Through what distance profiles for drywall are attached. Profile for fixing drywall: necessary accessories and rules of work

garden equipment 03.03.2020

garden equipment

September 28, 2016
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

During my career, I had to work a lot with drywall and build a wide variety of structures. When constructing a frame, the reliability of the structure depends on how firmly the connection of the profiles is made. This work can be done in different ways, sometimes you can use the best option, and sometimes proceed from the current situation and use what is at hand.

We will figure out what options for work can be used and what you need to pay special attention to achieve the best result. All technologies are easy to implement and do not require any special skills, the main thing is to have everything you need at hand and follow the recommendations below.

Technology No. 1 - the use of special elements

Modern manufacturers produce a number of components for mounting metal profile frames. Special connections for a drywall profile can have different configurations, I will talk about the most popular and convenient ones. The information is presented in the form of a table so that you can better understand it.

product name	Purpose and design features
Profile extension	It is used to lengthen the main (60x27) profile and is a special insert that accurately aligns the elements with each other and strengthens the junction. Products are made of galvanized metal, the thickness of which must be at least 0.9 mm, for the convenience of alignment in the middle there may be a special protrusion against which the ends of the profile abut
Single-level connector "Crab"	It is he who is shown in the photo above, this option is used to connect the main profile in one plane. The design is such that installation is fast and reliable, you do not need to perfectly fit the elements, they are simply inserted into the crab and fixed with self-tapping screws. Products must be rigid enough, because they are subjected to a considerable load.
Two-level connector	If you need to connect two profiles that are located one below the other, then this element will be the best solution. With its help, the design is quickly assembled and high reliability of fixation is achieved. Such options in private buildings are used infrequently, however, their convenience is undeniable.
Side connector	And this type of product is completely unfamiliar to our developers. But with it, making T-shaped connections is much easier and faster, so I recommend using such connectors if you need to fasten two perpendicular profiles

To accurately calculate the required amount of fasteners, the easiest way is to sketch the future frame and draw all its elements. This makes it much easier to figure out how much and what kind of fasteners you need, and you don’t have to travel several times to buy more products or think about how to return the rest to the seller.

Required materials and fixtures

Now let's figure out how to properly connect the drywall profile using all the above products.

In addition to the fastener itself, we need additional materials and tools:

Self-tapping screws for fastening, in one of the previous reviews I spoke in detail about the main types and their features. Here I will only give a recommendation to use bedbugs (as specialists call small self-tapping screws) with a sharp tip 9 or 11 mm long, the coating can be any, this does not affect product quality. As for the quantity, the norm is 20-25 pieces per square meter of construction, in fact it usually turns out that way;

Self-tapping screws are tightened using a screwdriver with a special nozzle. All hardware used when installing drywall has a head for a PH2 slot, so buy a few bits of this size, they may differ in length, it is most convenient for me to work with a 50 mm tool, and for hard-to-reach places, a longer length option may be needed;

When connecting profiles, most often they need to be cut, so make sure that you have metal scissors at hand. The simplest option will do, as long as the tool is sharp.

Mounting extensions

The work instructions for each type of fastener are different, we will analyze these options separately and start by considering how to lengthen the rack profile for drywall:

When building racks, strength and geometric accuracy are of particular importance, which is why be sure to use extension cords. If there are several options on sale, then choose one that is made of thicker metal and has protrusions on the sides. Thanks to them, the profile will be connected exactly in the middle of the fastener;

First of all, you need to take measurements to determine the length of the fastened elements. Next, cutting is carried out, for this the profile is marked with a tape measure and a felt-tip pen, after which the product is cut with scissors for metal. From the total length of the element that should be obtained, subtract 10-15 mm to simplify further work;
Now let's figure out how to lengthen the profile: first, the connector is inserted into the end of one of the profiles, after which the second piece is placed on the other side. The knot must fit tightly, if it dangles, then the strength will suffer greatly. When you are convinced that the rack is smooth, the connection must be fixed, two self-tapping screws are screwed on each side to ensure maximum reliability;

Mounting crabs

We figured out how to build a profile, now let's look at how to attach jumpers to a rack using a crab, the do-it-yourself technology is as follows:

First of all, it is necessary to take measurements in order to determine the length of all fastened elements. In this case, the size of the crossbars should be 5 mm less than the total length, this is necessary so that they fit normally in the structure and do not deform in it;
The connector is inserted into the main rack from the reverse side, this is done simply, because the product is adjusted to the dimensions of the profile. It is important to position it at the right level and snap it all the way so that the element is located as tightly as possible;

Then a jumper is inserted from one of the sides, this is done simply: the profile is attached to the side and snaps onto the mount, if necessary, it must be moved closer to the rack so that the gap between the elements is minimal;

On each side there are protrusions with holes, they are bent along the profile, after which self-tapping screws are twisted into them. Everything is quite simple and fast, so after attaching one crab, you will be well versed in this type of work;

The second side is fixed in the same way. If you use a crab to fasten the jumper on one side, then the second part can simply be cut off with scissors for metal.

Installation of two-level connectors

A two-level connector is necessary in cases where it is necessary to connect two main profiles located one below the other or to assemble a complex structure.

The element itself is a holder, in the lower part of which there are protrusions that go into the grooves of the profile, they hold the racks, no additional fasteners are used. In the upper part there are latches that snap into the protrusions of the sides of the upper profile and prevent the unit from moving.

The installation process is quite simple:

The connector is inserted into the upper profile in the required place, it fits exactly in size, so it will hold tightly;
The lower profile must be inserted so that the protrusions go into the bends of the sides, due to this the structure will hold, so it is worth checking each connection for reliability, whether everything is located as it should. If desired, fasteners can be attached to the top profile through the holes in the connector.

Mounting the side connectors

This type of fastener is ideal for attaching jumpers to the frame on one side. Most often it is used in multi-level ceiling systems and at the junction of the frame to the walls. The connector is a product that is inserted into the end of the profile with one side, and the other side clings to the side of the profile located perpendicularly.

Let's figure out how to use this element:

First of all, it is necessary to take measurements in order to cut off pieces of the profile of the desired length, they must be 5 mm less than the total distance;
Fasteners are inserted all the way into the end of the profile, which we will attach, sometimes in order to do this, you need to make a lot of effort;
Further, the prepared element is simply hung on the side of the rack, an indicator that you did everything right is the even arrangement of the profiles relative to each other. There is a protrusion on the hook that goes beyond the side and thus fixes the mount;

If desired, you can screw a few self-tapping screws into the sides through the profile and connector and into the end of the rack through the hole in the fastener. This will prevent the node from disconnecting under loads.

Technology number 2 - fastening with self-tapping screws

If I say that this option is used most often, then I am unlikely to be mistaken. After all, this method does not imply the presence of any special elements or fasteners, what is already at hand is used. The advantage of such a solution is its simplicity, the disadvantage is that the strength of the joints is not as high as when using the above options.

This technology is suitable for structures that do not have a special load. Also, this option is relevant when assembling frames from a rack-mount and non-standard profile, it is difficult to find components for these materials, and sometimes only the method discussed in this chapter can help solve the problem.

Required materials and tools

Everything is very simple here, since we will use what must be at hand when building the frame:

The profile itself, from which we will make the frame. In some cases, we will notch it, and in others we will fix it as it is;
Self-tapping screws for metal with a sharp tip - never buy hardware with a drill, no matter what the sellers tell you, if they claim this option is better, then they never assembled the frames themselves;
Metal scissors will be needed to fit the elements, in some cases you will have to cut a lot, so it’s better to have a handy tool on hand;

Buy scissors for curly metal cutting, they differ in that the working part is bent and the handles are located on top. When working, you will not scratch the edges of the profile, and cutting with this option is much more convenient.

A screwdriver with nozzles of the desired configuration must also be present, if you do everything by hand, then you will get tired very quickly.

Profile connection without cutting

This option is simple, and is used when attaching the main profile to the guide, as well as when fixing corner joints. Let's figure out how to connect the elements with your own hands:

First you need to fix the guide elements to the wall and ceiling, after which the main profile is inserted into them. The dimensions of the products are made in such a way that they fit perfectly, and the stand is tightly held in the wall elements;

Next, you need to screw 2-3 self-tapping screws through the profile wall so that they securely fix the element in the desired position. In the process of work, when tightening the first self-tapping screw, one should hold the connection with one hand, since the profile can move, further, when the knot is fixed, nothing needs to be held;

If you need to fasten the corner joint, then you should combine two parts at a right angle, and then screw two self-tapping screws through the joint diagonally. It is better if the fastening is made on both sides, but you can limit yourself to one if access to the other is not possible;

If you want the corners to be stronger, then you can make a connection by cutting the sides of the profile and bending it at a right angle without cutting the base.

I would like to make one important remark: I categorically do not recommend increasing the length of the profile in this way. Inserting them into each other, or even strengthening with another piece of the profile, you will not achieve the required rigidity, and the geometry of such joints often leaves much to be desired.

Profile notched connection

Let's figure out how to fasten the elements together if they do not connect in any way, the technology looks like this:

First you need to take measurements, while it is worth remembering that the length of the profile pieces that we will fasten should be longer, since the ends will be cut in order to attach them to the racks. The length should be 3-4 cm longer on each side, the excess can be cut off without any problems and then;
If there is no load on the structure, then you can cut off the sides and leave the base, which will go onto the profile and through which the fastening will be made. Everything is very simple here, and if something is not clear to you, then just look at the photo below, all questions will immediately disappear;

If you need to make jumpers or reinforce the opening, then you can cut the profile as shown in the diagram below. The advantage of this solution is that you can bend the profile in any direction convenient for you, after which the element is inserted into place and fixed on the frame. Notch angle - 45 degrees;

If you need a stronger connection, then you can combine the two fastener options. For example, use crabs and additionally twist the profile together. It is this option that is shown below, and it is distinguished by the highest reliability, I advise those who are going to hang heavy wall plasterboard on the ceiling to use this solution.

Reinforced fastening of jumpers

If you need to achieve the reliability of jumpers in wall and ceiling structures, you can use another interesting work option. For it, you will need to have a few extra guide profiles on hand.

The workflow is quite simple:

To begin with, the guide profile is cut into pieces about 10 centimeters long, they will be placed on both sides of the jumpers, that is, there should be twice as many as the stiffeners;
The elements prepared in this way are attached to the side of the racks at the desired level and screwed with 2-3 metal screws. That is, we get additional grooves for the main profile, thanks to which the structure will acquire additional rigidity;

The jumper itself is inserted into the guides prepared in this way and screwed on the front side with metal screws. This option requires additional consumption of the guide profile, but if there are no crabs at hand, then this solution will provide no less reliability of the structure.

Technology No. 3 - fastening the profile using a cutter

There is a special tool for connecting profiles for drywall, it is called a cutter and is used for the most part only by professionals. This is due to the fact that the price for a solid option starts from one and a half thousand rubles, it is not very reasonable to buy it for apartment renovation, but if you are going to constantly engage in such work, then I advise you to consider this decision.

The advantage of such a tool is that it does not require self-tapping screws to work, the device cuts through two profiles, bending the metal from the inside, thereby securely fixing the two profiles, below is what the connection looks like.

The downside of the cutter is that, due to its design, it can not be used everywhere, so in any case it will not be possible to do without a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. Consider the most popular tool design so that you can understand how it works:

The basis of the design is a fixed lever, at the end of which there is a bracket with an emphasis, this is the main working unit;
The metal is cut through a special punch, which moves due to the pressure of the movable lever. To make the tool move smoothly, the pressure on the punch is made through the roller, a system with two axes is obtained, thanks to which it is much easier to use the tool.

