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Flowers on personal plot always attract attention, cheer up on a gloomy cloudy day and create a unique atmosphere. That is why many growers try to make every effort to grow flowering crops in their garden.
That is why, before you start breeding ornamental plants, you need to get acquainted with tips for growing and caring for garden flowers. The better the grower knows the features of a particular type of flowers, the more noticeable the result of his efforts.
So that it would not be offensive when a neighbor's lush grows and smells fragrant on the site flowering bushes, and on its territory only a couple of wilted daisies can be seen, you need to try to regularly take care of the planted flowers, sparing no time and effort.
Varieties of garden flowers: signs and photos of annuals and biennials
The whole variety of herbaceous flower and ornamental plants grown in the open field can be divided into three main groups: annuals, biennials and perennials.
The main feature of annuals from biennials is that they bloom and die in the year of sowing. Most of the annuals surpass floral plants of other groups in the perfection of the forms and brightness of the color of flowers, the timing and duration of flowering, the decorativeness of the leaves.
It is very important that many annuals breed in a reckless way, i.e. by sowing seeds directly in open ground.
Letniki are usually divided into flowering, decorative-leaved, curly. Annual plants are widely used.
Throughout the summer and until late autumn, they decorate flower beds, mixborders, borders, parterres, rockeries, containers; they are used to decorate gazebos, verandas, balconies.
Biennial flowering plants for the garden are those with a life cycle of two years. In the first year, a shortened stem and leaves develop, most often in the form of a leaf rosette. In the second year - in spring or summer - the plants bloom, form seeds and then die off.
Biennials are mostly cold-resistant and under conditions middle lane they normally hibernate on specially designated ridges or in a permanent place in a flower garden.
Most biennials reproduce by seed.
According to the flowering time, the types of flowers for the summer cottage - biennials are divided into plants of the spring flowering period ( pansies, daisies, forget-me-nots), summer (this, first of all, turkish carnation, foxglove, middle bell, mallow, which bloom profusely in July-August). Some of the biennials can live for three or even four years, but they gradually lose their decorative effect.
Biennials, like perennials, and annuals are used to decorate summer cottages, balconies, terraces, as well as in urban landscaping. They are also grown for cutting (foxglove, carnation, mallow, violet, bell medium). Perennials are herbaceous plants, whose life lasts for several years.
They have a number of undoubted advantages:
- bloom in early spring when annual plants are still growing;
- are able to bloom again in the fall (they often bloom until the very frost);
- many perennials have large flowers(for example, tulips, lilies, peonies, dahlias, gladioli);
- bloom for a long time and retain their decorative qualities;
- used for forcing (obtaining flowers in winter and early spring, primarily bulbous and corms). To perennials, except beautiful flowering plants includes a large number of decorative leaves.
Features of the type of garden flowers - perennials
Perennials, depending on the structure of their underground part, are divided into the following main groups:
Bulbous: daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, muscari, etc. Their perennial part consists of a strongly shortened shoot - a bulb.
Corms: dahlias, gladioli, montbrecia, begonia. Their perennial part consists of tubers - the main organ of reproduction and storage of spare nutrients.
Rhizome- these include primroses, bells, cornflower, etc. Their perennial part is the rhizome, a modified shoot, in which reserve nutrients are accumulated and the buds of renewal are located.
Until recently, species of garden flowers - perennials were propagated only vegetatively, since during seed reproduction they lost their varietal characteristics. And only in the middle of the 20th century in the USA, Japan, England, Canada, and then in our country, varieties were created that completely repeat the parental characteristics during seed reproduction.
Such perennials include large-flowered daisy, delphinium, hybrid rudbeckia, blue catchment and a number of other plants.
Perennials have their own characteristics and a number of advantages over annual and biennial flower plants. They are distinguished by a wide variety of decorative qualities, easily propagated by cuttings, seeds, rhizomes, bulbs, layering. And finally, perennials can stay in one place in the garden for 3-4 to ten years or more.
The optimal timing for planting and transplanting perennials is autumn or spring. A very important point when growing these flowers in the garden is their protection from low temperatures, and thermophilic plants (for example, incarvillea, knifofia, Korean chrysanthemum) are most susceptible to the harmful effects of frost.
They all require additional cover. The most reliable shelter from frost is snow, non-woven covering materials, grass, dry foliage have proven themselves well. Shelter is carried out only after a constant negative temperature and the soil will freeze to a depth of 3-5 cm.
Kind of ornamental plants for the garden - shrub
One of the varieties of garden flowers is an ornamental shrub, for example, rose, lilac, mock orange, spirea, hydrangea, rhododendron, weigela, forsythia, buddleya.
According to their decorative features, shrubs are usually divided into three groups: flowering and decorative leafy. Not all shrubs are frost-resistant, some of them in the middle lane sometimes freeze up to the root collar, but they are restored annually and do not lose their decorative value.
Shrubs are usually divided according to the height of the trunks. On this basis, three groups are distinguished;
- high (height 3-5 m),
- medium (1.5-2.5 m)
- low (1 m and below).
Shrubs are less eternal than trees, and their life lasts from several to tens of years.
Most of the shrubs are deciduous, but there are also evergreens (Mahonia, some species and varieties of rhododendrons, wild rosemary, lingonberry). Some shrubs are propagated by seeds, but most are propagated vegetatively.
Many shrubs form offshoots or layering (lilac, euonymus, snowberry, turf) that root easily. According to the demand for light, shrubs are usually divided into three groups: light-loving, moderately shade-tolerant and shade-tolerant.
Shrubs are popular with amateur gardeners due to the beauty of flowering, aroma, decorative leaves. And also because they are easier to care for than herbaceous plants.
In the photo below you can see the varieties of garden flowers, see their characteristic features and differences.
