Bordeaux mixture: instructions for use in horticulture, preparation and composition. The relevance of using Bordeaux mixture Bordeaux mixture August 100 instructions for use

Bordeaux mixture is a composition of two dry components: copper sulfate and calcium oxide, from which Bordeaux liquid is prepared - an aqueous solution for the treatment of garden plants and garden crops from diseases of bacterial and fungal origin.

The chemical formula of the Bordeaux mixture: СuSO4.3Ca(OH)2

The mechanism of action is contact.

Copper sulfate (aka blue vitriol, aka basic copper sulfate) acts as a poison - it is toxic to fungi and bacteria due to copper ions - they interact with amino groups and sulfhydryl groups of fungal cell enzymes, causing destruction of the structure of cellular proteins.

Calcium oxide (or quicklime) is quenched during the preparation process and is used in the mixture as a neutralizer of the strongest oxidizing agent so that the solution does not cause burns in plants.

Benefits of Bordeaux liquid

1. A solution of Bordeaux liquid quickly comes into contact with the leaves and bark of trees and shrubs, and is not washed off by rain.
2. Spraying can be carried out very early in spring or late in autumn before bud break (first time in February and March with the first thaws).
3. This pesticide has the longest protective effect - up to 30 days.
4. Copper preparations are highly effective against a very wide range of pathogens, pathogens:

• anthracnose
• bacteriosis
• ascochitosis
• coccomycosis
• rubella plums
• root rot
• clasterosporiasis (perforated spotting)
• leaf curl
• macrosporiosis
• melanosis
• mildew
• monilial burn fruit
• olive blotch
• scab
• percosporellosis
• fruit rot
• spotting
• rust
• septoria
• snow mold
• phyllosticosis
• late blight
• cercosporosis
• black rot

Disadvantages of Bordeaux mixture

Bordeaux liquid is incompatible with organophosphate pesticides and any preparations that break down in an alkaline environment.

Bordeaux mixture is a contact pesticide, therefore, the more carefully the surface of the vegetation is treated, the higher the efficiency.

A certain phytotoxicity is manifested from regular annual spraying of the garden and vegetable garden, especially during periods with prolonged rainfall. Copper is most phytotoxic during the period of active plant growth.

Copper accumulates in the soil over the years and adversely affects fruit trees and shrubs, causing leaves and ovaries to fall off at the beginning of the season.

Copper and its compounds can enter nearby water bodies with groundwater and adversely affect their ecosystem.

Copper preparations are poisonous to humans, serious safety measures are required in work and moderation in use. Especially dangerous is the inhalation of dust-like particles of copper compounds, so work with the Bordeaux mixture should be carried out exclusively in a respirator and in dry calm weather!

Bordeaux mixture - how to cook

What is important to know:

1. First, two aqueous solutions are prepared in different containers, i.e. need two containers
2. Bordeaux liquid can be diluted only in enameled (without chips), glass, wooden, plastic dishes; it is unacceptable to use aluminum, iron, galvanized utensils
3. dissolve copper powder in hot water, then cool, adding cold, lime - immediately in cold
4. mix only cold solutions
5. checking lime for quality
6. the effectiveness of the prepared mixture depends on the ratio of the components

What you need to prepare Bordeaux mixture

• two buckets: one for 5 liters, the second for 10 liters
• a piece of gauze for filtering and a sieve
• wooden stick for stirring
• iron nail
• kitchen scale accurate to +/- 1 g (if all components are purchased separately, not in a set)

We prepare a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture

The industry offers us ready-made - weighed and packaged mixtures. The package contains two plastic bags - one with copper sulfate CuSO 4, the second - quicklime CaO.

To prepare a 3% concentration of Bordeaux liquid in a volume of 10 liters, you need to take: 300 g of copper sulfate and 400 g of quicklime (CaO).

1. Pour 1 liter of hot water into a 5 liter bucket and pour blue vitriol, mix well with a stick, then add very cold water to a solution volume of 5 liters.
2. Extinguish lime: pour 2 liters of cold water into a 10-liter bucket and add quicklime. We mix well - the lime is extinguished: CaO + H 2 O \u003d Ca (OH) 2
3. Add cold water to the volume of milk of lime 5 liters.
4. From the first bucket, pour the dissolved copper sulphate in a thin stream into the milk of lime.
5. We get 10 liters of a 3% solution of bright blue color, without flakes!
6. We check the reaction of the solution: we lower the iron nail and look - no copper plaque should appear on it.
7. We filter the solution through a fine sieve or cheesecloth, folded in 3-4 layers.
8. Pour the solution into the sprayer, work.

Bordeaux liquid without errors

The quality of lime actually determines the safety of your fruit and berry crops, vegetables and flowers.

The correct quicklime (fluff) when extinguished with water will dissolve rapidly with the release of heat (therefore, you need to dilute lime only with cold water). If the dissolution process is weak and a lot of sediment is formed with limestone flakes, the lime is of poor quality (weakly burned or stored for a long time). In this case, you need to take more lime, but it's better to just take a fresher and better one. The fact that it is necessary to add lime is indicated by the formation of a red coating on the nail - separately prepare a solution of milk of lime and add to the total volume of Bordeaux mixture until repeated tests with the nail show that it remains clean, without red coating.

If the solution is not corrected, then Bordeaux liquid has an acidic reaction and can cause leaf burns.

When adding milk of lime, pour it into the Bordeaux liquid in a thin stream, stirring the solution evenly with a wooden stick. Initially, we pour a solution of copper into lime, and not vice versa!

If you buy a ready-made Bordeaux mixture, then in the set, in addition to copper powder and lime, there is litmus test. It is more correct to determine by indicator paper, because if you apply too much lime, the nail will not become copper coated, but the solution will reduce the fungicidal properties.

I note right away that Bordeaux mixture is the only correct name for this drug, and the term "Bordeaux mixture" is not entirely correct. In addition, it is correct to write "Bordeaux" with one letter "s", although the variant with two letters is much more popular. Below in the text, I will use both names for purely literary reasons, and write with two "s" because people are so used to it.

What it is?

Bordeaux liquid is a contact copper-containing fungicide. It means that:

• the drug is intended only for the fight against fungal diseases;
• the drug does not penetrate into plant tissues;
• the active substance is copper - more precisely, its ions.

The composition of the Bordeaux mixture

Bordeaux liquid contains three components:

• (aka copper sulfate);
• lime;
• water with which these components are mixed.

For the preparation of Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate and quicklime are taken in equal proportions. Lime in this mixture is needed so that the reaction of the solution medium is neutral, because an acidic solution of copper sulfate can burn green leaves. Copper sulphate without lime is used only for gardening in early spring, before bud break.

Properly prepared Bordeaux mixture contains 1% copper sulfate and 1% lime. Now let's talk about how to properly prepare this drug.

How to make Bordeaux mixture (liquid)

The method for preparing 10 liters of Bordeaux liquid is described below - this is enough for about 50 ... 10 m2 of a garden or 150 m2 of potatoes.

1. Mix 100 grams of quicklime with a little water to "quench" the lime.
2. Mix the resulting mixture with 5 liters of pure water. Lime milk should be prepared in a container with a volume of at least 10 liters, because the preparation of the Bordeaux mixture will be carried out in it.
3. Pour 100 grams of copper sulfate with 5 liters of hot water (salts dissolve better in hot water) and mix thoroughly. It should be mixed in plastic or glassware, but in no case in iron, because the dissolved copper sulphate will enter into a substitution reaction with iron. As a result of this reaction, all the copper will settle on the walls of the vessel, and you will get a rather useless 1% solution of ferrous sulfate.
4. Pour copper sulfate into a container with milk of lime, stirring constantly.
5. Check the reaction of the solution with litmus paper. It should be neutral or slightly alkaline. If there is no litmus, you can use an iron object - for example, a nail (not rusty and without grease, it is better to clean it with emery in advance). If brown copper deposits appear on the cleaned surface, more milk of lime must be added to neutralize the solution.

The shelf life of Bordeaux liquid is only 5-6 hours, and even with such a short storage it should be mixed again before use.

Mechanism of action

Proteins have so-called sulfhydryl and amino groups.

A sulfhydryl group is a sulfur atom with a hydrogen atom attached to it. Such a group exists, in particular, in the molecule of the amino acid cysteine. The sulfhydryl group plays a role in maintaining the tertiary structure of the protein - in other words, thanks to this group, the molecule has a certain geometric shape (and can perform a certain function).

The amino group is a nitrogen atom with two hydrogen atoms. It is part of all amniotic acids and largely affects the function of the protein.

The active substance of the Bordeaux mixture is copper ions from copper sulphate. They bind to sulfhybril and amine groups, which leads to disruption of normal functioning and partial destruction of the protein. This, in turn, disrupts the normal functioning of membranes in fungal cells (not only, but for a number of reasons, copper acts especially effectively on fungi and membranes), and they stop developing or completely die.

The use of Bordeaux mixture

• protection of beets from cercosporosis;
• protection of potatoes from late blight and alternariosis;
• protection of tomato (tomato) from phytophthora in open ground;
• protection of onions from peronosporosis;
• protection of watermelon and melon from peronosporosis;
• protection of apricot, peach, cherry, plum and other stone fruits from coccomycosis, leaf curl, moniliosis and clusterosporiasis;
• protection of citrus fruits from malsecco, scab, fruit rot and anthracnose;
• protection of gooseberries and currants from septoria, anthracnose and rust;
• protection of alfalfa from brown spotting;
• protection of apple, pear and quince from moniliosis, scab and spotting;
• protection of grapes from mildew;
• protection of strawberries (strawberries), raspberries, currants and gooseberries from spotting;
• protection of decorative deciduous and coniferous crops from rust and spotting;

Instructions for the use of Bordeaux liquid in gardening in the spring

Bordeaux mixture is used in horticulture to protect against:

• rust;
• spotting;
• moniliosis of pome and stone fruits;
• stone fruit coccomycosis;
• peach leaf curl;
• scab apples;
• some other diseases.

In this article, I will provide only detailed information on the use of the Bordeaux mixture to protect the apple tree in the spring - simply because if you describe everything, the article will turn out to be endless and difficult to read. On the protection of other cultures, I will write separate articles and gradually replace the inscriptions above with links to them.

