Fatsia - home care. Fatsia

Japanese fatsia is a fast-growing tree that reaches indoor conditions heights of 1.5 - 2 m, in the natural environment the size of this amazing plant twice as much. Fatsia's decorative value lies in its shiny, bright green leathery leaves. Unlike leaves, fatsia flowers are small and inconspicuous.

V last years Fatsia has gained great popularity and wide distribution among lovers of indoor greenery. And although this plant is quite unpretentious, but, like any exotic in our homes, fatsia needs special care and certain conditions of detention.

Prefers well-lit places, but does not like direct sunlight although variegated varieties require more coverage. In summer, it is advisable to take the plant out to the balcony, as it needs Fresh air.

Be careful about watering the fatsia. Drying out of the soil is unacceptable, as well as stagnation of water in the sump. Leaves of a plant drooping due to improper watering, it is almost impossible to restore it to its former form.

To maintain the decorative appearance of the leaves, wipe them regularly with a soft, damp cloth. If you decide to use a spray to add gloss, use only well-proven manufacturers. The plant must breathe.

The most common fatsias in growing are red spider mites, aphids and gray rot. Let's consider them in more detail.

Aphid... It is easily recognizable in dense clusters at growing points, on young leaves and shoots. The greatest danger posed by aphids is transference viral diseases and weakening the plant. Fortunately, this type of pest is easily eradicated, it is enough to wash the plant well with soapy water, and then treat it with tobacco or wormwood infusion. In addition, aphids are too sensitive to most plant protection poisons.

Gray rot... This fungal disease fatsia appears due to an excess of moisture. Rot is capable of affecting any aerial part of the plant. To get rid of it, mechanical intervention is necessary, the affected parts will have to be cut off with a sharp knife, after which the air humidity should be lowered and its circulation in the room improved.

Pliers... The most difficult-to-remove pest of Fatsia, which feels good in a human dwelling. Initially, a spider mite lesion manifests itself in the form of yellowish spots on the plant, which gradually acquire a brown color. To prevent the disease, you can use regular spraying (the mite does not like high humidity). The spider mite does not tolerate ultraviolet rays, so you can use an ultraviolet lamp to fight it or take the flower outside. The mite is a worthy opponent, so avoid using chemicals will fail. The most effective drugs for fighting this pest today include "Actellik", "Fitoverm", "Neoron". When using drugs, carefully read the instructions to avoid negative consequences.

Protect your plant from unfavorable conditions, and you will be able to enjoy its splendor for many years.

How to properly care for fatsia?- You can find out about the proper care of your pet on our website,

What's with the fatcia? She began to fall lower leaves, apparent reasons there is no ill health. Maybe it's a pest after all? - There is nothing dangerous in the falling of the lower leaves, this is the normal development of plants. There is nothing you can do about it. It is not a disease or a pest.

How does Fatsia breed?- It can be propagated in spring by apical cuttings from air layers or by seeds, and in summer stem cuttings.

How to form Japanese fatsia from a bush into a tree (with a thick long trunk)?- Japanese Fatsia is a fast-growing tree, reaching a height of 1.5 m in indoor conditions. The trunk is relatively thin, has lateral shoots, in good conditions completely leafy, and if for some reason it is exposed, the fatsia is rejuvenated. It is impossible to shape the Fatsia the way you want.

Why do fatsia leaves become soft and then fall off? - Most likely you have waterlogged the soil. To prevent the plant from dying, adjust the watering.

How to pour fatsia into a pallet or from above?- You can find information about watering on our website by going

What is the reason for the change in the color of the leaves, do they turn pale and curl?- Leaves turn pale from lack or excess of light, nutrition (especially nitrogen, iron, trace elements), irregular watering, as well as from pests and diseases.

Why did the leaves of Fatsia begin to lose elasticity after transplanting?- Poor health in plants after transplantation is a natural phenomenon. Damaged roots are unable to support the plant the required amount water, so the leaves begin to fade. After transplantation, the plants get sick for 1.5-2 months. After transplanting, the soil can neither be waterlogged nor overdried. The soil should dry out to the bottom of the pot in a week. Leaves should be sprayed with plain water at room temperature 5-6 times a day, and once a week sprayed with a fertilizer solution and sprayed with Epin's solution (2-3 drops per glass of water). The first root dressing can be done 3 weeks after transplanting. Fatsia care is described.