Conditions for flowering garden plants
Growing flowers in open ground requires flower growers to invest their efforts and time, because, as you know, each plant needs certain conditions for a normal life: the amount sunlight, temperature, length of the day.
Lighting. Only in the light does photosynthesis take place, during which plants absorb carbon dioxide and produce sugars, proteins, vitamins and other complex compounds. Most flower crops are sun-loving; they do not grow and bloom well in the shade. When planting, it is important to ensure that the plants are not in the shade of buildings and, while growing, do not shade each other.
The crowns of overgrown trees must be thinned out by removing the shading branches.
A number of crops require a certain length of daylight hours for a beautiful and long-lasting flowering. Plants native to the southern regions, as a rule, are quite enough 12 hours of light. Long day plants need light for 14 hours or more. Neutral day plants grow equally well on both short and long days.
Temperature. In the process of growing garden flowers, it must be borne in mind that the vital activity of plants is possible only within certain temperature limits.
So, in central Russia, most plants start growing at an air temperature of 5-7 ° C, and the optimum temperature for their growth and development is in the range of 20-25 ° C. And decorative, and everything fruit plants during the growing season they do not tolerate low temperatures, and with a significant decrease they die.
Late spring and early autumn frosts are especially dangerous for flowering plants. Late frosts in spring are fatal for shoots that have begun to grow, buds that open up, and buds. Early autumn frosts damage and destroy flowers of dahlias, gladioli, heleniums, golden balls, perennial asters. The warmth demand of flower crops largely depends on the natural habitat of the genus and plant species.
To regulate the thermal regime during the cultivation of flowers in the country, it is necessary, first of all, to select places protected from cold winds for planting plants, and in case of frost, apply various agrotechnical methods of protection - smoke bombs, fires; small plants are sprayed with water, covered with non-woven materials (agril, lutrasil, spunbond), peat, fallen leaves.
What soil is suitable for flowers in the country
Development garden plants largely depends on soil fertility. According to the content of humus in soils, they are divided into several groups: infertile, in which humus is less than 1%, medium-fertile with a humus content of 2-3% and fertile, where humus is more than 3%.
In Russia, sod-podzolic (occupy more than 5% of all lands), gray forest soils and podzolized chernozems (region of central Russia), chestnut and brown soils (southeast of the country, zone of dry continental climate). In many regions, especially along river banks, there are sandy soils characterized by a small amount of humus. There are also marl soils, which contain a significant amount of lime.
Soil acidity is usually denoted by the Latin letters pH. The degree of acidity must be taken into account when choosing places for planting plantings and when using certain mineral fertilizers. There are several gradations of acidity: strongly acidic soils (pH 4-5), slightly acidic (pH 5-6), neutral (pH 6-7) and alkaline (pH 8-9).
Floral and fruit plants have different attitudes towards soil acidity. So, slightly acidic soils are most suitable for planting apple trees, pears, cherry plums, strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and some other crops. Alkaline soils are good for plums, cherries, apricots, and Japanese quince.
Most ornamental flowers grow best on slightly acidic and neutral soils.
Visually, the degree of acidity of the soil can be determined by the weeds growing on it. For example, on acidic soils, whitewash, plantain, horsetail develop well, and on alkaline soils, mustard and white clover develop well.
You can increase the acidity by systematically adding acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, etc.) to the soil.
To reduce acidity, 250-600 g of lime or a glass of dolomite flour can be added per 1 m2 of soil.
Preparing the soil for garden flowers
In horticulture, a certain amount of nutrient substrates is required to improve the structure of the soil and fill the planting holes. In stores, you can buy ready-made soil for garden flowers, intended for plants in open ground. When buying, you need to check the presence of a quality certificate, which indicates the composition of the substrate, acidity, a list of nutrients included in it.
In many regions of Russia, especially in rural areas, amateur gardeners prefer to prepare substrates themselves. In order to improve their mechanical composition, it is recommended to add sand or modern inert substances to such mixtures: perlite, expanded clay, foam crumbs.
The composition of substrates for open ground can be very diverse and vary depending on the age of the plants, their requirements for the soil. Usually, lighter soil is suitable for young plants than for old ones.
The soil for flowers in the country should be loose, water and air permeable, not contain pests and pathogens, as well as weed seeds, have an acidity of pH 5-7, suitable for many ornamental plants. It must be sieved so that it does not have foreign impurities - stones, pieces of wood, glass.
For the preparation of various substrates, sod, peat, heather land is used; leaf humus (leaves of oak, willow, walnut, chestnut are unsuitable for leaf humus); coarse sand.
Additions of perlite, foam plastic chips, expanded clay, peat significantly increase the moisture content of the substrate. This is especially important on dry, especially sandy soils.
Often on the acquired plots, except for weeds, nothing grows, and the plots themselves are located on swampy acidic soils. In such areas, it is necessary, first of all, to carry out land reclamation.
Areas with close occurrence groundwater, the presence of water and excessive moisture require not suitable for cultivating garden flowers, since they require drainage. To remove surface water and lower the groundwater table, it is best to use ditches with a certain slope, which open into lower places where a drainage well (catchment basin) is dug. If there is a stream or river near the site, excess water is directed there.
In drainage ditches, the bottom and walls are coated with clay or cement, and reinforced with boards. Such ditches are annually cleared of debris and weeds that hinder the flow of water. However, it is more advisable to use perforated asbestos-cement, plastic or pottery pipes.
It is necessary to lay them, depending on the height of the groundwater, to a depth of 1.5-2.5 m.It is possible to plant flowers, shrubs and trees with a close occurrence of groundwater on earthen shafts at least 3 m wide and 70-80 cm high.
They are made using the upper horizons of the soil, adding sawdust, peat, sand, tree bark, and various plant residues. When planting flowers in the country, that is, developing and preparing a site, it is important to remember that the main element of its decoration is plants. These are hedges, green walls, flower beds, lawns, flower beds, rabatki.
Ornamental trees are planted in accordance with the plan so that their crowns, with increasing age, do not intertwine. On the large areas it is recommended to plant plants with a spreading crown, such as rowan, ash, maple, linden, pine, and in small areas trees with a pyramidal crown (spruce, as well as common mountain ash 'Fastigiata', Norway maple 'Columnare', common pine 'Fastigiata', hanging birch Fastigiata ').
Simultaneously with the trees are planted ornamental shrubs(lilac, mock orange, hydrangea, viburnum, spirea, park roses) and lianas (maiden grapes, honeysuckle, honeysuckle, actinidia kolomiktu, lemongrass Chinese).
Soil cultivation for growing garden flowers
Cultivated areas are dug up in autumn or, in large areas, they are plowed up. The main cultivation of the soil for bulbous crops is carried out to a depth of 30-35 cm 1.5-2 months before planting, for the rest flower crops- before landing, to the same depth.
For bulbous crops, when digging, a bucket of humus, 150-200 g of ash and 50 g of superphosphate are introduced. The site chosen for other flower crops is fertilized differently. About 0.5-1 buckets of well-rotted manure or compost are applied per 1 m2 of area. Before planting plants (in autumn or spring), complete mineral fertilization should be applied, from 45 to 90 g per 1 m2.
Planting of ornamental plants in open ground is carried out at different times, depending on the climatic conditions of the region, the resistance of plants to low temperatures and the degree of hardening of seedlings. In central Russia, at the end of May, asters, snapdragons, carnations, levkoy are planted, as well as perennial seedlings - gypsophila, delphinium, asparagus. After 1.5-2 weeks, when the threat of late spring frosts has passed, the turn of more thermophilic crops comes - dahlia, begonias, balsams. The distance between plants depends on the crop and the degree of soil preparation.
Seedlings of perennials and annuals should have a healthy, well-developed fibrous root system and suitably hardened. Perennials are planted in autumn or spring on ridges or on a flat surface, depending on soil conditions and biological properties plants.
It is very important to prepare the soil well for sowing seeds. You need to cook it in the fall, using sod soil, sand, rotted compost in a ratio of 2: 1: 0.5.
Planting is best done in the evening. The root collar can be deepened by no more than 1-2 cm. The need for transplanting perennial herbaceous plants occurs when they are in one place for 4-7 years, grow strongly, and the soil is noticeably depleted.
So that the earth does not crumble from the root system, the seedlings are watered abundantly before planting.
Watering when growing flowers in the country and in the garden
Caring for flowers in the garden involves regular and correct watering since water is the main component plants. With water, mineral solutions enter the plant, and photosynthesis occurs. The need for watering depends on the temperature of the air and soil, the size of the root system, the type of plant, and the areas of cultivation. With a lack of water, the shoots begin to wither, the leaves turn yellow, curl up, and the plant may die. The source of water is the supply of soil moisture in the root layer.
During the growing season, the water demand of plants is not the same. Most of all they need it during periods of intensive growth. For supporting optimum humidity the soil in the garden requires regular watering.
At the same time, excess moisture can cause decay of a part of the root system and the appearance of dangerous fungal diseases on plants (fusarium, anthracnose, gray rot, etc.).
For many flower crops, excess moisture is destructive. In these cases, timely and proper care of the soil is important (loosening, fertilization).
- It is better to water infrequently, but abundantly. Water should moisten the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm. In order for the water not to evaporate in the sun, but to go entirely into the soil, watering is best done in the afternoon, and in the south - in the evening. For watering flower plants, it is advisable to use settled water.
- Seedlings for convenience and in order to save water are watered in the holes. After the soil dries slightly, it is advisable to loosen and mulch it. Thanks to this, moisture is better retained in the soil, evaporation is reduced and gas exchange is enhanced.
- Weeds take away from flowering plants! a lot of moisture, nutrition, light. Usually several weeds are carried out per season. Manually - after rain, with the help of tools, for example, hoes - in dry weather, in this case the weeds die faster.
Top dressing as caring for flowers in the garden
Very important element caring for flowers in the country - feeding with mineral and organic fertilizers. This is especially necessary for perennials, blooming in autumn... So, gladioli, phlox, cannes, perennial asters, heleniums with a long growing season have a higher need for nutrients compared to plants with a short growing season (galanthuses, crocuses, xyphiums, daffodils, tulips). During the period of mass flowering of perennials, feeding is carried out in the following doses: nitrogen and phosphorus - 15-20 g / m2 each, potassium -10-15 g / m2.
It is advisable to feed the summer plants three times during the growing season. The first feeding is carried out 15-20 days after planting in a permanent place, the second - in the phase of bud formation and the third - during the flowering period. Asters, carnations, levkoi are especially demanding for feeding.
In the conditions of central Russia, to stimulate the growth and development of shoots and leaves, plants are fed with nitrogen or complex mineral fertilizers. This is done in the spring, more often in the second half of May. 20-25 g of nitrogen, 15-20 g of superphosphate and 10-15 g of potassium are added to a bucket of water. For the second top dressing, which is carried out at the beginning or the first half of June, full mineral fertilizer is used in the same quantities.
With the third and subsequent top dressing in early or mid July and in August, the dose of nitrogen fertilizers is reduced (15-20 g). Flower plants are very responsive to the use of organic fertilizers (solution of fermented mullein 1:15 or solution of chicken droppings 1:25). Top dressing is best applied after rain or with obligatory watering of plants.
A good result is obtained when applying granular fertilizers, since they retain their strength in the soil for a longer time compared to conventional mineral fertilizers and their effect is always stronger.
Immediately after fertilization or watering, the soil should be mulched, preferably with some organic material (humus, peat, sawdust). Under a layer of mulch of 4-5 cm, a significant part of the weeds die, and the weediness of the site decreases several times.
Caring for flowers in the country - shelter for the winter
Before the onset of winter, remove all dried and dead parts of flowering plants. Only plants overwintering with green leaves are left uncircumcised. The cut leaves and stems are piled up and burned.
Plants with insufficient cold resistance require timely preparation for winter. Shelter with insulating materials is necessary to protect not only from frost, but also from sudden and frequent temperature changes, the drying effect of winds, and especially sunburn in snowless winters. The signal that it is time to insulate is the onset of stable low temperatures and freezing of the soil to a depth of 2-3 cm.
Plants should be covered in two steps: first with peat, moss, and when lower temperatures come, spruce branches and dry leaves are placed on top of the first layer. First of all, plants planted in September or October should be covered, since they have not yet had time to develop a sufficiently powerful root system and can be seriously affected by low temperatures. With the onset of frost, the beds with bulbs are covered with leaves, peat or spruce branches with a layer of 7-12 cm.
To shelter a number of flower crops for the winter, you can use various types of films or very dense non-woven fabric(agril, lutrasil, spunbond), from which tunnels are built. Metal or plastic arcs are installed at a distance of 0.5-1 m from each other and for strength they are connected with a wire fixed on iron or wooden stakes driven into the ground from the end sides of the frame.
It is best to use a milky white film or any agricultural film with a thickness of 80-100 microns. With careful use, the film can last at least two seasons.
In the spring, shelters are also removed in two steps. Fully flowering plants open only with the onset of warm weather.
Digging and storing bulbs and corms
In preparation perennial plants by winter, it is important to dig up bulbs, tubers and corms in a timely manner.
Dahlias and cannes need to be dug out before the onset of stable cold weather. If the root collar is damaged by low temperatures, then the corms are unlikely to survive until next spring.
Bulbs of hazel grouses, tulips, hyacinths are dug up annually. Digging begins after the aboveground part turns yellow. The dug nests are separated, cleaned of soil and leaf debris, and folded to dry in a well-ventilated room.
Kandyk bulbs do not have protective scales, so they are immediately planted in the soil. Optimal mode storage of bulbs and corms: for the first 3-4 weeks the temperature is within 22-25 ° С, in August the temperature drops to 18-20 ° С and further until planting it should not exceed 15-17 ° С.
During the storage period, the bulbs and corms are regularly checked. The diseased specimens are immediately destroyed.
A variety of bulbous plants can be grown without digging for several years. Daffodils can stay in one place for 4-5 years, crocuses - 5-6. And the spit, muscari and even more so the kandyk can be left to their own devices, digging out only as needed.
The video about growing flowers in the country, presented on this page, will help you figure out how to take care of garden decorative crops different types.
Seed reproduction of flowers in the country during their cultivation
Seed propagation is used to propagate annual, biennial and some perennial crops. The main advantage of such reproduction is obtaining a large number planting material v short term... Seedlings of thermophilic summer houses should be grown in greenhouses or hotbeds, on glazed loggias, where the temperature during the day is kept at 15 ° C, and at night it does not drop below 12 ° C.
Most of the crops are carried out in greenhouses in the second half of March - early April. First of all, sage, verbena, snapdragon, petunia, tobacco, etc. should be sown. Before sowing, the seeds are checked for germination.
Seeds are sown in bowls, pots or boxes 5-7 cm high, with good drainage. Soil mixes prepared from peat, fertile soil and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1 with the addition of a mixture of 10 g of superphosphate and 5-7 g of chalk to a bucket. The mixture is placed in boxes, a layer of sand (2-3 cm) is poured on top, on top of which seeds are sown.
If the seeds are very small, they are mixed with sand. The sown seeds (except for small ones) are slightly sprinkled with compost or sand and watered from a watering can with a fine strainer. Large seeds are sown at a depth twice their size.
Sowings before emergence are covered with glass or plastic wrap... Grown seedlings (2-5 cm) dive into boxes with a substrate containing a mixture fertile soil, peat and coarse sand in a ratio of 7: 3: 2 with the addition, as in the first case, to a bucket of a mixture of 5 g of chalk or limestone and 20-30 g of complete mineral fertilizer.
Seedlings are planted according to the 4 × 5 cm scheme. At the end of April, they are hardened by transferring them to cold greenhouses or cool light rooms. Thermophilic annuals are planted in open ground after the end of spring return frosts.
Plants grown in peat pots are planted in the soil to the desired depth along with the pots, without destroying the soil coma.
Directly in the open field, as a rule, they grow annual and biennial flower crops, less often thermophilic perennials. Cold-hardy annuals can tolerate light frosts. Sowing plots are chosen bright, sunny, with soil rich in humus. The soil is prepared in the usual way and 60 g of complete mineral fertilizer is applied. The sowing depth of seeds depends on their size and is usually 0.5-1.5 cm.
In early spring or before winter, plants with a short growing season are sown (cornflowers, asters, calendula, scabiosa, etc.). Cold-resistant annuals tolerate late spring frosts down to - 4-5 ° С.
In summer, in open ground, you can sow types of ornamental plants for the garden - biennials: forget-me-not, violet, evening party, carnation, foxglove.
The seeds of such thermophilic crops as amaranth, zinnia, balsam are sown in open ground in spring, after the end of late spring frosts. Some perennials (basil, catchment, swimsuit, etc.) are sown before winter.
You can sow seeds in the soil both dry and soaked, and already swollen. In a cold and rainy spring, sowing is best done with dry seeds, since pre-soaked seeds can become moldy and even rot.
The seeds are soaked in clean water for 8-24 hours. The swollen seeds are dried for 40 minutes or one hour to prevent sticking and are immediately sown into prepared grooves on the beds at a distance of 0.4-0.5 cm from each other. Such crops will provide more early appearance seedlings and longer flowering.
Small seeds of flower plants (petunia, snapdragon, lobelia, etc.) are mixed with clean, well-washed sand at the rate of up to 100 g of sand per 1 g of seeds. After sowing, the seeds are not sprinkled with earth, but lightly pressed against the soil with plywood, board or glass.
When sowing nests, the hole from the hole should be at least 15-25 cm away, depending on the type of flowering plants. Autumn sowing of summer plants is best done in slightly frozen soil, in ridges prepared at the end of August - September.
The sown seeds are lightly covered with soil. In winter, the ridges are covered with snow and spruce branches or small branches are thrown over them, which will trap the snow.
Crop care consists in timely watering and weeding. Thinning begins when the seedlings have the first pair of true leaves. Thinning removes weak plants with pale green, yellow or deformed leaves - these are signs of disease or pests. Plants that are stretched out from a thickened planting or lack of light are also removed. When thinning, the seedlings are watered abundantly.
During the growth period, all growing flower plants must be fed with nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers. This is done at least once a week. Periodically, seedlings should be inspected and, if pests and diseases appear, they should be urgently destroyed.
Other types of flower propagation for summer cottages
Vegetative reproduction. This method is most often used for perennial ornamental plants.
Perennials with rhizomes (chrysanthemums, irises, cannes, phloxes, goldenrods, geleniums, etc.) reproduce in parts of the rhizome. The excavated plants are carefully cut with a sharpened knife into several parts, each of which should have several buds and its own roots. When breeding anemone tender and crown, tuberous begonias, cannes, their rhizomes are dried and divided in the spring, before planting, when the buds become visible.
It should be remembered that all plants blooming in summer and in autumn, divided in spring, and blooming in spring - in autumn.
Mustache reproduction. This traditional way breeding strawberries. The whiskers grow horizontally, at the nodes they touch the ground and form new rooted plants. A few whiskers are left on the mother plant. For better rooting, the rosettes are pressed with fingers to the ground, sprinkled with moist soil a little and watered.
In August - September, rooted daughter plants are transplanted to a permanent place. In this way, fragrant violet, duchenea, creeping tenacious, etc. reproduce very well.
Propagation by root cuttings. In this way, perennials with taproots are propagated. These include, first of all, lupine, phlox, astilba, oriental poppy, etc. On the roots of such plants there are dormant buds, which, when separated with a piece of rhizome, form independent plants. For dividing, the roots are dug out, cut into pieces 5-8 cm long and placed in boxes with soil. The cuttings are shaded and watered regularly. The plant forms roots and shoots in 20-30 days.
Reproduction stem cuttings... This is one of the simplest and most popular ways to obtain planting material. It is used for reproduction of chrysanthemum, geranium, aconite, phlox, peony, delphinium, etc. Young green shoots are taken from mother plants, the base is treated with "Kornevin" and planted in a moist substrate, deepening to the very leaves.
The planted plants are shaded, the soil is watered with a fungicide. Green cuttings are best done in greenhouses.
Reproduction by layering. This method is not widespread, but it can propagate, for example, a carnation. When propagating by layering, the most well-developed shoots of the plant are chosen, bend them to the ground and pinch them. They are laid in pre-dug shallow furrows (7-9 cm) and covered with earth.
The top should be on the surface of the soil. By autumn, young shoots appear from dormant buds, and roots appear from the shoot nodes. In the fall, the new plant is ready to be transplanted to a permanent location.
How garden flowers are grown, in the next photo, is clearly demonstrated, this will help you better understand some of the intricacies of floriculture.
It would seem that what is easier - went to flower shop and bought any you like indoor plant, and there is no need to reproduce. However, only those who do not experience maternal love to their "green pets", or people who are not ready to experiment. After all, what could be more interesting than getting a culture on your own, using seeds or parts of the mother plant for this? Touch-me-not, or balsam, from cuttings, pretty cyclamens or small cacti from seeds and offspring of phalaenopsis, already standing on their roots .... For an amateur indoor florist, there is no greater pleasure than breeding houseplants himself. Since plants have an extremely high regenerative capacity, there are many ways to get a young crop with your own hands. This article describes in detail how to propagate indoor flowers and how to care for the sprouts.
Types of reproduction of indoor plants: vegetative and generative
There are two main ways of breeding indoor plants: asexual (vegetative) and sexual, or seed (generative).
With the vegetative method, the plant itself forms layers (for example, lateral shoots) or reproduces as a result of our intervention with the help of its individual parts, such as cuttings, leaves, parts of shoots. As a result, young plants develop, which are an absolute copy of the parent specimen. Since this requires neither flowering and pollination, nor the formation of a fruit or seed, vegetative reproduction is also called asexual.
The ideal time for vegetative propagation of indoor plants is spring and early summer. In this way, young plants get the most light and thrive best. Some plants have spring pruning in any case, there are apical cuttings that can be used immediately for propagation. Plants that bloom in spring only reproduce after flowering. Cuttings woody plants such as camellia and hibiscus can also be cut in summer. The tubers are split at the end of the dormant period. Some plants can simply be split apart when transplanting. And in this case we are talking about vegetative propagation... The generative type of reproduction of indoor plants is more complex, but when using it, a genetically completely new plant individual develops, which has inherited a mixture of the qualities of the paternal and maternal cultures. Since a seed can only develop as a result of fertilization of a flower, in this case we are talking about sexual reproduction. Seed propagation is time-consuming in comparison with vegetative propagation, but for fans of experiments, it provides the opportunity to grow exotic species that are not commercially available. Spring is the ideal time to propagate indoor flowers by seeds. In the presence of artificial lighting, sowing is possible all year round.
Attention! Some plants contain toxic substances that come out when cut and can irritate the skin or mucous membranes. Cactus needles are easy to injure. Therefore, it is better to work with gloves. During work, try not to rub your eyes with your hands; make sure that no plant sap gets into open wounds.
For germination and development of roots, plants require a nutrient-poor substrate that accumulates moisture well, is breathable and does not contain harmful microorganisms. On sale are ready-made mixtures for sowing, planting and picking, as well as pots with poorly fertilized peat. For cacti, a mixture of pumice sand, coarse quartz sand and earth is used for picking or for cacti. Succulents or cuttings of other species that require a very air-rich substrate can be planted in quartz sand or perlite (commercially available). Do not use construction sand! The orchids are planted in a special orchid substrate (commercially available). Young hydroponic plants are grown on fine expanded clay (fraction 2-4 mm) or in synthetic cubes (commercially available). To propagate home flowers you will need:
- Pressed peat, plastic or clay pots.
- Land for sowing or seedling (or swelling peat pot).
- Seedling box with cover or heated greenhouse, alternative: small greenhouse or heating mat for plants that germinate or take root at high temperatures.
- Labels.
- Waterproof pencil.
- Dagger stick.
- Sharp kitchen or razor knife.
- Root growth stimulant.
- Powder or chunks of charcoal.
In what ways can houseplants orchids and cacti be propagated?
Reproduction.
Orchids can be propagated by seed or single plant parts. The first method is difficult, long and requires special knowledge. It is easier to propagate orchids vegetatively. The mother plant should be large and strong at the age of several years. Spring is also suitable for breeding in this case, and for blooming in spring plants - the period after flowering.
How indoor plants such as orchids can be propagated depends on their growth.
Have dendrobiums shoots are cut into cuttings 10-15 cm long with at least three leaf nodes and spread on a damp orchid substrate.
Have moths, or Phalaenopsis ( Phalaenopsis) , and dendrobiums, lateral shoots can form. They are cut under aerial roots and planted in an orchid substrate. Reproduction.
Most cacti are easy to propagate. When propagated by seeds, the first shoots appear in 2-3 days. After 2-3 weeks on small plant the first spines and hairs appear. The most favorable time for sowing is from February to April. The ideal temperature for seedling formation is 28 ° C. 1 When propagated by the shoots of a well-flowering mother plant, the offspring that are capable of flowering are obtained most quickly. The best time to prune shoots: from March to early September. To propagate such as cacti, proceed as follows:
- Cut off the shoot with a clean knife.
- Air dry the cut and put the shoot in a container so that air flows to the cut.
- Lightly spray the shoot in the mornings and evenings. After a few weeks, the first tips of the roots will appear on the cut.
- Plant the shoot in a pot with a slightly moistened cactus substrate and gradually accustom it to the sun.
Care after reproduction of indoor plants (with photo)
If you heed the following tips for caring for houseplants after breeding, then the seedlings will thank you for a good flowering.- Place seedlings and cuttings in the lightest and warmest places, but never in the sun.
- By removing the tops of the shoots, ensure their branching. This is important for plants such as Acalipha, Catharanthus roseus, Crossandra, Ixora, Jasmine and Pentas.
- Do not fertilize for the first few weeks, the nutrients available in the substrate are sufficient. Only plants such as (Senecio cruentus) and exacum (Exacit affine) can be fed for the first time after 4 weeks.
The time when a plant obtained with your own hands will bloom for the first time depends on the type, variety and existing conditions... In general, the shorter the lifespan of a plant, the faster it ripens for flowering.
Plants propagated by seeds usually flower 8-12 weeks after sowing if they are annuals. Have perennial species weeks and even months pass before germination, like (Ardisia crenata) ,Stefanotis ( Stephanotis flonbunda) , and sometimes years until the plant grows and is not able to bloom.
Divided plants most often bloom at the next flowering period of their species. If the plants have begun to bloom poorly, then separation can serve as a strong impetus for flowering. ... Plants propagated by cuttings often bloom the next year, if they are large enough and well-groomed. Plants from parts of leaves behave in the same way.sometimes bloom after 2-3 years. Bulbous crops must first form large enough bulbs before they bloom. Hippeastrum ( Hippeastrum) , for example, blooms after 1-3 years. Bromeliads need a different time before the first flowering, depending on the species and variety. The offspring must first grow to the size of an adult. This can last anywhere from 1 to 3 years. It's the same with orchids.
Methods for vegetative and seed propagation of indoor flowers
For many plant species, vegetative propagation is the best option for producing flowering specimens in a relatively short time. Reproduction is carried out as follows.By dividing plants. In this case, the root ball is carefully, but with effort, divided into two parts. The matted lump is cut with a knife, tangled roots are soaked in water. The old substrate is shaken out and both halves are planted in pots with fresh soil.
Layers. This method is practiced for long-stemmed plants such as columnea or bush begonias. The young shoot is placed on the substrate in a small pot, cut below the leaf node and secured with a wire brace. After rooting, the cuttings are cut from the mother plant.
Offspring. Offspring form in bromeliads such as Echmeya, Gusmania and Vriezia, and in other plants such as Clivia, near the mother's rosette. When flowers are propagated at home in this way, the offspring are separated and planted in separate pots when they are half the size of the mother plant. How more roots in children, the better for their growth.
Leafy cuttings. A leaf stalk consists of a leaf blade with a petiole. The method of propagation of indoor plants by leaf cuttings is used for saintpaulias and begonias.
Apical and stem cuttings. They are cut off from annual shoots, which do not bloom if possible. Apical cuttings represent the tops of the shoots, and stem cuttings are any lengths of stem with leaves without a shoot tip. Both types of propagation cuttings can be herbaceous, as well as fully or half lignified. Herbaceous cuttings are the most sensitive, but take root better. Lignified cuttings do not rot as quickly, but take root more slowly. Cut off 0.5 cm below the leaf node. The stalk should be 5 to 10 cm long and have 2 to 4 pairs of leaves. Lower leaves must be removed as contact with the ground promotes decay.
Chopped leaves. These are pieces of cut leaves, on the central veins of which roots are formed. In begonias, the leaves are cut across and the pieces are stuck into the ground in the direction of growth. In streptocarpus, the central vein can be removed and the halves of a piece of leaf can be stuck into the substrate.
Children, or daughter bulbs. They are formed, for example, in the hippeastrum. They are separated when the diameter reaches 6 cm and planted separately. Germination in a substrate or in water. Cuttings can be germinated in substrate or in water. Germination in the substrate is more effective if:
- Before propagating a houseplant, a cut of the cutting can be dipped in root growth hormone,
- Use small pots for germination,
- Provide limited air space and place a heating pad to warm the soil.
Petioles of leaves are inserted into the holes, the cut of which must always be in contact with water.Seed reproduction. Many flowering plants can also be grown from seed. The fresher the seed, the more likely it is to germinate. Follow the growing recommendations on the seed packaging. It also indicates whether you need to cover the seeds with earth or not, and what temperature is optimal for their germination. Large seeds are best sown one at a time in peat pots or trays.
Some specimens grow thicker if they are cut in 3-5 pieces into larger pots. A pick stimulates plant growth. Seedlings require space for further development, so they need to be planted (dived). They dive when plants have two embryonic and two true leaves. The seedling is removed from the ground with the thin end of a dive stick. The tip of the root is slightly pinched with nails. With the thick end of a dive stick, they make a depression in the ground and plant a seedling in it up to the leaves, the ground, lightly press down.
Sooner or later, every gardener is faced with the task of plant propagation in his area.
There are two ways to solve it: with the help of seeds (generative), and with the help of individual parts - leaves, stems, roots, etc. (vegetative).
Generative reproduction is more suitable for annual and biennial flower and vegetable crops... Seeds are sown directly into open ground, or seedlings are first grown in boxes and greenhouses.
Vegetative propagation has a wide variety of methods and is suitable for perennial grasses, trees and shrubs.
Cuttings
The most common breeding method... It is used for:
- currants;
- gooseberry;
- grapes;
- cotoneaster;
- roses;
- mock orange (jasmine);
- lilac;
- rhododendrons;
- indoor plants.
There are several ways of grafting.
Stem
Long and thick shoot fragments with 2-3 internodes and a living bud or leaf are used. Cuttings are cut with a sharp knife, placed in water or in constantly moistened soil to obtain roots. This process can take from 2-3 days to several months. For better rooting, growth stimulants, phytohormones are used, mini-greenhouses and wet chambers are built. Stems taken from young and strong bushes take root better. Cuttings tree species worse than shrub.
Root
Thick and long lateral roots are used. They are cut into small pieces and planted in the soil. Such cuttings can be prepared in autumn, and planted in the ground in spring. The method is used for perennials with roots that go deep into the soil.
Sheet
Suitable for herbaceous species. The most common breeding method for indoor flowers. One or more leaf blades are cut off together with the petiole and placed in water. When the cutting takes root, you can plant it in the ground.
Vaccination (transplant)
Is used for:
- fruit trees;
- shrubs.
Grafting is a way of propagating a particular variety of plants. This is the transplantation (transplantation) of a pre-harvested part of one tree or shrub onto the stem of another. After a while, both of these parts grow together, uniting their properties, and continue to grow as a single organism. In other words, the root system of a plant (stock) is used to propagate another (scion) while maintaining its varietal characteristics.
There are two types of vaccination
Budding
It is carried out in the spring during the period of sap flow. With a special knife, cut off the bud (eye) and part of the wood for the scion. Annual shoots are considered the most suitable. The bud is placed in a cut from the bark of another plant. This method of grafting is the most economical, simple to implement and provides a greater survival rate of the scion.
Inoculation by cuttings
Cuttings are harvested in the fall and stored all winter in wet sand or soil in a cold place. With this storage, the cuttings remain alive, but do not germinate by the time of grafting. In the spring with a copulating knife, an incision is made in the wood of the stock and the cutting and combine them. It is important to arrange the slices so that the cambial layers (growth rings) of the rootstock and the scion coincide and fit snugly together. The junction is tightly tied with a cloth and coated with a disinfectant to avoid drying, contamination or displacement of surfaces.
Due to the complexity of preparation, this method is not popular compared to cuttings. But for some cultivated fruit trees, propagation by grafting is a necessity. It is caused by the fact that when propagated by seeds, the offspring will not inherit valuable varietal properties. Such plants will not resemble each other or the mother tree. During vegetative propagation, varietal traits are fully transferred to the offspring.
Stealing
In this way, they propagate:
- violets;
- cacti;
- Kalanchoe.
Some plants are capable of the formation of daughter processes - stepchildren. They appear on leaves and stems. Sometimes stepchildren in the form of new stems appear after a strong growth of the main stem. In this case, they must be removed immediately to avoid nutritional deficiencies.
Stepchildren are fully formed plants with their own root system, ready for transplant. They are separated from the mother bush so as to preserve all the roots as much as possible and placed in a new pot.
Fragmentation
A simple type of reproduction of plants, which are characterized by strong growth, for example, purslane, primroses, violets, petunias, various shrubs. The plant is dug up and divided into separate ones with maximum preservation of the roots. Each fragment will produce an independent plant with a tendency to grow strongly.
Reproduction by layering
Applied for:
- berry bushes:
- flower shrubs;
- lianas.
Layers are the stems of the mother plant, bent to the ground and giving new roots. Annual stems are considered the most suitable for this method of propagation. Therefore, a year before receiving the cuttings, the lower branches are pruned. This stimulates the emergence of new shoots. Young one-year-old stems are attached to the ground with special hooks, sprinkled with soil in the places of internodes and watered with water. When such a layer takes root, it is separated from the main bush and transplanted to a new place.
