The optimal mode of operation of a wall-mounted gas boiler. The optimal temperature of the coolant in a private house What temperature is better to set on a gas boiler

Decor elements 15.06.2019
Decor elements
I have a BAXI 24Fi boiler, it started just the other day and I immediately did not like its cyclical mode. Very often it ignites the burner (3 minutes, after the pump runs out). But the burner burns a little, literally 20-40 seconds and that's it. Perhaps the boiler power is too big for my heating system

I have a BAXI Eco3 Compact 240FI, an apartment of 85 sq.m. The first heating season, last year worked only on hot water. Before connection room thermostat clocked at a similar interval. At a higher water temperature (60-70 degrees), the burner operates from 40 seconds to 1.5 minutes, then there is a set burner turn-on delay of 30 or 150 seconds, depending on the T-off switch on the board. All this time the pump is running, since the board has a wired overrun time when working for heating - 3 minutes (it’s a pity that you can’t change it). During this time, t of water decreases by 10 degrees from the set value and the cycle repeats. By setting the t of water below (40 degrees), I reduced the burner's operating time to 30-50 seconds.
I experimented with adjusting the maximum power of the heating circuit - I did not notice significant deviations in the burner operation time. Water temperature has a greater effect.

Yes, it's already set up. The jumper on terminals 1 and 2 is, as it were, a "perpetual request for inclusion" from the thermostat. By replacing it with a smart box with a relay, you can limit the burner operation periods by the schedule during the day and week (electronic programmable thermostats) and the air temperature in the room (electronic and mechanical thermostats). The temperature of the coolant is recommended to choose higher (70-75 degrees).

When working without a thermostat, I had to monitor the temperature outside
Now +10 +15 overboard and even setting t=40 you can get heat in the rooms, plus clocking and excessive gas consumption.
With a thermostat, 75 degrees is recommended. Then, during the heating period, which allows raising the air temperature in the room by the “delta of the thermostat”, the water temperature does not have time to reach 75 degrees and the boiler has been operating continuously all this time. So far, at a positive temperature outside, I have this time of 15-20 minutes, when the water heats up to 60-65 degrees with a subsequent downtime of 1.5-2 hours.
Even if it heats the water to 75 before the air warms up, the boiler will turn off and turn on again after the required 150 seconds. just me. Here already the periods of heating will be short, but not numerous. Since the pump is running all this time, the radiators are hot and the air temperature will quickly reach the value set in the thermostat. After that, again idle at 1.5-2 hours.
Immediately set the maximum possible temperature (85 degrees), I think it is not necessary - there is still winter ahead.
And such a remark. After turning off by the thermostat, during the run-out time of the pump, the air in the room still heats up (I have +0.1 to the set one)
With more hot water there will be some "overcomfort" and overspending
So the temperature of the coolant in the presence of a room thermostat mainly determines the rate of heating to a given air temperature.

If about the air temperature delta in the characteristics of thermostats, then 0.5 is quite enough. In more expensive brands, it is also adjustable from 0.1 degrees. So far, I have not noticed the need for such precise temperature maintenance.
Much more interesting moment selection of comfortable and economical temperatures (in terms of some brands of thermostats with two levels of set temperature, these can be "day" and "night").
Usually the factory settings provide for a difference of 2-3 degrees.
But then in the morning before waking up, it will take much more time to raise the temperature to a comfortable temperature than for a heating cycle while maintaining a temperature with a delta of 0.5. Hence the increase in costs. The situation is the same if heating is set before returning from work, and during the day, in the absence of people, the apartment is heated in an economical mode.
Here, of course, you need experience and statistics in monitoring consumption.

If the thermostat holds the permission to operate the boiler (the temperature is below the set temperature), then the burner in the boiler burns constantly until the thermostat removes the permission (when the setpoint is reached) or what? Couldn't he just overheat at this time?

Will not overheat. The thermostat just allows, but does not oblige the boiler to work. When the set coolant temperature is reached, the burner will turn off regardless of the mode on the thermostat.

A heating boiler is a device that, by means of the combustion of fuel (or electricity), heats the coolant.

The device (design) of the heating boiler: heat exchanger, thermally insulated housing, hydraulic unit, as well as safety elements and automation for control and monitoring. For gas and diesel boilers, a burner is provided in the design, for solid fuel boilers - a firebox for firewood or coal. Such boilers require a chimney connection to remove combustion products. Electric boilers are equipped with heating elements, do not have burners and a chimney. Many modern boilers are equipped with built-in pumps for forced circulation of water.

The principle of operation of the heating boiler- the heat carrier, passing through the heat exchanger, heats up and then circulates through the heating system, giving off the received thermal energy through radiators, underfloor heating, heated towel rails, and also providing water heating in the indirect heating boiler (if it is connected to the boiler).

Heat exchanger - a metal container in which the coolant (water or antifreeze) is heated - can be made of steel, cast iron, copper, etc. Cast iron heat exchangers are resistant to corrosion and quite durable, but are sensitive to sudden temperature changes and have big weight. Steel can suffer from rust, so their internal surfaces are protected by various anti-corrosion coatings to increase their service life. Such heat exchangers are the most common in the manufacture of boilers. Corrosion is not terrible for copper heat exchangers, and due to the high heat transfer coefficient, low weight and dimensions, such heat exchangers are popular, often used in wall boilers, but usually more expensive than steel.
In addition to the heat exchanger, an important part of gas or liquid fuel boilers is a burner, which can be various kinds: atmospheric or fan, single-stage or two-stage, with smooth modulation, double. ( Detailed description burners are presented in articles about gas and liquid fuel boilers).

To control the boiler, automation is used with various settings and functions (for example, a weather-compensated control system), as well as devices for remote control of the boiler - a GSM module (controlling the operation of the device via SMS messages).

Main technical specifications heating boilers are: boiler power, type of energy carrier, number of heating circuits, type of combustion chamber, type of burner, type of installation, pump availability, expansion tank, boiler automation, etc.

To determine required power heating boiler for a house or apartment, a simple formula is used - 1 kW of boiler power for heating 10 m 2 of a well-insulated room with a ceiling height of up to 3 m. Accordingly, if heating is required basement, glazed winter garden, rooms with non-standard ceilings etc. boiler output must be increased. It is also necessary to increase the power (about 20-50%) while providing the boiler with hot water (especially if heating the water in the pool is necessary).

We note the feature of calculating the power of gas boilers: the nominal gas pressure at which the boiler operates at 100% of the power declared by the manufacturer for most boilers is from 13 to 20 mbar, and the actual pressure in gas networks in Russia can be 10 mbar, and sometimes below. Accordingly, a gas boiler often works only at 2/3 of its capacity, and this must be taken into account when calculating. When choosing the power of the boiler, be sure to note all the features of the thermal insulation of the house and premises. In more detail with a table for calculating the power of a heating boiler, you can


So which boiler is better to choose? Consider the types of boilers:

"Middle class"- average price, not so prestigious, but quite reliable, standard standard solutions. These are Italian boilers Ariston, Hermann and Baxi, Swedish Electrolux, German Unitherm and boilers from Slovakia Protherm.

"Economy class" - budget options, simple models, the service life is shorter than that of boilers of a higher category. Some manufacturers have budget models of boilers, for example,

The efficiency of the heating system depends on many factors. These include the rated power, the degree of heat transfer of radiators and the temperature regime of operation. For the latter indicator, it is important to choose the right degree of heating of the coolant. Therefore, it is necessary to determine the optimal temperature in the heating system for water, radiators and the boiler.

What determines the temperature of the water in the heating

For correct operation heat supply requires a graph of the temperature of the water in the heating system. According to it, the optimal degree of heating of the coolant is determined depending on the influence of certain external factors. It can be used to determine what water temperature in the heating batteries should be in a certain period of time the system is running.

It is a common misconception that the higher the degree of heating of the coolant, the better. However, this increases fuel consumption, increasing operating costs.

Often, the low temperature of the radiators is not a violation of the norms for heating the room. A low-temperature heat supply system was simply designed. That is why the exact calculation of water heating should be given Special attention.

Optimum temperature water in heating pipes largely depends on external factors. To determine it, the following parameters must be taken into account:

  • Heat loss at home. They are decisive for the calculation of any type of heat supply. Their calculation will be the first stage in the design of heat supply;
  • Boiler characteristics. If the operation of this component does not meet the design requirements, the water temperature in the heating system of a private house will not rise to the desired level;
  • Material for the manufacture of pipes and radiators. In the first case, it is necessary to use pipes with a minimum thermal conductivity. This will reduce heat losses in the system during the transportation of the coolant from the boiler heat exchanger to the radiators. For batteries, the opposite is important - high thermal conductivity. Therefore, the temperature of the water in the radiators central heating, made of cast iron, should be slightly higher than that of aluminum or bimetallic structures.

Is it possible to independently determine what temperature should be in the radiators? It depends on the characteristics of the system components. To do this, you should familiarize yourself with the properties of the batteries, the boiler and the heat supply pipes.

In a centralized heating system, the temperature of the heating pipes in the apartment is not an important indicator. It is important that the norms for heating the air in living rooms.

Heating standards in apartments and houses

In fact, the degree of water heating in pipes and heat supply radiators is a subjective indicator. It is much more important to know the heat dissipation of the system. It, in turn, depends on the minimum and Maximum temperature water in the heating system can be reached during operation.

For autonomous heat supply, the norms of central heating are quite applicable. They are detailed in the resolution of the PRF No. 354. It is noteworthy that the minimum water temperature in the heating system is not indicated there.

It is only important to observe the degree of heating of the air in the room. Therefore, in principle, the temperature regime of operation of one system can be different from another. It all depends on the influencing factors that were mentioned above.

In order to determine what temperature should be in the heating pipes, you should familiarize yourself with the current standards. In their content there is a division into residential and non-residential premises, as well as the dependence of the degree of air heating on the time of day:

  • In rooms during the daytime. In this case, the standard heating temperature in the apartment should be +18°C for rooms in the middle of the house and +20°C in the corners;
  • In living rooms at night. Some reduction is allowed. But at the same time, the temperature of the heating radiators in the apartment should provide, respectively, + 15 ° С and + 17 ° С.

Responsible for compliance with these standards Management Company. In case of their violation, you can request a recalculation of payment for heating services. For autonomous heat supply, a table of temperatures for heating is made, where the values ​​\u200b\u200bof the heating of the coolant and the degree of load on the system are entered. At the same time, no one bears responsibility for violation of this schedule. This will affect the comfort of staying in a private house.

For centralized heating, it is mandatory to maintain the required level of air heating in the landings and non-residential premises. The temperature of the water in the radiators must be such that the air is heated to a minimum value of +12°C.

Calculation of the temperature regime of heating

When calculating the heat supply, the properties of all components must be taken into account. This is especially true for radiators. What is the optimal temperature in the radiators - + 70 ° C or + 95 ° C? It all depends on the thermal calculation, which is performed at the design stage.

First you need to determine the heat loss in the building. Based on the data obtained, a boiler with the appropriate power is selected. Then comes the most difficult design stage - determining the parameters of heat supply batteries.

They must have a certain level of heat transfer, which will affect the temperature curve of the water in the heating system. Manufacturers indicate this parameter, but only for a certain mode of operation of the system.

If you need to spend 2 kW of thermal energy to maintain a comfortable level of air heating in a room, then the radiators must have no less heat transfer.

To determine this, you need to know the following quantities:

  • Permissible maximum water temperature in the heating system -t1. It depends on the power of the boiler, the temperature limit of exposure to pipes (especially polymer pipes);
  • Optimal the temperature that should be in the heating return pipes - t This is determined by the type of wiring of the mains (one-pipe or two-pipe) and the total length of the system;
  • Required degree of air heating in the room -t.

Tnap=(t1-t2)*((t1-t2)/2-t3)

Q=k*F*Tnap

Where k- heat transfer coefficient of the heating device. This parameter must be specified in the passport; F- radiator area; Tnap- thermal pressure.

By varying the various indicators of the maximum and minimum water temperatures in the heating system, you can determine the optimal mode of operation of the system. It is important to correctly initially calculate the required power of the heater. Most often, the indicator of low temperature in heating batteries is associated with heating design errors. Experts recommend adding a small margin to the obtained value of the radiator power - about 5%. This will be needed in case of a critical decrease in the temperature outside in the winter.

