Bark vaccination. Grafting of fruit crops by way of the bark

Landscaping and planning 29.08.2019

Landscaping and planning

Eye grafting (budding)

Cuttings are cut in March or April and grafted immediately. In some cases, cuttings are harvested in the fall, storing them in a cellar in the sand.

; it is simple in technique. But the split made over the entire thickness of the stump branch causes too serious damage, which is very difficult and slowly overgrows. Often, splitting leads to decay of wood and the formation of a hollow. An improved grafting method has entered gardening practice - half-split.

Regrafting can be done on any trees, both young and old. By regrafting, they simultaneously rejuvenate the tree, replacing the old skeletal branches with cuttings from which young branches grow. You can regraft trees in the garden in various ways.

Fig. 14 6. Grafting for the bark: a - with a cut in the bark; b - without a cut in the cortex; in - with a saddle

Grafting apple trees split

Grafting with cuttings

Grafting apple trees photo

In the lower part of the cutting (scion) make an oblique cut with a length of at least 3-4 cm with a flat plane. The cutting plane must be straight and without bends. With opposite side cut on the handle should be a kidney. The second cut is made from above the third kidney.

Reproduction and preservation of a rich assortment cultivated plants possible only by grafting When propagated by seeds, all fruit and berry plants give heterogeneous offspring, and the properties of hybrid seedlings deteriorate significantly compared to their parents. Therefore, it is impossible to get exactly Antonovka from the seeds of the Antonovka apple tree. The offspring of Antonovka, grown from seeds, will be the most diverse in terms of fruit quality and, as a rule, not similar to Antonovka. Therefore, reproduction and preservation of a rich assortment of cultivated plants is possible only by grafting.

Pro different compatibility You can read the breeds between the scion and the stock in the book mentioned above, and we will continue to consider the methods of grafting trees.

When grafting half-split, the branch or branch is first cut down, after which the end part of the branch foam is beveled, cutting it obliquely. After smoothing pruning with a knife on the horizontal part of the cut, the branches are split in such a way that it does not reach the opposite side of the branch stump. Half-split grafting cuttings are prepared as follows: two oblique cuts are made on the cutting (on opposite sides, slightly retreating from the lower kidney), giving it a flat-wedge shape. The wedge must be made in such a way that its outer part is wider than the inner edge of the graft cutting.

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Apply on stock and scion of different diameters. Two oblique cuts are made on the cuttings, and the resulting wedge is inserted into the slot on one or both sides of the split (Fig. 14e). Split grafting is also used in the garden when regrafting trees from early spring (before the start of sap flow) until the end of flowering. fruit plants. Grafting is performed on thick skeletal and semi-skeletal branches, as well as on trunks. The trunk or branch is sawn off at the grafting site at a right angle and grafted into the butt. To do this, the branch is pierced with an ax, a garden knife or a special-shaped grafting chisel. The branch is split longitudinally along the diameter or chord, and 2 cuttings with wedge-shaped cuts are inserted at the ends of the split so that the cambial layers along the outer side of the cutting coincide well. To facilitate work on thick branches, the gap is wedged, the wedge is removed after inserting the cuttings. For better overgrowing of the end cut, 1 cutting should be grafted for every 4-6 cm of the circumference of the trunk or branch. The main branch is further formed from the strongest and best located graft. The growth of the remaining vaccinations is limited to pinching or pruning, they are temporarily stored until the wound heals.

They are used for regrafting and treating trees, when growing seedlings by winter grafting, with inserts of dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks, in the second field of the nursery (on rootstocks with non-grafted budding), to create gardens on stable stem and skeleton formers, etc.

Grafting apple trees

On the branch to be grafted (stock) at the saw cut, the bark is cut to a length of 3-4 cm, it is slightly separated from the wood with a knife bone and the cutting is quickly inserted so that its oblique cut completely enters the cut of the branch bark.

Bridge grafting

Vaccination methods are different. The most widely used in practice was grafting with an eye - budding in the nursery. This is - reliable way propagation of valuable varieties. Grafting a valuable variety onto a dwarf rootstock can reduce the growth of a fruit tree. Dwarf trees are convenient for picking, processing and caring for fruits. They enter the fruiting season earlier.

At first glance, it seems that wherever I want, I graft the cutting to the tree there. And if your goal is just to graft one branch to a tree, then you can really graft wherever you want. But if you want the branch of the scion to replace either the whole tree or some part of it in the future, then it is important to understand that the development of the scion requires food received from the tree and light. And if natural branches interfere with or compete with the scion in this, then the scion will remain an insignificant branch that does not really yield a crop.

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Grafting an apple tree by the bark ~ Fruit trees

The junctions of cuts of rootstocks and scions for all methods of grafting with a cutting are tied with a synthetic film or bast, and the upper cuts of the cuttings and all open cuts are covered with garden pitch. The fusion of grafting components lasts from 30 to 50 days or more, depending on external conditions and type of plant. Optimum temperature accretion for an apple tree - from 12 ° C to 20 ° C, the relative humidity of the air at the place of grafting is 100%. By the time of grafting, the cuttings should be at rest. They are harvested at the beginning of winter before the onset of severe frosts. For cuttings, growth increments 39-40 cm long are cut off from the periphery of the crown. They are stored in a cold basement in sand at a temperature of 02 ° C or in snow. For vaccination, cuttings with 2-3 buds are taken. You can start in early spring after the end of frost; and finish during the flowering of plants. The most favorable time is the period of active sap flow (swelling of the kidneys), when the average daily temperature is 79 ° C.

How to determine when to graft over the bark

The edges of the bark are pressed tightly and tightly tied with wrapping material (duct tape, grafting film).

bark grafting technology

Bridges grafted from cuttings in most cases quickly grow into the stem tissue or into the tissue of tree branches, take on the role of a water conductor and nutrients and thereby save the tree from death.

Preparing for revaccination

bark grafting technology

Therefore, two-layer plastic sheets of various thicknesses, and completely remove the upper barrel if you have five to eight summer tree. And if the tree is up to 5 years old, then generally cut it down at a level of 30 cm from the ground. In the future, it will be necessary to delete all the tops that appear.

For better fixation and strength, straight ledges called hangers are cut out in the upper part of the cutting intended for grafting. When placing the cutting in the split, it is necessary to ensure that its bark coincides with the bark of the stump, and with its shoulders it rests on the edges of the split. It is better to stuff clay into the splitting crack, and cover the top of the stump and cutting with garden pitch. A well-clamped stalk in a split can not be tied.

It is necessary to provide for

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Fig. 14d. Vaccination cleft

Grafted with a grafting, or copulation, knife, sharpened to a razor sharpness. The length of the oblique cut exceeds the diameter of the handle by 3-3.5 times, the cut surface must be even. There should be no gaps between the cut and the flat surface of the blade of the grafting knife.

For grafting, you need to take cuttings from the most productive plants. The stock at the grafting site and the scion are cleaned of dirt on the bark before work. Fingers are never taken on the cut surface, as this can lead to poor survival. Oxidation and drying of sections is prevented by fast and precise work.

How many cuttings to plant on a thick branch

Grafting for the bark can be done without a cut in the bark. The bark is carefully separated from the wood with a peg and the prepared cutting is inserted into the slot.

Do you want to learn how to plant fruit trees? Then start with the simplest vaccination -

Various methods of grafting are used when breeding and improving new varieties, but grafting is of the most important and necessary importance when improving the assortment in existing plantations, as well as in the treatment of trees, frost damaged and rodents. Grafting is useful in that any low-value variety can be re-grafted with a valuable variety, improving the assortment of the garden. In the gardens of amateur gardeners, sometimes there is not enough pollinator for the desired variety. This shortcoming can be easily corrected by grafting a pollinator variety into the crown of any tree.

On the stump, below the grafting site, there was an escape, which at first is needed to provide the grafted cutting with nutrition

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Grafting of apple trees | HitAgro.RU

Summer grafting of an apple tree When propagated by seeds, all fruit and berry plants produce heterogeneous offspring, and the properties of hybrid seedlings deteriorate significantly compared to their parents. Therefore, it is impossible to get exactly Antonovka from the seeds of the Antonovka apple tree. The offspring of Antonovka, grown from seeds, will be the most diverse in terms of fruit quality and, as a rule, not similar to Antonovka. Therefore, reproduction and preservation of a rich assortment of cultivated plants is possible only by grafting.

There are over 200 types of vaccinations. The best are those in which there are no stumps left on the branch. In this case, the graft serves as a continuation of the branch and practically does not differ in diameter.

At the end of the work, the grafting site on the strapping is covered with a thin layer of garden pitch. They also tie the end of the cut branch and the upper cut of the cutting.

Grafting an apple tree by the bark The ancient, simplest method of grafting cleft trees has its positive aspects: you can graft them on old trees, broken large branches, without waiting for sap flow; it is simple in technique. But the split made over the entire thickness of the stump branch causes too serious damage, which is very difficult and slowly overgrows. Often, splitting leads to decay of wood and the formation of a hollow. An improved grafting method has entered gardening practice - half-split.

For the grafting operation itself, we will need black vinyl electrical tape or any other electrical tape, a small and very sharp knife, garden pitch.

. Sawed (torn) stumps are smoothed before grafting by cutting with a sharp knife so that they swim faster. Grafting (insertion) of the cutting should be carried out during the period of sap flow that has begun, approximately in the last days of May. The stalk for insertion behind the bark is prepared as follows: with a sharp copulation knife, an oblique cut is made from the side opposite the lower kidney, and at the top, strictly above the third (upper) kidney, it is cut off. An oblique cut can be made with a straight or saddle ledge.

Grafting with a cutting

can be carried out during the period of sap flow into the branch without its removal (Fig. 14d). -This method is recommended for beginner gardeners without proper grafting experience. On the branch, a place is chosen that is even and suitable for bending and a cut is made, cutting off the bark and part of the wood. Prepare the cutting. They try on a stalk, which should partially fit in the place of the cutout. If necessary, the cutout is enlarged, after which a longitudinal cut of the bark is made with a knife to the place of the cutout and a cutting is inserted under the bark so that it rests against the edge of the cutout with a shoulder. The bark can cover the stalk only on one side, and on the other hand, touch the exposed cambial tissues of the branch, which were not damaged. In this case, the stalk is cut off a little on one side so that the cambial tissues of the stalk and branches coincide over a larger area. Copulation of apple trees,

Budding of apple trees, or grafting with a shield,

One cutting is grafted onto a branch with a diameter of 2-3 cm, two 5-7 cm, three 8-10 cm.

. This operation is performed during sap flow - around May and is used for re-vaccination of adults fruit trees. Bark grafting is suitable for regrafting thick branches.

Copulation of apple trees

When should trees be grafted? It is advisable to do this when the buds open on the rootstock (+/- 2 weeks), before the leaves appear. The stalk of the scion itself should still be in the dormant phase when it is grafted, so that it does not bloom ahead of time and does not dry out the scion.

Grafting apple trees in the butt

For spring grafting with a bridge, annual shoots are used, which are harvested in autumn or early spring, but before the buds swell. The cuttings are made so that their length exceeds the length of the damaged areas of the bark by 5-6 centimeters. At the ends of the cuttings with a copulation knife, beveled cuts are made on one side in the same way as with the “over the bark” grafting method. Before inserting the bridges, the edges of the wound are cleaned, longitudinal incisions are made above and below it. The length of the incisions in the bark should be significantly less than the length of the beveled sections on the grafting cutting. The ends of the prepared cutting are inserted into these cuts under the bark in such a way that its lower part (in the course of growth) falls to the bottom of the wound, and the upper part to the top. Oblique cuts of the cutting should be directed to the wood of the trunk.

Bridge grafting

cleft graft

maybe simple and improved (with a tongue on an oblique cut) (Fig. 13). Improved copulation is used with the same thickness of the scion and rootstock (a difference in diameter of no more than 25% is acceptable). The cuts on the rootstock and scion should match as much as possible, which is associated with a better alignment of the cambial layers and their faster fusion. If the cutting is thinner than the rootstock, when connecting them, it is necessary to combine the cambium well along one side. To make a tongue, an additional incision is made on the middle third of the oblique cut. The tongue contributes to a good fixation of the cutting and increases the fusion surface. With simple and improved copulation, inoculations are similar without tongue and butt with tongue, used on large-diameter rootstocks. - the main method of propagating fruit plants. It is simple in execution, highly productive, provides a strong fusion of the scion with the stock and a high multiplication factor. Shield - part of the stem, cut from the shoot in the node zone, 25-30 mm long and 4-6 mm wide. It consists of a kidney, part of the petiole, a strip of bark and cambium, and a thin layer of wood (sometimes without wood).

After 2-3 years, only one cutting is left on the branch, while the others are cut out so that there is no thickening.

The sap flow time is determined by the difficulty of separating the bark from the wood. The bark is cut on the branch and they try to carefully separate it from the wood. If the bark turns away easily, then you can start grafting on the bark.

On the stock, as already mentioned, we remove everything that is possible, leaving a 30-centimeter stump on the trunk or branch. Next, we process the cut with a knife so that it is even. We decide on the place of vaccination, we can mark these places with a pencil. We cut off part of the bark, as shown in the figure, then in the middle we make an incision in the bark to the very wood 3 cm down.

Grafting apple trees for bark

In the place where the prepared cutting should be inserted, the bark is cut lengthwise and the bone of the grafting knife is separated from the wood. The length of the cut of the hemp bark should be equal to or slightly less than the length of the oblique cut of the cutting. An incision for inserting the cutting must be made in the upper part of the stump, since the branches in the crown of the tree are not located vertically, but obliquely. It is possible to graft 2-3 cuttings in one stump, since in the process of growth the grafts break off in the wind. The methods of grafting are different. The most widely used in practice was grafting with an eye - budding in the nursery. This is a reliable way to propagate valuable varieties. Grafting a valuable variety onto a dwarf rootstock can reduce the growth of a fruit tree. Dwarf trees are convenient for picking, processing and caring for fruits. They enter the fruiting season earlier.

If the vaccine has taken root, the continuation of the old branch is cut off next spring. In case of failure, the vaccination is repeated a little lower or higher than the first.

Fig. 13. Copulation (A) and improved copulation (B): a - sections of scion and rootstock; b - combination of components; in - strapping

The best term for budding for the bark is the period of maximum cambium activity, when the bark easily separates from the rootstock (the phase of summer sap flow). Butt budding can be carried out in the absence of sap flow. When budding, the shield with the kidney is cut off from the one-year-old shoot of the cultivated variety and inserted under the bark of the stock or placed in the butt on the cut. It is also possible to bud the shield without wood.

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Berso and the process of its creation

After a month, the strapping must be loosened (re-tied), otherwise it will cut into the bark of the cutting and pull it over, and this is dangerous.

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In order for the vaccination to succeed, you need not only to know when to vaccinate, but also to understand the main stages of vaccination. First you need to do the preparation.

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The best ways summer vaccinations fruit trees

The most common and practically acceptable methods of grafting are: grafting with cuttings over the bark with a cut in the bark; grafting the cutting in half split; bridge vaccination.

Next, we perform operations with the handle. We make an oblique cut on the handle with a sharp knife and stick it into the rootstock with the cut inward so that it completely enters the bark. Perhaps, for a better insertion, it will be necessary to slightly separate the bark on the rootstock at the grafting site with a blade. This whole operation should take you no more than 2 minutes, and the cut itself on the handle should not be in the air for more than 20 seconds. So practice.

It is very important that the handle is somewhat longer and, after being inserted into the cuts, is a little springy. The inserted cuttings must be tightly tied at the top and bottom with twine or sticky PVC tape, you can nail them with thin carnations and cover them with soft garden putty. It is advisable to tie all vaccination sites plastic wrap or burlap with white paper to retain moisture and prevent buds from sprouting on inserted bridges. During the summer, it is necessary to view the vaccinations and loosen the ties.

Eye grafting (budding)

But finally, for life, you need to leave only one well-established cutting, the future branch. Having unfolded the bark with a bone, the cutting is inserted so that with an oblique cut it faces the wood of the stock, and the ledge (shoulder or saddle) rests firmly on the end of the stump.

Various methods of grafting are used when breeding and improving new varieties, but grafting is most important and necessary when improving the assortment in existing plantations, as well as when treating trees damaged by frost and rodents. Vaccination is useful because Vaccination for the bark Vaccinations in the butt

For budding of an apple tree, buds from the middle part of the cutting are used; this ensures good survival of the eyes and strong shoot growth. Fat shoots are not used for harvesting cuttings. Cuttings are harvested on the day of budding from 4 to 10 am. The tops of the shoots are removed, the leaves are cut off, leaving petioles up to 1 cm long, and the stipules are removed. If necessary, the cuttings are stored in a refrigerator at a temperature of 13 ° C or in a basement in wet sand, moss, sawdust. The shelf life of cuttings should not exceed 10 days.

From the two upper buds of the grafted cuttings, young shoots begin to grow. If the upper shoot grows and develops stronger, then the top is pinched at the bottom, and at the end of July it is cut out to the base. If the lower shoot grows stronger, the upper one is removed.

First of all, a stock is prepared - a branch on which the cuttings will be grafted. The branch to be re-grafted is cut down. The cut is made with a sharp garden saw. If the branch is large and located horizontally, to prevent breaking off, it is first filed from below, and then the whole is cut out.

