Summer grafting of grapes. Grafting grapes in autumn, spring and summer: timing and time

Grafting is one of the most effective ways of healing, rejuvenating and improving the properties of grapes. There are many ways to graft, but as for the timing, the most common in both amateur and professional viticulture are autumn vaccinations. We will tell you how grapes are grafted in autumn, what are the terms for grafting grapes at this time of the year, and we will also give a detailed description of this procedure.

Benefits of autumn grafting grapes

Why is it better to plant grapes in the fall? Firstly, because the grafted in the autumn begins to bear fruit earlier and gives more fruits. Secondly, as a result of autumn grafting, grapes become resistant to both drought and high humidity. An autumn graft will heal the plant and help heal damage caused by phylloxera.

Time and methods of autumn vaccination

Autumn grafting is performed when the grapes enter a dormant period, that is, from the beginning of October. The air temperature at this time should not be lower than 15 ºC, and the soil should not be lower than 10 ºC.

Autumn vaccination is usually carried out in the trunk of an old bush, the fruiting of which has begun to fade.

Preparation of scion grapes

Cut the graft cuttings with a sharp sterile instrument. The donor can be a healthy bush, the matured vine of which has a dry, hard, yellow-brown bark and has borne fruit at least once. The length of the shank with two or three eyes should be 55-60 cm, diameter - 10-12 cm, and the cut should be smooth and even. Tops of shoots are not suitable for grafting, as well as too thin or crooked shank. In order not to confuse the upper cut with the lower one during grafting, make the lower cut on the handle oblique, and the upper one even. Clean the cut cuttings from the whiskers and stepchildren, but try not to damage the kidneys.

In order for the cuttings to endure the winter well after grafting, they must be covered with a thin layer of paraffin, which will retain moisture in the tissues of the chubuk. Before waxing, the chibouks are immersed for a day in a solution of the growth stimulator Heteroauxin, after which they are dried: the paraffin will not stick to the wet bark.

Put a piece of paraffin into a pot of water and bring the water to a boil: the melted paraffin will float on the surface. Each stalk must be quickly lowered into a pot of paraffin, and then into a container of cold water to cool the paraffin.

Before grafting, you need to cut off the lower part of the cutting, which will be fused with the stock. The stalk is cut off with a sterile knife on both sides, wedge-shaped, stepping back from the lower kidney 1 cm. The length of the side of the wedge should be about 2 cm. Never touch the cutting area with your hands! Before grafting, the cut of the cuttings must be held for 7-10 seconds in a solution of 10 drops of Humate in 1 liter of water.

Rootstock preparation for grafting

When preparing an old bush for grafting, it is necessary to cut off its ground part at a height of 8-12 cm from the ground and free the underground stem of the stock from under the ground. Clean the rootstock (the root of the bush to which you will graft the chubuk) from bark, dust, dirt and wipe it with a solution of copper sulfate. The saw cut of the stock should be even, smooth and perpendicular to the growth of the trunk. After processing with copper sulphate, you cannot touch the cut with your hands - only with sterile instruments.

Grafting a cutting to a trunk

For the vaccination procedure you will need:

• secateurs;
• axe;
• screwdriver;
• bandage (strips cut from cotton fabric);
• leg-split;
• copper sulfate solution.

The knife, pruner and ax must be well sharpened and disinfected with alcohol. You also need to wipe the screwdriver with alcohol.

In the middle of the cut of the stock with an ax, knife or secateurs, a split is made of such a depth that the wedge-shaped cut of the graft chubuk is completely included in it. A screwdriver is inserted into the split so that the split halves do not converge. The chubuk is inserted into the split in such a way that the lower kidney remains above the cut, after which the screwdriver can be removed. The cambial layers of the rootstock and scion must match. If the rootstock is thick, two cuttings can be inserted into it. All the cracks formed in the rootstock must be filled with toilet paper soaked in water, after which the stock with the scion is pulled together with a bandage or strips of cloth. The “bandaged” vaccination site is fixed with twine.

Instead of toilet paper, you can fill all the cracks in the rootstock with liquid clay and smear the surface of the cut with it, and then pull off the grafting site with a cloth. As soon as the clay dries, the soil around the bush is loosened and watered, then earth is poured into the bush so that the edges of the graft cuttings remain above the surface. Above the vaccination site, a hut made of non-woven covering material or an inverted five-liter plastic bottle with a cut neck is installed.

In the spring, the shelter is not removed immediately: in warm weather, the bottle is lifted for a while, and then again set above the vaccination site. When the grapes get used to the environmental conditions, the coating is removed completely.

Read also

Grafting is an asexual technique of propagating or replacing the shoots of one grape variety to the root system of another variety. It helps a lot if you decide to replace a boring variety with a newer one or there is a need to update an old bush.

This procedure allows you to save time by at least 2-3 years, since the shoots need only one year to grow, and the fruiting of the scion begins the next year. Grafting is also indispensable if you want to propagate grapes on a phylloxera-resistant or frost-resistant rootstock.

Why grafting grapes is needed - benefits

Grafting of grapes is needed in order to speed up the fruiting period by two or even three times than if we planted new seedlings. To those advantages that were written about above, we can safely add that vaccination helps to significantly save space on the site. So on one rootstock you can grow several varieties of grapes at once. These varieties may have different ripening dates and even differ in the color of the berries.

