How to cut roses after flowering in summer. Summer pruning roses

The magnificent flowering of the rose is measured out for its time, after which the shoots crown the fruits in the spirit of a la wild rose. If you do not intervene in the natural course of things, rose bushes will stand until autumn. But it is worth shortening the flower shoots and, lo and behold, after a while they grow back. A little later, luxurious flowers reappear on them, returning us to the beginning of summer.

Why prune roses after flowering

After flowering, the roses must be cut off, or rather, shortened the shoot on which there was a flower or flower brush. As a result, the plant will switch from the fruiting program to the regeneration program. The “spent” inflorescences left on the bush look ugly, so they are cut off until mid-July-early August.

The fruits of the rose are left for the winter, but in the summer it is better to cut them off - they look painfully sloppy

From the dormant bud located at the base of the leaf, a new flowering shoot will start to grow. A repeated, but already artificially caused, wave of flowering will begin. The cut is made over the external kidney. Sometimes they talk about a cut above a leaf - this is the same as above a kidney, because it is located at the base of the leaf. The cut point should be about 5 mm above the bud (or leaf petiole).

A cut above the lateral outer bud prevents thickening of the bush

This technique improves the ventilation of the bush, is the prevention of fungal diseases. The bush becomes more magnificent, the shoots do not get mixed up, the flowers do not rub against each other and the petals do not fly around ahead of time.

Thickening shoots will grow from the lateral inner buds, directed inside the bush

They also shorten blind shoots, which for some reason do not have a growth bud at the end.

This blind shoot has a growth bud damaged by a pest, so this shoot has no growth prospects.

They grow to a certain length and stop developing. Such branches are shortened above the first external lateral bud located below.

A blind shoot is pruned over the first developed lateral bud

To determine the blind shoots, the bush is carefully sorted along the branch. On some types of roses, the apical buds are large, and on some they are small, so they may not be immediately noticeable.

These shoots have terminal buds

There are several types of roses that differ in the type of flowering. Depending on this, the shoot is shortened to different heights.

hybrid tea roses

This species is characterized by long stems, ending, as a rule, with one flower (although there are varieties with brushes). There are no side branches on the shoots.

Tea roses and floribunda roses are pruned above the 3-4th leaf from the bottom

The place of the cut is determined by moving upwards from the base of the shoot - the cut is made over the 3rd–4th leaf.

Although the hybrid tea rose and floribunda are pruned low, new shoots have time to grow and bloom.

Floribundas bloom like hybrid tea, but not with one flower, but with a brush. Both types are cut in the same way.

The floribunda rose is also cut low.

Video: hybrid tea rose pruning

Features of pruning climbing roses

Detachment climbing roses consists of two main types - ramblers and climbings, or climbers. Without getting into the wilds of the classification of both, we will consider a typical pruning for each of the species.

Roses rambler

In rambler-type climbing roses, the first flowers open on last year's lateral shoots, after which the baton is intercepted by the current year's shoots. Thus, flowering is continuous.

Ramblers are great for decorating the walls of the house.

Pruning is done only on last year's shoots: the cut is made over 5–6 leaves below the dry inflorescence. The shoots of the current year are left to bloom, to form fruits, in a word, to ripen. To enhance the formation of lateral flower-bearing branches, the top of a young lash can be pinched 5–7 cm.

Video: pruning climbing roses rambler

climbers

Climber roses have shoots 3 m or more long, covered with large single flowers or flower clusters along the entire length.

Beautiful climbers - not a word to say, not a pen to describe

summer pruning consists in shortening the main shoot by 1/3 of its length, which contributes to branching and re-blooming. On the remaining shoot, dry inflorescences are removed.

Climbing rose shoots are shortened and freed from dry flowers

Correct completion of pruning - top dressing

After pruning, the rose must be fed. To do this, use the following options:

• special fertilizer in accordance with the instructions;
• herbal infusion - 1-2 liters of infusion per 10 liters of water;
• fermented chicken droppings or cow, horse manure - 1 liter per 10 liters of water.

Timing for pruning

Most roses bloom in June. Florists have enough time for pruning with all the ensuing circumstances. But if the first flowering, for some reason - weather, pests, diseases, has shifted to the second half of summer, it is undesirable to carry out summer pruning. Because the plant will not have enough time for new flower shoots to mature.

The first snow did not harm the roses, but the frost would have killed both the flowers and the unripe shoots.

If the region is characterized by early first frosts, young shoots will suffer first. Therefore, roses that have blossomed out of time are not pruned. Fruits form on them and in this form the bush hibernates.

My mistakes and achievements

I have been growing eight varieties of roses for a long time, seven of which are multi-colored and one is climbing. The names of the varieties have been forgotten, and I confess that I only recently learned what climbers or floribundas are. For a long time, pruning was carried out on a whim, it is surprising that all my “girls” are still alive and bloom beautifully. The main mistake was to pinch off spent flowers. After that, I was tormented by the question, why do the remains of the pedicels turn black, turning into something gangrene-like?

Leaving the pedicels was a big mistake

I didn’t always pay attention to where the shoot was cut off - above the kidney or where it was convenient to reach. New shoots, of course, grew, but the protruding stump looked sad.

The shoot was cut off at an arbitrary place between the buds, but not above the bud

Incorrect pruning (not pinching) is not so catastrophic, new flowering shoots will grow. But still, the heart is sweeter when the pruning is done correctly. The rose bush seems to be filled with gratitude, and the twig topped with a sharp knob is in a hurry to grow and express gratitude with a fragrant flower.

Either I guessed it, or I became smarter, but the cropping was done correctly

Summer pruning roses after flowering will be the highest manifestation of your love for her. It won't be long before you take a retaliatory step, and charming flowers will bloom again in your garden.

During the year most rose bushes need repeated pruning: in spring, summer and autumn. Conventionally, the summer procedure is divided into sanitary (shaping, healing) and pruning after flowering. Let's take a closer look at how to properly prune roses after flowering, and what garden tools are needed for this.

Basic rules for pruning roses after flowering

Pruning roses after flowering in summer is carried out as:

• allows the plant not to waste energy on the formation seed material;
• improves decorative look culture;
• prevents the occurrence of fungal diseases;
• stimulates growth and the appearance of more buds;
• rejuvenates the plant.

All diseased, weak and dead shoots are subject to removal. They are removed to ground level. Thinning is carried out by shoots growing inside the bush. Summer pruning of roses after flowering prevents thickening and promotes free circulation fresh air. This prevents the occurrence powdery mildew, rust and black spotting.

Branches thinner than a pencil are also cut off so that the plant does not waste energy on them. Before winter, they will not have time to get strong enough and freeze.

Pruning is carried out in dry weather with a secateurs or a knife to the white core of the branches; if the stem is thicker than 2 cm, then use a garden saw. The tool is used sharp and clean, as blunt and dirty - can cause infection.

Summer pruning of roses is carried out after the first flowering, approximately 8 mm above the outer growth buds - "eyes". In this way, growth and further flowering can be stimulated. These buds - the beginnings of roses, are located in the leaf axils and are clearly visible after the leaves have fallen.

We do not pinch the rose, but only cut it off!

Removing a faded flower by pinching off the pedicel, like a daffodil or tulip, will weaken the shoot. This happens because the shoot after pinching begins to stretch, becomes more brittle. It also leads to the rapid fall of the flower.

The cut is made smooth, without notches, with an inclination to the kidney up to 0.5 cm. If the pruning of roses is done incorrectly, the plant may die. Above the kidney - the stem dries up and dies, below - damage to the kidney and infection is possible. If the incision is made with the wrong slope, then the kidney begins to retain moisture and gradually rots. A fresh cut is covered with garden pitch.

Pruning is also subject to wild growth, which appears in grafted roses below the grafting site and at the root. Such processes are removed to the base immediately after detection. They weaken the grafted cultivated plant, differ from it small leaves and rough stem.

It is impossible to neglect the pruning of wild growth!

As well as growing wild varieties of roses next to cultivated ones, one should not allow the development of wild shoots that develop on the mother part of the bush to the place of vaccination. The point is not only in excess consumers of moisture and minerals, but in resistance to diseases and pests. Uncultivated varieties are much more susceptible to damage by fungi and viruses, but if wild shoots are diseased, the rest will also get sick.

If galls are found on branches similar to nuts, the stems with them must be cut off. In the galls, larvae of the gall wasp develop, which feed on the juices of the plant, depleting it.

If the summer pruning of roses is carried out correctly, and the rose does not bloom, then the plant is checked for the presence of blind shoots with underdeveloped buds that need to be cut along with the leaf. Removed branches are burned to prevent disease.

What are blind shoots and the reasons for their appearance

Blind shoots are called those on which there is no flowering due to poor development of the buds for various reasons, since the growth eye is not visible on such buds. They appear very often when overfeeding, when the rose drives thick and powerful, but not flowering shoots. Also, the cause of blindness may be insufficient lighting or the unfortunate proximity of others. ornamental shrubs.

How to prune roses after flowering in summer video

Rose pruning levels

Gardeners distinguish short (strong), moderate (medium) and light (high) pruning. To understand how to prune a rose after flowering, you need to focus on its size, age, growth rate and variety.

Strong pruning is carried out on dense bushes 3-4 growing buds from the base of the stem. The remaining stems should not exceed a height of up to 15 cm. Short pruning is carried out on newly planted rose bushes, but not on adult roses (weak hybrid tea varieties are an exception).

With moderate pruning, the stems are cut at 5-7 eyes, and the shoots are half the height. Such pruning of roses after the first flowering is suitable for all varieties and is optimal for stimulating further growth and flowering.

Light pruning consists in shortening the stems by 2/3 of the height by 8-12 buds. The procedure is not recommended to be repeated for several years, as this contributes to thickening, poor flowering and stretching of the stems.

Experienced gardeners apply complex pruning, which includes all types. By the end of summer, strong pruning is not carried out so as not to stimulate the growth of young shoots of roses before winter.

Preparing and pruning roses for the winter video

Pruning schemes for roses of various varietal groups

Summer pruning roses large-flowered varieties implies a cut of a flower with a stem containing at least one pentate (having five stipules) leaf.

Pruning multi-flowered roses (floribunda, scrub, climbing climbers) comes down to removing the entire inflorescence above the first leaf immediately after withering.

During summer pruning of roses of standard varieties, the direction of shoot growth is controlled, directing the largest growth bud inward, as when pruning in spring.

Pruning climbing roses consists in removing the brushes to the first leaf. This stimulates branching and early flowering next year.

Pruning climbing roses after flowering in summer video

Outcome

Compliance with all the rules of summer pruning of roses allows you to stimulate abundant and colorful flowering for many years. Also, regular care and removal of excess shoots on roses will help protect them from pests and diseases.

Rose is the queen of all garden flowers. A graceful, lush and elegant rose will decorate any garden, bringing a touch of romance and aristocracy into it. She can't be called unpretentious plant. You have to fight for beauty in the garden. Caring for rose bushes is a responsible occupation that requires certain knowledge, skills and time. spring pruning, proper watering, pruning roses after flowering and shelter for the winter are the main steps in caring for flowers.

Florists advise cutting roses several times a year: in spring, summer and autumn. In addition to the three main procedures, sanitary pruning should be carried out, which consists in removing old unwanted shoots, faded buds and diseased leaves. Properly performed regular pruning guarantees the bush:

• Rejuvenation of the bush, which leads to faster growth and vegetation.
• Resistance to winter frosts and immunity to the majority garden diseases.
• Abundance of young buds and bright bloom summer.
• Decorative and aesthetic bush.
• Strengthening the root system.
• Distribution of received nutrients evenly over the bush.

Basic rules for pruning roses

Despite the season of the event, there are a number of basic requirements for pruning rose bushes. First of all, take care of the choice of tools. Have a sharp, clean pruner and lopper on hand. Keep garden tools in a dry and clean place: unsanitary conditions lead to the spread of diseases throughout the garden. Do not forget that the bushes are covered with thorns, so take care of your hands by wearing thick gloves.

The cuts can not be made even, observe the slope of 45 degrees. Always remove dried branches and faded buds that take away the strength of the bush, obscure it and violate the aesthetic beauty of the flower garden. Keep your tools sharp. The cut should be clear, without torn edges and breaks. After circumcision, the "wounds" are treated antiseptic(for example, alcohol).

Pruning after flowering

Summer pruning - milestone in the development of a rose bush. After the first flowering, it is important to carry out the right event that will add strength to the plant. First of all, in the summer the rose should be cut to form an even beautiful bush. An overgrown rose may produce too many shoots to bloom. Flowers in excess lead to a neglected appearance of the rose garden. In addition, shading the bush leads to excessive moisture content and provokes the development of fungi. Weak and too late shoots should be removed immediately.

The second important step is pruning after flowering. Dry buds shade the plant, take away its vitality and do not give growth to young shoots. You need to cut off not only faded buds, but the entire shoot under the root, leaving one bud above the ground. A strong young shoot will grow out of it, which will release flowers the next year. The cut part can be cut and planted in the ground or potatoes, and used as a cutting. By mid-August, as a rule, 2/3 of the bush is removed.

Pruning climbing roses

Curly roses bloom in their second year, so do not prune during the first year. Blooming buds of medium size - up to 10 cm. Climbing rose blooms along the formed horizontal lashes, and the buds also bloom on lateral shoots.

It is advised to start pruning climbing roses after flowering in late August or early September. First of all, all diseased shoots are removed. Leave 15 cm from the base. Those shoots on which there was flowering are shortened by 3 buds. To stimulate the formation of basal shoots, select 2 old branches and shorten them, leaving 30 cm from the base.

During flowering, sanitary pruning is acceptable. Removing dried inflorescences of climbing roses prolongs the period of a summer riot of flowers. Remember, you need to shoot only the inflorescence, without touching the shoot. Remember that a properly conducted event guarantees almost continuous flowering.

The rose survives well at home with the provision of decent care. For indoor plants there are certain rules of care: timely watering, top dressing, appropriate air humidity, temperature and pruning. To ensure quality and abundant flowering in winter, the plant should rest. During rest, watering is significantly reduced, top dressing is not performed, the plant is taken out to a warm sunny room.

The main pruning is done during winter holiday plants. On strong main shoots, 5 buds are left, and on small ones, 2 or 3 (or not left at all). It depends on the desired size of the bush. The more shoots on it, the smaller the flowers will be. Summer house rose pruned regularly. It is necessary to immediately remove the faded bud. It takes away the strength of the plant, obscures it and provokes the development of fungal diseases, to which roses are very susceptible. Do not forget about dried leaves, which must be removed in a timely manner.

Rose care - hard work which requires experience and knowledge. But the beauty of this flower compensates for all the forces spent on its development. This is a real decoration of your home and garden.

Regular pruning of roses is the key to their lush flowering and good growth of new shoots. However, it is very important to do it correctly. Otherwise, you can destroy the plant. We will tell you how to prevent this.

There are several types (degrees) of pruning roses. They depend on the season, the group to which the rose belongs, and the height of the shoots of the plant.

Short (low), or strong, rose pruning

It is used in spring (after removing the winter shelter) for hybrid tea, polyanthus and floribunda roses. And such pruning is carried out during the planting of new seedlings.

With strong pruning, 1/3 of the shoots are left, while the stems are shortened at the level of 3-4 buds from the base of the bush.

Medium or moderate rose pruning

Suitable for various medium-sized types of roses and is used mainly after flowering. Shoots are shortened at the level of 5-7 buds from the base and thus form a bush.

Long (high), or weak, rose pruning

Recommended for vigorous climbing and tall hybrid tea roses. At the same time, the shoots are shortened slightly: at the level of 8-15 buds from the base of the bush. Long pruning is carried out at spring planting seedlings.

In addition, there is combined pruning- when the shoots of one plant are shortened to varying degrees. With the help of such pruning, bushes of some varieties of floribunda roses are formed. This allows you to give the plants an elegant shape.

As well as sanitary pruning, which is carried out throughout the growing season in order to prevent diseases. At the same time, affected, dry, frozen and weak shoots are removed, the stems are shortened to a healthy (green) tissue.

Spring pruning roses

Before spring pruning, winter shelter is removed from plants, garbage is removed, all old leaves are removed and mulch is raked. Then the roses are pruned when the weather is warm, the buds swell, but the shoots have not yet started to grow. At this time, sanitary pruning is carried out.

If the bush is too thick, thin it out and leave 4-5 strong, healthy stems. At the same time, it is important that all cuts are made with a sharp pruner, which minimally injures the plant. In addition, all shoots are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, retreating upwards from the bud by about 5 mm.

In addition, during spring pruning, the bush is given the desired shape and shoots are cut to stimulate flowering.

Summer pruning roses

In summer, sanitary and formative pruning of bushes is continued: wild growth, dried branches and withered flowers, cutting the stem to the first cinquefoil and a healthy bud. Roses older than 3 years often grow too many young shoots in August, which thicken the bush and create a shadow inside it. This can lead to the development of fungal diseases, so during the summer you need to get rid of excess shoots.

Pruning roses after flowering

This is a very important summer pruning, so it should be mentioned separately. Removing wilted buds allows roses to bloom longer and not waste energy on fruiting.

On roses in which several buds form on one stem (floribunda, climbing climbers, scrubs), the entire brush is cut off above the upper cinquefoil.

In hybrid tea roses, which produce only one flower per stem, wilted buds are cut differently. In the first half of summer, the shoot is cut so that only 3-4 leaves remain on it above the soil level. This will contribute to the rapid growth of new shoots coming from the roots.

In the first half of summer, you can also cut the inflorescences of floribunda roses.

And in the second half of summer, only wilted flowers themselves should be removed.

In climbing ramblers (which bloom on the shoots of the second year), after flowering, brushes are removed to the first leaf. This will contribute to the branching of the shoots, on which flowers will bloom next year.

Pruning roses for the winter

Flowers grown in mild climates without winter shelter do not need pruning in autumn. And from covering roses in late autumn (approximately in October, before frost), all unripened shoots are removed and the stems are shortened to the height of the covering material.

General rules for pruning roses

At any time of the year, it is important to cut the stems of roses correctly. The oblique cut should be approximately 5 mm above the kidney.

If you want to get a spreading rose bush, cut off the branches above the bud, which is on the outside. Then new escape will not grow in the center of the bush, but outward. And if you need to grow an upright bush with vertical shoots, pruning is done on a bud, which is located on inside stem.

In addition, the age of the bushes must be taken into account. Yes, at annual plants the shoot is cut about half.

On the second year on each branch, 2-3 recovery shoots are formed, which grow from the root collar. In no case can they be cut to the ground, since it is they who provide the plants lush bloom and longevity. So, two-year-old shoots are shortened by 2-3 eyes from the base, and one-year shoots are shortened above the upper well-formed bud, located below the faded buds.

In adult roses (starting from the age of three) completely remove all dead and weakened branches and short shoots that have grown after pruning the previous year. In addition, for the formation of good flowers, all side shoots of any thickness growing towards the center of the bush should be cut.

Pruning hybrid tea roses

Bushes of hybrid tea roses are pruned in the shape of a ball. In these plants, buds form on the shoots of the current year, so they are greatly shortened. On young bushes, 2-4 buds are left at a distance of 15 cm from the ground level, and on adults - 4-6 buds at a distance of about 20 cm. On lateral shoots, 2-4 buds are also left.

In addition, internal stems are removed from the center of the bush, which contribute to thickening.

Trimming floribunda roses

Roses from the floribunda group also need a strong (short) pruning, otherwise a voluminous bush will grow with weak stems and small flowers. But so that the plant does not quickly deplete with strong pruning, a special method is used: some stems are made short to get early flowering, and annual basal shoots are cut only 1/3 of the length.

On young lateral branches, 2-3 buds are left, and on old ones - 3-5 buds each. At the same time, the old stems growing in the middle of the bush are completely cut out.

Pruning climbing roses

Climbing, large-flowered and powerful upright roses are pruned minimally in autumn. Their stems are tied with a rope, bent to the ground and then covered. And the main pruning is carried out in the spring.

After removing the shelter, the stems are shortened so as to give the bush nice shape, on the side shoots leave 2-4 buds. And in the summer of such roses, wilted flowers are cut to the first leaf.

Pruning polyanthus roses

Polyanthus roses are also mainly pruned in spring (usually in April), and only damaged and weak branches are removed in autumn. In early spring, strong shoots are shortened by 1/3 of the length, dead, weak and diseased branches are cut out completely. Thickening shoots are removed from the center of the bush.

Pruning ground cover roses

At ground cover roses in autumn, flowering shoots, weak branches and diseased growths are cut off, strong young basal branches that have grown this year are left, but at the same time they are slightly shortened. Lateral shoots are cut into 2-3 buds up to 10-15 cm from their base. Long stems are bent to the ground, secured with pins and covered. In the spring, frozen and broken branches are cut out.

The world of a happy woman

Whatever type of rose pruning you perform (preventive, thinning, shaping or rejuvenating), you must do it in accordance with certain rules so as not to harm the plants. For each season, the requirements for pruning roses vary slightly, but there are also general provisions which must be strictly observed. You will learn about the main ones below.

When is it better to prune roses and types of spring pruning (with photo)

Pruning is one of the most important agricultural practices for growing roses. The decorativeness of plants, the splendor of their flowering, the intensity of damage by pests and diseases, and, finally, longevity depend on pruning.

For each group, there are specific rules for pruning roses, but there are also general provisions that are inherent in all groups to one degree or another.

When is the best time to prune roses and how to do it correctly? In spring, roses are pruned for flowering, in summer - for re-blooming and maintaining the shape of the bush. Autumn pruning of roses is performed for winter shelter.

There are four types spring pruning roses: preventive, thinning, shaping and rejuvenating.

Do preventive pruning in early spring to eradicate fungal diseases.

Spring. After removing the shelter, when the buds swelling on the shoots are clearly visible, the bushes are thinned out. It consists in removing dying and unnecessary branches and shoots that are not important for flowering. As a result of the removal of excess shoots, the plant large quantity nutrients will be sent to those shoots that can use them with great effect for flowering.

At the same time, the remaining shoots are shortened in order to awaken the lower buds to growth, which ensure flowering. In this case, we give the plant the opportunity to direct nutrients to the development of flowers to achieve the highest quality.

Sections must be immediately covered with garden pitch, then moisture will not linger on them, and the risk of various infections penetrating through fresh wounds will decrease.

How to prune roses correctly so as not to damage the bushes? When working, avoid flattening and injuring the tissues of the plant, do not allow the bark to break.

There are three types of shaping pruning: strong, medium and weak. With strong pruning, 1-2 well-developed buds are left on the shoot, with medium pruning - 3-6, with weak pruning, only the tops of the shoots are removed.

As a rule, strong pruning is used for polyanthus and miniature roses, medium pruning for hybrid tea, floribunda and grandiflora groups, weak pruning for park and climbing roses.

Look at the photo - when pruning roses in spring, it is important to observe the shape of the bush and the position of the buds from which new shoots will come:

The kidney should look outward, then the bush will be beautiful and not thickened in the center, it will hurt less, because it is well lit by the sun and blown by the breeze.

Remember, dry, damaged and thin branches are removed first, leaving only a few good, strong shoots. They are shortened to the 3rd, 4th or 5th kidney. The result should be stems from 10 to 25 cm tall.

Most of the varieties grown by gardeners need short pruning. They endure heavy pruning without any damage to their livelihoods.

Hybrid tea varieties are subjected to short pruning - small-flowered and large-flowered polyanthus and undersized varieties other groups.

Medium and less short pruning is enough remontant varieties(with the exception of undersized ones, which are also cut short) and some vigorous varieties of hybrid tea and other groups.

When carrying out spring pruning of roses of all varieties, thinning of the bushes is mandatory. At the same time, weak, deformed (unnaturally curved), broken, dying shoots, as well as those with signs of damage, are completely removed. They are cut off at the very base, leaving no stumps. Damaged stems are shortened to healthy tissue (with a white core).

Immediately after spring pruning, preventive spraying is carried out from harmful organisms if the kidneys are dormant, with copper or iron sulphate (100-150gna 10l of water), if a green cone has formed (the kidneys have started to grow) - with 1% Bordeaux liquid or its substitutes ("Abiga-Peak", "Oksihom", "Oxychloride copper, etc.).

Video "Pruning roses in summer" will help you better understand the process technology:

Cut roses for summer pruning

Summer. All roses tend to develop many extra weak shoots. Among them there are "blind" who do not carry a flower. Leaving all the shoots on the bush in summer is useless and even harmful, as they lead to excessive thickening of the bush. It is necessary at the beginning of summer to cut into a ring (to the base) shoots directed inside the bush, underdeveloped and "blind".

If the so-called blind shoot is cut off above the nearest leaf, where there is a healthy eye, a new shoot capable of flowering will later grow from it.

cut roses:

• AT open ground: Do not cut more than two flowers from one bush at the same time, so as not to weaken the plant. The flowering of bushes and the quality of flowers directly depend on how correctly the cut is made. It is impossible to cut more than two flowers from a bush at the same time. At the base of the peduncle, 2-4 knots must be left and the cut should be made over a well-developed bud, looking outward. Then you can hope for a quick resumption of growth and re-flowering.
• You can not cut flowers from young one-year bushes, as well as from weak or diseased plants.
• To keep cut roses longer in the vase, it is better to cut them early in the morning or in the evening; roses cut during the day fade faster.
• You need to cut the stems with a sharp secateurs obliquely; more water enters the stem with an oblique cut, which helps to prolong their life in the cut.
• It is necessary to cut roses in summer in colored buds; in spring and summer, buds with bent outer petals are cut off (almost in half-opening).
• Varieties of roses with a goblet-shaped flower are cut when the petals are slightly opened, the color has already appeared, but the bud is still hard.
• Gustomahrovye varieties are cut when the buds are almost ready to bloom, and the petals are slightly unfolded; if they are cut earlier, they bloom poorly in water, lose their color (turn blue) and quickly disappear.
• Cut roses are very sensitive to the purity of the water. Bacteria and fungi contained in it clog the vessels in the stems and lead to a loss of quality. Water can be disinfected citric acid(0.5 g per 1 liter).
• For good preservation of roses in a vase, the lower part of the stems is at least 10 cm clear of leaves. It is not recommended to remove spikes - this reduces the quality of flowers, shortens their life.
• Acidifying the water with citric acid will extend the life of the roses in the vase. Useful in this respect: a piece of sugar, an aspirin tablet, a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate or a piece of charcoal.

Many varieties of hybrid tea roses form several buds on shoots. To get for the cut large flower, leave only one bud, the most developed is the central one, the others are removed. A lush and long-flowering bush will turn out if the buds on it are not touched, but only fading, fading and crumbling flowers are removed.

At the same time, remember that excessive removal of flowering shoots leads to a general weakening of the aerial part, resulting in the development of root shoots (rose hips).

Shaping the young, first time flowering bush roses needed Special attention. The flowering of the bush in the first year should be minimal. Leave no more than 1-2 flowers per plant. Remove the rest in the bud appearance phase. Flowering shoots should be arranged symmetrically, alternating with non-flowering ones.

Only in this case is it possible to achieve uniform distribution nutrients and, consequently, the uniform development and formation of the bush.

On the video "Pruning roses in summer" you can see all the details of the process:

Rules for autumn pruning of roses

Autumn. Since the main part of the roses on winter period have to cover (with the exception of ground cover and park), autumn pruning comes down to shortening and removing part of the shoots so that shelter can be established above the bushes.

How to prune roses in the fall, if for the winter you decide to limit yourself to hilling them? Long branches still need to be cut, leaving no more than 40-45 cm. Otherwise, wet snow or icing can cause the bushes to break (fall apart) at the base.

The video "Pruning roses in autumn" shows how to do it right: