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Crop rotation is one of the most important agrotechnical rules, which is an indispensable condition for obtaining a good harvest. The alternation of crops in the garden should be carried out taking into account the predecessor, the state of the soil (acidity, fertility level, moisture capacity, etc.) and the phytosanitary situation (whether outbreaks of fungal diseases or the mass spread of pests were observed). To improve and improve the condition of the soil, it is recommended to include green manure in the crop rotation.
Competent crop rotation significantly reduces the risk of plant damage by various diseases, the process of accumulation of pests in the soil, and also increases soil fertility and provides a more complete use of useful substances in the soil by plants.
When vegetables are planted in the same places in a row for several years, soil infections accumulate in the soil with a gradual depletion of the soil.
The task of changing planting sites is to ensure that previous crops prepare the ground for subsequent ones. This takes into account the economic and economic component. For example, it is rational to plant after early vegetables that free up the site at the end of summer. winter garlic or rye, like green manure. And vice versa, it is physically impossible to carry out early spring sowing in the garden after late-harvested crops.
It is also important to take into account the peculiarities of tillage for each crop (in particular, the depth of digging) and the structure of the root system. Garden crops with a deeply penetrating tap root system are planted after crops with a superficially located fibrous root system.
Experienced summer residents begin preparations for the summer season in advance. After placing vegetable crops on the beds in the previous year, a plan for their detailed location is drawn up. This work can be done on a sheet of graph paper and in a special country notebook. You should not rely on your memory, because in 2-3 years everything will be messed up, and the crop rotation cycle should have 5 years (ideally, it is advisable to return each crop to its original place after 5 seasons).
Having a plan of our site, we distribute crops in the beds according to the principle of "coexistence". For example, it is not recommended to place eggplant and tomatoes, cucumber and radish, beets and beans on neighboring beds. Good neighbors will be onions and carrots, cucumber and corn, white cabbage and beets. Zucchini and pepper coexist with all cultures.
Since potatoes are often cultivated continuously, it is necessary to use winter green manure crops (for example, winter rye) to restore fertility and improve the soil. We divide the plot into two parts: we allocate one for early potato varieties, the other for late ones. In the second year, we sow the part of the site vacated after early potatoes with green manure and next year we occupy it with late varieties. So it turns out a simplified version of crop rotation.
It is very convenient to use a pre-prepared crop rotation scheme for 5 years in advance. Below is an example of a scheme for our site with 16 beds for the main crops. It is also worth marking on which bed and in what year fresh manure was introduced.
bed number | 1st year | 2nd year | 3rd year | 4th year | 5th year |
1 | carrot | corn | cucumber | onion | radish and daikon |
2 | onion | White cabbage | green | zucchini | |
3 | White cabbage | beet | tomatoes | cucumber | peas |
4 | beet | zucchini | onion | peas | pepper |
5 | garlic | carrot | zucchini | tomatoes | beet |
6 | tomatoes | onion | pumpkin | carrot | eggplant |
7 | pepper | radish and daikon | garlic | zucchini | tomatoes |
8 | greens (lettuce, dill, parsley) | green | corn | radish and daikon | cucumber |
9 | radish and daikon | pumpkin | pepper | beet | corn |
10 | zucchini | eggplant | beans | garlic | pumpkin |
11 | beans | pepper | radish and daikon | beans | carrot |
12 | eggplant | cucumber | beet | corn | beans |
13 | pumpkin | garlic | peas | pepper | White cabbage |
14 | peas | tomatoes | White cabbage | pumpkin | garlic |
15 | cucumber | peas | carrot | eggplant | onion |
16 | corn | beans | eggplant | White cabbage | green |
Implement all the requirements of crop rotation in practice under conditions limited area actually very difficult.
But there are 3 blunders that should not be allowed:
It is imperative to take into account the compatibility of cultures when planting closely, but sometimes an undesirable neighborhood can become inevitable. In our example, an eggplant bed is adjacent to tomatoes, which is undesirable from the point of view of the spread of diseases, but the plants themselves do not oppress each other.
When drawing up a crop rotation scheme for vegetable crops, it is necessary to take into account when manure was introduced on the site. For example, root crops planted after fresh manure application will have a twisted, ugly shape, and the fruits themselves will have poor taste.
It is recommended to apply fresh manure for cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkin. Therefore, these crops should go first in the crop rotation after filling the soil with fresh organic matter. Potatoes in this case can be planted only in the third year.
When planning a crop rotation, it is necessary to comply with the condition - vegetables are planted at intervals of 3 to 4 years in the former places belonging to the same family, and the longer this period is, the better.