When you have done this operation with all the cuttings, it is necessary to tightly wrap the trunk around the grafting sites with electrical tape. Now treat all the outer cuts with garden pitch. You can also process the surface of the bark around the grafts. In most cases, bridges grafted from cuttings quickly grow into the stem tissue or into the tissue of tree branches, take on the role of a conductor of water and nutrients, and thereby save the tree from death.

In order for the stalk to fit snugly with an oblique cut to the wood of the stump and not fall out from under the bark, the vaccinations must be tied with large twine or strong bast and the area of the stump should be covered with soft garden putty.

Any low-value variety can be re-grafted with a valuable variety, improving the assortment of the garden

Apply during the period of sap flow, when branches of medium and large diameters are grafted. At the same time, the selected branch is carefully cut down in the place where the vaccination is planned, trying not to damage the bark. The cut is made somewhat beveled so that water does not linger at the end of the branch. The end of the branch is smoothly cleaned with a sharp garden knife. Instilled in more high part. With one incision in the rootstock bark, the cutting can be inserted under one or under two sides (Fig. 146). In the first case, the side of the cutting is slightly trimmed so that its cambial layers and wood can, on one side, come into contact with the untouched rootstock bark. Under the bark on the other hand, a cutting is introduced.

Apply if the stock is 1.5-3 times thicker than the grafted cutting (Fig. 14a). Unlike grafting with a shield, butt grafting is simpler, the survival rate of the eyes is higher, their swimming is practically not observed. On the stock, a longitudinal section of the bark is made, the width and length of which is equal to the width and length of the shield. In order for the shield to be held on the rootstock, a cut of the bark is made with the shoulder left. The requirements for grafting into the butt are the same as for grafting with a shield: good combination of tissues, snug fit of cuts, reliable binding. With a shield and butt, you can graft not only buds, but also branches.

Grafting fruit trees split

A cut shield with a kidney is taken with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand by the petiole and sides of the shield, transverse and longitudinal cuts of the bark are made on the branch in the form of the letter T and, without removing it, the knife is turned left and right. Then, a shield is inserted into the hole formed, moving it down under the bark until it all fits in the section of the rootstock bark. After inserting the shield, the place of budding is tied with a polymer tape from top to bottom, tightening the loop at the end (Fig. 12). The kidney is left free, since it often dies with continuous tying. The best survival rate of the eyes is obtained when budding shoots that have grown in the current or previous year, the survival rate decreases on older ones. When budding, after 1-2 weeks, the bandage is loosened so that it does not cut into the cortex very much. During summer budding, the eye sprouts next spring and shoots; as a result, an annual seedling is formed. If the direction of growth of the main shoot is wrong, it is tied to the bar. If several cuttings were grafted onto the branch, then only one is left to grow, which develops better than the others, and the tops of the remaining shoots are pinched when they reach 15-18 cm. In the spring of the next year, they are completely cut out. The left shoot is cut to 1/3 of the length and a new branch is formed from it.Then the cut is cleaned with a sharp garden knife. Then the scion is prepared. The cuttings should be wiped without damaging the kidneys. Most often, a part of the middle section of the shoot is cut out on the stalk, because. the kidneys in the upper part are close to each other, and in the lower part they are poorly developed and unsuitable for vaccination.

To prevent the death of a tree eaten by mice, damaged sunburn or stripped by tooling, bridge grafting is recommended. If the bark is only partially damaged, on one side of the trunk and branch, then one bridge (stalk) is usually inserted. In case of extensive damage, when the bark is destroyed on the trunk or branch all around, so many bridges are placed so that the distance from one to the other does not exceed 3 cm. The fused bridges connect the divided sections of the bark of the trunk or branches and provide nourishment and water supply to the areas of the tree located above the damage site.

Trees on which it is planned to graft the cuttings to the bark with a cut in the bark are rejuvenated in early spring so that the remaining cuttings on the cut (at the end) are from 7 to 10 centimeters thick. Larger branches should not be sawn off, as the bark in their thick part is too rough and not suitable for grafting. Sawing off weak branches for grafting is also not recommended. A cutting grafted into a thin upper part bitch, because of the unstable situation will develop very poorly. The main disadvantage of grafting on thin branches is that most of the crown of the tree remains ungrafted.

In the summer, at the beginning of July, we cut the electrical tape, but so far we have not removed it, and we are updating the winding around the vaccination itself. This will allow the tissues to thicken. In the first year, the probability of breaking off the grafted cutting is very high, so we carefully monitor the tree, but it is better to fence it off from cats and dogs with something.

Interesting tree grafting ideas (video)

Bridge grafting

Are you interested in growing several varieties of apples, pears, mulberries on one tree at once? Do you want to rejuvenate your garden and grow new varieties on old trees? If so, then you should learn how to graft fruit trees. In general, there are a lot of ways to graft one tree to another. Therefore, some do not engage in grafting trees, because they think that this is a very difficult task and an ordinary summer resident is not up to the task. But if you are not afraid to experiment, you can quickly fill your hand, and then the grafting of fruit trees for you will occur without problems.

The ancient, simplest method of grafting cleft trees has its positive aspects:

. In the gardens of amateur gardeners, sometimes there is not enough pollinator for the desired variety. This shortcoming can be easily corrected by grafting a pollinator variety into the crown of any tree.

In the second case, the cutting is introduced so that the bark on both sides moves away and covers it. The stalk is pushed in until its cut completely enters under the rootstock bark. Sometimes a ledge (shoulder) is made in the upper part of the cut, then it serves as a movement limiter.

Grafting into the butt with a tongue is used if the grafted branch is thicker than the cutting. Preparation of the cutting is the same as for copulation. On a branch, a cut is made from the side. The width of the cut should be equal to the thickness of the handle.

The first revision for the survival of grafted kidneys is carried out 2-3 weeks after budding. In accustomed scutes, the bud and bark are of a normal color, not wrinkled, and the petiole of the leaf falls off with a light touch of the finger. The grafted eye is considered dead if it dries up and the petiole does not separate. In the latter case, the reverse side of the rootstock is re-budded.

