The correct cut of a rose flower. Summer pruning roses

The magnificent flowering of the rose is measured out for its time, after which the shoots crown the fruits in the spirit of a la wild rose. If you do not intervene in the natural course of things, rose bushes will stand until autumn. But it is worth shortening the flower shoots and, lo and behold, after a while they grow back. A little later, luxurious flowers reappear on them, returning us to the beginning of summer.

Why prune roses after flowering

After flowering, the roses must be cut off, or rather, shortened the shoot on which there was a flower or flower brush. As a result, the plant will switch from the fruiting program to the regeneration program. The “spent” inflorescences left on the bush look ugly, so they are cut off until mid-July-early August.

The fruits of the rose are left for the winter, but in the summer it is better to cut them off - they look painfully sloppy

From the dormant bud located at the base of the leaf, a new flowering shoot will start to grow. A repeated, but already artificially caused, wave of flowering will begin. The cut is made over the external kidney. Sometimes they talk about a cut above a leaf - this is the same as above a kidney, because it is located at the base of the leaf. The cut point should be about 5 mm above the bud (or leaf petiole).

A cut above the lateral outer bud prevents thickening of the bush

This technique improves the ventilation of the bush, is the prevention of fungal diseases. The bush becomes more magnificent, the shoots do not get mixed up, the flowers do not rub against each other and the petals do not fly around ahead of time.

Thickening shoots will grow from the lateral inner buds, directed inside the bush

They also shorten blind shoots, which for some reason do not have a growth bud at the end.

This blind shoot has a growth bud damaged by a pest, so this shoot has no growth prospects.

They grow to a certain length and stop developing. Such branches are shortened above the first external lateral bud located below.

A blind shoot is pruned over the first developed lateral bud

To determine the blind shoots, the bush is carefully sorted along the branch. On some types of roses, the apical buds are large, and on some they are small, so they may not be immediately noticeable.

These shoots have terminal buds

There are several types of roses that differ in the type of flowering. Depending on this, the shoot is shortened to different heights.

hybrid tea roses

This species is characterized by long stems, ending, as a rule, with one flower (although there are varieties with brushes). There are no side branches on the shoots.

Tea roses and floribunda roses are pruned above the 3-4th leaf from the bottom

The place of the cut is determined by moving upwards from the base of the shoot - the cut is made over the 3rd–4th leaf.

Although the hybrid tea rose and floribunda are pruned low, new shoots have time to grow and bloom.

Floribundas bloom like hybrid tea, but not with one flower, but with a brush. Both types are cut in the same way.

The floribunda rose is also cut low.

Video: hybrid tea rose pruning

Features of pruning climbing roses

Detachment climbing roses consists of two main types - ramblers and climbings, or climbers. Without getting into the wilds of the classification of both, we will consider a typical pruning for each of the species.

Roses rambler

In rambler-type climbing roses, the first flowers open on last year's lateral shoots, after which the baton is intercepted by the current year's shoots. Thus, flowering is continuous.

Ramblers are great for decorating the walls of the house.

Pruning is done only on last year's shoots: the cut is made over 5–6 leaves below the dry inflorescence. The shoots of the current year are left to bloom, to form fruits, in a word, to ripen. To enhance the formation of lateral flower-bearing branches, the top of a young lash can be pinched 5–7 cm.

Video: pruning climbing roses rambler

climbers

Climber roses have shoots 3 m or more long, covered with large single flowers or flower clusters along the entire length.

Beautiful climbers - not a word to say, not a pen to describe

summer pruning consists in shortening the main shoot by 1/3 of its length, which contributes to branching and re-blooming. On the remaining shoot, dry inflorescences are removed.

Climbing rose shoots are shortened and freed from dry flowers

Correct completion of pruning - top dressing

After pruning, the rose must be fed. To do this, use the following options:

• special fertilizer in accordance with the instructions;
• herbal infusion - 1-2 liters of infusion per 10 liters of water;
• fermented chicken droppings or cow, horse manure - 1 liter per 10 liters of water.

Timing for pruning

Most roses bloom in June. Florists have enough time for pruning with all the ensuing circumstances. But if the first flowering, for some reason - weather, pests, diseases, has shifted to the second half of summer, it is undesirable to carry out summer pruning. Because the plant will not have enough time for new flower shoots to mature.

The first snow did not harm the roses, but the frost would have killed both the flowers and the unripe shoots.

If the region is characterized by early first frosts, young shoots will suffer first. Therefore, roses that have blossomed out of time are not pruned. Fruits form on them and in this form the bush hibernates.

My mistakes and achievements

I have been growing eight varieties of roses for a long time, seven of which are multi-colored and one is climbing. The names of the varieties have been forgotten, and I confess that I only recently learned what climbers or floribundas are. For a long time, pruning was carried out on a whim, it is surprising that all my “girls” are still alive and bloom beautifully. The main mistake was to pinch off spent flowers. After that, I was tormented by the question, why do the remains of the pedicels turn black, turning into something gangrene-like?

Leaving the pedicels was a big mistake

I didn’t always pay attention to where the shoot was cut off - above the kidney or where it was convenient to reach. New shoots, of course, grew, but the protruding stump looked sad.

