant trees in autumn. In these parts, autumn is long, warm, with occasional rains, which is “the very thing” for seedlings. But spring here too quickly can be replaced by a hot summer.

seedlings, which dug ahead of schedule(before natural leaf fall) most often have unripened shoots and almost always freeze slightly.

The main thing is to remember: nature will turn its hands to any of its offspring, and we need to try to hand over healthy mature seedlings with a good root system to her in the most favorable time. Then it will not be necessary for a young tree to sit on a “sick leave” for years, and by its coming of age receive a “disability”. If everything is done correctly, no matter what season we plant - in autumn, summer or spring - the tree will respond with cheerful growth, excellent development and a rich harvest.

Many beginner gardeners ask the same questions. When is the best time to plant trees? Autumn or spring?

For planting pears, apple trees, cherry plums, plums, which period is more suitable? Just these plants take root better in the fall. Subsequently, these seedlings give larger and juicy fruits. But the goal of every owner suburban area- This good harvest. conifers on the contrary, it is recommended to plant in the spring. It is advisable to take into account these rules.

When to plant trees in autumn? The gardener can choose the period convenient for him. It is important that the tree is planted a month before the first frost. During this time, it will have time to accept. But do not rush and plant trees before all the leaves turn yellow. This will damage the seedling.

So, when to plant fruit trees in the fall? This period starts from the end of September and lasts until mid-October. If the planting date is missed, then the tree can be temporarily placed until spring. We will talk about this in more detail below.

How to select seedlings for planting?

Seedlings should be with a developed root system, grown and strong. Before planting trees in the fall, they need to be carefully examined. If the root or branches are damaged, then their experts recommend pruning to a healthy place. To do this, use a pruner. Roots should not be dry. Such a tree may not take root. The main root of the seedling must reach at least thirty-five centimeters. Many small branches should come from it. To restore seedlings with dry roots, they need to be placed for a couple of days in water or in a container with cow dung and clay.

How to plant trees?

Having dealt with the choice of high-quality specimens, with the period when to plant fruit trees in the fall, novice gardeners have another question. How to do everything right?

Planting trees begins with digging a hole. The top and bottom layers of soil must be placed in different sides. The hole should be such that the root collar is five centimeters above the ground. The width of the recess is one and a half to two times the diameter of the root.

Removed must be mixed with humus. For one seedling, one bucket of the mixture is required. Two hundred grams of superphosphate and forty grams must be added to the humus. If these fertilizers are not available, then they can be replaced with wood ash.

Before planting, the hole must be covered two-thirds of the depth with fertilizer and a stake should be fixed in it. After, we suggest placing the root in it and filling it with the rest of the soil mixed with fertilizer.

At least a bucket of water should be poured into the seedling hole (despite the autumn rainy season). Then experts recommend filling the hole with sawdust or peat, trampling it with your feet. The soil from the remaining bottom layer should be scattered around the tree. To prevent the seedling from breaking, it must be tied to a stake.

When planting trees, you need to take into account that the earth in the hole will shrink, so the root neck should not be lower than the level of the topsoil.

Mistakes when planting fruit trees in the fall

Autumn planting of trees for inexperienced gardeners is not without mistakes. What are they like?

• The period when it is possible to plant trees in the fall is incorrectly chosen.
• An excessively deep hole in which the root collar is deep underground. And this can cause rotting of the seedling (moisture exchange is disturbed).
• A large amount of organic or mineral fertilizers.
• Undiluted bovine or is added to the hole. This will subsequently burn the roots.
• Excess saltpeter can also lead to similar problems.
• Excessive pruning of the crown of seedlings.

If the boarding time has passed

Often there are situations when it is too late to plant trees in the fall. In this case, the plant is placed in a hole dug at the highest point of your land plot. In this sector, water should not stagnate. The southern wall of the ditch is dug flat, and the northern wall is half a meter high and more steep. The roots of the seedling are sprinkled with sand or earth. At the same time, they are abundantly watered. If several trees are planted, then their roots should not be intertwined. To protect the seedlings from frost, they are sprinkled with earth and only the tips of the branches are left. To protect against rodents, young trees are covered with spruce branches. When snow falls, it must be trampled around the seedling in order to create an obstacle for pests.

