Fastening metal tiles on the roof with self-tapping screws. Roof made of metal tiles - reliable protection in a new house Method of fixing metal tiles

How to fasten a metal tile: fastening scheme and installation rules.

It would seem a simple, insignificant stage, but in fact, fastening a metal tile is a responsible process that has strict rules, on which not only the neatness of the roof depends, but also its service life, reliability from leaks, and resistance to strong gusty winds.

To fasten the metal tile to the crate of wooden boards, special roofing hexagonal screws 4.8 × 28 mm with a rubber gasket are used, the caps of which correspond to the color of the roof. You can buy them together with metal tiles, and in case of a shortage, you can buy them at the nearest construction market or in a store.

Tool for fastening metal tiles

For fixing metal tiles, use screwdrivers and a hexagonal nozzle for self-tapping screws. In this case, the best option for a screwdriver is cordless. When using electric screwdrivers, metal tiles may be damaged in the form of scratches left by extension cords. It also greatly affects the convenience and speed of installation.

The nozzle for self-tapping screws is used in the size corresponding to the size of the screw head. As a rule, these are nozzles with a magnet.

Fastening of a metal tile

Initially, you need to adjust the torque limit of the screwdriver so that when the sheet of metal is finally pressed against the crate, the rubber gasket is slightly compressed.

You need to tighten the self-tapping screw perpendicular to the boards of the crate. With a reduced torque of the screwdriver, the compression of the gasket required for sealing will not be achieved.

Incorrect screw tightening

With increased torque on the screwdriver, the gasket will be compressed too much, which may result in reduced gasket life.

In addition, with an increased torque of the screwdriver, there will be a danger of turning the self-tapping screw in the crate and loosening the fastening.

During the fastening of the metal tile, the degree of compression of the rubber gasket is constantly visually controlled.

If a self-tapping screw gets into denser wood, for example, into a knot, with the "regular" setting of the screwdriver, the self-tapping screw may turn out to be under-twisted. In such cases, it is necessary to increase the torque limit of the screwdriver and tighten the self-tapping screw. Then restore the previously set torque limit on the screwdriver.

The main rule for attaching metal tiles to the crate

When fastening sheets of metal tiles, along the slope area, the screws are screwed into regular places located 10-15 mm below the stamping line - in the middle between the crests of adjacent waves.

With a correctly mounted step crate, you can safely screw the self-tapping screw into any regular place, since there is guaranteed to be a step crate board under the regular place.

At the same time, the metal lies on this board without a gap, and when the self-tapping screw is tightened, the metal tile sheet will be securely pressed against the crate without deformation of the sheet. At the same time, the self-tapping screws will be almost invisible on the roof, since they are located in the shadow of the "step".

Step crate- this is a crate of boards of the same size, mounted at equal distances from each other with a step equal to the step of the metal tile. The eaves and ridge boards of the batten may have a different thickness and can be installed outside the general rhythm of the step batten.

Incorrect fastening of the metal tile to the crate

The figures below show typical common mistakes when attaching a metal tile to a crate.

Self-tapping screw 5 mm from the edge of the board:

Fastening to the edge of the board leads to the fact that the self-tapping screw splits the edge of the board, which makes the fastening itself extremely unreliable.

The step of the crate is observed, but at the same time the step crate is displaced from its regular places:

When the gasket is pressed, the metal tile sheet is deformed (deformation between the stamping lines):

When the gasket is pressed, the metal tile sheet is deformed (deformation along the stamping line):

Rule number 1. Joining sheets of metal tiles along the waves

The fastening of metal tile sheets to each other along the waves is intended to protect the slope plane from the effects of side wind and to give the entire slope plane a uniform appearance. Drive self-tapping screws in each row below the stamping line to any place in the "sector" from the crest of the wave to the outer edge of the top sheet, as shown in the figure.

In order for the longitudinal joints of the sheets not to stand out on the plane of the roof, tighten all the screws of these joints until the sheets are finally attached to the crate.

Rule number 2. Docking sheets of metal tiles in rows

Docking of sheets in rows always takes place on the board of the step crate. Screw the screws into regular places in each wave.

The figure shows the places of fastening of the metal tile along the area ( main rule) and along the perimeter of the sheets (rules 1-5).

Self-tapping screws are screwed along the area of ​​​​the slope with a uniform "breakdown" along the slope, moving, for example, from the cornice to the ridge through the row, twisting the screws in every third wave, with a shift to the left or right by one wave when moving to the next fastened row.

To protect the roof from the effects of wind load, it is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws:

• sheets of metal tiles between themselves when docking along the waves (rule No. 1);
• sheets of tiles between themselves when docked in rows (rule No. 2).
• sheets of tiles to the crate along the ridge line (rule No. 4);
• sheets of tiles to the crate along the end lines (rule No. 5).

The total consumption of self-tapping screws is on average 8-10 pieces per 1 m².

Rule number 3. Fastening metal tiles on the eaves

The most common method of forming a cornice unit, in which the lower regular cut of the metal tile protrudes beyond the edge of the cornice strip by about 50 mm, and rainwater enters the gutter directly from the metal tile sheet. The cornice strip serves to protect wooden structural elements from splashes.

In order for the lower wave not to sink down, the cornice board must be 10-15 mm thicker than the others. The center-to-center distance from the cornice board to the first board of the step lathing is 250 mm with a board width of 100 mm.

Self-tapping screws are screwed along the cornice line 60-70 mm above the stamping line in every second wave.

When using the second method of forming the cornice assembly, the regular cut of the metal tile is located on top of the cornice strip and rainwater enters the drain from the cornice strip.

This method can be useful for finding a way out of difficult situations, for example, when installing metal tiles with a stepped cornice and unsuccessful step sizes, or when the roof geometry is broken.

Rule number 4. Fastening metal tiles when approaching the ridge

When installing the roof with warehouse sheets, the top board of the step lathing will be the supporting board of the ridge. In most cases, you will need to mount an additional ridge board above the top board of the step batten, while ensuring a gap between the ridge boards of adjacent slopes of at least 80 mm to ensure under-roof ventilation.

In order to make it possible to bring the ridge strip at the ends of the house over the end strips, a ridge support board with a thickness increased by 10-15 mm is mounted. If you mount a ridge board of normal thickness, the ridge will “sag” down relative to the end plank line.

Fastening the ridge strip to the metal tile

To fix the ridge (spine) plank, it is attracted with self-tapping screws to the highest points of the metal tile sheets.

Since these points are located at the same distance from the crate, the ridge bar will not deform when the screws are tightened to the nominal compression of the gasket. The distance between the screws should not exceed 0.8 m.

Rule number 5. Fastening of metal tiles on the ends of the slope.

The self-tapping screws are screwed along the end lines of the slope into regular (corresponding to the main rule) places of the metal tile in each wave.

End plate fastening

To fix the end strip, it is pulled with self-tapping screws to the highest points of the metal tile sheets in every second wave.

Since these points are located at the same distance from the crate, the end plate will not deform when the screws are tightened to the nominal compression of the gasket.

In addition, the end plank is attached to the gable board with self-tapping screws in increments of no more than 0.8 m. Since these self-tapping screws will be clearly visible, they are screwed with self-tapping screws in accordance with the markings in order to maintain the rhythm.

Today, metal tiles have become one of the most popular materials used as roofing. It has earned its popularity due to its durability, strength, reasonable cost and excellent appearance. In addition, mounting it is quite simple if you know the basic rules that must be followed. At the same time, fastening a metal tile is one of the most important operations that determine the reliability of the entire structure in the future.

What you need to know before you get started

How to properly fix sheets of metal to the crate

The crate itself is a construction of wooden boards of the same size, which is mounted at the same distance from each other (it must match the step of the metal tile used). The boards located under the ridge and at the eaves most often have a large thickness without maintaining the required distance between the boards on the slope.

In the process of fastening sheets of material on the roof slope, it is necessary to tighten the screws along the line located 10-15 mm lower from the stamping line between the ridges. In the event that the crate was made correctly, in full accordance with all the diagrams and instructions, the screws can be screwed into any regular place, since there must be a board there. For greater confidence that everything is being done correctly, it is worth watching a video on the topic (even if the work will not be done on your own).

Metal on the boards is always laid without a technological gap, so the sheets of metal tiles will be guaranteed to be pressed to the crate with high reliability without material deformation. It is worth noting that the fasteners will not be noticeable, as they will always be in the shadow of such a “step”.

Two ways of docking sheets

During installation, it is possible to use several effective methods for joining individual sheets of metal tiles: in waves or in rows. In the first case, the tasks of protecting the plane of the roofing material from side wind and uniformity and “integrity” of the appearance of the slope are solved. In this case, all self-tapping screws must be twisted in each of the rows below the stamping line, in the sector from the crest to the outer edge of the top sheet.

If docking is performed in rows, according to the installation instructions, it is done on the boards of the step crate (fasteners are placed on the boards in each wave). When it comes to the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope, the fasteners are distributed evenly. In this case, the movement is carried out from the cornice to the ridge, and fixation is carried out in every third wave with a shift in any direction by one wave of the sheet, when there is a transition to the next row to continue fastening.

How to fasten sheets along the cornice line

The formation of a cornice assembly with a sheet protruding beyond the edge (by about 50 mm) is used especially often today. In this case, all water after rain falls directly into the gutter, so the wooden structural elements remain reliably protected from splashes, which has a significant impact on their durability. Self-tapping screws in this case, according to the instructions, must be screwed in through one wave 70 mm above the stamping line.

It is important to consider: so that the lower waves do not sag down, with this method, it is necessary to attach it to a board of greater thickness than the rest by 15-20 mm. The distance between the centers of the first stepping board and the eaves board, with a width of 100 mm, will be 250 mm.

Also, this node can be formed so that the regular cut of the metal tile is located on top of the cornice board (in this case, rainwater will fall into the gutters directly from it). Most often, this method is resorted to in some situations that are difficult for roofers, when it comes to stepped cornices or violations of the geometry of the roof in this area.

Approach to the ridge: fixing the metal tile

At the top of the structure, the batten always ends with a ridge support board. When performing this operation, the installation of an additional ridge board is required, thus providing a gap of 80 mm between the same boards of adjacent slopes, which plays an important role in organizing roof ventilation.

An effective way to bring the ridge plank to the end of the entire structure over the planks is to install a support board, which is 15-20 mm thicker than other sheathing materials used for roof construction.

This is the only way to avoid the “drawdown” of the roof ridge in relation to the line of the end plank.

The fastening of the spinal (ridge) strip is carried out with self-tapping screws at the highest points of the roofing material. The distance between the fasteners is up to 0.8 m. At the same time, it is worth noting that all fixation points will be located at an equal distance from the roof sheathing, therefore, when tightening the screws, there will be no deformation of the ridge bar.

Fastening at the end of the slope

First of all, it is necessary to fix sheets of metal tiles along the end lines of the roof slopes in each wave of material in regular places. Then, in order to fix the end bar, you need to fix it to the highest points of each of the sheets through one wave of material. The step between the bindings, as in the approach to the ridge, is no more than 0.8 m.

In these places, the fasteners will be noticeable, so it is advisable to clearly observe equal distances between them (it is best to mark up first).

When additional fastening with self-tapping screws is required

The main task in this case is to resist the design of wind loads. In this regard, it is necessary to provide increased reliability of fastening in the following areas:

1. sheets of metal tiles between each other when applying the method of fastening:
   • by waves (1);
   • by rows (2).
2. sheets to the crate:
   • along the cornice line (3);
   • along the ridge line (4).
3. along the end line (5) sheets are fixed on the boards.

How to fix a metal tile

The service life of any roof is directly dependent not only on the quality of the selected coating, but on the literacy of its installation. In this article we will talk about how to fix the metal tile correctly and what should not be done when laying it.

What screws to use and where to screw them

Such roofing screws should be used

This popular coating is fastened with special roofing screws.

They are galvanized screws with a hex-shaped head, painted in different colors to match the color of the coating, a sealing washer and a drill on the tip.

It is very important to choose high-quality screws, since their service life should be the same as that of a metal roof. It often happens that having bought a metal tile that has an improved polymer coating and a service life of about 50 years, inexperienced amateur builders buy fasteners on the market.

Such roofing screws of an unknown manufacturer may have ordinary rubber instead of ethylene - propylene rubber (EPOM material) on the sealing washer.

With prolonged exposure to seasonal temperature changes, as well as ultraviolet radiation, low-quality rubber dries out and becomes brittle after 3/4 of the year.

Now about what should be the technology of fastening metal tiles.

Fix the sheets correctly with a screw at the bottom of the wave. In this place, the metal is tightly adjacent to the crate.

Screw the self-tapping screws 2 centimeters below the step, which is a very convenient guide.

Proper fastening of metal tiles

The screw should enter 2 centimeters into the central part of the crate, so that the EPOM substrate deforms and hermetically fills the gap between the fastener head with the washer and the coating sheet.

Soon enough, the backing will vulcanize and form an impermeable joint. Therefore, it is recommended to fasten the metal tile with self-tapping screws, 28 mm long.

There is a fairly common erroneous method of screwing fasteners into the top of a wave of sheets.

For this method, self-tapping screws are used, having a length of 60 mm or more.

The rigidity of the tile profile at the top of its waves is not sufficient for the washer to be tightly pressed against the substrate.

In addition, the upper waves have a steep radius, it does not have a convenient landing area. A screw screwed in with a screwdriver crumples the metal, thereby lowering the decorative qualities of the profile.

Another serious drawback of this method of fastening is the inability to achieve reliable fixation of the material.

When metal tiles are fastened to the crate with self-tapping screws, the roofer screws them 6/8 pieces per 1 m².

To do this, he does not occupy a convenient position on the roof to screw each specific screw. From one position, let's say - 5/8 self-tapping screws are twisted from the stairs with each hand.

And if the competent screwing of screws into the lower parts of the waves, perpendicular to the crate, is technologically advanced, convenient enough and has little chance of marriage, then fixing the metal tile up the wave is complicated.

In this case, the screw with its drill-tip passes the coating sheet and after 25/50 mm, which depends on the height of the profile, enters the batten beam.

At the same time, the roofer is forced, holding a screwdriver in his hand with a screw already installed at its end, to feel to the touch to look for the beam of the crate under the metal tile.

And, finally, another unpleasant consequence of such an erroneous method of fixing sheets is the noise that is caused by the impact of metal tiles on the crate during gusts of wind.

Scheme of laying metal tiles

Proper fastening of metal sheets

First you need to recall the three most important rules related to the installation of sheets.

1. The laying of the metal tile covering must be started from the lower left corner of the roof.
2. Sheets are mounted from the bottom up, so the top sheet will overlap the bottom one.
3. To get a straight line of the cornice, carefully lay the first sheet.

Now about what is briefly a consistent scheme for fastening a metal tile.

1. Installation of a cornice strip.
2. Mounting the lower valley.
3. Arrangement of internal junctions of slopes to walls, chimneys, etc.
4. Installation of tile sheets.
5. Mounting the upper valley
6. Installation of the upper junction bars.
7. Attachment of end plates.
8. Installation of external corners and ridge slats.
9. Installation of passage and ventilation elements.
10. Arrangement of additional safety elements - snow retainer, walkways, stairs.

Now let's look at all these stages in more detail.

Stages of laying a roof made of metal tiles

Ridge bar attachment

Cornice planks. They must be installed before fixing the metal tile. This is done on top of the gutter holders.

Planks are fixed with galvanized screws with a step of 30 cm to the last beam or profile of the crate. The overlapping of the planks along the length should be 10 cm.

• Lower valley. Before fixing the metal tile, valleys must be laid at the joints of the slopes.

Under the lower ones, a continuous flooring is made with boards measuring 15 × 2.5 cm, over a length of 30/40 cm from the docking axis, in both directions.

Be sure to lay waterproofing on the resulting wooden gutter. The same can be said in the event that a metal tile with hidden fastening is laid.

• Next, fix the valley with screws in 30 cm increments. The lower edge of the additional element should be laid on top of the cornice board. When joining the valleys, the overlap between them must be at least 10 cm.

Between the sheets of metal tiles and the lower valley, it is imperative to lay a sealant. It is best if it is porous, self-adhesive.

1. Arrangement of connections. In order for the adjoining of the coating to the walls or chimneys to be as tight as possible, an internal apron is mounted on the roof slope. For its arrangement, the lower junction bar is used.

About how to properly attach the junction bar to the metal tile: it is applied to the pipe wall, and its upper edge is marked there. A strob is made along the marked line.

• Installation of the inner apron should begin with the bottom of the walls of the chimney. The plank, as necessary, is trimmed, then installed and fastened with roofing screws. In the same way, the apron is mounted along the remaining walls.
• To completely eliminate the possibility of leakage, overlaps of 15 cm must be made. The edge of the bar that is inserted into the strobe must be sealed.

Under the bottom of the inner apron, put a tie (flat sheet) designed to drain atmospheric moisture. You can direct it either down to the roof eaves, or directly into the valley.

Make a collar along the edge of this tie.

• Lay shingles over the drain and inner apron. When the coating around the chimney is laid, you can begin to mount the decorative (outer) apron, for this, the upper abutment strips are used.

It is installed in exactly the same way as the internal counterpart, but its upper edge is attached directly to the wall and does not start in a strobe.

• Connections to walls are carried out according to the same principle as to pipes. At the same time, the waterproofing must be removed and raised along the wall to a height of at least 5 cm. Depending on whether the connection is to the end of the wall or to the side, use a universal or profile seal.

1. Further, about what are the rules for fixing metal tiles. It must be laid in such a way that the center lines of the cornice and the sheet create an angle of 90º.

In this case, the lower edges of the entire tile will fold into a straight line. When, instead, a jagged edge forms, this means that somewhere the locks of adjacent sheets do not fit together.

In other words, they do not fit tightly to each other, and snow and water will penetrate into the cracks between them.

The sheets are fixed along the side edge with overlap, and the fastening of the metal tile with a screw must be carried out on each wave.

Then, looking at the metal roof from any side, you will not notice that it was assembled from separate sheets: the coating will look monolithic.

Now, a little about how to lay sheets in different ways.

• When installing tiles in one row, the first sheet is placed from right to left and then aligned along the butt and cornice. Then it is temporarily seized in the middle of the ridge with only one screw, the second of the sheets is superimposed on top of it and aligned with the first.
• Lay 3/4 sheets in a similar way, fastening them together, and not forgetting to align with the cornice line, and also be sure to pay attention to the overhang.
• Now you can fully attach the sheets to the crate. An important nuance is how to properly fix the metal tile: the last sheet in the row is not fixed to the crate until the next block of tiles is laid and leveled.
• When mounting in several rows, the first sheet is placed from right to left, equal to the end and cornice, then the second sheet is laid on top of the first, and temporarily fixed in the center at the ridge with one self-tapping screw.

The sheets are aligned and fixed with screws to each other.

• Next comes the turn of the third of the sheets. It is placed on the left side of the first one, the sheets are fixed with each other, then the fourth sheet is laid over the third.

Then the block is equal to the overhang, cornice and end. Then it is completely fastened with screws to the crate.

• A little about how to properly fix the metal tile on triangular slopes. Before starting laying sheets there, you need to mark the middle of the slope and draw a line through it.

Next, mark the exact same axis on the tile sheet. Then align the center lines on the sheet and slope. Secure the shingles to the ridge with one screw. From this sheet in both directions, continue to assemble the cover according to the principles described above.

1. About the installation of the end plate. It is both decorative and functional at the same time. Such strips protect the sheets from the effect of the lifting force of gusts of wind, the attachment points of the metal tile do not loosen.

In addition, this additional element protects wooden roof structures, as well as insulation from moisture penetration.

• The end plate must be mounted in the direction, starting from the eaves and going to the ridge. It is fastened with roofing screws to the end beam in increments of 50/60 cm, due to the height difference, the element is tightly pressed against the tile.

The overlap between the planks should be 10 cm, as necessary, they can be cut.

1. Installation of the upper valley. This additional element drains water from the inner corner of the junction of two slopes, in addition, it is also a decorative detail that gives aesthetics to the joints.

• The upper valley must be fixed with screws so that the fasteners for the metal tile do not pierce through the center of the lower valley.

If this happens, then the waterproofing layer will be broken. Between this element and the tile sheets, a self-expanding sealant must be laid.

1. On the installation of junctions on the breaks of the roof. Boards or timber battens on them should be as close as possible to each other.

The metal tile covering the fracture should protrude slightly above it, thereby closing it. As a mating element, you can use a cornice strip. Be sure to place a universal seal between the sheet and the plank.

If the kink is reversed, then you can also use the junction bar as a mating element. To do this, it must be laid with the rolling side on the lower slope.

1. Laying ridge bars. The air flows from the eaves to the roof ridge and out through the holes in the profiled sealing material.

Waterproofing in the space under the ridge has a gap along its entire length, with a width of at least 20 cm.

It is advisable to additionally lay the waterproofing film on a solid wooden flooring, so that it overlaps the lower waterproofing layer along the edges by at least 15 cm.

• Fasten the ridge in the upper ridge, through the wave, into the crate beam, on both sides, with special ridge screws.

From the ends, close this additional element with the plugs that are included in its package. If the ridge is semicircular, then it can be increased by overlapping stiffeners.

Additional elements for metal tiles

1. Installation of security elements. A tubular type snow guard must be mounted along the perimeter of the roof on the outer walls, so that the snow loads are distributed above the level of the eaves.

In places where the snow retainer is fixed, it is necessary to equip a solid wooden flooring.

• Snow guards must be installed above balconies, skylights, additional exits from the building and stairs without a canopy. If the length of the slope is more than 8 meters, then it is necessary to install an additional snow retainer.

If you know exactly how the metal tile is attached, and each element of the mounted roofing finish is assembled by you in compliance with the technology, then you can be sure that you will get beautiful and reliable protection from all atmospheric influences for the house under construction.

How to fasten metal tiles: scheme, rules, technology for fastening metal tiles with self-tapping screws

30) This article describes how to properly fix the metal tile. The scheme, rules, technology of fixing metal tiles with self-tapping screws are described.

If the tile covering is installed incorrectly, the service life of such a roof is significantly reduced. We propose to consider how the metal tile is fastened to the crate with self-tapping screws, the sheet installation scheme, and also how the end plank (wind) is installed.

The principle of installation of tiles

Installation of this roofing is carried out using standard construction screws. The use of nails is highly undesirable, because under shock loads, the layers of metal tiles disintegrate, which is why the building material is destroyed.

Photo - Metal tile installation system

Roofing screws are used to install corrugated board, boards, metal tiles and other materials. Outwardly, they are steel screws, often made of alloyed material. The surface of the screws is coated with a layer of zinc for better resistance to corrosion processes. The head of the screws has a hexagonal shape. Thanks to this geometry of the product, the load on the surface of the metal tile sheet is distributed evenly.

Photo - correct and incorrect fastening of metal tiles

A flat ring, a gasket, is necessarily located under the head. This part protects the roof surface from scratches and corrosion. Also, thanks to the gasket, cavities or dents do not form on the roof after the installation of the coating. Self-tapping screws can be selected with different metal alloy, color, head size and length. All these parameters must be agreed with the engineer who calculates the roof. But always pay special attention to the washers, they must be made of a durable rubber compound.

Photo - self-tapping screw for roofing

The shelf life of fasteners, like that of a metal tile, is within 50 years. In this case, it is very important to strictly monitor the gasket. If the washer is made of low-quality material, then the metal under it will begin to rust earlier than the time indicated by the manufacturer, which may damage the entire roof surface.

How to fasten

When you have already decided on the material and purchased fasteners, you can begin the installation of roofing material. In order to make the correct fastening of the metal tile on the roof with your own hands, you need to use advice professional builders:

1. Make sure that during fastening the washer is in a straight position, is not pinched and does not protrude upwards;
2. In order to evenly install the metal tile on the crate, you need to use landmarks. It is not convenient for everyone to mark the places for installing screws on each sheet; many professional builders advise navigating along the previous step of the metal tile. Departing from it a couple of centimeters, you will provide a simple and beautiful installation of the material;
3. Work with a screwdriver - this will greatly speed up the installation process;
4. Screw the screws into the lower parts of the wave; when installing fasteners on the ridge, you can not reach the crate with a screw, which will lead to a decrease in the rigidity of the roof;
5. The self-tapping screw must enter the roof frame by at least two centimeters. This is very important both for the rigidity of the surface and for its tightness. With this supply, you will close the holes into which the self-tapping screws with washers were screwed, and ensure the dryness of the under-roof space .;
6. Carefully check all the joints, otherwise, in gusts of wind, they will knock hard on the roof and may even come off and cause damage.

Instructions on how to fix a metal tile:

1. Install the first sheet of metal shingles exactly in relation to the end plank. It is along this part of the roof that alignment is made;
2. Then, using a screwdriver, connect the coating and the rafters. It is very important that the self-tapping screw enters the rafter board to a depth of 2 centimeters. To do this, choose screws with a length of 60 millimeters;
3. On any metal corrugated coating, you need to fasten up to 8 pieces of self-tapping screws. A smaller amount will increase the likelihood of a decrease in fastening strength, and a larger amount will significantly reduce rigidity;
4. Sheets of metal tiles are mounted in the direction from the base to the ridge or top of the lattice;
5. At the end of the work, treat the joints of the screws and the roofing with a special mastic. This will help protect them from corrosion if the surface of the metal tile is damaged. Before you buy such a tool, be sure to consult with sales consultants. Some types of paints and varnishes harm the polymer top layer of the tile, reducing its resistance to aggressive external factors.

There are several secrets that help with the installation of metal tiles. For example, for the perfect evenness of the cornice strip, it is important to mount the very first row of sheets with high quality. It is from its geometric accuracy that the parallelism of other sheets depends.

The fastening points of the metal tile should be at right angles to the roof. Such a scheme helps to ensure the tightness and durability of the connection. Also, thanks to such connections, a jagged surface (cascade) is formed along the runs, which prevents snow from falling from the roof surface.

Hidden mount

Nowadays, metal tiles with a hidden lock are also used quite often, for example, Monterrey. It is considered more aesthetic, but the process is more laborious. For such an installation, a special metal tile is required, which is equipped with special holders.

Photo - Metal tile with hidden fastening

The procedure for fixing a metal tile with a hidden connection:

1. Install the holders on the crate, which will serve as a support for the sheets of tiles. They need to be mounted on the very first beam of the eaves. The optimal step of the holder along the rafters is 250 mm;
2. Now, without using additional screws, hook the sheet of metal on the holder and lightly press it until it clicks. With the correct location of the first row, the rest will not need to fit or align;
3. To install further coverage, you will need self-tapping screws. They need to be fixed on the roof in special places, indicated by depressions on sheets of metal tiles;
4. After that comes a row of tiles, which is fastened with special Z-locks. They are located in designated areas, their location is marked with special marks that you can find in the instructions for a particular brand of roofing;
5. After that, the standard fastening of the ridge of the metal tile is carried out.

Photo - Metal tile with z-lock lock

It should be noted that this method of installing the coating on the roof is more practical and safer than the standard installation with self-tapping screws. The minimum use of bolts can significantly extend the life of the roof, provide the necessary rigidity and strength of the coating. The sale of such materials is carried out in company stores.

With this installation option, the accuracy of fastening the wooden windshield of the metal tile is also very important. It is worth remembering that before starting roofing work, it is necessary to install gutters for weirs and other elements of the drain. For the beauty of the facades, we advise you to close the open space from below with planks after the completion of work.

Photo - snow guards on the roof

But at the same time, the fastening of snow retainers to the metal tile is carried out after the sheets are installed. The technology is simple: in certain places you need to make holes in the roof, and then install additional elements on it with a screwdriver. So you can install roofing material on the roof of a house, garage or veranda.

The scheme of fastening the metal tile to the crate and how to properly fasten the roof with self-tapping screws to avoid leakage?

Of the large number of known roofing materials, metal tiles stand out for their durability, practicality and attractive appearance. Covering the roof with metal tiles significantly changes the appearance of the building, giving the house a solid and elegant look.

It is made of steel (rarely - from aluminum or copper) with a thickness of about half a millimeter, which is why the weight of the roof is significantly reduced - compared to slate - by 2 times. Material has a double degree of anti-corrosion coating- galvanization and a polymer layer that reliably preserves the metal for a large amount of time.

Along with the coating, all the necessary additional elements are made - roof ridges, eaves and window corners, valleys, gutters, etc. Several color options are available, the dimensions and profile pattern of different manufacturers differ from each other, which makes it possible to choose the most attractive option.

In this article, you will learn how to properly screw the metal tile and how to fix the metal tile on the roof of a private house.

What is a crate and its installation

For the correct installation of metal tiles, it is necessary to build a crate, which is a wooden substrate in the form of a lattice or a continuous layer. The crate performs several functions:

• Provides fasteners metal tiles
• Forms the necessary ventilation gap, excluding wetting of roofing materials from condensate.
• Creates an even plane, compensating for possible irregularities in the truss system, which contributes to the normal installation of sheets and ensures maximum service life.

Two ways of docking sheets

Fastening metal tiles with self-tapping screws begins with the preparation of roofing sheets. Sheets of metal tiles are joined overlapping on the width of one wave. It can be done in two ways: from left to right and vice versa.

The difference is that in the first case, each subsequent sheet is slipped over the previous one, and in the second, it is superimposed on top of it. The choice of one method or another is dictated by the convenience of work, the type of roof or other considerations and has no effect on the result.

Most often, both methods are used when working, where it is more convenient.

When joining sheets between rows, they cannot be staggered, each sheet should be located strictly above the bottom. An exception may be a single inclusion of a sheet fragment when filling, for example, the slope of a hipped roof or similar areas.

how to fix metal tiles on the roof with self-tapping screws: photo

All sheets, in addition to fastening to the crate, must be attached to each other short self-tapping screws along the joint line to ensure a tight connection and prevent wind from penetrating under the sheet, which can tear it off.

How to fix the metal tile along the cornice line?

Most often, the cornice line is covered with a sheet of metal. about 5 cm. Such an overhang allows water to roll directly into the gutter, eliminating the possibility of contact with the wooden parts of the truss system.

At the same time, in some cases it is necessary to place the edge of the sheet above the cornice board, which is caused by difficult installation conditions, the presence of steps or other violations of the geometry of the cornice. With this fastening, water comes off the cornice corner, which is somewhat worse than the first method, but quite acceptable.

Fixing the cover along the frame line

The gutter and eaves corner are installed before mounting the sheets to ensure proper water flow.

Fastening the metal tile to the crate with self-tapping screws

How to properly fix the metal tile with screws to the crate? When installing sheets, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the material.

The fact is that the polymer coating is quite breaks easily when bent or punched, which significantly weakens the protection of the sheet.

One galvanized layer will not be able to protect the metal for a long time, corrosion will begin and the sheet will fail. Therefore, it is important to correctly adjust the pressing force of the sheet to the crate. The fastening of the metal tile to the crate is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. To calculate the approximate number of screws, you can use the following rule: 9-10 self-tapping screws are needed per 1 square meter of roofing.
2. If during the laying process the paintwork of the metal tile was damaged, then the chipped area should be carefully painted over with anti-corrosion paint of the same color.
3. If the self-tapping screw is not screwed deep enough, the rubber gasket will not fit tightly to the sheet, which will cause a gap into which water will penetrate. Too much screwing will push through the material, the coating will peel off and the sheet will begin to rust. The way out of this situation can be the use of a screwdriver with a given screwing force, or constant monitoring of the depth of immersion of the self-tapping screw.

Installation of metal tiles around pipes or other obstacles

The scheme for attaching a metal tile is quite simple, but there are moments that should be discussed separately. All protruding elements of the roof must be lined around the perimeter with an additional row of lathing, receding from them by 20 cm. This is necessary to install a corner that overlaps the joint.

Depending on the location of an element, you may need to production of specially cut sheet, corresponding to the size of the remaining space or reaching the next sheet, located in a regular way. For example, such an option can be used to form a skylight drain.

Proper bypass of the pipe with metal tiles

Manufacturers produce parts that correspond to all elements of the roof - internal and external corners, ridges, valleys, gutters, etc. Almost all of them have a single installation requirement - the presence of an additional bar in the crate to which they will actually be attached.

The location of the screws is determined by the size of the element, or according to the rule - at least 3 pieces per linear meter. The requirements for screwing force are the same as for sheets - control and inadmissibility of punching.

Common Mounting Mistakes

1. Sheets of metal tiles are quite thin. You can only walk on them in soft shoes, stepping on the lower points of the wave at the locations of the laths of the crate.
2. It is impossible to allow the self-tapping screw to turn when screwing, from this the adhesion force with wood is reduced many times over.
3. Installation of a pitched roof can be started on the right or left, as it is more convenient, but if the roof is hipped, the installation starts exactly in the middle, for the symmetry of the design of the slopes.
4. Self-tapping screws must be twisted strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, otherwise there will be a dented area on the side of the slope.
5. Usually, detailed installation instructions are attached to the purchased metal tile. It is recommended to carefully study it, since all types of material have their own characteristics, they must be known and taken into account during installation.

fixing metal tiles with self-tapping screws: diagram and tips

Fixing a metal tile is not so much a complicated process as it requires attention and certain knowledge. Before starting work, it is necessary to understand in detail all aspects of the issue, prepare materials and tools. Now you know how to fix the metal tile on the roof and you can use the knowledge gained when installing the roof.

Self-mounting of metal tiles will be successful only when a person clearly understands all the stages of work and understands the sequence and rules for installing all elements. Then the service life of the roof will be maximum and will not require repairs or alterations.

Fastening a metal tile to a crate: a scheme for fastening a roof using self-tapping screws

Everything about fastening metal tiles to the crate: the correct scheme for attaching roofing sheets to the crate using self-tapping screws, how to properly screw the metal tile to the base and how to fix the coating on the roof without leaks.

Roofing works using metal tiles have their own subtleties. In order for the roof to serve for a long time and reliably, you need to familiarize yourself with the technology of each process in advance and carefully adhere to it. If you follow the instructions, installing a Monterrey metal tile with your own hands will not cause any difficulties even for a novice master. The roofing process consists of two main stages - the preparation of the base and the laying of the coating.

It is necessary to prepare very thoroughly for laying the finish coating. First check the shape of the roof slopes, because if the truss system has distortions, the roof will not hold firmly.

The check is made as follows: measure the width and length of the slope on each side of the building with a tape measure, remove irregularities with the help of additional elements. Be sure to check the level of the location of the ridge and the cornice relative to the horizontal to avoid deflections of the roof. When replacing the coating, the truss system is checked in the same way.

If the slopes are normal, proceed to the next step - laying waterproofing. For waterproofing, roofing material and a special microperforated film are best suited. The hydrobarrier is laid horizontally, starting from the eaves; strips of material overlap by 15-25 cm. It is impossible to stretch the material: the film should sag between the rafters by 1.5-2 cm, but at the same time not touch the insulation located under the crate.

The next step is the installation of a counter-lattice, which should provide ventilation between the metal tile and the waterproofing film. If the roofing is fixed close to the waterproofing, the protruding condensate will accumulate inside the structure, which will lead to decay and destruction of the rafters.

To make a counter-lattice you will need:

• dry dense timber with a section of 30x50 mm;
• galvanized nails;
• hammer;
• hacksaw or jigsaw;
• roulette;
• antiseptic primer.

If the slopes have a slope of less than 30 degrees or a roof of complex shape, the bars should be chosen with a larger section, for example, 50x50 mm.

The quality of wood plays an important role, therefore, before installation, you should make sure that the material is well dried, has no voids, and is not curved. It is worth paying attention to the color of the bars: gray sections or dark spots on the surface indicate improper storage of lumber, which reduces its service life.

The length of the beam should be approximately 130-140 cm; to make the design look neat, the bars are cut into equal segments before installation. Then the tree is treated with an antiseptic and dried. Such treatment prolongs the operation of the structure, prevents the development of fungi, and repels insects. After the timber has dried, you can proceed with the installation.

Using galvanized nails, the beams are nailed to the rafters over the waterproofing membrane. For Monterrey metal tiles, the step of the counter-lattice is 30 cm; start fastening from the eaves. The arrangement of the roof ridge requires the intersection of the bars from different sides of the slope at one point, so they are cut down at a certain angle. To correctly calculate this angle, you need to take measurements with a special rail with a frame and a pendulum. This tool is called an inclinometer and is used in the arrangement of truss systems.

For a gable roof, the counter-lattice is made the same on both sides with a uniform step of 30 cm. If the configuration is more complex and the slopes form internal corners at the joints, the bars are mounted differently. The inner corner of the roofing system is called the valley; this area experiences more loads than the rest of the roof, as rain and melt water flows down it, more snow accumulates, and the sun heats up more. To avoid leaks or collapse, the installation of the valley must be carried out strictly according to the technology.

The counter-lattice is nailed to the longitudinal bars of the valley in increments of no more than 10 cm; it is also impossible to fasten the beam close to the flooring of the valley - this will impair ventilation and make it difficult to remove condensate.

An important point: when driving nails, holes are formed in the waterproofing film, which violates its tightness. To avoid the penetration of moisture in the valleys, the consumption of nails per square meter should not exceed 10 pieces.

Manufacturing of crates

The roofing must be attached to the batten, so the next step is to sheathing of the counter-lattice with boards. They take boards 100 mm wide and 30 mm thick, and for attaching the bottom row, the thickness must be at least 45 mm. After trimming, the material is treated with an antiseptic and dried.

Do not use wet boards, as after drying they can be deformed. The first board is laid from the eaves, the next one is fixed 30 cm higher. All subsequent nails are nailed in increments corresponding to the distance between the waves of the metal tile. For example, if Monterrey Maxi or Lux metal tiles are used, the distance between the boards is 40 cm, for Monterrey Standard the lathing pitch is 35 cm. In the valleys and at the exit of the chimney pipes, the lathing is mounted solid.

Now you need fix the finished valleys in the inner corners, laying them with an overlap of 10 cm, and around the chimneys there are internal aprons on the junction strips. The last to fix are the eaves and end strips with a protrusion of 4 cm. To do this, a board is nailed to the ends of the rafters and the end strips are attached to it, overlapping them by 7-10 cm. Hooks for a drain are screwed onto the cornice board, and then the cornice strip is mounted. At this preparatory stage is considered complete, you can proceed to the sheathing of the roof.

To install the Monterrey metal tile, you will need:

• sheets of metal;
• metal scissors;
• hammer and screwdriver;
• flat rail or rule;
• marker.

It is impossible to cut a metal tile with a grinder, since the abrasive layer destroys the protective coating, and the material corrodes.

Sheets are laid vertically, starting from the eaves. For installation, it is recommended to use sheets whose length is not more than 4 m. If you take short sheets, many butt joints are formed during installation, and the reliability of the coating will be lower; Mounting very large pieces of material is difficult and inconvenient.

The horizontal direction when laying the metal tile does not matter much. With left-sided fastening, adjacent sheets must be placed under the previous row by 15 cm; with right-sided laying, the edges of the next sheet are mounted on top of those fixed at the same distance. The protective film must be removed immediately before the installation of the metal tile, it will be difficult to do this after the installation is completed.

The first sheet is laid on the lower edge of the crate so that it protrudes 5 cm down, then it is carefully leveled and fixed with just one self-tapping screw at the top. Next, the next sheet is overlapped on top, leveled and screwed to the bottom. It is not necessary to screw the coating to the crate yet. Having fixed another 1 or 2 sheets in a similar way, the resulting vertical block is aligned with the cornice and end strips, and then screwed to the crate. Self-tapping screws should be located in deflections through one wave in a checkerboard pattern; be sure to use self-tapping screws with special rubber washers to fix the coating. 8 screws are required per square meter of metal roofing.

In places where the roofing adjoins vertical surfaces, it is necessary to use special strips, and an external apron is additionally installed around the chimney. After fixing the last sheet on the roof, snow holders and accessories for roof ladders are installed. If there are open sections, it is recommended to paint over them with any suitable paint.

Video - Do-it-yourself installation of Monterrey metal tiles

Today, metal tiles have become one of the most popular materials used as roofing. It has earned its popularity due to its durability, strength, reasonable cost and excellent appearance. In addition, mounting it is quite simple if you know the basic rules that must be followed. At the same time, fastening a metal tile is one of the most important operations that determine the reliability of the entire structure in the future.

What you need to know before you get started

How to properly fix sheets of metal to the crate

The crate itself is a construction of wooden boards of the same size, which is mounted at the same distance from each other (it must match the step of the metal tile used). The boards located under the ridge and at the eaves most often have a large thickness without maintaining the required distance between the boards on the slope.

In the process of fastening sheets of material on the roof slope, it is necessary to tighten the screws along the line located 10-15 mm lower from the stamping line between the ridges. In the event that the crate was made correctly, in full accordance with all the diagrams and instructions, the screws can be screwed into any regular place, since there must be a board there. For greater confidence that everything is being done correctly, it is worth watching a video on the topic (even if the work will not be done on your own).

Metal on the boards is always laid without a technological gap, so the sheets of metal tiles will be guaranteed to be pressed to the crate with high reliability without material deformation. It is worth noting that the fasteners will not be noticeable, as they will always be in the shadow of such a "step".

Two ways of docking sheets

During installation, it is possible to use several effective methods for joining individual sheets of metal tiles: in waves or in rows. In the first case, the tasks of protecting the plane of the roofing material from side wind and uniformity and "integrity" of the appearance of the slope are solved. In this case, all self-tapping screws must be twisted in each of the rows below the stamping line, in the sector from the crest to the outer edge of the top sheet.

If docking is performed in rows, according to the installation instructions, it is done on the boards of the step crate (fasteners are placed on the boards in each wave). When it comes to the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope, the fasteners are distributed evenly. In this case, the movement is carried out from the cornice to the ridge, and fixation is carried out in every third wave with a shift in any direction by one wave of the sheet, when there is a transition to the next row to continue fastening.

How to fasten sheets along the cornice line

The formation of a cornice assembly with a sheet protruding beyond the edge (by about 50 mm) is used especially often today. In this case, all water after rain falls directly into the gutter, so the wooden structural elements remain reliably protected from splashes, which has a significant impact on their durability. Self-tapping screws in this case, according to the instructions, must be screwed in through one wave 70 mm above the stamping line.

It is important to consider: so that the lower waves do not sag down, with this method, it is necessary to attach it to a board of greater thickness than the rest by 15-20 mm. The distance between the centers of the first stepping board and the eaves board, with a width of 100 mm, will be 250 mm.

Also, this node can be formed so that the regular cut of the metal tile is located on top of the cornice board (in this case, rainwater will fall into the gutters directly from it). Most often, this method is resorted to in some situations that are difficult for roofers, when it comes to stepped cornices or violations of the geometry of the roof in this area.

Approach to the ridge: fixing the metal tile

At the top of the structure, the batten always ends with a ridge support board. When performing this operation, the installation of an additional ridge board is required, thus providing a gap of 80 mm between the same boards of adjacent slopes, which plays an important role in organizing roof ventilation.

An effective way to bring the ridge plank to the end of the entire structure over the planks is to install a support board, which is 15-20 mm thicker than other sheathing materials used for roof construction.

This is the only way to avoid the "drawdown" of the roof ridge in relation to the line of the end plank.

The fastening of the spinal (ridge) strip is carried out with self-tapping screws at the highest points of the roofing material. The distance between the fasteners is up to 0.8 m. At the same time, it is worth noting that all fixation points will be located at an equal distance from the roof sheathing, therefore, when tightening the screws, there will be no deformation of the ridge bar.

Fastening at the end of the slope

First of all, it is necessary to fix sheets of metal tiles along the end lines of the roof slopes in each wave of material in regular places. Then, in order to fix the end bar, you need to fix it to the highest points of each of the sheets through one wave of material. The step between the bindings, as in the approach to the ridge, is no more than 0.8 m.

In these places, the fasteners will be noticeable, so it is advisable to clearly observe equal distances between them (it is best to mark up first).

When additional fastening with self-tapping screws is required

The main task in this case is to resist the design of wind loads. In this regard, it is necessary to provide increased reliability of fastening in the following areas:

1. sheets of metal tiles between each other when applying the method of fastening:
   • by waves (1);
   • by rows (2).
2. sheets to the crate:
   • along the cornice line (3);
   • along the ridge line (4).
3. along the end line (5) sheets are fixed on the boards.

The same information is presented more clearly in the video, where you can more clearly learn about all the intricacies of the issue.

1. There is a way to make your job a lot easier! Follow the rule: if the work is started from the left edge of the structure, all sheets attached to it must be brought under the wave of the previous sheet of material.
2. After the first sheet is fixed to the ridge with a self-tapping screw, the second must be laid in such a way that a perfectly even line is obtained at the bottom. The overlap is fixed with one self-tapping screw along the crest of the wave, under the first transverse fold.
3. In the case when the top row of the skate does not turn out perfect the first time, you need to follow the following instructions:
   • slightly raise the sheet of metal;
   • gradually tilt the sheet from the bottom up, laying the sheets one by one in the desired position;
   • fasten along the top of the ridges under the transverse folds;
   • attach the sheets to the crate (the operations are quite simple, but it’s easier to see the entire process described on the video).
4. The installation of sealing tapes is necessary at the ridge and at the joints of the roof surfaces with a tent shape. They are nailed to the profile, and then the ridge or protected joint is covered with a bar. If waterproofing material was used, additional seals are not required.
5. In places with through holes and overlaps, a special sealing compound (usually silicone) is used.
6. Ridge: the bar is installed only after the completion of all work on fastening sheets on all surfaces.
7. Fastening metal tiles in the places of internal joints, it is recommended to use a plank for the groove of a standard design. In this case, an overlap of more than 150 mm is not allowed, the resulting seam must be sealed.

Not only causes discomfort, but also causes significant harm to health. High humidity under the roof space is fraught with the appearance of fungus on the walls. And if the water on the roof is constantly collected, then this can lead to damage to the electrical wiring and the collapse of the walls. The most annoying thing is that to fix these problems, the roof usually has to be completely disassembled and reinstalled. Therefore, even if the installation of the roof is carried out by a specially hired team of professionals, it is better for the building owner to be familiar with the basic principles of proper roofing in order to be sure of the quality of the work performed.

The metal tile roof is aesthetically pleasing, as well as strong enough and durable to use.

At present, they are widely used. There is a logical explanation for this - a large number of advantages. Strength, economy, reliability, lightness of the product, ease of installation, presentable design, variety of colors, long service life, resistance to mechanical damage and temperature changes - all this is ensured with proper installation of this material. Proper fastening of metal tiles on the roof is a reliable, economical and durable protection for a new home.

Calculation of the amount of material for a roof made of metal

Before installation, it is necessary to carefully measure the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof.

A metal tile sheet has two units of width: common and useful. To calculate the number of rows along the horizontal slope, it is necessary to divide the maximum horizontal length of the slope by the useful width of the sheet. Round up the result. This calculation takes into account the horizontal overlap of the rows. The total length of the sheets in a row consists of the sum of three components: the length of the slope from the top to the bottom, the overhang from the eaves and the vertical overlap of the sheets. The overhang is done to prevent water from getting under the roof sheet in strong winds and is usually taken equal to 5 cm. The vertical overlap of the sheets is usually 15 cm. In order to calculate the required number of sheets, you need to divide their total length by the useful width of one sheet.

The number of rolls of hydro and vapor barrier is calculated by dividing the total, taking into account overlaps of 15-20 cm, by the area of ​​the material in the roll. The recommended insulation thickness for central Russia is 20 cm. To calculate the required number of additional elements, you need to add the lengths of the sides of the slopes for each type of plank (the usual length of the additional elements is 2 m) and divide by 1.9, taking into account the horizontal overlap of 10 cm. When calculating the lower valley, you need to divide the length by 1.7, since the required horizontal overlap here is 30 cm. All results are rounded up. To calculate how many self-tapping screws are needed, we multiply the value of the total roof area by 8. When calculating the number of self-tapping screws for additional elements, we also multiply the sum of the lengths of all strips by 8.

Scheme of installation of metal tiles

Roof laying scheme

1. Fastening of the cornice (frontal) board and hooks for the gutter system.
2. Laying the lower valley.
3. Installation of internal junctions of slopes to walls and protruding elements.
4. Fixing of sheets of a covering.
5. Laying the upper valley.
6. Upper installation.
7. Fastening end elements.
8. Fasteners for external corners and ridge battens.

Each stage of installation is carried out exactly in the sequence in which it is indicated in the diagram. Next, we will study all the stages in more detail.

Fastening the cornice (frontal) board and hooks for the drain

First, a few words about the truss system. The correct calculation of the truss system is a guarantee of the durability of the roof. You should carefully calculate the cross section and. Given the lightness of the material, the distance between the rafters can be from 600 to 900 mm. should be 100x50mm or 150x50mm. For additional ventilation, small holes should be drilled at a distance of 30 cm from each other in the upper part of the roof on the side of the rafters.

Before installation, the bars must be treated with antiseptic and refractory agents without fail.

After erection, they are checked for squareness (the dimensions of the diagonals of the roof slopes are compared), horizontality and flatness. For a quick drain of moisture, it is 14º (the scheme for installing the slope must correspond to the expression: the length of the slope exceeds the height of the roof by no more than 4 times).

Fastening is carried out with special screws, the durability of the entire structure also depends on them.

A cornice board is installed in specially sawn grooves in the rafters, which gives rigidity to the structure. The second option for stiffening the structure is to install a frontal board, which is attached to the end of the rafters with galvanized nails in increments of 30 cm. Siding, corrugated board, spotlights are used for filing, leaving ventilation gaps. The gaps are closed with a fine-mesh grating so that insects and birds do not get into the under-roof space.

Long hooks are used to fasten the gutters of the drainage system for greater strength and reliability. Correctly install them up to the eaves board or rafters. The pitch of the hooks should be equal to the pitch of the rafters. Grooves are cut out in the bars, where the base of the hook is inserted, which is then fastened with self-tapping screws on top and at the end of the rafters. If the metal tile is already installed, short hooks are used that are attached to the frontal board. Next, the eaves plank is attached. To prevent vibration in the wind, the bar must be fixed in an interference fit. In this case, the overlap should be 5-10 cm. It is fixed with galvanized self-tapping screws in increments of 30 cm.

Laying the lower valley and internal junctions

In places where the slopes join, it is necessary to lay valleys. Under the lower valleys, a continuous flooring is made of boards measuring 15 × 2.5 cm by 30-40 cm on both sides of the docking line. Waterproofing must be laid on the resulting wooden gutter. The valley is fixed with screws in increments of 30 cm and an overlap of 10 cm is given. A porous sealant is laid between the metal tiles and the lower valley, preferably self-adhesive.

Sheets of metal tiles are light enough, so it will be easy for him to mount on his own.

For the most hermetic adjoining of the coating to the walls or protruding elements (chimneys, ventilation openings, etc.), an internal apron is installed on the roof slope. It consists of a lower junction bar, which is applied to the corner of the slope and the wall (or protruding structure). Its lower edge is fastened with roofing screws.

A strob is made along the upper edge of the plank with a depth of at least 1.5 cm and an upward slope, where the upper part of the plank is inserted and sealed. In the inner apron, it is correct to make a 15-centimeter overlap. Waterproofing at the junction is removed and rises up the wall by at least 5 cm. It must be heat resistant. A flat sheet is laid under the bottom of the apron for a convenient drain of atmospheric moisture. It goes to the roofing cornice or valley. A border is made along the edge of the tie.

Metal tile fastening technology

A sheet of metal tiles is fastened with special roofing screws, and the service life of the entire roof largely depends on the quality of the self-tapping screws. Roofing screws are galvanized hex screws with a drill on the tip and a sealing washer. The sealant of high-quality self-tapping screws consists of ethylene-propylene rubber, which does not lose its properties for quite a long time. Ordinary rubber dries out and becomes brittle after three to four years under the influence of temperature differences and ultraviolet radiation.

Properly fasten the sheet with screws at the bottom of each wave, where the metal fits snugly against the wooden crate. The screwing length of the screws is at least 2 cm, they must be screwed strictly perpendicular to the crate into the central part of the bar so that the sealant hermetically fills the gap between the screw head and the sheet of metal. The recommended length of self-tapping screws is 28 mm.

Three main rules for mounting sheets:

1. Roof laying should start from the lower left corner of the roof.
2. Sheets are attached from the bottom up so that the top sheet overlaps the bottom one.
3. The first sheet should be laid exactly along the cornice line.

Laying of the upper valley, external junction strips and end elements

The upper valley is designed to drain water from the inner corner of the junction of two slopes. You need to fasten it to the coating with screws in such a way as not to drill through the center of the lower valley. To do this, a self-expanding sealant is placed between this element and the sheet. The upper junction bar is installed in exactly the same way as the lower one, only its upper edge is attached directly to the wall. When adjoining the end of the wall, a universal seal is used, on the side - a profile seal.

The end plate protects the roof from wind and loosening of its nodes, as well as wooden elements and insulation from moisture. Waterproofing is laid on top of the end board, which is fixed with an end plate. It is installed from the eaves to the ridge, fastened to the end beam with self-tapping screws in increments of 50-60 cm in a 10-centimeter overlap. The end bar must necessarily overlap the upper crest of the wave. This will prevent water from getting under the metal tiles. To do this, you can bend the edges of the sheet up.

Fixing external corners and ridge battens

In case of roof breaks, it is very important not to interrupt the waterproofing. The boards of the crate at a break should be as close as possible to each other. The cover sheet should protrude slightly and cover the fracture. The cornice bar is used here as a mating element. A universal seal is laid between the tile sheets and the plank, as well as between the ridge and the sheets. It protects against penetration of precipitation, leaves and insects.

Air flows passing from the eaves to the ridge must exit through the holes in the profile seal. The waterproofing under the ridge must have a gap of 20 cm along the entire length of the ridge. To strengthen the waterproofing barrier, you can lay an additional waterproofing film on a solid wooden crate that overlaps the lower part of the main waterproofing by more than 15 cm. The ends of the ridge are closed with plugs included in the kit. The rigidity of the semicircular ridge is enhanced by overlapping ribs.

After completion of installation work, construction debris should be removed from the roof. The metal sheet in places of cuts and scratches must be tinted. Twice a year, the roof surface is cleaned of leaves, branches and dirt. This will protect the metal from corrosion and extend its service life.