New plants obtained in this way are more resistant to adverse conditions than parent specimens. The oppression of one variety by another on the same bush has not yet been observed. You need to graft grapes if:

• The newly selected variety is not resistant to phylloxera, unlike the rootstock (the root system to which the graft is grafted);
• The root system of the stock is more frost-resistant than the variety you are grafting;
• There is very little space on your site, but you want to diversify the assortment of grapes by growing 2 or 3 varieties on one bush at once;
• Do you want to preserve the best hereditary qualities of the scion and stock;
• Do you want to improve the taste of berries, while getting the harvest in the shortest possible time;
• Increase the resistance of grapes to diseases.

Types of grape grafting

Vaccination of grapes is divided into three types according to the timing: spring, summer and autumn.

Spring vaccination is done by underground methods:

• in a split
• butt,
• butt (wedge),
• to a separate root
• copying method,
• during root transplant.

Summer vaccination is done by combined methods:

• A woody cutting on a green shoot in a split,
• layering on seedlings,
• By simple copying method,
• Green to green.

Autumn vaccination is done by budding with a shield and an eye in the butt.

Grafting dates for grapes - when to plant in the spring

The timing of grafting grapes in the spring falls approximately at the end of April or May - it is at this time that the growth of the vine accelerates. The main thing is that the buds on the rootstock are already swollen or blossomed, but active sap flow has not yet begun, which causes the weeping of grapes, or wait until this movement of juice passes. On the scion, the eyes should be at rest.

Daytime air temperature should already be stable and not fall below +15 degrees. The temperature of the soil at the root system should warm up to +10 degrees. The weather should be warm and calm, and the procedure is best done in the morning or evening. If the weather is cloudy, then grapes can be grafted during the day.

The main rules for grafting grapes

Grafting grapes is a rather time-consuming process. The best candidate for a rootstock will be already existing bushes, if their variety is not suitable for the site, did not live up to your expectations, and you simply did not like it. The main rule - the scion (grafted vine) and rootstock - must be healthy, free of diseases and insects, and relatively young.

Preparing grapes for grafting

In order for the grape grafting procedure to be successful, both the scion and the stock must be properly prepared. For clarity, I will explain that the scion is the cuttings that are planned to be grafted, and the stock is the lower part of the bush with the root system.

Rootstock preparation

The bush that will serve as a stock is cut down at rest - in early spring or late autumn. The cut is made below the soil level by 5 cm, and then treated with resin, covered with straw and film so that the soil warms up faster and new shoots grow faster. The bush will be ready for grafting when the shoots are strong and their length is 25 cm.

Preparation of scion (cuttings)

Scion cutting is taken for most types of grafting at rest, but sometimes actively growing can be used. Three days before grafting, the cuttings must be soaked in a growth stimulator ( fumar, humate, heteroauxin) during the day. If you do not have a growth stimulator, then it can be replaced with such a solution - 1 tablespoon of honey per 10 liters of water. During this day, moisture should appear on the cut of the cutting, if this did not happen, we continue to soak.

If, even after repeated soaking, the cut remains dry and moisture has not appeared, this material is not suitable for us, it must be thrown away and replaced with a new one. Then, after soaking, we wrap the stalk in wet burlap and in this form we carry it to the bush. You can cut the cuttings to the desired length no earlier than 30 minutes before grafting, otherwise nutrients will be lost.

If you plan to graft your grapes in the fall, paraffin your cuttings first. To do this, melt the paraffin: pour water into the container, put the paraffin and put on fire. As soon as the paraffin melts, remove the container from the fire. Dip the cuttings in this water with paraffin (under the lower kidney) and immediately dip in cold clean water, let them dry.

Attention: before waxing, make sure that the grafts are dry - this way the paraffin will better adhere and cover the cuttings with a thin layer.

Methods for grafting grapes into an underground trunk (at the root)

From the chapter “Types of grape grafting”, you already understood that there are many ways - aboveground, underground (at the root), and the methods for carrying out the procedure are very diverse.

Cleavage grafting

The grafting of grapes is done in an underground perennial stem, all branches are cut off from the bush with secateurs. Next, we dig a hole under the bush to a depth of 30 cm. At a distance of 20 cm from the surface, we cut down the upper part of the bush. We clean the sawn-off surface of the stock with a sharp knife from notches and irregularities. It is better to remove the old bark with the blunt side of the knife, then wipe it with a clean, damp cloth (you can soak it in a weak solution of potassium permanganate).

Next, we take a sharp clean knife or ax treated with manganese, and with the help of a hammer or chisel we make a split of about 3 cm in the trunk. The split is done in the center in the direction of the larger diameter of the stump. To prevent it from closing while we prepare the cuttings, insert a large screwdriver (also clean and disinfected) into it.

Depending on the diameter of the rootstock, you can graft 1, 2 or even 4 (peripheral grafting) cuttings in one stump. We leave 1-2 buds on the scion, cut off the excess part up to 4 cm under the lowest eye. We make even cuts on both sides with a sharp knife, leaving about 0.5 mm under the kidney (see as in the photo), while the eye itself should be with side.

Attention: try not to touch the slice with your fingers!

Dip the cut part of the scion in a weak solution of humate for 5-8 seconds and immediately insert it into the split 0.5 cm from the thick cambial layer (bark). Gently “drown” the grape stem deeper into the rootstock for maximum contact between the split and the cut. Do the same operation with the second scion. Insert the cuttings so that the lower eyes "look" outward. If they cross at the top - there is nothing to worry about, do not try to align them.