The seedling is stored this way until spring. When the soil thaws, it is dug out and placed in the prepared hole. This is done until the buds open.

Benefits of fall planting

When to plant trees? Autumn or spring? The choice also depends on several factors. Planting in the fall has its advantages compared to the spring procedure. The beginning of autumn is rich in planting material. Undoubtedly, this is an advantage. special care after autumn planting is not required. One watering is enough. Next, they will moisten the soil themselves. If the root system of the seedling was disturbed during planting, then during the winter the wounds will heal and suction branches will grow.

This knowledge will also be useful to beginner gardeners. There are several points when planting fruit trees in the fall is not recommended. It will be necessary to transfer the procedure to the spring. Do not rush to get young plants in your garden if a harsh winter is expected. This can cause the trees to freeze. Also, experts do not recommend autumn planting if it is noticed in the intended area a large number of rodents.

In this article, you learned when to plant trees in the fall. We hope this information will be useful to you.

Summer residents and gardeners responsibly approach the issue of choosing and planting fruit trees. Such a position is fully justified, because planting a tree is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. The quality of the future harvest directly depends on this. Let's figure out when to plant trees - in spring or autumn, and consider the advantages and disadvantages of spring planting.

Buying seedlings

The first thing to start with is to buy a young tree for planting. There is different variants where it can be done. It would be best if you go to make a purchase in a specialized store or nursery.

In addition, there are many offers to buy seedlings from hands in spontaneous markets, and not so long ago, online stores began to provide a huge selection of planting material. The last two options do not give any because there is a risk that in the end you will not get what you expect.

The right choice of planting material

So, you went to a garden exhibition or a specialized nursery to select seedlings. How not to get lost among all the variety, how to choose high-quality planting material?

First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence of clothespins. Any fruit tree must be grafted, otherwise it is just a wild growth that is of no value and does not have varietal characteristics.

Next, you need to inspect the roots. It is desirable that they grow evenly on all sides of the trunk and do not have visible damage or cone-shaped growths. The bark should not be flaccid, dry or wrinkled. Before the sale of seedlings, all their leaves are removed to avoid dehydration of the tree.

Any, even an annual plant, prepared for planting, must have a height of at least one meter. Make sure that the trunk of the seedling is evenly developed.

Now you have learned to choose and are ready to start landing, but the question arises: when? Planting fruit trees in spring or autumn is entirely up to you. The optimal disembarkation time can be determined by many factors.

When to plant trees, spring or fall?

The very first rule is that trees should be planted when they are at rest. It happens in the fall, after the cessation of active growth, and in early spring- until the sap flow began. But then another question arises. When to plant trees in spring, and when is it better to give preference to autumn landings?

Firstly, it depends on the climatic conditions of your region. AT northern regions and the middle lane, planting seedlings in spring gives the best results. In autumn, young trees can freeze here. In places with sufficient snow cover, seedlings planted in autumn are protected from freezing by a layer of snow.

Secondly, the optimal planting time can also be determined by the type of seedlings. Some crops tolerate spring planting better, while others, on the contrary, fall.

What trees are best to plant in the spring

Many people wonder what trees are planted in spring? The answer is simple. In the spring, you can plant almost all fruit trees. There are times when spring planting is the only possible variant. Some winter-resistant pears, plums, apple trees are doomed to death if they are planted in the fall. It is also desirable to plant sea buckthorn, cherries and apricots in spring.

When to plant trees in spring

It should start with the fact that you need to prepare for spring from the fall. You can choose a place in advance, dig a pit, enrich the soil with natural fertilizers. Important point- do not miss the time when it is best to plant trees in spring.

Beginning gardeners start planting young shoots with the onset of warm days, while they make a huge mistake. In order for young plants to take root, they should be rooted in a new place as soon as the snow melts, but keep in mind that the ground should not be frozen by this time.

Stop planting plants should be at least a week before the appearance of the kidneys. It is difficult to name specific numbers, as it depends on specific weather conditions.

Benefits of spring tree planting

• By planting a tree in the spring, you will have a harvest a year earlier than when planting in the fall.
• During the winter, you can properly prepare for spring work, draw up a schedule and work plan.
• Some garden work can be carried out in autumn or winter, for example, the preparation of fertilizers, the formation of pits for planting.
• During spring plantings, it is almost immediately clear which of the seedlings have taken up normally and started to grow, and which ones require additional care or transplantation.