The exceptions are: potatoes, strawberries, beans, which can be planted for years in the same place, provided there are no specialized pests and a high degree of disease development.
At small area gardens, most summer residents are forced to plant individual crops in a permanent place, especially for potatoes, which occupy the most large area.
It is accepted in agricultural technology next distribution major horticultural crops for individual main families:
To prevent one-sided depletion of the soil, planting of plants is alternated, taking into account what nutrients they require. In a greatly simplified form, this is an alternation of tops and roots (for example, carrots are planted after cabbage or tomatoes).
After garlic and onions, planting any crops is allowed, but re-sowing them in one place is highly undesirable.
Each crop uses a certain amount to form a crop. nutrients while releasing into the soil toxic substances as a waste product. Toxins can accumulate and inhibit other vegetable plants. With this in mind, each species can be grown after certain crops. The following table provides recommendations for choosing a predecessor.
Planting culture | Antecedent cultures | ||
Recommended | Allowed | Ruled out | |
Potato | Pumpkin, legumes, cabbage and cauliflower | Beets, corn, carrots, onions | tomatoes, peppers, eggplant |
Garlic, onion | Tomato, white cabbage and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin | Pepper, eggplant, corn | Onion garlic |
tomatoes | Pumpkin, legumes, cabbage | Beets, onions, garlic | Potato, physalis, tobacco, pepper, eggplant |
Cucumber, pumpkin, squash, zucchini | Peas, beans, early potatoes, early white cabbage and cauliflower | Greens, tomatoes | Pumpkin |
Peas, beans, beans | Cucumber, pumpkin, potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes | Corn | |
Carrot | White cabbage, tomatoes, legumes, onion, cucumber | Garlic, eggplant, pepper | Root parsley, celery |
Green and aromatic spices | Cabbage, pumpkin, legumes | Onions, tomatoes, beets | Parsnips, carrots |
eggplant, pepper | Pumpkin, cabbage, legumes | Beets, green | Nightshade |
Table beets | Early potatoes, cucumber, tomatoes, early white cabbage | Onion | Carrots, beets |
Cabbage | Beets, cucumber, onion, potatoes, tomatoes | carrot, pepper | Beet, turnip, radish, radish, daikon |
vegetable corn | Beets, carrots, green | ||
Radish and daikon | Undemanding to predecessor | cruciferous |
On small garden plots it is important to obtain the largest possible yield per unit area. One of the expedient methods of achieving this is the joint cultivation, re-sowing and previous sowing of green manure, allowing several horticultural crops to be cultivated on the same area during one season.
Many vegetable crops ripen from one to three months after sowing. And the seeds of carrots, parsley, parsnips, the first 30-40 days grow very slowly, taking up little space in the garden. The unused area can be successfully used for compact crops.
Re-sowing can be done after harvest early varieties potatoes and cabbage, which are harvested already in early June. Previous crops can be located on the planned planting sites for seedlings or heat-loving plants that are planted about a month later.
Related Articles
Do not grow after carrots, parsnips, fennel, parsley, scorzonera. Grows well after early potatoes, cabbage.
legumes
cabbage
When planting vegetable crops, you need to focus on the size of the root system so that the plants do not become competitors in the fight for moisture and nutrients. The same applies to the sizes of ground parts. For many gardeners use chemicals is under strict prohibition. Such gardeners prefer to use various tricks that allow you to disorientate the enemy. We will talk about some of them in this article.
Carrots, although the culture is not picky, but when growing it, you need to know some nuances, in particular, crop rotation rules (a certain alternation of crops). Putting them into practice, gardeners have found that orange root crops get sick less, are practically not damaged by pests, and grow quite large. Some crops cannot be planted, for example, after potatoes, others cannot tolerate predecessors such as cucumbers. Today we will talk about the best and worst predecessors for carrots.
Pumpkin
You can not grow after radishes, turnips. Grows well after cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes.
The best precursors of garlic are early cauliflower and white cabbage.
You can plant onions on turnips and potatoes on the same ridge for early summer harvesting. Then, after the potatoes are removed, the onions will also be able to give a decent harvest.
Very often, to increase the yield are used chemical fertilizers and other means, although it is worth providing vegetables with the right neighbors and they will give a good harvest without chemistry.
If it is planned to simultaneously grow turnips, carrots, beets, onions, garlic on the site, then it should be remembered that the edible part of these plants is formed not on the surface, but underground, and their ground parts are approximately the same size, so competition may also go underground and on its surface.