Now you can pull out the screwdriver, and lay the splitting point on the stem of grapes with wet toilet paper to close the gap from dirt and germs. Wrap the grafting site with twine, cotton cloth or braid. Do not use tape or tape. For better preservation of moisture and temperature, close up the grafting site with liquid clay, especially if you carry out the procedure in the fall.

Cut off the bottom of a 5 liter plastic bottle, place it on the bottom of the pit so that the stem and grape graft are in the center. Next, we fill the hole with earth mixed with sawdust, ash and humus. Fill well with water so that the plant does not dry out. The temperature can be adjusted by unscrewing and tightening the bottle cap.

Grafting grapes in a bole in spring - video

Grafting grapes in the trunk in the fall - video

The second video is a little longer, but here you will see the procedure for grafting, paraffin waxing, and some tips.

Grafting grapes in semi-split

Such a vaccination is done almost similarly to the first option in full splitting. But in this case, the split on the trunk is done from one side to the middle of the trunk - this is what gives the name to this procedure. All stages of rootstock preparation are similar, and the bark is removed from the inside of the cut for the scion. The lower eye on the handle should be located outside, and to the inside, which will be deepened into the semi-split, we make the cut thinner.

At the end of the process, when the graft and stock are connected, we “fill up” the gap on the trunk with wet toilet paper, wrap the grafted part with a cloth, pour it well with water (you can also cover it with clay from above) and cover it with earth. How it looks - look at the photo.

Peripheral inoculation

The peripheral method of grafting grapes is suitable for a perennial old bush with a thick trunk. It is performed in the same way as a full split, with the only difference that we make two splits on the rootstock, and use 4 scions - two per split on each side. The process is described above, but this is what it looks like - you can see in the photo below (increases when you click on it) - on the right No. 2.

It is possible to graft grapes on 4 cuttings in semi-splits, but the stem of the hemp must be thick, and the splits must be accurate. Without experience, I do not recommend this method to you. You can see this method in the figure above - on the left No. 1.

Vaccination with a wedge (in butt)

Grafts are grafted with a wedge when the thickness of the rootstock does not allow splitting, but exceeds the thickness of the scion by several times. I do not recommend this method for beginners, since the cuts of the wedge must be perfect, and this comes with experience. On the rootstock, a cut is made in a triangular shape on the side, exactly the same cut is made on the scion - the joints should ideally match and touch each other (see the picture).

Then the grafting site must be wrapped with a cloth or twine so that fusion occurs better. It is also recommended to treat this part with a thin layer of garden pitch (garden putty for damaged areas of the plant). You can buy it or make your own.

Recipe for making garden pitch - video

I will tell you one secret - some gardeners and growers use ordinary PVA glue to putty grafts. A simple recipe - for half a liter of PVA glue we take 2 vials of brilliant green, and a plate of aspirin (10 tablets). We knead the aspirin into powder and dissolve in 50 ml of warm water, then add the green, mix, and pour into the glue.

Grafting grapes back to back

For this grafting, both the stock and the scion must be of the same diameter. You will also need a wooden hairpin blade 4-5 cm, which will connect both parts. We dig the stem to a depth of 10 cm, saw off the top, the cuts on both connecting parts should be parallel, clean and even (without notches).

We insert the hairpin into the rootstock trunk strictly in the center, we put a scion on it clearly in the middle (2-.5 cm below the kidney) - the joints should be ideal. Next, wrap the vaccine with cotton wool moistened with a solution of potassium permanganate, then wrap it with wet toilet paper. Or instead, we wrap it with a clean rag and cover it with garden pitch.

Then it remains to sprinkle the stump with sawdust mixed with earth, ash and humus, cover with a film. Plant care after grafting is exactly the same as with other methods. I will not add a video, since the method is quite simple and understandable, everything can be seen in the photo above.

Grafting grapes - above-ground methods

The methods for grafting grapes into an underground trunk have been described above, but some of them can also be used in an above-ground rootstock.

Budding grapes with a kidney (eye) quickly and easily - video

Use this grafting method only in the warm season, starting from the end of July, in the morning or evening, so that the spliced ​​places do not dry out. You can do budding in cloudy weather during the day, but water the plant well the day before. After the procedure, you can make a putty from a garden pitch so that moisture does not leave the cuts. The film must be removed after a month.

Multi-varietal regrafting of grapes - video

I suggest watching this video, because it's easier to see once than to describe all the actions on several pages. This video will be useful for those who want to make a bush-bouquet from different varieties. The grafting method used is split (with hangers on the scion and rootstock) - it is quite simple, fast and reliable.

This method is also suitable if your old grape bush is undersized, and you want to grow more crops on it, while saving space and time. In the same way, you can rejuvenate an old vineyard using a well-rooted trunk. So you will start harvesting the first crop the very next year, and not after 4-5 years, as if you were planting new young seedlings.

Grafting grapes black to black

Why is this inoculation called black to black? Because both the scion and the stock are used for it stiff (that is, "old"). Such copulation is done in a split (it was written about it above) or by drilling. For drilling, we take a manual (or electric) drill with the same diameter as the scion (the nozzle must be disinfected with alcohol or manganese).

You can drill a hole both in the lateral aerial part of the trunk, and in the upper cut (butt-to-butt). In the first case, we drill a hole 1.5-2 cm deep on the side of the rootstock trunk, and cut off the bark on the scion also by 1.5-2 cm We insert the cutting into the trunk (something like a chopstick), deepening it by lightly tapping it (for example, with a pruner). We grease the place of fastening with garden pitch.

If we drill a butt-to-joint (we use a drill instead of splitting), then we take the diameter of the drill bit and the scion 1 mm less than the diameter of the stock. We make a recess of about 1.5 cm with a drill, and on the scion we remove the bark to the same length as the hole. We insert the cutting into the hole, deepening it, and wrap the junction or cover it with pitch.

I won’t add a separate video about grafting grapes “black to black” by splitting, so as not to waste your time showing repetitions. You can see this method above in the video, called "Multi-varietal regrafting of grapes."

Grafting grapes green to green

It is done by the wedge-to-split method, grafting pruner or simple copulation, only the stock and scion for this grafting are used young. I recommend to see once than to read a thousand words, a step-by-step and very detailed video guide (see below).

Green grafting of grapes (green to green) - video

In this video you will see three methods of grafting: split, grafting pruner and simple copulation. Happy viewing.

For convenience, use a special grafting pruner, which allows you to make grooves on the rootstock and scion with a single click. You can order with free shipping and at a wholesale purchase price on the Aliexpress website. link (the set includes a winding tape).

Grafting grapes black into green

Black to green grafting is no different from green to green or black to black. In this case, we will have a young stock, and the graft of the cutting will already be stiff from last year. An important condition - it had to be properly stored throughout the winter (in a cool, dark and humid place - for example, in a bag on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator).

We prepare the grafting material as described in the section on preparing the graft for grafting, namely: paraffin and soak in a growth stimulator. Both parts (stalk and rootstock) can be spliced ​​into a split, by simple copulation, into a side notch of the corner (a split is made in the trunk, the scion is cut with a wedge - see the video).

Grafting grapes in the side cut - how to do - video

Winter grafting grapes on the table

This grafting is carried out by connecting two cuttings (stock and scion) of different varieties. What is it for? There may be several reasons, for example, a variety of graft cuttings of grapes is not resistant to phylloxera, has poor frost resistance. The stock cutting, on the contrary, has good phylloxera resistance, and its variety is frost-resistant. See the video for detailed step by step instructions.

Desktop grafting of grapes - video

The grafting pruner can be ordered from China at the purchase price and with free shipping, or .

The video shows grafting using a special secateurs. If you don’t have this (or you just made an order, but it’s time to do the procedure now), then you can notice the method in a split, simple copulation or with a tongue. What is with the tongue- an oblique cut is made on both blanks of the cuttings, after which one more longitudinal cut is connected, as in the picture below.

Grafting for the bark - video

In this video you will see a method of grafting over the bark (or under the bark). The method is shown on a peach tree, but it can be applied to both grapes and other fruit trees.

Grape care after grafting

So, we planted grapes in any of the above ways, but the care will still be the same for everyone:

• Once a week, remove all shoots so that all nutrition and juices go into the graft splice;
• Tie up the new growth so that it is not broken by the wind;
• After a month, loosen the winding at the junction, and completely remove it after another week;
• Do not allow the soil to dry out and direct sunlight (cover the grapes with gauze or mesh);
• Since grafting is a kind of operation, make sure that it is not exposed to various diseases, periodically treat the plants with preparations for oidium and mildew.

Common mistakes newbies make when vaccinating

Let me start with the fact that a very common mistake is not observing the polarity during copulation of grapes. (Copulation is grafting with cuttings).

The main rule is that the eyes, both on the scion and on the stock, should be parallel to each other. What does it mean? If the buds are located on the rootstock on the right and on the left, then they should also look at the scion in the same directions, but in no case should they be placed above and below. This means that the cut in the trunk and on the handle must be done based on this rule.

The next mistakes are a poorly sharpened tool and uneven cuts, the cambial layer at the spliced ​​places does not match (there must be a complete alignment of the cambial layer on at least one side).

The reason for the failure of the grafting material may be poor loose wrapping (resulting in excessive moisture or drying out). Always start winding from the bottom, with a tight stretch.

Another equally important point is poor-quality grafting material - a dry and weakened cutting; diseased rootstock with mold or fungi.

During the hot season, keep the grafted area out of bright sun until fusion is complete. It will be enough to cover the inoculation site with one layer of gauze (you can fix it with a clothespin). When (about a month later), the wounds on the grapes heal and grow together, the gauze wrapping must be removed.

Grafting grapes is an incredible invention in viticulture. Firstly, it allows you to save space in the garden, due to the fact that two types of grapes will bear fruit on one bush. Secondly, in this way, you can update a bored or low-yielding variety by replacing it with a more popular one.

In addition, there are varieties that do not tolerate wintering well, are whimsical in care, exposed to diseases and pests, but at the same time, have the most delicious and juicy fruits. In this case, you can graft this variety on a less whimsical bush.

Another reason for the use of grafting is to reduce the time it takes to reach fruit-bearing age, due to the fact that the cutting receives everything it needs from the root system of adult grapes.

1. Budding . The principle of this method is very simple and allows you to save all the leaves and eyes on the rootstock, which maintains the normal circulation of all grape growth processes. The bottom line is this: two oblique cuts are made on the handle (graft) above and below the eye, after which this eye is cut out in such a way that a groove remains on the handle. A similar groove is made on the rootstock, into which the cut-out shield must be inserted. After that, the vaccination site is tied with a plaster or twine.

2. Underground grafting back to back . To do this, the cutting is selected from the seedling grown in the school and in the spring a cut is made 4-5 cm below the soil level. Scion and rootstock diameters must match. A wooden rod with a diameter of about 5 mm and a length of 25-30 mm is taken, in which both ends are sharpened, and inserted halfway through the scion and stock. Tie the junction with a cloth soaked in water, and put a plastic bag on top and tie it with twine. Periodically, it is necessary to moisten a rag with water without untying the package (you can use a syringe). When the buds begin to open on the handle, the bag is slightly torn, and when the young shoots reach the mark of 5-6 cm, the polyethylene is completely removed.

3. Grafting grapes into a split to an underground shaft. To begin with, we prepare the cuttings that have been stored since autumn. Sharpen the ends and place in the Epin solution for 15 minutes. Now we move on to the bush (stock), which must be dug to a depth of at least 20 cm. There should be an even, smooth cut on the trunk, after which a pointed, wedge-shaped split is made in the center, corresponding in shape and depth to the scion cut. Now two rootstock cuttings are inserted into this split. The whole structure is fixed with twine, smeared with clay, wrapped in cellophane and fixed with adhesive tape. Fill the hole with earth, and sprinkle that part of the scion that is above ground level a little with a slide of wet sand.

We prepare and check the cuttings that have been stored since autumn. To do this, you need to make an renewing cut, which should pass slightly below the lower kidney. Since the cuttings have been in the dormant phase for a long time, they must be activated by soaking for 15 minutes in the Epin solution.

The vaccination procedure is carried out only in the early morning or late afternoon, so as not to catch the scorching rays of the sun. Or at any time of the day on a cloudy day.

Now let's prepare the rootstock. To do this, we make the first clean, even cut on a healthy shoot and the second in the middle of the first along the trunk to a depth of about 3 cm. As if dividing the shoot in two. Then carefully insert the scion into this slot so that the eyes on the stock and the scion (closer to the junction) look in opposite directions. Fix the vaccination site with twine, polyethylene and tape.

Using the same technology, you can graft a green cutting on a green shoot (in June or July). Just skip the point with soaking.

Autumn vaccination is often used to revive an old bush. In this case, the technology consists in grafting cuttings into a split. The time of holding is the beginning of October, provided that the air temperature is not lower than 15°C.

To begin with, cuttings are soaked in a growth stimulator. After a couple of days, when the buds begin to swell and signs of pecking of the leaves appear, you can start. Cut off the entire upper part of the bush and wipe the cut surface with a damp cloth, you can also disinfect the cut by soaking the cloth in a special solution. Now we take a screwdriver (at least 5 mm in diameter, it all depends on the thickness of the barrel) and drive it in the center of the cut, to a depth of no more than 3 cm. After that, the end of the response form (in the form of a wedge) is sharpened on the handle. In this case, the depth of the split and the length of the cut must match.

The remaining empty spaces in the section are closed with chips. If the thickness of the trunk of the old bush allows you to insert several cuttings, then you can insert 2-3, but with a small gap between each scion (at least 10-20 mm). The grafting site is tightly tied with twine and smeared with wet clay or garden pitch (protection from drying out).

In this case, harvesting for the scion begins in the fall, and the bushes as a stock should be young (one or two years old). The time period is from January to March.

The preparation of the scion cutting is similar to the other described method. It is necessary to wait until the bush sheds all the leaves (in late autumn), after which it must be completely dug up, cutting off the upper part, leaving about 10-15 cm. Disinfect the cut in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (pale pink). Now you can place the stock in a container with wet sand, and sprinkle with sawdust on top and store in the basement at a temperature of about 0 ° C. The day before the scheduled vaccination, the stock must be checked: removed from the cellar, cleaned, removed those roots that have rotted, and shortened the rest, leaving about 15 cm. The bush is transferred to a room with a temperature of about 18-20 ° C, it should warm up a little ( several hours).

After warming up, place the roots in a container of water, the temperature of which is about 15 ° C, for a day.

After the allotted time, the roots are dried with a rag, after which they can be vaccinated using any of the above methods.

The grafted grapes are placed in a container and covered with polyethylene and transferred to a warm place (24-28°C) for several weeks. After 2-3 weeks, the grapes again migrate to the container, put in a dark and cool place, and wait for the arrival of spring. When the temperature outside warms up above 16 ° C, we take the grapes out of the container and check, removing possible dead parts of the roots. Now you need to accustom the seedling to the street and keep it in the fresh air for a couple of days, starting with a couple of hours (in the shade of trees) a day, increasing the intervals. And then plant in the ground.

Grape care after grafting

After the spring, summer or autumn vaccination, the bush must be loosened, watered and spud.

If, two weeks after grafting, young shoots did not begin to appear on the grafted cutting, then it is necessary to cut off the upper part of the rootstock along with the grafted part and carry out the procedure again.

Once a week, you need to monitor how the plant behaves. If there are any protruding roots from the scion, they must be removed, otherwise they may take root in the ground, and this cutting will grow as a separate plant, and will have nothing to do with the graft. All the roots of the cutting should be put into the stock, as if building a connection and creating a new circulation system for all growth processes.

Those bushes that were grafted in the autumn must be covered with straw.

As a rule, the most delicious and juicy table varieties are easily vulnerable - they do not differ in frost resistance and are often attacked by pests. To make it less troublesome to grow these varieties, there is a procedure for grafting the cuttings of the desired grape to a stable and strong bush of another variety.

In addition, grafting is an excellent way out of the situation when, for some reason, the old bush has ceased to suit the gardener, and there is no desire to wait until the young seedling reaches fruiting age. So, by grafting a new variety into a split, you can replace the bored grapes with another, more productive and tasty one.

