Recommendations of experts on how to form a rosette in violets. Forming the right outlet from childhood Caring for violets in winter

Flowers bloom on the violet - they are just wonderful! What delicate shapes, what a bright color, how long we have been waiting for them! But as they bloom, sometimes there are disappointments - flowers are not collected in bouquets, there are very few of them, and the rosette is somehow crooked. No, we did not want such beauty. What to do? Are there secrets to growing an even rosette? In order for Saintpaulia to bloom luxuriantly and beautifully, and it would not be necessary to justify it to possible spectators, you need to be able to grow an even rosette - a properly grown violet will only delight you. First of all, you need to plant the violet correctly. The stem of the outlet should be located exactly in the middle of the pot, perpendicular to the ground. This will allow the root system and, accordingly, the green ground part of the plant to develop symmetrically.

The second main rule is that the outlet should have only one growth point. Often, after transplantation, stepchildren (daughter rosettes between leaf cuttings) begin to grow at Saintpaulia. If they are not intended for rooting, then they must be removed as soon as possible, completely, at the stem itself. Sockets thickened by stepchildren always have an untidy appearance and cannot be even. After removing the overgrown stepson, voids remain in its place, which also spoil the appearance of the outlet. Of course, the removal of stepchildren does not apply to trailers. Trailers do not have an outlet as such, and the formation of a bush occurs in a different way. Stepchildren are left in the axils of the leaf and pinched as they grow, so that each sprout also gives a stepson. Thus, a lush bush is obtained (but no longer a rosette).

If your violet grows on the windowsill for a long time without additional lighting, then you can see that all the leaves turn in one direction - towards the main light source. From the side of the light source, a faster growth of green mass is observed, and the outlet becomes one-sided. To prevent this from happening, the socket must be constantly turned, for example, once a week in different directions to the sun. The same should be done if the violet grows under the lamps, and the light falls on it only from one side - turn the outlet regularly. The ideal rosette should be even, the leaves should overlap, and the petioles should not be visible. If the petioles are long, the leaves fall apart to the sides and do not form a dense rosette, then, most likely, the violet does not have enough lighting. Move it closer to the light.

If the outlet grows too flat, the lower leaves wrap around the edges of the pot down, and the center of the outlet is too dense and the flower stalks break through between the leaves with difficulty - then there is too much light for such a violet. Keep it away from windows or lamps. Old leaves must be removed in a timely manner so that they do not pull on the nutrition necessary for young leaves and flowers, and they do not add decorativeness to the outlet. If there are already more than 7-8 rows of leaves on the rosette, then the lower leaves begin to turn yellow or become too light - such leaves must be removed. After removing the faded and lost the beauty of the leaves, be sure to pour the earth into the pot to the remaining lower row of leaves.

You need to start forming an even outlet right away, do not wait until it grows in a curve, and then only correct this defect. To do this, seat the children in a timely manner, preventing them from outgrowing, interfering with each other's growth. Any, even the most crooked baby, in the future, with active growth, is able to give an even outlet. And when planting, do not deepen the growing point! In violets, still in the starter stage, juvenile leaves (the first children's leaves) should be removed, usually 3-6 of them, which do not have intense color and size, and in variegated varieties, they do not have variability. If crooked curving leaves have grown on the outlet, then they must be removed in a timely manner so that they do not interfere with the even growth of the remaining leaves.

In the stage of rosette growth to an almost adult starter, plants should not be fertilized with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (to stimulate flowering), during this period, use humate fertilizers to grow leaf mass. An old overgrown violet can also be put in order and get a beautiful even plant. If the trunk is not too long, then the violet is transplanted with deepening. If the outlet is on a long stem, then the trunk must be cut off, its lower part must be cleaned of leaves and placed in water for rooting. The roots will appear along the entire length of the trunk, and then you can plant the outlet in the ground, observing the necessary planting rules. After 2-3 months, the violet rosette renewed in this way will bloom (in good conditions), and will delight you with its beauty for a long time to come.