Why do the tips of the leaves of Fatsia dry?- At insufficient watering the tips of the leaves dry out.

As for fatsia, it does not grow, the leaves turn yellow, and forms on the underside of the leaf white bloom? - Most likely, some kind of pest has wound up on your Fatsia, sucking out cell juice. And against this kind of pests, drugs of systemic action, poisoning the cell sap of the plant, are very helpful. Use Aktara - add it to irrigation water 1-2 times a month.

Where is the best place to place the Fatsia?- You can find out about the location of Fatsia

Our grandmothers, growing garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, were not particularly worried about mulching. But today this agricultural practice has become fundamental in achieving high quality berries and reducing crop losses. Someone might say that it is troublesome. But practice shows that labor costs in this case are repaid a hundredfold. In this article, we invite you to get acquainted with the nine best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

Succulents are very diverse. Despite the fact that “babies” have always been considered more fashionable, the assortment of succulents that can be used to decorate a modern interior is worth taking a closer look at. After all, colors, sizes, patterning, degree of prickle, influence on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article, we will tell you about the five most fashionable succulents that amazingly transform modern interiors.

Mint was used by the Egyptians as early as 1.5 thousand years BC. It has a strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils with high volatility. Today mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article, we will consider the most interesting varieties of mint, and also talk about the features of growing this plant in the open field.

People began to grow crocuses as early as 500 years before the advent of our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the heralds of spring next year. Crocuses are one of the earliest primroses that bloom as soon as the snow melts. However, flowering times may vary depending on species and varieties. This article focuses on the earliest crocus varieties that bloom in late March and early April.

Cabbage soup from early young cabbage on beef broth - hearty, aromatic and easy to prepare. In this recipe, you will learn how to cook a delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup in this broth. Early cabbage cooks quickly, so it is put into the pot at the same time as the rest of the vegetables, unlike fall cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready-made cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. The present cabbage soup is tastier than the freshly cooked one.

Blueberry is an uncommon promising berry culture in the gardens. Blueberries are a source of biologically active substances and vitamins, have antiscorbutic, anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, restorative properties. Berries contain vitamins C, E, A, flavonoids, anthocyanins, trace elements - zinc, selenium, copper, manganese, as well as plant hormones - phytoestrogens. Blueberry berries taste like a mixture of grapes and blueberries.

Looking at the variety of tomato varieties, it is difficult not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. Even experienced gardeners he is sometimes embarrassing! However, it is not so difficult to understand the basics of selecting varieties "for yourself". The main thing is to delve into the peculiarities of culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest tomato groups to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been appreciated by those gardeners who do not have a lot of energy and time to care for the beds.

Once very popular under the name of indoor nettles, and then forgotten by everyone, Coleus today are one of the brightest garden and indoor plants. They are not in vain considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are looking primarily for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding as to suit everyone, Coleus require constant monitoring. But if you take care of them, the bushes of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.

Salmon ridge baked in Provencal herbs - "supplier" tasty pieces fish pulp for light salad with fresh leaves of wild garlic. Champignons are lightly fried in olive oil and then sprinkled with apple cider vinegar. These mushrooms are tastier than regular pickled mushrooms and are better for baked fish. Ramson and fresh dill get along well in one salad, emphasizing the aroma of each other. The garlic pungency of wild garlic will saturate both the flesh of the salmon and the pieces of mushrooms.

Conifer tree or a shrub on the site is always great, and a lot of conifers are even better. Emerald needles different shades decorates the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils secreted by plants not only flavor, but also make the air cleaner. As a rule, most of the zoned adult conifers are considered to be very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require competent care and attention.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the shade flowering trees have long been an integral part of the meeting of spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. The financial and academic year begins here on April 1, when the magnificent cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese are marked by their blossoming. But sakura grows well in cooler regions - certain species can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

I am very interested in analyzing how the tastes and addictions of people to certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and was an object of trade lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for over 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century BC. e. about 6 varieties of quince were known, and even then methods of its reproduction and cultivation were described.

Delight your family and make themed Easter egg-shaped cottage cheese cookies! Your kids will be happy to take part in the process - they will sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration how the pieces of dough turn into real Easter eggs, and then they will eat them with the same enthusiasm with milk or tea. How to make such an original cookie for Easter, read our step by step recipe!