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Simple ways to graft fruit trees in the spring according to N. Kurdyumov and A. Tumanov

A sharp grafting knife with a bone is being prepared for work.

Grafting trees: the choice of scion and rootstock

Vaccination with a bridge should be performed in the spring, when the sap flow is especially active, but it can also be done in the summer, during the second sap flow.

It is necessary to provide that on the stump, below the grafting site, there is an escape, which at first is needed to provide the grafted cutting with nutrition. Sawed (torn) stumps are smoothed before grafting by cutting with a sharp knife so that they swim faster. Grafting (insertion) of the cutting should be carried out during the period of sap flow that has begun, approximately in the last days of May. The stalk for insertion behind the bark is prepared as follows: with a sharp copulation knife, an oblique cut is made from the side opposite the lower kidney, and at the top, strictly above the third (upper) kidney, it is cut off. An oblique cut can be made with a straight or saddle ledge.

This is how you can graft fruit trees and get several varieties from one tree.

Where to get vaccinated?

First, let's look at the method that is described in the book " smart garden in detail", and after that you can watch a video about grafting trees in the spring from the TV show "Bed", or vice versa: first watch the video, and then read the article.

You can graft them on old trees, broken large branches, without waiting for sap flow

How to graft? Tree grafting method.

Grafting fruit trees by budding

When grafting on the bark, you can make an incision in the bark on both sides in accordance with the diameter of the cutting. A cutting is inserted into the incision so that it fits snugly against the untouched rootstock bark.

Fig. 14a. Vaccination in the butt: a - scion and stock; b - strapping

Budding is best done in the morning and evening hours or in cloudy weather.

Bark grafting is easy to perform, and can be easily done by an inexperienced gardener. We hope your bark vaccinations will take root well, and the grafted apple tree will delight you with a new harvest.

Preparation of cuttings (scion)

For spring grafting with a bridge, annual shoots are used, which are harvested in autumn or early spring, but before the buds swell. The cuttings are made so that their length exceeds the length of the damaged areas of the bark by 5-6 centimeters. At the ends of the handle with a copulation knife, beveled cuts are made on one side in the same way as with the grafting method “by the bark”. Before inserting the bridges, the edges of the wound are cleaned, longitudinal incisions are made above and below it. The length of the incisions in the bark should be significantly less than the length of the beveled sections on the grafting cutting. The ends of the prepared cutting are inserted into these cuts under the bark in such a way that its lower part (in the course of growth) falls to the bottom of the wound, and the upper part to the top. Oblique cuts of the cutting should be directed to the wood of the trunk.

December 14, 2010

There are cases when regrafting of fruit trees is necessary: for example, if it has become unprofitable to grow trees of this variety due to the poor quality of the fruit.

Amateur gardeners often want more varieties, but the size of the plot does not allow this. In this case, you can create a tree - a garden by grafting a number of varieties into the crown. If you plant 1-2 trees, then 3-4 different varieties of apple or pear can be grafted into the crown of each. It should be taken into account that on one tree there should be varieties of the same ripening period: summer, autumn or winter.

Trees with a healthy, strong core, annual growth of branches in length of at least 25 ... 30 cm are suitable for regrafting. The optimal age of regrafted trees is 4 ... 10 years. Regrafting of apple and pear trees is best done in the spring during active spring sap flow, i.e. from April 10 until the beginning of flowering (for Moscow and the Moscow region).

Grafting into the crown is done at a height of 90 ... 120 cm from the ground. In the crown, well-developed branches are chosen, located at an angle of 45-60 0 from the trunk. The branches to be re-grafted are cut with a garden file or pruner at a distance of 30 ... 50 cm from the central axis. When pruning branches, they maintain subordination. The cut surface is smoothed with a garden knife. All other branches are cut into a ring.

Cuttings with 3-4 buds (a),
with 5-6 kidneys (c);
growth of branches from them (b, d)

Regrafting is usually done with segments of annual branches with three to four buds. So already in the second - third year you can get the first fruits. The scion is harvested from external well-lit branches (thickness 6-9 mm) of healthy mature trees. Never from fatty shoots - tops. Cuttings are harvested at the beginning of winter, before the onset of severe frosts. Or in early spring with a frosty winter - from March 10 to March 30. The cuttings are stored until grafting in a sufficiently damp and cool place buried in wet sand at a temperature of 0-3 0 C.

The basis of grafting is a properly prepared stalk. The shoot taken from the basement (prepared in advance) is cut into segments with three buds. Cuts are made smooth, even, without distortions and blockages. Above the upper kidney, a cut is made “on the kidney”. At the lower end of the cutting, a sharp grafting knife makes an even oblique cut, the length of which should be 3-5 times the diameter of the cutting, i.e. about 3-3.5 cm. Next, the cut is corrected in accordance with the grafting method.

After installing the handle, it is tied with a film or electrical tape, starting from the cut of the branch and winding the film in a spiral without kinks and twists. At the end, the tape is fixed by itself, and the film must be fixed with a knot around the branch. After tying the cutting, open wounds are carefully covered with garden pitch. After the operation, a paper bag is put on the grafted branch for 2-3 weeks to protect the cuttings from drying out. The strapping at the grafting site should be removed after 20-25 days so that it does not cut into the bark. The shoots of the old variety that appeared in the summer are removed. Next, the crown will need to be shaped so that it is not one-sided or thickened.

The following types of vaccinations are used:

Copulation. It is used if the thickness of the branch and the cutting are the same.

Copulation is simple (no tongue).

Due to the complexity and inconvenience, it is not very common.

Improved copulation (with tongue). Cuts on the rootstock and scion in length and width should match as much as possible. In the middle of the cuts of both components, a cut 1-1.5 cm deep is made. The scion with the stock is connected in places of the cuts so that the tongue of one is inserted into the cut of the other.

Vaccinations for example. Apply when the stock is 2-3 times thicker than the cutting. For this grafting, the stock is cut at an angle of 60-70 0 and on the high side of the stump, with a knife movement, a strip of bark with a small layer of wood is cut from the bottom up so that the cut width matches the cut of the cutting as much as possible. There are several variants of this vaccination.

Vaccination butt with tongue. In this case, tongues are made on the handle and rootstock, as with improved copulation, and on the rootstock it can be thick.

Vaccination in the butt with a ledge. When an oblique cut of the bark with wood is made on the rootstock, a transverse incision of the bark is made at the end to form a ledge. And at the cutting of the scion, the lower end of the cut is also slightly shortened. The handle is set so that it is fixed on the ledge.

Vaccination in butt with a saddle. On the rootstock make a regular cut. And on the scion, first a transverse incision is made at an angle of 60-70 0, then a long cut is carefully made at an angle of 25-30 0. This method requires skill, so you need to practice first. The maximum coincidence of slices is important, not only in length. But also in width.

Vaccination butt with saddle and ledge. This method implies the presence of a ledge on the rootstock, and a saddle on the scion and a small cut at the end. The method is complicated, but the contact area is the largest, which means that there is a high probability of high-quality fusion.

Bark vaccinations. The most simple and very effective. Apply when the thickness of the rootstock exceeds the thickness of the cutting by 5 times or more. The stock is cut into a stump with pruning shears or a garden file. The cut is cleaned with a garden knife. After grafting, the winding is performed from the end of the branch to the base. Otherwise, the grafted cutting can be accidentally “squeezed out”.

Grafting for the bark is simple. On the rootstock along the axis of the branch, a bark incision 2-4 cm long is made. One or both edges of the incision are separated from the wood and a cutting is inserted into the resulting space. Several cuttings can be placed on one branch, but not closer than 3 cm to each other.

Grafting for the bark with a saddle. The execution technique is similar to the previous method. But a saddle is made on the cutting of the scion, as for grafting into the butt with a saddle.

Grafting over the bark without an incision. To do this, a specially prepared wedge made of hardwood is used to separate the bark from the wood without a cut. And a cutting is inserted into the gap formed.

Vaccination cleft. It is used on thick rootstocks (trunk, large skeletal branches) with a branch diameter of 3 to 8 cm. The trunk or branches are cut into a stump and the ends are cleaned with a garden knife. With a special wedge or hatchet, the end of the branch is split to a depth of 5-10 cm. On the cuttings, two oblique long cuts are made from opposite sides. Insert into the slot so that the cambium layer of the cutting coincides with the cambium layer of the rootstock. It is not the bark on the outside that should match, but the cambium !!! On a thick branch, 2 or 3 cuttings can be grafted, but this is done to successfully heal the wound, and after 1-3 years only one most successful cutting is left. The rest are cut with secateurs.

Before, it seemed to me that grafting on a fruit tree is something from the category of higher mathematics, and not everyone can do it. But once seeing how they make a vaccination experienced gardeners, I realized that it is available to almost every fan.

I want to tell and show how I do it. One of the simplest and available ways- grafting for the bark. It is suitable for those trees in which the rootstock is much thicker than the grafted one. This vaccination is carried out in late April - early May, when active sap flow begins in the trees.

The branch chosen for grafting was cut down with a hacksaw.

In the grafting bridge, I make an incision and separate the edges of the cut bark from the wood.

I cut the lower end of the cutting under acute angle and I clean from the bark to the height of the cut.

I insert the cutting into the cut on the rootstock.

Depending on the diameter of the rootstock, one or more cuttings can be inserted.

I cover the cut with garden pitch.

I cover the top with cling film and wrap it with electrical tape.

After a while, the first leaves appear on the cuttings.

Cuttings give strong shoots that need to be pinched in the first year. Thus, I regrafted a pear, the variety of which was not entirely successful. And two years later, the updated tree gave excellent harvest.

Denis Petrushin, p. Shevyakino, Dnepropetrovsk region

Created: 12/11/2018 13:22

The most common ways of grafting with a cutting are in a side cut, in a split and behind the bark. The success of these methods of grafting largely depends on the cleanliness of the oblique cut of the cutting. Its length should exceed the diameter by 3-3.5 times. The cutting surface must be clean and even.

On the cutting on the opposite side of the cut, there should be a kidney that stimulates the survival of the cutting, and in case of breaking off, grafting on the bark helps to restore it as soon as possible. The cuttings are grafted on top of the branch, and if its diameter is more than 3 cm, also from the 1st or 2nd sides.

The stalk placed below the branch takes root worse, and in the future the graft may break off under its own weight.

The split grafting method is used mainly for regrafting branches, which are easily split with a grafting knife in the center of the cut. A stalk is inserted into the gap formed, with the lower part cut into a wedge 3-4 cm long. the bark and cambial layers of the inserted cutting and the grafted branch must coincide at least on the 1st side.

The method of grafting into a side cut with synchronous removal of a part of the branch above the grafting site is used for regrafting and grafting branches of any diameter. On the selected section of the branch, an oblique cut is made with a knife at an angle of 30 degrees to the axis of the branch, with a smooth penetration of the blade into the wood.

The fingers of the left hand, superimposed on the end of the blade, help to deepen it into the branch. The blade needs to cut through the bark and cut the wood a little. The branch is then cut off above the cut without retaining the stump.

The lower end of the handle is cut with two oblique cuts into an oblique wedge that looks like an isosceles triangle. Next, the cutting is inserted into the cut in such a way that the cambial layers and the bark of the cutting and the grafted branch coincide. Such vaccinations take root very well and there are usually no breaks.

The bark grafting method is suitable for grafting branches that are much thicker than the grafted cutting. On the side or top of the hemp in the direction from the cut to the base, the bark is cut to a length of about 3 cm. The incised edges of the bark are carefully pushed apart with the end of the knife.

