Beds for the lazy: photos, ideas, ways of their implementation. Narrow bed method: revealing the secrets of high yield Ideas for vine beds

Summer is in full swing, the garden and dacha season is in full swing, someone has already received the first harvest, someone will have it very soon. But what if you still have untreated areas, which the equipment cannot reach now without damaging the surrounding plantings? Of course, you can just mow the grass, waiting for the next season, but you can cultivate this land by hand and have time to grow some early ripening culture (greens, radishes) on it, plant late seedlings there, or sow a radish in July for winter storage.

In this article we will tell you how to make beds in the country using only hand tools - a flat cutter, a shovel and a rake. Depending on the size of the plot, processing can take from a few minutes to several hours. The described method is suitable for small areas; its feasibility decreases with an increase in the area of ​​the site.

The reasons why the use of agricultural machinery for plowing the land is impossible or undesirable can be different. Someone is against deep plowing and destruction of the soil structure, someone is not able to hire a tractor, someone cannot fail the equipment without destroying the existing plantings or buildings. And it so happens that the deadlines are already running out, and the promised equipment does not go.

Many experienced gardeners they prefer to build, surrounded by boards or other material, but they also use similar methods when they need to master a new site, and there is no time to build reliable structures. After all, it is reasonable to first complete the planting in order to get a harvest without missing the season, and only then, while the plants are gaining strength, to improve their beds.

Instruments:

• flat cutter or other hoe-type tool
• rake
• shovel, if digging is expected

It is possible to process in this way areas left without plowing after previous seasons, overgrown weeds... Of course, this can be done with virgin soil, but in this case, this method will not be either quick or rational. The photos in this article were taken while processing a corner of the site left after harvesting potatoes the season before last. For a year and a half, nothing grew on it except weeds.

How to make beds in the country

First, we weed the area using a flat cutter or other tool (hoe, hoe, etc.) It is good to do this on a hot sunny day so that the grass wilts immediately. For especially tenacious grass (wheatgrass, wormwood, nettles, etc.), it is better to immediately chop off the root so that the weed cannot catch on to the ground and continue to grow. If the grass has already given seeds, it is better to remove it immediately. Even unripe seeds can ripen and create additional work for the future.

If the site has compost pit or a bunch, we remove the grass there. If the grass has not had time to give seeds, it can be left in the aisles as mulch and future fertilization. With a rake we rake the grass in rows approximately corresponding to the paths between the future beds.

We destroy the remnants of the grass and at the same time level out the bumps and pits. It is convenient to do this with a flat cutter. If it is planned to sow a crop in the beds that does not require deep loosening of the soil, the roots of which themselves will perfectly cope with penetration deep into the soil (dill, for example), then we simply loosen the ground with a flat cutter. It is much faster and easier in terms of labor costs than traditional digging.

If the culture requires deep loosening, we dig up the garden bed. This is the longest and most labor-intensive part of the process. Often you can do without it by replacing it with loosening with a flat cutter, without prejudice to the final result, that is, the crop.

We break or remove large lumps of earth and level the earth with a rake.

Regardless of how you loosened the ground - with a flat cutter or a shovel - it is recommended to make bumpers along the edges of the bed and, if necessary, between individual parts of the bed. This, firstly, prevents water spreading during watering. And secondly, an outside observer (and you too) will immediately see that this is a garden bed. There were cases when guests, who came to a plot with beds without sides, got up right in the middle of the garden, and after a comment they apologized and went to another bed.

That's all. The beds are ready to serve you in the struggle for the harvest. True, they do not look as impressive and well-groomed as it is customary to show in beautiful pictures, but they completely cope with the task of obtaining a harvest. And if you want it to be beautiful, then you can well start planning and implementing this venture while the harvest ripens.

New and old - why is this topic so painful for us? Some apply new techniques and get fantastic results, others look at them with envy for years, but they are in no hurry to say goodbye to the old days ...

It's better not to dig a vegetable garden!

Five years ago, I came across a book by B.S. Annenkova “Give a shovel to your neighbor! A vegetable garden without problems. " The title intrigued me and I purchased this book. In it, the author very popularly explained why it is impossible to dig the ground. Another academician V.I. Vernadsky said that the German industrialist Krupp with the release of all his weapons caused less harm to humanity than a man with a shovel and a plow!

However, until now, the Russian peasantry did not heed this statement, and to this day plows the fields with tractors, more than once a year and at least 35 cm in depth with a turnover of the earth layer, destroying all living things in the soil.

Farmers in most countries of the world have abandoned plowing and digging fields and vegetable gardens since the 50s of the last century, switched to sparing and zero tillage and the use of organic composts. At the same time, they receive harvests that are several times higher than those in the fields and gardens of Russia.

There, the blockade of bad traditions was broken, but in Russia it still has to be done. Here is an article confirming this: I tried to plant only two hundred square meters in a new way using narrow ridges and immediately noticed the difference in the amount of effort expended and the yield obtained.

At first, I also broke permanent narrow beds only for vegetables, and planted potatoes in the old fashioned way. When the vegetables were just starting to grow, it seemed that there was too much free space left, and all my relatives condemned me that I was using the land so irrationally and planted so few vegetables, they were afraid that we would be left without a crop.

By the middle of summer, the picture had changed. Due to narrow ridges and wide passages, vegetables receive more light, grow well and, over time, occupy almost everything free space... There was no longer any free land in sight. Cabbage felt especially good on narrow beds, the leaves grew large, and in order to water it, one even had to look for a place to step on. Accordingly, the harvest has pleased - and so with all crops. The relatives did not say that I had started the narrow beds in vain.

The next year, I already broke the whole vegetable garden (and I have 10 acres) into beds 45 cm wide with 65 cm spacing.We also planted the potatoes in two lines on narrow beds in checkerboard... Surprisingly, it turned out quickly, we did it in two hours. And before? ..

They planted it like this: synthetic twine was pulled on pegs on both sides of the garden bed, then they began to plant: me and my son on one side, and my daughter and son-in-law on the other. First, the son dug shallow holes, about half a bayonet of a shovel. I put the removed earth in the center of the garden, I laid out the potatoes next, sprinkling with a handful of ash. Next, the son-in-law on the other side began to dig holes, and with the excavated earth he covered our holes; the daughter also laid out the potatoes behind him. When they finished the bed, they moved the twine to the next bed, and with a rake they leveled the remaining holes with earth from the center of the bed. Due to the wide passages, the potatoes had enough light, and they did not stretch.

After disembarking, a week later, I rake through the beds, this was easy to do, since the beds are clearly visible from the paths. 10 days later, when the paths were covered with a green haze of weeds, she walked along them with a flat cutter, grabbing single weeds from both sides that had crawled out in the beds. I coped with the work several times (!) Faster than before, when planting in the usual way - after all, there was no need to weed each bush separately.

When it came time to huddle up, I stood on one path and with a hoe raked the earth with a roller to the opposite row of potatoes. Then she did the same, standing on the path from which she raked the earth, and huddled the second row in the garden. Previously, my daughter and I huddled potatoes together, since it was hard for me to cope with it alone, but now I manage to do everything myself, without waiting for my daughter, although I am already 58 years old!

The habit of digging a vegetable garden is stronger?

The harvest also made me happy. Even the neighbor looked with envy, although he continues to plant the old-fashioned way: he is already 70 years old, and, apparently, the habit is stronger than himself ... Now, thanks to narrow beds with a vegetable garden, I can cope without outside help... Only potatoes are helped to plant and dig up. Therefore, I advise you not to be afraid and transfer the potatoes to narrow beds - the harvest will delight you, and much less effort will be spent on processing!

Since I moved to narrow beds, the land has become better, earthworms have appeared.