Most manufacturers indicate the heat output of radiators according to the accepted standards EN 442 for mode 75/65/20. This corresponds to the norm of the heating temperature in the apartment.

Water temperature in the boiler and heating pipes

After performing the above calculation, it is necessary to adapt the heating temperature table for the boiler and pipes. During the operation of the heat supply, emergency situations should not occur, common cause which is a violation of the temperature graph.

The normal indicator of water temperature in central heating batteries can be up to + 90 ° С. This is strictly monitored at the stage of preparation of the coolant, its transportation and distribution to residential apartments.

Much the situation is more complicated with autonomous heating. In this case, control completely depends on the owner of the house. It is important to ensure that there is no excess of water temperature in the heating pipes that goes beyond the schedule. This may affect the security of the system.

If the water temperature in the heating system of a private house exceeds the norm, the following situations may occur:

  • Pipeline damage. In particular, this applies to polymer lines, in which the maximum heating can be + 85 ° C. That is why the normal value of the temperature of the heating pipes in an apartment is usually + 70 ° C. Otherwise, deformation of the line may occur and a rush will occur;
  • Air heating excess. If the temperature of the heat supply radiators in the apartment provokes an increase in the degree of air heating above + 27 ° C - this is beyond the normal range;
  • Reduced service life of heating components. This applies to both radiators and pipes. Over time, the maximum temperature of the water in the heating system will lead to breakdown.

Also, a violation of the water temperature schedule in the autonomous heating system provokes the formation of air locks. This occurs due to the transition of the coolant from a liquid state to a gaseous state. Additionally, this affects the formation of corrosion on the surface of the metal components of the system. That is why it is necessary to accurately calculate what temperature should be in the heat supply batteries, taking into account their material of manufacture.

The most common violation thermal regime work is observed in solid fuel boilers. This is due to the problem of adjusting their power. When a critical temperature level in the heating pipes is reached, it is difficult to quickly reduce the boiler power.

The influence of temperature on the properties of the coolant

In addition to the above factors, the temperature of the water in the heat supply pipes affects its properties. This is the principle of operation of gravitational heating systems. With an increase in the level of heating of water, it expands and circulation occurs.

However, in the case of using antifreezes, the excess temperature in the radiators can lead to other results. Therefore, for heat supply with a coolant other than water, you must first find out the permissible indicators of its heating. This does not apply to the temperature of district heating radiators in the apartment, since antifreeze-based fluids are not used in such systems.

Antifreeze is used if there is a possibility of low temperature affecting the radiators. Unlike water, it does not begin to change from a liquid to a crystalline state when it reaches 0°C. However, if the work of heat supply is outside the norms of the temperature table for heating upwards, the following phenomena may occur:

  • Foaming. This entails an increase in the volume of the coolant and, as a consequence, an increase in pressure. The reverse process will not be observed when the antifreeze cools;
  • Formation of limescale. The composition of antifreeze includes a certain amount of mineral components. If the norm of the heating temperature in the apartment is violated in a big way, their precipitation begins. Over time, this will lead to clogging of pipes and radiators;
  • Increasing the density index. There may be malfunctions in the operation of the circulation pump if its rated power was not designed for the occurrence of such situations.

Therefore, it is much easier to monitor the temperature of the water in the heating system of a private house than to control the degree of heating of antifreeze. In addition, ethylene glycol-based compounds emit a gas harmful to humans during evaporation. Currently, they are practically not used as a coolant in autonomous systems heat supply.

Before pouring antifreeze into the heating, all rubber gaskets should be replaced with paranitic ones. This is due to the increased permeability of this type of coolant.

Ways to normalize the temperature regime of heating

The minimum value of the water temperature in the heating system is not the main threat to its operation. This, of course, affects the microclimate in residential premises, but in no way affects the functioning of heat supply. In case of excess of norm of heating of water there can be emergencies.

When drawing up a heating scheme, it is necessary to provide for a number of measures aimed at eliminating a critical increase in water temperature. First of all, this will lead to an increase in pressure and an increase in the load on the inner surface of pipes and radiators.

If this phenomenon is one-time and short-lived, the heat supply components may not be affected. However, such situations arise under the constant influence of certain factors. Most often, this is the incorrect operation of a solid fuel boiler.

  • Installing a security group. It consists of an air vent, a bleed valve and a pressure gauge. If the water temperature reaches a critical level, these components will remove excess coolant, thereby ensuring the normal circulation of the liquid for its natural cooling;
  • mixing unit. It connects the return and supply pipes. Additionally, a two-way valve with a servo drive is installed. The latter is connected to a temperature sensor. If the value of the degree of heating exceeds the norm, the valve will open and the flows of hot and cooled water will mix;
  • Electronic heating control unit. It records the temperature of the water in various parts of the system. In case of violation of the thermal regime, he will give the appropriate command to the boiler processor to reduce power.

These measures will help prevent incorrect operation of the heating for another initial stage the occurrence of a problem. The most difficult thing is to regulate the level of water temperature in systems with a solid fuel boiler. Therefore, for them, special attention should be paid to the choice of parameters of the safety group and the mixing unit.

The effect of water temperature on its circulation in heating is described in detail in the video:

Disclaimer:
I must say right away that I am not an expert and I understand little about boilers. Therefore, everything that is written below can and should be treated with skepticism. Do not kick me, but I will be glad to hear alternative points of view. I was looking for information for myself on how to optimally use a gas boiler so that it lasts as long as possible and so that less heat release into the pipe.

It all started with the fact that I did not know what temperature of the coolant to choose. There is a selection wheel, but there is no information on this topic. not in the instructions anywhere. It was really hard to find her. I made some notes for myself. I can't vouch that they are correct, but they might be useful to someone. This topic is not for the sake of a holivar, I do not urge you to buy this or that model, but I want to figure out how it works and what depends on what.

Essence:
1) The efficiency of any boiler is higher than colder water in the internal radiator. A cold radiator takes all the heat from the burner into itself, releasing air at a minimum temperature into the street.

2) The only loss in efficiency that I see is only exhaust gases. Everything else remains within the walls of the house (we are only considering the case when the boiler is in a room that needs heating. I no longer see why the efficiency can decrease.

3) Important. Do not confuse the efficiency plug that is written in the specifications (for example, from 88% to 90%) with what I am writing about. This fork does not refer to the temperature of the coolant, but only to the power of the boiler.

What does it mean? Many boilers can operate with high efficiency even at 40-50% of the nominal power. For example, my boiler can operate at 11 kW and at 28 kW (this is regulated by pressure in gas burner). The manufacturer says that the efficiency at 11 kW will be 88%, and at 28 kW - 90%.

But what water temperature should be in the boiler radiator, the manufacturer does not indicate (or I did not find it). It is quite possible that when the radiator is heated to 88 degrees, the efficiency drops by 20 percent. I don't know. It is necessary to measure heat losses with outgoing gases. but I'm too lazy for that.

4) Why not set all boilers to minimum temperature coolant? Because when the radiator is cold (and 30-50 degrees, it is already very cold, relative to the burner flame) - condensate forms on it from water and compounds that are mixed in the gas. It's like cold glass in a bathroom where water collects. Only there is not pure water, but also any chemistry from gas. This condensate is very harmful to most of the materials from which the radiator inside the boiler is made (cast iron, copper).

5) Condensation in large quantities falls when the temperature of the radiator is colder than 58 degrees. This is a fairly constant value because the combustion temperature of the gas is approximately constant. And the amount of impurities and water in the gas is standardized by GOSTs.

Therefore, there is a rule that in ordinary boilers the return flow should be 60 degrees and above. Otherwise, the radiator will quickly fail. The boilers even have a special feature - when the burner is turned on, they turn off circulation pump to quickly heat your radiator to the desired temperature, reducing condensation on it.

4) Yes condensing boilers- their trick is that they are not afraid of condensate, on the contrary, they try to cool the combustion products to the maximum, which contributes to increased condensate precipitation (there is no miracle in such boilers, condensate in this case just a by-product of cooling the exhaust gases). Thus, they do not release excess heat into the pipe, using all the heat to the maximum. But even when using such boilers, if you need to heat the coolant a lot (if there are few batteries / warm floors installed in the house and you don’t have enough heat) - the hot radiator (at least 60 degrees) of this boiler can no longer take all the heat out of the air. And its efficiency drops to almost normal values. And almost no condensate is formed, flying out into the pipe along with kilowatts of heat.

5) The low temperature of the coolant (a characteristic that is given as a load to condensing boilers) is good for everyone - it does not destroy plastic pipes, it can be directly let into the warm floor, hot radiators do not raise dust, do not create wind in the room (air movement from hot batteries reduces comfort), it is impossible to burn yourself with them, they do not contribute to the decomposition of paints and varnishes near radiators (less harmful substances). By the way, more than 85 degrees of the battery is generally forbidden to heat according to sanitary measures, precisely because of the reasons voiced above.

But the low temperature of the coolant has one minus. The efficiency of radiators (batteries in the house) is highly dependent on temperature. The lower the coolant temperature, the lower the efficiency of the radiators. But this does not mean that you will pay more for gas (this efficiency has nothing to do with gas). But this means that you will need to buy and install more radiators / underfloor heating so that they can give the same amount of heat to the house at a lower operating temperature.

If at 80 degrees you need one radiator in the room, then at 30 degrees you need three of them (I took these numbers out of my head).

6) In addition to condensing, there are boilers "low temperature". I have just one. They seem to be able to live at a water temperature of 40 degrees. Condensation also forms there, but it seems to be not as strong as in conventional boilers. There are some engineering solutions that reduce its intensity (double walls of the radiator inside the boiler or some other parsley, there is very little information about this). Perhaps this is stupid marketing and works only in words? I don't know.

For myself, I decided to set at least 50-55 degrees so that the return line was at least about 40(offhand, I don't have a thermometer). For me, this is a salvation, because my underfloor heating was not installed correctly (the house already had all the wiring when I bought it), and it would be completely wrong to heat them with water at 70 degrees. I would have to rebuild the collector, add another pump ... And 50-60 degrees for me is generally normal in warm floors, I have a thick screed, the floor is not hot. Whether this is bad or not bad, I don’t know, but it already exists and nothing can be done about it. Although, I suspect that the efficiency still suffers a little from this, and the screed does not become stronger from wild drops. But what to do.

The question, of course, is how all this will affect the efficiency and radiator of the boiler. But I have no information on this topic.

7) For conventional boiler, apparently, it is optimal to heat the water to 80-85 degrees. Apparently, if 80 is the supply, then the return will be about 60 on average in the hospital. Someone even says that this way the efficiency is higher, but I do not see any reasonable reason why the efficiency can increase with the temperature of the coolant. It seems to me that the efficiency of the boiler should fall with an increase in the temperature of the coolant (remember the gases that leave the house into the pipe).

8) I already wrote why hot coolant is not welcome. And once again I will emphasize one opinion that I saw on the Internet. They say for plastic pipes The maximum reasonable temperature is 75 degrees. I am sure that the pipes will withstand 100 degrees, but high temperatures seem to lead to increased wear. I have no idea what is "wearing out" there, maybe it's a fake. But I'm still not a supporter of running boiling water through pipes. All reasons are listed above.

9) From all this follows the opinion (not mine) that weather-dependent automation is almost never needed, because it regulates the temperature of the coolant is not optimal for the long-term use of the boiler (or killing its efficiency). That is, if the boiler is condensing, then it is better to heat up to one temperature, and increase it only if it is very cold in the house. It depends primarily on the house, insulation and the number of radiators (and last but not least on the temperature outside). And it’s still better to heat an ordinary boiler to 70 degrees, otherwise it’s a khan. Accordingly, low-temperature somewhere in the region of 50-55 on average. Manual control steers? Twice during the winter, you can manually increase the temperature if you feel that the radiators are no longer giving enough heat to the house.

In general, it is a pity that there is no plate from the manufacturer with the ideal calculated coolant for each boiler. In order to sharpen all CO under this temperature.

Once again - I’m finally a teapot and I don’t pretend to be anything, I understood the topic for only a few hours. But I know for sure that there is very little information on this topic and I will be glad if this thread serves as a starting point for discussion, even if I am wrong on all counts.

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