In these recipes, only natural products are used, so to speak, folk ...
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Russian name: Fatsia (room Aralia)
Latin name: Fatsia Decne. et Planch.
Family: Araliaceae - Araliaceae
Homeland: Japan
Ease of Growing: For the Beginner
Lighting: Bright light
Air humidity: High
The genus has a modified Japanese name for this plant. Two species common in Japan and on about. Taiwan.
Woody plant with large, up to 35 cm in diameter, green, shiny, dissected, pointed, horizontally standing leaves on long petioles. The lower leaves can be whole or with 2-3 lobes. Fatsia flowers are greenish-yellow in an umbellate inflorescence.
Prefers coolness Fresh air and bright light, but overall very hardy and adaptable to all conditions. It makes sense to purchase a small plant - it will quickly grow and in two or three years it will reach 1.4 m or more. It develops well only with a free arrangement of plants.
F. Japanese - F. japonica Deche. et Planch.
Evergreen small tree up to 4 m tall with a usually unbranched trunk covered with light brown bark. Leaves up to 30 cm in diameter, alternate, petiolate, collected at the tops of the shoots, rounded in outline, cordate at the base, palmate, lobes broadly lanceolate, serrate along the edge. Petioles swollen at the base, with brownish deciduous pubescence. The flowers are small, white or yellowish-green, collected in an apical umbellate inflorescence. Berry-like fruits are dark blue. Homeland - Japan; grows in wet subtropical forests... Known garden forms: "Variegata" - with leaves colored at the ends of the lobes in white or cream color; "Aureimarginalis" with a yellow border around the edge of the leaf.
Location
bright and airy (needs a well-ventilated area), slightly shaded, not in direct sunbeams... In winter - light at a temperature of 6-10 degrees For variegated varieties, the temperature should be about 16 degrees.
Lighting
Bright light
Watering
When growing fatsia, you need to be careful with watering. A single overdrying of the earthen coma leads to the leaves dropping down. You can straighten the leaves only with a garter on the spacers to a horizontal position. It should be watered abundantly from spring to autumn, moderately in winter. However, from waterlogging of the soil, the leaves become soft and lethargic, turn yellow and fall off. At insufficient watering the tips of the leaves dry out.
Air humidity
High
Humidity: additional information
Requires frequent spraying of the leaves. From too dry air, the leaves can wrinkle, become brittle, turn yellow and fall off.
Care
Trim the ends of the shoots every spring to increase branching and wash the leaves from time to time. good care the stem of the fatsia is covered with leaves almost entirely to the base, and lateral shoots may appear near the root collar, which can be used for cuttings. Cuttings root easily on all substrates. Old fatsia plants can be rejuvenated using the technique of air layering. The trunk of the plant is carefully, slightly annularly cut in the upper part, tied with wet moss soaked in nutrient solution and growth hormones, for example, heteroauxin. Moss is constantly moisturized. Two months after the healing of the wound and the formation of roots at the site of the incision, the retracted apex is cut off below the site of root formation and planted. The stump remaining after cutting the trunk of an old plant will in turn give 2-3 young shoots. Sometimes, after removing the air layer, the trunk is not cut off, but grafted onto it in a split or behind the bark 2 - 3 cuttings of indoor ivy The grafted cuttings will take root and will grow, falling down, beautifully framing the trunk of the fatsia, giving the plant a weeping shape.
Reproduction
in the spring apical cuttings from air layers or seeds. Stem cuttings in summer.
Transfer
Fatsia is transplanted annually in spring. Soil: turf and leafy soil with sand (2: 1: 0.5).
Possible difficulties
Pests: spider mites, mealybug, aphid, scale insect.
Difficulties:
The leaves turn yellow and fall off. There can be two reasons. If the leaves are soft and lethargic, waterlogging is to blame. If the leaves are brittle, the air is too dry.
Shriveled leaves. The reason is too dry air or sunburn... Don't forget to shade the fatsia in the summer.
Pale mottled leaves. The tips of the leaves are brown and brittle. The reason is insufficient watering. Big plant need to be watered more often.
Fatsia is a plant that has long been loved by flower growers. It gained particular popularity at the beginning of the twentieth century due to the fact that it grows quickly and multiplies easily. This is the most beautiful evergreen shrub strikes with chic smooth leaves that look like maple leaves. According to the teachings of Feng Shui, Fatsia is able to protect a positive atmosphere in the home.
Origin, species and varieties of fatsia
The homeland of Fatsia (lat. Fatsia) is Japan, although in the wild this evergreen shrub, reaching 6 meters in height, can be found not only in the Land of the Rising Sun, but also along the reservoirs of Taiwan and South Korea... The plant has beautiful, leathery, heart-shaped leaves, which eventually split into 5-9 lobes. It is the leaves that are its main advantage and the reason for its immense popularity. Umbrella inflorescences of white and greenish-yellow color attract with their sophistication, although they do not have a special decorative value. Fatsia naturally grows in shady and humid places.
Fatsia belongs to the monotypic genus of dicotyledonous plants from the Araliaceae family (Fam. Araliaceae). Only one species is grown in indoor conditions- Japanese Fatsia. It also has another name - Siebold's Fatsia. The plant has been cultivated for about three centuries, but it was brought to Europe much later - in the middle of the 19th century.
Japanese fatsia can reach a height of 1.5 meters, it grows rather quickly (it almost doubles in a year) and reproduces well. The following varieties are very popular:
- Spider's Web (white strokes are scattered all over the foliage);
- Variegata (dark green foliage is bordered by light stripes);
- Annelise (golden hue);
- Murakumo Nishiki (pale yellowish in color);
- Tsumugi Shibori (has many white spots).
No less attractive is the Fatshedera Lizei - a plant that appeared as a result of the crossing of Fatsia and common ivy. This hybrid has lobed dark green leaves and a thin long stem (up to 5 m).
It is interesting! Fatsia Japanese can absorb and throw out all the negativity from the house, thereby creating a warm, peaceful and cozy atmosphere.
Sometimes fatsia is called aralia, although fatsia is a houseplant, and aralia is garden perennial... In the wild, there are such types of aralia: Manchu, continental, heart-shaped. The latter (Aralia cordata) is closest in appearance to fatsia. it herbaceous plant with pinnate double leaves on long petioles. In nature, it can be found in clearings, forest edges only on Sakhalin and Kuril Islands... Aralia roots are used with therapeutic purpose- on their basis, medical preparations are made.
Photo gallery: varieties of fatsia
Fatsia variety Spider's Web Fatsia variety Variegata Fatsia variety Mizeri Fatsia variety Tsumugi Shibori Fatsia variety Murakumo Nishiki Fatshedera common Fatshedera variegated
Requirements for the conditions of keeping Fatsia
Fatsia is watered with soft, settled water at room temperature. Since the flower loves high humidity air, it should be sprayed with water (30 ° C) once a day, put under a warm shower and wipe the leaves with a soft material. Such procedures are carried out in the spring and summer. Variegated fatsias are more demanding on lighting and heat... Even during the cold dormant period, they need a temperature of at least 16 ° C.
In winter, the plant is placed in a cooler, but sufficiently illuminated place. For many flower growers it is extremely difficult to find suitable conditions. In this case, of course, highlighting is indispensable. The best option- installation of cold-white fluorescent lamps.
For fatsia, 6-8 hours of artificial lighting a day is enough.
Table: growing conditions for fatsia
Plant transplant
The flower is transplanted in the first two years of life once a year, then every three to four years. After the purchase, the fatsia must also be transplanted in order to replace the plastic pot with an earthen one and change the substrate. A clay pot is selected in diameter 3-4 cm larger than the root system of the flower and 5 cm deeper than the previous pot, always with drain holes.
If there is only one hole, then several more can be drilled so that the earthen lump does not become waterlogged.
The pores in the clay pot will help the moisture evaporate quickly. A deeper capacity is needed so that the roots of the fatsia do not grow into the holes and do not suffer during transplantation.