If some kind of "substandard" comes across or in the spring there is an unused crop for the winter, I do not throw them in the trash, but use them in compost. I only take out to the trash what does not rot: iron, glass, cellophane, etc. For cleaning, I have a separate bucket in my kitchen, where I put all the waste and shells from eggs, and everything in compost.

Somehow I came across an advice to prepare compost in iron barrels, and I immediately adopted it, now it takes less space... So I advise everyone not to be afraid of the new, because in our magazine for several years now people have been writing about narrow beds, and only good things.

Also in Soviet time great attention was paid to how to harvest as much crop as possible from the same area of ​​land - i.e. rationalization of agriculture. It was then that the books of Mitlider and Ugarova were distributed, in which the main emphasis was on growing with the help of narrow beds. So, the harvest for them was really almost twice as large as with conventional methods. But the instructions of a foreign professor were often strongly corrected, which sometimes led to a disruption in the process and narrow beds did not acquire particular popularity. But today a lot has changed - and all thanks to the development of the World Wide Web. If you decide to go from quantity to quality growing in a greenhouse, the narrow bed method is just for you. After all, it is better to grow not five frail and small heads of cabbage, but two large and juicy ones, won't you agree? It will take you much less time, effort and resources, and you will not need much space in the greenhouse. What is the main advantage of narrow beds - the harvest from them turns out to be very, very solid, and this is with a comfortable ergonomic layout the greenhouse itself.

The determining factor in the direction of choosing narrow beds is usually the fact that it is much easier to care for such a greenhouse. But many are switching to this technology because of the quality of the crop - and it is really impressive.

There is such an interesting study by Professor Ovsinsky: with dense planting in a row and enhanced nutrition, the so-called "internal competition" arises, and with it, all plants begin to grow more intensively and produce large fruits. Also, less compost and fertilizers go into narrow beds, which is also not bad.

Scientists have investigated that a vegetable garden in narrow beds even has self-cleaning - all thanks to the competent activation of the process of photosynthesis, in which nitrates are converted on time and where needed. Abundant watering, proper nutrition – greenhouse vegetables in their qualities and taste, they are much superior to those that were grown under open air... Vegetables grown in narrow beds have excellent root nutrition and are not oppressed by other crops.

Even Siberian gardeners have recently started using the "narrow bed" method in their greenhouses. The whole problem was in the thickening of the space - tall vegetables in a month or two turned the greenhouse into a real jungle, and this did not affect the plants themselves in the best way. Therefore, it became a great solution: 45 cm width of the beds and the distance between them - 90 cm. No weeds in the aisles, timely harvest and almost complete immunity to diseases.

How to work properly in such beds?

Simple enough. We sow seeds on narrow beds in two rows along the sides - but not in the middle. Prepare for this in advance a mixture of filler and small seeds (large ones will need to be placed in the garden bed separately, at a distance of 3-5 cm from each other). It is necessary to sow as follows: the planting depth is exactly 2.5 times higher than the seed thickness. We also plant seedlings along the sides in rows.

Along each ridge, you need to make sides with a height of at least 10 cm.The plants themselves, depending on their type, are placed at distances between themselves 7.5 cm, 17.5 cm, 30 cm, 35 cm and 50 cm.Some plants need to be planted in a checkerboard pattern - so that there is enough space and light for them, and the largest ones only along one side.

We place fertilizers in the center of narrow ridges, filling them with a narrow strip of 10 cm - so they will not cause burns to the plants themselves. And to become available, they just need to be watered and they will dissolve.

And, finally, in vegetable growing on narrow ridges, only the ridges themselves are watered, and not the aisles - this is a good water saving and at the same time weeds control. You will notice that in the middle of these beds, they will not grow at all - due to the concentration of salts in the fertilizers. Just do not use the sprinkler system in the greenhouse - water only at the level of the soil and roots, and the seedlings will not hurt.

Arrangement of passages between beds

Interestingly, opinions on how to make narrow beds and what exactly the passage should be have long been divided: some summer residents believe that this is not an economy, that it would be possible to grow something on them. But others, more experienced, noticed that wide passages are not only convenient, but also useful for plants - they get much more lighting this way.

