Maximum gas boiler temperature. Optimal operation of a gas boiler: in winter and to save gas

Plant encyclopedia 17.06.2019
Plant encyclopedia

2.KIT of the boiler at different temperatures entering it

The lower the temperature enters the boiler, the greater the temperature difference by different sides the partitions of the boiler heat exchanger, and the more efficiently the heat is transferred from the exhaust gases (combustion products) through the wall of the heat exchanger. I will give an example with two identical kettles, placed on the same burners of a gas stove. One hotplate is on for maximum flame and the other on medium. The kettle that is on maximum flame will boil faster. And why? Because the temperature difference between the combustion products under these kettles and the water temperature for these kettles will be different. Accordingly, the rate of heat transfer with a large temperature difference will be greater.

With regard to the heating boiler, we cannot increase the combustion temperature, as this will lead to the fact that most of our heat (gas combustion products) will be emitted through the exhaust pipe into the atmosphere. But we can design our heating system (hereinafter CO) in such a way as to lower the temperature entering into, and therefore, lower the average temperature circulating through. The average temperature at the return (inlet) to and supply (outlet) from the boiler will be called the “boiler water” temperature.

As a rule, the most economical thermal mode of operation of a non-condensing boiler is considered to be the 75/60 ​​mode. Those. with a temperature at the supply (outlet from the boiler) +75 degrees, and on the return (inlet to the boiler) +60 degrees Celsius. A link to this thermal mode is in the boiler's passport, when indicating its efficiency (usually the 80/60 mode is indicated). Those. in a different thermal mode, the boiler efficiency will already be lower than stated in the passport.

So modern system heating must work in the design (for example 75/60) thermal mode for the entire heating period, regardless of the outside temperature, except for the cases of use outdoor sensor temperature (see below). Regulation of the heat transfer of heating devices (radiators) during the heating period should not be carried out by changing the temperature, but by changing the value of the flow through the heating devices (the use of thermostatic valves and thermoelements, ie "thermal heads").

To avoid the formation of acid condensate on the boiler heat exchanger, for a non-condensing boiler, the temperature in its return (inlet) should not be lower than +58 degrees Celsius (usually taken with a margin of +60 degrees).

I will make a reservation that the ratio of air and gas entering the combustion chamber is also of great importance for the formation of acidic condensate. The more excess air entering the combustion chamber, the less acidic condensate. But you shouldn't be happy about this, as excess air leads to a large overconsumption of gas fuel, which ultimately "hits us on our pocket."

For example, I will give a photo showing how acid condensate destroys a boiler heat exchanger. The photo shows the heat exchanger of the wall-mounted boiler Vailant, which has worked for only one season in an incorrectly designed heating system. Pretty severe corrosion from the side of the return (inlet) of the boiler.

For condensation, acid condensate is not terrible. Since the heat exchanger of the condensing boiler is made of a special high-quality alloy of stainless steel, which is "not afraid" of acid condensate. Also, the design of the condensing boiler is designed so that acidic condensate flows through a tube into a special container for collecting condensate, but does not fall on any electronic units and components of the boiler, where it could damage these units.

Some condensing boilers are able to change the temperature at their return (inlet) by themselves due to the smooth change of the circulating pump power by the boiler processor. Thereby increasing the economy of gas combustion.

For additional gas savings, use the connection of the outdoor temperature sensor to the boiler. Most wall units have the ability to automatically change the temperature depending on the outside temperature. This is done in order to automatically lower the temperature of the boiler water at a street temperature that is warmer than the temperature of the cold five-day period (the most severe frosts). As stated above, this reduces gas consumption. But when using a non-condensing boiler, it is important not to forget that when the boiler water temperature changes, the temperature at the return (inlet) of the boiler should not fall below +58 degrees, otherwise acidic condensate will form on the boiler heat exchanger and destroy... To do this, during the commissioning of the boiler, in the boiler programming mode, such a curve of the temperature dependence on the outside temperature is selected, at which the temperature in the boiler return flow would not lead to the formation of acid condensate.

I want to warn you right away that when using a non-condensing boiler and plastic pipes in the heating system, installing an outside temperature sensor is practically pointless. Since we can design for the long-term service of plastic pipes, the temperature at the boiler supply is not higher than +70 degrees (+74 during the cold five-day period), and in order to avoid the formation of acid condensation, design the temperature on the boiler return not lower than +60 degrees. These narrow "frames" make the use of weather-dependent automation useless. Since such a framework requires temperatures in the range of + 70 / + 60. Already when using copper or steel pipes in the heating system, it already makes sense to use weather-dependent automation in heating systems, even when using a non-condensing boiler. Since it is possible to design the thermal mode of the boiler 85/65, which mode can be changed under the control of weather-dependent automation, for example, up to 74/58 and give savings in gas consumption.

I will give an example of an algorithm for changing the boiler flow temperature depending on the outside temperature using the example of the Baxi Luna 3 Komfort boiler (below). Also, some boilers, for example, Vilant, can maintain the set temperature not on their supply, but on their return. And if you have set the mode of maintaining the temperature on the return line to +60, then you can not be afraid of the appearance of acid condensate. If, at the same time, the temperature at the boiler supply changes to +85 degrees inclusive, but if you use copper or steel pipes, then such a temperature in the pipes does not reduce their service life.

From the graph we see that, for example, when choosing a curve with a coefficient of 1.5, it will automatically change the temperature at its supply from +80 at a street temperature of -20 degrees and below, to a supply temperature of +30 at a street temperature of +10 (in the middle section flow temperature + curve.

But how much the supply temperature +80 will reduce the service life of the plastic pipes (Reference: according to the manufacturers, the warranty service life of the plastic pipe at a temperature of +80 is only 7 months, so hope for 50 years), or the return temperature below +58 will reduce the service life of the boiler, unfortunately, there is no exact data announced by the manufacturers.

And it turns out that when using weather-dependent automation with non-condensing gas, you can save something, but it is impossible to predict how much the service life of pipes and a boiler will decrease. Those. in the above-described case, the use of weather-dependent automation will be at your own peril and risk.

Thus, the greatest sense in the use of weather-dependent automation when using a condensing boiler and copper (or steel) pipes in the heating system. Since weather-dependent automation will be able to automatically (and without harm to the boiler) change the thermal mode of the boiler from, for example, 75/60 ​​for a cold five-day period (for example, -30 degrees outside) to a mode of 50/30 (for example, +10 degrees for street). Those. you can painlessly choose the dependence curve, for example, with a coefficient of 1.5 without fear of a high boiler feed temperature in frosts, at the same time without fear of the appearance of acid condensate in thaws (for condensation, the formula is valid that the more acid condensate is formed in them, the more they save gas). For interest, I will lay out a graph of the dependence of the KIT of the condensing boiler, depending on the temperature in the boiler return.

3.KIT of the boiler depending on the ratio of gas mass to combustion air mass.

The more completely the gas fuel burns in the combustion chamber of the boiler, the more heat we can get from burning a kilogram of gas. The completeness of gas combustion depends on the ratio of the gas mass to the mass of the combustion air entering the combustion chamber. This can be compared to tuning the carburetor in a car's internal combustion engine. The better the carburetor is tuned, the less for the same engine power.

To adjust the ratio of gas mass to air mass in modern boilers, a special device is used to meter the amount of gas supplied to the boiler combustion chamber. It is called gas valve or electronic power modulator. The main purpose of this device is the automatic modulation of the boiler power. Also, the adjustment of the optimal ratio of gas to air is carried out on it, but already manually, once during the commissioning of the boiler.

To do this, when commissioning the boiler, you need to manually adjust the gas pressure according to the differential pressure gauge on the special test fittings of the gas modulator. Two pressure levels are adjustable. For maximum power mode, and for minimum power mode. The methodology and instructions for carrying out the adjustment are usually set out in the boiler passport. You can not buy a differential pressure gauge, but make it from a school ruler and a transparent tube from a hydro level or a blood transfusion system. The gas pressure in the gas line is very low (15-25 mbar), less than when a person exhales, therefore, in the absence of a nearby open fire it is safe to do this. Unfortunately, not all service technicians, when commissioning the boiler, perform the procedure for adjusting the gas pressure on the modulator (from laziness). But if you need to get the most economical operation of your heating system in terms of gas consumption, then you need to make such a procedure.

Also, when commissioning the boiler, it is necessary to adjust the cross-section of the diaphragm in the boiler air pipes according to the method and table (given in the boiler passport), depending on the boiler power and the configuration (and length) of the exhaust pipes and combustion air intake. The correctness of the ratio of the volume of air supplied to the combustion chamber to the volume of supplied gas also depends on the correct choice of this section of the diaphragm. The correct ratio ensures the most complete combustion of gas in the combustion chamber of the boiler. And, consequently, it also reduces gas consumption to the required minimum. I will give (for an example of a technique correct installation diaphragm) scan from the passport of the boiler Baksi Nuvola 3 Comfort -

P.S. Some of the condensing ones, in addition to controlling the amount of gas supplied to the combustion chamber, are also able to control the amount of air for combustion. To do this, they use a turbocharger (turbine) whose power (revolutions) is controlled by the boiler processor. Such skill of the boiler gives us additional option save gas consumption in addition to all the above measures and methods.

4. KIT of the boiler depending on the temperature of the air entering it for combustion.

Also, the economy of gas consumption depends on the temperature of the air entering the boiler combustion chamber. The boiler efficiency given in the passport is valid for the air temperature entering the boiler combustion chamber +20 degrees Celsius. This is due to the fact that when colder air enters the combustion chamber, part of the heat goes to warming up this air.

There are "atmospheric" boilers, which take combustion air from the surrounding space (from the room in which they are installed) and "turbo boilers" with a closed combustion chamber, into which air is forced by means of a turbocharger located in. All other things being equal, the "turbo boiler" will have a higher efficiency of gas consumption than the "atmospheric" one.

If everything is clear with the "atmospheric", then with the "turbo boiler" questions arise as to where it is better to take air into the combustion chamber. "Turbo boiler" is designed so that the flow of air into its combustion chamber can be organized from the room in which it is installed, or it can be directly from the street (by means of a coaxial chimney, that is, a chimney "pipe in pipe"). Unfortunately, both of these methods have pros and cons. When air comes from indoor spaces at home, the temperature of the combustion air is higher than when taken from the street, but all the dust generated in the house is pumped through the boiler combustion chamber, clogging it. The combustion chamber of the boiler is especially clogged with dust and dirt when carrying out finishing works in the House.

Do not forget that for safe work"Atmospheric" or "turbo boiler" with air intake from the premises of the house, it is necessary to organize the correct operation of the supply part of the ventilation. For example, supply valves on the windows of a house must be installed and open.

Also, when removing the boiler combustion products up through the roof, it is worth considering the cost of manufacturing an insulated chimney with a condensate drain.

Therefore, the most popular (including for financial reasons) are the systems of the coaxial chimney "through the wall to the street". Where exhaust gases are emitted through the inner pipe, and outer tube combustion air is pumped from the street. In this case, the exhaust gases heat up the air drawn in for combustion, since the coaxial pipe acts as a heat exchanger in this case.

5.KIT of the boiler, depending on the time of continuous operation of the boiler (absence of "clock" of the boiler).

Modern boilers themselves adjust their output heat output, for the thermal power consumed by the heating system. But the limits of power auto-tuning are limited. Most non-condensing units can modulate their power from about 45 to 100% of their rated power. Condensation modulates the power in a ratio of 1 to 7 and even 1 to 9. That is. a non-condensing boiler with a nominal power of 24 kW, will be able to produce at least, for example, 10.5 kW in continuous operation. And condensing, for example, 3.5 kW.

If, at the same time, the temperature outside is much warmer than on a cold five-day period, then there may be a situation when the heat loss at home is less than the minimum possible generated power. For example, the heat loss of a house is 5 kW, and the minimum modulated power is 10 kW. This will lead to periodic shutdown of the boiler when the set temperature at its supply (outlet) is exceeded. It may happen that the boiler turns on and off every 5 minutes. Frequent switching on / off of the boiler is called the "cycle" of the boiler. Cycling, in addition to reducing the service life of the boiler, also significantly increases the gas consumption. I will compare the gas consumption in the clock mode with the gas consumption of the car. Consider gas consumption during stroke as driving in city traffic in terms of fuel consumption. And the continuous operation of the boiler is driving on a free highway according to fuel consumption.

The fact is that the boiler processor has a program that allows the boiler to indirectly measure the thermal power consumed by the heating system using the sensors built into it. And adjust the generated power to this need. But it takes the boiler from 15 to 40 minutes, depending on the capacity of the system. And in the process of adjusting its power, it does not operate in the optimal gas consumption mode. Immediately after switching on, the boiler modulates the maximum power and only over time, gradually, using the approximation method, it reaches the optimal gas consumption. It turns out that when the boiler cycles more often than 30-40 minutes, it does not have enough time to reach the optimal mode and gas consumption. Indeed, with the beginning of a new cycle, the boiler starts the selection of power and mode anew.

To eliminate the boiler cycle, set room thermostat... It is better to install it on the ground floor in the middle of the house and, if there is a heating device in the room where it is installed, then the infrared radiation of this heating device should hit the room thermostat at a minimum. Also, this heater must not have a thermocouple (thermal head) on the thermostatic valve.

Many boilers are already equipped with a remote control panel. Inside this control panel is the room thermostat. Moreover, it is electronic and programmable by time zones of the day and by days of the week. Programming the temperature in the house by time of day, by days of the week, and when you leave for a few days, also allows you to very significantly save on gas consumption. Instead of a removable control panel, a decorative plug is installed on the boiler. As an example, I will give a photo of a removable Baxi Luna 3 Komfort control panel installed in the lobby of the first floor of a house, and a photo of the same boiler installed in a boiler room attached to the house with a decorative plug installed instead of a control panel.

6. The use of a large proportion of radiant heat in heating devices.

You can also save any fuel, not just gas, by using heating devices with a large share of radiant heat.

This is explained by the fact that a person does not have the ability to feel exactly the temperature of the environment. A person can only feel the balance between the amount of heat received and given off, but not the temperature. Example. If we take our hands an aluminum blank with a temperature of +30 degrees, it will seem cold to us. If we pick up a piece of foam with a temperature of -20 degrees, then it will seem warm to us.

With regard to the environment in which a person is, in the absence of drafts, a person does not feel the temperature of the surrounding air. But only the temperature of the surrounding surfaces. Walls, floors, ceilings, furniture. Here are some examples.

Example 1. When you go down to the cellar, after a few seconds you feel chilly. But this is not because the air temperature in the cellar is, for example, +5 degrees (after all, air in a stationary state is the best heat insulator, and you could not freeze from heat exchange with air). And from the fact that the balance of the interchange of radiant heat with the surrounding surfaces has changed (your body has an average surface temperature of +36 degrees, and the cellar has an average surface temperature of +5 degrees). You begin to give off radiant heat much more than you receive. Therefore, you get cold.

Example 2. When you are in a foundry or steel workshop (or just around a big fire), you get hot. But this is not because the air temperature is high. In winter, with partially broken windows in the foundry, the air temperature in the workshop can be -10 degrees. But you are still very hot. Why? Of course, the air temperature has nothing to do with it. The heat of the surfaces, not the air, alters the balance of radiant heat transfer between your body and the environment. You begin to receive a lot more heat than you radiate. Therefore, people working in foundries and steel-making workshops are forced to put on wadded trousers, quilted jackets and hats with earflaps. For protection not from cold, but from too much radiant heat. In order not to get heatstroke.

Hence, we draw a conclusion that many do not realize. modern specialists for heating. That it is necessary to heat the surfaces surrounding the person, but not the air. When we only heat the air, then first the air rises to the ceiling, and only then, lowering, the air heats the walls and the floor due to the convective circulation of air in the room. Those. first warm air rises to the ceiling, heating it, then along the far side of the room descends to the floor (and only then does the floor surface begin to heat up) and further in a circle. With this purely convective heating method, an uncomfortable temperature distribution throughout the room occurs. When the highest room temperature is at head level, average at waist level, and lowest at foot level. But you probably remember the proverb: "Keep your head in the cold and your feet warm!"

It is no coincidence that SNIP states that in a comfortable house, the temperature of the surfaces of the outer walls and floor should not be lower average temperature indoors by more than 4 degrees. Otherwise, the effect arises that it is both hot and stuffy, but at the same time chilly (including on the legs). It turns out that in such a house you need to live "in shorts and felt boots."

So from afar I was forced to lead you to the realization of which heating devices are best used in the house, not only for comfort, but also to save fuel. Of course, heating devices, as you might have guessed, should be used with the greatest share of radiant heat. Let's see which heating devices give us the greatest share of radiant heat.

Perhaps, such heating devices include the so-called "warm floors", as well as "warm walls" (which are becoming more and more popular). But even among the usually most common heating devices, steel panel radiators, tubular radiators and cast-iron radiators can be distinguished by the largest share of radiant heat. I am forced to believe that steel panel radiators provide the largest share of radiant heat, since manufacturers of such radiators indicate the share of radiant heat, and manufacturers of tubular and cast iron radiators keep it a secret. I also want to say that recently received aluminum and bimetallic "radiators" do not have the right to be called radiators. They are called so only because they are the same sectional as cast-iron radiators. That is, they are called "radiators" simply "by inertia". But according to the principle of their action, aluminum and bimetallic radiators should be classified as convectors, not radiators. Since the share of radiant heat is less than 4-5%.

For panel steel radiators, the proportion of radiant heat varies from 50% to 15%, depending on the type. The largest proportion of radiant heat is for panel radiators of type 10, in which the proportion of radiant heat is 50%. Type 11 has a proportion of radiant heat of 30%. In type 22, the proportion of radiant heat is 20%. Type 33 has a proportion of radiant heat of 15%. There are also steel panel radiators produced according to the so-called X2 technology, for example, by Kermi. It represents type 22 radiators, in which it passes first along the front plane of the radiator, and only then along the rear plane. Due to this, the temperature of the front plane of the radiator increases relative to the back plane, and, consequently, the proportion of radiant heat, since only infrared radiation from the front plane enters the room.

The respected company Kermi claims that when using radiators made using X2 technology, fuel consumption is reduced by at least 6%. Of course, he personally did not have the opportunity in laboratory conditions to confirm or deny these figures, but based on the laws of thermal physics, the use of such technology really allows you to save fuel.

Conclusions. I advise in a private house or cottage to use steel panel radiators in the full width of the window opening, in descending order of preference by type: 10, 11, 21, 22, 33. When the amount of heat loss in the room, as well as the width of the window opening and the height of the window sill do not allow the use types 10 and 11 (there is not enough power) and the use of types 21 and 22 is required, then if there is a financial opportunity, I would advise you to use not the usual types 21 and 22, but using the X2 technology. If, of course, the use of X2 technology will pay off in your case.

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On the supply line it is from 95 to 105 ° C, and on the return line - 70 ° C. Optimal values ​​in the individual heating system H2_2 Autonomous heating helps to avoid many problems that arise with the centralized network, and the optimal temperature of the heating medium can be adjusted in accordance with the season. In the case of individual heating, the concept of norms includes the heat transfer of the heating device per unit area of ​​the room where this device is located. The thermal regime in this situation is ensured design features heating devices. It is important to ensure that the heat carrier in the network does not cool below 70 ° C. An indicator of 80 ° C is considered optimal. With a gas boiler, it is easier to control heating, because manufacturers limit the possibility of heating the coolant to 90 ° C. Using sensors to regulate the gas supply, the heating of the coolant can be controlled.

Heat carrier temperature in different heating systems

It, in turn, depends on what the minimum and maximum water temperature in the heating system can be achieved during operation. Measuring the temperature of the heating battery For autonomous heating, the standards are quite applicable central heating... They are detailed in the Resolution of the PRF No. 354. It is noteworthy that the minimum water temperature in the heating system is not indicated there.

It is only important to observe the degree of heating of the air in the room. Therefore, in principle, the operating temperature of one system can be different from another. It all depends on the influencing factors that were mentioned above.

In order to determine what temperature should be in the heating pipes, you should familiarize yourself with the current standards. In their content there is a division into residential and non-residential premises, as well as the dependence of the degree of air heating on the time of day:

  • In the rooms during the day.

Norms and optimum values ​​of the coolant temperature

Info

Over time, the maximum water temperature in the heating system will lead to a breakdown. Also, a violation of the water temperature schedule in the autonomous heating system provokes the formation of air jams. This is due to the transition of the coolant from a liquid to a gaseous state. In addition, this influences the formation of corrosion on the surface of the metal components of the system.


Attention

That is why it is necessary to accurately calculate what temperature should be in the heating batteries, taking into account their material of manufacture. Most often violation thermal conditions work is observed in solid fuel boilers. This is due to the problem of adjusting their power. When the critical temperature level in the heating pipes is reached, it is difficult to quickly reduce the boiler power.

Heating in a private house. there are doubts about the correctness of the system made.

For these reasons, sanitary standards prohibit more heating. To calculate the optimal indicators, special charts and tables can be used, in which the norms are determined depending on the season:

  • With an average indicator outside the window of 0 ° C, the flow for radiators with different wiring is set at a level from 40 to 45 ° C, and the return temperature is from 35 to 38 ° C;
  • At -20 ° C, the feed is heated from 67 to 77 ° C, and the return rate should be from 53 to 55 ° C;
  • At -40 ° C outside the window for all heating devices set the maximum permissible values.

Heating medium temperature in the heating system: calculation and regulation

According to regulatory documents, temperature in residential buildings should not fall below 18 degrees, and for children's institutions and hospitals - this is 21 degrees. But it should be borne in mind that, depending on the air temperature outside the building, the structure through the enclosing structures can lose different amounts of heat. Therefore, the temperature of the coolant in the heating system, based on external factors, ranges from 30 to 90 degrees.

When water is heated from above, decomposition begins in the heating structure paints and varnishes, which is prohibited by sanitary standards. To determine what should be the temperature of the coolant in the batteries, specially developed temperature charts are used for specific groups of buildings. They reflect the dependence of the degree of heating of the coolant on the state of the outside air.

Heating water temperature

  • In the corner room + 20 ° C;
  • In the kitchen + 18 ° C;
  • In the bathroom + 25 ° C;
  • In corridors and stairwells + 16 ° C;
  • In the elevator + 5 ° C;
  • In the basement + 4 ° C;
  • In the attic + 4 ° C.

It should be noted that these temperature standards refer to the period heating season and do not apply to the rest of the time. Also, it will be useful to know that hot water should be from + 50 ° C to + 70 ° C, according to SNiP-u 2.08.01.89 "Residential buildings". There are several types of heating systems: Content

  • 1 With natural circulation
  • 2 With forced circulation
  • 3 Calculation of the optimum heater temperature
    • 3.1 Cast iron radiators
    • 3.2 Aluminum radiators
    • 3.3 Steel radiators
    • 3.4 Warm floor

With natural circulation The heating medium circulates without interruption.

Optimum water temperature in a gas boiler

Usually, a lattice fence is installed that does not impede air circulation. Cast iron, aluminum and bimetallic devices are widespread. Consumer choice: cast iron or aluminum The aesthetics of cast iron radiators is the talk of the town.
They require periodic painting, since the rules provide that the working surface of the heater has smooth surface and made it easy to remove dust and dirt. A dirty coating forms on the rough inner surface of the sections, which reduces the heat transfer of the device. But technical specifications cast iron products at a height:

  • slightly susceptible to water corrosion, can be used for more than 45 years;
  • have a high thermal power per section, therefore they are compact;
  • are inert in transferring heat, therefore they smooth out temperature changes in the room well.

Another type of radiator is made of aluminum.
Single pipe heating system can be vertical and horizontal. In both cases, air locks appear in the system. At the entrance to the system, a high temperature is maintained in order to warm up all the rooms, therefore the piping system must withstand high pressure water. Two-pipe heating system The principle of operation is to connect each heating device to the supply and return pipelines. The cooled heat carrier is directed through the return pipeline to the boiler. During installation, additional investments will be required, but there will be no air locks in the system. Temperature standards for premises In a residential building, the temperature in corner rooms should not be lower than 20 degrees, for indoor premises the standard is 18 degrees, for showers - 25 degrees.

The standard for the temperature of the coolant in the heating system

Staircase heating Since we are talking about apartment building then it should be mentioned stairwells... The norms for the temperature of the coolant in the heating system read: the degree measure on the sites should not fall below 12 ° C. Of course, the discipline of residents requires tightly closing the doors of the entrance group, not leaving the transom of staircase windows open, keeping the glass intact and promptly reporting any malfunctions to the management company.


If the Criminal Code does not take timely measures to insulate the points of probable heat loss and maintain the temperature regime in the house, an application for recalculating the cost of services will help. Changes in the design of heating The replacement of existing heating devices in the apartment is carried out with the obligatory agreement with management company... Unauthorized changes in the elements of warming radiation can disrupt the thermal and hydraulic balance of the structure.

Optimum temperature of the coolant in a private house

This device, shown in the photo, consists of the following elements:

  • computing and switching node;
  • working mechanism on the hot coolant supply pipe;
  • an executive block designed to mix the coolant coming from the return. In some cases, a three-way valve is installed;
  • booster pump in the supply section;
  • not always a booster pump on the “cold bypass” section;
  • sensor on the coolant supply line;
  • valves and valves;
  • return sensor;
  • outdoor temperature sensor;
  • several room temperature sensors.

Now you need to figure out how the temperature of the coolant is regulated and how the regulator functions.

Optimum temperature of the coolant in the heating system of a private house

If the water temperature in the heating system of a private house exceeds the norm, the following situations may occur:

  • Damage to pipelines. This is especially true for polymer lines, for which the maximum heating can be + 85 ° C. That is why the normal value of the temperature of the heating pipes in an apartment is usually + 70 ° C.

    Otherwise, deformation of the line may occur and a gust will occur;

  • Excess air heating. If the temperature of the heat supply radiators in the apartment provokes an increase in the degree of air heating above + 27 ° C, this is outside the normal range;
  • Reducing the service life of heating components. This applies to both radiators and pipes.

Disclaimer:
I must say right away that I am not an expert and I do not understand much about boilers. Therefore, everything that is written below can and should be treated with skepticism. Do not kick me, but I will be glad to hear alternative points of view. I was looking for information for myself on how to optimally use a gas boiler, so that it lasts as long as possible and so that less heat release into the pipe.

It all started with the fact that I did not know what temperature of the coolant to choose. There is a selection wheel, but there is no information on this topic. nor in the instructions anywhere. It was really difficult to find her. I made some notes for myself. I can't guarantee they are correct, but they might be useful to someone. This topic is not for the sake of holivar, I do not urge to buy this or that model, but I want to understand how it works and what depends on what.

The essence:
1) The efficiency of any boiler is the higher the colder water in the internal heatsink. A cold radiator absorbs all the heat from the burner, releasing air at a minimum temperature outside.

2) The only efficiency loss that I see is just the exhaust gases. Everything else remains within the walls of the house (we only consider the case when the boiler is in a room that needs heating. I no longer see why the efficiency may decrease.

3) Important. Do not confuse the efficiency plug, which is written in the characteristics (for example, from 88% to 90%) with what I am writing about. This plug does not refer to the coolant temperature, but only to the boiler power.

What does it mean? Many boilers can operate with high efficiency even at 40-50% of the nominal power. For example, my boiler can operate at 11 kW and 28 kW (this is regulated by the pressure in gas burner). The manufacturer says that the efficiency at 11 kW will be 88%, and at 28 kW - 90%.

But what water temperature should be in the boiler radiator, the manufacturer does not indicate (or I did not find it). It is quite possible that when the radiator heats up to 88 degrees, the efficiency drops by 20 percent. I don't know. It is necessary to measure the heat loss with the outgoing gases. but I'm too lazy for that.

4) Why not set all boilers to minimum temperature coolant? Because when the radiator is cold (30-50 degrees, already very cold, relative to the burner flame), condensation forms on it from water and compounds that are mixed in the gas. It's like cold glass in a bathroom where water collects. Only there is not pure water, but also all kinds of chemistry made from gas. This condensation is very harmful to most materials from which the radiator is made inside the boiler (cast iron, copper).

5) Condensation in large quantities drops out when the radiator temperature is colder than 58 degrees. This is a fairly constant value because the combustion temperature of the gas is approximately constant. And the amount of impurities and water in the gas is standardized by GOSTs.

Therefore, there is a rule that return flow to ordinary boilers should come to 60 degrees and above. Otherwise, the radiator will quickly fail. The boilers even have a special feature - when the burner is turned on, they turn off circulation pump to quickly heat your radiator to the set temperature, reducing condensation on it.

4) Yes condensing boilers- their trick is that they are not afraid of condensate, on the contrary, they try to cool the combustion products as much as possible, which contributes to increased condensation (there is no miracle in such boilers, condensate in in this case just a by-product of cooling the exhaust gases). Thus, they do not release excess heat into the pipe, using all the heat to the maximum. But even when using such boilers, if you need to heat up the coolant strongly (if there are few batteries / warm floors installed in the house and you do not have enough heat), the hot radiator (at least 60 degrees) of this boiler can no longer take all the heat out of the air. And its efficiency drops to almost normal values. Condensation almost does not form, flying out into the pipe along with kilowatts of heat.

5) The low temperature of the coolant (the characteristic that is given to the load to condensing boilers) is good for everyone - it does not destroy plastic pipes, it can be directly put into a warm floor, hot radiators do not raise dust, do not create wind in the room (air movement from hot batteries reduces comfort), it is impossible to burn yourself on them, they do not contribute to the decomposition of paints and varnishes near radiators (less harmful substances). By the way, it is generally forbidden to heat batteries more than 85 degrees due to sanitary measures, precisely because of the reasons mentioned above.

But the low temperature of the coolant has one drawback. The efficiency of radiators (batteries in the house) is highly temperature dependent. The lower the coolant temperature, the lower the efficiency of the radiators. But this does not mean that you will pay more for gas (this efficiency has nothing to do with gas at all). But this means that it will be necessary to buy and place more radiators / warm floors so that they can give the same amount of heat to the house at a lower operating temperature.

If at 80 degrees you need one radiator in the room, then at 30 degrees you need three of them (I took these numbers from my head).

6) In addition to condensation, there are boilers "low temperature"... I just have one. They seem to be able to live at water temperatures of 40 degrees. Condensation also forms there, but it does not seem to be as strong as in conventional boilers. There are some engineering solutions that reduce its intensity (double walls of the radiator inside the boiler or some other parsley, there is very little information about this). Perhaps this is stupid marketing and only works in words? I do not know.

For myself, I decided to set at least 50-55 degrees so that the return flow was at least about 40(I don't have a thermometer). For me, this is a salvation, because I have underfloor heating installed incorrectly (the house already had all the wiring at the time of purchase), and it would be completely wrong to heat them with 70 degrees of water. I would have to rebuild the collector, add another pump ... And 50-60 degrees is generally normal for me in warm floors, my screed is thick, the floor is not hot. Whether it's bad or not bad, I don't know, but it already exists and there is nothing to be done about it. Although, I suspect that the efficiency from this still suffers a little, and the screed does not become stronger from wild drops. But what to do.

The question, of course, is how all this will affect the efficiency and the radiator of the boiler. But I have no information on this topic.

7) For an ordinary boiler, apparently, it is optimal to heat water up to 80-85 degrees. Apparently, if the flow rate is 80, then the return flow will be about 60 on average in the hospital. Someone even says that the efficiency is higher this way, but I do not see any reasonable reason why the efficiency can increase with the temperature of the coolant. It seems to me that the efficiency of the boiler should fall with an increase in the temperature of the coolant (remember the gases that leave the house in the chimney).

8) I have already written why a hot coolant is not welcome. And once again I will emphasize one opinion that I saw on the Internet. They say that for plastic pipes, the maximum reasonable temperature is 75 degrees. I am sure that the pipes will withstand even 100 degrees, but high temperatures seem to lead to increased wear. I have no idea what is "wearing out" there, maybe it's a fake. But I'm still not a supporter of boiling water through the pipes. All the reasons are indicated above.

9) From all this follows the opinion (not mine) that weather-dependent automation is almost never needed, because it regulates the temperature of the coolant not optimally for the long-term use of the boiler (or killing its efficiency). That is, if the boiler is condensing, then it is better to heat up to one temperature, and increase it only if it's very cold in the house. It depends primarily on the house, insulation and the number of radiators (and last of all on the temperature overboard). And an ordinary boiler is still better to heat up to 70 degrees, otherwise it is a khan. Accordingly, the low temperature is somewhere in the region of 50-55 on average. Does the manual control rule? Twice a winter, you can manually increase the temperature if you feel that the radiators are no longer giving off enough heat to the house.

In general, it is a pity that there is no manufacturer's plate with the ideal design coolant for each boiler. To sharpen all CO at this temperature.

Once again - I can finally make a kettle and I don't pretend to anything, I understood the topic for only a few hours. But I know for sure that there is very little information on this topic and I will be glad if this thread serves as a starting point for discussion, even if I am wrong on all points.

Hello, friends. What is the optimal mode of operation gas boiler? There are a number of contributing factors here. These are the conditions of its work, and its potential, and its design, etc.

The main motive for finding the best regimen is economic benefit. At the same time, equipment should provide maximum efficiency, and fuel is consumed minimally.

Factors affecting the operation of the boiler

They are as follows:

  1. Design. A technique can have 1 or 2 circuits. It can be wall or floor mounted.
  2. Standard and actual efficiency.
  3. Competent heating arrangement. The power of technology is comparable to the area that needs to be heated.
  4. Boiler technical conditions.
  5. Gas quality.

All these points need to be optimized so that the device gives out the best efficiency,

The question is about the design.

The device can have 1 or 2 circuits. The first option is complemented by an indirect heating boiler. The second already has everything you need. And the key mode in it is ensuring hot water... When water is supplied, heating ends.

Wall-mounted models have more modest power than floor-mounted models. And they can heat a maximum of 300 sq.m. If your living space more, a floor-standing device is required.

A.2 efficiency factors.

The document for each boiler reflects the standard parameter: 92-95%. For condensation modifications it is about 108%. But the actual parameter is usually 9-10% lower. It decreases even more due to heat losses. Their list:

  1. Physical underburn. The reason is the excess air in the apparatus when gas is burned, and the temperature of the exhaust gases. The larger they are, the more modest the boiler efficiency.
  2. Chemical underburning. The volume of CO2 monoxide produced by the combustion of carbon is important here. Heat is lost through the walls of the apparatus.

Methods for increasing the actual efficiency of the boiler:

  1. Removal of soot from the pipeline.
  2. Removal of limescale from the water circuit.
  3. Limit chimney draft.
  4. Adjust the position of the blower door so that the thermal medium reaches the maximum temperature.
  5. Eliminate soot on the combustion chamber.
  6. Installation of a coaxial chimney.

P.3 Questions about heating. As already noted, the power of the device necessarily correlates with the heating area. We need a competent calculation. The specifics of the structure and potential heat losses are taken into account. It is better to entrust the calculation to a professional.

If the house is built according to building codes, the formula is 100 W per 1 sq. M. It turns out the following table:

Area (sq. M.)Power.
MinimumMaximumMinimumMaximum
60 200 25
200 300 25 35
300 600 35 60
600 1200 60 100

It is better to purchase boilers of foreign production. Also in the advanced versions there are many useful options to help you achieve the optimal mode. One way or another, the optimal power of the device is in the range of 70-75% of the highest value.

Technical conditions. To prolong the life of the device, promptly remove soot and scale from the internal parts.

Optimal mode the operation of a gas boiler to save gas is achieved by eliminating the cycle. That is, you need to put the gas supply in smallest value... The attached instructions will help with this.

There is an aspect that cannot be influenced - this is the quality of the gas.

Optimal Mode Setting Methods

Many devices are programmed for the temperature of the heat carrier. When it reaches the required values, the unit turns off for a short time. The user can set the temperature himself. The parameters also change from the weather. For example, the optimal operating mode of a gas boiler in winter is obtained at values ​​of 70-80 C. In spring and autumn - at 55-70 C.

V modern models there are temperature sensors, thermostats and auto-tuning modes.

Thanks to the thermostat, you can set the desired climate in the room. And the heat carrier will warm up and cool down with a specific intensity. In this case, the device reacts to temperature fluctuations in the house and outside. This is the optimal operating mode for a floor-standing gas boiler. Although with the help of such devices, you can also optimize the mounted model. At night, the parameters can be reduced by 1-2 degrees.

Thanks to these devices, less gas is spent by 20%.

If you want a solid efficiency and savings from the boiler, get the right model. Some examples are offered below.

Model examples

  1. Baksi.

The optimal operating mode of this wall-mounted gas boiler is achieved as follows: small apartments indicators are put on F08 and F10. The modulation spectrum starts at 40% of the highest power. And the minimum possible operating mode is 9 kW.

Many models of this company are very economical and can work at low gas pressure. Pressure range: 9 - 17 mbar. Suitable voltage range: 165 - 240 V.

  1. Vilant.

Many devices of this brand work optimally under the following conditions: power - 15 kW. The feed is set to 50-60. The apparatus works for 35 minutes, and rests for 20 minutes.

  1. Ferroli.

The best conditions: for heating 13 kW, for heating water - 24 kW.

  1. Mercury.

The water pressure in the network is a maximum of 0.1 MPa. The highest temperature indicator at the outlet section is 90 C, the nominal flue gas indicator is at least 110 C. The vacuum behind the apparatus is a maximum of 40 Pa.

  1. Navien.

Basically, these are double-circuit units. Automation works here. The mode is configured by itself. The parameter for warming up the room is set. There is a pump that can reduce parameters by 4-5 degrees.

  1. Ariston.

Automatic setting of modes also works. People often choose models with the Comfort-Plus mode.

  1. Buderus.

The values ​​are usually set on the feed: 40 - 82 C. The current parameter is usually displayed on the monitor. The most convenient summer mode is at 75 C.

Conclusion

Thanks to the gas boiler, you can conveniently adjust the climate in the house. Especially if you are using an innovative technique with automation modes and many useful options.

A heating boiler is a device that, using the combustion of fuel (or electricity), heats the coolant.

The device (design) of the heating boiler: heat exchanger, heat-insulated casing, hydraulic block, as well as safety and automation elements for control and monitoring. For gas and diesel boilers, a burner is provided in the design, for solid fuel boilers - a firebox for wood or coal. Such boilers require a chimney to be connected to remove the combustion products. Electric boilers are equipped with heating elements, do not have burners and a chimney. Many modern boilers are equipped with built-in pumps for forced water circulation.

The principle of operation of the heating boiler- the coolant, passing through the heat exchanger, heats up and then circulates through the heating system, giving off the received thermal energy through radiators, underfloor heating, heated towel rails, and also providing water heating in an indirect heating boiler (if it is connected to the boiler).

A heat exchanger is a metal container in which a coolant (water or antifreeze) is heated - it can be made of steel, cast iron, copper, etc. Cast iron heat exchangers are resistant to corrosion and durable enough, but they are sensitive to sudden temperature changes and have heavy weight... Steel can suffer from rust, so their internal surfaces are protected with various anti-corrosion coatings to increase their service life. These heat exchangers are the most common in boiler manufacturing. Corrosion is not terrible for copper heat exchangers, and due to their high heat transfer coefficient, low weight and dimensions, such heat exchangers are popular, often used in wall-mounted boilers, but usually more expensive than steel ones.
In addition to the heat exchanger, an important part of gas or oil boilers is the burner, which can be different types: atmospheric or ventilated, single-stage or two-stage, smooth modulation, double. (A detailed description of the burners is presented in the articles on gas and oil boilers).

To control the boiler, automatic equipment with various settings and functions is used (for example, a weather-dependent control system), as well as devices for remote control of the boiler - a GSM module (regulation of the device's operation via SMS messages).

The main technical characteristics heating boilers are: boiler power, type of energy carrier, number of heating circuits, type of combustion chamber, type of burner, type of installation, availability of a pump, expansion tank, boiler automation, etc.

To determine required power a heating boiler for a house or apartment, a simple formula is used - 1 kW of boiler power to heat 10 m 2 of a well-insulated room with a ceiling height of up to 3 m. Accordingly, if heating is required basement glazed winter garden, premises with non-standard ceilings etc. the boiler output must be increased. It is also necessary to increase the power (about 20-50%) while providing a boiler and hot water supply (especially if it is necessary to heat the water in the pool).

Let us note the peculiarity of calculating the power of gas boilers: the nominal gas pressure at which the boiler operates at 100% of the capacity declared by the manufacturer, for most boilers is from 13 to 20 mbar, and the actual pressure in gas networks in Russia can be 10 mbar, and sometimes below. Accordingly, a gas boiler often works only at 2/3 of its capabilities and this must be taken into account when calculating. When choosing the power of the boiler, be sure to note all the features of the thermal insulation of the house and premises. In more detail, with the table for calculating the power of the heating boiler, you can


So which boiler is better to choose? Consider the types of boilers:

"Middle class"- average price in terms of level, not so prestigious, but quite reliable, standard ones are presented standard solutions... These are Italian boilers Ariston, Hermann and Baxi, Swedish Electrolux, German Unitherm and boilers from Slovakia Protherm.

"Economy class" - budget options, simple models, the service life is shorter than that of boilers of a higher category. Some manufacturers have budget models of boilers, for example,

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