1/3 the pot is filled with drainage (expanded clay). Suitable potting soil You can cook it yourself by taking turf soil, compost soil, peat and coarse sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1. If necessary, you can cut or break the pot, observing safety measures. The pot is placed in a wet gravel pan to prevent the soil from drying out.
If you find rotten spots on the roots of a flower, immediately remove them with a disinfected knife and treat with crushed charcoal or activated carbon. You should carefully remove the roots that have sprouted into the holes, since the fatsia painfully reacts to their damage - the leaves can lose turgor.
Falling asleep the plant during transplantation, the root collar is left not sprinkled. The soil is slightly compacted. Water the first time abundantly, then within a week as the top layer dries.
Video: Fatsia transplant
Flowering, pruning fatsia
Indoor aralia blooms on rare occasions. Flowering lasts throughout June-August. Flowers - openwork umbrellas are collected in paniculate inflorescences and do not differ decorative view, but they attract with their delicate aroma. In autumn, the plant is covered with small dark blue berries.
Caution: Fatsia berries are poisonous!
Fatsia pruning is usually done once after transplanting to form the crown of young plants. Only young plants are cut in the first 3 years of life. In older specimens, any cropping worsens appearance and makes the plant less showy. It is more demanding in terms of pruning the Fatsheder, which is cut 4–5 times a year. In addition, pinching (pinching the top) is done to determine the shape of the plant. This procedure should be taken with care: touching the leaves of a flower can cause an allergic reaction.
Fatsia in most cases does not need support. It happens when sluggish leaves laid out on spacer sticks so that they become elastic again. The walls of the house can serve as a support for the plant.
Most often, the support is selected for the Fatshedera, since this plant has a long, thin trunk. It is supported by pillars, gratings, arches, showcases.
Table: Correcting Fatsia Care Errors
| What happens to the plant | What to do to correct the situation |
| Young leaves turned yellow |
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| Leaves wither | Adjust watering so that there is no overflow or drying out. |
| Leaves turn pale | Adjust the lighting so that there is no lack or excess of light. |
| Leaves dry |
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| A gray coating appeared on the stems, leaves darkened |
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| Small leaves, no new ones grow |
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| Brittle leaves | Increase air humidity. |
| Shriveled leaves | Avoid direct sunlight on the leaves. |
Fatsia pests and diseases
Table: Insecticides for Fatsia Pest Control
The water for the solution is taken warm (25 ° C).
Attention! When working with insecticides, do not forget to take safety measures: spray in non-residential premises, check the sprayer nozzles well to prevent leaks, wear gloves and safety goggles.
Much worse if the reason poor condition indoor aralia are fungal and viral infections... They often cause the death of the plant.
Table: diseases of fatsia
Reproduction of fatsia
Growing fatsia from seeds is a less costly and time consuming method. Seeds in most cases are purchased purchased, since it blooms and bears fruit only in a greenhouse. If you have purchased seeds, try to sow without delaying for the next year, as they quickly lose their germination. The best time for sowing - spring, when you can do without highlighting the sprouts. Breeding fatsia consists of the following steps:
- The seeds are soaked in water at room temperature for two days. If you have an aquarium compressor, you can put it there to oxygenate the water. In this case, 10–12 hours of soaking is sufficient.
- The substrate is prepared light and loose - peat and perlite in a 1: 1 ratio. If you take sand, sterilize it in a "water bath" or bake it in the oven. In order to prevent decay of seedlings, it is necessary to take a pot with holes. For the same purpose, drainage is laid on the bottom.
- Seeds are evenly spread over the soil by 0.5 cm and sprinkled with a thin layer of sand. The containers are covered with glass or foil so that moisture does not evaporate and are placed in dark place for germination. The seeds grow at a temperature of 13-15 ° C.
- In about a month, seedlings will appear, and the containers with the seedlings are transferred to a warmer 15-18 ° C and lighted place, where direct sunlight does not penetrate.