From the bottom of the cutting under the kidney, an equal-sized oblique cut is made. To increase the area of contact between the cambial layers of the branch and the cutting, a narrow strip of bark is cut off from the side opposite to the oblique cut.

This is done in such a way that the kidney is below the end of the hemp, and an open cut of the cutting protrudes slightly above it.

This position of the handle provides better healing of the wound at the end of the stump, because. not only the cambium of the grafted branch is involved in the overgrowth of the wound, but also the callus formed on the cut of the cutting.

However, it should be remembered that inoculations with this method grow together very slowly and often break off in the first 2-3 years after the operation. In this regard, bark grafts are used only in combination with lateral incision grafts.

The junction of the branch with the handle is tightly tied with ribbons of strapping material, and open spaces cuts on the grafted branch and cuttings are covered with garden pitch. Its repeated application in years with hot springs increases the survival rate of the inoculation and speeds up the healing of wounds.

Vaccinations are carried out in dry weather. When grafting, a sharply sharpened knife is used, so the gardener must be extremely careful to avoid injury. All sections are made "on themselves".

Before starting grafting in the garden, it is advisable to practice getting good cuts and different ways grafting on trees with soft wood (poplar, willow, linden). This helps to avoid errors when grafting fruit trees.

Grafting of fruit trees with cuttings is possible both in spring and during summer sap flow (III decade of July - I decade of August). Spring vaccination begins with the establishment of positive night temperatures. Weak night frosts do not affect the survival rate of vaccinations. Stone fruit grafting must be completed before bud break on the grafted tree. A later vaccination is fraught with gum disease and weakening of growth.

In the southern regions of the Non-Chernozem zone, pears and apple trees can be grafted by cuttings in the summer - from the second decade of July to the second decade of August. Take cuttings with well-formed buds from the lower parts of 1-year-old shoots of the current season.

Leaves are removed from half of the cutting, grafted into the side cut, without removing the re-grafted branch above the cutting. The success of grafting at these times depends on the state of winter care of the grafted cuttings. It should take root well, but not start growing.

The shoots that appear on it do not ripen and freeze in winter. Pruning of re-grafted branches for grafting is carried out next spring after bud break.

Preparation of cuttings. In the survival rate of cuttings during grafting, much depends on the skill of the gardener and the cleanliness of the tool used. The budding and grafting knives, garden saw and pruner must be sharp, used only for their intended purpose and periodically wiped with a clean rag.

The section of the branch intended for grafting and escape before cutting it into cuttings must also be thoroughly wiped. It is impossible to take the cutting by the cutting plane categorically, because the dirt that got on them is one of the reasons for poor survival.

If the stalk, prepared for grafting, fell to the ground, then it should be wiped, and the sections should be renewed.

The bark of the cutting should be elastic and smooth, and the buds unblown. If the wood on the cut of the cutting is not light green, but brownish (a sign of freezing), it is unsuitable for grafting. Cuttings stored in the home refrigerator often dry out, and their bark is slightly wrinkled and loses its elasticity.

Such cuttings can be restored if they are dipped in water a day before the operation, and then wrapped in a wet cloth, film and placed in a cool place. After such a procedure, the bark of the cuttings restores its elasticity, and their survival rate is quite high.

The length of the cutting does not affect its survival, but it has a significant effect on the entry of the graft into fruiting. Strong shoots grow from a cutting with two or three buds, but they acquire fruit formations only in the 3rd-4th year.

It is better not to save stock material and increase the length of the cutting to six to eight buds. Shoots with different strength of growth will grow from them (strong from the upper 2-3 buds, weak from the lower buds, capable of laying a fruiting apical bud in the first year).

However, an excessive increase in the length of the cutting will significantly increase the “sail” of leafy grafting in summer, which can cause breakage in the first 2-3 months after grafting, because. the fusion of the grafting components is not yet strong enough. In this regard, grafting with long cuttings or even perennial branches is possible, but only on garden plots with reliable protection from the winds in the summer.

By grafting the bark, cuttings can be grafted onto thicker branches. For this, the stalk, which is in vegetative dormancy, is inserted under the bark of the stock with active sap flow. Therefore, the most favorable time for such a vaccination is the period from April to May, depending on the weather. With plants growing in greenhouses, bark grafting can usually be started much earlier. First, the branch to be grafted is sawn off close to the intended grafting site. To prevent the branch being cut off, before that, a small notch is cut out under the place of sawing off. Then the prepared branch is smoothly cleaned with a copulation or garden knife.

Now, an incision about 2-3 cm long is made along the branch in the rootstock bark, the edges of which are then lifted with the back of a knife or with a special blade to separate the bark. The grafted cutting receives a regular copulation cut. Opposite the center of the cut, on the other side of the cutting, there should be one kidney. The stalk cut in this way is inserted between the slightly open edges of the cut in the bark to the very end of the "pocket". If all operations are carried out correctly, then the stalk should be well wedged in this “pocket”.

The length of the copulation cut on the handle must be such that it sticks out above the graft in the form of a semicircle.

Then the vaccination area is tied with a washcloth, tightly, but not too much. The first rounds of wrapping should be partially crossed to ensure the strength of the binding. The bud of the cutting between the edges of the bark is left untied.

If thicker branches are re-grafted, then several cuttings can be grafted onto the bark at once. For this purpose, two or more incisions are made on the rootstock bark at an equal distance. Then the edges of the incision are slightly raised and the prepared cuttings with a copulation cut are inserted into the formed “pockets”. The cuttings should sit firmly and loosely, so it is important not to overdo it when separating the edges of the bark cut from the wood.

Then immediately all the cuttings are moderately tightly tied with a washcloth.

Grafting for the bark: a - cropped stock with an incision; b - rootstock, top view; in - cropped grafted stalk; g - a stalk inserted behind the bark; e - ready-made, tied graft.