Now let's figure out how to connect a profile using this tool, the whole technology is simple, and it will not be difficult for anyone to master it:

First you need to prepare a profile, for this it is cut into pieces of the required size. I advise you to first check whether everything fits and whether the parts fit together well, so you can fix problems if there are any and not be distracted during work;
Next, you need to clearly combine the connected elements with each other. Pay close attention to this aspect, because if you make a mistake, it will be difficult to correct the situation, this is not a self-tapping screw that can be unscrewed, the notch holds firmly, and in order to separate it, you will have to ruin the profile;
In the cutter, the handles are maximally divorced, after which the punch is set where the cut needs to be made. Usually fastening is done at several points, so think in advance how best to position the tool to ensure maximum connection reliability;

When everything is properly located, you need to gently, but strongly press the handles of the cutter and thus connect the structural elements. Next, the tool is set in other places, and the work is done in the same way until you make the required number of connections.

Conclusion

We have dealt with different options for carrying out work, and it is up to you to decide how to fasten the frame in your house. All of the above techniques meet all strength requirements if they are done correctly. The video in this article will help you better understand some of the important nuances of individual technologies, and if you still don’t understand something, then write questions in the comments below the review.

You can create a variety of elements and designs. The reliability of all structural elements depends on how tightly the profiles are fastened together. This work can be done in several ways. There are proven and reliable ones that are used in most cases, but sometimes improvised materials can also be used.
Existing options for connecting the profile to each other

Consider how to connect drywall profiles to each other correctly, and what nuances need to be taken into account when. The technologies are simple, and therefore it is easy to connect the profiles with your own hands, the main thing is to prepare all the necessary materials and.

There are many designs on the market that are produced to connect profile parts with.

An example of a crab connection of profiles

Connectors can have a different look and configuration, but there are the most popular ones, which we will consider, for convenience, we will do this in the form of a table:

Extension cords	They are used for the profile 60x27 - this is a special insert that can connect the elements with an accuracy of a millimeter, Subsequently they are screwed in. The elements are made of galvanized steel, in the middle there is a special recess that helps the ends of the profile to fit snugly against each other.
"Crab" - single-level connector	Used to connect profile elements on the same level. is such that it is possible to connect profiles on four sides - this is very convenient when installing transverse jumpers. At the same time, installation is easy, fast and reliable. Products are made of hardened galvanized steel, they bear a considerable load. Used to connect profile elements on the same level. The design of the crab is such that it is possible to connect profiles on four sides. This is very convenient when installing cross jumpers. At the same time, installation is easy, fast and reliable. Products are made of hardened galvanized steel, they bear a considerable load.
Two level connector	This element is used if you need to fix profiles located one above the other. With the help of this element, it will not be difficult to assemble a two-level structure, while it will be very reliable. It is mainly used by professional developers, private traders rarely use it, but it is a convenient element with a lot of advantages.
Side connector	An unfamiliar element that is practically not used, but it is very simple to connect parts with its use. It is designed to connect two perpendicular elements.

Profile fastening when creating a frame for plasterboard

The task of how to fasten a profile for drywall is solved differently depending on what you are creating: a frame for a partition, for wall cladding or ceiling filing.

But in any case, the profiles have to be cut or extended in length, connected at an angle to each other, attached to the base, and sometimes bent. We describe in detail each of these procedures.

Profile connection

Most often, it is required to connect two or more profiles in a straight line - to increase the length, or at right angles to each other - to connect adjacent guides and make the frame more rigid.

Building. If the three-meter length of one profile is not enough, it is connected to the second (or its segment) using a special connector.

The ends of the two connected profiles are inserted into it and fixed with short self-tapping screws with a press washer (builders often call them "bugs" or "seeds").

For reference. Before fastening a drywall profile to another, it may need to be shortened in length.
To do this, use metal scissors to cut its sides to the base, then break the profile by bending and straightening it several times.

Cross connection. It is necessary mainly to create ceiling frames. You will not have any difficulty with how to properly fasten the drywall profile crosswise if you use "crabs".

All four profiles are inserted into the “crab” with the ends, snapped into it, after which the antennae of the connecting part are bent 90 degrees and screwed to the sides of the profiles with the same “bugs”.

Attention. You can do without "crabs". To do this, you need to cut the transverse profiles along the fold with your own hands and break off or bend the sides. Then put them on the longitudinal profile and fix them with "bugs".

T-connection. It is carried out either in the way just described, or with the help of a “crab”, after cutting off the excess part of the part.

Attention!
If you need to connect the guide and rack profiles, the latter is simply inserted into the first and screwed with one self-tapping screw.

Profile bending

When creating arches, niches and complex ceiling structures, profiles sometimes need to be bent.

How to do it - look at the video posted on our website.

If you cut both sides of the profile to the back, it will bend along it as you need. The steeper the required bending radius, the smaller the distance between the notches should be.

If you cut one of the sides and continue the cut along the back, the drywall profile will bend along the second side.

Profile fastening

The answer to the question of how to properly fix the profile under drywall depends on what distance must be maintained between the base and the cladding, as well as on the material of this base.

To be more precise, the fastening of the drywall profile takes place in two stages. First, suspensions are attached to the base, and only then profiles are fixed on them, which are then set at a given level.

A spoke hanger is used for plasterboard suspended ceilings. It consists of a figured metal plate to which the profile is attached, an expanding element and a rod (spokes).
At the end of the spoke there is a hook through which the suspension is attached to the base. With the help of an expanding element, the rod is released to the desired length.

The choice of fasteners does not depend on the type of suspension, but on the material of the supporting base. If it is a tree, you can use ordinary wood screws or nails.

Attention!
Suspensions are attached to the ceiling only with self-tapping screws!

For fastening to a brick or concrete base, dowel-nails are used, under which it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drywall dowel.

For hollow bricks or aerated concrete, it is better to choose dowels with transverse notches and expansion whiskers.

The strength of the entire structure depends on how the suspensions are fixed.

But here it is important not only the reliability of fastening, but also the correct determination of their position, since it is necessary to fasten the drywall profile at a certain distance from each other.

The width of the GKL sheet is 120 cm, so the profiles should be parallel to each other at a distance of 40 or 60 cm between the axes. This will allow you to attach two adjacent sheets to one extreme profile.
Suspensions are fixed strictly on one line, which is marked in advance. Deviating from it will not allow you to install the profile.

For reference. In the absence of suspensions, they can be made from scraps of the PS profile. To do this, they are cut along the sides, bent with the letter G and attached to the wall.
The price of such fastening will turn out to be minimal, and reliability - high.

Attaching the profile to the hangers

The profile is fastened to direct hangers with short self-tapping screws with a press washer. In one of the pictures above, you have already seen that after twisting the suspension legs, protruding beyond the profile, are bent to the sides.

To suspensions with traction, depending on their design, the profile is either screwed with the same self-tapping screws, or simply snapped onto special ledges.

Those who decide to make repairs in the apartment using drywall should definitely know how to fix the drywall to the profile, because without this the structure will be unstable.

Drywall today is widely used for wall decoration and creating unique designs.

With it, you can create a false wall, make shelves, niches, figured ceilings, an arched entrance, etc.

At the same time, the cost of the material is extremely low, and the work with it is quite simple, so you can handle its installation yourself.

After finishing the work, you will not have to clean the room for a long time, because the drywall leaves practically no debris. The biggest problem that you may have when working with this material is installation.

Installing drywall can seem daunting, especially if you're doing it yourself for the first time.

However, if you use the instructions in the article and supporting videos, you can cope with this task and get a high-quality and stable design that will last you for more than one year.

Drywall on the market is presented in three types, which differ in the width of the canvas.

The material has the following dimensions:

the first type is moisture resistant (its size is 8-10 mm);
the second - wall (width 10-12 mm);
the third is ceiling, it is the thinnest (6-8 mm).

The most expensive drywall is moisture resistant, so it is used for cladding mainly bathroom walls. The most used type of material is wall.

Its dimensions are sufficient to ensure the stability and reliability of the surface. As a rule, its standard thickness is 10 mm, but you can also find models whose dimensions reach up to 12 mm.

The third type of drywall - ceiling - is used, as the name implies, for lining the ceiling.

Its dimensions are the smallest, which has a minimal load on the ceiling, and it is also treated with a special composition, which makes it impossible to use it for other types of finishes.

The distance through which it is necessary to fasten drywall sheets to the profile varies depending on the type of drywall.

The strength of a sheet of material depends on the distance between its supports: the smaller it is, the stronger the sheet will be.

In some cases, drywall can simply be glued, but more often the distance is still insufficient and it is necessary to use metal profiles to make the structure stable.

The distance for fixing a drywall profile must comply with building codes, which require the following specific values.

For the wall material of the plank, a length of 40 cm must be observed, for moisture resistant - a length of 60, and for the ceiling, it is necessary to assemble the profiles together into a grid, the size of the cells of which should be 40x40 cm.

Properly fixing the supports is half the battle. It is also necessary to accurately determine the holes where the screws will be screwed.

The distance must be correct, because if the screws are installed too often, then the integrity of the web will be broken, and if it is too rare, then it will crumble and fall out.

A small number of fasteners will cause the same problem. The length between the screws must be at least 20 cm apart with a deviation from the edges of at least half a centimeter, otherwise the sheets will crumble.

There are two types of screws that are used for drywall installation: fasteners for metal profiles and drywall fasteners.

Metal profile screws are divided into wood-metal and all-metal.

Metal-to-metal screws are needed to fasten two profiles together. They are equipped with a drill installed at the end of the part, which provides a tight fastening of the elements.

Wood and metal screws are required to connect the profile to the wood structure. This screw has a sharp end, capable of cutting through metal and fixing tightly in wood.

Such parts are usually made of galvanized steel, which is quite durable.

There are many varieties of drywall screws, but it is better to use any of these two types, then the fastening will be durable and reliable and the drywall profile will last you a long time.

It is also important to decide which side you need to attach drywall to the profile. The material should be installed against the wall with the side on which the back paper with factory markings is located.

The outer part of the drywall can be white or green and should be located "facing" the room.

Material installation

Before connecting the metal drywall profile to the material, you need to draw up a drawing and a plan so that the installation goes correctly and the parts are tightly connected to each other.

To do this, you need to determine the dimensions of the future structure, and draw a plan based on them.

If you plan only to install drywall on the walls, then in the plan you need to draw a frame on which the material will hold.

The frame should contain 4 support bars located at each corner of the structure.

In order for the frame to be stable, you need to carefully ensure that the distance between the planks is the same, and also that they are not located at the very edges of the drywall, otherwise the material will be damaged.

Placing the planks, keeping the correct distance, is perhaps the most time-consuming process to do by hand, the rest of the work will be easier.

If you are making shelves or other drywall construction, then the frame should also be reflected in the plan, but with it the image of the future building itself - so you will see how it fits into the room and whether you need to adjust the dimensions.

After the drawing is ready, you can assemble the frame, as well as mount it on the wall. The whole process of how to connect the drywall profile with the material with your own hands, you can follow the video.

Assembling the frame begins with the installation of guides - this is the name of a wide guide profile, similar to the letter "P".

It fixes the bottom and top of the walls, or is installed along the perimeter of the ceiling, if you are finishing this surface with drywall.

The guide profile is needed not only to show the vector along which the carrier profiles will be installed, but it also serves as a beacon.

The most important thing is to install the guide profile evenly. If there is a gap between the walls and the profile, then it must be closed with thick cardboard or wood, depending on what size it is.

To fix the guide profile, use dowels, they are installed at a distance of up to 30 cm from each other.

After the installation is completed, you can mount the frame in the starting profile on the wall, observing the values of the drawing.

If you are installing drywall directly on the wall, then you first need to insulate the walls with mineral wool, foam rubber or foam plastic.

If you use a profile for a plasterboard partition, then you do not need to insulate the resulting structure, it will be enough to fill the voids.

Fastening the material directly to the wall is easier than making an arched profile or other separate structure, however, even wall structures require a profile.

Drywall profile structures are connected to the material using screws.

You will need a high-quality screwdriver, it is better to work in medium rotation mode, and when screwing in, press the screw - then it will go into the material the first time.

There are other rules governing how to install a drywall profile on a wall: first, install the corner sheet - this is done with a single screw.

Then fix the level crosswise with self-tapping screws and crimp the sheet around the perimeter. Now you can screw it onto the carrier bars, sequentially moving from one to another.

All fastenings are carried out with self-tapping screws. A consistent transition to the slats will ensure the most reliable fixation and maintaining the desired level of placement.

The profile for drywall is attached to the ceiling in the same way as the walls are fixed, but it is better to do all the work together, because. at the same time holding the profile under the ceiling and fixing it with your own hands will not work, and if the material is cut, it will look ugly.

In general, fastening a profile with drywall is a simple process, and an auxiliary video will help you understand incomprehensible moments.

Using a profile and drywall, you can create a variety of designs: fix the material on the wall, make an arched entrance, false wall, etc.

Whatever type of construction you choose, the correct connection and installation will make it a real decoration of your apartment.

Proper fastening of the profile guarantees the reliability of the plasterboard construction. During work, you have to connect and lengthen parts, use various dowels and screws for installation.

The profile frame is fixed on wooden bases using black or galvanized self-tapping screws with a large thread pitch. For mounting on concrete, block and brick surfaces, there are various fasteners:

Dowel-nail with a mushroom cap - quick fastening of the frame on the wall, dowels with a diameter of 6–10 mm and a length of 30 mm or more are used;
Nylon or polypropylene dowel - for any wall, used with screws with a diameter of 2-6 mm;
Expansion dowel ("hedgehog") - horizontal, and with a length of more than 50 mm and vertical fixing in concrete;
Anchor metal dowel - reliable installation on the ceiling, the size is selected depending on the load;
Dowel-hook - for attaching a wire suspension;
Anchor-wedge ceiling - for vertical installation in a clogged way.

Metal guides and connecting parts are fastened together in three ways:

Self-tapping screws such as a press washer (“bugs”) with a drill or with a sharp tip;
Rivets with pre-drilling;
With the help of a cutter - a special tool that pierces through the walls of the profile and bends the metal petals along the sides of the hole.

In the process of constructing a frame for drywall, it is required to lengthen the profiles or join them at a right angle:

The extension is carried out by a direct connecting element, into which the two ends of the joined profiles are inserted and fixed with "bugs";
The cross-shaped connection is carried out by a “crab”: the ends of four profiles are snapped into it, then the antennae are bent and screwed with self-tapping screws;
Fastening without crabs: the transverse profiles are cut along the fold, the side is bent, then they are superimposed on the longitudinal guide and fixed;
A T-shaped connection is made by the same method, or a cropped “crab” is used;
When joining the rack and guide profile, the first is inserted into the latter and pulled together with a self-tapping screw.

Vertical profile installation procedure:

The profile is cut 1 cm shorter than the distance between the installed lower and upper guides and inserted between them;
On the wall, after 60 cm, marks are made on each side of the profile, the workpiece is pulled out;
Hangers are attached across the lines, holes are drilled and nail dowels are installed;
The workpiece is put in place, attached to the guide screws;
The vertical profile is aligned with the cord and screwed to the hangers;
The protruding parts of the plates are bent inward.

Horizontal jumpers are attached to vertical guides in one of the previously discussed ways.

To the surface of the ceiling, the profile is mounted using hangers, which are of two types:

Direct suspensions are perforated plates bent in the form of the letter “P”, the profile is fixed to them with self-tapping screws with a press washer;
Hangers with traction - consist of a knitting needle, an expanding element and a figured plate that snaps into the protrusions of the profile.

In the absence of factory hangers, they are made independently from the remaining scraps. Profile pieces are cut along the sides and bent at an angle of 90 °. The resulting mount is highly reliable, and is inexpensive.

After getting acquainted with the advice of professionals, the work will go easier, and most importantly - correctly. Starting with flat designs and gaining skills, they gradually move on to complex forms and become real masters.