Choosing a rootstock variety and harvesting cuttings

The procedure for grafting grapes is not too different from the same process for fruit trees. But still, there are several features that are important to consider for the successful fusion of parts of different plants.

To obtain a high-quality promising scion, the cuttings should be properly prepared from the fall, before the onset of the first frost. For cuttings, an adult healthy bush is selected that brings good fruits corresponding to a particular variety.

The cuttings must be cut with a sharp blade of a knife or secateurs, which was previously well washed with running water. Each of them should have at least a pair of eyes. The recommended length of the cuttings is 10-15 centimeters. Damaged or weakened parts of the plant are not suitable for grafting, as they are unlikely to take root on the stock.

It is advisable to immediately note for yourself where the bottom is, and where the top of the handle is, so as not to get confused in this in the spring.

Chopped cuttings for disinfection are placed literally for half a minute in a three percent solution of copper sulfate, and then laid out to dry on a clean towel. Prepared cuttings should be stored strictly at a temperature below 5 degrees, wrapped in polyethylene.

The grape growers consider the varieties of the Riparia, Solonis, Kober groups and hybrids created on the basis of their crossing with other European species to be the best as rootstocks. Also, the most suitable options would be rootstocks of grapes, equivalent to the cutting variety in terms of growth strength.

Grafting methods are classified based on the characteristics of the parts of the plants to be spliced:

• "Black to black" - last year's stalk is added to the stiffened shoot.
• “Black to green” - a cutting from last season is grafted onto a blossoming green shoot of a rootstock bush.
• “Green to green” - both the stock and the grafting material in this case are young, of the current season.

Spring grafting of grapes

In the spring, the cuttings are grafted after the buds swell on the rootstock, when the air temperature is approximately + 12-16 degrees. In most regions of Russia, the best month for this event is April.

There are several types of grape grafting in the spring season:

Budding

A method in which on the handle, about 2 centimeters below the eye, and on the stock, the shields are carefully cut off and the cut points of two plants are connected. The areas of their contact are tied with twine, tape or a special floral tape.

Vaccination end-to-end underground

First, the selected shoot of the rootstock bush is cut off at a level of approximately 5-7 centimeters from the soil surface. Then a transverse incision is made in it, into which a short wooden rod is inserted to expand it. The stalk is planted on a scion, fixed with a piece of cloth soaked in water, and the grafting site is wrapped with polyethylene.

To constantly maintain the moisture content of the fabric, it is systematically moistened by moving the edges of the film. Polyethylene can be cut only at the moment when all the buds have blossomed on the scion, and the film can be completely removed after the shoots appear.

In a split in an underground trunk

A couple of days before the start of the procedure, the lower part of the cuttings is sharpened sharply and immersed in Epin's solution. A rootstock bush is dug in to a depth of 18-25 centimeters and cleaned of bark. A split 3-5 centimeters long is made in the center of the trunk with a sharply sharpened knife, into which a scion is subsequently inserted. The place of contact of the parts of the plants is fixed with twine or ribbon, the stem of the grapes is again covered with earth.

Grafting by drilling

The crown of the selected stock is cut off, then a hole is made from the thickest side of the vine in the stem with the help of drilling, with a diameter suitable for further placement of the scion cutting into it. The place of contact of plants with each other is smeared with garden pitch.

Summer combined vaccination method

During the summer season, grafting can be done in a combined way in a split - using a stiffened cutting into a green shoot.

1. 1. On the cuttings harvested last fall, it is necessary to update the cut slightly below the kidney and sharpen the tip. Then place the grafts in a bucket of water and keep there until the buds swell on them. If this does not happen for too long, it makes no sense to use such material - it will not come to life.
2. 2. It is advisable to start vaccination early in the morning, in the evening after sunset or at any time in cloudy weather. To activate the growth, the cuttings should be placed in a container with Epin's solution for 15 minutes.
3. 3. Before the procedure, a part of the shoot is cut off from the rootstock vine, in the middle of which a cut is made with a depth of 2 centimeters. A scion is carefully inserted into this hole, so that the eyes of the cutting and the shoot of an adult bush look in different directions. The vaccination site, as usual, is fixed, and a plastic bag is put on top.

Also at the beginning of summer, green cuttings are grafted onto the green shoots of the stock. The technique is the same, except that the freshly cut graft does not need to be soldered with water to swell the buds. The cuttings are simply cut from the bushes immediately before grafting, their tips are sharpened and inserted into the cut on the shoot of the rootstock bush.

Autumn renewal of an old bush by grafting into a split

In autumn, cuttings are usually grafted into the trunk of an old non-fruiting bush. For this:

1. 1. First of all, the scion is soaked in a preparation that stimulates the growth of root processes, for example, Epin or Kornevin. After a few days, the buds should begin to swell on the cuttings.
2. 2. At an air temperature of at least +15-18 degrees, the aerial part of the old trunk is carefully cut off, and a split about 2-4 centimeters deep is made in the center of the stem.
3. 3. The lower tip of the cutting is pointed and inserted into the incision on the old trunk. The attachment point is fixed and processed with a garden pitch.

If the trunk of the grape bush has a large diameter, several cuttings of the desired variety can be grafted onto it at once.

Bushes grafted in autumn must be more carefully covered for the winter, using spruce branches or straw for this.

Carrying out the procedure in the winter at home

In the cold season, one-two-year-old grape bushes are grafted.

1. 1. After the autumn leaf fall, the rootstock bush must be dug out of the ground, cut to 10-12 centimeters and disinfect the remaining stumps with a solution of potassium permanganate. It must be stored in a container with sand and sawdust at zero air temperature.
2. 2. The day before the vaccination, the bush should be transferred to a warm room, cut off all rotten roots and shorten healthy root shoots to 12-18 centimeters.
3. 3. After a few hours, when the plant warms up and gets used to the new temperature regime, it must be immersed in a container of water and kept in it for a day.
4. 4. After the recommended period for soldering the rootstock, you can graft the stalk to it using any method you like.
5. 5. After the vaccination, the bush is again placed in a container, covered with polyethylene and placed close to a heater or battery for 20 days to maintain a temperature approximately equal to +28 degrees.
6. 6. After 3 weeks, the plant will be ready to move to a cool, dark place in anticipation of planting in open ground when spring arrives.

Bush care rules

After vaccination, at any time of the year, except for winter, the grapes will need watering and loosening the earth in the near-stem circle. When choosing a method for grafting into a split trunk, the place of contact of plant parts cannot be covered with earth.

If, after two weeks from the moment of inoculation, young shoots did not appear on the cutting, the upper part of the stock should be cut off along with the inoculation and the procedure should be repeated again.

Every 10 days it is important to inspect the grafted plants and cut off the root shoots that were not grafted into the stock. In this case, they will take root in the soil, bypassing the root system of an adult culture. In addition, you need to ensure that the surface around the bush does not dry out and does not become covered with a crust.

Grafting of grapes is carried out at any time of the year. Each term has its own rules. Simple manipulation allows you to increase the yield of the vineyard, make the vine resistant to certain diseases and pests. Vaccinations of new varieties allow summer residents to save space on the site. Without planting new bushes, without bothering to find a place, it is easy to get berries of a completely new taste. The main thing is to do the vaccination correctly.

Why are they vaccinated

Even a small grape bush in the country can bring a good harvest. It requires care, grows for quite some time until the root system develops enough and the vine begins to bear fruit. Grafted grapes give much more yield. This is achieved through various mechanisms. With the help of grafting, varietal qualities can be transferred to wild grapes. Girlish grapes are more adapted to a particular climate, it will partially transfer its characteristics to the varietal. Grafting allows you to improve an existing variety or completely change the quality of the bush. At the same time, the root system is preserved, the grapes begin to bear fruit the very next year. If you plant a new bush, you will have to wait a couple of years for the harvest.

What is the optimal time for grafting grapes? This is the question every newbie asks. Most growers find it best to do this during the heaviest juice movement in the stems (apiaries). This time comes approximately in the middle of spring, before the swelling of the kidneys. Spring grafting of grapes has the highest percentage of engraftment of cuttings, almost all of them give young pagons.

You can graft grapes in the summer. The best time for this is the end of June or the beginning of July. The movement of juices in the vine is still intense. Until the end of the season, the scion takes root. Summer vaccination is carried out in not very hot, but not in cloudy weather. You can't do it on a rainy day. Summer inoculation is not only black. A green branch can be used as a cutting. Graft it on the same stock as the black one.

Grafting grapes in spring - black to black

Grapes Grafting into the stem of a bush.

Grafting of grapes into a bole. Method Yakushenka V.E. Part 1

Green grape graft

Grafting grapes green to green

Grafting grapes, black-to-black method.

Grafting grapes "green to green" - the easiest and simplest, 100% survival rate - try it!

Vaccination of grapes master class

Spring grafting of grapes. (English method). Spain.

Vaccination of grapes master class 2

It is allowed to graft grapes in the fall, after it has been pruned. They do it from the end of August to October, until the air temperature drops below 15 degrees. In autumn, grapes are grafted onto a trunk, although this can also be done in a split. It is best to use old bushes with a well-developed root system. Already in the spring they will accelerate growth, their productivity will increase.

Annual or biennial vines are grafted in winter or early spring. To do this, use the method of desktop vaccination. The rootstock is taken out of the ground, cleaned of rotten roots. Vaccination is done at room conditions. When the temperature outside rises to 15 degrees, the grape bush is planted in the garden. Winter grafting allows you to save almost all young vines.

Spring grafting of grapes

Grafting of grapes in the spring in the period from late April to early May is carried out most often. It is important that the weather is warm, the air temperature is above 15 degrees. You can not plant grapes under the scorching sun or during rain. Various methods are used:

• budding
• underground grafting
• Splitting.

Cuttings for spring grafting should be prepared from winter, and preferably from autumn. Put them in a cold place, such storage is best suited to the physiology of the vine. The thickness of the scion should not be less than 0.7-0.8 centimeters. Before the procedure, you need to hold the cuttings for several days at room temperature, wrapping the tips with plastic wrap. On the day of vaccination, the tips are treated with copper sulfate, the sections are refreshed, removing the black, darkened part. By budding, two branches of approximately the same thickness are grafted. Make an oblique cut, one and a half or two centimeters above the kidney. Then the graft is applied to the rootstock, fixed with a plaster, tied with polyethylene.

When grafting underground, the stock is cut five centimeters below the ground. A transverse incision is made in it with a grafting knife, a three-centimeter scion with a kidney is inserted there, and tightly covered with a moistened piece of cloth and polyethylene. Periodically water the vaccination site with water from a syringe. Polyethylene is removed when five full branches appear on the bush.

The easiest way is to graft the grapes into a split. This is how most fruit trees are grafted - apple, pear, mulberry, cherry, etc. To do this, two or three days before the manipulation, the cuttings are treated with Epin's solution, which improves engraftment. The trunk of the bush is dug 15-20 centimeters deep, the old roots are removed. In the center of the trunk, a split is made by 3-4 centimeters. Two cuttings are inserted into it along the edges, the trunk is covered with earth, the cuttings are sprinkled with sand.

Summer vaccination

Summer grafting of a grape bush is carried out in June or July. Use cuttings prepared in the fall. They are cut from below in the form of a wedge of two centimeters in length. Before grafting, they are placed in water until the buds open. You can add a growth stimulator at the end, for example, Gumiam or Epin.

It is best to transfer the cutting to the grape bush in the morning or in the evening so that the cutting does not stand under the scorching sun. An incision is made on the vine 2-3 centimeters deep, a scion is inserted there. The knives with which the cuts are made must be clean, they can be disinfected with alcohol or potassium permanganate. They tie the structure with a rope or cloth, coat it with clay on top and wrap it with plastic wrap. It should be attached above and below the vaccination site.

In summer, you can use not only the standard black grafting, but also green. How to plant grapes with a young branch? To do this, take a fresh green vine, choose the same stock on the bush. The tips of the cuttings are sharpened in the form of a wedge, a cut is made on the branch. A young graft is inserted into a split on the vine, wrapped with twine, covered with clay and covered with polyethylene. Summer grafting with a green cutting is good because the graft does not need to be prepared in advance. The percentage of engraftment is quite high. Not lower than in cases where the black branch is used.

Autumn grafting of grape bushes

In autumn, grapes are grafted onto an old bush, which gives a poor harvest. This helps to revive the plant, preserving the root system, and get a new prolific variety. The cuttings are soaked in a growth stimulator for 2-3 days. When the buds swell, you can transfer them to the bush. It is important that at the time of transfer the temperature does not fall below 15 degrees. Therefore, the manipulation should be carried out no later than the beginning of October.

Autumn grafting of grapes is carried out in the trunk. With a clean knife, carefully cut off the upper part of the trunk. A split is made in the center, about three centimeters deep. You can expand it with a screwdriver. The tip of the handle is pointed in the form of a cone, 2-3 centimeters long. Insert it into the crevice. If the trunk is wide, you can insert 2-3 cuttings. The edges are sealed with pieces of toilet paper, clay or grapevine. Then they pull the bole with a rope, cover it with clay so that the scion does not dry out.

There are other ways of grafting onto a stem, for example, by drilling. The cuttings are prepared in advance, put in a warm place for 2-3 days, wrap the tips with a film. Then they scrape off a part of the bark from below, about five centimeters thick. It is important that the cambium is exposed after stripping. The stem is cut with a pruner, a thin drill is taken, it is disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate. After that, a hole is made in the core with a drill, a cutting is inserted there. Carefully close up the grafting site with clay, spud with earth.

Is it possible to plant grapes on a young bush in autumn? Such a procedure can be done, but it is better to plant young bushes in the spring. They grow more intensively than the old ones, do not require a long period of engraftment. The risks that the scion will not take root on a branch in the spring are much less. Juices circulate intensively in the branches, heat and high humidity contribute to the rapid growth of the vine.

winter vaccination

You can also graft grapes in winter. It is called desktop, and is held indoors. The technology is as follows:

• Prepare cuttings in the usual way.
• Saplings, aged 1-2 years, are dug up after the leaves have fallen.
• The bush is cut at a height of 10 centimeters, cleaned of old and rotten roots.
• They put it in a container with sand, take it out to the basement, where the air temperature is around zero.
• The day before vaccination, the bush is brought into the room, the roots are examined again, and the extra ones are removed.
• The rootstock is placed in a container with water at room temperature.
• A day later, the bush is pulled out of the water, a scion is attached to it in any way possible.
• Grafted grapes are placed in a glass bowl, covered with polyethylene, placed in a warm place (with a temperature of 25-28 degrees).
• After 2-3 weeks, the bush is transferred to a container, placed in a cold place.

You can plant grapes on open ground when the temperature is above 15 degrees. Before this, the bush is kept for 2-3 days on the street. This method allows cuttings and bushes to better survive the winter. After all, young seedlings are very sensitive, not everyone tolerates cold and frost. Weak roots can rot in winter, and the plant itself can die.

Care after vaccination

Each owner chooses for himself ways of convenient grafting of grapes. It is necessary to take into account not only the season, but also the climatic zone, variety, and other factors. Normal harvesting and storage of scions in autumn and winter is important. If everything is done correctly, the stalk will take root and will soon begin to bear fruit. For beginner growers, it will be useful to watch video lessons on grafting cuttings.

Dates and times of vaccination may vary. The success of the event depends not only on them. Whether or not the petiole takes root is largely influenced by proper care after the procedure. If the vaccination is carried out in summer or spring, the bush is spudded and watered, the earth is well loosened. When grafting in autumn, you can not cover the place of the scion with earth. When frost occurs, they must be covered with straw, branches and film.

The first shoots on the cutting should appear in about two weeks. When this does not happen, you need to repeat the procedure with a new scion. You need to check the condition of the cutting every 10-12 days. Roots that appear on the branch and do not grow inside the trunk must be carefully removed. Particular attention is paid to this if the grapes were grafted into a split. Otherwise, the roots will grow into the ground. All weeds around the grafted bush must be carefully removed.