There are not so many decorative leafy pets among tuberous crops. And Caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of interiors. Not everyone can decide to start a Caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all - to care. But still, rumors about the extraordinary capriciousness of the Caladiums never justify. Care and attention will help to avoid any difficulties in growing caladiums. And a plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply elementary dish for you today. This gravy is one hundred percent universal, as it goes with every side dish: vegetables, pasta, or whatever. Gravy with chicken and mushrooms will save you in moments when there is no time or you don't want to think too much about what to cook. Grab your favorite side dish (you can do it ahead of time to keep everything hot), add the gravy and lunch is ready! A real lifesaver.

Luxurious, magnificent, royal, chic - all this can be said about Fatsia, which is among the most beautiful houseplants. Large carved leaves unusual shape, glossy green or covered with a pattern, assembled in a dense socket, make fatsia a real decoration of any interior. Fastia looks especially harmonious in large rooms: halls, living rooms, lobbies. You will learn how to grow this beauty and how to take care of her from our publication.

The genus Fatsia (lat. Fatsia) is not large and belongs to the Araliev family. The closest relatives of the exotic beauty are the shefflera, the scabbard, ivy and aralia. The original name of Fatsia - Japanese Aralia, also speaks of family ties, however, later, in order to avoid confusion, Fatsia was called own name... The current name comes from Japanese word"Fatsi", meaning the number eight, emphasizing the eight-lobed leaf structure.

In nature, fatsia is an evergreen shrub with few branches, in some places it takes the form of a small tree. Distributed mainly on the islands of Japan and Taiwan, on the territory of Russia it is found in the Far East.

In its homeland, in Japan, as well as in China, fatsia is widely used as landscape decoration site and in folk medicine. A decoction of the plant treats rheumatism, colds, diabetes and many other diseases. And the stimulating effect of fatsia decoctions, used, for example, to increase blood pressure, is even higher than that of ginseng.

[!] Do not self-medicate - remember, fatsia, like many plants of the Araliaceae family, does not contain a large number of poisonous substances. Therefore, improper use of the plant can harm health.

As mentioned above, fatsia is a spreading shrub with several shoots and large leaves at their end. Leaves are dense, glossy, dissected into 7-10 segments. The lower, older leaves can be whole or have only 2-3 lobes. Small white flowers, collected in a panicle, are of no decorative value. After flowering, blue-black berries are formed on the shrub.

V natural conditions you can find only three types of fatsia (F.japonica, F.oligocarpella, F.polycarpa), and as a room culture, only one of them is grown.

Type of room fatsia, varieties

Botanists have adapted only one type of fatsia to domestic conditions: this is Japanese fatsia (lat.Fatsia Japonica). The plant is very impressive: large carved leaves adorn a branched bush.

The leaves of common Japanese fatsia are even, bright green in color. But, over time, breeders also bred variegated varieties, which, in addition, differ in size:

F. Japonica "Moseri" is a small neat shrub with glossy dense rich green leaves;

F. Japonica "Variegata" - leaf blades of this variety are decorated with light green spots scattered in a chaotic manner;

F. Japonica variegata "Camouflage" - a brightly distinguished lighter core of the leaf and a dark green tint around the edges, the color resembles a camouflage pattern;

F. Japonica "Annelise" - slightly changed, compared to the usual Japanese fatsia, the shape of the leaf is more elongated and elongated, the center and main veins are light green;

F. Japonica "Spider's Web" - large carved leaves, as it were, are sprinkled with silver flour along the edges, the pattern of veins, painted in a dark green color, is well expressed.

Sometimes one of the varieties is considered a hybrid of fatsia and ivy - fatshedera, but, from a botanical point of view, this is not entirely true: fatshedera is a separate plant.

Fatsia care at home

Room fatsia will not deliver special trouble the Japanese beauty is unpretentious to its owner. At the same time, Fatsia is one of the most shade-tolerant plants that can be placed both on the windowsills of the northern orientation, and in the back of the room. The shrub takes cool fresh air well, so in summer the plant can be taken out to the loggia, veranda or garden plot. However, first things first ...

Temperature and lighting

Fatsia is a plant of a mild temperate climate with a change of seasons. Therefore, the comfortable temperature range for keeping a Japanese guest differs depending on the season.