- Seedlings are picked when the third true leaf appears. The temperature drops to 10-15 ° C. Six months later, when the small plants get stronger, they, together with a lump of earth, are transplanted into pots 8-11 cm high with a nutritious substrate.
There is also a vegetative way of reproduction of an oriental beauty - with apical or stem cuttings and air layers:
- Cuttings are cut into a length of 10-15 cm with a sterile instrument (knife or pruning shears).
- Sections are powdered with sulfur or activated carbon.
- They are planted in wet sand, pre-soaked for 3 hours in a solution of a root formation stimulator (Charkor, Heteroauxin).
- The containers are covered plastic wrap to create a greenhouse effect. The cuttings germinate at a temperature of 25 ° C and diffused light.
- After a month, the cuttings have roots, which are planted in the ready-made soil mixture. Expanded clay is also placed in pots.
Video: breeding fatsia
If the plant takes on an unsightly appearance (the trunk is bare, the leaves dry up and wrinkle), it should be given a second life by propagating it with an air layer. This requires:
- In early spring make a small cut in the barrel.
- A match can be inserted into the cut point so that the cut parts do not close together.
- The incision is dusted with Kornevin, and wet moss is placed on the trunk and wrapped in foil.
- After the formation of roots, the shoot is cut 3 cm below the root system and transplanted into a nutrient soil.
- You can water the lower part and wait for new shoots, or you can experiment and try to graft ivy onto the trunk.
Indoor plant fatsia - evergreen large flower from the Araliev family, historical homeland which is Japan. It has been grown at home for about 200 years. Its height can reach 1.5 meters, the leaves of the fatsia are very large - up to 30 cm in diameter.It feels great in winter garden, in the office, and is often used for interior decoration.
Fatsia has dark green leaves that look like chestnut leaves. But there is also another type of fatsia - its leaves are variegated with a white or yellow rim. The plant is grown in tubs or very large pots. In captivity, Fatsia blooms very rarely, but if it delights you with inflorescences, enjoy their delicate aroma.
Fatsia is a cure for stress, he fights this scourge, just being in your house. Plus, in medicine, fatsia is used as a tonic and general tonic.
How to care for fatsia?
The flower does not like direct rays of the sun, in the summer you can take it out into the air, but it must be protected from the scorching rays. Perfectly tolerates shade, partial shade and feels good under artificial lighting. Fatsia like well-ventilated rooms, in winter time the temperature should not fall below 10 degrees, and not rise above 15. In the summer it is necessary frequent spraying and moistening the pallet, the earth should not dry out. In the spring-summer period, the plant needs feeding, alternating every two to three weeks - mineral and organic fertilizers... Fatsia is important in watering golden mean and with moisture, the main thing is not to overdo it.
How to transplant fatsia?
The plant has a powerful root system, so it needs to be transplanted once every 2-3 years. Do this better in spring, and the next pot should be larger than the previous one. The earth needs to be mixed: 0.5 sand; 1 part of peat, garden land and turf; 2 parts of leaf humus; well, plus there must be good drainage. This flower loves loose soil, when you transplant, do not tamp the soil - it is better to fill it up later.
Reproduction of fatsia
We lower the cuttings in peat with sand and cover with a jar, in the morning and in the evening you need to remove it to ventilate the plant. After the cuttings take root, they need to be planted in the prepared ground. Plants propagated in this way are short, with a dense crown. If you want to form a plant into a bush or ampelous plant, then you need to start the formation from a cutting.
Now we will show you how to grow fatsia from seeds. In early spring, the seeds are soaked for a day or two in warm water, you can add a stimulant there. After that, we sow the seeds in peat with sand (after having previously disinfected the soil), and sprinkle with a thin layer of sand. Moisturize, cover with glass or film, just do not pour too much water. When the shoots grow up, they are transplanted into pots.
Fatsia diseases
If your plant is overheated or lacks light, the lower leaves may fall off. Root rot (necrotic spots on the leaves) appears after waterlogging the earth, a sick flower must be sprayed and watered with foundation. If the leaves of the Fatsia turn yellow and fall off, this is either a very moist soil. Why can the leaves of Fatsia dry out - insufficient watering, dry air. If the temperature rises above 22 degrees and the air is dry, the flower begins to lose leaves. Take care and keep an eye on the Fatsia, she will decorate your interior with her green crown in gratitude.