Protection of apple and pear trees from scab, spots and moniliosis

In this case, use a 1% Bordeaux mixture (it is written about the preparation above). You can spray at any time during the entire growing season. Up to 6 treatments per season are allowed. Liquid consumption - 10-20 liters per 100 m2. Waiting period - 15 days: this means that you can eat apples or pears 15 days after processing.

The effectiveness of such treatments is ambiguous. In research, Bordeaux liquid is usually used as a control, as a well-known and common fungicide. Other fungicides are almost always superior to the liquid in studies - otherwise these studies would not have been published.

Of the latest noteworthy publications on this topic, the article by I.I. Prali "Principles for the selection of plant protection products" should be mentioned, which states that copper-containing preparations provide effective protection against scab for 6 ... 8 days.

Studies conducted in 2004-2007 at the Michurin Agricultural and Industrial Complex showed that the biological efficiency of using 1% Bordeaux liquid on an apple tree ranged from 44 to 64% on leaves and from 45 to 62% on fruits in years when the plants were weakened by adverse weather conditions. conditions. In more favorable years for the apple tree, the efficiency was 7–13% higher. In the same study, it was noted that the treatment of apple trees with Bordeaux liquid contributes to the development of phyllostictosis on plants. (Kashirskaya A.M. “INCREASING THE YIELD OF APPLE TREES ON THE BASIS OF IMPROVING ITS PROTECTION AGAINST PHYLLOSTICTOSE AND SCAB IN THE CCR”, 2008)

At the same time, in specialized magazines there are also reports that BZ effectively protect apple trees from scab for 2-3 weeks. True, these magazines are mostly old - today Bordeaux liquid is used and studied less often.

The use of Bordeaux liquid in the garden has its drawbacks:

• like all other contact preparations, BZ is easily washed off with water;
• some authors note that even a properly prepared liquid can cause burns (N.A. Shibkova, 1965; E.M. Storozhenko, 1970). Processing during the maximum sensitive period can lead to yellowing of the leaves and the appearance of a network on the fruits;
• processing an apple tree with a Bordeaux mixture provokes the development of phyllostictosis;
• repeated treatments with copper-containing preparations increase the copper content in the soil;
• with rare exceptions, Bordeaux liquid must not be mixed with other fungicides or insecticides.

Is it worth it?

As you can see, BZ is not the most effective and safe preparation for protecting apple and pear trees, but I still recommend using it at least three times, starting from the green cone phase. At this time, it is quite effective: in addition, one should not forget about the low price.

1. Fedorova R.N. "Apple Scab" - Leningrad: Kolos, 1977;
2. Kashirskaya A.M. “INCREASING THE YIELD OF APPLE TREES ON THE BASIS OF IMPROVING ITS PROTECTION AGAINST PHYLLOSTICTOSE AND SCAB IN THE CCR”, 2008;
3. "State Catalog of Pesticides and Agrochemicals Permitted for Use on the Territory of the Russian Federation", 2015
4. Kashirskaya A.M. The results of testing various drugs in the fight against brown spot and scab on an apple tree // Natural science and humanism Interuniversity collection of scientific papers. - Tomsk. - 2007
5. I.I. Pralia "Principles for the selection of plant protection products", 2013
6. Storozhenko E.M., Talash A.I. Rational use of fungicides to control apple scab // Dokl. owls. scientists to the XIX int. congress on horticulture, - M., 1974, - S. 261-264.

Bordeaux liquid: what is it?

The name itself confuses beginner gardeners. Meanwhile, Bordeaux liquid is a very popular and effective fungicide, a remedy for fungal diseases. Plants are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid in early spring: pears, apple trees, gooseberries, currants.

Ingredients: slaked lime + blue vitriol + water.

Bordeaux mixture: how to breed (purchased)

1st way. We use the ready-made set "Bordeaux mixture" to prepare the solution. The kit usually includes:

• a bag of 100 g of copper sulfate (copper sulfate),
• a bag with 100 g of slaked lime (hydrated lime).

All components are given in powder form.

The main active ingredient of Bordeaux mixture is copper sulphate. It would seem to dissolve in water and that's it. But no, blue vitriol, even diluted in water, is an aggressive agent, an acid that can burn plants. To neutralize the acid of copper sulfate, slaked lime (alkali) is used. She softens him.

How much water do you need? In horticulture, as a rule, 1% and 3% Bordeaux mixture is used. From one purchased bag of Bordeaux mixture, you can prepare 10 liters of a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. For spring processing, a 3% solution is needed, which means you need 3 such bags per 10 liters (300 g of copper sulfate and 300 g of lime per 10 liters of water).

With a 3% solution, early spring treatment of plants (at the end of March - April) is carried out before bud break. Further spraying is carried out with a 1% liquid.

Instructions: how to breed Bordeaux mixture

The main feature of the preparation of Bordeaux liquid is that both components must first be dissolved SEPARATELY from each other in water, and then combined.

Step by step:

1. Dissolving copper sulfate

• We take 2 ten-liter plastic or enameled buckets (but by no means iron or galvanized). Glass or wooden containers are also suitable.
• Pour copper sulfate (100 g) into a 10-liter plastic bucket,
• Pour first with a small amount of water (literally 500 ml).
• Stir, rotating the bucket in a circular motion, let stand for a bit to dissolve better.
• Top up with 4.5 liters of moderately hot, warm water.