Growing method from J. Mittlider

The essence of growing in narrow beds according to the Meatlider method is as follows: good lighting, competent weeding, feeding and constant watering. All this, as it were, "programs" the plant for intensive growth - and the vegetables are delicious. During vegetative ripening, they do not accumulate nitrates in themselves, which is also very important. This method of growing in northern regions- after all, narrow beds need to be done in two rows from north to south, and so the plants really get maximum illumination.

If we speak as accurately as possible, then according to the Mittlider, the beds in the greenhouse should be exactly one and a half meters long, 45 cm wide and 105 cm left for the path. However, over time, such land from intensive work can become like plasticine, earthworms and other living creatures will no longer be found in it. Yes, and with the acquisition of specific microelements today is already a problem - because the market is more and more filled with complex ones, and it is not profitable to sell "mono" - there is little demand.

Let us draw the following conclusion: for many, the technology of narrow ridges according to the Mittlider is quite attractive, but at the same time, not everyone likes large doses of fertilizers with the entire periodic table in tandem. Therefore, most summer residents, as they themselves express themselves, take only the "geometry" they like, but in practice they use organic farming.

Growing method according to Ugarova

Yes, the Meatlider method has its drawbacks: those who used it from A to Z argue that after a year or two, the ground in the greenhouse becomes like dust - completely lifeless, although the crops themselves may well at the same time please. And all due to the fact that this method of growing uses a lot mineral substances, while organic farming has long gained popularity all over the world. But you can take the idea of ​​narrow beds, and at the same time grow on them as you see fit. Moreover, it was not only Jacob Meatlider who developed such a scheme - today even such a method as “Meatlider-Ugarovoy” is in demand, where methods from the book “Family vegetable growing in narrow beds” are also used.

"Rustic" growing method

Here's how you can successfully work in narrow beds using organic farming technology:

1. In the fall, as soon as the greenhouse is cleaned, we sprinkle rotted manure with peat on the beds - a layer of 5-7 centimeters. We water all this with Baikal.
2. In the spring we water such beds hot water with Baikal, we do not dig, only slightly align.
3. We plant seeds and cover with foil until germination, then with a special covering material.
4. We fill the row spacing with gravel, which works as drainage ditches.

And here's how to make the narrow beds themselves without sides:

• Step 1. Prepare in advance wooden pegs up to 5 cm in cross section and up to 45 cm long. Sharpen them at one end. You will need 4 pegs for each bed.
• Step 2. Divide the greenhouse area into separate sections, where the beds will be. Drive the pegs into the ground, marking 4 corners of each narrow ridge. The passages between them should remain about a meter.
• Step 3. Pull the cords from peg to peg.

This completes the process.

How to grow tomatoes in narrow beds?

Here's how to grow tomatoes in narrow ridges. We divide the greenhouse with a width of 3 meters with a half-meter passage - into equal parts. In each of them, using boards, we make narrow ridges 45 cm wide and 80 cm apart. In total, you get exactly 8 narrow beds. It is desirable that their height is 15 cm. Tomatoes are planted in one row with a step of 20 cm. But not only tomatoes need to be planted - do this: a bed of peppers, a bed of tomatoes, a bed of peppers, and so on. This is good for both crops.

According to the rules, from the beginning of June until the very harvest, the rows must remain free so that the rows of tomatoes and peppers are illuminated to the maximum. We do watering and fertilizing only in the ridges, if we loosen the earth, then only very shallowly. During the season, we spray it several times with potash fertilizers, a solution of urea and ash.

By the way, Siberian gardeners grow tomatoes in one or two stems, pinching after the appearance of 8-9 brushes. The land is changed often, removing a layer of 6-8 cm in narrow ridges and replacing it with soil from under cucumbers.

But now - the main plus: there is much less work on narrow beds. There are almost no weeds, the plants do not get sick, it is easy to water with a regular watering can. And sowing is extremely simple and quick - what is not the dream of every summer resident?