How to properly care for fatsia?- O proper care for your favorite, you can find out on our website,
What's with the fatcia? Her lower leaves began to fall, apparent reasons there is no ill health. Maybe it's a pest after all? - In the fall lower leaves there is nothing dangerous, this is the normal development of plants. There is nothing you can do about it. It is not a disease or a pest.
How does Fatsia breed?- It can be propagated in spring by apical cuttings from air layers or by seeds, and in summer by stem cuttings.
How to form Japanese fatsia from a bush into a tree (with a thick long trunk)?- Japanese Fatsia is a fast-growing tree, reaching a height of 1.5 m in indoor conditions. The trunk is relatively thin, has lateral shoots, in good conditions completely leafy, and if for some reason it is exposed, the fatsia is rejuvenated. It is impossible to shape the Fatsia the way you want.
Why do fatsia leaves become soft and then fall off? - Most likely you have waterlogged the soil. To prevent the plant from dying, adjust the watering.
How to pour fatsia into a pallet or from above?- You can find information about watering on our website by going
What is the reason for the change in the color of the leaves, do they turn pale and curl?- Leaves turn pale from lack or excess of light, nutrition (especially nitrogen, iron, trace elements), irregular watering, as well as from pests and diseases.
Why did the leaves of Fatsia begin to lose elasticity after transplanting?- Poor health in plants after transplantation is a natural phenomenon. Damaged roots are unable to support the plant the required amount water, so the leaves begin to fade. After transplantation, the plants get sick for 1.5-2 months. After transplanting, the soil can neither be waterlogged nor overdried. The soil should dry out to the bottom of the pot in a week. Leaves should be sprayed with plain water at room temperature 5-6 times a day, and once a week sprayed with a fertilizer solution and sprayed with Epin's solution (2-3 drops per glass of water). The first root dressing can be done 3 weeks after transplanting. Fatsia care is described.
Why do the tips of the leaves of Fatsia dry?- With insufficient watering, the tips of the leaves dry out.
As for fatsia, it does not grow, the leaves turn yellow, and forms on the underside of the leaf white bloom? - Most likely, some kind of pest has wound up on your Fatsia, sucking out cell juice. And against this kind of pests, drugs of systemic action, poisoning the cell sap of the plant, are very helpful. Use Aktara - add it to irrigation water 1-2 times a month.
Where is the best place to place the Fatsia?- You can find out about the location of Fatsia
Living in the bosom of nature is a pipe dream of many townspeople. Indoor plants will help to get closer to its implementation; they create an aura of natural freshness. Moreover, a green corner in an apartment can be a semblance of not only the tropics, but also our Central Russian forests. For example, fatsia (or Japanese aralia) will remind you of a chestnut or maple grove. Its large patterned leaves are very similar to the greenery of their favorite trees. To make them green for a long time, you need to know the basics of caring for fatsia at home.
Fatsia origin, appearance and care features
Fatsia is a native of the Asian southeast. This plant, which in nature reaches 5 meters in height, is common in Japan, Korea, the island of Taiwan and New Zealand. In its natural environment, Fatsia is accustomed to warm and humid summers, cool, but frost-free, dry winters. She tolerates significant daily changes well.
The plant is used for landscape gardening in regions with a subtropical climate. In Russia, Fatsia in open ground grown on Black sea coast Caucasus and Crimea.
In Japan, fatsia is traditionally planted near houses on the north side. There is a belief that the plant protects the inhabitants of the dwelling from the evil spirits of the north.
How Aralia became Fatsia: the difficulties of classification
Until the middle of the 19th century, no one knew the plant with the name "Fatsia". The evergreen tree, brought to Europe from Japan, won the sympathy of flower growers under the name Japanese Aralia. The plumose, large, glossy leaves and the relatively undemanding nature of the new plant were liked by many.
