Planting and caring for garden roses. Caring for roses at home

We continue talking about the rose - about this magical creation of nature.

From previous articles, we learned what should be guided when choosing for your garden and how to choose.

Now another concern has come to the fore - the right one.

It's time for our beauty to grow up and start living in the garden, delighting her owner with a gentle fragrance.

But this will be on condition that the owner knows how to plant roses correctly and skillfully approaches this responsible mission.

After all, this is one of the most important events on which the fate of a rose bush depends.

When is the best time to plant

Roses can be planted in two periods: spring and autumn. In the conditions of the middle Russian strip, it is more reliable (according to experts) to plant in the spring.

But provided that the soil warms up to + 10-12 ° C and before bud break.

As a rule, this is mid-April to the second decade of May.

• Root seedlings are ideally best taken in containers. Plant them only in the spring by transshipment of an earthen coma. For many varieties of roses, only spring planting is acceptable (ask about this nuance when buying shoots).

But planting roses in the spring has its drawbacks. These roses may be stunted (compared to fall seedlings). This lag is about two weeks.

Also, such queens are more capricious and require more supervision and care.

It is better to plan the autumn planting of roses in mid-September-mid-October.

If the timing of the event is shifted, the roses will not have time to get stronger before the first frost. In this case, it is very important that the buds of the plants have not yet begun to develop.

• 10-12 days after autumn planting roses form small young roots in themselves, which have time to gain strength before frost and feel great in a dry shelter until spring. In spring, young plants very quickly begin to form a strong, healthy bush.

If you do not have time with planting in the fall and do not want the seedlings to disappear, you can try to save them until spring by digging in.

To do this, shorten the stems and cut the roots to 30 cm. In this case, callus forms on the roots (callus that occurs at the site of the wound). Callus will develop healthy roots in the spring.

Planting roses - choosing a place

Rose loves warmth and sunlight(some of its varieties feel great in shady places), does not tolerate drafts and at the same time respects fresh air.

The ideal place for planting roses is a well-lit area (but without hitting the midday rays of the sun), sheltered from the northern cold winds.

It is best to choose a small, south-facing slope. The optimal level of occurrence of preferred waters is not less than 1.5-2 m.

• Do not plant roses in low-lying areas (melt water stagnates there, and accumulates cold air). Also, do not plant young bushes in a place where roses have already grown. If this cannot be done, then replace the soil layer half a meter deep.

The designer is talking to you

How to plant roses? Traditionally, we all try to plant beautiful plants closer to home.

This is not a bad idea, as the house will serve as a shelter from the wind and hot sun and at the same time create a great backdrop for beautiful flowers.

Here you need to apply the knowledge of color (harmonious combination of colors).

• A building or a fence of a light shade will effectively emphasize roses with rich, bright flowers... And if the wall of the house is dark, then it is better to use roses of light, pastel or white tones.

But planting roses should not be too close to the house - it will be difficult for you to care for the plants, and a close planting can harm the building. The optimal distance is 40-50 cm from the wall (fence).

• Multi-flowered varieties of roses that bloom all summer are best planted in a conspicuous place (near a gazebo, benches, recreation areas, etc.).
• Floribunda looks very impressive along the edge of lawns (it is better not to plant roses in the middle of the lawn, since lawn care has a different specifics). Also, these species are good for creating hedges.
• Tea and tea hybrid species are ideal for flower beds (it is better to make them small in size from 3-5 bushes of the same variety).
• Climbing varieties. Planting seedlings of climbing roses will give amazing view gazebo, veranda, any arch, fence, wall of the house. Space for these varieties can also be given along the edges of the lawns.
• Wild roses will decorate the border of the site and will be very useful there: thorny shoots will protect the territory from the penetration of uninvited animals and will additionally attract birds that are very fond of the fruits of wild shrubs.

If you plan to arrange dense planting of roses, then ideal neighbors for rose bushes there will be Crocuses, Primrose, Aubrieta, Rezukha, Violet, Ageratum and Alpine phlox.

Suitable for admiring roses up close hybrid tea varieties or use Floribunda to create bright, attractive spots from afar.

Perfect soil

Roses love fertile, moisture and air permeable loams with an acid reaction pH 5.5-6.5.

If the soil is too oxidized, it must be calcified. But do not get carried away - on alkaline soil, roses can develop leaf chlorosis.

• You can determine the acidity of the soil using a litmus test. Mix some soil with water and dip the litmus into it. With acidic soil, the piece of paper will turn red, if the soil is alkaline, it will take on a blue tint.

Light sandy and heavy clay lands are not suitable for beauties. Such soils can be adjusted: add sand (3 parts), turf, humus and compost (1 part each) to the loamy soil.

In clayey - coarse sand (6 parts), leafy, soddy soil, compost and humus (1 part each).

In sandstones - sod land and finely ground clay (2 parts each), compost or humus (1 part).

The land must be checked and prepared in advance (for spring planting of roses from autumn, for autumn, 30-35 days before planting seedlings).

This period is sufficient for the soil components to mix well and the earth to settle.

The soil must be carefully dug up to a depth of 60 cm.

Preparing pits for planting

In the place intended for planting rose bushes, we dig holes 60x60 cm in size, 70 cm deep. Upper part land ( fertile layer) set aside on the edge of the pits.

At the bottom of each hole, we lay a drainage layer of small pebbles, broken brick and gravel.

On top of the drainage, we pour a layer of 40 cm of a previously prepared mixture of soil and fertilizers, and on top we sprinkle the pits with a fertile layer.

Well mix:

• Garden land 2 buckets.
• Bone meal 2 cups.
• Superphosphate 1-2 handfuls.
• Dolomite flour 1-2 cups.
• Clay crushed to powder 1 bucket.
• Humus, peat, fine sand 1 bucket each.

We prepare holes for planting roses 10-14 days before the seedlings appear there. At this time, the earth will have time to settle, otherwise the rose may go deep into the soil.

The distance between the plant pits depends on the type of rose and the purpose of the planting itself:

• Between spray: 150-300 cm.
• Low and spreading: 40-60 cm.
• Curly (weak growing: 200 cm, strong growing: 300-500 cm).
• Flowerbed (weakly growing: 30-40 cm, strongly growing: 40-60 cm).
• Creeping ground (weak growing: 40-60 cm, strong growing: 100 cm).

Preparation of young seedlings

◊ Shoots. We need to cut off all damaged and dried shoots under the first bud.

Healthy shoots must also be pruned, but (for stronger seedlings 5 ​​buds are left, for seedlings medium strength and the quality of 3 buds, with a weakened state of the seedling, the shoots should be shortened almost to the entire length, leaving 3 mm at the base).

At spring planting save roses:

• Floribunda: 3-4 buds.
• Hybrid tea species: 2-3 buds.
• Low polyanthus: 2-3 buds.
• Climbing Rambler groups: shoots are cut to 35 cm.
• Tall: you can shorten the shoots by 10-15 cm for early flowering.
• Miniature and park varieties are not pruned, the shoots only need to be slightly refreshed (pruned tops).

◊ Roots. We examine the roots: cut the crumpled ones, dive the good ones 1-2 cm from the tip. Then we dip the roots into a solution of water and "Kornevin", keeping them there for several hours.

Before planting roses, the roots of the plant are cut to 20-25 cm, the damaged ones are removed before the beginning of healthy tissue.

A day before planting the roses, we place them for 11-12 hours in a container with water. Then we moisten the roots with a mixture of clay and mullein (proportion 3x1), adding a tablet of heteroauxin to a bucket of solution (pre-dissolve the tablet in water).

Packaging features

Rose seedlings can be found in completely different packages. The features of the form in which the young rose was sold must be taken into account when preparing the plant for planting:

♦ Polyethylene cylinders. Baltic growers like to pack rose seedlings in plastic cylinders without a bottom.

Plants are in such packaging from the very moment of inoculation, so they can be easily planted without destroying the earth coma. But before planting, carefully examine the roots.

• If the roots are light, directed outward, the plant can be planted immediately. And if there are few light roots, they are tangled - in this case, gently straighten the roots, cut dry ones. It is imperative to ensure that the roots are directed outward and downward. If the seedlings need to be stored in cylinders, store them in a pot, having previously unpacked.

♦ Saplings grown on light peat bog in greenhouses. Based on the experience of gardeners, such seedlings need to be planted by breaking the earthen ball (by the way, contrary to many literary instructions).

As a rule, the pots of such seedlings are small, and the roots tightly entangle the ground, forming a kind of "felt". The roots cannot get out of such a coma on their own, roses do not take root in a new place for a long time and often die.

• Be sure to remove the seedling from the pot before planting and soak it in water so that all the air comes out of the earthy ball. Then use a sharp knife to remove the outer layer of the roots. Wash the roots of the seedling from the soil, but do not touch them at the base. Then straighten the roots and plant the rose.

♦ Net packing. The manufacturer says that seedlings in a mesh container can be planted directly in it. But in the experience of gardeners, planting roses in a net very often gives poor results. Saplings take root poorly.

Therefore, try to partially break the integrity of the net before planting and straighten out the surface roots (by cutting off rotten or dry ones).

Planting roses

When planting seedlings, carefully monitor the grafting site (this is the part of the root from where the shoots begin to grow). The grafting should be 3-5 cm below the surface of the soil.

Thus, the rose will receive protection from the heat of the sun and winter cold. And from the grafting, additional shoots will not develop - they inhibit the growth and development of the main ones.

If the soil shrinks, add soil mixture so that holes do not form, otherwise the roots may begin to rot from excess moisture.

Landing methods. There are two known methods of planting roses that have worked well:

◊ Dry method. This method is suitable for areas with high humidity... At the bottom of the prepared hole, we make a small earthen roller - on it we will lay out the roots of the flower.

It is better to plant a rose together. One holds the bush and places it neatly in the hole. The second straightens the roots and gently falls asleep potting soil while compacting the plant with your hands.

Then the rose bush is watered abundantly with water (for each bush 10 liters of water). After 2-3 days, the soil is loosened and spud up to a height of 10 cm (to the level of shoots cut).

If this is not done, the shoots of the rose may dry out (especially in hot weather).

• Loss of moisture often leads to the death of the rose. To avoid this, create an additional shelter for your beauty in the form of mounds of wet moss or raw sawdust. If these mounds are too compacted, loosen them slightly.

If your rose has taken root, after 10-15 days it will have the first young shoots. As soon as you notice them, the plant can be undone. This procedure is best done in a cloudy season.

◊ Wet method. Such a planting of roses better fit for regions with arid climate. A bucket of water is poured into the prepared pit (dissolve a tablet of heteroauxin in it in advance, you can also add a solution of Sodium Humate of the color of strong tea).

One person can cope with such an operation. With one hand, lower the seedling directly into the water, with the other hand fill the hole with a water-soil mixture.

The mixture of earth and water perfectly fills the entire space between the roots without the formation of voids.

When planting, you need to periodically shake the bush and carefully compact the earth. No watering required.

If the soil subsides, the next day, slightly raise the seedling, add earth and spud it 10-15 cm. After planting, shade the young rose for 10-12 days.

The nuances of planting seedlings of various types

♦ Park. To plant roses of this type of hole, you need to do a little more: 90x90 cm, 70 cm deep.It is important that voids do not form in the row of plantings, if this happens, fill the empty spaces with annual flowers.

The planting density for park roses is also important so that the plants do not give many root shoots, which must then be removed.

♦ Teahouses and Floribunda. For these beauties the best time planting - spring. For tea roses, you will need a support for climbing shoots.

Pits for plants of these types can be made a little smaller: 50x50 cm with a distance of about 50 cm.

♦ Tea-hybrid. Of all types of roses, hybrid tea are the most fastidious about heat, so you need to plant such roses in May (subject to the onset of stable warm weather).

The planting method is better for her "wet". Do not let these roses bloom for a couple of weeks (cut the first 4-6 buds for this).

♦ Climbing. These types of roses can be planted in spring and autumn. When planting, immerse the inoculation site in the ground a little deeper than usual (by 10-12 cm).

This species needs support (the distance between the support and the stem of the rose is no more than 50 cm) and shelter for the winter.

Before planting roses, the lashes need to be cut to a height of 30-35 cm and the roots should be shortened.

When planting, climbing roses are slightly tilted towards the support, and the roots are directed away from the support.

♦ Ground blooms. For such roses, it is very important that there are no weeds in their area. It is best to sprinkle the soil with bark or sawdust after getting rid of weeds.

After all, the root system of soil blooms completely covers the entire earth with very flexible and prickly shoots.

Well, dear readers, one of the most difficult and important milestones completed. Our roses are planted in the garden.

The further fate of gentle beauties will completely depend on your attention and competent care. About and care for our rose garden, as well as about roses, about possible ones - we will talk about them in the next article.

See you soon, dear readers!

This symbol of love and beauty is shrouded in legends. The first mentions of growing roses date back to the times of Ancient Iran. Today everyone can grow this charming rose flower in his or her garden. An amazingly beautiful shrub with fragrant petals to grow in open ground or a greenhouse is not difficult. The main thing is to figure out how the cultivation is carried out correctly, and your roses in the garden will become true queens.

How to properly care for roses on the street - this question is faced by almost every novice florist. The first thing to look out for is moisture. The rosette belongs to moisture-loving plants, but do not overdo it with watering. Let's say you are breeding a flower in the middle latitudes of Russia. Summer here, as a rule, is not too deprived of precipitation, so it will be enough for you to flood the bush with water once a week. It is best to do this in the morning or evening so that the moisture does not evaporate too quickly.

But caring for garden roses that grow in a hot and dry microclimate should include much more frequent and abundant watering, up to daily, if necessary.

To grow roses as soon as possible give its results, Special attention pay attention to the quality of the water. It should be soft and not contain a lot of salts. The best option- to defend tap water, rainwater or take well water. Caring for garden roses also involves loosening the earth after each. Otherwise, the substrate will become clogged, and the plant will not receive sufficient oxygen.

Top dressing

How to care for roses in spring so that the plant blooms longer and becomes less susceptible to invasion? A mandatory step in growing roses is to feed the flower. In the first year after planting the seedling, it is recommended to apply nutrient mixtures to the ground at least three times over the summer. The choice of nutritional formulations will depend on the season due to biological characteristics flower.

Remember: the queen of the garden does not like acidic soil. That is why domestic gardeners, if necessary, add calcium to the ground: slaked lime, wood ash, dolomite flour.

As soon as you take cover off the bush in early spring and spend, it's time to start leaving and first. It is better to introduce nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium nitrate). Be sure to dig up the ground after adding the nutrient mixture. Further, each of the feeding stages will be carried out in parallel with the growth phase of the shrub (during the period when the buds open or new shoots grow).

Pruning

Taking proper care of your roses in spring also involves pruning the plant regularly. But in order for outdoor garden roses to develop to the fullest, this procedure must be approached with all seriousness. Varieties and degrees of pruning of a plant on the present stage several are proposed:

• at a distance of four buds from the base of the shoot. This pruning method is used in several cases - when you have just purchased a seedling and planted it in the spring, or you want to rejuvenate an aged bush. Very often this method is used to stimulate the growth of underdeveloped plants;
• at a distance of seven buds from the base. During flowering, the garden rose will become much more lush;
• cutting off the ends of the stems. This is the most gentle pruning method. It is used to stimulate the rose to bloom as soon as possible.

Knowing how to care for roses in the garden, you can breed a truly royal c.

Disease prevention

Regularly monitor the condition of the bush, inspect it. If you notice that the leaves are covered with spots, cracks appear on the stems, or the buds no longer bloom, all this can serve as a signal for the development of an ailment in a rose. Prevention will prevent any disease. Plus, the sooner you take action, the less your favorite garden queen will suffer.

Pest control

One more dangerous pest for the queen of the garden, a sawfly. It penetrates into the shoots, forming holes there. You can get rid of these insects, however, for this, all affected parts of the plant will need to be removed. From sawflies, it is better to use preventive measures. To do this, spray the rose with wormwood infusion.

Shelter for the winter

If caring for roses in the garden in the summer includes many different procedures (the plant needs to be fed, watered, tied up), it is very important to prepare the plants for the cold before winter. To do this, the shrub will need to be pruned again. This time, the shoots that did not have time to ripen are removed. Then the plant is covered with a special cloth. The best option is lutrasil, agrotex, spunbond.

Before covering the rose, build a special wooden frame... Thus, you not only protect the flower from damage, but also create space for air circulation. It is not difficult to grow garden roses knowing how to care for them, how to tie them up and how to feed them. Each grower will be able to provide the proper conditions for the growth of the queen of the garden in the open field. Take care of garden flowers- and roses in the garden will decorate your garden plot, and caring for them will not become too burdensome.

Video "Fertilizing and feeding roses"

In this video, you will learn how to properly fertilize and feed roses.

It is difficult to find a flower as popular and beloved as a rose. Mentions about it are found in sources belonging to the III-IV centuries BC. But, despite the antiquity of its origin, it is still the queen of flowers, occupying one of the first places in the duration of flowering and beauty among other ornamental plants.

Choosing a site for planting roses

In order to successfully grow roses, the site for them must be prepared especially carefully. The most important thing is that they are not grown there before. According to the composition of the soil, loamy ones are considered the most suitable, with a humus content of no more than 3%. It is desirable to change the other composition of the soil. To do this, add an additional amount of either sand or clay, depending on the needs of the soil.

In the fall, the site is dug up to a depth of 60 cm, organic matter is introduced.

Planting roses

Roses are a crop that can be planted from spring to early fall. In the spring, they are recommended to be planted before the second decade of April. 10 days before this, the wells are prepared according to the scheme 40x40x40 cm.After a few days, a layer of 5-10 cm of humus mixed with the ground is filled into the holes.

after a week, you can plant roses. Before planting, the roots are cut off by 20-25 cm, 4 shoots are left from the aerial part, shortening them to 3 eyes. The rest of the shoots are removed completely. The seedlings are lowered into the holes, evenly distributing the roots inside, filling them with soil so that there are no voids between the roots, then upper layer compact and give abundant watering. After that, the above-ground part must be sprinkled with soil to protect it from return frosts and moisture evaporation.

At the beginning of July, you can plant last year's seedlings, filling, if necessary, the places from the roses that died during the winter. The holes for them are made spacious, after planting they are abundantly watered and shaded for 2 weeks using coniferous legs.

In autumn, it is advisable to plant roses in the last decade of September. They will have time to take root well before the onset of frost, the buds do not germinate. Earlier and later plantings are undesirable. If the plants survived the winter well, they bloom 10-12 days earlier than after planting in early spring.

Caring for young plantings of roses

Further growth and development of the plant largely depends on the correct care in the first year.

As soon as young shoots began to appear, the roses are freed from the soil that was used for hilling. It is recommended to remove the land in cloudy weather or in the evening. If the weather is sunny and hot, it is better to shade the bushes with conifers until the young shoots get stronger. After 2 weeks, you can do the first pruning of the main shoot by shortening it over the second or third leaf. The same is further done with lateral shoots of the second order, while the upper peephole should remain on the outside of the trunk, and the eyes that go inward are removed. This will allow the bush to form properly.

Further care for roses is the systematic loosening of the soil, removal of weeds, prevention of diseases, feeding with liquid organic fertilizers. The best fertilizer for roses is considered to be slurry, which contains all necessary for the plant substances. Enough 3-4 dressings per season, starting from the second decade of June and ending with the first decade of August. A solution for feeding is prepared from a mullein and water in a ratio of 1: 3, stirred and left for 10 days, before feeding, diluted with water 1:10.

Before fertilizing, the soil under the roses is watered, and when the water is absorbed, 3 liters of fertilizing are applied per bush. The next day, the soil must be loosened.

Advice!

It is not recommended to add mineral fertilizers to the mixture for feeding the plantings of the current year. However, it is imperative to remove the emerging wild growth by cutting it out at the base.

In the first year, early flowering of young plants should not be allowed. Until the beginning of August, the buds are removed from the bushes. Leave 1-2 flowers on each shoot and do not cut them off, so that fruits will set in the fall. Such plants ripen better and bloom more abundantly next year.

Throughout the summer they spend preventive treatment from pests, using the available preparations according to the instructions.

Shelter of young bushes for the winter is carried out when freezing temperatures begin. It is recommended to cover the bushes completely using coniferous legs. In the spring, young bushes are opened first, and then older ones.

Caring for roses of previous plantings

Plantings of previous years usually bloom several times during the entire growing season. After each flowering, part of the shoots is cut off, ensuring the next flowering.

The soil is loosened to a depth of 10 cm twice a month, providing oxygen access to the roots. Twice a season, the plot itself is dug up to a depth of up to 25 cm. The first time it is done after the opening of the roses, the second - at the end of August.

Watering roses is necessary regularly and plentifully, in hot weather, weekly. It is especially important during the period of growth and during the period of bud formation. An earthen circle near the bushes is watered, and the next day, loosening is carried out.

Top dressing is carried out regularly, applying organic and mineral fertilizers. They use the same composition as for young plantings, but use humus instead of mullein and add 10 mg of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers each.

Pruning roses

Pruning is a very important procedure in the life of roses. It stimulates the growth of young shoots, renews the plant, prevents old weak shoots from absorbing nutrients, and allows the formation of a beautiful and healthy bush. Timely and correctly pruned, roses can bloom for up to 25 years or more.

On different stages the development of the bushes, pruning is carried out weak, medium and strong. Weak accelerates flowering, with it only the tip of the shoot is removed. With an average, 5-7 buds are left, with a strong one - 2-3. To carry out pruning, you need a good pruning shears, which make a cut under acute angle 1 cm above the eye.

The primary pruning is done in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. All dead shoots are removed and burned. The next, more thorough, is done after the opening of the bushes and the awakening of the kidneys.

In polyanthus roses, pruning is done immediately strong, this stimulates continuous flowering these varieties. In remontant roses every year, a third of the shoots are pruned strongly, and two-thirds - weakly. In climbing plants, damaged shoots and part of last year's ones that have faded are removed. Young, not blooming, cannot be cut off, they will bloom next year.

After flowering on roses, remove all wilted and starting to fade flowers, cutting them off with part of the shoot up to the second eye. Summer pruning excludes the formation of fruits, and new buds grow rapidly and give the next wave of flowering.

The last pruning is carried out in the second half of August, leaving several buds on each bush. This helps the plant better prepare for winter.

Simultaneously with pruning, it is necessary to regularly remove wild growth, which weakens the plant and in the future can cause the death of the cultivated part of the bush. Wild shoots are removed at the very base.

Reproduction of roses

There is a vegetative method of reproduction, and seed. Almost all garden varieties propagated vegetatively, and wild species and hybrids - by seeds.

After budding, there is a more powerful growth of bushes, high frost resistance, drought resistance. However, the process is laborious, time-consuming and less suitable for novice florists. Standard seedlings can only be obtained in the third year.

Cutting requires less labor, flowering is obtained already in the second year, there is no need to grow a stock. However, when propagated by cuttings, roses are more sensitive to adverse conditions.

Budding can be carried out from late April to mid-September. The area where the rootstock grows (most often the dog rose) is watered abundantly a week before the work, so that the bark begins to peel off easily at the rootstock. Then the cuttings for the stock are cut from the middle part of the faded shoots of roses, the leaves are removed from them, leaving the petioles.

BY THE WAY!

Cuttings can be prepared 1-2 days before budding and kept in a damp and cool place. Eyes from such cuttings take root better. For spring budding, cuttings are most often harvested in autumn and stored in wet sand at a temperature of + 1 ... 2 ° C.

The peephole for budding is cut off with a bark shield up to 1.5 cm long. The petiole is preserved, since it is more convenient to insert the peephole with it under the bark.

Before budding, at the rootstocks, open the root collar near the base of the bush, rub the bark, make a T-shaped incision on the root collar and insert a cultural eye into it. Then the place of budding is tightly tied. The rootstock is spud with earth and 2 weeks are waiting for the growth of the eye and the rootstock.

In the spring of next year, the aerial part of the rootstock 1 cm above the budding site is cut off in order to direct the nutrients to the developing peephole. Further care is the same as for annual plants.

Cuttings are usually carried out after the first flowering, within a month, starting from the second decade of July. Only faded and lignified shoots are taken for cuttings. Cuttings are cut from the middle of the annual shoot, keeping at least 2 eyes per cutting. The lower cut is made 1 cm below the kidney, and the upper one is made above the kidney. The cuttings are immediately planted in the ground under the shelter.

The soil in the lower part consists of horse manure, then there is a layer turf land, and in the upper part - river sand. The cuttings are planted at an angle of 60 °, deepening by a third. Distance in rows - 5-6 cm. Between rows - 7-8 cm. Temperature for rooting is required at least + 24 ° С, humidity - up to 90%. After a day, the cuttings are opened and sprayed with water. Rooting usually occurs after 3 weeks. Before freezing, cuttings with young leaves are covered with dry foliage with a layer of up to 30 cm, and a layer of spruce branches. In the spring they are planted in a permanent place.

Stamp roses

It is very spectacular plants in the form of small trees strewn beautiful flowers... Rosehip varieties such as canina and rugosa are used as a stock for standard roses. Fruits, which ripen at the end of August, are harvested in a state of onset of reddening of the shell. Such fruits germinate faster. Before sowing, rosehip seeds are mixed with pitch and kept wet for 2 weeks. In September, they are sown in the ground, watered and mulched with peat.

In dry autumn, watering is carried out 2-3 times with intervals of 5-6 days. Seedlings will appear in May next year .. In the second decade of June, they are dived according to the scheme 40 × 80 cm. In summer, fertilizing is carried out with liquid organic fertilizer, 2-3 times during the growing season. In autumn, all shoots are cut off at the base, leaving 1-2 of the strongest ones. The next growing season, the stem itself is grown, regularly removing the root shoots and all awakened buds on the lower part of the left shoots.

A well-developed root system allows the boles to grow up to 1.5 m by July. During this period, budding begins, using 2-3 eyes for inoculation. They are grafted on both sides of the shoot, at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. Above the grafted eyes, 1-2 shortened lateral shoots are left, the rest are removed. If there are eyes and shoots below the budding site, they must also be removed, wrap the budding site plastic wrap... The bandage is removed after 2 weeks, when the eyes take root. Shoots or buds above the budding site are removed. For grafting, varieties of cultivated roses with large fragrant flowers are used.

Winter Shelter Roses

In the second half of August, watering, loosening and pruning are stopped. They begin to cover roses when the temperature drops to + 3 ° C. Spruce branches, a layer of soil and wooden shields are considered a traditional and reliable shelter.

A combined shelter - with needles and earth, is considered the most reliable. The earth does not stick to the shoots, an air space is formed between the plant and the soil layer, which makes it possible to better preserve the bush.

First of all, in order to enjoy the beauty of this flower for a long time, you need to choose healthy plants and plant the acquired bushes correctly.

Nowadays it is not difficult to buy a rose. Many online stores and large supermarkets offer planting material v huge amount... In addition, there are markets where numerous private rose breeders and growers offer their products. And here you can be completely confused before opting for any seedlings.

When you decide to buy a plant, you first need to decide on the place where roses will be grown on summer cottage... Because this shrub likes a sunny place protected from strong winds... Next, you must decide what kind of roses you need (according to the height and width of the bush). Great importance also has a flower scent. But only after solving these problems, you can go shopping.

When choosing a seedling, you need to pay attention to its root system... It should be well developed, with two or three powerful shoots. The rootstock trimming site (rose hips, on which all cultivated species are grafted) should be low and clearly visible. The leaves of the plant should not have various kinds of spots, cobwebs, twisted leaves, which may indicate the onset of a plant disease or its defeat by harmful insects.

It is best to buy seedlings in early autumn, when they are already sold with flowers. Then it is no longer possible to make a mistake in the variety or type. In the spring, you can buy a pig in a poke, hoping only for the decency of the seller, who claims that he sells, for example, Gloria Dale, and not Black Magic.

How to plant a rose correctly

Growing roses in a summer cottage involves planting seedlings immediately in a permanent place. Before identifying the purchased plant for its "eternal apartment", the seedling must be kept for some time in a solution of Epin or Zircon, diluted according to the attached instructions.

Before planting, it is necessary to shorten the roots by 0.5-1 cm with pruning shears or sharp scissors. In the prepared hole, the seedling is grafted to the south, then covered with a little earth and spilled abundantly with water, after which it is completely covered with soil, squeezing the roots well. It is necessary that the grafting be hidden underground to a height of 8–10 cm. This will save the seedling from freezing in winter.

If the purchased seedling has unblown buds or flowers, they should be cut off, as well as the main leaf mass. Leaves evaporate a lot of water, and when a plant is rooting, water is never superfluous.

What kind of care is required for roses

Growing roses in the open field includes periodic watering of plants, loosening, weeding. In addition, the list of works includes treatment for diseases and pests.

Watering is done early in the morning or in the evening with settled water, the temperature of which is close to the ambient temperature. You need to water about once a week, but in large doses, one bucket for each bush under the root. After that, the trunk circle should be mulched or loosened when the earth dries out a little so that a crust does not form, which blocks the access of oxygen to the roots. Watering often and in small portions is not necessary, because in this case roots are formed that are located close to the surface of the earth, which can freeze out in winter.

At the first signs of the appearance of pests or diseases, you need to use drugs that help fight both of them. There are many such drugs now, and in any gardening store the seller will advise which one is better.

For the winter, hybrid tea roses are cut to the height of the expected snow cover. It is recommended to pour it into the center of the bush on a bucket of dry earth to protect the grafting site from freezing. Pruning and backfilling of plants is carried out when resistant negative temperatures-5 degrees, persisting day and night.

Secondary is carried out after wintering. Climbing roses are laid, having previously tied them with ropes and gradually bending the whole bush to the ground. From above the roses can be covered non-woven fabric, forming a dry shelter above the bushes.

The rose has many worshipers, but few people decide to plant it in their garden, assuming that it needs special care. But the rose is not so whimsical as it is commonly believed. You just need to follow the rules of its breeding.

Today, rose seedlings are sold in abundance. However, it is not a fact that the plant will take root and will be of the promised color and size, as we wanted. Therefore, I would like to know how not to make a mistake and choose the right rose seedlings, based on the fact that not all roses winter well in the conditions of the Moscow region and the northern regions.

Roses grow successfully in one place for up to 10 years. For their successful cultivation, it is very important to choose the right place for planting. Best suited sunny places, sheltered from the winds, with fertile, but not waterlogged soil with acidity close to neutral. It can be planted in spring or autumn. They are planted in a hole up to 1 m deep, filling it with compost or other rotted organic fertilizer. When planting seedlings, it is necessary to ensure that the inoculation site is 5 cm underground. Roses do not like alkaline soil and die at high levels. groundwater... Before planting, they are cut at a height of 15-20 cm. Then the plants are watered and hilled.

After planting, special attention should be paid to agrotechnical care, since many diseases are aggravated by improper agricultural techniques (excessive fertilization, dryness or waterlogging, sharp temperature fluctuations). Agrotechnical techniques and the timing of their implementation depend on natural conditions... And the number of irrigations depends on the duration of the growing season, the amount of precipitation, the proximity of groundwater, temperature conditions, the structure of the soil (how much it is able to retain and retain moisture). Roses are watered starting in spring, about once a week. In the fall, watering is stopped. Sprinkler irrigation is not recommended, as it increases the susceptibility to disease.

Throughout the growing season, roses should be carefully cared for, spring pruning, forming shrubs, loosening the soil around the bushes, watering, feeding, killing weeds, mulching, protecting against pests, preparing for winter and sheltering ... When pruning, you can select suitable shoots for grafting.

Pruning roses and shaping shrubs

Each year, with the onset of spring, roses are pruned. Reasons why roses are pruned:

1. Correction of the shape of the bushes after the previous growing season. In the past summer, the branches of roses have grown in an undesirable direction. For this, those branches are trimmed that have violated the shape of the bushes.

2. Pruning of bushes is done in such a way that according to the plan of the gardener:
- the bushes will produce large, single flowers on long stalks;
- the bushes will produce many flowers on many shoots. In this case, the flowers will be smaller, but in large quantities.

3. Rejuvenate the bushes by cutting off old branches and forcing the bushes to produce new young shoots.

After the probability of frost has disappeared, and the buds have not yet blossomed, it is the best time to prune the roses.

Take a close look at the roses first. All branches that have grown inside the bushes must be removed. This will thin out the rose bushes and allow better ventilation. Then it is necessary to remove branches to living wood that have been damaged or died off during the winter. On highly vigorous bushes, all frail shoots are pruned. If the bush is weak, then such shoots are left too, but the branch is shortened by at least one bud. This stimulates growth and strengthens the plant itself. The pruning of roses should be such that the existing roots can feed all branches of the above-ground part of the bushes. it important condition trimming. In this case, the roses will grow normally and bloom well.

How to properly prune roses FOR GROWING LARGE FLOWERS

In addition to sanitary pruning of large-flowered roses, they are pruned to grow larger cut flowers. In this case, on each branch that you left, you must cut off the shoot so as to leave 3-4 buds on it. This promotes the development of powerful shoots from the small number of buds left behind. Large flowers are formed on such long shoots.

Pruning roses for CULTIVATION OF FLOWERS IN THE CLUMB

If you want roses to bloom profusely in a flower bed, then pruning must be done so that 3-6 buds are left on the shoots left after preliminary pruning for growth. As a result of such pruning, many flowers will appear, smaller and on smaller pedicels.

Pruning roses such as FLORIBUNDA OR TEA ROSE HYBRIDS for growing in a flower bed

If you want to create a lush bush of these species, then formative pruning is necessary. Depending on how you imagine this bush in the future, prune in this dependence. Do sanitary pruning first, and then start shaping the bush. It is difficult to say how many kidneys to keep. It can be 3 or 6. It all depends on the bush that you decide to form. If the flowering and growth of such bushes suddenly decreases, then later you will have to make a stronger pruning of roses.

Trimming MINIATURE ROSES

Basically, miniature rose bushes are pruned in the same way as hybrid tea bushes. It is a sanitary and formative pruning. Leave 2-3 buds on the branches. Branch length no more than 4 ″ (10cm). If you have not cut the plant, then it enters the flowering time much later. In the summer, faded flowers, dry twigs, wilted leaves are removed. This is done so that pests or diseases do not appear on them, and also in order to improve the decorative effect of the bush.

Pruning braided roses

Spring pruning climbing roses produced only at the ends of the branches. If the plant is older than 4 years, then the old shoots are cut completely to the base of the soil after flowering, the young shoots are not touched and they are not cut off during the year, since it is at their ends that roses will bloom next year.

TIPS FOR CUTTING ROSES

1. Early, timely pruning stimulates the flowering of rose bushes. Pruning too early before the end of the frost slows down the flowering of roses.

2. Late pruning of roses slows down the beginning of the growing season.

3. After pruning the rose bushes, feed them.

4. In order for the dormant buds to start growing on climbing roses, it is necessary to tie up a young branch in a horizontal or inclined position.

5. All sections over 1 cm must be covered with garden varnish or Novikov's liquid.

6. After pruning, the plants should be sprayed with a 1% solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 l of water) or a 1-3% solution of Bordeaux liquid.

Such groups of roses as Spinosissima, Rugosa, Gallica and their hybrids, Moschata hardly need pruning. Flowers are formed on the side branches of the shoots of biennial and older branches. Pruning of roses is carried out in case of damage to branches or natural withering away.

It is best to prune with a knife to avoid crushing the branch. The rose pruning knife should be sharp. Disinfect it before trimming.

Pruning is done at a height of 5-8 mm above the bud so that the future shoot does not dry out. Make the cut obliquely from the kidney.

Loosening the soil and mulching

Roses need constant care, as well as loosening the soil around the plants (to a depth of 5-10 cm), especially in a hot period, after prolonged rains, when a solid crust forms. As a result, all weeds are destroyed, air easily penetrates into the loosened soil, the earth warms up well, besides, loosening saves water. Deep loosening is dangerous for the rose, since even minor damage to the roots harms the plant. Usually, loosening begins in May and ends in July-August to avoid encouraging the plant to grow further.

When caring for roses, mulching is used by sprinkling the surface of the earth with peat, humus, peat compost. Such filling with a layer of up to 10 cm allows you to reduce the amount of watering and loosening, improves physical and Chemical properties soil, living conditions of soil microorganisms. Therefore, in the spring, immediately after the spring work, you need to pour mulching material between the rose bushes, it is better to do this work before the buds open. If the bedding spoils decorative view, later it will be possible to embed it in the soil by loosening.

Preparing roses for winter and shelter

An important quality of roses is their resistance to low temperatures. However, when choosing a variety for unfavorable soils and slopes, you need to take into account the characteristics of roses. Especially should be protected large-flowered, multi-flowered varieties, which should be spud and covered with plastic wrap for the winter.

For winter, rose bushes are carefully bent to the ground, covered with dry material (peat, spruce branches, leaves, sawdust), and an old oilcloth (cellophane film) is placed on top. Then the snow will reliably cover the bushes. In early spring, when it gets a little warmer, the winter cover is gradually removed. Roses are fully opened only after the soil has thawed. Cut off dried branches and, if necessary, shorten the shoots. The variety is chosen taking into account the planting site - a garden bed, a flower bed, a balcony or a pot.

Roses are perennial crops that are grown outdoors. With such cultivation, great attention is paid to both preventive measures and the protection of plants from diseases and pests. The selection of varieties with increased disease resistance is of great importance in the cultivation of roses.

Fertilizers and dressing for roses

An important part of caring for roses is proper nutrition... It should be remembered that roses do not like acidic soil, they require constant application of organic fertilizers, a sufficient amount of a variety of nutrients. Calcium is needed to neutralize acidic soils: dolomite flour, chalk, slaked lime, wood ash, and organic fertilizer, a deoxidizer, are used.

Nitrogen promotes plant growth, roses need it after pruning (in early May), during the formation of new shoots, in preparation for re-flowering. Deadline nitrogen application - early August (fertilizers that cause growth: urea, liquid organic feeding, "Effekton - Ts", "Effekton - DC".

Phosphorus is essential for the maturation of strong shoots. Influences the intensity and quality of flowering. It is brought in from June to September inclusive (single or double superphosphate)

Potassium is needed during budding and flowering, as well as in preparing roses for winter. Potassium is easily washed out of the soil, it is introduced from June to October in the form of potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate), potassium chloride.

Trace elements (magnesium, iron, boron, manganese) are required during the entire growing season. The lack of iron in the soil causes chlorosis, the lack of boron and manganese reduces plant immunity. Apply "Agricola for flowering plants" (granular mineral fertilization) and "Agricola - Rose", any complete fertilizer (always contains trace elements) and wood ash.

In the first year after planting, when filling the soil with fertilizers, there is no need for top dressing. In subsequent years, roses need regular nutrition. Mineral fertilizers, primarily nitrogen in the form of ammonium nitrate, are applied in early spring after the removal of the shelter and pruning. After fertilization, the soil is dug to a depth of 10 cm. Further feeding is timed to the phases of plant growth and development - the beginning of flowering, new growth of shoots.

It is a common mistake to add fresh manure or bird droppings to the soil for planting roses in the spring. For young seedlings, this is simply destructive. Organic fertilizers it is better to give plants in liquid form.

1 liter of mushy mullein (cow dung) or bird droppings is diluted with 10 liters of water. Poultry droppings should ferment in a barrel for up to 10 days, only after that it is used, once again diluting at the rate of 0.5-1 liter of the prepared solution per 10 liters of water. Water only under the bushes so that flies do not start. After feeding with such unpleasant-smelling nutrients from above, you need to "powder" the soil with wood ash or chalk, then loosen it to a depth of 5-6 cm.

Usually in spring, roses get good nutrition from mulching carried out in late autumn, early November. Usually, decomposed cow dung or peat-manure humus, or just well-prepared peat, or vegetable humus are poured onto the bushes ... These organic matter - great source humus. Thanks to this nutrition, the rose forms a root system more intensively in the spring, and if it is fed with nitrogen at this time (about 1 tablespoon of urea / carbamide), then the results will be excellent.

The approximate dose of fertilizers per 1 sq. M: ammonium nitrate 20 grams, superphosphate 30 grams, potassium salt 10 grams. V summer period liquid fertilizing with mullein is effective. Top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers ends at the end of July. In August, for better ripening of the shoots, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are applied. For the same purpose, watering is limited.