I work, so I can go to the summer cottage only on weekends... In this case, you need to rest after working week, eat a barbecue, take a steam bath, and do a little work on the ground. Currently, there are several problems in horticulture: soil fertility is declining. The earth becomes dense, depleted and has grey colour... A drop in fertility leads to a decrease in the harvest.

The use of mineral fertilizers and pesticides leads to contamination of soil, water, air and food, which leads to human diseases. Traditional agricultural techniques used by most gardeners are very laborious. And this reduces interest in gardening among young people.

Nevertheless, all these problems can be easily solved if instead of traditional farming, Natural... Such agricultural technology not only preserves, it also restores soil fertility. The result is an increase in yield horticultural crops... Mineral fertilizers are not used, which preserves the purity of Nature and preserves human health. A number of gardening operations in natural agricultural technology are used less frequently than in traditional ones. And some are completely absent from it. All this reduces the labor intensity of land cultivation and plant care.

In my opinion, it is more important to return to nature and forget the postulate that the soil should be stuffed with fertilizers, torn with shovels and sprinkled with pesticides. Natural farming- this is, first of all, gentle tillage, protecting it from temperature extremes, returning nutrients, which the earth generously gave to the plants.

Every spring, when we come to our summer cottage, we sow or plant vegetables in our beds. The size of the beds is from 1.4 meters to 2 meters wide, the paths between them are from 20 cm to 40 cm maximum. It is called traditional way planting vegetables to the garden.

The plant in such beds, especially in the middle, often gets sick, is subject to decay, it does not develop well, the vegetables are small, they are not stored for a long time. But for pests, a weakened plant and good nutrition, and offspring can be laid near it. To weed, to process such beds is one torment.

But on such a bed, I saw one positive side. The extreme plants, relative to those located in the middle, looked more worthy. The larger ones are not susceptible to disease and are convenient to weed, thin out, etc.

I also thought about one more factor. A single tree along the alleys within the city, no one feeds it, the foliage that it throws off, and then they try to remove it for appearance and beauty. Although this foliage could serve as a tree feeding. So how does this tree exist and where does it get its nourishment? Per last years scientists have found that about 60% of the plant takes food from the air. It's interesting, of course.

The unpredictability of our Far Eastern climate, high temperature fluctuations, night and day, dry or rainy summers, excessive precipitation by the end of August and the beginning of September confirmed the methods of growing vegetables that I have chosen over many years of trial and error. I came to the conclusion that we need to look for another method that is less time consuming, but at the same time with the ability to get higher yields.

I have combined two technologies.

1. "Narrow ridges - a unique technology of vegetable growing for small areas."
2. "Agrotechnics of natural farming".

I have become firmly convinced that it is organic matter that can reveal all the possibilities of plants, saving time and energy.... Only on good compost can one see and evaluate the quality of Western and domestic varieties: most of them are created for organic soil... I am sure: we cannot get away from organic matter.

All in all, business: learning how to compost and also arrange stationary beds - once for many years.

Vegetable growing on narrow ridges was developed by J. Meatlider in the 70s of the last century and brought by the author to Russia in 1989.

But blind copying of techniques and advice, even the best, will lead nowhere. There must be a creative approach to understanding the biological laws of the culture itself, and the processes occurring during its cultivation. Meatlider has one drawback (this is my opinion) when using mineral fertilizers, the taste of the fruit is unnatural. To fix this, instead of mineral dressings, I use humus, ash, manure, herbal infusion, etc. (I am a supporter of organic fertilizers).

I am for a clean ecological product.

But one should not perceive mineral fertilizer as a poison. The only thing is to keep the dose. It is better not to feed the plant than to overfeed it.

For which I am especially grateful to J. Meatlider - for the development of narrow beds. Although Meatlider does not recommend putting the box on narrow beds, I did put together boxes. Nature itself told me this. In the spring, many summer cottages floods, the water does not have time to drain, there is water in the passages. We have the same problem in late August and early September - it rains day and night. And in the middle of summer it can rain for 2 - 3 days, or it can fill the whole garden in half an hour.