After these same plants, it is good to plant zucchini, pumpkin.
The list of the best predecessors for carrots is not that long. It includes 5 titles:
You can not grow after melon, cucumbers, peppers. Grows well after cabbage, root crops, potatoes, green crops.
glav-dacha.ru
Eggplant.
My garlic does not like the neighborhood with dill. And with strawberries too. Will never grow large.
If in the previous summer potatoes grew in the beds for winter storage, cabbage for pickling for the winter or peas and beans, then the onion yield will be lower. These cultures are acceptable, but not the best
Informative video about joint planting of vegetable crops:
To protect root crops, farmers used many different methods. As a result, a list of the most effective measures was compiled.
tomatoes;
Beans.
You can not grow after pepper, tomato. It grows well after early white and cauliflower, legumes, cucumbers.
Everyone knows that you should not grow the same crop in a permanent place, but rather swap them. But what to plant after what? Which predecessors are preferable for a particular crop, and then you should not grow them?
predecessors
This article is not a call to action, this article is information for reflection and adaptation to conditions own garden or garden.
Turnips, radishes and radishes grow wonderfully next to peas, nasturtium, spinach. Good neighbors for onions and garlic will be, first of all, strawberries.
Cannot be grown after legumes. The best predecessors are the same as those of legumes.
Luckily for us, our ancestors have developed a number of rules and recommendations over the years of observation. Below are the rules for the main crops grown in the middle lane.
pumpkins
Most gardeners most areas are set aside for planting potatoes. On six acres, it is difficult to annually allocate a new plot for this crop, but with the conditional division of the territory into four zones, you can move the potato bed to a new place.
Garlic.
Cannot be grown after peas. They grow well after potatoes, early and medium ripeness of white and cauliflower, tomatoes, root crops.
Parsley, dill, basil, cilantro, other green crops and herbs coexist next to asparagus, peas and onions. The best predecessors for them will be cabbage and cucumbers, and the worst - carrots.
eggplant
The best predecessors are tomatoes and cucumber.
Sometimes it happens that it is not possible to fulfill the above recommendations in a garden or cottage. Siderats will come to the rescue here.
peas
Carrots do not like the neighborhood with horseradish. And on the beds where horseradish grew, it is better not to sow it.
In the article “Plants protect plants”, I told that our garden pets are able to secrete phytoncides, which are designed to protect plants from large and small pests. They are also able to protect against other plants.
Green manures are crops that can be both predecessors and neighbors for vegetables at the same time. They improve the soil with their roots and ground part, enriching it naturally with useful organic and mineral substances.
The best neighbors for tomatoes are:
beans
Many gardeners have empirically come to the conclusion that some plants feel very comfortable next to each other, grow and develop well.
According to numerous studies, this rotation of crops allows the most appropriate distribution of nutrients in the ground. Therefore, a novice gardener simply needs to know how to plant carrots.
You can not grow after pumpkin, beets, scorzonera. Grows well after tomatoes, cabbage, radishes, early potatoes.
Good to grow after potatoes, tomatoes.
Although carrots love the soil on which cabbage grew, they do not like cabbage in the neighboring garden. This is dislike from water - it needs little carrots, and a lot of cabbage. Cabbage can grow in almost wet soil, like my father's. You can only walk along the aisles of the beds in galoshes. And the whole carrot will crack.
When a bush was planted in a hole, they gave him the right to occupy a certain piece of land. Given that each plant is an aggressor that seeks to occupy as much area as possible with itself or its offspring, then it should be understood that it can achieve this not only by the height of the upper leaves.
Siderates planted among vegetables partially distract pests, such as radish repel nematodes, and mustard successfully inhibits scab.
Others, being close to each other, grow slowly, get sick, give a poor harvest, so thinking joint landings vegetables, the influence of neighbors should be taken into account.
Beet.
Beets are very tolerant of both the root crop and the plants that grew on its ridges before.
Each root can leave certain substances in the soil that are not always and not all plants like. This is during the growing season. And then, after harvesting, a lot of things remain in the soil.
OgorodSadovod.com
The following crops can play the role of green manure:
Melissa
legumes
cabbage
For the successful cultivation of vegetable crops in summer cottages and garden plots, it is important to take into account many factors, adhere to some elements of crop rotation and the right useful neighborhood.
If the condition is not possible to fulfill, then you can carefully loosen the ground with a chopper and spill it with a steep solution of potassium permanganate. The above manipulations should be done immediately before sowing carrots, and best of all in the fall. This action will help reduce in the future the likelihood of developing diseases of root crops and their damage by pests.