In summer, the plant develops well at 18-24 ° C, in winter the temperature should be slightly lower. The best wintering for fatsia is a rather low temperature, not higher than 12 ° C, it is in this case that a full dormant period of the plant begins. Such conditions can be organized by taking out the flower pot to the glazed loggia or veranda of the house. However, if there is no cool winter room, fatsia will winter well in an ordinary room.

Fatsia does not tolerate only a strong summer heat- air temperature above 25 ° C can be detrimental to the plant.

Since Fatsia prefers coolness, the open, scorching sun will damage the plant. Therefore, the best place to place japanese beauties there will be shaded spaces: east or west window sills, surfaces in the back of the room. However, the complete absence of light will have a bad effect on the flower - the fatsia can stop its growth.

Watering and humidity

As with other plants that stop developing in winter, watering the fatsia should differ depending on the season. During the dormant period, the frequency of watering should not exceed once a month; in the summer, the plant needs much more moisture. The regularity of summer watering is about one to two times a week.

[!] To more accurately determine if water is required, use a proven method. Pierce the soil in a bowl wooden stick if the top third of the earth is dry, you can water it.

[!] Be careful: even due to a single overdrying of the earthen coma, the Fatsia can drop the leaves. In the future, it will be very difficult to reanimate such a plant.

Water for irrigation should be soft, separated, at room temperature. From too tough tap water ugly white streaks may appear on glossy leaves and stems. To avoid lower root decay, excess liquid must be drained from the pallet.

Air humidity, as well as watering, should be increased in the warm season. Fatsia will gratefully respond to spraying and showering during the hot summer months. In addition, high humidity will prevent the emergence of spider mites, one of the most dangerous insect pests. In winter, you do not need to spray the shrub.

As for the air, one more important point- protect fatsia from drafts, especially at low winter temperatures. Cold gusts of air, and especially in conjunction with intensive watering, can damage the delicate leaves, subsequently they will not recover.

Soil, top dressing, transplanting

The soil most suitable for fatsia should have the following characteristics: water and air permeability, neutral acidity. You can independently make up a soil mixture by taking sod and leafy soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1. In addition, ready-made soils are not bad - universal ones based on sod land with a small addition of sand.

In the warm season, especially in spring and early summer, fatsia needs to be fed. For this, universal fertilizers for decorative deciduous plants are best suited. The required feeding dose is calculated based on the manufacturer's recommendations.

Unfortunately, the Japanese Aralia is one of those plants that do not tolerate transplanting well. After moving to another container, fatsia usually gets sick and takes a long time to adapt to new conditions. However, from time to time, you still need to replant the plant. You can find out whether a transplant is required by the roots: if they appeared from the drainage hole, the time has come. On average, adult specimens are transplanted every two to three years.

[!] For planting fatsia, use only small pots (1-1.5 cm more than the volume of the earthen clod). Crockery "for growth" will not work, too much soil will negatively affect the health of the plant.

The least traumatic method of transplanting is transshipment. The shrub is removed from the old container and, together with the earthen lump, is moved to a new one, while adding fresh substrate. Don't forget about good layer drainage - at least one quarter of the entire height of the pot. However, this method of transplant will not work if you have just bought a fatsia.

What to do after buying fatsia

After you bring the fatsia home from the store, it needs to be transplanted. The fact is that all store plants are sold in peat-based transport soil, unsuitable for long-term cultivation.

[!] Peat tends to stick to the roots and retain moisture. Because of this, the roots often rot despite the fact that the plant is not overflowed and, in general, the substrate seems dry.

So, the scheme for transplanting purchased fatsia:

• A little, within 1-2 days, dry the substrate;
• Remove the bushes from the store container and dry the soil again;
• Remove all peat;
• Peat adhering to the roots must also be cleaned. The procedure is carried out very carefully, trying not to damage the thin roots;
• Spray the roots freed from peat with any root formation stimulator and immunomodulator ("Zircon", "Kornevin") and transplant into a fresh substrate;
• Do not water the plant for 3-4 days after transplanting.

It must be borne in mind that even the most gentle method of transplanting will have a bad effect on fatsia and the plant will definitely get sick.

Pruning

In order for the fatsia to always look spectacular and decorative, from time to time the plant needs to be pruned a little.

[!] After pruning, the fatsia usually becomes thicker: many new shoots appear.

For removal, old, overgrown shoots or branches thickening the shrub are selected. It is important not to be too zealous with pruning and to remove only a few, really interfering, stems. Otherwise, the Fatsia may die.