Japanese aralia began to be grown at home, using mainly for landscaping shaded areas. However, the botanists who studied the representatives of the large plant family Aralievs, in 1854 decided to single out a separate genus with the name Fatsia. It included only three types. Fatsia differ from other Araliaceae in the special structure of the leaf and inflorescence, and most importantly, in that they are evergreen, and not deciduous plants.
A new genus of Araliaceae was identified by the French botanists Joseph Decken and Jules Planchon. They formed the name of the plant from the old Japanese word "fatsi", which means the number 8. Thus, scientists noted the number of leaf blades. However, their number may vary. The young leaf is not divided into shares at all.
Japanese aralia at home
V indoor floriculture Fatsia has been grown for over 200 years. However, the plant, popular in the 19th century, has now given way to more exotic tropical flowers. Although Fatsia has many advantages. Unlike the Tropicans, she is able to put up with a lack of light, she does not need high humidity. all year round, it grows quickly, and the lush foliage is very spectacular and is not inferior in beauty to other plants.
It is generally accepted that Fatsia is easy to clean. This plant “is generally very hardy and adapts to any conditions,” writes florist guru Dr. Hession. He advises giving the flower fresh air, coolness and diffused light, then there will be no problems. However, he notes that there are some difficulties in growing fatsia. According to Russian amateur flower growers, this plant is not as simple as it seems at first glance. It is especially difficult to adapt to watering, Fatsia almost equally does not accept either drought or overflow. But fans of chestnut greens find an approach to the oriental plant and have already learned how to overcome difficulties. The most important thing, they admit, is regular and attentive care.
Russians often call Fatsia home, or Japanese chestnut. Its crown, in fact, resembles a chestnut one, only it grows much faster and retains its greenery all year round.
In home keeping, fatsia rarely grows above 2 meters. Over the years, the straight stem is covered with bark. If the plant is not helped, it branches weakly. Fatsia has a fluffy crown, consisting of large leaves (up to 35 cm) original form... They are located on long petioles. At first, the rounded sheet is solid, over time it is divided into blade parts with a pointed end, there can be from 5 to 9. The texture of the sheet plate is dense, glossy. The base form has a deep green color, there is variegated varieties with contrasting spots and edge. Openwork foliage is the main decoration of fatsia.
Flowers at home are rare and not very decorative. They are white or greenish, collected in umbrella inflorescences. When pollinated, blue-black berries are tied, but the seeds of fatsia do not always ripen completely.
Fatsia juice is slightly toxic. It can cause an allergic reaction in people with sensitive skin. Therefore, when transplanting and forming a plant, you should wear gloves, and then wash your hands thoroughly.
Japanese Fatsia, its hybrids and varieties
In indoor floriculture, only one type of fatsia is cultivated - Japanese aralia, as well as its hybrid with ivy and various varieties.
- Fatsia (Japanese aralia or Siebolda) is a basic plant for other forms. In room conditions, it grows up to 1.4 meters. A fast growing shrub with large, chestnut-like, monochromatic and shiny leaves. The plant is more hardy than variegated varieties.
- Moseri is a compact fatsia, no more than half a meter tall. The petioles are shorter, due to this, a bush with a dense crown is formed. Leaves are dark green, glossy, characteristic shape.
- Fatsia of the Spider's Web variety has large leaves of an unusual bluish-green color. They are decorated with silvery white spots along the veins.
- Fatsia Tsumugi Shibori is similar to Spider's Web. But in this variety, the spots are larger and there are more of them, so White color prevails over green.
- Fatsia Variegata is a plant with green foliage, trimmed along the edges with an uneven cream or white stripe.
- Fatsia Annelise is a vibrant variety. Leaves with white veins, covered with golden yellowish and light green stains.
- Murakumo Nishiki is a fatsia with leaves that seem to be ready for autumn, a pattern of light yellow with a lemon tint on the greenery.
- Aureimarginatis is a Fatsia variety with green leaf blades framed by a gold-colored border.