2. Dissolve the lime

• We take lime. When working with lime, wear a protective mask and gloves.
• Pour the fluffy lime from the bag into another 10-liter plastic bucket and fill it with the remaining 5 liters of water.
• Stirring with a wooden stick, wait until the lime is evenly dissolved in water. We got the so-called milk of lime (an aqueous solution of lime).

3. We combine both solutions

• Pour a solution of copper sulphate into lime in a thin stream (not vice versa).
• Allow liquid to cool before drinking.
• Filter or strain so that the sprayer does not clog during processing,
• Pour into a garden sprayer and spray on plants.

Important: the solution must be used on the day of preparation. The next day, the finished Bordeaux liquid will lose its beneficial properties.

There are instructions on the bags of Bordeaux mixture. Since the weight of the active ingredients may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, it is best to strictly follow the instructions for use.

How to make Bordeaux liquid yourself?

2nd way. Separately, we buy copper sulfate and slaked lime (fluff) to prepare the solution.

You can save money and buy ingredients separately. But here it is worth considering that the lime must be slaked - in garden stores it is sold as "fluffy lime."

If lime is taken slaked, then you can act, according to the first instruction using 100 g of copper sulfate and 100 g of slaked lime (fluff) per 10 liters of water (1% solution).

Although the CORRECT proportion for making Bordeaux mixture is:

• 1: 0.75 (100 g of copper sulfate and 75 g of fluffy slaked lime per 10 liters of water, and for a 3% solution: 300 g of copper sulfate and 225 g of fluffy slaked lime per 10 liters of water).

But for some reason, modern manufacturers neglect this rule and give components in a 1: 1 ratio in the kit.

The correct proportion was suggested to us by Stepan Kuzmenko from Odessa (the author of the site "Gardens of Stepan Kuzmenko. Landscape Workshop."), for which many thanks to him. Source of information: DIRECTORY OF THE VINEGARDER.-2nd ed., Revised. and add.-M: Kolos, 1982. S.33.

Quote from source:

• How to check if the concentration is correct. Take an iron object (nail or knife, but not stainless steel) and dip into the liquid. With an excess of copper, red spots will appear on a nail or knife blade. Another popular, but often inaccessible to us, summer residents, method is litmus test.

If you managed to find only unslaked, then the main thing here is to dilute it correctly, in the right proportions. Otherwise, there is a danger that you will burn the leaves.

If the lime is NOT slaked (boiling or ground quicklime), it is taken twice as much, because it contains insoluble impurities. This means that to prepare 10 liters of 1% Bordeaux liquid, you will need 100 g of copper sulfate and 200 quicklime (boilers).

Oh guys about preparation of Bordeaux mixture from quicklime I have big questions. Again, proportions are important here. I could not find a clear answer to this question in the sources. Therefore, it is better to use either ready-made bags of Bordeaux mixture, or work with fluff already slaked with lime. Still, this is chemistry, and you need to work with it, oh, how carefully.

How to make Bordeaux liquid?

And now we offer you to watch the original video, which inspired us to write this article. In the video, you can see more clearly how to make Bordeaux liquid (mixture) yourself at home:

I like:

Discussion: 13 comments left.

So where is the SECOND way to make Bordeaux mixture!? Lost? Or? .. "The writer pees, the reader reads?" This time. And two - this: did the author try not to tell stories about how to quench unslaked lime, but still - to quench it, in order to have at least an idea how it not only boils, but also destroys the plastic container in which it boils with its temperature? THREE - in which country Murzilki did you read that "3% liquid should be treated in mid-March, early spring"? Can you even imagine from TV that the phases of plant development in mid-March in the SOUTH (even one) region and in the NORTH are DIFFERENT!? Just like the calendar in the country, not to mention the geography of reader-users, bioastronomical seasons are not uniform either. Or is it deeply parallel to you at all and in your opinion only your Zadryuchensk exists? Further. What do you mean by early spring? When is that anyway? Do YOU ​​have any idea about the three TIMES of spring and their distinctive characteristics and signs? Or in the Murziks you revere, what time of year, what season is also the same? Finally, listen here! Not murzilochnoe, but the correct "ratio of copper sulphate and lime 1: 0.75" (I give the source: Pelyakh M.A. / Doctor of Agricultural Sciences / HANDBOOK OF THE vine grower. - 2nd ed., Rev. and add. - M: Kolos , 1982. P.33). I tell you this - Stepan from Odessa //www.SOUSKUZMENKO.OD.UA// or in the search engine: Gardens of Stepan Kuzmenko. Landscape workshop.

• Rough, but sensible remark. In no case do I pretend to be a candidate of agricultural sciences, I only share the information that I managed to learn from open sources. For the good of the cause, I will swallow the insult. Stephen, I would be grateful for the clarification:
  
  2. Why are different proportions given in purchased sets with Bordeaux mixture: 100 g of copper sulfate and 100 or 200 g of lime.
  3. Why is hydrated lime (in fact, slaked lime) indicated in the purchased sets of Bordeaux mixture, and “200 g of non-slaked lime” is indicated in the weight designation? (see picture of green packaging).
  It's actually easy to get confused. Everywhere there are different proportions, nowhere is it really said - slaked or quicklime is used. But there is definitely a difference between them.
  Thanks in advance for your help

Rough, but sensible remark.