If the plant has grown too tall for the room it is in, pruning will help to adjust its size. For this, several main shoots of the shrub are removed, after which the fatsia begins to actively build up lateral shoots, while practically not developing in height.

Reproduction

Fatsia can be propagated in several ways: by seeds, cuttings and layering.

Seed propagation- one of the most time consuming and unreliable methods. Firstly, the seeds of Fatsia are difficult to collect, and secondly, they give extremely low germination, well, and thirdly, varietal characteristics are lost when propagated by seeds.

For those who are not afraid of difficulties, a little more about this method. Preliminary harvested seeds peeled from the pulp, dried a little and soaked for one day in water or a damp cloth. After that, the prepared seeds are sown in a mixture of sand and peat or turf and sand, deepening by about 0.5 cm. The dishes are rearranged in a warm place and wait for germination. When the sprouts get stronger and the first pair of full-fledged leaves appear, the fatsia must be transplanted into a regular substrate, and in the future it must be looked after as an adult plant.

Propagation by cuttings usually held in the spring. For this, apical cuttings with several buds are cut off, placed in a peat-sand mixture and, to imitate a greenhouse, are covered glass jar or plastic bottle... From time to time, the rooting cutting should be ventilated by removing the jar and watered with water at room temperature. The dishes with the handle should be placed in a warm and light place.

Formation air layering- a method of reproduction that requires some skills in floriculture. An adult plant shoot is cut in a circle, and the cut sites are covered with sphagnum, which must be constantly moistened. Within two to three months, thin roots will appear at the cut site, after which the shoot can be cut slightly below the roots that have appeared and transplanted into a new container.

Diseases, pests and growing problems

The main pest that threatens fatsia is the spider mite. This insect is difficult to spot. after all, its size is too small, and the cobweb that it leaves is practically invisible. And only when the symptoms are clearly manifested on the leaves, growers begin to sound the alarm. If the cause of the flower's malaise is a spider mite, it is necessary to wash off the harmful invader, and treat the plant with modern insecticides.

Fatsia rarely gets sick - there are no diseases inherent only to this plant. All ailments of Fatsia are associated exclusively with improper care... Especially common mistake owners of the Japanese azalea - too intensive watering. It is because of this that root rot can appear, one of the most dangerous diseases, which, moreover, is very difficult to cure.

Fatsia leaves curl. Probable cause- the appearance of a spider mite. What to do: you need to carefully examine the plant and, if a cobweb is found and small insects, treat it with insecticides.

The leaves became lethargic, soft and yellowed, the shoots lose their turgor. Symptoms indicate root rot due to flooding of the plant. What to do: remove the fatsia from the bowl, carefully examine the root. If there are rotten areas, cut them off, sprinkle the cuts with root roots. Then completely replace the soil and plant the shrub again.

Fatsia leaf tips turn yellow- this, on the contrary, suggests that the flower does not have enough water. What to do: increase the intensity of watering.

The tips of the leaves turn brown and dry- in the case when watering is sufficient, such a symptom may indicate excessive dryness of the air. What to do: carry out procedures aimed at increasing air humidity.

Yellow spots on leaf plates- possibly a sunburn. What to do: shade the shrub.

Lower leaves of Fatsia turn yellow and fall... If the rest of the plant looks healthy, it's okay - the usual green mass renewal takes place.

The underside of the fatsia leaf is covered with a brownish washable fuzz- everything is in order, this is a feature of the structure of the sheet plate.

Fatsia is not growing. If such a phenomenon is observed in winter, this is the norm - the bush has a dormant period, if in summer, there may be a lack of lighting or nutrients... What to do: Move to a lighter place and fertilize.

Brownish-yellow rounded swollen dots on the leaf plate - signs of a scale insect. The pest is dangerous for fatsia, and, in addition, plants in the vicinity can become infected. What to do: Treat the shrub with insecticides.

Beauty Fatsia is gorgeous and able to decorate any room. A little simple maintenance - and this green wonder will give you all its natural beauty. (1 assessments, the average: 5.00 out of 5)

Fatsia is a plant that has long been loved by flower growers. It gained particular popularity at the beginning of the twentieth century due to the fact that it grows quickly and multiplies easily. This is the most beautiful evergreen shrub strikes with chic smooth leaves that look like maple leaves. According to the teachings of Feng Shui, Fatsia is able to protect a positive atmosphere in the home.

