Why are trees pruned? How to properly prune trees

For a novice gardener, there is always an acute problem when to prune trees in the garden, because such a procedure is one of the most effective ways to increase the yield of fruits, protect against pests and manipulation, which significantly increases the life of the plant. If you approach the solution of this problem responsibly, you can correctly form the crown of a tree, which will give it an aesthetic appearance and ensure the flow of oxygen and solar heat to each individual branch, and this will positively affect the number of fruits grown. In addition, pruning eliminates the chance that the trees will start to grow in width and height.

The best time for this is in the fall or spring. If the gardener is lazy, then his trees threaten to overgrow with foliage, which leads to a decrease in the size of the fruits on them. On the other hand, if pruned too fanatically, then the fruiting time will increase due to the fact that the abundance of remote branches negatively affects the maturation of the plant itself. Therefore, everyone needs to know how to properly prune trees and when to do it.

Trimming types

Experienced gardeners know that pruning is different, and each of them has a specific purpose.

Here are the most popular ones:

1. Pruning immediately after planting. It is carried out in order to achieve harmony between the roots of a young plant, if they are damaged, and the aerial part, which is intact. At right approach contributes to the fact that the root takes root in the planted soil faster.
2. Shortening pruning. Prevents uncontrolled growth of branches in different sides, and also allows you to balance between branches of the same order. It has a positive effect on branching and allows you to cut fruit trees so as to most effectively form their future crown.
3. Wellness pruning. The main goal is to remove withered, infected or deformed branches. If it is clearly seen that they are sick, they are eliminated with a small amount of healthy wood so that the disease does not progress further. Then the removed branches are burned. crop fruit trees recommended, starting with a healthy cleaning of the crown, and only then move on to other branches, starting from that appearance, which is imagined by the gardener.
4. supportive. It consists in shortening too large branches, as well as those that grow in the wrong direction (down or inward). This gives the tree an additional flow of air and does not allow it to grow randomly, in different directions.

Having become acquainted with each of the methods of how cropping can be done garden trees, the gardener can navigate how much each individual tree needs it.

The effect of pruning on the condition and fruiting of a tree

In some way, each pruning is stressful for the plant, but it can be used to regulate the fruiting time and the overall development of the tree trunk. Remember, every coin has two sides, for example, if you eliminate branches that grow in the wrong direction and add excessive density to the crown, while not applying the shortening of the annual growth, then this strategy will significantly speed up the time when the tree begins to bear fruit. Especially when compared with instances to which such methods were not applied. However, this is fraught with the fact that the crown will be ankle and unstable, and the branches will be characterized by slack and a short life interval, which differs little from a completely uncircumcised representative of the flora.

Not experienced gardeners often they sin when pruning by greatly shortening the branches. If in a young and actively growing walnut one-year-old growths are shortened a lot and without any reason, this will lead to unnecessary crown density and a delayed start of fruiting. If the variety is characterized by fruits at the very end of long branches, then fanatical shortening will lead to a significant reduction in the number of fruits. In addition, you should know that thoughtless pruning reduces cold tolerance in winter time. Strong pruning justifies itself only if the plant is young, but its growth is weak.

It should be borne in mind that if you combine tenderloin with a slight or medium pruning of one-year-old growth, then this will slightly delay (by a maximum of 2 years) fruiting during the first couple of crops, but not their level as a whole. The advantages of this will be a superbly folded crown, which is distinguished by its strength, in addition, the branches will be more stable, and the fruits on them will be larger.

If the gardener wants to ensure that the fruits are consistently large, it is necessary to intensively prune the annual growth every year, however, take into account that total harvest from a particular tree will decrease significantly. In such trees, the crown becomes dense, you have to spend a lot of time eliminating unnecessary branches that will weaken the yield potential.

Novice gardeners are interested in how to prune each specific tree, because the methods differ depending not only on the species, but also on the variety. For example, when pruning walnuts, mulberries and grapes, most often only dried shoots that interfere with growth are eliminated. Each vine requires active and painstaking attention. Pruning of stone fruits (cherries, cherries, apricots) begins with fruit-bearing specimens in order to be in time before the awakening of stone buds, which wake up earlier than vegetative ones.

One-year-old growths (last year's shoots) must be pruned every year or at least every other year. Combining cutting and pruning, you can achieve that the crown will be neat and strong. In the process of pruning growths, moderation is needed, otherwise young trees will lose their fruitfulness in the formation of unnecessary skeletal branches that jam the fruit branches. It is also fraught with the fact that next season the gardener will have to fiddle more with pruning extra branches, fearing that they will thicken the crown and reduce cold tolerance.

It should be remembered that intensive pruning is only necessary if it is necessary to weaken individual branches that begin to compete with conductors or potentially interfere with other smaller branches. Do not prune branches that have regained a horizontal position after the garter; cutting should also be avoided in cases where it concerns powerful intermediate branches that are in a horizontal position. If you do not follow these rules, then the gardener will absolutely unreasonably delay the appearance of fruits on cut branches and reduce their number.

Pruning of such representatives of the garden flora as pears and apple trees must be started from mid-spring, trying to be in time before the juice begins to circulate. If the growth from last year reaches the size of half a meter and looks healthy, then this is good and nothing needs to be touched. If they barely got to the 18-20 cm mark, then you need to start by looking for a problem that affects general state plants. For example, the reason for this may be branches that come from a tree trunk at sharp angles. Remember that the tree should have one top, and boldly eliminate them.

Skeletal branches, if overtaking each other in growth, can become a potential problem in the future, so they should be cut in tiers. Count so that one tier is 16 cm lower than the previous one. When finished with pruning, switch to one-year-old shoots, they must be cut by about a third of the length so that there are no difficulties with branching in the future.

A special approach is required for those trees that form a crown in the form of a pyramid. When pruning, try not to touch the topmost kidney, most often located on the outside. If the tree is sprawling, then, on the contrary, a kidney is left on the inside. The powerful branches of the pyramidal tree are directed outward when cut. Those branches that grow at an acute angle are eliminated almost under the base, in extreme cases, leave 20 cm shoots, under the "stump".

Trimming time

Beginners and experienced gardeners alike are often confused about when is the best time to prune trees. You need to understand that the processes that trees are exposed to in autumn and spring are completely different. In particular, if circumcision occurs in the spring, then this stimulates vegetative processes. If in summer time, then this contributes to the laying of shoots and allows the branches to ripen better. Traditions say that the ideal time comes with the beginning of spring (March-April), but for some decorative types it's detrimental.

spring/summer pruning

The last ten days of February and the first of March are the optimal time to start sanitary pruning. It contributes to the development of shoots and is in harmony with the rhythms by which plants live.

If you cut it in the first decade of June, when summer is just coming into its own, then you need to focus on taking into account a couple of important features.

1. This slows down the vegetative processes, and pruning of individual branches can last until the last decade of August.
2. In general, expect that the more you prune now, the less you will have to prune in the future.
3. Pruning is done only after the trees have already faded, or the movement of juice is completed (for cherries, mulberries, grapes). Remember that pruning affects the tree less if it is covered with leaves: then injuries heal faster.

The time of pruning fruit trees, for example, pear and apple, is most favorable in the spring, when the temperature during the day exceeds 0ºС. Plum and peach, on the contrary, it is better not to touch at this time, as the risk that they will start to hurt increases. Work on them can begin during the appearance of the first buds or leaf blooming. In extreme cases, pruning is quite possible to transfer to the summer.

Apricots are best cut in the summer, because this makes it possible to determine exactly which type of procedure will be optimal. In addition, pruning carried out in an atmosphere of settled heat will increase the frost resistance of trees and give immunity to temperature changes.

If the gardener found that the tree did not endure the winter well, then pruning should begin no earlier than May-June, if the damage from the cold is minor, then it is permissible to process it immediately, thereby stimulating their growth.

autumn pruning

Experienced gardeners note that cutting in the fall negatively affects most trees. First of all, this applies to cherries, pears and plums. Without great need, they should not be disturbed during this period, it is better to transfer all work to the spring.

Young trees are also very sensitive to autumn pruning, to the point that a fragile plant may disappear. If a one-year-old growth is cut off, the risk increases that the place of the cut will freeze, capturing the nearby area. Of course, the wound will not be able to quickly and efficiently heal, which will lead to problems in the future.

Most often, autumn is used as a time aimed exclusively at sanitary pruning. Winter, with its cold weather, is the time that the tree is best met without aggravating damage. If the plant is seriously damaged, then there is little chance that it will survive the cold time. Most often, the buds that remained on the shortened branches of a young plant do not open with the advent of spring. It is important to know that pruning in autumn is possible only if the air temperature does not exceed -5ºС.

Finally, we can add that proper pruning will significantly increase the yield of fruits obtained, the plant itself will become stronger and healthier, and the gardener will be happy elegant look of his site.

Pruning fruit trees- a complex event that is held in the garden in November. Sometimes it is very difficult to understand, especially for a beginner, how to prune fruit trees and when to prune.

Let's consider in detail: how to prune fruit trees for beginners, where to start, when and how to prune trees, step by step description with photos and videos.

In late October - early November, all work in the garden and in the garden should already be completed: perennial flowers and shrubs are cut and covered for the winter, the water is turned off, inventory is removed for storage - you can safely wait for the next season.

But this is not so, because autumn is the time for pruning fruit trees and shrubs, and is usually carried out before the onset of the first night frosts, when the foliage begins to turn yellow.

Firstly, the growing season is over, and pruning will not provoke the growth of new shoots, juice will not flow through the wounds, since sap flow has ended. When compared with winter pruning of trees, then the wounds left from autumn pruning, will not freeze, and peeling of the bark will not occur at the cut points.

Properly pruned trees after winter, they begin to bear fruit very well. In the spring, you simply may not have time to prune before the sap flow begins, it happens that spring comes quickly.

Attention: pruning of fruit trees in autumn (end of October - November) is carried out in regions with moderate climatic conditions. In the northern regions, this is not recommended, the plants will not have time to recover before the onset of cold weather, the bark at the cut site may freeze. From such damage, the bark dries up and cracks, which leads to the death of plants.
In the northern regions, it is better to prune trees and shrubs in September - early October.

tree pruning- it is not an easy task, it has many nuances. Consider simple recommendations pruning trees that everyone can handle.

Pruning needed to form a balanced beautiful tree, each branch of which will have the strength to bear fruit.

Crown thinning is a creation best conditions for the formation of not only fruits, but the largest, healthiest and most beautiful.

Sanitary pruning- a preventive measure aimed at the formation good health plants. By systematic pruning, you make it possible for your tree to become a long-liver.

In the cropping in the pictures, everything seems to be clear, but when you approach the tree, we just get lost in the view in front of us huge amount branches sticking out in all directions.

For cropping, we need the following tools: a hacksaw, a regular and long-handled pruner, a sharp garden knife, oil paint - if pruning in the fall, and garden pitch - if pruning in the spring.

Attention: any cuts should be made strictly on the ring, the health and even life of the tree depends on it.

If you cut a branch with a hole- the layers of the trunk through which the juice flows are damaged. If you leave the stump, the bark will peel off, the wood will begin to rot. Over time, such a cut will turn into a hollow with a bunch of diseases that can spread to the whole tree.

Proper pruning produced along the annular influx, it contributes to the rapid healing of the wound and healthy bark around the cut. Only a part of the cut branch located near the trunk is scarred.

slice must be processed oil paint- in autumn period. This treatment is carried out annually.

Cuts of large branches are carried out in 3 stages.

They start sawing a thick branch from the bottom, making a notch, otherwise, under its own weight, the branch may break and the bark will be scuffed.
Then the branch is cut down above the lower gash.

And the final stage, when the branch is removed and nothing interferes, they carry out a leveling cut on the ring. With a sharp knife, smooth out all the bumps and paint.

After autumn pruning of young seedlings, it is recommended to water them immediately after the completion of the procedure. You can also fertilize with mineral fertilizers, which will help the young plant cope better with stress.

Correct tree crown shaping must begin from the moment the seedling is planted. The very first thing to do is to form the correct trunk (the lower branches should grow at a certain height from the ground). All branches and buds at a height of up to 40 cm from the ground are removed.

If there are no branches on the young seedling yet, then it is recommended to cut the top of the head, in the spring, from all the buds, the growth of young branches will begin, from which it will be necessary to choose the strongest ones.

Video - Master class on pruning fruit trees

At this stage of pruning, the crown of the tree is formed. Basic Rule- skeletal branches should diverge in different directions and make a large angle with the trunk.

The more horizontal the branch is, the better it bears fruit and holds the weight of the fruit. Vertical branches bear fruit poorly, often break.

Cut off all unnecessary and weak branches, leaving 3-4 skeletal. If another tier of branches is formed on the tree, then we do the same.

Now let's take care of getting the fastest harvest, for this you need shorten long branches to a bud. The weaker the branch, the shorter we cut it, so we will cause stronger growth next year.

If the frame branches grow incorrectly, they should not be cut, otherwise you will not get a crop. It is better to stretch them, giving the desired direction of growth.

Foreword

Many gardeners limit themselves to going around the garden in the spring and remember it when it's time to harvest the fruits. But a tree can get sick during the growing season, release extra shoots - everything needs control!

Necessary tools and materials

Start pruning fruit trees - the best timing

In fact, pruning does not have a clear beginning and end frame, an experienced gardener, no, no, and even cut off a branch with a hacksaw or pruner that violates the fruit tree pruning scheme conceived for a particular plant. However, the goal is not only to comply with the branching pattern, in this way the growth of new, young branches is stimulated, and the fruiting period is extended. It is impossible to say unequivocally that pruning increases the yield of a tree, but we can safely say that the quality of the fruit increases significantly. It is not surprising - after pruning, the balance between the root system and the crown of the tree is disturbed, as a result of which powerful roots saturate nutrients fruits and branches.

It is most correct to start forming a tree from the moment it appears I am a sprout. However, most often, gardeners fall into the hands of a plant that grew completely freely and without any shaping, which means that the first pruning should be done immediately after planting. Post-planting pruning has another task - to restore the balance between the affected root system and the ground part, which often remains intact during transplantation. root system will not be able to fully "feed" the rapidly growing young crown, so some "freeloaders" need to be removed with pruners, at the same time forming the first skeletal branches.

Competent pruning - when to use which?

During health pruning, all branches affected by rot or scab, frozen and weak shoots are removed. When removing them, part of the healthy wood should also be hooked in order to certainly stop the spread of the disease. In no case should the removed branches be laid on the compost, the only the right decision- burn them immediately! But the ash after burning - what you need fertilizer! Such procedures must be carried out constantly throughout the growing season.

Shortening pruning is carried out in order to tame over-growing branches that interfere with each other and obscure neighbors. Ideally, each branch should receive at least a few hours of direct sun per day, which is achieved through thinning and shortening. Thanks to the latter, the growth of shoots located below the cut is also stimulated. Shortening pruning, first of all, is needed by young trees, which are very actively developing the crown.. On a mature tree, pruning becomes a minor operation that only keeps the tree from growing too large.

But the formed crown needs constant thinning - this removes branches that compete with each other, growing down or inside the crown, shading more promising branches. Thinning provides good ventilation - such a tree will be better able to resist diseases, since it dries out faster from moisture, and does not become overgrown with mosses and scab.

Proper pruning of fruit trees in winter and autumn

Thinning and shortening pruning is carried out during the sleep period - and this is the whole winter and the beginning of spring. In autumn, the tree is only preparing for sleep, so it is better not to disturb it. Yes, and in winter it is still better not to stick your nose out of a warm room - according to the observations of many gardeners, the tree tolerates frost worse. In addition, you can never know with certainty which branch will survive until spring, but in the spring you will definitely make your choice.

Therefore, shortening and thinning operations are best left for the end of February - the beginning of March.

At this time it is no longer cold, but the tree is still sleeping. When shortening, it is necessary to cut the branch in such a way that the bud, which is located closest to the cut, reaches the cut point with its tip - in this case new branch slightly change the direction of growth, and the cut will heal many times faster and almost without a trace. If the cut is made at the base of the last bud, then there is a high probability that it will dry out, and instead the bud below will wake up, which, as a rule, grows in the other direction. The cut points must be lubricated with garden pitch immediately after cleaning.

When sawing side branches, at least a few millimeters of wood should be left, because with a full saw cut, you can damage the main trunk, and then a shell will form at the site of the wound, which can develop into a hollow. You don’t need to make a stump that is too high either - it will dry out and become a “home” for pathogenic bacteria. When removing branches with a hacksaw, always keep a sharp knife near you - make a circular incision in the bark before cutting, otherwise the branch may tear off a long flap of bark. And this is a very serious wound for the tree.

Fruit tree pruning scheme - using cut branches

You don’t need to get carried away with pruning, otherwise there will be only stumps on the tree. If the tree is neglected, has grown as it wanted for several years, first of all, clear the center of the branches growing inside, shorten the top, but do it as sparingly as possible. Better stretch

Pruning apple trees is a technique that every gardener needs to own.

By pruning at random, without knowing the rules, gardeners can cause irreparable damage to fruit trees.

Smart pruning - important element in the formation of a well-groomed, consistently fruitful apple orchard.

Before you properly prune an apple tree, it is necessary to carefully study the methods of trimming and their types.

Trimming types

Pruning can be formative, sanitary, rejuvenating and regulating. Formative pruning creates a strong skeleton for the tree, on which only strong, fruit-bearing branches remain. Sanitary pruning is designed to clear the tree of damaged and incorrectly growing branches.

Rejuvenation - removal of old fruit branches. By using regulating pruning the height of the apple tree is restrained, the crown is thinned out, fruiting is regulated.

By intensity, trimming methods are divided into pinching, weak, medium and strong.

• Pinching is used with the active development of annual green growths.
• With weak pruning on young trees, the growth of new shoots is stimulated, skeletal branches are cut off by one quarter.
• With medium pruning, branches are pruned one third. Apply this method on mature apple trees that are more than five years old.
• Strong pruning suggests complete removal a large number branches. This is how the crowns of mature trees thin out.

Basic tricks

Trimming on a ring

This technique is used when you want to completely delete a branch. At the point of growth, each branch has an annular outgrowth.

In this place, tissue cells are able to actively divide, so the cut made on the ring heals quickly. It is important to make an even, clean cut. so that about half of the ring remains on the branch, and half on the base.

You can’t cut too far from the base - a stump will remain. The consequence of such pruning is that the stump will dry out, fall out and form a hollow. You can not completely cut the ring from the base, delving into the cambium - this injures the tree.

Pruning on the kidney

With partial removal of branches, pruning to the outer bud allows you to expand the crown, reduce the degree of its density.

A cut on a kidney looking inside the crown is used to shoots began to grow inward and the crown became dense.

The correct cutting distance is no more than 50 mm from the selected kidney. Exceed this distance - there will be a stump, underestimate - there is a possibility of damage to the kidney.

Slicing follows immediately cover with garden pitch, oil paint or drying oil, so that the infection does not damage the wound.

Example correct pruning on the kidney.

Large ring sections it is better to pre-disinfect with antifungal drugs, for example, a solution of copper sulfate or iron sulfate (three or five%, respectively).

Terms of work

The timing of pruning is determined by the needs of the trees, not the grower. Best time work is the very beginning of sap flow. Pruning of trees begins in spring from mid-April and continues until the moment of bud break..

Advice! In early summer, it is convenient to carry out sanitary pruning, as it becomes clearly visible which shoot survived the winter and which one froze.

During this period, it is easy to identify branches infected with infection or pests. In August, pruning can be done in areas where spring return frosts are common. This will slow down the beginning of the tree's vegetation for the next season, and will allow you to save fruit buds.

A good time for pruning apple trees is autumn, when the leaves and fruits have already been shed. The main thing that the next two to three weeks the air temperature did not drop below ten degrees. In the south, in a climate with warm winters the pruning period can continue until February.

Based on the timing of work, methods and types of pruning, you can draw up work schemes in different seasons.

Apple tree pruning scheme for beginners

How to prune apple tree branches in spring?

spring main tasks of the gardener- elimination of the consequences of wintering apple trees, their preparation for the new season. Sanitary pruning is carried out, young apple trees form:

1. All broken, burned and frostbitten branches are removed;
2. Branches badly damaged by infections or pests are completely destroyed;
3. Remove branches growing inside the crown and forming sharp corner with a trunk;
4. Old trees can be rejuvenated;
5. Heavy or medium adjustment pruning is carried out, if necessary.

By carrying out regulating pruning in the spring, you can control the amount of the crop. If the previous year the tree gave a large harvest, it laid a few flower buds. In this case, spring regulatory pruning is not needed.

If the previous year was not rich in harvest, then in spring, the tree must be pruned quite strongly. So the apple tree will have as many fruits as it can grow without spending excessive effort.

How to prune apple trees in summer?

Cardinal pruning is possible only as a reaction to negative natural phenomena.

• Early summer- time to remove diseased branches if the degree of their damage was not visible in the spring;
• End of June- pinch the rapidly growing green shoots so that they do not take food from the main skeleton of the plant, do not shade the crown;
• Anytime cut off those branches that have broken or cracked under the influence natural factors or the severity of the harvest;
• End of summer- old branches of adult plants are removed, on which few apples have formed and those that shade young fruit-bearing branches;
• End of summer- prune fruit-bearing trees to slow down the start of the growing season next season, if necessary.

If there are no sick and broken branches on the apple trees, in the summer you can limit yourself to only that pruning that regulates the density of the crown. Knowing how to prune an apple tree during the summer months achieve a successful harvest.

How to prune apple trees in autumn?

You can do all those pruning work for which there was not enough time in spring and summer:

• Branches broken by the wind are removed;
• Branches that have broken or cracked under the weight of the fruit are removed;
• After fruiting, sanitary pruning is carried out, designed to get rid of the consequences of harvesting;
• Anti-aging pruning of old apple trees is carried out;
• If during the fruiting period on adult apple trees branches were seen on which the crop was practically absent, they should be removed;
• Branches on which small and deformed fruits have grown are removed;
• Branches that obscure the main fruitful shoots are removed;
• Branches heavily affected by pests, bacterial or fungal infection are removed.

Advice! There is no universal pruning scheme; focus on the individual needs of each apple tree.

The need for pruning depends on many factors. One of them is the age of the orchard.

How to file apple trees of different ages?

Having decided to prune a young apple tree, the gardener sets himself the goal of laying good foundation for her further development. An old fruit tree is pruned to enhance fruiting, remove crown defects, and save vitality for further growth. Most of work related to pruning adult apple trees is aimed at getting rid of diseases and pests.

Although the methods and types of pruning of young and mature trees are the same, the technology of work is different. Consider further how to prune an apple tree by year

annual apple tree

The gardener at this stage has two tasks: to restrain the growth height of the central shoot so that the skeletal side branches develop well, and to form a trunk. Formative pruning of young apple trees should begin one year after planting.

At the age of one year, the seedling consists of a trunk and 2-3 branches. If the central trunk is cut at a height of 0.8 - 1 meter, the growth of lateral shoots will increase. Long skeletal branches must be shortened. Each of them should be shorter by 16-20 cm than the height of the trunk, have three to five buds.

To form the correct trunk, shoots that grow on a seedling at a distance of 40-50 cm from the ground must be removed. Branches that have an angle of up to 60 degrees at the point of growth will not be able to form a good skeleton on their own. They can be dealt with in two ways: remove or try to make them horizontal.

biennial apple tree

If you are thinking about how to prune a 2-year-old apple tree, then you should know that pruning helps to properly lay the tiers of skeletal branches.

The shape of the crown - any, except for the cup-shaped, suggests the presence of two to five large branches on each tier. The interval between the formed levels is approximately 40 - 60 cm and depends on the expected height of the tree.

The branches of each level should be located at approximately equal distance from each other relative to the circumference of the tier. In a two-year-old seedling, skeletal branches are shortened.

If a decision is made to form an apple tree in the form of a bowl, then in the second year of life, the seedling completely remove the central trunk. The cut is made over the first fork of the branches.

In the absence of a center, its role will be taken over by the side branches. An apple tree will be formed, consisting of 2-4 trunks, depending on the number of skeletal branches on the first tier.

Until the age of five, the crown continues to form.

adult apple tree

Starting from the age of five, - the main pruning, which is carried out on fruit trees. Before you start it, make sanitary pruning. When the apple tree is peeled, they begin to rejuvenate:

• Cut off all old branches that are no longer able to produce apples of varietal size and quality;
• Part of the tops is cut out;
• Crossing branches are cut into the ring;
• All branches directed inward and downward are removed;
• The basal and growth near the trunk is destroyed;

The last stage of anti-aging procedures is the shortening of the trunk. Tall trees can be cut to 3.5 - 2.5 meters without damaging the intensity of fruiting. Removing the top allows light to enter the crown, helps to increase the quality of fruits and their quantity.

Important! If the apple tree is more than eight years old, anti-aging pruning should not be done at a time. Losing a large amount of vegetative mass at the same time is a big stress for an old tree.. It is better to distribute the work over several years.

Pruning apple trees on dwarf and columnar rootstocks have their own characteristics.

How to prune a dwarf apple tree?

On a dwarf rootstock, apple trees give abundant harvests, they begin to bear fruit earlier. If dwarf fruit trees are not pruned, their total fruiting period can be reduced to 3 to 5 years.

In the first year of life, the crown skeleton is formed by trimming the trunk. The cut height depends on the variety and is 40-70 cm. The side shoots are cut so that the crown visually looks like ball, cap or triangle.

The closer to the top of the apple tree, the stronger the branches develop. Strong upper branches are shortened, which stimulates the growth and development of shoots in the center of the crown. Tree branches on dwarf rootstocks, if they are healthy, rarely cut completely. Most often, two to four kidneys are left on them.

As soon as the apple tree begins to bear fruit, the number of flower buds should be regulated so as not to overload the apple tree with fruits. Under the weight of fruits, dwarf varieties can be threatened not only with a fracture of the branches. A tree can uproot itself from the ground.

How to prune a columnar apple tree

The shape of the crown of columnar apple trees is special. The width of such a tree does not exceed 50 cm, it has no long lateral branches. Regular pruning columns are not required. But sometimes the apple tree needs pruning.

Damage to the top of the trunk

Top damage - one of the most common problems columnar apple tree. Damage is usually caused by frost and pests, then by the beginning of the season the apical part of the trunk dries up and dies. These processes force gardeners to trim the top.

The peculiarity of pruning shoots at the crown is that it is necessary not only to cut off the central shoot, but also to find a replacement for it. If this is not done, the apple tree forms several trunks on top, will lose the shape of the column. To create a new top, choose the strongest shoot that grows vertically.

The remaining vertical branches are cut off, leaving two to three buds from the base. The former crown is removed at the point of contact with the chosen leader.
To avoid the need for pruning, the top of the columns should be wrapped for the winter.

How to cut an apple tree while maintaining the shape of the crown?

The first year of growth, columnar varieties, as a rule, do not require the gardener to intervene in the process of crown formation. Starting from the age of two, young growths begin to compete with fruit-bearing branches, take food from them.

It is during this period that the gardener must intervene and adjust the ratio of growth of the main branches and increments:

• All the shoots that the apple tree has formed are pinched at the same distance from the trunk, which is 25-30 cm;
• In the third and following years, pinching is carried out at a distance of 30-40 cm;
• Starting from the fourth year, three-year branches are partially removed.

The features of pruning side shoots are that with systematic pinching, the columnar apple tree will not need pruning. Since pinching is a more gentle procedure, the apple tree is not injured, does not experience stress.

Attention! Full wrapping of columnar apple trees with covering material in several layers for the winter is recommended. So, during the period of severe frosts and sharp temperature fluctuations, flower buds, the trunk and, most importantly, the bark of the apple tree will not suffer.

The need for special supportive care is experienced by any apple tree after the pruning procedure.

How to prune an apple tree: video of the correct technique

If you do not know how to properly prune an apple tree, we recommend watching this video:

Watch this video for details and details. spring pruning apple trees:

Apple tree care after pruning

After pruning, fruit trees need watering and top dressing. If pruning was carried out in the spring, it is necessary to add fertilizers to the soil of the trunk circle, which contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in equal parts.

After autumn pruning, fertilizers are applied, which contain potassium and phosphorus - they stimulate wound healing, strengthen the bark of the apple tree. Nitrogen fertilizers in the autumn should be avoided.

The introduction of nitrogen in the fall will give impetus to the development of new shoots, as a result, the wood of annual growths will not have time to fully mature, the apple tree will not prepare for wintering. As a result, cuts made in the fall may be susceptible to frostbite.

When fertilizing, fertilizer application rates should be strictly observed. Overfertilizing apple trees will do more harm than good.

Apple pruning plan.

How to prune an apple tree by year.

How to prune an apple tree in autumn.

How to prune apple trees to form a tree crown.

Instead of a conclusion

When preparing to prune an apple tree, it must be remembered that by cutting each branch, one should answer the question “why?”. There is an answer - cut. The answer is no, so this branch can remain on the apple tree.

If a bacterial or fungal infection rages in the area - garden pruning should be postponed. Each slice is a potential entry point for microbes.

Proper pruning is the key to the health and fertility of the orchard.

In contact with

Tree pruning is the key to any gardener's success. Fruit trees need constant and careful care. Only in this case they will give a regular and abundant harvest. Surely, many gardeners have encountered such a phenomenon that a neighbor in the dacha collects more fruits from one plant than you do from the entire plot. This means that your neighbor is doing proper care behind your trees, which you unfortunately neglect. In this article, you will learn why pruning fruit trees is needed and how to do it correctly.

Purpose of tree pruning

This procedure is carried out in order to prolong the life of plants, stimulate their growth and obtain big harvest. After all, fruit trees personal plot planted for the purpose of producing fruit. Besides, Pruning your garden helps protect your trees from pests and possible diseases.

In general, plants need comprehensive care, one pruning will not be enough to get a bountiful harvest. It is necessary to fertilize, water and spray the garden. And then your fruit trees will be beautiful, healthy and, most importantly, fruitful.

Just because tree pruning plays a big role in getting a harvest, does not mean that this event should be carried out when it pleases. There are certain terms and methods for carrying out this procedure. Failure to follow these rules will have the opposite effect on the trees and you risk instead blooming garden receive a PIECE OF SCANTED PLANTS.

Trimming types

By removing extra branches from the crown of a tree, you greatly slow down its growth. Experienced gardeners have long noticed such a feature, the larger the tree, the smaller its fruits. The following types of plant pruning are currently practiced:

crown forming

This is done to obtain a bountiful harvest by forming the correct crown of the fruit tree. Typically, such pruning is carried out in the period from 2 to 4 years of the life of a seedling in your area.

Branches are pruned in such a way that stronger shoots form a reliable frame that protects weaker and thinner branches. This should be done in such a way that the branches inside the frame receive a sufficient amount sunlight. It has been noticed that trees with a properly processed crown begin to bear fruit earlier and give more yield..

Regulating fruiting

It is from this procedure that the regularity of the harvest depends. The essence of such pruning is as follows: depending on the variety of the seedling, the shoots are shortened by a certain number of buds. This number can vary from 3 to 12.

Restorative

It consists in removing old, broken or diseased branches.

Anti-aging

This type of pruning is relevant only for mature trees. Old branches are removed or shortened, only young shoots remain. It is recommended to carry out such a procedure approximately once every four years.

Trimming methods

Novice amateur gardeners are concerned about the question of how to properly prune trees? We have already told you about the types of this procedure. Now it is worth talking about the methods. There are currently two known methods. Let's talk about each of them in more detail.

Shortening

The bottom line is cutting off young shoots. This is done in order to prevent the growth of shoots outside the crown..

This is done as follows: choose a shoot that grows outward and has more than one kidney. For example, if there are three buds on the shoot, it is recommended to cut one. The following year, the cut branch should produce three young shoots. One of them will definitely grow in the direction the gardener needs, that is, not outward from the crown, but parallel to the ground. This shoot is left, the other two are cut off.

thinning

Such pruning of fruit trees is considered the safest for plant health. In this case, the branches are not cut, but removed completely.

It is necessary to delete the branch at its very base. Usually in this place there is a barely distinguishable fold of the bark. This crease should remain intact. Then the cut site will quickly tighten with bark, which will significantly reduce the risk of disease.

Tool selection

The choice of tools for pruning fruit trees plays a big role. Tools should be not only comfortable, but also well-sharpened.. This will allow not only to quickly carry out necessary work, but will also bring less discomfort to the seedling.

Here is a list of tools that should be in the arsenal of any gardener:

Secateurs

This is probably the most popular and frequently used tool in gardening. When buying such garden shears, you need to pay attention to following points: weight, sharpening and operation of the mechanism.

If you purchase a tool that doesn't fit your hand or works hard, the job of pruning fruit trees will take a lot of time and effort.

Hacksaw

Inexperienced gardeners often use ordinary carpentry tools to work in the garden. This is fundamentally the wrong approach. A construction saw, although it will provide a faster process of work, will cause irreparable harm to the tree. Therefore, it is best to purchase a special garden saw.

Air pruner

This tool according to the principle of operation does not differ from ordinary garden scissors. The only difference is the telescopic design of the fixture. Thanks to it, without using a ladder, you can cut branches located at a decent height from the ground.

petrol saw

This tool is used to trim thick branches from old trees.

How to properly prune to increase the yield of a tree

Many novice gardeners do not pay due attention to this procedure. Why bother with pruning if the tree bears fruit so well, they say. But high yield will be only in the first three years, then it will sharply decline.

The crown plays an important role in the fruitfulness of the tree. It is recommended to cut and form it from the beginning of planting the seedling in the ground. The crown should not be very thick and high. Otherwise, the abundance of branches will not skip Sun rays, which will hinder fruit development. In addition, it is very problematic to process and spray heavily thickened trees. Accordingly, the plant will often get sick.

Pruning the garden is also needed so that the branches grow in the same direction. The chaotic pile of branches not only reduces the yield, but also makes it difficult to collect it. Therefore, all shoots that grow strictly up or down are recommended to be completely removed.

Horizontal branches should not be removed, it is on them that the most fruit is formed. In extreme cases, you can cut them slightly so that the branch does not break from the abundance of fruits.

Do not leave dried, broken or frozen branches. They affect not only the yield, but also the lifespan of your garden.

In winter, especially with the onset of severe cold weather, it is recommended to trim the crown. This will allow the plant to recover faster after frost and, accordingly, give more yield.

When to prune

Why you need to prune fruit trees and how to do it right, we figured it out. Now we should talk about what time of the year it is better to do this.

Pruning of garden trees is carried out at any time of the year. But it is worth considering some factors. For example, the region of the country where your garden is located. Considering the vast expanses of our Motherland, each of its regions has its own climatic conditions.

For example, in the south it is recommended to do this, because there are no severe frosts there. AT middle lane Russia, and in the north of the country, do not prune fruit trees. Otherwise, during severe frosts, the tree may get sick and die.

Given these features, we can conclude that the optimal time for cutting branches is early. Until the buds start to swell. Therefore, first of all, they pay attention to old trees. Buds on them are formed much earlier than in young plants.

Also has its own characteristics. In general, experienced gardeners and biologists advise choosing for pruning the period when the garden is resting.