Bark graft:

This is how cuttings are cut.
Then an incision is made on the rootstock.
With the back of a knife, the bark is carefully separated and lifted.
Prepared cutting with copulation cut.
The cutting is inserted under the bark.
A cutting correctly inserted into a rootstock branch.
On thick rootstocks, two cuttings can be grafted at once.
In conclusion, the vaccination site is tied with a washcloth and gently lubricated with garden pitch.

Experience shows that branches for grafting over a bark with a diameter of more than 3 cm can take 2 cuttings, and with a diameter of more than 5 cm - 3 cuttings. The top buds of the cuttings, which will act as continuation branches, should normally point outwards, unless special arrangements must be made. Additional requirements regarding the direction of growth of the cutting.

The grafting of several cuttings onto the thicker branches of the rootstock is more successful, as this is facilitated by the callus influx of a rather large surface of the wound from the cut.

Then the strongest shoot, formed after grafting on the bark, can be used to further form the crown of the tree, with all other cuttings being gradually shortened. Shortening should be divided into several stages within long period to favorably influence the formation of callus influxes.

As with the simple bark grafting method already described, an incision about 3 cm long is made on the rootstock. Then only one edge of the bark incision is separated. The grafted cutting receives the same copulation cut. Then one side of this cut is cut (approximately at right angles to the first cut). The width of the side on which this cut is made depends on the width of the recess into which the incision bark was separated. After inserting the cutting under the raised bark, its cut side should fit snugly against the unseparated part of the bark incision. Due to this, the same effect is achieved as with the above described method of grafting over the bark, only without separating the second side of the incision. Then the grafting area is tied with a washcloth, while it is important to tie in the required direction.

Improved bark grafting: a - cut and cut rootstock; b - rootstock, top view; c - cut cutting; d - inserted cutting, it is important to follow the direction of tying; e - finished inoculation, top view.

Bast fibers should press the inserted cutting towards the unopened part of the incision. With an appropriate thickness of the rootstock, it is also possible to graft several cuttings at the same time. Upon completion of the work, the grafting area and other cut wounds formed are smeared with wood putty.

With this method, thicker rootstocks and old fruit trees are re-grafted. The bark is vaccinated according to Tittel in the period from April to May, since the bark on the rootstock should already be separated.

The branch of the stock to be grafted is cut off and smoothed out. Then two parallel cuts are made on the bark along the branch, 3 to 6 cm long. The distance between them is equal to the width of the grafted cutting.

The thin strip of bark formed between the cuts is separated from the wood with the back of a knife or with a special blade for separating the bark, but it is not cut off completely.

Then, a copulation cut is made on the handle, slightly longer than the incised strip on the rootstock. As with other methods of grafting, and when grafting for the bark according to Tittel, one kidney should also be located opposite the middle of the cut on the handle. Now the cutting is inserted into the “pocket”, which was formed when the strip of bark was separated from the rootstock. After inserting the entire lower part of the cutting, the strip of bark is cut off.

At the end of the process, the grafting area is moderately tightly tied and carefully lubricated with wood putty.

The stock is cut and the cut is smoothed out
Two parallel incisions are made in the rootstock bark with a sharp knife.
A stalk with a copulation cut is inserted under a strip of bark between these cuts. Improved bark grafting according to Tittel
The stalk receives an additional cut at the bottom of the copulation cut

The bark grafting option according to Tittel provides a large area for fusion of cutting and rootstock tissues. Just as in the usual version, two parallel, less deep cuts are made on the rootstock, a strip of bark between which is separated from the wood, but not cut off. The width of the strip of bark corresponds to the width of the grafted cutting. A regular copulation cut is made on the handle, and an additional oblique cut is made at the lower end at a right angle to the longitudinal direction of the handle. As a result of these cuts, a small wedge is formed, which, after inserting the cutting under the raised strip of bark, forms a tight abutment below. A strip of bark is cut so that the remaining part covers the second cut of the cutting. Now the grafting area is tied with a washcloth and smeared with wood putty. The bud on the handle in the rootstock area should remain open, but the semicircular part of the cut on the scion, which sticks out above the edge of the stock, must be smeared with putty. The semi-circular cut on the side facing the rootstock being regrafted has an important function. Here, a lot of new callus tissue is formed especially intensively, due to which excellent bonding of the rootstock and scion is achieved.

Improved bark grafting according to Tittel: a - copulation cut on the handle; b - the second cut on the handle below, at an angle to the first cut; c — second section, front view; g - cutting inserted into the rootstock, the excess part of the strip of bark is cut off; e- tied and lubricated area of grafting.

When using this method, the stock is cut off during the period of active sap flow and an incision is made in the bark in the longitudinal direction - about 3 cm. Then, on one side of the incision, the bark is separated from the wood using the back of the knife. On a handle with 2-6 buds, a copulation section is carried out, and on the side in the center, one bud should remain next to the cut. Another cut is made opposite the kidney in such a way that the 2 cuts together form a blade, and strips of bark must be preserved on both the back and the front to the very bottom. Now this wedge is inserted under the raised part of the bark on the rootstock and, as with all the methods of bark grafting described above, a small part of the cut in the form of a semicircle should stick out above the end of the rootstock. In the same way, with this method, the graft is tied with a bast, strictly observing the direction of the winding, in order to promote successful fusion of the stock and scion.

A special elastic grafting tape with a width of 6-8 mm is very well suited for tying the graft. All sections are smeared with wood putty.

This method of bark grafting, when performed correctly, is one of the most reliable, since here, for fusion with the stock, the cuttings obtain significantly more cambial tissues than when using other methods.

When possible and with experience, it is recommended that the improved Wenck graft be preferred to other conventional grafts because of its very high yield.

Improved bark grafting according to Venck: a - cutting with the first copulation cut, front view; b — second copulation section, rear view; c - cropped stalk, side view; d - the stalk is inserted with one side under the raised bark of the rootstock, top view indicating the direction of the winding.