Origin, species and varieties of fatsia

The homeland of Fatsia (lat. Fatsia) is Japan, although in the wild this evergreen shrub, reaching 6 meters in height, can be found not only in the "Land of the Rising Sun", but also along the reservoirs of Taiwan and South Korea. The plant has beautiful, leathery, heart-shaped leaves, which eventually split into 5-9 lobes. It is the leaves that are its main advantage and the reason for its immense popularity. Umbrella inflorescences of white and greenish-yellow color attract with their sophistication, although they do not have a special decorative value. Fatsia naturally grows in shady and humid places.

Fatsia belongs to the monotypic genus of dicotyledonous plants from the Araliaceae family (Fam. Araliaceae). Only one species is grown indoors - Japanese fatsia. It also has another name - Siebold's Fatsia. The plant has been cultivated for about three centuries, but it was brought to Europe much later - in the middle of the 19th century.

Japanese fatsia can reach a height of 1.5 meters, it grows rather quickly (it almost doubles in a year) and reproduces well. The following varieties are very popular:

• Spider's Web (white strokes are scattered all over the foliage);
• Variegata (dark green foliage is bordered by light stripes);
• Annelise (golden hue);
• Murakumo Nishiki (pale yellowish in color);
• Tsumugi Shibori (has many white spots).

No less attractive is the Fatshedera Lizei - a plant that appeared as a result of the crossing of Fatsia and common ivy. This hybrid has lobed dark green leaves and a thin long stem (up to 5 m).

It is interesting! Fatsia Japanese can absorb and throw out all the negativity from the house, thereby creating a warm, peaceful and cozy atmosphere.

Sometimes fatsia is called aralia, although fatsia is indoor plant, and aralia - garden perennial... In the wild, there are such types of aralia: Manchu, continental, heart-shaped. The latter (Aralia cordata) is closest in appearance to fatsia. This herbaceous plant with pinnate double leaves on long petioles. In nature, it can be found in clearings, forest edges only on Sakhalin and Kuril Islands... Aralia roots are used with therapeutic purpose- on their basis, medical preparations are made.

Photo gallery: varieties of fatsia

Fatsia variety Spider's Web Fatsia variety Variegata Fatsia variety Mizeri Fatsia variety Tsumugi Shibori Fatsia variety Murakumo Nishiki Fatshedera common Fatshedera variegated

Requirements for the conditions of keeping Fatsia

Fatsia is watered with soft, settled water at room temperature. Since the flower loves high humidity air, it should be sprayed with water (30 ° C) once a day, put under a warm shower and wipe the leaves with a soft material. Such procedures are carried out in the spring and summer. Variegated fatsias are more demanding on lighting and heat... Even during the cold dormant period, they need a temperature of at least 16 ° C.

In winter, the plant is placed in a cooler, but sufficiently illuminated place. For many flower growers it is extremely difficult to find suitable conditions. In this case, of course, highlighting is indispensable. The best option- installation of cold-white fluorescent lamps.

For fatsia, 6-8 hours of artificial lighting a day is enough.

Table: growing conditions for fatsia

Plant transplant

The flower is transplanted in the first two years of life once a year, then every three to four years. After the purchase, the fatsia must also be transplanted in order to replace the plastic pot with an earthen one and change the substrate. A clay pot is selected in diameter 3-4 cm larger than the root system of the flower and 5 cm deeper than the previous pot, always with drain holes.

If there is only one hole, then several more can be drilled so that the earthen lump does not become waterlogged.

The pores in the clay pot will help the moisture evaporate quickly. A deeper capacity is needed so that the roots of the fatsia do not grow into the holes and do not suffer during transplantation.

1/3 the pot is filled with drainage (expanded clay). Suitable potting soil You can cook it yourself by taking turf soil, compost soil, peat and coarse sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1. If necessary, you can cut or break the pot, observing safety measures. The pot is placed in a wet gravel pan to prevent the soil from drying out.

If you find rotten spots on the roots of a flower, immediately remove them with a disinfected knife and treat with crushed charcoal or activated carbon. You should carefully remove the roots that have sprouted into the holes, since the fatsia painfully reacts to their damage - the leaves can lose turgor.

