Veranda attached to the wooden house. Veranda attached to the house - design projects and decoration of a modern terrace (60 photos)

The buildings 03.03.2020
The buildings

The extension of the veranda to the house is quite feasible with your own hands. The simplest option is open, when the veranda combines the functions of a porch. If a warm room is required, it is necessary to properly board the veranda and lay the insulation.

Foundation selection

Depending on the weight of the extension, the type of soil and financial capabilities, the optimal type of foundation is chosen. But in any case, the foundations of the building and the veranda should not touch - between them, an elastic gasket is laid in a 10-15 cm gap - mineral wool or foam plastic with mandatory waterproofing. So, due to the difference in the weight of buildings during spring heaving, the foundations will not be deformed.

The columnar foundation for the veranda to the house is suitable for light outbuildings and soils that do not require special preparation.

1. A place is marked for the pillars. The corner supports are marked first, if the distance between them is more than 1.5 meters, intermediate posts should be installed every half a meter. Inside the perimeter, the supports are arranged in squares according to the same principle.

2. Holes are being dug. Their depth should be below the freezing line of the soil or equal to the main foundation. 10 cm of sand and the same amount of gravel are poured onto the bottom, formwork is installed and everything is poured with concrete. The surface must be leveled.

3. After the concrete has completely hardened, pillars are erected from bricks. Their height should be below the main foundation to accommodate the porch canopy under the roof of the house.

Strip foundation

A warm veranda to the house, especially if the walls are planned to be brick, should be built on a strip or pile foundation. The principle of its filling is the same, only it requires more time and materials.

The bottom of the trenches is leveled and compacted tightly, a sand and gravel cushion is laid on top and formwork is organized.

Waterproofing is laid, everything is poured with concrete and leveled. Considering that the terrace is not a permanent structure, it is not necessary to reinforce the foundation for it.

For sandy and heaving soils, it is best to use a foundation on piles for heavy insulated verandas. Using screw piles, they can be screwed into the ground even without the use of special equipment.

To do this, metal piles are screwed in pre-marked places, in the upper part of which holes can be made and lever rods can be inserted to facilitate twisting. After deepening to the desired depth, the top of the piles is cut off, and they themselves are poured with concrete.

For a warm terrace with your own hands, it is better to choose simple drawings, otherwise a complex structure cannot be built correctly without the necessary skills. A rectangular veranda with a shed roof is the best option.

The lower trim is made double and is laid on the foundation and connected “half-tree” in the corners. Vertical racks are attached to the bottom trim, and their height is selected depending on the location - they are higher near the wall of the house to provide a canopy slope. After that, the upper trim is made and the crossbars for the window frames are attached.

A run is attached to the wall of the house - a horizontal beam, on which the roof of the veranda will rest. The rafters are laid with one end on the run, and with the other - on the opposite side of the upper trim. The crate is attached across the rafters - horizontally.

For soft tiles, plywood is laid on the crate, and metal tiles can be attached directly to the crate. It is important not to forget about hydro and thermal insulation if the extension is planned to be warm.

How to make a veranda, properly mount the frame and fix the mounting board, is very clearly described in the video:

The veranda attached to the house allows you to expand the habitable area, get a place for a comfortable stay. Closed (glazed), it still reduces the heat loss of the house. The best part is that you can make it yourself. And there are options that require solid costs, there are inexpensive ones. There are a lot of varieties both in structure and in the materials used, you can decorate in any style.

What are

According to the method of arrangement, the veranda attached to the house can be closed - with glazing - or open. The open ones are used mainly in the warm period, the closed ones can serve as a place for recreation all year round. The veranda attached to the house can be of two types at once: part can be glazed (closed), part can be open.

There are also walkways - this is when in order to get into the house you pass through it. Such extensions are located from the front of the house, sometimes from the side of the courtyard, if there are two exits from the house. Entrance to impassable only from the house. It is impossible to get outside from such a veranda.

An extension can cover one, two or more sides of the house. If it covers two adjacent parts of the house, it is called a corner. Some of them occupy only part of the wall.

The forms are different. More often it is a rectangle, less often - a hexagon, a semicircle, other non-standard shapes (it is more difficult to build such ones). In short, these are all types of verandas attached to the house, but without taking into account materials.

An addition around the perimeter gives the house an extravagant look.

What materials are they made from

Most often in our area they make wooden verandas. It is easier to work with wood, and it is not as expensive as in other countries. In areas where wood is very expensive, the structural elements are made of metal, and the sheathing is selected to your liking. It can be glass (double-glazed windows), polycarbonate.

They build the walls of the veranda from brick, shell rock, rubble stone, building blocks. Just like a house, they are then finished or not, depending on the design of the main building. They can just make a fence, as in the photo above.

If the tree is expensive, or reluctant to regularly work with its processing, the frame of the veranda is assembled from metal. For this, a profile pipe, corners or channel is most often used - it depends on the material and size of the extension. It is easier to attach glass packs to metal, you can make not glazing, but use polycarbonate. This material can be of different colors and different degrees of transparency. Despite the apparent fragility, there is a fairly durable material that is used to build greenhouses. And if so, then in the veranda, if it is closed, it will keep warm well.

Veranda attached to the house: construction stages

First of all, you need to decide on the type - open / closed, from what material, choose the type of foundation. You also need to decide what size it will have, where and how to be located. All this is desirable to draw on the plan. Even better - order a project. Construction according to the project is rather an exception for us, but at least a plan with dimensions and an indication of the location, binding to paths, etc. you should have.

Do-it-yourself construction of a veranda to the house follows the following plan (we build it from wood):

  1. With the help of pegs and twine, mark the contours.
  2. Remove the sod and fertile layer. If this is not done, the vegetation under the deck will rot, spreading aromas.
  3. Lay out the foundation. At this stage, questions may arise: how high should it be. If you make the foundation incoherent and “floating”, the level of the veranda flooring should be 5-10 cm below the floor level. This is necessary so that even when raised, the extension does not block the front door. If you do not want the floor to be lower, you will have to make a high threshold in the front door: to guarantee the freedom of opening the door. The height of the support beam depends on the height at which the floor of the extension will be located. It is nailed to the wall of the house, floor beams are attached to it. The height of the foundation is beaten along its lower edge (these are the next two steps).
  4. Nail a support beam to the wall, along the lower edge of which the height of the foundation is beaten off.

    How to mark the extension: nail the support beam at the required level, beat off the height of the foundation along its lower edge

  5. Build a foundation.
  6. While the concrete is gaining at least half the strength, you complete the preparation of the site. If at the bottom of the pit (the fertile layer was removed) the soil passes water well (sandy, sandy loam), crushed stone is poured to the bottom. It can be compacted, but you can do without it. If there is loam or clay under the fertile layer, you will have to fill the pit with either the same soil (but not fertile) or pure clay. It must be well compacted so that voids are not created in which water will accumulate (it is better to lay layers soaked to a paste state).
  7. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the finished foundation.
  8. Support racks under the roof are exposed and fixed.
  9. They make the strapping of the racks: they nail a timber 100 * 150 mm thick around the perimeter. It can be nailed outside the racks or between them. Sometimes the racks are nailed after the floor has been laid. This is not the best option: the floor will quickly become unusable. With such a structure, in order to replace it, you will have to disassemble everything, up to the roof. If you first set the racks, and then the floor, it can be repaired without problems.

    This is how the assembled frame of the veranda attached to the house looks like. Intermediate racks are needed only if the width of the veranda is more than 3 meters.

  10. Floor beams (beam 100 * 150 mm) are attached to the foundation and the supporting beam. The step of their installation corresponds to the step of installing piles or posts.
  11. Assemble the truss system.
  12. Side railings (for open) or walls (for glazed) are installed. At this stage, the general technology ends. Further, for the covered ones, it is longer, the open veranda is easier to attach to the house:
    • For open beams, floor boards are nailed.
    • For glazed make insulated floor. A draft floor is nailed to the beams. Above - logs, between them - a heater, on top - a finishing floor.
  13. Roof laying.
  14. Wall decoration inside and outside.

These are just general steps. To have a more complete picture of how to make a veranda to the house, we will further consider the most problematic moments of construction in more detail.

Perhaps you are interested in building a gazebo?

Foundation

If the veranda is attached to the house, the foundations are very rarely made connected. Firstly, the house has already settled, the shrinkage has passed. If a “fresh” building is rigidly attached to it, problems will inevitably arise. If it is possible to tie them, then only on stable, reliable soils, on which there are no movements. Secondly, heavy foundations are rarely made for extensions of this type. The building itself turns out to be light - especially open from wood or frame - and the bearing capacity is enough.

In general, they put verandas on the same foundations as at home. Another thing is that most of them stand on columnar bases: the costs are small, it takes a little time. And although all architects and designers claim that it is much more difficult to put up the correct columnar foundation than (although the tape one is much more expensive), people put the pillars.

Column and pile foundation

If you decide to attach a veranda to a wooden house, you can put a columnar foundation. To make it yourself, you need to find out at what depth and at what distance the supports are placed. The distance between the posts depends on the material from which the extension will be built. If these are light materials - wood or light frame construction - you can set them in increments of 1.5 meters. For heavier ones, the distance should be from 1 meter.

Columnar foundation for the veranda - the columns are made of bricks. This open veranda is attached to a wooden house. The house stands on a strip foundation. The foundations of the extension and the house are not connected

When choosing the depth of columns, there are two approaches:

  • Bury below freezing depth. This is done on water-saturated soils prone to heaving. In this case, the veranda will stand on the same level, without changing its position, regardless of the heaving forces. For a columnar foundation, this only makes sense if the freezing depth is not more than 1.2 meters. At great depths, it is easier to make a pile foundation (better -). Pile holes are not very difficult to make even if you need to drill 2 meters. For the construction of columns for each of them, digging a pit of the same depth is difficult and time-consuming.
  • Make a shallow foundation: 20-30 cm below the fertile layer. In this case, get a floating veranda, which will be understood and lowered during frost heaving. It is much easier to build such a structure, but every spring you will have to deal with the consequences of heaving. Different pillars will “walk” in different ways and you will have to somehow rectify the situation. But this is on heaving soils (clay, loam). On stable soils that are not prone to heaving, there will be no such problems.

What is good about this option for a foundation for a veranda to a house? Quickly built, the cost of work and building materials is small.

The veranda is attached to a brick house on a strip foundation. They put it on . It differs from the columnar one in that the piles are either screwed in / hammered ready, or poured into the formwork and turn out to be monolithic

Disadvantages: It is difficult to predict its behavior. And both deep and shallow. With a shallow foundation, everything depends on the winter and the degree of saturation of the soil with water, which is impossible to foresee and calculate. With deep laying, there is also a problem: it is not known what is under each of the piles. After all, you cannot do a geological survey at all points. And in those areas where the soil has a complex layered structure, it is quite possible to get into some kind of pocket, because of which the pile will not behave as expected. Also in the case of piles or deep-buried columns, it is necessary to remember the lateral heaving forces. They may well break long and thin piles or poles. Therefore, on problematic soils for piles, a strong formwork (metal, asbestos) is taken and they are also reinforced: in the manufacture of pillars, a steel pipe coated with a primer is inserted inside, around which masonry is carried out. It is also possible to lay reinforcing belts. In the manufacture of bored piles, three or four reinforcement bars are necessarily inserted inside, which add strength to them. Attaching a veranda with your own hands on a pile foundation can be quick and inexpensive, but the risks on heaving soils are high.

Monolithic: tape and slab

If you are going to build a veranda from brick, rubble or other similar heavy materials, and even with heavy cladding, you need a monolithic foundation. You will either have to pour the tape, or make a plate. They are made according to all the rules without any exceptions: with formwork, reinforcement, vibration, etc. Fully tech.

When building such a foundation, it can already be connected with the main one: you will have to make it to the same depth and, most likely, it will behave stably.

Advantages: high reliability and stability. Disadvantages: significant cost and duration of the construction process.

bedding

If the house is located on dry soils or in a region where frost heaving is just a scary tale, if it does not have a plinth, a veranda attached to the house can do without a foundation. In this case, the fertile layer is removed along with the vegetation, the bottom of the pit is rammed, then rubble is poured, rammed, then sand, which is also compacted. Flooring can already be laid on this base: wooden, paving slabs or slabs.

The veranda attached to the house can be without a foundation

One “but” of the racks on which the roof will rest still needs to be strengthened in some way. For them, small piles are made or columns are folded (from about the same depth where they started laying rubble under the flooring).

How thick should the bedding be? It depends, firstly, on the thickness of the fertile layer, and secondly, on the choice of floor covering. If these are wooden boards (as in the photo), you need to choose the layers so that they lie flush with the ground. If you plan to lay paving slabs, you will have to consider its thickness. Although, it can be slightly raised above ground level to separate it from the yard. But then a curb is placed along the edge.

In this photo, an open veranda is attached to the house without a foundation - it is rather a summer canopy with a polycarbonate roof and an open wooden fence

How to attach the rack and bottom harness

Work on the construction of the veranda frame begins after the foundation concrete (if used) has gained some strength. Enough 50% of the calculated, and this at a temperature of + 20 ° C, will occur in 4-5 days. Then, on top of the concrete, in those places where the racks or strapping will be attached, waterproofing is laid in two layers. It can be roofing material, roofing felt, folded twice. You can double coat with bituminous mastic or use other modern materials.

Then there are two ways:

  • fix the racks and then the strapping;
  • first strapping, racks to them.

If the first option is chosen, special holders are inserted into the foundation for racks during pouring. These can be different devices (see photo), but the most convenient is a metal plate in the form of an inverted letter "P", to the bottom of which a stud is welded, which is walled up in the foundation. A rack is inserted into this plate (the end must be treated with an antiseptic), its level is verified, and it is fixed with bolts or nails.

How to fix the racks to the foundation

After all the racks are exposed and fixed, strapping bars are nailed between them.

In the second option, the situation is different: the racks will have to be attached to the harness. The strapping bar is attached first. It is more convenient to do this if studs are embedded in concrete with some step. Then holes are made in the beam in the right places, it is put on studs and fixed with bolts. Then, using one of the methods suggested in the photo, racks are installed.

Options for attaching racks to the strapping beam

Any of these methods does not exclude the use of metal corners. They make the mount more reliable, which is very important in this case. After all, the roof will be held on the racks, and the walls or the fence.

Fastening the lag to the harness

They can be mounted on top of the harness, or on the same level with its upper edge. It is necessary to decide exactly how you will do this at the very beginning of the work: it will depend on what level it will be necessary to attach the support burs to the wall of the house (the height of the lag is taken into account or not). Methods for fixing the floor lag are shown in the photo below.

How to attach the floor logs to the strapping

Veranda roof connection

The veranda attached to the house is usually covered with the same type of roofing as scrap. There may be several options and the organization of the adjoining of the roof depends on how and to which wall you attach it. If the roof will be a continuation of the roof slope of the house, you need to splice two truss systems. In this case, they say that the roof of the veranda adjoins the roof of the house.

Then the procedure is:

  • Top trims are attached to the veranda posts.
  • Transverse ceiling beams are nailed to the strapping. The ceiling is then hemmed to them.
  • The long rafter legs of the house are shortened. They should not protrude beyond the wall.
  • The rafters of the veranda are made from a planed board, which are cut off at an angle from the side of the roof so that they adjoin the existing ones (see the photo below). To make it easier to work, you can make a template, according to which you can then prepare the rafters on the ground. Rafter legs are attached to the system of the house through nails, you can put metal reinforcing plates on the side.
  • To increase the rigidity of the structure, spacers (anti-snow supports) are installed between the rafters of the house and the extension. They are shown in the photo explaining the design.

If the width of the veranda is more than 2 meters or heavy roofing material will be used, spacers are installed so that the support beam does not sag. It is better not to nail them on the side, namely, to insert them by surprise between the ceiling beam and the rafter leg.

In order to prevent sagging of the roof, spacers are installed between the ceiling beams and rafters.

More often it turns out that the roof of the veranda attached to the house adjoins the wall. In this case, a strobe is made in the wall, a special wall profile is laid into it, which is laid on the roofing with the second side. The place where it adjoins the wall is sealed with sealant.

The second option differs only in the shape of the wall profile: it can be made independently from a sheet of roofing iron. This design is distinguished by the presence of a beam, which allows you to move the bend away from the wall of the house and cover up possible errors when laying the roofing material at the junction. Also, in this embodiment, the apron is not attached directly to the wall material, but to a beam with a beveled edge mounted in a strobe.

The second option for adjoining the roof of the extension to the wall of the house

Some questions may arise on how to attach the rafters to the outer upper harness, because its dimensions do not allow making cuts, as on a Mauerlat. The usual solution: with the help of corners (see photo). Instead of corners, small cross-section bars can be used.

Maybe not the most elegant solution, but reliable. After everything is covered with roofing from above, the lining will be lined from below, they will not be visible.

The dream came true - a house in nature built or bought. At first, under positive impressions, we are ready to put up with minor inconveniences. But over time comes the understanding that something is missing. If it’s raining or bad weather outside, you have to stop close contact with nature and hide inside the house. There you can have breakfast, lunch and dinner. But what about gatherings with family or friends at a table in the fresh air? Then the first thoughts about the terrace come. Scrolling through all sorts of options in my head, the question arises: how to attach a terrace to the house so that it fits organically into the general view of the house and the landscape, and is also comfortable, practical and has become a favorite place for the whole family to relax.

Let's immediately define the concept of "terrace" and its derivatives, so that we can more accurately represent what will be discussed later.

Terrace- an open area (flooring) on ​​a prepared base. The terrace adjoining the house is at the floor level of the first floor of the house. At the same time, it can have a roof (closed), or it can be open or partially closed, i.e. the roof covers only part of the terrace. The fence can be a wooden balustrade, sagging chains, or any other structure. So on the terrace there may not be a fence at all on one or all sides.

Veranda- a special case of the terrace. It is fully fenced or glazed, has a roof. In fact, the veranda is another room in the house, only there is no heating in it. It can be used as a recreation area in summer and as a winter greenhouse in winter. Sometimes even equipped with a bed.

Porch- a small terrace framing only the entrance to the house. Has several steps.

Balcony- a narrow terrace framing the house. Definitely has a fence.

Further in the article, we will talk specifically about the terrace, which is used to be built in our countries for summer holidays and arranging a dining area there. Most often, it is a platform fenced with a parapet with a roof adjacent to the roof of the house. We will consider the veranda only as a special case to clarify the issue of pairing the structure with the house and arranging the foundation.

Design and legalization of the extension of the terrace to the house

Of course, the best option would be to provide for the presence of a terrace at the design stage of the house. Then it can be equipped on a common foundation with the house, which is extremely important for the durability of the structure.

If “the train has already left”, then a new terrace construction project will have to be completed. To do this, you need to contact the relevant architectural organizations. To create a project, it will be necessary to examine the soil on which they are going to put it, take into account the climatic features of the regional area: when the snow melts, the amount of snow cover, the depth of soil freezing, the level of precipitation, and others. Considering that it is necessary to attach a terrace to the house, it will be necessary to carefully examine the condition of the foundation of the house, its wall, to which the terrace will adjoin, take into account the general design of the house and roof.

The project must specify the dimensions, shape of the terrace, height above ground level, materials for the foundation and the terrace itself. All this after carrying out calculations for the strength of the supporting structure.

If you plan to build an open terrace, then permits are not needed. According to the law, a foundation is not even required for such a terrace, since it is considered a temporary structure.

If you want a closed terrace or even a glazed veranda, you can’t do without permits, as this is a redevelopment. With design documentation for the terrace, you must contact the chief architect of the area. After obtaining permission and completion of construction, it is necessary to make changes to the documentation for the entire house. Without this, you will not be able to sell it, and your heirs may have problems with re-registration of housing.

Choosing a place for a terrace

If you decide to attach a terrace to the house with your own hands, the first step is to decide on the place. Not only the aesthetic appearance of the whole house will depend on the correct choice of the location of the terrace, but also the convenience of the terrace, its protection from the wind and the scorching sun, as well as ease of access.

Most often, the terrace is attached to that wall, where is the front door. Thus, it performs the functions of both a porch, a vestibule, and a recreation area, if space permits.

It may also be located around the perimeter of the house, having an exit from only one wall or several, depending on the design of the house.

If you do not tie the location of the terrace to the front door, you can equip it from the kitchen or living room and equip the exit from these rooms straight to the terrace. So it will be convenient to take out dishes with food and invite guests to relax in the bosom of nature.

To hide the terrace from the eyes of passers-by, it is located on the back of the house, i.e. overlooking the garden. In spring and summer, the fragrance of trees, the noise of foliage and the “flowering” of insects will lull you to sleep and create favorable conditions for a good rest from the bustle of the city.

In the northern regions, it is better to have a terrace south side of the house, equipping it with a roof or canopy to protect it from the scorching sun and rain. You can also just shade it with tall sprawling trees.

In the southern regions with a hot climate, a terrace for relaxation is made from the east and even on the north side of the house in absolute shadow.

An important factor to consider when designing a terrace is Rose of Wind. This is especially true in regions with strong winds. The extension must be positioned so that the ledges of the house protect it from gusty winds.

As you can see, the choice of location is even more important than the material from which the terrace will be made. Since its convenience depends entirely on many factors listed above.

What shape and size to build a terrace to the house

Dimensions terraces depend on several factors. The first is the amount of space that can be used for it. Not always the site is so large that you don’t even have to think about it. The second is what the terrace will be used for. In order for two people to pass each other, the width of the terrace must be at least 120 cm. To arrange the dining area, it is necessary to take into account the number of people permanently residing in the house and calculate the space for a table and chairs, armchairs or benches. A table for 6 people occupies 4 m2, if you add free space for aisles and furniture, you get 7.5 m2. If it is planned to place an additional recreation area, then a place for sun loungers or sofas is calculated. At the same time, it is important to properly equip the passages so that it is convenient to move within the zones and between them.

The form terraces can be completely different: square, rectangular, round, broken, polygonal. Which one to equip depends on personal preferences and free space. For arranging an open terrace, the form will not create any difficulties at all. But for a closed one, it is necessary to provide a comfortable and functional roof. If the terrace has an unusual shape, glass elements that are now fashionable can be used to equip the roof.

What materials to use for the construction of the terrace

For an extension of the terrace to the house, the price depends directly on the size of the terrace, its shape, foundation and materials that will be used. We have already talked about the shape and size, now we will discuss the materials.

The main rule when choosing a material for a terrace is to harmonize with the overall concept of the house. It is not necessary to use the same material.

For example, if brick house, in the terrace it is possible to provide only some elements made of bricks: columns supporting the roof, or decorative elements. And the floor and balustrade of the terrace can be wooden.

If a wooden house, from a log house or a log, the terrace will have to be enclosed with the same material, otherwise it will “stand out” from the overall picture.

Although there is an exception - glass roof and glass railings will look neutral and next to a tree, and next to a brick or stone.

Forged fences suitable only for buildings made of stone or brick.

Flooring is best made of wood. But if you have doubts about its strength and ability to withstand increased loads or sharp heels, it can be covered with ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware on top. It is also worth considering the arrangement of flooring from special materials that can withstand severe frosts, precipitation and frequent temperature changes.

The frame of the terrace can be made of wooden beams, metal structures or a combination of brickwork, channels and wooden beams. For the roof frame, treated wood is almost always used. It is better to make the roof directly from the same material as the roof of the house. The exception is the glass roof - it can be equipped without regard to the material of the main building.

To connect or not to connect the terrace with the house

This question torments many and for good reason. Quite often there are situations when a terrace or a veranda on its own foundation is rigidly connected to the house, and over time cracks appear in the construction of the veranda or, even worse, at home. This happens for a reason.

Under the load from the weight of the structure, the soil shrinks, the greatest intensity is immediately after the completion of construction, and over time it decreases, reaching the minimum values ​​per year. The magnitude and rate of shrinkage directly depend on the weight of the structure and the soil on which it stands. Soil shrinkage under the house (main building) will be much greater than under the terrace. The house and terrace will settle over time, but at different speeds and to different depths. If the terrace is rigidly connected to the house, part of the weight load of the house will move onto it, which will lead to cracks and destruction of not only the terrace structure, but also the walls and foundation of the house.

Light terraces on separate foundations they are not attached to the house in order to exclude the influence of the settling of these objects on each other. For a connection that will not interfere with the subsidence and movement of structures, expansion joints are used. This facilitates the possibility of mutual movements.

Covered verandas, which are used as an additional room, are attached to the house with elements that allow structures to move up to a certain point. First of all, the veranda is built on a foundation, buried to the depth of freezing of the soil, with all the necessary bedding. If possible, join to the existing foundation, but not too rigid. For the correct connection of structures, mandatory calculations are carried out.

If the walls of the veranda are wooden, they are attached to the walls of the house using the tongue and groove system. On the beams of the house and the veranda, spikes and grooves are cut out, allowing the buildings to settle in a vertical plane. In this case, cracks do not appear.

If the walls of the veranda are brick, they are connected to the walls of the house with the help of special anchors or brackets in such a way as to ensure the possibility of mutual movement. A year or two later, when a crack or gap appears, it is sealed. It will not increase further.

When building a full-fledged veranda, the best option would be to equip it with the house on the same foundation. This will help avoid many problems in the future.

Terrace foundation

The type and severity of the foundation for the terrace depends on the material from which it is planned to build the terrace. But this is not the only criterion. No less important are the properties of the soil.

So a terrace on a surface foundation can break away from the main house after winter frosts. This happens due to the "swelling" of the soil. It is not for nothing that the builders repeat on every corner that the foundation must be built at the depth of soil freezing. If this advice is neglected, in winter the water in the ground under the terrace will freeze, and in the spring it will begin to thaw and “lead” the terrace in an unknown direction. An entire wall might even collapse.

Therefore, the first rule - no matter what the foundation is - columnar or tape, it the depth should be below the freezing level of the soil.

For light wooden terrace, yes, in principle, any terrace, you can build a columnar foundation. To do this, trenches are dug into which pillow materials are poured in layers: crushed stone, sand, gravel. Then the formwork for pouring concrete is made from above. This is how concrete pillars are made. Depending on the properties of the soil, brick support posts can be made on some of them.

Glazed verandas it is desirable to build on strip foundations. If it is planned to connect it to the house, then the foundation of the house is first dug out, then reinforcement is mounted in it and mates with the new foundation, which should be, as it were, a continuation of the main one. The width should be equal to the width of the wall of the house. Here it is extremely important to correctly perform the calculations, since the soil directly next to the house will already be “seated”, but not a little further from it. And their properties are different, and the intensity of future shrinkage too. It is better to entrust such calculations to professionals.

Even if you came up with the idea to equip the terrace simply on a concrete slab, it also cannot be laid directly on the grass. Be sure to remove the top layer of soil under it and fill in materials that pass water well, for example, crushed stone. The slab itself should be reinforced from above and below so that it can withstand uneven loads.

In conclusion, I would like to note: do not neglect the calculations for the construction of the terrace, especially the foundation. If you want the structure to last for a long time and not deform over time, entrust the project to an architect, and choose materials taking into account the climatic conditions in your region.

Terrace extension to the house: photos - examples

A house outside the city is the place where you can have a good rest from everyday worries and relax. Therefore, each owner of a suburban area is trying to make it as comfortable and beautiful as possible. Creating a veranda is one of the most popular ways to ennoble a site. This building favorably expands the residential area, and with the right approach to building a veranda with your own hands, you can not heat it and spend time at any time of the year.

What is a veranda

This is a closed or open terrace, which is located along the facade of a residential building. This room was built into the house initially or added later. As a rule, it is not heated. It can have glazed windows and doors (veranda) or do without them (terrace). The design of the veranda should match the general appearance of the house and be in the same style with it. For example, it is possible to build a brick veranda for a wooden house, but it will be ugly. It is better to make it out of wood too. The roof is usually made single-sided for the veranda, using the same roofing material as for the roof of the house.

One of the defining moments of the overall appearance of the terrace is the location and shape of windows and doors. The shape and patterns of the bindings of window and door openings will help you make your extension original and beautiful.

Photo: room options from various materials

Cozy veranda Simple open veranda under construction
Spacious bright veranda Outdoor terrace Veranda with equipped lounge View of the veranda from the street

Modern verandas are rooms that have not been cluttered with work clothes and household supplies for a long time. Now these are full-fledged premises and extensions of a residential building, the arrangement of which is approached with all seriousness and responsibility.

Design is the most important stage in the construction of any structure, including the veranda. At this stage, you need to create a sketch, which will depict a general view of the structure by hand, and a detailed project drawing, indicating all the measurements and necessary materials for construction. The more detailed the project is, the easier it will be to build later. After all, you will know in advance how long, for example, a board you need for a particular element, as well as how many such boards you need. The project will help you calculate the amount of material and the approximate cost of building a veranda.

There are many projects for building an open veranda

If you do not have drawing skills, then you can peep the project in open sources or order an individual one from specialists.


How to make a foundation

To build a veranda, it is enough to erect a columnar or tape base, the depth of which will be equal to the depth of the base of the house. Experts do not recommend connecting the main foundation with the base of the extension due to differences in weight. They will not shrink in the same way and this can lead to deformations of the extension. Leave a gap of 30–40 mm between these two bases.

The choice of the right type of foundation depends on what material the extension will be made of and on the characteristics of the soil. For example, for the construction of heavy brick outbuildings, it is better to make a strip foundation, and for wooden lungs, a columnar base is enough.

Tape base: step by step instructions for building

The dimensions of the foundation for the extension should be the same as the dimensions of the base of the house.


In order for the foundation to be strong, it needs to be “watered” at first. Especially on hot days. Moisten it with water and cover with plastic wrap. Yes, it won't crack.

columnar base

For light timber or polycarbonate verandas, the construction of a columnar foundation is ideal. The recommended depth of pits for poles is 800–1100 mm. For a small veranda (3x4 meters), it will be enough to install supporting structures only in the corners. But for greater reliability, it is better to play it safe and make intermediate pillars. The distance between the supports should ideally be 80–100 centimeters.

The parameters of the pillars must be carefully calculated

  1. Dig holes for support structures. Using a drill will greatly facilitate the task.
  2. Make a sand and gravel pillow for the pillars. Sand with a layer of 150-200 mm, and crushed stone 100 mm. Pack each layer well.
  3. Make a wooden formwork and lay a reinforcing network.
  4. Pour the concrete to the full depth of the pit and let it harden.
  5. After hardening, coat the concrete structures with bitumen.
  6. Remove the formwork and cover all cracks with sand.
  7. The ground part of the foundation is made of bricks. The height of their construction should be equal to the height of the base of the house.

Draft floor

It is better to proceed with the construction of the subfloor immediately after the construction of the foundation, having previously waterproofed the base with roofing material in 2 layers.

The floor can be made of wood and concrete. The first option is better suited for a wooden frame veranda, the second for a massive brick one.

How to build a wooden

Subfloor device

  1. Fix the lower trim to the base with anchors. The strapping elements are connected to each other with the help of galvanized nails.
  2. Attach wooden floor logs to the strapping bars at a distance of 500 mm from each other.
  3. Fill the space between them with expanded clay.
  4. Using an uncut board or plywood about 5 cm thick, build a deck that is attached to the floor joists with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

Create a concrete

  1. Fill the base with sand, the layer of which should be 100 mm.
  2. Then comes a layer of expanded clay.
  3. Lay a reinforcing net, the bars of which are 6-8 mm, and the cells are 250x250 mm.
  4. Pour the concrete mixture.
  5. The thickness of the floor screed should be 3-5 cm.

It is important that the concrete surface is perfectly flat. Use the building level to control this during work.

Wooden veranda: project and incarnation

Option for a light wooden veranda

Wood is the most popular and ancient building material. This material does not give up its positions even with the advent of new species.

In principle, building a veranda based on a wooden frame is a simple process. Almost anyone can do this job. Having correctly mounted the frame racks and protecting them with shields or clapboard, a good veranda comes out.

Wood is an environmentally friendly raw material, with a beautiful appearance. It does not have a lot of weight, which greatly facilitates the work in the fundamental part of the building.

But, it is a combustible material. Therefore, sources of fire, such as a barbecue, must be located at a safe distance from such a structure.

In addition, wooden structures need additional treatment with antiseptics, because the external environment and weather conditions do not work very well on this material.

For the construction of the frame of the veranda, use only high-quality wooden beams, the cross section of which is 10x10 centimeters.

  1. Make grooves in the bars of the lower trim, where vertical supports will be installed in increments of 0.5 meters.
  2. Install the supports by fastening them with staples and screws or nails.

    Mounting options for uprights

  3. In order to make a shed roof, vertical bars must be made of different heights. This means that where the bottom of the roof will be, the timber should be 500 mm below the place where the top of the roof will be.
  4. Build the top trim from a beam with a slope for a pitched roof.
  5. After you have made the top harness, you can install the rafters for the roof. Make an additional girder near the roof slope, attaching it to all supports with anchor bolts. If the roof is supposed to be heavy, then it is better to add transverse boards to the timber strapping. And attach racks and subcoms to them. Thus, the truss system will be reliable for any type of roof.
  6. Rafters are mounted at a distance of 500 mm. For them, a bar with a section of 10x20 cm is used.
  7. The next step is framing the frame. Inside you can use lining, outside siding. Between them you need to put waterproofing and heat-insulating materials. Don't forget window and door openings.

    Wooden frame sheathing

How to attach brick or foam blocks

Beautiful brick porch

This is already a major building. If you do the work according to the rules, then in such a building it will be comfortable at any time of the year. In the summer heat it will be cool there, and in the cold of winter it will be warm. The brick veranda is distinguished by its durability, fire safety and unpretentiousness in care.

But it also has a drawback. Namely, heaviness. Therefore, its construction requires a strong foundation.

When the foundation and subfloor are ready, laying can begin. Spoon masonry is distinguished, in which the total thickness of the walls is 12 cm; bonded masonry, with walls of 25 cm and chain masonry, with walls of 38 cm.


If year-round use of the veranda is expected, then 2 rows of masonry can be made and waterproofing and heat-insulating materials can be placed between them.

You can leave a single clutch. Then the insulation and waterproofing are laid between the brickwork and the material of the inner wall cladding.

Outside, finishing work is at the discretion of the owner: it can be a facing brick, it is allowed to sheathe the building with polycarbonate.

Calculation of the number of bricks for the terrace (table)

Masonry size Length Width Height Qty
brick
excluding
thickness
mortar
seam, pcs.
Qty
brick
with considering
thickness
mortar
seam 10 mm, pcs.
1 m 3 single brickwork250 120 65 512 394
1 m 3 thickened brickwork250 120 88 378 372
1 m 2 masonry in half a brick
(masonry thickness 12 cm)
250 120 65 61 51
1 m 2 masonry in half a brick
(masonry thickness 12 cm)
250 120 88 45 39
1 m 2 masonry in 1 brick
(masonry thickness 25 cm)
250 120 65 128 102

(masonry thickness 38 cm)
250 120 65 189 153
1 m 2 masonry in one and a half bricks
(masonry thickness 38 cm)
250 120 88 140 117
1 m 2 masonry in 2 bricks
(masonry thickness 51 cm)
250 120 65 256 204
1 m 2 masonry in 2 bricks
(masonry thickness 51 cm)
250 120 88 190 156
1 m 2 masonry in 2.5 bricks
(masonry thickness 64 cm)
250 250 65 317 255
1 m 2 masonry in 2.5 bricks
(masonry thickness 64 cm)
250 250 88 235 195

Roof: ceiling trim and other structural elements

To complete the work on the roof, you need to build a crate, lay layers of insulation and cover the surface with finishing roofing material.

The crate can be made solid for roll materials or sparse for sheet roofing. The first is made from OSB boards. They need to be attached to the rafters, leaving a gap of 10 mm. The sparse lathing is done in increments recommended by the manufacturers of the selected roof. Usually it is about 300-350 mm. The crate is attached to the rafter part with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

Veranda roof

Lay mineral wool in the cells between the beam of the crate part. This will be the insulation. Lay a waterproofing material on top, which is attached to the crate with staples of a construction stapler.

For a solid version of the crate, the heat-insulating material is laid inside the veranda, fixing it with the help of transverse rails added to the crate.

The last stage is the laying of roofing material. Ideally the same as the roof of the house.

Final work

Mount the logs of the finished floor to the wooden subfloor, between which it is necessary to lay thermal insulation. Finished floor boards are laid on top, which can be painted or varnished.

Insulate the floor of the veranda, taking into account the climatic conditions of the region

Concrete floors can be finished in the same way as wooden floors. And you can send it at your discretion, for example, put linoleum or tiles.

The last stage of construction is the installation of windows, doors and landscaping of the veranda. The better it will be equipped in the country, the more pleasant it will be to live there in the summer.

It is not necessary to extend additional electrical wiring to the veranda. Here you can use an extension cord that extends from the house, and lighting fixtures are connected to it.

Video: do-it-yourself scheme for erecting a corner veranda

Almost anyone can handle the construction of a veranda. This is a great place to relax, which is simply necessary for a summer cottage. Do not doubt the need for this extension. You will definitely enjoy spending evenings in a cozy room on the veranda. Good luck!

Attaching a veranda to wooden houses with your own hands is not at all difficult. It is quite possible to cope with the installation of the structure on your own, and the result will be no worse than that of professionals.

The veranda is a multifunctional space.

As a rule, it is used as a summer building. It not only increases the usable area, but also makes the house more comfortable.

In the photo below you can see a variety of options for verandas attached to the house with your own hands.

You can easily and quickly attach the structure to the house with your own hands, observing certain rules.

Firstly, it is desirable to use wood as the main frame material. It is cheap in terms of budget and easy to install.

Secondly, the terrace must stand on a monolithic, strip or column foundation.

Let's try with our own hands to properly attach a wooden veranda on a columnar foundation to the main house.

The photo below shows an image of such a veranda.

Preparatory work

  • study the design of the house;
  • draw up a project and draw a preliminary drawing of the future structure;
  • select materials and calculate the estimate;
  • take into account the type of terrain and soil;
  • choose a foundation suitable for the area and the building;
  • select the mounting option.

Only after carrying out all these works, you can proceed directly to the installation of the attached veranda.

Foundation installation

If the house has already been built, and the installation of the veranda is done later, then installing a columnar foundation is the best option.

To do this, we dig holes at small intervals measuring 300 mm by 300 mm and about a meter deep (in order not to dig with your own hands, you can use a drill).

At the bottom of the pits we put a layer of sand about 20 cm (for sandy soil, it is necessary to lay a layer of crushed stone and shed it with hot bitumen).

We mix cement with sand, pour the solution, filling the pits to the brim. After the foundation has hardened well, we begin to lay the pillars of bricks.

We make the tables low so that the floor level of the terrace is at least 20 cm lower than the level of the house.

We fill the gaps between the pillars with expanded clay, from the outside we coat the bricks with concrete mortar - this will protect the base from moisture.

After the whole structure is completely dry, you can start installing the frame. The photo below shows a site with a finished foundation.

Frame installation

The construction of the frame part of the structure, which is adjacent to the house, takes the most time out of the entire construction and is a rather difficult task.

It would be right to study this process in as much detail as possible:

  • First you need to make the bottom harness. We lay wooden beams on brick pillars, connecting their corners into a “half-tree”. Fastening can be done both with nails and spikes, having made through holes before that;
  • On the entire lower harness, we cut or hollow out the grooves for the lags, we will lay the floor on them in the future. At the same time, we cut out the grooves in the form of cubes with equal sides of 5 cm, the distance between them should be at least 0.5 meters. So it is necessary to process the entire perimeter, then racks will be installed in these grooves;
  • On the wooden bars of the racks we make spikes of the appropriate size (we expect them to enter the grooves with tension). We install the racks strictly vertically and fasten them for reliability with the help of nails and staples;
  • When fastening wooden racks, do not forget about installing a transverse beam (sill beam) and reinforce the fastening with spikes. The transverse beam serves not only as a support for the window, but also increases the rigidity and stability of the attached elements;
  • At the top of the racks, we mount the upper trim using nails, spikes or staples and cut grooves in it for the rafters;
  • We fix the rafters on a horizontal bar (girder) using nails and spikes. The height in this case is calculated so that the structure under construction not only fits as closely as possible to the house, but can also go under the roof slope;
  • We finish the installation of the frame by fastening the extreme racks with anchors.

At first glance, installing a terrace frame with your own hands seems rather difficult. But don't be afraid. It is difficult only in the first moments, and then experience comes and the process goes like clockwork.

Wall mounting

We make wall sheathing on the outside, starting from the bottom garter and rising to the window beam.

The sheathing process from the outside is due to the fact that, as a rule, the terrace walls do not require additional insulation, since the design belongs to the summer version of the buildings.

Sheathing is done using laminated chipboard sheets, wagon boards or wooden shields.

If you plan to use the premises in winter, then we sheathe the structure from the inside, while using insulation. On the racks from the inside of the terrace, we cut grooves about 2 cm deep.

We install the sheathing material and fix it on the inside with a bar with nails.

The photo below shows a veranda adapted (insulated) for the winter period.

Installing the roof and floor

As a rule, the veranda is distinguished by a shed roof, more gentle than the roof of the main building.

Let's learn how to install the roof and floor with your own hands:

  • We install a dense crate to the rafters (you can take uncut boards to save the budget calculated for the project);
  • On the crate we make flooring from roofing material or take any other roofing material (if you want to additionally protect the space from moisture, then you need to put a layer of waterproofing material);
  • When laying the floor with our own hands, we nail edged boards about 3-4 cm thick on the logs (we use an antiseptic to process the boards, this will protect the floor from rotting and fungi);
  • Next, we paint the boards or cover them with a floor covering (for example, linoleum).

After installing the frame, mounting the roof will not cause you any problems. The photo below shows the assembled frame structure.

Installation of windows and doors

We insert windows into the space between the window sill beam and the upper trim. We adjust the line of window blocks to the same level and fix them with wedges or nails.

We install wooden frames in them and insert glass (if it is planned to install plastic or sliding windows, then they are mounted according to a certain technology, depending on the option chosen).

The door frame should fit the size of the doorway (when mounting the walls, you must not forget about this). We fix the opening with the help of 2 upper anchors.

Align it horizontally, focusing on the level of the floor, then align it vertically, focusing on the racks of the door frame. After we carry out the fastening of the lower anchors.

Bottom line: here we made the installation of the veranda structure for a wooden house. As you can see, all the work can be done by hand and the result will be at a good level.

In the photo below you see images of verandas built using the same technology with your own hands.


It will be right if you do not attach the terrace to the house, but only make an extension. There are 2 reasons for this:

If the foundations near the house and the veranda were installed at different times (in this case, this is the case, since we attached the veranda to an already standing house), then over time, they will give a different drawdown.

If at the same time the veranda is fixed to the wall of the house, then it may warp. In rare cases, instead of skew, there are free spaces between the house and the veranda.

In this case, they can be removed with mounting foam.

A terrace that is not attached to the main building is considered a separate building and does not belong to the house, which means that it is not covered by the payment for living space.

In addition, if you carry out fastening, then after that you will have to make changes to the plan of the house, which causes a lot of problems when selling.

Therefore, it is worth thinking several times before deciding to fix the veranda to the house. Based on this, we considered the option of building without such fasteners.

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