Therefore, raising the bed 15-25 cm above the path- solves this problem. The width of the ridge is 60 - 100 cm., the length is arbitrary. The gap between the beds is 60 - 80 cm. It only seems that the ground in the aisles is walking without benefit. It is the passages that work, and how!

A vegetable container is high bed, the walls of which are made of bricks, logs, beams, boards, stone, slate... The beds stretch from north to south. The passages between them can be covered with sand, sawdust, roofing felt, etc. I preferred the lawn, which I cut once a month with a trimmer. I covered some passages with sawdust. The beauty of the garden leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful.

Box - the box is filled with organic matter. Down put plant residues(grass, straw, foliage), then compost or manure, or spill with herbal infusions and the like; v upper layer put the earth from the aisles. Thus, the box is filled.

Each bed is 2 rows of vegetables, planted along the edges in a checkerboard pattern between the vegetables. In this geometry, a huge productivity reserve is hidden, it has long been noticed: the extreme plant develops almost twice as well as those in the middle - they have much more light and space for growth. And here - all the plants are extreme. A wide aisle is needed in order to give them light and space. A small area of ​​organic matter gives more than a large area of ​​soil. Anyone who has worked for at least one season on narrow ridges, is convinced of the enormous possibilities of this method and simply cannot return to traditional technology... Working on the ridges, a person experiences joy not only from good harvest, but also from the very process of growing vegetables.

The beauty of the vegetable garden, which looks more like a park, leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful.

In two rows staggered I plant cabbage, eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, etc.
In four or three rows I plant onions, garlic, beets, salads, radishes, carrots, etc.

disadvantages

Requires material costs in the first year for the construction of the garden. This tiny flaw makes the container inaccessible to most summer residents.

Such a bed has been working for several years, one might say forever.(replenish it with waste, plant residues, foliage, etc.).

• After digging, sow green manure.
• When planting, you do not need to add compost or rotted manure into the hole. Such a bed is itself compost.
• The humus is not washed out, since the garden bed is fenced.
• According to many agronomists, 60 - 80% of the plant is fed from the air, therefore large passages play a significant role in the biological process of the plant. The culture receives good light and sufficient air flow.

About 30% of the plant is fed from the ground. Naturally, the consumption of organic and mineral fertilizers on a narrow bed is 2 times less than a standard bed. At the same time, you will get a much higher yield from a narrow bed. I've tested this for several years and you can see it in my photos.
Contains a large amount of nutrients, moisture reserve.

The advantages of narrow beds

• Watering is convenient.
• No stagnant water.
• Does not require hilling.
• Does not require weeding - if the bed is mulched.
• Does not require digging, only loosening by 7 - 10 cm.
• Can be produced early landing, since the beds in the spring warm up faster than usual.
• In narrow beds, it is easy to rotate. Where you planted onions last year, this year you can plant carrots or cabbage.
• The yield increases by 100% or more.
• Tubers, root crops are clean with no visible signs of disease.
• Beautiful and easy to use.
• Takes up a minimum of space, does not create dirt and clutter.

It is very convenient to make a shelter with plastic arches, which are sold in seed shops... We put 2 pegs on both sides of the bed and put an arc on them. The distance between the arcs is about a meter. Depending on the length of the bed, you set the right amount arcs. Covering material or film can be used over the arcs until the threat of frost has passed.

This narrow bed system allows me to get consistently high yields., independent of the vagaries of the weather and the conditions of the site itself.

Isn't it great? And this is even considering that Igor lives in the Khabarovsk Territory, in Komsomolsk-on-Amur!
And we are told the zone of risky farming, the zone of risky farming :))

Creation of a bed-box.

At the request of many of my friends, I will tell you how I make a garden. A vegetable container is a high bed, the walls of which are made of bricks, logs, beams, boards, stone, slate. The beds stretch from north to south.

In the photo you will see the bed is made of logs. The logs remained after the houses were dismantled, they were not taken into construction, since the core rotted away, but they will go for the garden.

We prepare a flat area.

We lay the logs firmly in the ground, you can even deepen it a little. Width from 80 - 120 cm, it all depends on climatic conditions the hotter, the wider the bed.

The length is arbitrary.

We knock down the logs between ourselves with nails or screws.

I put cardboard on the bottom so that a perennial weed does not develop ...

... as well as pests such as beetles, wireworms, etc.

We put coarse plant residues of corn, sunflower, etc.

Moreover, it is necessary to paint or whitewash. Now paint on water based for facades. This is so that the sun does not heat the earth and insects will gnaw less, and most importantly, the beauty of the garden.

Then I put the plant residues of other crops, carrots, cabbage, potato tops, tomato, etc. Whether they are infected with diseases or not. Effective microorganisms will process all sores. You can not lay down a perennial weed. I don't use Baikal and the like.

Igor Lyadov uses 4 types of top dressing tinctures

1. I believe that every farmer can independently prepare microbial preparations for himself, almost as diverse in composition as the EO crops sold, but from their own local microbes adapted to the climate and soil, which would be more environmentally friendly and practical.

We offer a practical, simple and cheap way to restore soil fertility and increase plant productivity.

Considering that the main component of EO is yeast and lactic acid bacteria, which are already enough in the soil and around us, we suggest using ordinary sugar-yeast mash as a ferment for organic infusions.

The infusion is being prepared. A 200-liter container (barrel) contains:

Shovel of wood or grass ash;
- half a bucket of manure or dung;
- a bucket of rotten straw or leaf litter;
- a shovel of humus, compost or just garden soil;
- a shovel of sand;
- a liter of whey or yogurt;
- 3 liters of mash!

The brew is prepared like this:

for 3 liters of non-chlorinated water, 5 tbsp is taken. tablespoons of sugar and a pinch of yeast. It wanders for 2-3 days, then it is added to the general tank. Before use, store the mash in the refrigerator - it is valuable until it sours.

In the common tank, the whole bodyag is infused for a week. Sometimes it should be mixed. When used, the infusion is diluted at least twice. (Yuri I. Slashchinin)

2. In a 200 liter barrel I put 2/3 of the barrel of weed grass.(you can add ash 2 shovels). I fill it with water, cover it with a film on top. It is insisted for two weeks. When using the infusion, I dilute 1 to 10.

3. I put fresh manure into a 200 liter barrel, 1/3 of the barrel. I fill it with water. It is insisted for two weeks. When using the infusion, I dilute 1 to 10.

4. In a 200 liter barrel I put chicken manure, 1/3 of the barrel. I fill it with water. It is insisted for two weeks. When using the infusion, I dilute 1 to 20.

10. SOME TIPS FOR GARDENING ON NARROW RIDES

1. Do not try to raise the surface of the ridges above the surface of the walkways. The surface of the ridge between the side ridges of the earth should be level with the surface of the passages. Otherwise, in hot periods, the soil of the raised ridges will dry out faster and require frequent watering. It makes sense to slightly raise the ridges only in places with a very high bedding groundwater... In the same place, where the occurrence of groundwater is low, the ridges growing from the introduction of compost in spring and autumn in 5-6 years will even have to fall apart, leveling the plane of the garden. Of course, this will need to be done in the fall, after the harvest, and leave the ridges in their original places.

2. Do not tempt yourself to plant and plant crops in a narrow ridge in more than two rows. It is possible to place a third row in the middle of the ridge only for very early crops, for example, for radishes, which will be harvested 25-30 days after sowing and will not compete with the main crops in the future.

3. If the soil of the plot is very dense and heavy (clay), then in the fall, before adding compost to the ridges, you can sow winter rye seeds in them. Only one plant of this culture creates in the soil during its growing season root system total length more than a few hundred kilometers. Soil organisms, eating these roots, will loosen the soil to a greater depth and make it looser. You don't need a shovel or a plow for this. In the spring, one and a half to two weeks before the sowing or planting of crops, compost is introduced into the ridge, right along the rye seedlings, the entire ridge is loosened with a Fokin flat cutter and watered with a solution of the EM-preparation. You do not need to try to embed all the rye greens into the soil, it is even useful for some of it to remain on the surface.

4. Earth rolls along the sides of the ridges can be different reasons collapse. They need to be restored regularly by adding earth from the aisles.

5. Weeds appearing in the aisles should be cut with a flat cutter at soil level and collected in compost heaps. Cutting at soil level inhibits the root system of the plant, and after a few cuts it dies. Cutting below the soil level leads to damage to the roots, from the cuts of which not one weed grows later, but several. You need it? Some weeds, such as dandelion, produce phytoncides that protect cultivated plants from pests and diseases. It is advisable to cut such weeds at the beginning of their flowering, but not later than the formation of seeds.

6. When planning a garden on narrow ridges, you retreated from all edges of the garden plot by 100 cm. It is advisable to occupy this area with aromatic and medicinal herbs- mint, lafant, lovage, parsley, coriander, calendula and others. These herbs with their phytoncides will protect the garden from many pests.

7. When planting chives, orient the ribs of the chives north or south. The garlic tops are spread in one plane in the form of a fan. This fan will be oriented with its plane from north to south. At the same time, each leaf of the fan will receive the longest possible during daylight hours solar lighting, the plant will be able to take more food from the soil and air and will pour larger teeth and a head.

8. Peduncles of garlic when they come out of the bosom top sheet 10-15 cm, you need to cut it off. Then the teeth and head will become larger. Cut stalks can be pickled, salted, preserved. It is necessary to leave 5-6 peduncles on the ridge, they will give a signal to harvest the garlic. This must be done no later than a week and a half after the wrapper of the peduncles bursts. If you remove the garlic later than this period, then the onion wrapper may burst. Such garlic is poorly stored, and during harvesting, some of it may remain in the soil. The inflorescence bulbs can be used to rejuvenate the garlic culture. For this, they need to be sown into the soil at the same time when the cloves are planted. In order for the bulbs to become larger, the garlic plants need to be dug up and hung with the inflorescence down in a place where they would not be exposed to direct sun rays... You need to divide the bulbs on the day of sowing.

9. It is useful to soak chives, bulbs and seedlings before planting for 25-30 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon of vitriol in a bucket of water). It will protect planting material from the effects of putrefactive bacteria, which are always in the soil.

10. When selecting potato tubers for planting, select them from those nests where there were more tubers in number. Select those with more eyes. The size of the tubers should be about the size of an average chicken egg.

11. In order to ensure good winter storage of potatoes, harvest them no later than August 20. As a rule, after this period the development of late blight begins, the potatoes infected with it are poorly stored. The tops of potatoes harvested before August 20 can be used for laying in compost heaps.

12. It is useful to plant several plants of garlic, onion and dill between the plants of tomatoes and cucumbers. By periodically cutting off the feathers of these crops, you will saturate the atmosphere of greenhouses with phytoncides of these plants, which will protect the main crops from some diseases and pests. Pepper does not like the presence of any aromatic herbs and vegetables nearby.

13. To disinfect the soil of greenhouses, it is useful to sow mustard seeds in it in the fall after harvesting. And then proceed in the same way as it was recommended when sowing winter rye.

14. Even in the Bible it was said: "Do not sow your field with two kinds of seeds." It has been noticed, for example, that if two potato tubers of different varieties are planted side by side, then one pea will be in one nest or in both nests. Plants of different genera (varieties) have a bad effect on each other. Plant and sow different varieties of potatoes and different varieties of other crops in different beds.

16. It is useful to take one row of a narrow ridge with carrots, and the second row - onions... These plants will protect each other from carrot and onion flies. They are not antagonists and grow well on the same ridge.