Falling asleep the plant during transplantation, the root collar is left not sprinkled. The soil is slightly compacted. Water the first time abundantly, then within a week as the top layer dries.

Video: Fatsia transplant

Flowering, pruning fatsia

Indoor aralia blooms on rare occasions. Flowering lasts throughout June-August. Flowers - openwork umbrellas are collected in paniculate inflorescences and do not differ decorative view, but they attract with their delicate aroma. In autumn, the plant is covered with small dark blue berries.

Caution: Fatsia berries are poisonous!

Fatsia pruning is usually done once after transplanting to form the crown of young plants. Only young plants are cut in the first 3 years of life. In older specimens, any cropping worsens appearance and makes the plant less showy. It is more demanding in terms of pruning the Fatsheder, which is cut 4–5 times a year. In addition, pinching (pinching the top) is done to determine the shape of the plant. This procedure should be taken with care: touching the leaves of a flower can cause an allergic reaction.

Fatsia in most cases does not need support. It happens when sluggish leaves are laid out on spacer sticks so that they become elastic again. The walls of the house can serve as a support for the plant.

Most often, the support is selected for the Fatshedera, since this plant has a long, thin trunk. It is supported by pillars, gratings, arches, showcases.

Table: Correcting Fatsia Care Errors

Fatsia pests and diseases

Table: Insecticides for Fatsia Pest Control

The water for the solution is taken warm (25 ° C).

Attention! When working with insecticides, do not forget to take safety measures: spray in a non-residential area, check the sprayer nozzles well to prevent leaks, wear gloves and safety glasses.

It is much worse if fungal and viral infections are the cause of the poor condition of the room aralia. They often cause the death of the plant.

Table: diseases of fatsia

Reproduction of fatsia

Growing fatsia from seeds is a less costly and time consuming method. Seeds in most cases are purchased purchased, since it blooms and bears fruit only in a greenhouse. If you have purchased seeds, try to sow without delaying for the next year, as they quickly lose their germination. The best time for sowing - spring, when you can do without highlighting the sprouts. Breeding fatsia consists of the following steps:

1. The seeds are soaked in water at room temperature for two days. If you have an aquarium compressor, you can put it there to oxygenate the water. In this case, 10–12 hours of soaking is sufficient.
2. The substrate is prepared light and loose - peat and perlite in a 1: 1 ratio. If you take sand, sterilize it in a "water bath" or bake it in the oven. In order to prevent decay of seedlings, it is necessary to take a pot with holes. For the same purpose, drainage is laid on the bottom.
3. Seeds are evenly spread over the soil by 0.5 cm and sprinkled with a thin layer of sand. The containers are covered with glass or foil so that moisture does not evaporate and are placed in dark place for germination. The seeds grow at a temperature of 13-15 ° C.
4. In about a month, seedlings will appear, and the containers with the seedlings are transferred to a warmer 15-18 ° C and lighted place, where direct sunlight does not penetrate.
5. Seedlings are picked when the third true leaf appears. The temperature drops to 10-15 ° C. Six months later, when the small plants get stronger, they, together with a lump of earth, are transplanted into pots 8-11 cm high with a nutritious substrate.

There is also a vegetative way of reproduction of an oriental beauty - with apical or stem cuttings and air layers:

1. Cuttings are cut into a length of 10-15 cm with a sterile instrument (knife or pruning shears).
2. Sections are powdered with sulfur or activated carbon.
3. They are planted in wet sand, pre-soaked for 3 hours in a solution of a root formation stimulator (Charkor, Heteroauxin).
4. The containers are covered plastic wrap to create a greenhouse effect. The cuttings germinate at a temperature of 25 ° C and diffused light.
5. After a month, the cuttings have roots, which are planted in the ready-made soil mixture. Expanded clay is also placed in pots.

Video: breeding fatsia

If the plant takes on an unsightly appearance (the trunk is bare, the leaves dry up and wrinkle), it should be given a second life by propagating it with an air layer. This requires:

1. In early spring, make a small incision in the trunk.
2. A match can be inserted into the cut point so that the cut parts do not close together.
3. The incision is dusted with Kornevin, and wet moss is placed on the trunk and wrapped in foil.
4. After the formation of roots, the shoot is cut 3 cm below the root system and transplanted into a nutrient soil.
5. You can water the lower part and wait for new shoots, or you can experiment and try to graft ivy onto the trunk.