Indoor violet or saintpaulia is a beautiful, cheerful and hardy flower. Subject to the elementary rules of care, it pleases with bright flowering almost all year round. The easiest way to propagate Saintpaulia is to root a leaf. This method gives good results and does not require much time and effort. Any business has its own nuances, so you should listen to the advice of professionals on how to grow a violet from a leaf.

Bright flower bed on the windowsill

An extensive family of violets are perennial herbaceous plants with evergreen foliage. Plants mature quickly, reach a height of 10-20 cm. The stem is formed from the leaves of the rosette. The leaves are rounded, pointed to the edge. They are dense, leathery, covered with soft hairs. Leaf plates of violets come in various shades of green, in some varieties they are spotty. Buds with five petals, the color range is extensive: pink, blue, purple, two-tone. Saintpaulia flowers are simple or double. The plant loves long, but diffused lighting, heat (20-25 ° C), air humidity 60-70%.

Ways to propagate violets

There are several ways to expand your collection of indoor flowers:

• leaf;
• stepson (daughter outlet);
• seeds.

Stepchildren are shoots that appear in the axils of the leaves. They are removed to maintain a decorative look. The stepson, which has 4-5 leaves, is cut off and rooted in a separate pot.

Breeders prefer to grow saintpaulias from seeds. Germinate seeds in loose, moistened soil placed in a container. Warm conditions are created for them. After 15-21 days, leaves appear on the seedlings, they swoop down and transplant them into separate containers.

Rooting a leaf step by step

Saintpaulia leaves are mature organs that can take root under suitable conditions. Grow a new flower in water or immediately in a special substrate. Both methods give a good result, each grower decides for himself how to plant a violet with a leaf.

Planting leaf selection

A leaf from the second or third row of the outlet is suitable for reproduction. Below the leaves are old, they have almost outlived their time and will not be able to give children. Planting material must be mature, the young leaf from the top will not have enough nutrients to form babies. The plate should be evenly colored green. This is a signal that the plant has a lot of chlorophyll. Spots, damage, burns are not allowed.

Cutting

Having chosen a leaf for planting, it is carefully cut off, pushing the rest of the plant away. If the cutting is small, this is not a problem. In any case, it is shortened to 3-4 cm. The cut should be at an angle of 45 °, its edges should be even and smooth. Before planting, the stalk must be dried for 30-45 minutes.

Attention. The most common mistake a novice florist makes is tearing off a leaf from a violet with his hand. When pressing on the petiole, tissues are pressed in and subsequently rot. You must use a knife.

Rooting in water

Planting material for root formation is placed in water or soil. The first option has a significant advantage. In this case, thanks to a transparent container and liquid, the grower gets the opportunity to observe the process. Small (150 ml) glass or plastic cups will do. They are filled with boiled or filtered water. The petiole is immersed by 1-1.5 cm. The leaf plate should not touch the surface of the water.

Advice. Before planting, the leaf is dipped for a few seconds in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Let dry for at least half an hour. This procedure allows you to get rid of possible diseases.

The container with seedlings is covered with a cut plastic bottle, glass jar or plastic bag. Growing violets from a leaf at home takes place in a bright and warm place at a temperature of about 25 ° C. After two weeks, regrown roots will become noticeable. The water level in the tank is constantly monitored, if necessary, the liquid is topped up. Some flower growers cover the cup with a lid with a hole. This design reduces evaporation and prevents the leaf from getting wet.

Advice. Spring is the best time to propagate indoor flowers. It is advisable to choose a period when the children grow up before the onset of the summer heat. At high temperatures, young violets are prone to infections and diseases.

If reproduction occurs in the autumn-winter period, then due to lack of lighting or coolness, the petiole may rot. By acting quickly, the situation can be corrected. The damaged part is cut off with a knife. The cut is treated with activated carbon powder. Water is changed, activated carbon is also added to it. When the root grows more than 1 cm on the handle, it's time to transplant it into the ground.

A layer of expanded clay and loose soil is poured at the bottom of the pot. The cutting cannot be stuck into the ground; a recess is made for it and inserted at an angle. Sprinkle 1.5 cm of soil on top. The container is covered with improvised means (bag, plastic bottle) and placed in the place where the cutting was rooted.