Reproduction by stolons
This method of plant propagation is typical for:
- strawberries;
- strawberries;
- creeping buttercup.
Some plant organisms form long and thin short-lived shoots - stolons. They can be aerial (lashes) with green leaves or underground (whiskers) with scales in the form of leaves. At the very end of the stolon is the apical kidney. Reaching the ground, the bud takes root and gives rise to an independent plant. After rooting, the stolons die off.
Occurs in tree species:
Some plants develop adventitious buds on the roots. Gradually, the roots grow, and aerial shoots arise from the buds. At first, the new plant receives nutrition from the mother through the root connecting them. Gradually, the root dies off, the formed offspring becomes independent.
Reproduction by modified shoots
Modified shoots mean:
- Tubers are strongly thickened shoots or thickened tops of stolons with several internodes. They develop in potatoes, sweet potatoes, Jerusalem artichoke.
- Bulbs are thickened stems with fleshy, scaly leaves. Formed in lilies, tulips, onions, garlic.
These underground formations contain the rudiments of new plants and a supply of nutrients for their full development.
Reproduction occurs after strong growth of the mother plant. Daughter bulbs or tubers (babies) appear on the axillary buds. They separate and form independent plants. Large tubers can be cut into several parts while preserving the bud (eye) on each of them and planted in the soil. The bulbs are planted whole in the ground.
It is important to understand that each plant has its own way of propagating. It is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the reproduction of each plant and choose the most suitable method for them, paying attention to the timing of sowing and harvesting material.
To keep your garden buried in flowers, learn how to propagate them yourself. This is not as difficult to do as at first glance, so in this article we will tell you in detail how to propagate irises, roses, lilies - some of the most popular flowers on garden plots Russians.
Reproduction of roses
The easiest and most affordable way to propagate flowers is by cuttings. This is the rooting of branches cut from a bush.
Preparing cuttings
Select shoots that are already brown and woody at the base. Cut off cuttings 5-8 cm long from them. In this case, the lower cut should be under the kidney, and the upper one - half a centimeter above the kidney. Try to make both cuts at an angle of 45 degrees. It is good if each cuttings have one (with 2 branches) or two internodes. Before rooting the finished cuttings, remove from them the lower branch and the upper leaves from the remaining branches, and then treat with zircon: dilute one ampoule of fertilizer in 2 liters of water and place the cuttings in the resulting solution, immersing them to a depth of 2-3 cm.Leave for 15 hours.
Landing
Plant the cuttings in pots straight or at a slight incline to a depth of 1 to 2 cm. Use a mixture of earth and sand as soil. Water the soil before planting.
Care
To keep the soil from drying out, spray the cuttings with room temperature water every day. The first roots of the cuttings will appear in 14 days, and the plant takes root in 3-4 weeks.
Reproduction of roses (video)
Reproduction of irises
Reproduction
After the irises have bloomed, dig them out of the ground. Divide the rhizomes by hand or cut into pieces with a knife. Cut the leaves to a height of 10-12 cm in the form of a triangle. Shorten the roots by 23 lengths. Disinfect the resulting plots by holding them in a solution of potassium permanganate for 10-15 minutes, and then keep them in the sun all day, after sprinkling the slices with crushed charcoal.
Landing
Dig a hole and put a mound of earth on the bottom. Dip the roots into the hole and gently spread them over the mound. Planting depth - no more than 2-3 cm. Cover the roots with earth and compact with your hands - the planted plot should be firmly fixed in the soil.
Top dressing
If irises grow well after planting, then in the first year they can not be fed. In the future, the flowers must be fertilized with mineral fertilizers three times a year: at the beginning of growth, during the formation of buds and after the end of flowering. Irises usually bloom in the second year after transplanting. The material on erythronium (canine tooth) will be helpful.
Reproduction of irises (video)
Reproduction of lilies
The most common and easiest way to breed lilies is by dividing the nests of the bulbs. It is based on the fact that several new buds are formed in the bulb at once, giving rise to daughter bulbs. They are separated and transplanted to another location. While growing, the separated bulbs form an independent root system.
Division
Cut the lily stems very close to the soil surface. Then, scoop up the bulbs. In order not to damage them, it is better to do it with a garden pitchfork. Then clean the bulbs from the ground, remove all scales with spots and traces of rot. Trim the roots, leaving 10-15 cm. Dismantle large nests into bulbs. If they don't separate themselves, do it with a knife. Pickle clean bulbs with roots for 20-30 minutes. in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or the preparation "Maxim".
Landing
It is better to plant prepared bulbs immediately, but if you need to wait, then do not overdry the roots. To do this, put the bulbs in boxes and sprinkle them with damp peat.
Plant the bulb at a depth three times its diameter. Water the soil after planting. We recommend reading the article on cardiocrinum.
Reproduction of lilies (video)
Seed propagation is used to propagate annual, biennial and some perennial crops. The main advantage of such reproduction is obtaining a large amount of planting material in a short time.
Seedlings of heat-loving summer houses should be grown in greenhouses or hotbeds, on glazed loggias, where the temperature does not drop below +12 degrees C at night and +15 degrees C in the daytime. Most crops are carried out in greenhouses in the second half of March. First of all, sage, verbena, begonia, petunia, marigolds, tobacco and other plants should be sown. Seeds are sown in plots, pots or boxes 5-7 cm high, with good drainage. Soil mixes and other crops. On the roots of such plants there are dormant buds, which, when separated with a piece of rhizome, form independent plants. For dividing, the roots are dug up and cut into pieces 5-8 cm long and placed in boxes with soil. The cuttings are shaded and watered regularly. The plant forms roots and shoots in 20-30 days.
Reproduction of garden flower plants Photo and Video
Video clip on this topic. For all flower lovers))