In my opinion, not rude, but SHARP. Sorry for the harshness! I'm sick of the dilettantism of the "prodigies from Privoz" ("Sema, stop saying! Do you even know that the violin does not come from the word creak, the prodigy from Privoz!"), which necessarily declares the CORRECT departure, landing, etc. wild agricultural practices without any rules. Complete nonsense! Just before reading your publication, I read three such horror films with claims to knowledge.

In no case do I pretend to be a candidate of agricultural sciences, I only share the information that I managed to learn from open sources. For the good of the cause, I will swallow the insult. Stephen, I would be grateful for the clarification:
1. Does the source you mentioned use slaked (calcium hydroxide) or non-slaked (calcium oxide) lime in a ratio of 1:0.75 to copper sulphate?

Calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)2, slaked lime-fluff!

2. Why are different proportions given in purchased sets with Bordeaux mixture: 100 g of copper sulfate and 100 or 200 g of lime.

OBJECTIVELY (for you and me - buyers): A) dishonesty, often as a result of the illiteracy of a sales worker. I specifically leave the term seller, because. There are very few peddlers today. Mostly merchants, and this caste is just stupid! Mixes or replaces concepts at its discretion. Let's say it mixes DIET products and diabetic products on the same shelf; B) sometimes a conscientious seller still indicates the type of lime - slaked or fluff, i.e. (Ca (OH) 2, or just lime, i.e. CaO. (not slaked), but does not give a formula. Hence the problem immediately arises, arising from the main thing: the ratio of WATER and LIME, WATER and VITIMUM based on their PROPERTIES and functions.

The industry provides us with a range of lime in the form of:
- lumpy quicklime or KIPIELKA; - GROUND FAST boiling water, formed as a result of grinding lump lime; - PUFFS. That is, a fine powder of slaked lime. It comes out without any grinding.
(They begin to quench lump lime with a very small amount of water. They give only as much water as is needed for the reaction. As a result, the lime swells, and since there was a lack of water, a dry powder is formed; - LIME DOUGH obtained from fluff or lump lime by slaking it with excess the amount of water.
The weight of the FLUFF in relation to the mass of vitriol for a volume of 10 liters. water in Bordeaux LIQUID and is 1:0.75. The weight of the KIPELKA and the GROUND QUICKLY should always be BO / more because it contains insoluble impurities !!! After straining, everything seems to be back to normal.
"TRAP" or "rebus" here have a purely subjective aspect: A) illiteracy and irresponsibility of trade. A clear violation of the rules for submitting information: COMPLETENESS and CONSISTENCY!. Alas, very often even the instructions for the ORDER of preparing liquids, tearing at their own kind, they do not write correctly. They emphasize, for example, that it is necessary to pour lime into a solution of vitriol, and not vice versa. I'm not talking about ("advice from an outsider") - the need to cross a hedgehog with a motorcycle, i.e. about the obligation to add soap to the finished liquid. Lime and SOAP! Such savagery that ... I'd better keep quiet! ; B) the lack of education of our summer resident; C) our inability to read and separate "flies from cutlets"! What are we talking about?!
In the “purchased” package, as you say, (if according to the rules of sale, and not trade), everything is packaged as a MIX, incl. taking into account possible deviations (presence of insoluble impurities in KIPELKA). For the preparation of Bordeaux LIQUID, it is necessary and sufficient (for 10 l) 0.75 kg of FLUFF. Hence the trouble: why 100? Because (apparently, it’s fluff) in some recommendations, and 200 in others (probably because it’s boiling). I have no other explanation for questions 2 and 3. The same rule should be followed when the entire composition or part of the components is purchased separately, and not in a bag from agricultural firms. By the way, in 1 matchbox: copper sulfate 25 g, fluffy lime 12 g, soda ash 13 g.

3. Why is hydrated lime (in fact, slaked lime) indicated in the purchased sets of Bordeaux mixture, and “200 g of non-slaked lime” is indicated in the weight designation? (see picture of green packaging).
It's actually easy to get confused. Everywhere there are different proportions, nowhere is it really said - slaked or quicklime is used. But there is definitely a difference between them.
Thanks in advance for your help

In conclusion, dear ditim, I want to note that there are still a couple (but not doing, but) substitutes for Bordeaux liquid using copper sulfate. These are: BURGUD liquid (it is required to inject a sticky product) and BLUE BORDEAUX - ready for use in dissolved form.
BURGUNDY liquid (Bourgogne mixtion). As part of BURGUNDY, one component is copper sulphate, and the second, which has alkaline properties, can be soda ash (anhydrous and crystalline) or food (drinking) soda. Each type of soda has its own chemical composition, and they are united by the presence of sodium, a chemical element related to alkali metals. It is he who imparts alkaline properties to the solution of the second component.
Burgundy liquid "in its pure form" may seem less effective, as it sticks worse and sometimes has a burning effect, but on the other hand, it also "copes" well with fungi and is quickly washed off with water, which in turn does not spoil the decorative effect of plants and does not worsen their photosynthesis. Unlike Bordeaux, Burgundy liquid is compatible with other preparations, therefore, GREEN soap, silicate glue, milk, a tablespoon of sugar, 150 g of crushed garlic, etc. can be safely added to its working solution as an adhesive.
Here is an average version of the preparation of this fungicide:

in 5 liters of hot (50 degrees) water dissolve 100 g of copper sulfate in one container, and separately in 5 liters of warm (30 degrees) water - 100 g of soda ash (or 130 g of food) and 40 - 50 g of grated green soap or other .adhesives. Then slowly, gradually stirring, pour the first solution into the second in a thin stream. Burgundy liquid, like Bordeaux liquid, should be used immediately after preparation, and no later than 15 to 20 days before harvest. I draw your attention: the finished solution of the Burgundy liquid should also have a neutral reaction, so if the iron nail lowered into it becomes covered with a red bloom after 3 minutes, then you need to add a little more soda solution with constant stirring until the desired acidity is obtained.
Burgundy liquid, by the way, has an analogue - MEDEX - a mixture of copper sulfate with soda ash. In practice, this is a mixture for the preparation of Burgundy liquid with a ratio of 1: 1. Produced in the form of powder or dough in a plastic bag or plastic container. Shelf life - 2 years. The consumption of the drug is 100-150 g / 10 l (concentration -1-1.5%). No more than one treatment against phytophthora of potatoes and tomatoes is allowed - no later than 15 days before harvesting.
The second substitute for Bordeaux is BLUE Bordeaux. 80% w.g. (Cerek Agri, France) is a universal highly effective basic preventive contact fungicide. The active substance is copper sulfate 770 g/kg, already neutralized with slaked lime. The drug is a ready-to-use, highly soluble granules. Recommended for use in floriculture (to protect roses) and in horticulture and viticulture (vegetation period) against scab, moniliosis and bacterial burn (50 g / 5 l of water per 1 weave). The maximum frequency of treatments is 6, the last treatment is 28 days before harvest), as well as from mildew grapes (50 g / 10 l per 1 weave). The maximum frequency of treatments is 3, the last treatment is at least 30 days before harvest. In fact, blue Bordeaux is practically Bordeaux liquid and can be used in the same way as Bordeaux liquid. The protective effect of the drug is 8-14 days. The drug is moderately safe (safety class 3). Shelf life - 3 years from the date of manufacture.

Abundant flowering to your plants, a generous and healthy harvest, well-being and success, with good health! I would be glad if it was of some help. Sincerely, Stepan from Odessa - // souskuzmenko.od.ua // or in a search engine: Kuzmenko Gardens. Landscape workshop.
PS. Sorry for not being short. Not talented. There will be questions - write to E-mail, so as not to occupy the user's information space.

Please excuse me. In the 6th line from the bottom of the last paragraph of the answer to question 2, the text “For the preparation of Bordeaux LIQUID, 0.75 kg of FLUFFS is necessary and sufficient (for 10 liters),” is a typo. It should read "0.75 grams" and not KG as printed. Stepan from Odessa.

• Stephen, thank you very much for the detailed answer! Just amazed at your knowledge! I will definitely correct and supplement the article. I will listen to you and try to use more information from books and reference books than from videos and the Internet.

  • Standing applause for the desire to use printed sources. I hope not murzilochnye, but SERIOUS! However, if I may, I recommend not to ignore the Internet after all. There is a lot of useful and correct in it. You just have to look at the authors... Better with degrees. These hard workers have a stricter internal censor and a higher sense of responsibility. Because just an "agronomist" (without specifying specialization) is ALREADY - attention! this is already at the level of the plinth and it is quite possible with a “smell”. Let's say he can be an agronomist vine grower (besides, not held as a specialist) or a seed grower, but working in the field of plant protection
    i.e. in the area of ​​competence of the AGROCHEMIST, with the look of “understand a lot for yourself” (translated into Odessa - “turn up your nose”), it will be like an agronomist (like a specialist, but silent in which area of ​​​​agriculture or forestry) to pass off “starches for corals” and shamelessly talking nonsense. Or, for example, a seed grower agronomist, based on the proximity of professions with a plant grower agronomist and a vegetable grower agronomist, in matters of agricultural technology in nursery and nursery business, he will definitely beat around the bush on the topic: what kind of greenhouse is better to have and how to grow early vegetables in it, how best do heating and lighting, etc. Do you get what I'm getting at? The layman, of course, will fall for the "agronomist" and, not noticing how the "wunderkind from Privoz" still hung spaghetti on his ushetti, armed with the received, excuse me, "knowledge", he will go to destroy nature, spread rot on himself, without even suspecting it. V. Vishnevsky is right “before, if something went wrong, you immediately heard - a fool! Today is an intelligent age, they say - not competent ... ". The incompetence of amateurs infuriates me. The incompetent boom-noise around I. Lyadov's technology got it hard. There are no serious questions about the technology itself. Good technology and even worthy of attention not only in the country, private household plots, but also in the farm. I recommend that you pay attention. But the presentation ... especially the reference to (not voiced!) Scientists who allegedly claim that plants take 60% of their nutrition from the air (!) And conceptuality is built on this ... it takes me out of emotional balance. Especially when you consider that I know which of the luminaries misread these 60%. I am preparing MY view on the phenomenon of the sensible Far Easterner I. Lyadov and the problems of his technology. Someday I will grow up. To you, dear ditim, well-being and success, may good luck accompany you and, as they say in Odessa, “I wish I lived like I was healthy!”. === Stepan from Odessa (// http:// www.souskuzmenko.od.ua // or in a search engine: Kuzmenko Gardens Landscape workshop.

Possible courier delivery: in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Khabarovsk

Bordeaux liquid - a concentrate to protect your garden from diseases

Preparation Bordeaux liquid you just need to dilute with water in the recommended proportions and can be poured into the sprayer. Bordeaux liquid does not precipitate and does not clog nozzles. The treatment is carried out when the buds begin to bloom and the tips of green leaves appear from them. This phase of the plant is called the "green cone". Prevention will successfully protect the garden from scab, moniliosis, clasterosporiasis, coccomycosis, septoria, anthracnose, columnar rust, etc. The effect of the drug in early spring application is about 50 days. This is exactly the period of time when wet weather and the first warmth contribute to the spread of fungal infections.

Also, treatments can be carried out during the season. The first spraying during the growing season, after flowering, subsequent - with an interval of 7 days.

Bordeaux liquid should be used according to the instructions. Like any other fungicide, the working solution is prepared by diluting the concentrate first in a small amount of water (up to 1 liter), and then adding water to the required amount. The working solution is not subject to storage, that is, it must be used immediately.

After processing, it usually takes some time before harvest.

Advantages:

• Protects against scab, moniliosis, coccomycosis, fruit rot and various spots;
• Easy to apply, just dilute with water;
• Does not cause burns on plants.

Best before date: 2 years

Safety measures when using the drug

• Processing should be carried out in the absence of children and animals.
• Work in clothes specially designed for this purpose, rubber boots, gloves and a respirator. After work, you need to take off your overalls and take a shower.
• Store the drug separately from medicines, food and animal feed in a dry, cool place out of the reach of children and animals.

It is forbidden:

• Drink, eat, smoke.
• Use dishes (containers) for food and drinking water for the preparation of working solutions.

• Mix with other pesticides

My history of acquaintance with this substance began very far away. I once went to the market for a medicine for grapes. The store gave me a package of powders, assuring me that the substance is natural and has been on sale for over a hundred years. But the powders were of such a heavenly color that, of course, I did not believe and did not buy them.

But I took a picture of the packaging to send it to a classmate - he entered the chemistry department on his own head, and now half of the class (we live in the village) is bombarding him with messages like “what is monosodium glutamate”, “is it possible to eat tomatoes after processing with something”.

He addresses most of the questions to teachers, as he himself is interested. So in my case, he consulted, and then called and told a lot of useful things.

It is a broad-spectrum fungicide that is feared by fungal plant diseases and pests.

Buy it at the first sign:

• scab,
• coccomycosis, clusterospirosis (these diseases are eliminated not by a single, but by a fourfold treatment),
• anthracnose (bordoss will “erase” this nuisance from gooseberries after 3 sprayings),
• spotting (to clear berry crops from it, 2 treatments are needed).

What crops is this substance suitable for?

• For winter crops (saves them from root rot or snow mold).
• For many vegetables: beets, onions (they will rot less), tomatoes and potatoes (afraid of late blight), cucumbers and melons (suffering from anthracnose).
• For garden bushes: currants and grapes (against black rot).
• For ornamental bushes, flowers in a flower bed (kills various diseases of fungal origin).
• For fruit trees: peach (bordeaux helps against leaf curl), cherries, plums, cherry plums (against clasterosporiasis, coccomycosis, and not only), pears and apple trees (against rust, stains on leaves, fruit rot).

Remember: for some cultures, even a weak (1%, prophylactic) solution can be harmful. In cherries or apricots, even the fruits can crack.

Also sensitive to the Bordeaux mixture are considered roses, grapes (the most delicate varieties). It is more expedient to treat them with other, more gentle substances - for example, Kuproksat or Blue Bordeaux.

What's inside the package

As I said, two separately closed bags with white (lime) and blue (copper sulfate) powders. The main component is vitriol. But lime is also important: it protects plants from aggressive long-acting vitriol. If it is not enough, spraying may result in burns to your green pets.

Important: you need to mix these substances immediately before treating the area!

After preparing the liquid, it will be useful to check it for an alkaline reaction. If the liquid is too vigorous, just add more lime.

Liquid preparation

This is a very responsible matter, so do not ignore the instructions on the package. If you have lost it, here is a photo of the instructions from one of the manufacturers of the Bordeaux mixture:

Or I will sign everything in more detail, point by point. As an example, I will give a less saturated 1% solution.

1. The container should be plastic, glass, but not metal.
2. In a glass (jar - it doesn't matter) of warm water, dilute 10 g of blue copper sulfate.
3. Pour it into a large bowl of cold water. Together with your glass of water, there should be exactly 5 liters.
4. Fill the second container with a liter of water. Add about 125 g of lime, leave it for about an hour to slake.
5. Add water to the lime to make 5 liters.
6. Strain the lime mortar through a cheesecloth or sieve. You need to catch any undissolved lumps so that they do not clog the atomizer and interfere with your work.
7. Pour blue vitriol into a container of lime (in no case vice versa)! You can mix it all with a wooden stick.
8. Check the acidity of the resulting liquid. Find a long nail, lower it into the liquid. If it turns red, the solution needs to be quenched a little more with lime.