What is problematic spring landing

• In spring, the range of planting material on the market is less than in autumn.
• After planting, it will be necessary to water the young seedling more often, protecting it from spring droughts.
• It is necessary to clearly select the time when to plant trees in the spring, to calculate so that the tree has time to take root before the start of sap flow.

Features of spring gardening

Inexperienced amateur gardeners believe that the way to plant a tree is the same at any time. In fact, each season has its own characteristics. Let's learn how to properly plant trees in spring.

Trees sit down before the onset of heat, so Special attention must be drawn to the ground. The soil may not be as soft and pliable as in autumn. To strengthen the adhesion of the roots to the ground, you need to additionally dip them in a clay mash. When landing, use natural fertilizers e.g. manure.

The first time after planting, plants require careful care. Make sure that the soil does not dry out, try to hide young shoots from overly active sunlight.

In the spring, 5-7 days after planting, growth activators can be used - nitrogen fertilizers that promote the appearance of young shoots in the plant.

• In order not to miss the timing of spring planting, all preparatory work should be carried out in autumn.
• When choosing a landing site, consider the level of groundwater. It shouldn't be too high. It is also not recommended to plant trees in places of accumulation of melt water.
• Be sure to pay attention to the fertility of the soil. Apply fertilizer if the soil in the place where you are going to plant a tree is poor.
• Tall seedlings must be planted together with a support. It will protect fragile stems from gusty spring winds.

And most importantly, you need to remember: a tree is creature and requires appropriate treatment. Young seedlings, like small children, need constant attention and care, getting what they need, they will surely please you with a good harvest.

Fruit trees in the same place can grow and bear fruit for ten or more years. I would like to immediately note that planting trees can be carried out both in autumn and in spring, the main thing in this matter is proper planting. After all, the mistakes that you can make at the beginning will be very difficult to correct in the future, not to mention the fact that some of them cannot be corrected at all.

To be able to avoid these errors, you need to:

1) Well prepare the soil;

2) Correctly place the plants on the site;

3) Choose varieties that are more suitable for your area;

4) Comply with all the rules necessary for planting tree seedlings;

5) Provide timely care for seedlings after planting;

For planting fruit trees, a site with a slope of no more than 5-8 °, while protected from the wind, is best suited.

It is not recommended to plant in a closed pit (saucer), regardless of whether you plant them in autumn or spring. This is due to the fact that they stagnate cold air, which is especially dangerous during spring frosts (during the flowering period).

Best fruit plants can grow where they grow tree species(maple, oak, ash).

An important condition when choosing the most suitable site is the level of groundwater. For example, when planting pome species (pears, apples), ground water should be no closer than 2-2.5 m from the surface layer of the soil, and in the case of cherries or plums, this distance should be at least 1.5-2 m.

If the groundwater is above this distance, the development process will be very weak, namely, the one-year growth (in cases where the planting was carried out in the fall) will not have time to mature and will simply freeze out during winter frosts. It is not uncommon for the tops of trees to dry up.

If it is impossible to drain the area for planting, it is recommended to plant tree seedlings on mounds with a height of 40-50 cm and a width of 2-3 m. top layer soil that is well cultivated and fertilized.

For an apple tree, light chernozem, deep soddy and sandy loamy soil is best suited, and for a pear - loose loamy, nutritious soil, for plums - fertilized clayey, provided with moisture, for cherries - light sandy loamy.

Determination of the soil in the garden. Depending on the mechanical composition, soils can be divided into - clayey, silty loams, sandy loams, sandy loams, sandy, etc.

In light soil, as a rule, the amount of nutrients contained is slightly less than in heavy soil.

Soil analysis is carried out in special agrochemical laboratories at the MTS. But in order to determine the mechanical composition of the soil of a summer cottage, you can use this table:

Soils	Sensation when rubbing the soil between the fingers and the action of the knife	magnifying glass view	Rolling cord from wet soil
clayey	Fine homogeneous powder. The grains of coarse sand do not scratch the skin of the fingers. When cut with a penknife, the crunch of sand particles is not heard	No large sand grains	Give a long cord
Silty loams (according to the amount of silt they are divided into light, medium and heavy)	When cut with a knife, they give a flat surface	A small amount of sand	No long cord
Sandy loams (the content of sand can be light, medium and heavy)	When rubbing, a large amount of sand is clearly noticeable. The knife makes a characteristic creaking sound	—	They give a very fragile cord (crumbles)
sandy loam	Sandy particles predominate with a small admixture of clayey		Can't roll cord
Sandy	Composed almost exclusively of sand grains

How to prepare the site when planting trees in the fall?

Usually fruit trees are planted in pits, but in order to improve the growth and development of the plant, before planting, the soil must be completely cultivated (dug) to a depth of 40-60 cm. In cases with podzolic soil, this depth must be reduced.

If planting will be done in the fall, then the pits are best prepared in the spring, and if in the spring - in the autumn.

Digging holes should have a rounded shape with sheer walls.

Planting trees in autumn

When planting trees, both in autumn and spring, the distance between pears and apple trees should be 6x6 m or 5x6 m, and in cases with plum and cherry - 3x4 m.

Landing itself must be taken responsibly. As already mentioned at the beginning, in many respects from proper fit and the success of survival, growth and, most importantly, fruiting will depend.

It is also necessary to remember that the younger the seedling, the easier it will be to plant. Also, young seedlings take root much better.

A lot of gardeners, along with vigorous plants, also plant dwarf varieties.

For those who don't know - dwarf trees These are plants grafted on rootstocks with weak growth.

For example, apple trees that are grafted on low-growing rootstocks receive a code name - dwarf, differing both in strength of growth and in some other characteristics.

Unlike apple trees that were grafted on a vigorous rootstock, in which the period of growth and development lasts from 70-80 years, dwarf apple trees can grow for 20-25 years.

But dwarf species have their advantages. They can bear fruit as early as 3-4 years (some varieties even earlier), compared with vigorous ones, in which fruiting begins at 6-12 years.

Dwarf species are more productive, the fruits are larger and better colored. On the site, they can be placed at a distance of 3x3 m, which means that, compared with vigorous ones, they can be planted twice as many in the same area, and therefore the yield is doubled.

It is necessary to plant and care for dwarf species in the same way as with ordinary trees.

Landing dates . In the middle lane of our country, planting is best done in early spring, that is, until the seedlings begin to bud. But when planting trees in the fall, you can also get very good results.

AT autumn period planting can be done in early October, that is, 3-4 weeks before the onset of frost.

How to prepare seedlings for planting?

Preparing a seedling for planting. The dashes show the places where branches and roots are pruned.

The first thing we will need to do is to carefully examine the roots of the seedling, and in cases where diseased, dried, broken and damaged parts are found, then carefully cut them out with a garden knife.

The ends of healthy roots also need to be trimmed (trimmed) a little.
Remember, the longer and better branched the roots, the better the seedling will take root, and will develop better in the future.

Each branch of the seedling crown is shortened by about 1/3 of the length. When shortening the branches, we will need to cut them into the so-called external (external) kidney. When carrying out this procedure, the side shoots will begin to develop to the sides, and therefore the crown of the tree will not thicken.

Pruning of branches can be done both before planting and after it.

In the center of the board there should be a triangular cutout to a depth of 4 cm. Similar cutouts are still on both ends of the board, at a distance of 75 cm from the middle one.

landing board

Fruit tree planting scheme

Planting a fruit tree: 1 - a landing board with an average cut is applied to a stake and a short peg is installed to each of the extreme cuts; 2 - take away the landing board, leaving the pegs in place, and draw a circle around the stake, which determines the size of the width of the pit; 3 - dig a hole to the desired depth, folding the upper and lower layers of soil separately along the sides of the hole; 4 - the landing board is applied to the peg with end cutouts and a pointed stake is driven into the bottom of the pit at the middle cutout; 5 - the pit is covered with the top layer of soil thrown out when digging the pit, forming a mound around the stake, which is tightly trampled down with a foot; 6 - lower the seedling into the pit, spreading its roots evenly over the surface of the mound, the roots fall asleep nutrient soil, which is gradually compacted, filling the voids formed around the roots (the root collar of the seedling should be 5-7 cm above the soil surface); 7 - after filling the pit, the seedling is slightly tied to the stake, and after the soil settles in the pit, a tighter tie is made for the second time. The height of the stake should not be higher than the first lower branch of the seedling; 8 - arrange a hole (bowl), water each tree, and when water is absorbed into the soil, the surface of the hole is mulched (shaded) with a layer of manure, humus, peat, etc.

How to protect the garden from the wind?

A necessary condition for the successful growth, development and productivity of trees is also protection from the winds. Protective plantings must be planted at the same time as planting fruit plants, and even better if you do this 2-3 years before planting.

It is necessary to arrange horticultural plantings approximately according to the scheme, as indicated in the figure below. In addition to planting garden protection plantings, we will also need to fence our site.

Approximate schemes for the installation of garden fences

In cases with collective garden plots in some areas, garden protection plantings may not be needed. In such a situation, your garden array can be protected from the wind by plants planted along the road, alley, or along the border of the land.

It is also necessary to remember that the species of horticultural plants used must be resistant to climatic conditions your region, long-lived, fast-growing and with a fairly dense (not sprawling) crown.

Excessive root shoots should not come from them, and it is very important to have diseases and pests in common with fruit trees

How to care for a young garden?

A young garden needs constant and thorough care. In cases with backyard and collective garden plots, some vegetables (potatoes, strawberries, etc.) are also grown between rows, and some gardeners even grow currants and gooseberries. But in no case should raspberries, tobacco, sunflowers, corn be sown or planted between rows.

These plants on fruit trees can have negative effects.

In a plot with apple trees, aisles can be used for 10-15 years, and with cherries or plums - 7-8 years.

But at the same time, one should also not forget that inter-row crops should not occupy near-trunk circles.

The width of the near-stem circle depends on the age of the plant itself. In the first 2 years after planting, the width of the trunk circles should be about 2 meters, and every 2 years the width of the circles increases by 0.5 m.

It must also be remembered that the near-trunk circles during the entire period of growth and development of the plant must be in a loose state, and also cleared of weeds.

You will need to loosen the soil 3-4 times.

The last loosening can be done in early August.

After each irrigation or past rain, the soil in without fail loosened to a depth of about 5 cm.

For mulching the near-stem circle, you can use peat or humus (thin layer).

In autumn, trunk circles need to be dug up (to a depth of 10-15 cm), but at the same time, you will need to try not to damage the roots, which is especially important near the trunk.

In the early spring period, we re-dig the trunk circles, but this time to a slightly shallower depth.

In areas where fruit trees are not sufficiently moistened, they will need good watering in the first years after planting.

During the entire spring period and in the first half of summer, trees need watering in the amount of 3-4 times. In dry areas, the amount of watering is doubled.

For one young tree, one watering will require from 2 to 4 buckets of water (depending on the amount of precipitation). As the age of the tree increases, so does the rate of watering.

How to take care of a fertile garden?

soil care . The soil in the trunk circle of a fruit tree, as well as in ordinary strips, in the early spring and autumn (after leaf fall), must be dug up using a shovel or garden pitchfork for this purpose.

But at the same time, you also need to try not to damage or expose root system. In early spring, before digging, it is necessary to apply mineral and organic fertilizers.

Watering . The first watering is done in the spring, that is, before the buds on the trees have blossomed. The second 12-15 days after the end of the flowering period. The third - 15-20 days before the harvest period. With a little rainy period, watering is also necessary in the fall.

There are several ways to water trees: watering into circular grooves (grooves) made around the circumference of the near-stem circle, or into holes that can be punched with a crowbar.

After the water has been absorbed and the soil has dried out somewhat, we loosen it and use manure, humus, and peat to shade it.

How to thin out tree crowns? As the crown grows, the tree becomes denser. In this regard (in a thickened crown), branches and leaves solar lighting are obtained in insufficient quantities, the consequences of which may be poor maturation and insufficient coloring of the fruit.

Diseases and pests in a dense crown can cause sensitive damage. Therefore, we will need to remove unnecessary branches.

Crowns are thinned out in autumn (after leaf fall) or early spring (before the start of the sap flow period).

Thinning is carried out as follows: at the beginning we need to cut out all the shrunken, diseased or frost damaged branches.

Then we proceed to the removal of old branches that have ceased to bear fruit. Next, cut off the broken branches (below the break point, to a healthy place).