- Argenteimarginatis is a variegated indoor chestnut variety. They are green in the center and decorated with a silvery-white stripe along the edge.
Varieties of indoor flower in the photo
About care errors (table): why leaves wither or turn yellow, do not bloom and other problems
| Manifestation | Cause | Solution |
| The leaves became soft and drooped. |
|
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| The leaves dry out from the tips and further, break. | Air is too dry. | Spray the plant more often. Get him a shower. Place an open container of water, a humidifier, or a fountain next to it. |
| Leaves wrinkle. | Low air humidity or excess sun. | Take measures to humidify the air. Get the fatsia out of the sun. |
| Yellowing of the leaves, over time they fall off. | Waterlogging of the soil. | Adjust the watering mode. If the condition is critical, change the soil, check the condition of the roots. Find rot - heal. |
| The plant has slowed down or stopped growing. | Cramped pot, poor soil. | If the roots have grown into the drainage holes, it's time to change the pot. |
| The variegated leaves turn uniformly green. |
|
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| The leaves become smaller, the distances between the nodes become larger. |
Video: about some care mistakes
Diseases, pests, preventive measures and methods of treatment (table)
| How is it expressed? | Who or what is harming? | Treatment and methods of struggle | Preventive measures |
| Leaves with yellowish spots and dots, sometimes there is a white spider web. The foliage is dying off. | Spider mite infestation. | Spray with insecticide, phyto-farms, derris are suitable. | Inspect the plant regularly to detect the presence of pests and take action in a timely manner. Moisten the fatsia leaves often. Maintain high air humidity, ventilate the room, and harmful insects breed in dry and stuffy rooms. |
| The leaves wither, green larvae are clearly visible from below, and whitish tiny butterflies fly around. | The whitefly has settled on the flower. |
|
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| The leaves turn pale, curl, the stems are deformed. Tiny insects are visible. | Aphid attacked. |
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| Brown, hard spots on the underside of the leaves along the veins. The leaves brighten and die. | Exposure to scale insects. | Remove the pest by hand, adult pests are not afraid of chemicals. Then treat the plant with an insecticide solution. Carry out the treatment until you completely destroy the pest. | |
| On the leaves and stems, often at the bottom, dark rotting spots appear. | Gray rot. | When the rot has just affected the plant, you can try to cure it.
| Waterlogged soil - main reason fungal diseases. And stale air helps their development. To avoid contamination, adjust watering and ventilate the area more often. Quarantine new plants. |
| The plant loses its tone, withers, but the soil is moist. | Root rot. |
|
Reproduction
You can get new fatsias vegetatively and by seeds. There are two vegetative ways: apical cuttings and layering.
Cuttings
Cuttings of fatsia are carried out before spring awakening, it can be combined with pruning, or in summer.
Layers
This method is suitable if the plant is too elongated, and its trunk is bare.
- In the spring, make a circular cut in the trunk.
- Wrap the place with wet moss, you can soak it with a stimulant, and cover it with plastic wrap or put on a glass on top.
- Keep the moss moist.
- After 4–6 weeks, roots form at the incision site.
- Let them grow stronger, after a month and a half, cut the trunk just below the new roots.
- Place the plant in a suitable pot.
- Cut off the remaining trunk and cover with damp moss.
- Water it so the side shoots begin to grow.
Seeds
Fatsia seeds can be obtained at home with some effort. But most often they give low germination, because they do not fully ripen. You can purchase seed at the store. Just keep in mind the seeds of fatsia short term suitability. And it is difficult to grow this plant from seedlings.
- Start the sowing campaign in March. Prepare a potting medium with equal parts of leafy earth and sand.
- Check the quality of the seeds before planting. Throw them into the water. Those that surfaced are not suitable for sowing. Plant only those that have sunk to the bottom.
- Embed the seeds 0.5 cm deep into a damp substrate.
- Cover the greenhouse, put it in a warm (+25) place.
- When 2-3 young leaves appear, plant the seedlings in pots (5-7 cm in diameter).
- Over the summer, transfer them two to three times into larger pots and nutrient soil.