A 3% solution is prepared in the same way, but the proportions are different (more on that below).

There are also a few strict "no"s in this case. Namely:

• do not pour water with lime into the vitriol solution - yes, it really spoils the resulting solution;
• both solutions, when mixed, must have the same temperature;
• do not mix powders of different colors;
• do not throw vitriol into slaked lime;
• do not dilute the finished Bordeaux liquid with plain water.

Important: do not mix Bordoss with organophosphorus compounds or karbofos! Mixing with other fungicides will only reduce the effect of Bordeaux liquid.

Do not even add a simple soapy solution. Yes, it will increase the adherence of the active ingredients to the leaves - but the ingredients themselves will lose half their strength.

Dosage varies.

Never dilute the Bordeaux mixture by eye - this is not done even by the most experienced gardeners. In the preparation of a medicinal liquid, the correct dilution percentage is very important, because even if you give only half a percent more powder, this can seriously harm your garden or vegetable garden.

Dosage per 10 liters of water:

• 75 g of lime, 100 g of copper sulfate: we get a 0.5 or 0.7% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
• 150 g lime, 100 g vitriol: 1% solution.
• 450 g lime, 300 g vitriol: 3% solution.

We calculate the expense

The amount of liquid for spraying different bushes or trees will be different:

• Popular vegetables (cucumbers, tomatoes): 2 liters per 10 "squares" of the garden or field.
• Melons, as well as beets and onions: 1 liter per 10 "squares".
• Bushes: 1.5 liters per bush (treatment). As for prevention, for raspberries, grapes, and strawberries, the same one and a half liters can be stretched over 10 "squares" of planting.
• Young trees (up to six years old): 2 liters per tree.

A more accurate dosage with the percentage composition of Bordeaux liquid is indicated in this table:

Rules for processing different plants

1. The procedure should be carried out in early spring, when the flower buds have not yet opened (this is important).
2. If you missed this time and the buds opened, spraying can be done, but with an extremely weak (1%) solution. Otherwise, you will injure the leaves.
3. To prevent the liquid from burning the leaves, do not spray it in the heat, as well as at high humidity.
4. Processing must be carried out thoroughly, completely covering the plants from all sides.

After applying 3% liquid to the leaves (this percentage is not for prevention, but for treatment), the leaves may turn blue. This is normal, this color can last up to a month.

Is this liquid dangerous?

For us, yes! Therefore, swallowing liquid, powder, or simply inhaling vapors of substances is by no means impossible. If you taste the substance or eat unwashed fruit after processing, you may be poisoned.

Salvation: gastric lavage, saline and protein solutions. The doctor (and you must go to him) can also prescribe heart remedies.

If you inhale this "joy", everything can end with a 2-3 day fever, tachycardia, nosebleeds and bloating. Do not try to lie down, call an ambulance - the doctors will tell you how to be treated properly.

First of all, you need to protect yourself, both when preparing the solution and when processing trees, by putting on gloves, a hat, if any, and goggles with a respirator, and of course, protective clothing.

And besides:

1. Do not take anything with hands that have handled bordos (powders or liquids). And nothing that you have already removed the gloves. You will have time to drink water, have a snack or smoke later, when you thoroughly wash your skin with soap.
2. If the crop is almost ripe (you will harvest it in 3 weeks, or even earlier), do not spray either these plants or those that grow nearby.
3. Even if you have treated trees or garden beds in advance, wash fruits and vegetables thoroughly.
4. Do not spray Bordeaux liquid during the flowering period, as well as in adverse weather (rain or just heavy dew, wind).

What gardeners and gardeners say about the Bordeaux mixture: reviews

Even trusting a chemist friend and his teachers who recommended buying Bordeaux, I still sat on the summer residents' forums for a couple of evenings before buying. True, I was no longer interested in the composition of the substance, but in efficiency. And this is what they wrote there:

• Two treatments (high percentage in early spring, light percentage in summer) completely killed fungal diseases in the garden, as well as grapes.

• This is a contact preparation, so plants (and fruits) do not absorb it - but this is also its weakness, because if you spray the tree poorly and do not cover all the leaves, as well as the trunk, bordoss will not work.
• Some crops should be processed at the end of summer-autumn, because after harvesting they will be depleted, that's fun for diseases. You can spray strawberries and blackcurrants in the last month of summer, grapes in September or even October (depending on what the weather will be like and what kind of climate you have in general).

• Sometimes cuts of trees are covered with liquid, especially if a diseased branch had to be cut, or trees are “whitewashed” in the spring (it turns out useful, also beautiful).

At the end, we offer a video, which can also be called a review - but in fact it is much wider. The video is taken from the channel of an experienced gardener, a specialist in a company engaged in landscaping and caring for them.

He will talk about the spring processing of trees, Bordeaux liquid, as well as other preparations with which you can effectively treat trees or prevent common diseases: