How to prune a garden rose. Cut wisely - you will be with a flower, or summer pruning of roses

Flower growers often argue about the consistency of color of nearby flowers, including roses. Some people think that an orange rose like Domstadt Fulda should not be planted next to a bright pink Electron type rose. Everything is not so simple, because they will collide in flowering only once per season. After a wave of different times spring flowering they will have different repeat cycles (from 28 to 60 days).

It is useful to know that the fewer petals in a rose flower and the shorter their flowering, the faster they bloom again.

A rose with a single flower on a stem will bloom again before the one that forms inflorescences. In fact, when some single-flowered roses reach the third cycle, the inflorescence rose only blooms a second time. Whether to plant roses with flowers of sharply contrasting colors next to them depends on the choice of the rose grower - there are simply no stable criteria.

For different regions the time to cut roses is ambiguous. Bought in flower shop a rose usually has 30 to 40 petals. It is with this number of petals that the flower has the most balanced shape, which is easily preserved for a long time. Of course, cut roses with a small number of petals are also beautiful.
It is only important to follow the rule: the fewer petals a rose has, the earlier it must be cut. When to cut roses of different varieties:

• Non-double roses such as Sally Holmes should be cut as soon as the sepals open.
• Hybrid tea roses are recommended to be cut when the bud has blossomed by one third.
• Gustomahrovy roses () it is better to give time to bloom well on the bush. Austin's firm is now breeding specialty cut roses. Every year, strongly double roses are increasingly used in the preparation of wedding bouquets and flower arrangements.

When arranging a flower bed with roses intended for cutting, it is important to take care of the safety of plants. It is impossible to deprive a rose of most of the foliage - this causes potentially irreparable damage to it.

When is the right time to cut roses?

Wise flower growers never cut more than a third of the flowers blooming on a bush at a time. To get especially large flowers on a hybrid tea rose, you need to cut off all the lateral buds that form around the apical bud on each of the stems. While the kidneys are small, they are easy to pinch off with your fingers. Using a pruner for this delicate procedure, it is easy to damage the flower.

Roses should be cut early in the morning or late in the evening, this is done so that the cut roses stand for a long time. At this time, the content of sugars and water in the flowers is maximum, so the roses will not wither longer. The stem from the bush is cut with a sharp pruner, then the stem is cut again under water so that air bubbles do not rise up, thereby accelerating the withering of the flower. When cutting the stems of the desired length, it is impossible to deprive the bush of more than half of the foliage at a time, because the longer the cut stem, the more time and effort the rose will need to produce new flower. An incision made just above the outward-facing eye helps keep the shape of the bush.

A cut rose flower is gorgeous even without a stem when placed in a bowl of water. For a single flower, a transparent glass or crystal vessel with a diameter of about 15 cm is suitable. bigger size will include several different flowers, selected in size and color.

How to save a rose if it is long-stemmed?

First, immerse the stem up to the flower in water at a temperature of about + 40 ° C, and then you need to keep it for several hours in a cool place at a temperature of about + 10 ° C. Roses cut in advance for a special event or celebration are stored in a dark, cool place. To keep the rose fresh in the refrigerator, it is placed in a plastic bag, and the roses must be laid dry there, as spotting will appear on wet flowers. It is important to consider that apples give off a gas that makes roses bloom faster, so keeping them together in the refrigerator is not recommended. Most roses keep in the refrigerator for three days with little loss of petal density.

Preparations that help preserve the freshness of cut flowers are also useful for roses; small amounts of sugar and aspirin also work well. Approximately 1 teaspoon of sugar and 1 aspirin tablet are required per 1 liter of water.

It is advisable to change the water in the vessel every day and cut the stems under water, which significantly prolongs the life of any cut flowers, including roses.

Composing bouquets of roses, you can emphasize their splendor successful combination with other colors. Airy gypsophila with small delicate light flowers will shade the perfect shape of tea hybrid roses. Slender delphinium inflorescences, especially blue and lilac colors, look very impressive along with deep shades. For arranging centifolia roses, bright green graceful asparagus is suitable, focusing on their huge dazzling flowers.

The captivating beauty of miniature roses, most of which are devoid of fragrance, is enhanced by the fragrance of a modest lavender added to the bouquet. In a word, all the most interesting bouquets are obtained from correctly selected in color and shape. different types roses.

AT summer time you can and should prune roses. If they are pruned to form and improve the bush, this is a sanitary procedure. But another thing is pruning. rose bushes in the summer after flowering.

About caring for roses after flowering in summer

After the end of the first abundant flowering of a rose in the summer season, she needs special care. It helps subsequently to release new shoots again, on which buds will appear. The flower may bloom again in autumn.

How to prune roses after flowering in summer so that they bloom again? After the buds have faded, wilted flowers are removed, and too long stems are shortened to give the bush a harmonious shape.

Note! There are non-repairable roses that bloom only once a season, so pruning them will not produce new buds.

Also during the summer without fail weeding is carried out in flower beds with rose bushes, soil mulching, watering and top dressing. If necessary, the bushes are sprayed with fungicides to protect against insects and diseases.

With regular soil mulching weed grass practically does not appear. To feed the bushes, potash fertilizers are scattered next to them. You can buy ready-made or use chicken manure.

If the weather is dry and long time there was no precipitation, then rose bushes should be watered often. After watering, the soil is mulched. This will prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil. As mulch, use tree bark, wood chips or other organic materials. The mulch is laid out in a layer of 10 cm. The place near the bush with a diameter of 10 cm is not covered.

rose pruning

Why are roses pruned?

Depending on the height of the rose bushes, the varieties of the group to which they belong, the seasons are used various ways pruning.

The first spring removal of branches from rose bushes is carried out to form the appearance of the bush, in order to remove excess shoots that prevent the normal growth of other stems, as well as to remove damaged ones. This is primarily for decorative purposes.

Pruning in autumn prepares the bush for entry into winter, which contributes to:

• acceleration of the process of formation of new stems;
• strengthening the development of the root system;
• plant getting more nutrients;
• reduce the risk of infection.

Note! Proper pruning of the stems of rose bushes is the key to the appearance of updated shoots and the formation of new buds. Without having certain knowledge of such a procedure, you can cause irreparable harm to the plant.

Do roses need to be cut off faded buds? Such removal is carried out, first of all, in order to preserve the attractive appearance of the bush, and also contributes to the continuation of flowering. After that, the rose directs its strength to the process of throwing out new shoots with buds. This procedure is carried out until the moment when the plant begins to prepare for winter, and the branches harden.

More about pruning roses after flowering

When starting to remove wilted buds, you need to wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp spikes. The cut is carried out with a sharp pruner.

How to prune roses after flowering in summer? Cut off those flowers in which the petals have become weak and have begun to crumble. At this time, the blossoming buds begin to wither and bend down to the ground. At the same time, stems growing in the wrong direction can be removed. Extra shoots are removed to ensure penetration into the bush sunlight and air.

Before determining the place of the cut, carefully examine the leaves. They are united on the handle in groups of several pieces. The correct cut is made over a sheet, which consists of at least 5 small sheets. In doing so, it should be taken into account that new escape will grow in the direction in which the leaf grows.

Note! When cutting a shoot over a cutting consisting of 3 leaves, a non-flowering shoot may grow. The appearance of new flowers on them is possible only for the next season.

How to prune faded rose buds for re-blooming

Pruning roses in July after flowering is carried out by removing the buds along with the branch. And you should pay attention to the growth point - near the place where the stalk connects to the leaf. Subsequently, a shoot begins to grow from it again, on which a new bud will be formed. You need to take into account the age of the bushes. Run away from annual plants cut about half.

Important! The branch should be cut only above the growing point.

The following year, each pruned branch will give 2-3 shoots. Biennials are shortened by 2-3 eyes from the beginning of the base, and annuals are shortened directly above the upper bud, located under the faded bud.

In adult plants (over 3 years of age), all dead and weak branches, as well as small shoots formed after pruning in the previous year, are completely removed.

If you have to trim a large number of bushes, then it is not necessary to carefully determine the place of the cut. It is enough to remove the branch at a distance of about 5-8 mm above the selected leaf, since the growth points are located almost next to the leaves.

Pruning allows roses to be enjoyed longer during the flowering season. If faded roses are not cut off, then rose hips and seeds begin to form from them.

Many believe that the process of cutting a branch must be carried out at an angle of 45 °, since with a perpendicular cut, a fungal infection may begin in the plant due to moisture accumulating in this place, and from an inclined one, water will roll faster.

Note! To protect injured places from possible damage, they can be treated with PVA glue.

You should not cut off a wilted bud by pinching the pedicel. After the procedure carried out in this way, a weakened shoot will appear.

Pruning roses with large buds has some differences from that of bushes of other varieties. They cut off the stem on which the flower formed to a certain place, and in spray multi-flowered roses and tea roses, after they have faded, the entire part of the branch above the first leaf is completely removed. This procedure is carried out in the same way for ground cover varieties.

Important! After the second flowering of the rose in autumn, pruning is undesirable. It is better if the plant is at rest and can prepare for winter time.

Pruning hybrid tea varieties

The branches of the bushes of hybrid tea roses are cut in such a way that a ball shape is formed. Since the buds are formed on the shoots formed in the current year, most of them are removed. Procedure schemes for such varieties use the following:

• on bushes one- and two-year-olds leave 2-4 buds, retreating 15 cm from the soil level,
• on adults - 4-6 buds at a distance of approximately 20 cm, and about 2-4 buds are left on the side shoots.

Pruning a room rose

Some believe that indoor rose after flowering it no longer forms buds, but this is not the case. At proper care they will reappear.

Branches are pruned in early spring. The second time the procedure is carried out after complete flowering, while 3 live buds are left on the branches. Also, shoots growing inside the bush are removed from the rose in a pot, and those on which wilted buds remain.

Pruning scheme for climbing varieties

Buds in climbing plants are formed only on last year's shoots. After flowering, cutting of old branches is carried out only if there are new shoots.

The formation of climbing bushes is carried out in a horizontal direction. Flowers and young branches appear along such branches in summer. Pruning after flowering is carried out in late summer - early autumn. Old lashes are cut off, leaving 30-40 cm from the base.

Rose pruning scheme

Further care

Like other plants, it needs timely watering. Perfect option- installation of automatic irrigation system. Specialists set it up in such a way that water flows under each bush periodically and in doses. This greatly simplifies the care of the flower garden. But since this is often not possible, it is necessary to water manually. It is advisable to moisten only the soil under the bush, and not the entire plant. At the same time, for one bush it is enough to add 5-15 liters of water.

Important! Water for irrigation should be preheated in the sun. Watering is carried out from 1 to 3 times a week. Their number is determined by the state of the soil in the flower beds.

Watering is carried out in the evening or early in the morning. Do not water in the midday heat. This can adversely affect the development of the plant: burns can form on tender leaves.

To ensure violent flowering, do not forget about fertilizers. Use granular top dressing. They are simply scattered near the plant. This is done 3-4 times a season. You can also use soluble fertilizers. They are first lowered into the water, and then poured into the ground next to the bush.

Subject to all the rules for summer pruning of roses, their abundant and lush flowering is stimulated. And regular care and getting rid of excess shoots will help protect them from insect pests and diseases.

How to prune roses correctly depends on their type. Don't forget to take care of quality tool for work.

Goals and timing of rose pruning

Roses in horticulture are commonly referred to as cultural forms of plants belonging to the genus rose hips of the rose family. With all the variety of types and varieties of roses, there are several general principles their cuts.

Pruning is one of the most important agricultural activities. Timely pruning of roses is the key to the longevity of the bush, its decorative effect, good and long flowering.

To anyone who is just starting to master the features of pruning roses, this process in many ways will seem simply incomprehensible. And it’s not even about the variety of species and varieties that require individual approach, and in in large numbers trim types. Nevertheless, it is possible to single out the main tasks of pruning roses, on the basis of which to decide on the methods of its implementation.

So, pruning roses has the following goals:

• bush rejuvenation. By removing old shoots, the plant can spend all its strength on the formation of large beautiful buds;
• giving the bush the most decorative look. By cutting off excess and unproductive shoots, you can give the bush the desired shape;
• lush and long flowering. Buds are formed only on strong young shoots;
• creation optimal conditions for wintering plants;
• reducing the risk of developing fungal diseases. The fact is that good ventilation, provided by removing excess branches inside the bush, prevents the occurrence of diseases;
• obtaining excellent specimens for cutting.

The basic rules for pruning roses are as follows:

• pruning is carried out to healthy wood;
• pruning is carried out on a kidney located on the outside of the shoot;
• if, after pruning, 2–3 shoots develop from one bud, then only one should be left, the rest should be removed;
• it is necessary to remove all diseased, thin, dead, weak, intersecting shoots to healthy wood or to soil level;
• so many shoots should be left so that there is normal air exchange and good illumination of the bush, this helps prevent the development of fungal diseases.

Pruning roses is a simple operation, but requires knowledge.

The shoots are cut with a sharp pruner 5-6 mm above the developed bud and at an angle of 45 °. The cut surface must be smooth, without cracks or burrs. It must be covered with garden pitch.

In the first summer after planting Special attention give to the formation of bushes. At this time, when pruning roses, all small, growing inward, thickening shoots, as well as those growing from the place of grafting or the root collar (in own-rooted ones) are cut into a ring, strongly growing ones are pinched. In July, the forming prunings are finished so as not to cause the growth of new shoots, which, before they have time to ripen, freeze slightly and often cause roses to be affected by diseases. In grafted roses, wild shoots are systematically cut to the ground, which in the first summer is especially abundant, with age it becomes less. In order not to weaken the plants, emerging buds can be removed.

In later years summer pruning consists in shortening individual too violently growing shoots, especially in bushes of large-flowered roses and crowns of standard roses. However, the main task of summer pruning is to encourage the plant to bloom again. In order for the bush to give the maximum number of flowers that a particular variety can give, its correct summer pruning is necessary. You cannot simply remove a faded rose flower with a simple pinch, i.e. tore off one flower and that's it - this is a big mistake, because a new shoot with a flower will appear very high. It will be elongated, thin and will easily bend, i.e. bend. It is necessary to remove the flower before the petals completely fall off, i.e. once appearance lost its charm. It is necessary to cut off the flower below, then the new shoot in this place will be strong and hold tight (when cutting the flower, leave a 6-8 mm stump above the eye). Probably, disputes between gardeners about the need for pruning will never stop, because someone considers it a panacea for all ills, and someone perceives it as an act of vandalism over the very nature of the tree. However, years of experience show that pruning is necessary in many cases, promoting more vigorous growth and abundant flowering and fruiting, helping in the prevention and treatment of diseases and eliminating pests, and in addition, it prolongs the age garden plants allowing them to delight us with their fragrant fruits or beautiful flowers much longer.

At the same time, one should not start pruning plants thoughtlessly, because each species or even variety requires an individual approach: someone needs a minimum of intervention, and someone is unable to give a bountiful harvest without strong pruning in the spring.

However, remember: even observing the rules for pruning roses and performing this procedure in a timely manner, without proper care for the plant, it still will not bloom as it should. So take care of your garden, take care of the crops, and they will surely thank you with lush flowers and delicious fruits.

Pruning roses to form a bush

The bush is formed in the first summer after planting. Small shoots growing inward, and shoots coming from the root collar or grafting site, are cut into a ring. Too long or intensively growing shoots are pinched. In June, the formation of a bush when pruning roses is completed. Otherwise, the rose will produce new shoots that will not have time to mature before winter.

Removal of wild growth. Most often, roses are propagated by grafting: a varietal form of a rose is grafted to a wild stock. Later, wild shoots grow from the grafting site. Their leaves are smaller, the stems are lighter, they have more thorns. Part of the nutrients intended for the cultivated plant is spent on wild shoots. Therefore, such shoots must be immediately disposed of, preventing them from growing. Wild shoots are cut out in May. The earth is raked from the root neck of the bush to expose the place where the shoot grows. The sprout is cut at the base with sharply sharpened scissors or a knife. Together with the shoot, a little bark is removed. Cutting wild shoots near the surface of the soil is useless. Moreover, it will only increase their growth.

Pruning by timing is divided into spring, summer and autumn.

Pruning rose bushes in spring (with video)

After pruning, the roses are sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate at the rate of 100 g per 1 liter of water, then the bushes are spudded and covered with a film or lutrasil to create a shadow.

If spring night frosts are no longer expected, then the shelter is removed from the roses and unraveled.

Spring pruning is the main one, since the formation of a rose bush and its subsequent development are directly dependent on it. Every year the pruning time may be different due to instability weather conditions in central Russia. But in any case, it must be done on time. If the rose was cut too early, then during the first warm days the buds will begin to swell and grow, but with repeated frosts, which also often happens in the middle lane, they die; if pruned late, the bush will spend too much energy on the formation of new shoots, which will subsequently be removed.

Pruning of rose bushes in the spring is carried out immediately after the removal of the shelter and the clearing of the bush. Roses are pruned in the spring in March - April. It is advisable to wait for the awakening of the kidneys. Then it will be clear which stems are damaged by frost, and which endured the winter normally.

The rose is cut off, thereby creating conditions for the beginning of the formation of a bush, which is typical for this garden group, and as much as possible lush flowering.

The stems are shortened to a height of 20–25 cm. The exception is curly and park species: only old shoots are cut from them.

The growth buds of roses are located in the axils of the leaves. The cut is made as close to the kidney as possible, but so as not to damage it. The cut is made with a sharp pruner at an angle of 45° with an inclination from the kidney and at a distance not exceeding 0.5 cm from it. The bud should be on the outside of the branch.

The shoot is cut to healthy tissue. Determining the state of the branch is simple: if the core is dark, brown, then the tissues are damaged. The healthy core of the branch is painted white or greenish-white.

Sometimes several sprouts develop from strong buds at once. Of these, only one shoot is left, and all the rest are removed as soon as possible.

All varieties of roses need regular sanitary pruning. Broken, dry, diseased and damaged branches, as well as thin and weak growths are cut to the level of the soil or to a healthy shoot.

To facilitate the care of a rose, before planting a bush, you need to check if there are any wild shoots on it. The discovered sprouts are cut off with a sharp knife or scissors at the base, capturing a little bark.

Intersecting branches are cut so that one of them is below the point of intersection.

The rose bush should not be thickened. So many shoots are left on it to ensure normal air exchange and sufficient illumination.

After pruning young roses, the soil under them is mulched with well-rotted manure or compost.

The video "Pruning rose bushes in spring" shows how this procedure is performed:

Proper pruning of roses in summer

To maintain the decorativeness of the rose during the summer, sanitary pruning is carried out. Summer (sanitary) pruning is carried out from the beginning of the first flowering until the autumn. At the same time, flowers that have lost their attractive appearance are removed. No need to wait until all the petals have completely fallen off: this increases the risk of disease.

As you can see in the photo, during the summer pruning of roses, the flowers are cut off as soon as the petals begin to wilt:

Thus, they provide repeated flowering, cut off diseased, yellowed foliage and sluggish shoots.

Proper pruning of roses in the summer allows you to ensure continuous flowering, as well as prevent the consumption of nutrients for the formation of seeds. The cut is made on the 1st strong kidney. If you simply cut off a flower with a pedicel, buds will awaken on the remaining weak part of the stem. They will grow stunted thin shoots.

At the end of summer, the inflorescences cease to be removed. Otherwise, shoots will still actively form on the bush. They will not have time to ripen by winter and will die from frost.

In order to prevent the development of diseases and pests, shoots that are too thick and growing inside the bush are removed.

The only exception is the small-flowered climbing rose of the Rambler subgroup, which blooms once a year, which is cut off immediately after flowering so that replacement shoots appear that can bloom in a year.

Watch a video of pruning roses in the summer to better understand how this agricultural technique is performed:

Rules for pruning roses in autumn (with video)

Autumn pruning of roses is carried out in November. In order not to cause intensive growth of shoots, pruning should be minimal. Usually limited to the removal of flowers and fruits damaged by frost. According to the rules for pruning roses in autumn, the shoots of standard plants are cut off by 1/3, then the crops are covered for the winter. In areas with strong winds, it is advisable to cut stems that are too long by 15–30 cm so that the wind does not shake and damage them.

Autumn pruning is mostly associated with the process of preparing the rose for the winter period and the implementation of the shelter. Before sheltering a plant for wintering, after a negative daytime temperature has been established, it is recommended to remove all flowers, foliage, immature, inferior, diseased and broken shoots. Pruning of the main shoots is carried out in accordance with the garden group of roses. All cut parts are removed from the site and burned, as they can become a source of infection.

Here you can find a video of pruning roses in the fall to prepare plants for winter:

Pruning species and miniature roses

Pruning species (wild) and old roses. A species rose eventually grows into a dense, strong bush. Most of these roses do not really need pruning, and they are not recommended to be touched for about 4 years, so that the bush can build up a powerful base.

Long (light) pruning is necessary if the bush grows too large, if it comes into contact with neighboring bushes and damages its shoots, if some branches have begun to die off. First of all, the oldest shoots that are at least 4 years old, located near the ground, need to be pruned in order to stimulate the young, giving abundant flowering growth. The surviving shoots of remontant varieties must be shortened by about a third (Fig. 60), in single-flowering plants, shoots should not be cut at all, since their flower bud is mainly laid precisely at the top of the bush.

Pruning roses patio and miniature. The patio rose, as well as the real miniature rose, are smaller versions of the regular large-flowered and multi-flowered roses.

When planting a miniature rose, only the top and deformed shoots are cut off. In subsequent seasons, it is cut in the same way as hybrid tea.

Pruning ground cover and climbing roses

Pruning a ground cover rose. In the spring, sanitary pruning is carried out, and the ends of the shoots are cut into 2–3 buds.

In autumn pruning ground cover rose does not need, only diseased, damaged branches that have not matured are cut out, as well as shoots and branches that have lost their decorative effect, and all the foliage remaining on the bush. Once every 5–6 years, for the purpose of rejuvenation, the bush is cut short, by 5–7 buds.

Curly roses. In roses that bloom several times during the summer, flowers appear on both old and annual shoots. Withered inflorescences are also removed from plants, side shoots are cut into 2–4 eyes. Rejuvenating and thinning pruning is carried out as needed.

In roses that bloom once a summer, flowers appear on perennial shoots. Such plants need regular rejuvenating pruning and thinning. Climbing roses are pruned immediately after flowering, so that the young shoots have time to ripen before the onset of frost.

In varieties with decorative fruits, wilted flowers are not cut.

wild roses. Practically do not require pruning, with the exception of sanitary. If a wild roses grown as a bush, pruning is carried out accordingly.

Cascading roses. They only need thinning.

Pruning spray, flower bed and repair roses

Bush roses. Varieties that bloom once are not pruned, but only thinned out. Pruning impairs their flowering.

Constantly flowering varieties are pruned. Strong shoots are shortened only slightly, weak ones are cut into 3-4 buds. Every 3-5 years, the bush is thinned out and anti-aging pruning is carried out. When pruning spray roses, the branches growing inside the bush are removed. Old unproductive shoots are cut off near the ground.

Flower bed roses. Weakly growing varieties are cut into 3-4 buds (10-15 cm) to get strong stems.

Medium-growing varieties are cut into 4–6 buds (15–25 cm).

Strong-growing varieties are cut into 8 buds. To rejuvenate the bush, pruning is carried out in the same way as pruning low-growing varieties.

Repair roses. Roses of these varieties are pruned to stimulate the formation of strong basal shoots. Another goal is to form a spherical bush. Its center should be open, and the peripheral stems should be evenly spaced.

Flowers of such roses appear on the growth of the current year. Therefore, they need annual moderate to heavy pruning. Thick stems are cut to 4-6 buds (about 20 cm from the ground). The remaining stems are shortened to 2-4 buds (about 15 cm from the ground). In an adult plant, 2-3 stems are completely removed annually to rejuvenate the bush.

Proper pruning of standard roses

Pruning of standard roses is carried out similarly to that of spray roses, forming a symmetrical crown shape. Shoots that thicken the crown are especially carefully cut off, since a lot of shoots do not contribute to an abundance of flowering.

For standard roses, depending on the garden groups, heavy or light pruning is used. Strong pruning is used for crowns of hybrid tea, floribunda, grand diflora, polyanthus and miniature roses, and light pruning is used for climbing and ground cover roses.

Pruning of climbing boles is carried out by strongly cleaning the crown. Leave a few young strong branches, pruning them to a powerful outer bud.

Their crown should be compact. Drooping varieties are thinned out. The rest are moderately pruned.

In the spring, after planting, the stem crown is cut short with an indent of 10–15 cm from the base of the bush. In subsequent seasons, pruning will depend on the growth potential of the grafted rose, on its group and on general condition plants after overwintering. If the rose survived this period well, it is pruned, leaving 2-3 more buds than the same varieties of spray roses. If the plant did not survive the winter well, it is cut shorter, by 5–7 buds.

In summer, a hybrid tea rose, a floribunda rose, and a miniature rose grafted onto a trunk form a symmetrical crown due to pinching of shoots by 2–3 buds.

Pruning hybrid tea and polyanthus roses

Hybrid tea rose as a result of the obligatory spring pruning develops flower shoots that will bloom in the same year. In the year of planting, the plant is cut short, by 2-3 buds.

Subsequently, when pruning hybrid tea roses, it is necessary to take into account the varietal specifics:

• a vigorous variety needs long (light) pruning because short pruning often results in blind (non-blooming) shoots. With it, 5–7 buds are left on the shoot;
• when pruning other varieties, medium (moderate) pruning is used. Each one-year-old shoot is cut to 3-5 buds; a strong mature 2-4-year-old shoot has 2-3 buds, depending on the intensity of growth.

A properly formed bush has a maximum of 5 strong shoots, all the rest are removed. The most valuable is the young shoot growing from the base of the bush. It should be carefully preserved, since at its expense the bush is rejuvenated. During the formation of the shoot, a young root begins to sprout. The root system is growing. If such a shoot is removed, the root will not be able to form. Autumn pruning is carried out at a height of 20–30 cm from the base of the bush, leaving 5–7 buds.

Saplings with two or more shoots are pruned in the spring immediately after planting, keeping 2-3 buds each, weak shoots are cut more strongly. Thanks to this, flowers will appear in the first year. I also shorten the roots to about 30 cm (if they were cut back in the nursery, just refresh the cuts). If a rose is planted in the fall, then the roots are shortened to the same indicators, and the shoots are slightly shortened.

Further pruning is associated with the varietal affiliation of flowers. So, varieties that are characterized by active growth are pruned weakly, since otherwise you can get "blind" shoots, that is, shoots that do not give flowers. Other varieties respond well to moderate pruning.

The most valuable are the shoots that appeared from the root zone, as they help to rejuvenate the bush and increase the mass of the root system. If they are cut off, a new root will not develop either.

To get high-quality cut material, hybrid tea roses are cut into 2-3 buds.

Polyanthus roses. When planting polyanthus roses, all weak shoots are cut off, and strong ones are shortened by about 4 buds. Varieties characterized by low height and weak growth are subjected to heavy pruning in the spring, because thanks to this they give a lot of shoots that bloom in the same summer.

Actively growing varieties for early flowering are lightly pruned in the year of planting. Next spring, weak shoots are cut, strong ones are shortened to a third of their length, and growths on them are 3 buds. Further care involves cutting out all old, weak and thickening shoots, pruning strong shoots also by a third of their length.

Proper pruning of a floribunda rose

In the first season after planting, a strong pruning of floribunda roses is carried out by 3-4 buds. Subsequently, the most optimal pruning for a floribunda group rose is a mixed spring pruning, during which:

• lightly cut some shoots to provoke early flowering others, for 5-7 kidneys;
• strongly cut off other shoots to stimulate the growth process of renewed basal shoots and get a displaced late flowering, by 2-3 buds.

A properly formed bush has no more than five strong shoots, all the rest are subject to mandatory removal. Autumn pruning is important to produce at a height of 30-35 cm from the base of the bush.

Weak pruning does not allow to preserve the decorativeness of the plant, although it contributes to early flowering, strong pruning depletes the bush, due to which the buds are tied at a later date, and moderate pruning does not provide constant flowering. Therefore, they resort to combined pruning, in which some of the shoots are pruned strongly, while others are weakly pruned. This will allow the bush to keep its shape and bloom earlier.

At further care be sure to cut out all the shoots directed deep into the bush, cut off annual shoots by a third, cut off the lateral growth on the shoots of the second year of life, remove old shoots if young growth is enough.

Proper pruning of a climbing rose (with video)

Subgroup rambler (real climbing, small-flowered climbing). This group includes roses with long (up to 3–4 m) elastic shoots and miniature flowers in large inflorescences. They bloom in June - early July, once, for 30-35 days along the entire length of the shoot that survived the winter.

In the spring of next year, for the correct pruning of climbing roses, it will be possible to slightly shorten the tops of the shoots, however, the main pruning falls on the period after the buds have faded. In the process, all faded shoots are completely removed. If this was not done in the summer, they need to be cut in the spring. With the right and complete care new shoots are formed on the bush, which will bloom this year.

As shown in the video of pruning climbing roses, in the first year after planting, the bush is cut to 35–40 cm, which forms great amount root shoots:

Flowering in the first year is absent. In all subsequent years, pruning is performed in the same way. In the spring, only sanitary pruning is recommended.

The main pruning of this species is done immediately after flowering is completed, in summer period. The rose of this group blooms on last year's shoots, so those that have faded are cut off at the base of the bush into a ring. At the same time, many replacement shoots are formed, but only 5-10 of them are required to form a bush, the rest must be removed.

Look at the photo - when pruning climbing roses in the fall, only the very top with underdeveloped buds is removed and then sanitary molding is carried out:

This is done for the reason that the climbing rose blooms on last year's shoot, which must be preserved.

Rules for pruning a park rose

Roses of this species need annual formative and sanitary pruning. Weak pruning of park roses activates the appearance of new shoots, contributing to the rejuvenation of the bush and the emergence of abundant long flowering. Due to the development of basal shoots, the mass of roots also increases, which positively affects the vital activity of the whole plant.

In the first two years, it is necessary to create a strong skeleton of the bush, for which all weak shoots, faded flowers, etc. are cut out. In autumn, young shoots are cut to 5 cm, which will make it easier for them to cope with wintering.

Types of park roses that bloom once in the middle of the season are pruned in the spring, removing up to a third of the length of the basal shoots, because due to the abundant flowering, the branches often break off under their own weight. In autumn, strongly grown shoots are also pruned so that they do not break during strong wind or heavy snowfall.

Pruning other types of roses

Climer subgroup (climbing, climbing large-flowered rose). The flowers of this group reach 2–3 m in height, they have large flowers collected in small inflorescences. It blooms profusely and for a long time, some varieties bloom repeatedly.

The flower is formed on the shoot of the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th order, that is, it blooms for 4 or more years. At the same time, flowering becomes weaker year after year, therefore, when growing roses of this group, it is required to leave 2–4 summer shoots.

Sanitary pruning is carried out in the spring. If possible, some lashes are formed horizontally or at an angle (this technique helps to avoid exposing the bottom of the bush).

During the summer, after the removal of flowers that have lost their decorative effect, the shoot is shortened by 3–4 buds, which stimulates re-blooming.

During the autumn, only the top is shortened at the shoot, and rejuvenating pruning is carried out at the old bush. It is forbidden to cut all shoots: low pruning contributes to a return to the bush form, since most of varieties of this group is one of the climbing varieties of spray roses, and the plant may also stop blooming.

Semi-climbing and spray roses. Before planting, the tops of the shoots and roots are shortened, and unviable growth is also removed. The next year, in the spring, weak shoots are completely cut out, and strong ones are reduced by a third of their length.

Pruning shrub rose, scrub rose and English rose. Such a rose can only bloom on a two-year-old or more mature shoot. In the spring, it is necessary to carry out sanitary pruning and make the shoots shorter by 3-4 buds, and also remove the brushes with the fruits of the last season, so that the bush can bloom earlier.

In autumn, you should also remove all thickened, old, sluggish, deformed, diseased shoots at the base of the bush on a ring so that they cannot grow back. After pruning, 3–7 stems will remain, half of which must be shortened by 2 times. Side shoots from all surviving stems are subject to removal, and tops are cut into 3–5 buds. In the end, you will get a bush with shoots of various lengths.

During the spring period, it should grow and continue its flowering from spring to autumn. They rejuvenate the park rose with a strong pruning to the base of the bush, save 3-4 buds to provoke the growth of "sleeping buds".

Rose pruning tools

Many growers don't like to prune roses because they have to deal with thorny stems. However, if pruned correctly, the development of the plant will improve, it will become more abundant and more beautiful to bloom. In young seedlings, pruning improves the formation of the root system, which begins to develop faster.

Also, due to pruning, young shoots appear and vegetate more actively. Removing dry and old parts of the bushes allows you to ensure proper distribution nutrients by plant. Pruning also contributes to the flow to all parts of the bush fresh air, which helps prevent the development of diseases, in particular black rot.

This operation requires a lot of time, in addition, it requires some practice and special tools.

To prune roses, first of all, you need to arm yourself with secateurs and gloves to help avoid damaging your hands. In order to get to hard-to-reach stems, as well as to get rid of faded buds from climbing roses, use a long-handled lopper.

All tools should be kept clean and thoroughly washed and dried after each cut. It is also recommended to wash the tools after cutting each individual bush: in this case, the spread of the disease can be prevented if one of them was infected.

How to prune roses in spring, summer and autumn?

Before starting the operation, you need to assess the condition of the bush and decide which pruning method to choose, because the latter depends on the type of rose and the goals for which this manipulation is carried out. So, autumn pruning is carried out more rigidly, as a result of which the bush can be shortened to 40 cm in height. Spring pruning is carried out in order to ensure the penetration of fresh air and sun rays to stems and leaves.

It is recommended that cuts be made at an angle of 45°, and they should be neat, without torn or chewed edges. When pruning, dry, broken and affected parts of the bushes, as well as thin and weak shoots, should be removed. If the seedlings have whitened and thin shoots after storage, they must also be cut off, otherwise the plant will die. On grafted roses, it is necessary to cut off the shoots that appear below the rootstock, since otherwise the cultivated part of the plant can die.

After trimming, the cut site should be treated with an antiseptic, which will help prevent possible infection. As such an antiseptic, it is permissible to use a solution of brilliant green.

Seven types of pruning roses

There are seven types of rose pruning, which depend on the time they are held and the type of crop.

1. Basic (shaping) pruning. Carried out in the spring. It pursues the following goals: stimulation of the growth of new shoots from the renewal buds; regulation of flowering time; guarantee of abundant and lush flowering throughout the growing season of the plant; maintaining the shape of the bush, which is characteristic of a garden rose. This pruning is carried out taking into account biological features groups and varieties of roses.

2. Sanitary pruning. Carried out in order to form a healthy strong bush with a lush and long flowering as well as to prevent the occurrence of diseases and pests. This type of pruning is performed as needed throughout the growing season (in spring, summer and autumn periods), it is the same for all groups. It implies the following stages: removal of old flowers that have lost their attractiveness and decorative effect, thereby ensuring their subsequent flowering; pruning of diseased yellowed foliage in order to prevent further development diseases and pests; pruning interfering with each other shoots; removal of shoots that thicken the crown and grow inside the bush, thereby providing excessive ventilation and direct sunlight access to all foliage and buds; spring pruning of all frozen, dry, brown, diseased shoots to a healthy place, autumn pruning of unripened and weak shoots; in case the rose is grafted, the shoots are removed at the very base.

3. Anti-aging pruning. It is carried out in order to rejuvenate the bush, as well as to stimulate the growth of young abundantly flowering growth and to form replacement shoots, which will later become the skeleton of the bush. It is applicable to all types of roses if the plant has slowed down its growth rate, has begun to bloom less abundantly, or has become bare at the bottom. Pruning is carried out on shoots older than 4 years to form strong young shoots. During the procedure, the old coarsened shoots are removed completely in the spring or immediately after flowering (specific, old and park roses), or cut into 3-4 buds from the bottom of the bush and removed immediately after the formation of replacement shoots.

4. Long pruning. When using long pruning, it is customary to leave at least two-thirds of the stem, in other words, the shoots that have survived after lightening the bush are subjected to slight shortening. This method is widely used in the implementation of pruning species, old, park and English roses, as well as vigorous varieties of tea-hybrid group. If it is necessary to induce earlier flowering of individual shoots, light pruning is applied among other groups. With regular use of long pruning, the bush is very stretched and blooms poorly, although it blooms earlier than it should. For this reason, you can not limit yourself to only light pruning for several years in a row.

Long pruning is used when planting seedlings and after cleaning the winter shelter. Suitable for hybrid tea and garden roses.

5. Moderate pruning. By moderate is meant pruning at about half the height, at which shoots are left at the level of the 4-5th bud from the base of the bush. A weakened shoot is cut short or removed completely. Moderate pruning is used for any group of roses, with the exception of climbing, specific, old, English and park rose. In addition, with the help of medium pruning, a bush is formed.

6. Short cut. When performing short pruning, the shoot is cut at the level of the first three buds from the base of the bush, as a result, a shoot 15–20 cm high remains.

It is used during spring pruning of patio roses, adult hybrid tea roses, miniature roses, and rambler climbing roses in the year following planting and as a rejuvenating pruning method for all other rose groups.

Short pruning is carried out during spring planting seedlings. It is suitable for climbing roses, if you need to stimulate the growth of new shoots so that they bloom the next year.

7. Combined pruning use, if necessary, to form bushes of some varieties of roses (primarily the type of floribunda). Thanks to this type of pruning, the bush during the flowering period looks more elegant.

Whatever type of rose pruning you perform (preventive, thinning, shaping or rejuvenating), you must do it in accordance with certain rules so as not to harm the plants. For each season, the requirements for pruning roses vary slightly, but there are also general provisions which must be strictly observed. You will learn about the main ones below.

When is it better to prune roses and types of spring pruning (with photo)

Pruning is one of the most important agricultural practices for growing roses. The decorativeness of plants, the splendor of their flowering, the intensity of damage by pests and diseases, and, finally, longevity depend on pruning.

For each group, there are specific rules for pruning roses, but there are also general provisions that are inherent in all groups to one degree or another.

When is the best time to prune roses and how to do it correctly? In spring, roses are pruned for flowering, in summer - for re-blooming and maintaining the shape of the bush. Autumn pruning of roses is performed for winter shelter.

There are four types of spring pruning roses: preventive, thinning, shaping and rejuvenating.

Preventive pruning is done in early spring to eliminate fungal diseases.

Spring. After removing the shelter, when the buds swelling on the shoots are clearly visible, the bushes are thinned out. It consists in removing dying and unnecessary branches and shoots that are not important for flowering. As a result of the removal of excess shoots, the plant large quantity nutrients will be sent to those shoots that can use them with great effect for flowering.

At the same time, the remaining shoots are shortened in order to awaken the lower buds to growth, which ensure flowering. In this case, we give the plant the opportunity to direct nutrients to the development of flowers to achieve the highest quality.

Sections must be immediately covered with garden pitch, then moisture will not linger on them, and the risk of various infections penetrating through fresh wounds will decrease.

How to prune roses correctly so as not to damage the bushes? When working, avoid flattening and injuring the tissues of the plant, do not allow the bark to break.

There are three types of shaping pruning: strong, medium and weak. With strong pruning, 1-2 well-developed buds are left on the shoot, with medium pruning - 3-6, with weak pruning, only the tops of the shoots are removed.

As a rule, strong pruning is used for polyanthus and miniature roses, medium pruning for hybrid tea, floribunda and grandiflora groups, weak pruning for park and climbing roses.

Look at the photo - when pruning roses in spring, it is important to observe the shape of the bush and the position of the buds from which new shoots will come:

The kidney should look outward, then the bush will be beautiful and not thickened in the center, it will hurt less, because it is well lit by the sun and blown by the breeze.

Remember, dry, damaged and thin branches are removed first, leaving only a few good, strong shoots. They are shortened to the 3rd, 4th or 5th kidney. The result should be stems from 10 to 25 cm tall.

Most of the varieties grown by gardeners need short pruning. They endure heavy pruning without any damage to their livelihoods.

Hybrid tea varieties are subjected to short pruning - small-flowered and large-flowered polyanthus and undersized varieties other groups.

Medium and less short pruning is enough remontant varieties(with the exception of undersized ones, which are also cut short) and some vigorous varieties of hybrid tea and other groups.

When carrying out spring pruning of roses of all varieties, thinning of the bushes is mandatory. At the same time, weak, deformed (unnaturally curved), broken, dying shoots, as well as those with signs of damage, are completely removed. They are cut off at the very base, leaving no stumps. Damaged stems are shortened to healthy tissue (with a white core).

Immediately after spring pruning, preventive spraying is carried out from harmful organisms if the kidneys are dormant, with copper or iron sulphate (100-150gna 10l of water), if a green cone has formed (the kidneys have started to grow) - with 1% Bordeaux liquid or its substitutes ("Abiga-Peak", "Oksihom", "Oxychloride copper, etc.).

Video "Pruning roses in summer" will help you better understand the process technology:

Cut roses for summer pruning

Summer. All roses tend to develop many extra weak shoots. Among them there are "blind" who do not carry a flower. Leaving all the shoots on the bush in summer is useless and even harmful, as they lead to excessive thickening of the bush. It is necessary at the beginning of summer to cut into a ring (to the base) shoots directed inside the bush, underdeveloped and "blind".

If the so-called blind shoot is cut off above the nearest leaf, where there is a healthy eye, a new shoot capable of flowering will later grow from it.

cut roses:

• AT open field: Do not cut more than two flowers from one bush at the same time, so as not to weaken the plant. The flowering of bushes and the quality of flowers directly depend on how correctly the cut is made. It is impossible to cut more than two flowers from a bush at the same time. At the base of the peduncle, 2-4 knots must be left and the cut should be made over a well-developed bud, looking outward. Then you can hope for a quick resumption of growth and re-flowering.
• You can not cut flowers from young one-year bushes, as well as from weak or diseased plants.
• To keep cut roses longer in the vase, it is better to cut them early in the morning or in the evening; roses cut during the day fade faster.
• You need to cut the stems with a sharp secateurs obliquely; more water enters the stem with an oblique cut, which helps to prolong their life in the cut.
• It is necessary to cut roses in summer in colored buds; in spring and summer, buds with bent outer petals are cut off (almost in half-opening).
• Varieties of roses with a goblet-shaped flower are cut when the petals are slightly opened, the color has already appeared, but the bud is still hard.
• Gustomahrovye varieties are cut when the buds are almost ready to bloom, and the petals are slightly unfolded; if they are cut earlier, they bloom poorly in water, lose their color (turn blue) and quickly disappear.
• Cut roses are very sensitive to the purity of the water. Bacteria and fungi contained in it clog the vessels in the stems and lead to a loss of quality. Water can be disinfected citric acid(0.5 g per 1 liter).
• For good preservation of roses in a vase, the lower part of the stems is at least 10 cm clear of leaves. It is not recommended to remove spikes - this reduces the quality of flowers, shortens their life.
• Acidifying the water with citric acid will extend the life of the roses in the vase. Useful in this respect: a piece of sugar, an aspirin tablet, a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate or a piece of charcoal.

Many varieties of hybrid tea roses form several buds on shoots. To get for the cut large flower, leave only one bud, the most developed is the central one, the others are removed. A lush and long-flowering bush will turn out if the buds on it are not touched, but only fading, fading and crumbling flowers are removed.

At the same time, remember that excessive removal of flowering shoots leads to a general weakening of the aerial part, resulting in the development of root shoots (rose hips).

Shaping the young, first time flowering bush roses need special attention. The flowering of the bush in the first year should be minimal. Leave no more than 1-2 flowers per plant. Remove the rest in the bud appearance phase. Flowering shoots should be arranged symmetrically, alternating with non-flowering ones.

Only in this case is it possible to achieve uniform distribution nutrients and, consequently, the uniform development and formation of the bush.

On the video "Pruning roses in summer" you can see all the details of the process:

Rules for autumn pruning of roses

Autumn. Since the main part of the roses on winter period have to cover (with the exception of ground cover and park), autumn pruning comes down to shortening and removing part of the shoots so that shelter can be established above the bushes.

How to prune roses in the fall, if for the winter you decide to limit yourself to hilling them? Long branches still need to be cut, leaving no more than 40-45 cm. Otherwise, wet snow or icing can cause the bushes to break (fall apart) at the base.

The video "Pruning roses in autumn" shows how to do it right:

Rose bushes, like most garden crops, need pruning and maintenance. Before pruning roses after flowering, it is necessary to determine their class. There are over 30 groups in total, differing in the size of the bush and flower, the shape and color of the petals. Not all of them take root in summer cottages due to a capricious disposition, an abundance of thorns or minimal winter hardiness.

Culture of care ornamental plants is rooted in centuries of history. For example, the first mention of crown-forming pruning was found in the Persian scrolls of the Achaemenid dynasty. The ruler Theisp, who had a weakness for roses, was known as a well-known collector of these flowers. In the royal gardens, there were more than 25 types of rose bushes, the care of which was entrusted to several gardeners. Among other duties, servants were required to cut buds for royal palace, monitor the cleanliness and freshness of the bushes.

In home gardens, most often found:

1. Hybrid tea roses with single buds, a tree-like crown and rod-type rhizomes, under conditions middle lane begin to bloom at the end of June, the buds continue to form until the first frost.
2. Climbing with elongated shoots, outwardly resembling creepers. They are classified according to the parameters of the bud into large-flowered and small-flowered.
3. Floribunda - spray roses, the buds of which are collected in lush inflorescences.

Whichever option is chosen for the garden, only a properly pruned plant will please with an attractive exterior, lush fragrance throughout the season.

Variety from the Floribunda group

Modern gardeners know various technologies pruning. Each of them corresponds to the class of the plant, its age, season. Regular cleaning is essential for:

• maintaining bush hygiene - removing diseased shoots to light wood;
• ensuring crown aeration - cleaning from internal branches, lateral offspring;
• plant rejuvenation - removal of skeletal branches and dried trunks;
• crown formation to maintain decorativeness.

There are several levels of pruning:

Hybrid tea is sheared using strong or moderate technology.

Floribunda is suitable for combined pruning. Some of the branches are shortened to 5-7 buds, which ensures early flowering of the shrub. The remaining shoots are cut to 3-4 buds in order to slow down growth, to postpone budding to a later date. This technique allows you to double the duration of flowering.

Climbing representatives do not tolerate frequent haircuts. For this class of plants, an annual pinching of up to 8-12 buds is carried out and a strong pruning once every 3-4 years. At the same time, the bush is cleaned of aged branches.

It should be noted that faded rose buds must be collected and disposed of. The material left in the immediate vicinity of the shrub is a breeding ground for pathogenic microflora, the cause of the appearance of fungal diseases in the garden.

How to prune bushes after the first wave of flowering is described in the video.

Types of pruning garden roses

In spring, summer and autumn, the rose garden needs careful and regular care. There are several trim options:

• forming - giving the bush an aesthetic shape;
• supporting - pruning of young shoots to avoid thickening of the crown;
• sanitary - cleaning from affected and diseased branches, leaves;
• stimulating - removing part of the shoot to stimulate growth and development;
• anti-aging - removal of part of the crown for the emergence of new shoots.

In spring, the plant needs sanitary and rejuvenating cleaning. Anti-aging is carried out in order to stimulate the growth and development of fresh shoots on an aging plant. Sanitary - in order to improve the bush. Often these trimmings are combined in one procedure. After stripping the crown from frozen, old, damaged and deformed branches, the rose actively builds up its green mass. The result is elegant foliage in May, enlarged buds in June, abundant flowering in July and August.

This procedure must be carried out annually, starting from the 3rd year of the plant's life. The optimal time is the beginning of March, until sap flow processes are activated in the branches. In the spring, it is important for beginner gardeners to learn how to determine the degree of damage to the bush until the buds swell. Branches killed by frost are characterized by increased fragility, blackened "eyes".

The cut is made at an angle, leaving 0.5-1 cm from the kidney

1. The gardener selects skeletal branches that will become the base of the crown.
2. Sick and deformed shoots are removed with garden tool. Frozen and dried trunks are cut down at the root. Branches are cut down acute angle using a secateurs. The cut points are wiped with a solution of manganese and wrapped with agricultural tape.
3. The remaining branches are shortened in accordance with the class of the rose. An oblique cut is carried out at an acute angle 0.5-1 cm above the occurrence of the last kidney. In this case, the kidney itself should look outward in order to avoid deformation during the growth and development of the shoots. This measure minimizes crown thickening.
4. With stimulating pruning, 5 to 8 buds are left on strong shoots, and no more than 3 on weak shoots.

If several branches have grown from one bud, then one of the strongest ones is left. The rest break out, not waiting for their further growth. The formation of 3-5 processes from the kidney occurs after shearing in a cold, prolonged spring.

Are faded buds cut off?

Novice gardeners are often interested in whether garden roses should be pruned after the first flowering. It is better not to do this on young bushes, since the plant must go through the entire vegetative period at least once during its life: from bud swelling to seed ripening. This increases the immune forces of the plant.

In the future, summer pruning includes the removal of faded buds. The cut is made above the upper cinquefoil from the flower brush. If this is a single flower, then cut off under 7-8 leaves. This technology suitable for bushes that bloom in the first half of summer. At the place of the cut, young offspring will hatch, which by the end of the season will have time to ripen and bring new buds.

In the second half of summer, faded roses are not pruned, as the shoots from the perennial will not have time to ripen by autumn. In winter, such shoots freeze and die, damaging the entire bush. Gardeners choose wilted buds and leaves from the crown without affecting the branches.

Removing wild shoots from garden roses

Side shoots below the "graft" are wild and especially dangerous for hybrid roses. Their growth can lead to the degeneration of the bush. In this regard, gardeners carefully monitor their appearance and immediately remove them. Otherwise, they will completely replace the cultivar. You can recognize wild shoots by light green narrow foliage, an abundance of small thorns. If in doubt, then the base of the process should be found. After making sure that it originates below the vaccination, the removal is carried out. The cut should not be left, as this will lead to further growth of the shoots.

Pruning schemes for rose classes

Pruning roses after flowering is universal for all varieties of this crop. Technologies of spring-autumn works differ.

• Hybrid tea and floribunda

For the crown, 6-7 of the most developed trunks are selected. The rest are removed under the root. Places of cuts are poured with pitch to avoid the appearance of overgrowth. Overgrown shoots on these shrubs are cut off by 1/3 due to the high rates of annual growth. The cut is carried out at a level of 5 mm above the last kidney located outside. This measure allows you to protect roses from freezing even at temperatures from -35 ° C.

It is necessary to collect faded buds from them in the summer. In autumn, the plant is not cut or cleaned. The overgrown shoots are removed from the racks, carefully placed in the hole until winter. In March, the creepers are unleashed, the lower shoots are removed, the crown is thinned out from weak side shoots. The whips are shortened to 8-12 buds. The cut is carried out at the level of 0.5-1 cm above the last kidney. The procedure performed will stimulate the process of growth and budding.

Every 5-7 years climbing roses cut to 50 cm from the ground.

• standard roses

Shtamb - a type of crown in which the plant has only one trunk. In shape, standard roses imitate medium-sized trees. Haircut is organized taking into account the varietal characteristics of the bush. Most often, no more than 3 buds are left on flowering shoots, the crown itself is thinned out from branches and foliage growing inward.

Video about the rules for the formation of a standard rose: what is possible and impossible.

Do you need a fall haircut?

When preparing plants for the winter, bushes are also cut. The optimal time is the first frost, due to which the roses stop releasing buds. In autumn, all unripe shoots are cleaned from the shrub (they can be used as planting material) and leaves, flower-bearing branches are shortened. Autumn and spring cleansing can be alternated.

When wisely organized work roses will bloom earlier, every year they will look luxurious, delighting the gardener and guests with their magnificence.