The shoot was cut off at an arbitrary place between the buds, but not above the bud

Incorrect pruning (not pinching) is not so catastrophic, new flowering shoots will grow. But still, the heart is sweeter when the pruning is done correctly. It seems that rose bush full of gratitude, and the twig, crowned with a sharp knob, is in a hurry to grow and express gratitude with a fragrant flower.

Either I guessed it, or I became smarter, but the cropping was done correctly

Summer pruning roses after flowering will be the highest manifestation of your love for her. It won't be long before you take a retaliatory step, and charming flowers will bloom again in your garden.

From correct pruning roses depends not only on the beauty of their flowering, but also on the health of the bush, as well as the duration of its life. Of course, in old parks, no one cuts these plants for decades, and they feel good, but such tangled thickets look completely unaesthetic. And there are not so many places in most private gardens, so you can’t do without pruning roses. Experienced gardeners know that pruning small ones is relatively easy, but working with larger specimens is not a pleasant task. The thorns cling and scratch, the long shoots are intertwined in such a way that it is very difficult to pull them out individually, and some of them do not give in at all, no matter how hard you pull them. It is known that there are garden roses that have never been touched by a knife or pruner. But also in vivo the rose is subjected to "natural" pruning: caterpillars eat leaves and tops of shoots, roe deer feast on soft stems, depriving the rose bush of the opportunity to bloom. Various animals eat and damage the shoots, and sometimes the plant dies as a result of a forest fire. However, the garden is a creation of man, and it must correspond to his ideas, no matter what they are in each individual case. For a rose, this means that it does not have to grow through the impenetrable jungle of rotten bushes, infected and infested with pests. On the contrary, in the garden, these plants are expected to bloom intensively and meet certain standards of beauty. Therefore, you simply have to take care of the crops. In addition, garden roses in a flower garden have little in common with wild-growing related species.

About when it is better and how to prune roses in the garden correctly, you will receive detailed information in this material.

Should roses be pruned and when is the best time to do so?

Naturally, overzealous pruning will not lead to anything good. It is necessary to cut roses, but this should not become an end in itself. Pruning by itself is not needed. It only makes sense in conjunction with a specific purpose. For this reason, roses must be pruned in different time and in various ways. So, when do you need to prune roses to meet all the conditions? Terms when it is necessary to take a pruner or a hacksaw:

• At . Remove damaged shoots and roots to make it easier for the plant to take root in a new place.
• Stimulation of the growth of new shoots in order to form the maximum possible number of new flowers. Old and dead woody stems should not interfere with the growth of new, fresh shoots.
• Prevention or prophylaxis of diseases, pests.
• If you want to influence the flowering period or achieve a certain form of growth.
• If the rose grows unevenly or if the plant is damaged: fracture or frost action. Regulatory pruning will help you get the plant into proper shape and keep it healthy.
• Formation of root shoots on a grafted rootstock during the growing season. Root growth must be removed.
• If you need roses for .
• If there is not enough space in the garden.
• If you have purchased a garden that has not been looked after for a long time. Perhaps roses grow there that have not been cut for many years, and you want to return them to their former aristocracy.

So, no one has any doubts about whether it is necessary to cut the roses. Optimal time pruning roses cannot be determined by the calendar. On the one hand, it is necessary to cut in strictly certain time, on the other hand, the ideal moment can be suggested external factors. Fortunately, nature offers many options. When deciding on an individual basis the question of when to prune roses, it should be remembered that this is done not at the final stage of the plant's life, but at its beginning. Pruning stimulates the further planned development of the plant. You can prune roses in spring in early March or even mid-April. In any case, before cutting a garden rose, the moment should be chosen so as to protect the plant from possible severe frosts. It is because of them that roses often die, especially if they were cut too late last fall. If the weather after pruning is warm, this will provoke the active growth of fresh shoots. And if frost hits, then active fresh shoots, like the plant itself, may die. But the reason for the death or damage of the plant is not its weak frost resistance, but untimely pruning. To prune roses correctly, as I advise experienced gardeners, remove old inflorescences and root shoots will have to be continuous. Timely removal of old inflorescences provokes the early appearance of new ones. If wild-growing shoots are cut off or cut off in a timely manner, the plant will not suffer much and will not spend extra energy on restoring health. And how to prune garden roses once blooming varieties? In this case, it is recommended to wait until the end of the flowering period. In this way, conditions can be created so that the fresh main shoots develop in the best possible way next year. A densely leafy plant is more difficult to cut, so such specimens are rarely cut. When pruning cut flowers, you will have to be observant and wait for the moment when the rose standing in the vase reaches its peak of development and resort to some tips so that it stands as long as possible while maintaining freshness. Next, you can familiarize yourself with the rules for pruning roses for beginners, watch a video and how this important agricultural technique is performed.

Rose Pruning Rules for Beginners: Growth Stimulation (with video)

The plant always reacts in a certain way to pruning with a pruner or a hacksaw. Therefore, pruning rose bushes, as practice shows, must be consciously and purposefully. Pruning upsets the balance of the plant's supply of water and nutrients. After pruning, the balance between the volume of roots and the number of above-ground shoots changes. The plant takes time to adjust to the change. After pruning, the buds that were previously in the center or at the base of the shoot - the so-called axillary buds - are at its top.

When learning the rules for pruning roses, novice gardeners should remember that stimulating the growth of shoot tips primarily accelerates the development of axillary buds. And the development of the kidneys located below is inhibited. They may also be at rest.

This state is supported by inhibitors that are formed at the top and go down. As you can see in the photo, after pruning the shoots of roses, the buds that are at the top begin to develop:

In most cases, this impulse affects not only the kidneys at the very top, but also those that are below. In nurseries, experts regularly remove the tops of the shoots in order to grow strong plants with as many shoots as possible. Without such treatment, many varieties would produce only one flowering shoot that grew at the grafting site. The younger the cut shoot, the sooner the buds that used to be at the bottom will germinate and thereby compensate for the loss of the plant. However, inhibitors may further inhibit the growth of fresh shoots from upper buds. In addition, these substances are formed in the leaves, in the axils of which the kidneys are located. This problem is solvable: remove such leaves immediately after pruning. Thus, you will accelerate the growth of fresh shoots.

Please note that the growth rate of fresh shoots depends on the location of the kidney: the farther the sleeping buds are from the top, the slower the fresh shoots grow.

Watch the video of rose pruning for beginners to get a better idea of ​​how this cultivating technique is performed:

In the next section of the article, you can see photos and read the description of pruning roses, depending on the place where these plants are planted.

How to properly prune roses depending on the place of growth

Rules for pruning roses also depend on the place of growth. For example, an important role is played climatic conditions. The maritime climate affects the development of plants differently than the continental one. Growing conditions in the vicinity of Lake Constance are completely different from, for example, at the foot of the Ore Mountains. In areas where severe frosts are common, you must constantly take care that the plants do not freeze. The methods of pruning roses in areas where the last hard frost occurs in February are different from those where the arrival of cold weather in April does not surprise anyone.

Conditions can be different even within the same garden. Some plants receive the optimal amount sunlight, others are forced to survive in the shade of the house or neighboring plants. Naturally, the latter will produce fewer thin shoots, which must be cut shorter in order to achieve more intensive growth. The structure and type of soil also strongly influences the development of Rosaceae: the soil can contain a high concentration of humus, be too wet or rich in nutrients, as well as poor, such as sandy soil. The place of growth determines the purpose of the plant and dictates how to properly prune roses. A climbing rose on the wall of a house needs more care than one that winds along a tree trunk. And not only because caring for a rose on a tree is more difficult.

In the end, the resistance of the plant to diseases and pests depends on the place of growth.

In the event of a particular misfortune, the victim can be helped. To do this, measures should be taken and competently, in a timely manner, cut off the affected parts of the plant, thereby preventing the spread of infection. This photo shows how to prune roses depending on where the bushes grow:

The link between pruning and fertilizing roses

“What is the relationship between fertilizing and pruning?”, you ask. And the answer lies on the surface. Never forget that nature is not content with a simple yes-no principle. Many factors act in combination, complementing each other. One of these factors is top dressing, or supplying the plant with a sufficient amount of nutrients. After pruning, we expect the rapid formation of healthy fresh shoots. For this, the plant needs whole complex relevant nutrients. A novice amateur gardener expects rapid growth immediately after planting, which is very reckless.

First, roots must form, which can provide intensive growth of shoots. If the soil is well prepared, top dressing is optional. Rather, it will hinder growth, as top dressing increases the salt concentration in the soil.

And this negatively affects the water supply of the plant. In addition, a young rose is unlikely to need a rich complex of nutrients, since at this moment its aerial part is not yet developed enough to need enhanced nutrition.

But feeding self-rooted roses with nutrients after spring pruning is very useful, but the degree of feeding should strictly correspond to the size of the plant.

An overdose of nutrients, in particular an overdose of nitrogen, entails the risk of oversized shoots. Perhaps such shoots will grow underdeveloped and become vulnerable to certain diseases. To overcome them, the plant will have to be cut additionally.

The effect of nutrient deficiency is the formation of a small number of thin shoots with small flowers. It is impossible to grow strong and healthy plants on a weak "foundation". You will have to cut the shoots of rose bushes not in the right way, but in such a way that at least some healthy fresh shoots appear on them, that is, shorter and shorter.

How to prune roses: height, direction and shoot length

The next point that you need to understand before you properly prune roses is optimal height, cut direction and shoot length. Roses are pruned differently than others woody plants: shoots are not cut directly above the kidney. Parts of the shoot about 2-3 mm long dry up after pruning. If you cut the shoot directly along the kidney, then the sprouts will not appear at all or will be unviable. It is pointless to wait for something strong and healthy to grow here. The cut point should be no higher than 5 mm from the kidney. A greater distance is unfavorable, since the shoot will dry out a lot, spoil appearance plants and weaken his immune system.

It is necessary to cut in the direction from the kidney and at an angle.

Sometimes it is difficult to find buds on lignified tissue. They are almost impossible to see. Sometimes it makes sense to look on the stem for the place where the base of the leaf once was - it looks like an oblique dark scar. The kidney is located directly above this place. If necessary, the roses are pruned additionally after the buds germinate.

The next relationship concerns the intensity of pruning and the length of the shoot after it. If you cut short and leave few buds on the shoot, then fewer fresh long shoots will grow from them. If you prune less, you will end up with a lot of short, fresh shoots. Using knowledge consciously, it is possible to balance the development of varieties with different growth rates. But to achieve a full balance here will not work.

You can grow a small number of roses on long stems or many flowers on short stems. Pruning also allows you to balance the growth of shoots that do not develop at the same rate, that is, you can stimulate or slow down their growth. Moreover, pruning helps to maintain or limit the development of a particular variety.

Rose pruning tool in the garden

A quality tool is important for both the plant and the gardener. Those who have already had to cut powerful stems know how difficult it can be and understand the value of a good tool. The force applied, the comfort of the instrument, and the load on the tendons are the main criteria for selecting an instrument. The first calluses on your hands will make you wonder if an expensive pruner is the best option in the long run. Young lignified shoots with a soft core are sensitive to stress, and their woody sheath is relatively thin at first. Later, the volume of the core decreases, and the shoots themselves become more massive, especially in roses. Such lignified shoots are much harder, and cutting them without extra effort will not work.

In any case, it is important to use a sharp and well-adjusted tool. A dull pruner cuts inaccurately and injures the plant.

In extreme cases, he tears the bark. The gap between the blades of the secateurs leads to the fact that the tool can jam, and the cut will turn out to be of poor quality. It turns out that forces are spent inefficiently, and, moreover, under such conditions, the cutting part of the tool can simply break, unable to withstand the load. Naturally, this primarily concerns cheap tools.

Quality sharpening of the tool is very important for flawless pruning of plants. When re-sharpening, the blade should be sharpened only on one side - this is how they sharpen most instruments entering the market today. A good secateurs can always be recognized by the quality of sharpening. Its blades remain sharp for long period operation.

An ordinary pruner is not suitable for pruning massive perennial shoots. Here it is better to use garden shears for trimming branches or a hacksaw. However, a regular hacksaw is also hardly suitable for pruning closely spaced shoots. A small folding saw will help here. It fits comfortably in the hand and cuts well.

How to prune roses in spring for rejuvenation (with photo)

It is not uncommon to see roses that have not been cared for for many years. They look like impenetrable wild bushes. The first reaction at the sight of such "beauty" is the desire to dig up the plant and remove it from sight. Many believe that old plants are hopeless, and behind them, that is, health pruning, is a waste of time. If the gardener believes that such a rose has a chance to bloom and please others with beauty, he decides to improve the plant. In addition, it may be a rare variety that costs a lot of money or is no longer sold at all. There are no rules that say that roses should be dug up and replaced with others after they reach a certain age. If roses grow in the optimal place, they retain their beauty and health for many years. Thus, trying to bring a neglected rose into a flowering state makes sense.

How to properly prune old roses in the spring to rejuvenate the bushes? You need to start with the same steps as with spring pruning. Remove dead, diseased, damaged branches first. If you find fresh shoots near the ground, use them to re-form the plant.

Other shoots that may often hurt, cut short or remove completely using a hacksaw. Since all varieties are different, you need to prune them in the spring as much as your experience suggests. Ideally shoots and shorten to 20 cm, shoots of curly and spray roses left longer. It is very difficult to look for axillary buds on old branches. Cutting just by eye will not work here. There are dormant buds on old branches anyway. They wake up after pruning and sprout. Of course, in comparison with young branches, sprouts on old ones appear much later. These photos show how to prune roses in spring:

How to prune roses in the summer after the first bloom (with video)

After the first main bloom, roses either do not bloom at all, or bloom rather poorly. Most varieties re-bloom around the end of August - mid-September, but only after fresh growth has grown for the second time in a year. Repeat flowering is usually luxurious. Depending on the variety, some roses drop petals at the end of this period, while others, on the contrary, old flowers remain on the bush for a long time.

Some double rose petals have a tendency to stick together, especially in rainy, humid weather, which looks very unimportant, especially in comparison with the former beauty.

Before you properly prune roses after the first bloom in the summer, make sure exactly which variety is growing in your area. There are varieties whose flowers or stems quickly dry out and break off, and there are those on which many fruits grow. They are also called "false fruits". They can be wonderful decorations. autumn garden if their color becomes brighter by this time. They also look wonderful in a vase. First of all, this applies to many varieties of spray roses. Depending on taste, one person prefers a garden adorned with fruits, while another desires to see many flowers in his home. Science says that the fruits must be removed for the sake of a stronger flowering, since they cost the plant considerable strength. Roses with fruits:

Climbing rose variety " Bonica 82» the color is pale pink.

Climbing rose variety " La Sevillana» color from orange to purple.

Climbing rose variety " marchenland" pink colour.

Climbing rose variety " Masquerade» the color is yellow, closer to autumn red.

Curly rose variety " New Dawn" pink colour.

Shrub rose variety " Scharlachglut» The color is crimson, with a yellow eye.

Climbing rose variety " The Queen Elisabeth Rose" pink colour.

Watch the video on how to prune roses in the summer after flowering in order to correctly perform all the tricks:

Summer pruning roses for re-blooming

Re-blooming depends on summer pruning of roses. The eyes at the top of the shoot sprout faster than those at the base. Thus, a plant cut short will bloom later than one cut not too short.

In addition, the density of foliage, which the rose needs for assimilation, that is, for nutrition through photosynthesis, does not suffer from light pruning. You will also have to break off the stem that holds the flower.

If you look at it more closely, you can see that the upper kidneys (one or two) are very poorly developed. They are in the axils of the leaves, which are not yet fully formed and have not acquired all the pinnate leaves. These underdeveloped buds are unable to produce fast growing and strong new shoots and thus guarantee flowering. Therefore, along with a flower or inflorescence, you must also remove part of the shoot. Remaining top sheet must be fully formed. In hybrid tea and climbing roses, the leaf should consist of five pinnate leaves. After the first flowering, the shoot must be cut off above the bud, which is located in the axil of the formed leaf.

And how to cut a rose in the summer to see the second bloom faster? To do this, you will have to stimulate the growth of new shoots, that is, cut. We already know that the leaves are needed for photosynthesis, but at the same time, the leaves produce inhibitors that inhibit the premature development of buds in the leaf axils.

Naturally, it is not worth waiting for an early flowering under the influence of inhibitors. In order not to wait until they are neutralized naturally, you can do the following: simply tear off the entire leaf at its base. Thus, the effect of inhibitors coming from the leaf will stop, and the bud will begin to develop faster. Most roses are grafted to the root neck of the stock. Depending on the type, variety and place of planting, shoots constantly appear on the rootstock. If these shoots are not noticed and removed, they grow and overwhelm the grafted variety. Root growth can completely suppress the scion.

It may even happen that one day you will go out into the garden and instead of a rose you will find a wild rose bush there!

As a rule, root shoots are easy to detect. It grows more intensively than the grafted variety and differs from it in the color of foliage and shoots. Root growth in most cases has a lighter color. Its leaves are smaller than those of hybrid tea or climbing roses, and, in addition, they consist of a larger number of pinnate leaves - from seven to nine. In some spray and climbing roses, in particular, once blooming, the difference is more difficult to detect, so you need to peer more closely. Varieties of these groups often have leaves that are very similar in size and number of pinnate leaves to those of the rootstock variety. Shoots growing from the rootstock must be removed regularly. The sooner, the better! When they are still small, they are very easy to cut off. After removal, the place of formation should be cut clean. In most cases, the root growth breaks out from under the ground, from the root. Dig out the place where the overgrowth formed and completely remove the root shoot.

If you cut off the root growth only on the surface of the soil, then for some time it will not be visible, but its underground part will grow intensively, and then a fresh shoot will grow out of it, moreover, with two or three adnexal! Removing it will be much harder.

Please note that the scion is the crown. Everything that grows in the root zone and on the trunk belongs to the rootstock and must be removed. Small shoots on the trunk are easily removed by hand, thicker shoots are cut clean with a knife or secateurs. Usually in nurseries they practice pinching roses with only one shoot at the grafting site. Pinching means shortening the top of the shoot to 3-5 buds. Until the shoots are woody, they can be plucked with your fingers. The softer the shoot, the sooner its reaction to this intervention will follow: it can even start up a few fresh sprouts from the remaining buds. Thus, roses branch more intensively, and this is a reliable foundation for a good plant shape.

This method of provoking branching can also be used later, if, after planting, the sprouts on several shoots develop unevenly.

The reason for this may lie in the fact that strong shoots inhibit the development of weak ones. In order not to harm the morphology of the plant, you will have to shorten strong shoots and be patient, as this measure will delay the moment of the first flowering by several weeks. The wait, however, pays off! After that, the plant will delight you with wonderful flowers for several years. Sometimes it becomes annoying because almost all roses bloom at almost the same time, and the flowering periods themselves are bright, but, alas, short.

Flowers affected by gray mold not only look ugly, but are also sources of infections and diseases. They also need to be removed. In no case do not throw pruned diseased shoots into the compost and, moreover, do not leave them to wallow in the beds. They must be destroyed to prevent the spread of infection.

What to do with blind shoots?

Remontant varieties stably sprout without flowers and inflorescences. Shoots without flowers are called blind. There are many reasons for this: a broken top, insect damage, weather shock, late frosts, lack of sunlight in the shade big trees, nutrient deficiencies, and more. Sometimes a blind flower bud can be seen in advance. First it turns yellow, and then dies off. Some people think that buds on such shoots do not appear at all. But flower buds appear long before the shoot is fully grown in length. Flower buds are formed on fresh sprouts, the length of which does not exceed a few millimeters, that is, even then it is possible to determine whether the shoot will bloom or not.

Besides, who knows what can happen before the kidney opens? In a few weeks, anything can happen from which the kidney can die.

For a long time, as a rule, before the adnexal buds start up healthy shoots, blind shoots are dormant. In order not to wait too long for flowering, you need to shorten the blind shoots immediately after detection. Blind shoots should be pruned in the same way as flowering ones. In the final section of the article, you will find out whether roses should be pruned in the fall for the winter and if there are good reasons to refuse this procedure.

Do I need to prune roses on the site in the fall for the winter?

In fact, it is better not to touch the roses in autumn. Many "correct" amateur gardeners can not resist putting things in order in the autumn garden. Long shoots get underfoot, interfere. In the spring, they still have to be cut, what to expect?

In addition, in autumn it is damp and cold, and everything wants to be done quickly. However, if in the spring it turns out that the roses are damaged, and why is not clear, you should know: the autumn pruning is to blame!

Breeding roses do not know what a dormant period is, unlike, for example, deciduous trees. In competently organized conditions roses grow and bloom all year round. Therefore, it often happens that some garden roses have to be cut at Christmas. The growth process stops only after the onset of cold weather. By the way, the necessary resistance of the plant to frost also begins to develop only at sub-zero temperatures. If you still doubt whether it is necessary to prune roses on garden plot for the winter, then the following are good reasons for refusing the autumn procedure.

If you prune a rose bush in the fall, the same thing happens to the plant as after a spring or summer pruning: the buds are activated, even if it is impossible to notice. In the worst case, if the autumn is warm, the buds may sprout.

It is worth remembering that roses wake up at a minimum positive temperature. BUT winter frosts, sometimes without snow, are dangerous for an unprepared and not hardened plant. Because of this, the rose may die, even if the winter is relatively mild. If a rose endures winter, this does not mean that the risks autumn pruning she is no longer afraid. The rose is one of the first plants that wakes up from winter sleep and sprouts from the buds at the tops of the shoots.

Late frosts during this period are detrimental to the plant.

If a rose bush that was not pruned in the fall sprouts, then late frosts are much less dangerous for it, since these shoots will have to be cut one way or another in the spring. Therefore, in the fall, the bush can only be trimmed, especially if the “disorder” prevents you from sleeping peacefully.

The solution to the question of whether or not to prune roses in the fall does not have of great importance. In any case, only soft, unripe shoots should be removed. By the way, they can bloom. Frosted flowers look like they've been covered sugar icing. A wonderful decoration of the autumn garden, which is hard not to notice.

A slightly different situation with standard roses. Before bending the standard rose to the ground, all soft, unripened parts of the shoots, the remaining flower buds and fruit bases must be removed from the bush in order to prevent the plant from rotting in the winter.

Throughout the year, roses have to be pruned in spring, summer and autumn. Each such pruning pursues strictly defined goals. You will learn how to properly prune plants at different times of the year by watching our video clips.

For pruning you will need: a sharp pruner, a garden hacksaw (when pruning thick shoots), a garden pitch to protect the cuts from infection, and thick, thick gloves to protect your hands.

Pruning roses in spring video tutorials

Spring pruning is the main one, it should be done every year. Pruning techniques may differ markedly for different varieties. After removing the shelter, sanitary pruning is carried out, cutting out all dry and frozen shoots, leaving only living, green ones. The main pruning is carried out when the buds hatch, in the form of a video they tell in detail and show how to do it.

Spring pruning video:

Standard roses. When pruning in spring, try to keep the crown compact. In plants with drooping shoots, thinning of the crown is carried out; in other varieties, shorten the shoots by 15–20 cm. , not in the center of the plant

How to prune standard roses in spring:

Floribunda roses. With a weak spring pruning, the floribunda blooms early, and with a strong one it can linger until August or even September, and the shoots will be very elongated. Therefore, the roses of this group should be cut moderately, by 4 - 6 eyes, this will contribute to good development shoots and will provide abundant summer flowering.

English roses are recommended to be cut before bud break. Late and heavy pruning will delay the flowering period in the same way as with floribunda. Completely remove all weak, thin shoots, they still will not bloom, but will only shade the bush. Old, lignified branches are also removed to allow young shoots to grow.

Rules for spring pruning of English roses and floribunda video:

ground cover roses no systematic, formative pruning required. For most varieties, it is sufficient to remove only dry, damaged branches and occasionally lightly thin out the bushes.

Should I prune ground cover roses?

Pruning roses in the summer after flowering video lesson

Summer pruning is primarily the removal of flowering flowers, as well as blind, weak shoots growing inside the bush. The same error occurs everywhere: only one flower is removed, and the stem is not touched. In this case, repeated flowering occurs very slowly or does not occur at all.

When the rose begins to fade in summer, you need to cut the flower with part of the stem. Immediately below the flower, the leaves consist of three leaves, and a little lower are the cinquefoils. So, the cut is made half a centimeter above the sheet consisting of five sheet plates. For correct formation bush, cut off the shoot above the bud located on the outside.

On the bushes sometimes there are blind shoots, shoots on which there are no buds, they are also subject to culling. These are the basic rules for summer pruning roses.

Summer pruning of roses after flowering:

Autumn pruning of roses for the winter video tutorials

Autumn pruning roses are not particularly needed. In autumn, the bushes are pruned mainly in order to make it more convenient to cover them for the winter. Be sure to remove only not ripened, young shoots. It is advisable to cut off all the leaves, they can also serve as a source of infection.

Pruning roses in autumn:

climbing roses bloom on the shoots of the previous year, so these shoots must be preserved in winter. Autumn pruning of climbing roses comes down to thinning and removing branches that interfere with shelter. The main pruning will be carried out in the spring.

Autumn pruning of climbing roses video:

Hear an expert's opinion on the need for autumn pruning:

To avoid the spread of disease, all remote branches must be burned. Use only clean, sharp tools. The pruner blade should make a clean, smooth cut, not crush the shoot. Do not forget to cover the places of cuts with garden pitch.

Regular pruning of roses is the key to their lush flowering and good growth of new shoots. However, it is very important to do it correctly. Otherwise, you can destroy the plant. We will tell you how to prevent this.

There are several types (degrees) of pruning roses. They depend on the season, the group to which the rose belongs, and the height of the shoots of the plant.

Short (low), or strong, rose pruning

It is used in spring (after removing the winter shelter) for hybrid tea, polyanthus and floribunda roses. And such pruning is carried out during the planting of new seedlings.

With strong pruning, 1/3 of the shoots are left, while the stems are shortened at the level of 3-4 buds from the base of the bush.

Medium or moderate rose pruning

Suitable for various medium-sized types of roses and is used mainly after flowering. Shoots are shortened at the level of 5-7 buds from the base and thus form a bush.

Long (high), or weak, rose pruning

Recommended for vigorous climbing and tall hybrid tea roses. At the same time, the shoots are shortened slightly: at the level of 8-15 buds from the base of the bush. Long pruning is carried out at spring planting seedlings.

In addition, there is combined pruning- when the shoots of one plant are shortened to varying degrees. With the help of such pruning, bushes of some varieties of floribunda roses are formed. This allows you to give the plants an elegant shape.

As well as sanitary pruning, which is carried out throughout the growing season in order to prevent diseases. At the same time, affected, dry, frozen and weak shoots are removed, the stems are shortened to a healthy (green) tissue.

Spring pruning roses

Before spring pruning, winter shelter is removed from plants, garbage is removed, all old leaves are removed and mulch is raked. Then the roses are pruned when the weather is warm, the buds swell, but the shoots have not yet started to grow. At this time, sanitary pruning is carried out.

If the bush is too thick, thin it out and leave 4-5 strong, healthy stems. At the same time, it is important that all cuts are made with a sharp pruner, which minimally injures the plant. In addition, all shoots are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, retreating upwards from the bud by about 5 mm.

In addition, during spring pruning, the bush is given the desired shape and shoots are cut to stimulate flowering.

Summer pruning roses

In summer, sanitary and formative pruning of bushes is continued: wild shoots, dried branches and wilted flowers are removed, cutting the stem to the first cinquefoil and a healthy bud. Roses older than 3 years often grow too many young shoots in August, which thicken the bush and create a shadow inside it. This can lead to the development of fungal diseases, so during the summer you need to get rid of excess shoots.

Pruning roses after flowering

This is a very important summer pruning, so it should be mentioned separately. Removing wilted buds allows roses to bloom longer and not waste energy on fruiting.

On roses in which several buds form on one stem (floribunda, climbing climbers, scrubs), the entire brush is cut off above the upper cinquefoil.

In hybrid tea roses, which produce only one flower per stem, wilted buds are cut differently. In the first half of summer, the shoot is cut so that only 3-4 leaves remain on it above the soil level. This will help rapid growth new shoots coming from the roots.

In the first half of summer, you can also cut the inflorescences of floribunda roses.

And in the second half of summer, only wilted flowers themselves should be removed.

In climbing ramblers (which bloom on the shoots of the second year), after flowering, brushes are removed to the first leaf. This will contribute to the branching of the shoots, on which flowers will bloom next year.

Pruning roses for the winter

Flowers grown in mild climates without winter shelter do not need pruning in autumn. And from covering roses in late autumn (approximately in October, before frost), all unripened shoots are removed and the stems are shortened to the height of the covering material.

General rules for pruning roses

At any time of the year, it is important to cut the stems of roses correctly. The oblique cut should be approximately 5 mm above the kidney.

If you want to get a spreading rose bush, cut off the branches above the bud, which is on the outside. Then the new shoot will not grow in the center of the bush, but outward. And if you need to grow an upright bush with vertical shoots, pruning is done on a bud, which is located on inside stem.

In addition, the age of the bushes must be taken into account. Yes, at annual plants the shoot is cut about half.

On the second year on each branch, 2-3 recovery shoots are formed, which grow from the root collar. In no case can they be cut to the ground, since it is they who provide the plants lush bloom and longevity. So, two-year-old shoots are shortened by 2-3 eyes from the base, and one-year shoots are shortened above the upper well-formed bud, located below the faded buds.

In adult roses (starting from the age of three) completely remove all dead and weakened branches and short shoots that have grown after pruning the previous year. In addition, for the formation of good flowers, all side shoots of any thickness growing towards the center of the bush should be cut.

Pruning hybrid tea roses

Bushes of hybrid tea roses are pruned in the shape of a ball. In these plants, buds form on the shoots of the current year, so they are greatly shortened. On young bushes, 2-4 buds are left at a distance of 15 cm from the ground level, and on adults - 4-6 buds at a distance of about 20 cm. On lateral shoots, 2-4 buds are also left.

In addition, internal stems are removed from the center of the bush, which contribute to thickening.

Trimming floribunda roses

Floribunda roses also need a strong (short) pruning, otherwise a voluminous bush with weak stems and small flowers will grow. But so that the plant does not quickly deplete with strong pruning, a special method is used: some stems are made short to get early flowering, and annual basal shoots are cut only 1/3 of the length.

On young lateral branches, 2-3 buds are left, and on old ones - 3-5 buds each. At the same time, the old stems growing in the middle of the bush are completely cut out.

Pruning climbing roses

Climbing, large-flowered and powerful upright roses are pruned minimally in autumn. Their stems are tied with a rope, bent to the ground and then covered. And the main pruning is carried out in the spring.

After removing the shelter, the stems are shortened so as to give the bush nice shape, on the side shoots leave 2-4 buds. And in the summer of such roses, wilted flowers are cut to the first leaf.

Pruning polyanthus roses

Polyanthus roses are also mainly pruned in spring (usually in April), and only damaged and weak branches are removed in autumn. In early spring strong shoots are shortened by 1/3 of the length, dead, weak and diseased branches are cut out completely. Thickening shoots are removed from the center of the bush.

Pruning ground cover roses

At ground cover roses in autumn, flowering shoots, weak branches and diseased growths are cut off, strong young basal branches that have grown this year are left, but at the same time they are slightly shortened. Lateral shoots are cut into 2-3 buds up to 10-15 cm from their base. Long stems are bent to the ground, secured with pins and covered. In the spring, frozen and broken branches are cut out.

The world of a happy woman

In order for the rose garden to please with enduring beauty, you need to know how to properly prune roses. Regular pruning of varietal roses should be carried out in accordance with the rules, it differs depending on the season and variety of flowers.

Trimming roses in summer, spring or autumn is only necessary with a sharp, clean tool. It must be stored in a special dry room, and it is advisable to disinfect it before use. The cut sites must be treated to avoid infection and help the wounds heal; garden pitch is most often used for this. Before you cut roses, you should take care of own hands- it is better to protect them with thick gloves than to heal wounds from thorns later.

The shoots are cut off, capturing healthy tissue, that is, up to the white core of the branch, the cut must be made 0.5 cm above the healthy eye at an angle of 45 degrees. If the shoot is cut out completely, then it is done at ground level.

Usually pruning roses is carried out in summer, autumn and spring. All the warm season you need to do sanitary pruning: broken, diseased, old or just extra shoots and leaves are removed constantly so that they do not take away strength from the plant. Be sure to prune roses after flowering to stimulate new and maintain the decorativeness of the bush.

If you regularly prune correctly, you can strengthen the roots, achieve uniform distribution nutrients to all parts of the plant. This event protects the bush from many fungal diseases, helps to endure winter colds more easily, keep youth longer, provides an opportunity abundant flowering summer.

Rose pruning levels

Rose bushes are pruned in three degrees - short (strong or low), medium (moderate), high (long or weak). The choice of each of them is determined by the variety, size, age, growth rate, requirements for the decorativeness of the bush.

With short pruning, no more than a third of the bush is left, and each shoot is shortened to 3-4 buds. So do with new seedlings. Do mature plants need to be pruned that much? , and Floribunda roses are cut like this in the spring, after cleaning the winter shelter.

The average degree of pruning involves shortening the stems to 5-7 healthy buds, that is, approximately half of their growth. So pruned after flowering medium-sized species. This pruning of most roses after the first bloom stimulates subsequent growth and further bud development.

A high degree of pruning allows you to shorten the shoots by no more than a third, up to 8–15 healthy buds. This is how freshly planted bushes are cut in the spring, but this is rarely done with adults in order to prevent thickening or excessive stretching of the branches.

Most often, experienced flower growers use all three types, carrying out complex pruning of plants, which allows you to rejuvenate the bush, stimulate new shoots, promote abundant bud formation, and maintain a given decorative shape.

Pruning schemes for different varieties

It is very important to know how to properly prune different roses after flowering, how to prune in the summer to encourage them to continue blooming. Flowers should not be removed when they have completely faded and crumbled themselves, but as soon as they are grafted, they have lost their decorative effect. It would be wrong to cut the faded roses under the very flower, they are removed, while shortening the shoot somewhat. So, Floribunda, climbers, multi-flowered stems are removed above the first leaf (sometimes even above the second), removing the entire flower brush.

To large-flowered varieties continued to bloom withered flower cut along with a segment of the shoot, which includes at least 1 full leaf, consisting of 5 stipules. So do with polyanthus varieties. The main cleaning of polyanthus occurs in the spring: completely thickening, old, diseased shoots are removed, and strong and young ones are shortened by a third. In autumn, only damaged, diseased weak branches are cut out.

Standard flowers are cut in accordance with the variety that is grafted onto the stem, but it is important that the border of the cut segments is above the bud, not directed into the bush. Strong shortening is done just before landing.

Hybrid tea is given the shape of a ball, the main formation occurs in the spring, the side branches are shortened to 2–4 buds, like all shoots of the current year, stimulating the formation of flowers. The inner stems are mercilessly removed so as not to thicken the bush. And in summer, after the first flowering, the shoots are greatly shortened - up to 3-4 leaves, which encourages the growth of new basal shoots.

Floribunda roses are pruned in the spring in a complex way. Some of the shoots are cut off, old stems are cut out from the middle of the bush, and annual shoots are shortened by a third so that there are more flowering branches.

Climbing plants are pruned in spring to give them the desired shape. Lateral shoots are limited to 2-4 buds, in the summer after flowering they are shortened to the first full leaf.

It is in the spring that you need to remove the old shoots, those that have dried up or frozen, thin out the bushes, shorten strong young shoots to stimulate their growth and abundant flowering.

Sanitary, and partly formative pruning continues in the summer. Wild growth emerging from the stem or root below the grafting site should be removed as soon as possible. Withering, broken, diseased or spoiled