Soil preparation

Whichever rooting option you choose, the soil will be needed in any case. Experienced flower growers often prepare the mixture themselves. But it is easier and more reasonable for beginners to buy ready-made soil for violets. A young plant needs good air exchange. Loose soil will provide it. To improve the structure of the purchased soil will allow the addition of special baking powder:

• perlite - a rock that increases the friability of the soil, prevents the appearance of lumps and provides air access to the roots;
• vermiculite - a porous mineral for aeration and maintaining the water balance of the soil;
• coarse river sand.

You can check the quality of the soil in a simple way: hold a handful of prepared soil in your hand, if it crumbles and does not crumple, you can use it for flowers.

Rooting a leaf into the ground

Many experienced flower growers prefer to root planting material directly into the ground. So the cuttings rot less often, give a lot of babies, and for some varieties of violets this is the only option. An obvious plus of the method is that the plant immediately adapts to growth conditions, there is no need to transplant. Purchased soil is sometimes replaced with a homemade mixture:

• slightly acidic peat;
• forest land (coniferous);
• baking powder;
• charcoal.

The leaf is selected and cut off in the same way as when rooting in water. For cultivation, plastic cups or pots with a diameter of not more than 5 cm are used. A hole is made at the bottom to drain moisture. Through the hole, you can insert a wick for watering. In this case, moisture will come from below from the liquid pan. Children will not be flooded with water.

The soil is mixed in a spacious container and moistened. The prepared mixture is placed in growing cups. A deepening of up to 1 cm is made under the violet stalk, if planted deeper, the children will germinate longer. After planting, the soil is slightly crushed. You can support the leaf in an upright position with a wooden toothpick or a plastic spoon. From above, each plant is covered with its own plastic bag. You can use a capacious plastic container as a greenhouse for all violet sprouts.

Advice. If the soil for the substrate was taken on the street, it must be shed with boiling water with the addition of potassium permanganate. This procedure will disinfect the soil.

After planting violets with leaves in the ground, the children will have to wait about a month. Don't worry if the leaf wilts at first. A warm and humid microclimate will help it quickly acclimatize and sprout roots. For growing young saintpaulias, you need to find a warm and bright place, without direct sunlight and drafts.

With the advent of children, the greenhouse is no longer needed, but plants should be accustomed to new conditions gradually. During the week, increase the airing time so that the seedlings get used to less humidity. Settling the children in separate pots begins after 3 months.

Growing in a peat tablet

A peat tablet serves as a replacement for the substrate and water. In its composition:

• compressed peat;
• nutrients;
• coconut fiber;
• trace elements.

The stalk is planted in a wet tablet, where it takes root and acquires children. In this environment, the leaves rarely rot. Plant transplantation is carried out together with a peat ball.

Violet babies

In order for the children to emerge from the ground faster, it is recommended to cut off part of the leaf plate. This technique stimulates the development of young plants. The supply of nutrients from the leaf is reduced, the roots of the children begin to grow more actively into the ground. With the growth of children in 3-4 cm and the presence of several pairs of leaves, it is time to plant them. You can do this earlier, but if you wait, the plants will get stronger enough.

Young violets and petiole are taken out with a clod of soil. They are carefully separated by hand. Separate cups with a drainage hole and a special substrate are prepared for children. Saintpolime needs to provide sufficient lighting and watering. Children develop at different rates, when the rosette grows up to 12-15 cm, the next transplant is performed.

Attention. The main enemies of young violets are dry soil and water on the leaves.

Growing a new violet from a leaf is a fascinating process that requires patience and knowledge of the main features of the process. Following the instructions and advice of professional flower growers, you can achieve excellent results in the propagation of indoor plants.

For a long time, beautiful flowers with velvety leaves - violets - began to be grown as a garden, and then a room culture. How to care for a beautiful representative of exotic flora to bloom has been of interest to flower growers since that time. Because the violet, scientifically known as saintpaulia, is a plant with a capricious character.

The absence of flowers in violets, as a rule, is associated with a violation of the rules for caring for a crop:

• deficiency or excess of nutrients;
• large pot sizes;
• unsuitable soil;
• non-compliance with watering rules;
• incorrect temperature regime;
• lack of lighting.

Important! Flowering may also depend on the variety: there are varieties that can bloom year-round, and those that, after a short flowering, need a long rest.

Requirements for growing a flower

A low perennial with racemose inflorescences of beautiful small flowers, it is a fairly demanding plant.

How to choose a pot?

Proper selection of the pot is an important component of successful cultivation of violets, the roots of which do not develop deep, but are on the surface. The main parameters that you should pay attention to when choosing a pot include:

Dimensions

There are three standard sizes of pots, depending on the size and age of Saintpaulia:

• The 9 x 9 cm pot is the largest pot possible and is suitable for a full-grown plant.
• Pots 7x7 cm are used for cultivating specimens of medium size.
• Saintpaulia babies or compact varieties are grown in containers 5x5 cm.

When growing a flower in a pot with a diameter of 9 cm, transplantation is carried out in containers of similar sizes, since the use of larger diameter dishes adversely affects the state of the culture. This is expressed as follows:

• lack of flowers for 24 months;
• building green mass to the detriment of the formation of flowers, which are small and in small quantities;
• the development of fungal diseases and pests in the excess part of the soil that is not braided by the roots of the culture.

Material

The pots used for Saintpaulia are made of plastic and ceramics, which have their own characteristics:

1. If the grower opted for light, practical plastic, he will need to make additional holes on the sides of the pot for air access so that the root system is freely ventilated and the soil does not turn sour.
2. When buying a ceramic container, which is notable for its fragility and heaviness, you should pay attention only to containers that are not covered with glaze, which are capable of passing air.

Correct soil

Currently, specialized flower shops offer a wide range of substrates designed for growing violets. But due to the light structure, when watering, water does not impregnate the soil mixture, but flows between it and the walls of the pot. To avoid such difficulties, you can prepare a loose substrate that allows the roots to breathe, independently from garden soil and sand in a 2: 1 ratio. Before filling the pot, it is worth calcining it to destroy harmful organisms and placing it in a container on top of the expanded clay drainage layer.

How to take care of violets?

Violet, subject to the necessary conditions of detention, is an excellent decoration of the home.

Lighting

To place the pot, a well-lit place is chosen without access to direct sunlight that can leave burns on the leaves of the flower. Window sills on the north, northwest and northeast sides of the house are well suited for this. In the absence of such an opportunity, artificial shading will have to be created by placing the violet on the sunny sides. In order for the violet to bloom profusely for a long period, it needs to receive light for 10-12 hours, which in the autumn-winter period can be achieved using artificial lighting with fluorescent lamps.

Advice! Constant monitoring of Saintpaulia will allow you to determine the sufficiency of lighting: with an excess of light, the foliage of the culture droops down, and with a deficit, it stretches up.

Temperature regime

The optimum temperature for flowering varies between 20-22°C. If you keep a violet in such conditions, a wide and bright edging is clearly manifested, the green becomes more saturated. While the flowering that occurs in the summer, at hot temperatures from 28 ° C, is not as intense, with small flowers, pale greens and the absence of a border on it. Being in such conditions is detrimental to violets. To reduce the depressing factor, you can use air conditioning, a fan or ventilation.

In winter, hypothermia of the culture should not be allowed, which can cause root rot, in which only re-rooting can save the plant. It is also worth protecting the violet from cold air currents, due to which the culture loses its decorative effect: beige spots appear on the leaf plates.

Watering

For moistening, which is carried out after the soil has dried, warm and settled water for 3 days is used. Violet does not like excessive watering, but the complete absence of moisture negatively affects the condition of the plant.

Humidification can be done in several ways:

1. Water is poured into a pan, where a flower pot is placed for half an hour.
2. At temperatures above 22°C, the flower is carefully watered from above so that drops do not fall into the outlet.

Carefully! Violet should not be sprayed, but it is necessary to maintain a high level of humidity by placing a container of water next to the flower.

Feeding violets

Additional nutrition is provided during the period of intensive development:

1. For young plants, top dressing is carried out with the help of nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
2. Adult specimens need potassium and phosphorus, which contribute to intensive budding and flowering.

Important! An excess of nitrogen-containing fertilizers in the substrate can cause a lack of flowers.

Proper care of violets in winter

In winter, the main care procedures remain:

1. Providing additional lighting and temperature control not lower than 20 ° C without hypothermia during ventilation.
2. Watering three times a week with warm water.
3. Maintaining high humidity in the room where the flower is located.

Care after flowering

If Saintpaulia pleased the grower with abundant and long flowering, you should take care of restoring its vitality by cutting off the lower rows of leaf plates and transplanting it into a new substrate. In the absence of such an opportunity, you can limit yourself to fertilizing.

Important! During flowering, one should not forget about the timely removal of faded inflorescences.

How to propagate violet?

Saintpaulia can reproduce in a generative and vegetative way. Since it is impossible to preserve varietal characteristics with the seed method, cuttings are the simplest and most productive method.

Leaf reproduction is carried out throughout the year, while:

• A well-developed leaf blade is separated along with the petiole and placed in a container with water.
• After the formation of roots, the cutting is planted in a pot with a soil mixture.

Or:

• The sheet is placed immediately in a special substrate, after which the dishes with the handle are covered with glass and a warm room with good lighting is moved, where there is no access to direct sunlight.
• The substrate is systematically moistened with a spray gun.

Root formation can take a long time, so do not rush to get rid of the cutting for this reason.

How to seat children?

Adult plants, growing, form children, which often hamper the development of the maternal outlet. In such situations, it is necessary to carry out the procedure for separating the daughter bushes, which is best done in the summer, so that the mother plant has enough time to recover by the onset of winter.

For this:

1. The baby carefully digs out with a sharp object so as not to damage the mother's outlet.
2. With a lot of leaves and a small number of roots, some of the leaves on a separated outlet are cut off.
3. The baby is placed in a flower pot with a substrate similar in composition to the soil mixture in a container with the mother specimen.
4. The new plant is moderately moistened and moved to a warm place with plenty of diffused light.

Plant diseases and pests

Despite the resistance of the violet to diseases, manifestations of the late blight fungal disease in the form of brownish spotting are often noted on the tropical representative. There is practically no point in fighting it, so it is necessary to prevent the possibility of spreading to healthy specimens by destroying the affected plant and substrate. Of the pests, nematodes are the most dangerous: damaging the root system, they make it impossible to further feed the flower, after which the latter dies. To prevent the possibility of infection of violets, the substrate for pots should be purchased in stores or well calcined in an oven.

So, the violet flower, being a representative of the tropical flora, has a rather capricious disposition. However, subject to the rules for care, the florist will receive a lot of positive emotions from a profusely flowering plant that adorns the home with its beauty almost all year round.

At first glance, violet seems to be a very unpretentious plant. Transplanting this flower is quite easy, and it blooms with proper care, almost 10 months a year, with the exception of the hot summer period. But still, in order for the flower to meet your expectations, follow our advice on choosing a placement, a pot for a plant.

Step 1 Place for violets.

Make sure that the plant does not stand in the shade, it loves the light. But keep in mind that violets do not tolerate scorching sunlight. Therefore, on hot summer days, it is better to curtain the windows. Some experts argue that it is advisable to put pots in the northern part of your home. Consider these conditions to ensure maximum flower comfort.

Step 2 Pot size.

Violet flower will grow even in a fairly small container with a little soil. But in order for the plant to have a beautiful appearance, as well as large well-groomed leaves and large flowers, the size of the flower pot should be 10-15 cm in diameter and reach a height of about 10 cm. You do not need to plant this flower in huge pots, it will grow and lose its beautiful neat view. In addition, the correct size of the pot can help ensure proper care of the violet flower.

Step 3 Land for violets.

The stores sell special land mixtures for saintpaulias. You can also make the right mixture yourself. To do this, fill the pot to the middle with expanded clay, put a small block of charcoal, and fill the remaining space with ordinary dry earth. It is important to remember that the earth must pass moisture and air well, not stagnate, otherwise the plant will begin to rot.

Step 4 Fertilizers.

Specialized fertilizers are sold for flowering plants in specialized stores. It is recommended to fertilize this plant once every two weeks when the violet is actively blooming, and once every four weeks when the plant is at rest. You can add special fertilizers directly into a bowl of warm water, where you lower the pot for the bottom watering of violets.

How to properly care for violets so that the plant has plenty of moisture and continues to grow? Take care of proper watering and, if necessary, a quality transplant.

Step 5 Watering.

Do not get carried away with frequent and intensive watering of violets, since a large amount of moisture is contraindicated for them. Ideally, if you water the violet from below, that is, put the pot in a container with warm, settled water. When the soil in the pot becomes evenly moist, this will mean that the violet has absorbed as much water as it needs. This method of watering will prevent water from getting on the leaves and flowers, and, in addition, will protect the plant from decay.

Step 6 Transplanting violets.

Transplanting violets, like most indoor plants, should be done approximately once a year. Just change the soil and drain. You can transplant the violet into the same pot in which it grew earlier, if the plant was comfortable in it. Periodically, it is necessary to wash off the dust from the leaves of violets. This must be done very carefully, for example, with a weak shower jet with warm water. Never expose a wet plant to direct sunlight, as this will cause spots on its leaves, or it will simply “burn out”.

BUSH FORMATION AND REPRODUCTION

.Correctly cut and form a violet bush.

How do you care for violets to keep them nice and compact? A violet rosette should have three to four rows of leaves. The leaves located at the bottom sometimes do not look “vigorous” enough, so they need to be cut off. But be careful, because in the axils of the leaves there are buds that are just emerging.

The stem of the plant becomes longer over time, and the violet loses its original appearance. Therefore, it must be deepened into the ground. Or you can cut the "column" to the desired size, put the plant in a container of water and wait until the roots grow. Next, you should re-plant the plant in the ground. Remove dry, yellowed or wilted leaves. In order for the flower to grow evenly on all sides, periodically change the place of the pot or turn it towards the light.

.Reproduction of violets.

It is very easy to propagate them. To do this, tear off a healthy leaf and plant it in the ground. Perhaps for a long time the plant will not show any signs of life. The transplanted leaf may even dry out. However, do not worry, because the process of nucleation takes place underground, at the bottom of the leaflet, at its root. There is another simple way to propagate - hold the leaf in a jar of water until the roots appear, and then transplant it into the prepared soil. Both methods will almost certainly bring you "offspring".

HOW TO CARE FOR VIOLETS IN WINTER

Video on how to care for a violet so that it blooms 10 months a year

At different times of the year, violet, like most indoor plants, requires a different approach. If your house is not warm enough in winter, then it is better to remove the flower from the windowsill. You can also resort to another option and create a "greenhouse effect" by covering it with a jar. This method is not suitable for everyone, if the plant is not small, damage is possible.

Violet flowers, which are not properly cared for in winter, suffer from a lack of moisture in the air. Therefore, it is important that there is always water near the plant. Since the daylight hours are significantly reduced, the plant may not have enough light. To avoid this problem, you can use artificial lighting, such as fluorescent lamps, which must be turned on above the flower for several hours a day.

A video tutorial can help you understand various information on how to care for violets. Here are collected important facts and little tips for lovers of a marvelous flower. After applying the recommendations showing the care of violets in the video, these wonderful plants will delight you with their beauty and create a wonderful atmosphere in your home.

Hello, dear forum users!

Due to technical problems on the site, many articles from all blogs have disappeared. I bring to your attention one of the restored articles of my blog on a very relevant topic.

So let's get started!

I recently received this letter:

Hello, dear Olga Alexandrovna! I got carried away with violets not so long ago, a year and a half ago. I often visit your site, I learn a lot of new and interesting things. But, unfortunately, my knowledge is not always enough. I recently received my first order for cuttings of varietal violets. I want to bring them to bloom safely. And with that in mind, I have a question for you:

How to distinguish the "correct" socket from the socket with clogged leaves? (Can I see this somewhere clearly? Surely, this topic has been raised more than once?) What affects the correct formation of the outlet? And what to do with the already formed "wrong" outlet?

Thanks in advance for your reply. Irina Plekhanova.

I answer you, Irina.

Every fan of violets is rooting for his "kids". The soil plays an important role in the growth of violets. It should be loose, hygroscopic, but not retain water. You can do a lot of additives to it, I will not dwell on this. In each region where the collector lives, soils of different brands are sold, so the choice is large.

Here the soil is composed using sphagnum moss:

If the soil is constantly “flooded” (watering is frequent and plentiful), then an incorrect rosette is formed already in childhood - the leaves are bent, the middle is “compacted”, a brown coating is possible on the youngest leaves, the cuttings are hardly straightened for growth. Here it is necessary to replace the soil, add more perlite or agrovermiculite to it and reduce watering. The photo below shows that the soil is slightly flooded, there is a slight red color on the moss. But this is only the initial stage, watering should be less water.

The photo below clearly shows that the center is clogged - this is already acidified soil, a transplant into new soil and a larger pot size is needed (archive, photo 2008):

The correct outlet is flat, the leaves grow freely:

If the leaves grow on a very long stem, then pay attention to the illumination in this place. In this case, there is not enough light.

If the middle is very dense, then in this case there may be overexposure - an excess of lighting. You need to change the place on the windowsill or shelving.

In the next photo there is a slight overexposure - the leaves hug the outlet. But the plant feels good, blooms profusely, so let's forgive him this small flaw:

And there are varieties of violets that grow with "hands up" cuttings. Sometimes these are the characteristics of the variety, but most often it is a lack of lighting. In this case, you need to look for a place where the outlet will be more comfortable. You will have to move it to a new place more than once to find the best one. In my collection, this is the YAN-Metelitsa variety:

Violet diseases also affect the growth of the middle of the rosette, but in this case you will immediately see damage to the leaf plate. I don't have such a photo.

With further growth, temperature plays a role in the formation of the rosette. The higher it is on the racks or windowsill, the denser the middle of the outlet becomes. There are varieties that correctly form an outlet only in a cool place. These varieties include violets by E.V. Korshunova. The varieties of her selection are on my rack on the lowest shelf 3 cm above the floor. Variety EK-Lacy Stars. A wonderful flat correct socket. But the center is clogged, a transplant into fresh soil was needed:

Pay special attention to varieties of violets with curly leaves. At elevated temperatures, the middle of these rosettes will grow like a head of cabbage. Sometimes you have to disassemble the middle of the outlet with your hands, since they will not succeed in straightening themselves. It is better to put such varieties in the coolest place.

The photo below shows signs of overwatering, lack of nitrogen and overexposure, and elevated temperatures. Buds are difficult to get out from under the leaves.

On the shelves, and on the windowsills too, in different places of the shelves, violets grow in different ways. In my photo below (2008), it is significant that in a darker place (along the edges of the rack), the children are stretched out. It can also be seen that children grow faster at the walls than children at the edges of the shelves. From time to time I had to rotate the pallets to equalize the height.

I showed all the shortcomings in my photos of different years.

On the racks, sockets grow more evenly and more accurately, there is overexposure, but in smaller sizes than on the window. I have several rosettes on my window, they grow evenly. We also have blinds, but, in addition to them, we tinted the windows, since we have a south side and the sun all day until evening. The tinting was only 10%, but this is also felt for the colors.

Watering, even in extreme heat, should be more often, but not more. The plant drinks a certain portion of water, but it evaporates differently due to the increased temperature.

The most important thing in the soil is lightness and friability. I really like to add agrovermiculite to the soil.

Fertilizer can be any, but you can not use only one fertilizer component, such as nitrogen. The plant will begin to grow vigorously, the leaves will be brittle, and nutrition will not be enough. Therefore, you need to feed with complex fertilizer, for example, Kemira-Lux. Now it has been renamed, but the composition has remained the same. It is necessary to water with fertilizer in very small doses, precisely for "health improvement".

In summer, violets do not bloom well for everyone because of the heat. But in September-October you will have a garden in your apartment.

With the participation of violets at exhibitions, a symmetrical rosette with the maximum number of leaves is evaluated. If you do not take part in exhibitions, then the number of leaves on the outlet does not matter. But there may be another option here - frequent leaf breakage makes the violet grow new foliage faster and the trunk quickly becomes long. You need to remove the leaves from the violet only the first children's and then the subsequent old ones. It is believed that the rosette of violets after transplanting into a normal pot to the deepest aging can grow up to 7 years. She will not live such an age with you, you will often have to cut off the crown and re-root.

Flowering depends on many factors. Sometimes, due to the excessive efforts of the hostess, the violet will come out with chic leaves, a huge rosette, but there will be no flowers. Therefore, look for the best option, do not force the outlet to always be the same size as the starter.

On my photo from the archive - a variegated rosette prepared for the exhibition:

Both before and now, many lovers of violets appreciate the wild flowering with hats. And here there was beauty only from the leaves, and he stood on my shelves and grieved because of the lack of demand. In the end, I filled it and the pot ended up in a bucket. Now sometimes I remember this variety - unpretentious, the leaves were fresh for a long time and did not age. Exhibition socket. Flowering "crown" - a corolla, but there were always few flowers. Here is such a story.

Do not overfeed violets. Let them be watered with plain water than overfeeding. I already wrote above that sockets should not be placed close to each other, especially in the summer. Because of this, they get sick more often and vascular bacteriosis, possibly, begins due to the increased content of ammonia on the shelves (the cuttings are soft, brown and transparent).

Previously, the pots on my shelves stood like this:

0cm;line-height:14.7pt;background:#EAEAEC"> color:black">Then, when the exhibitions began - like this:

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0cm;line-height:14.7pt;background:#EAEAEC"> And now they stand tightly pallet to pallet, but once every 4-5 months I cut off all the leaves that are unnecessary on the sockets, in the summer after 3 months. Just for better ventilation.

Wires go to each shelf to each lamp, and the lamps are attached to the bars. On this large shelving unit, there are 2 lamps above each shelf. Above the topmost shelf, the lamps are also attached to the ceiling on a bar. Since this rack was built a very long time ago, at first it had twin industrial lamps (on the recommendation of Makuni). You may remember that there used to be such in the shops. But they were with chokes, which just hummed terribly and got very hot. Therefore, we replaced them with chokeless lamps. Switches are also left over from choke lamps. Now we have put a timer on each rack, but the switches have not been removed, they do not interfere. The wires are also attached to the bars near the wall, the husband did the wiring himself, very carefully, so the wires are not visible.

The length of the lamps is 132 cm, fluorescent lamps of 36 watts. Lamps bought different colors - yellow and blue. Lamps used to be German, now Chinese. They fail at the same time. The lamps are sold already assembled, it remains only to connect them to the timer and to the network. I did not like the yellow lamps - there is little light and you yourself walk in a gray-green room.

By time, the timer is turned on for 12 hours without a break. I used to take a 15 minute break every hour. The lamps broke down very often, so we set the timers just for 12 hours.

For miniatures, the width of the shelves is 36 cm, the lamps are the same, 1 lamp above the shelves. The distance between the shelves is 30 and 35 cm.

The light turns on almost all year round the same way for everyone. The exception is summer heat. In this case, I turn off the electricity 2-3 hours earlier. In winter, when the air is very dry, I turn on the humidifier. We have an air humidity meter, so everything is under control.

Watering through trays is faster. Over time, you will calculate such an amount of water per outlet that it will be completely drunk from the outlet tray and you will not have to drain the rest.

I don't have a drain. Previously, in the first years of compiling the collection, I used expanded clay - sockets often died due to waterlogging, since expanded clay absorbed a lot of water and a swamp turned out at the bottom of the pot.

Then I used finely chopped foam. Here it was different. If you put a little more than 1 cm of polystyrene on the bottom of the pot, then when watering the soil from above, the water first goes into the pan, and the foam does not let it through. The outlet is suffering again. Therefore, it is allowed to grow violets without drainage.

Dear forum users! In this article, the answers to your questions in the former comments were used. I will be glad to your new questions.

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