In cases where there are two branches that interfere with each other's development, then the less valuable of them is removed or shortened.

It is also necessary to cut out branches that grow inside the crown, as well as thicken it.

Cut branches we will need to remove from garden plot and burn.

A sharp garden saw can serve as a tool for pruning trees: we smooth the edges of the wounded area with a garden knife and coat with putty, but you can also paint over them with paint (ocher on natural drying oil).

Summer residents usually blame a bad seedling, climate, or problem area for the death of a planted tree. And even thoughts do not allow that failure can be associated with the mistakes that they themselves make when landing. Which of them are the most common?

AUTUMN LANDING

PROS:

Large selection of planting material - in terms of quality, varieties and prices

Sufficient period for planting (from late September to mid-October)

Minimum care for seedlings after planting

MINUSES:

Hard frost can kill trees

Strong winds and sleet can break fragile plants

Seedlings are often damaged by rodents

Dubious place to buy a seedling

So many articles have been written on this topic, but summer residents continue to step on the same rake. Do not buy seedlings on the road! Even if they are half the price there. There is a great risk that at best they will sell you a plant of a different variety or breed than you ask for, at worst - an unregional variety or a diseased plant, which can also become a breeding ground for diseases and pests in the garden.

In autumn, it is important to finish planting seedlings no later than 20 days before the soil freezes.

Don't be too lazy to visit a reputable nursery in your area, which will offer a wide range of seedlings, perhaps even dug in front of you, and give expert advice on planting and caring for the plant.

For planting, it is better to choose annual seedlings - they take root well. Biennial plants are also suitable.

UNSUITABLE PLANT DATE

Alas, not all plants are suitable for autumn planting. First of all, this applies to cherries, cherries, peaches. Their seedlings often do not have time to take root before winter (especially in the northern regions) and die due to an immature root system. But it is better to buy these plants in the fall, and leave them in a prikope for the winter.

Apple and pear trees are traditionally planted in autumn, as well as berry bushes. In any case, planting in the middle lane must be done before mid-October, in the northern regions - before the first decade of October, and in the southern regions they are often planted until mid-November.

IMPROPERLY PREPARED PIT

Landing pits should be prepared no later than 2 weeks before planting. But if you did not plan new plantings, and then unexpectedly bought or received a gift good seedling, the hole can be dug 2-3 days before planting. And temporarily dig the plant in the shaded part of the site: make a groove so that the roots fit in it, lay the seedling at an angle, sprinkle the roots with soil and pour a bucket of water.

TIP: After planting, cut the seedling, but preferably next spring (in March). At annual plant to encourage crown formation, cut off the top, leaving 5-6 developed buds off the ground. A two-year-old seedling should have a bole 40-50 cm high, 4-5 main branches diverging at least 40 degrees from the trunk, and a conductor.

Dig a planting hole, focusing on the size of the roots of the seedling - they should fit freely there. When digging the top fertile layer set aside in one direction, and the lower barren - in the other. Pour a shovel of broken bricks at the bottom, top with a mixture of fertile soil, humus and river sand (in approximately equal parts), adding 15 g of nitroammophoska. Pour out 10 liters of water. After a couple of days, install a seedling on a mound. Make sure that the roots lie freely, without bends and in no case are directed upwards.

DEEPING THE ROOT NECK

In a newly planted seedling, the root neck should be at a height of 2.5-3.5 cm from the soil surface. After watering, the earth will settle, and the root neck will be at the level of the soil. If you deepen the root neck, the tree will later bear fruit.

OUR REFERENCE

Root neck - the place where the roots go into the trunk. Novice gardeners sometimes confuse the root collar and the grafting site (located 5-7 cm above the root collar). And as a result, they plant a tree incorrectly, deepening it to the place of vaccination.

NON-COMPLIANCE WITH LANDING PATTERNS

The desire of summer residents to plant on small area how can more plants quite natural. But the growing trees over time obscure each other and compete for food in the soil. Next in the table we give landing schemes.

OVERWATERING

After planting, seedlings are often flooded with water. In autumn, one watering (Yul) after planting is enough, and then rains will provide the necessary soil moisture and comfort for the seedlings. If there is a drought and high air temperature, you can water a bucket of water every three days.