1. For example, for tomatoes, eggplants and peppers, early cabbage and cauliflower are the best predecessors. Acceptable predecessor onions for turnips, root crops, late cabbage.
Good to grow after potatoes, cucumbers, onions. She helps her neighbors. There are a lot of anthocyanins in beets, they not only protect the beets themselves, but will help protect neighboring ones from fungal sores and viruses. It goes well with leafy crops.
Because
legumes - vetch, chin, soy
marigolds
Do not place cabbage after turnips and radishes.
salad
This approach is beneficial and convenient because:
.2. For turnip onions or sets, the best predecessors are cucumbers, tomatoes, early white cabbage, early potatoes. Legumes, late cabbage and potatoes are acceptable predecessors. Do not grow after eggplant, pumpkin. It grows well after early white and cauliflower, legumes, cucumbers.
Turnip onion.
Before beets, it is better to grow cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, early cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes and peas with beans. But late cabbage is not a very good predecessor, rather acceptable.
predecessors
cereals - oats, barley, paisa
beans
Any onion will be the best neighbor for cabbage. This applies to both white and other types of cabbage:
Unacceptable predecessors are pepper, tomato, eggplant.
prevents the accumulation of harmful substances in the soil
However, it is impossible to say that this method will completely protect carrots from external influences.
3. Garlic. For him, the best predecessors are the same as for onions, except for potatoes. Permissible is the same as for onions, except for potatoes.
Radish, radish.
Cannot be grown after garlic. Grows well after early cabbage, cucumbers, early potatoes, green crops.
You can grow cucumbers and beets on the same bed, it will protect them well.
It's not just plants of other species. Usually they will write that it is impossible to grow potatoes after tomatoes, because diseases accumulate. It really is. But, deeper little things that do not lie on the surface are very poorly visible to us.
cruciferous - colza, radish, mustard
moyatepliza.ru
cabbage
broccoli
The best neighbors for potatoes are always legumes, this is primarily due to the need of this crop for nitrogen, which legumes have adapted to receive from the air and transform into the form necessary for potatoes and enrich the soil with it. Contributes to the full use of fertilizers
Now it’s worth talking about what vegetables are allowed to be planted after carrots. As they say experienced gardeners, different varieties of peppers and tomatoes will feel good in such a place. You can also consider planting white cabbage different term ripening or lettuce. On small plots of land, it is difficult to follow the rules of crop rotation, so many summer residents plant only those vegetables that are more needed and grow well on their site. 4. Cucumbers. The best predecessor is early white and cauliflower. A valid predecessor is tomatoes, potatoes, legumes, except beans, root crops, except carrots, since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumbers.
You can not grow after cabbage, corn. Grows well after cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, onions. Tomatoes.
Cucumbers should not be grown near plantings berry bushes, wild strawberries and tomatoes. Cucumbers are often affected powdery mildew, currants, gooseberries and tomatoes can become infected from them. Therefore, tomatoes and cucumbers should not be grown in the same greenhouse. Cabbage - amazing plant, she herself does not interfere with anyone, after it you can grow almost all vegetables. Apparently, cabbage does not emit phytoncides.
As neighbors for vegetable crops, green manure can be planted as follows: Such neighbors are also favorable for eggplant and pepper.
kohlrabi For cucumbers, the best predecessors:
reduces pest and disease control costs If the soil is depleted after carrots (this phenomenon occurs very often), then agronomists recommend building a dung bed in the right area and planting cucumbers in it. In 1-2 years, the earth will return to normal.
5. Carrot. The best predecessor is early potatoes, cabbage, green crops, lettuce cream, which is sick as well as carrots with white rot. Lettuce.
You can not grow after potatoes, physalis. Grows well after early cabbage, cucumbers. A good neighbor and predecessor for rhubarb cucumbers. He himself is a very healthy vegetable, and helps others stay healthy.
Cabbage can drown out the plantings of other crops with its power. A seed has risen in the hole, the sprout does not swagger, it grows rapidly. So quickly that it becomes dark under the huge cabbage leaves, other plants cannot compete. This vegetable is a biennial crop. The following summer, when the surviving head of cabbage is planted for gardening, cabbage also quickly grows in size and oppresses the surrounding quinoa and radish. Place early-ripening green manure among vegetables that grow for a long time.
If we analyze the options for the joint cultivation of the main vegetables, we can conclude that the plants of the same family are unfavorably adjacent to each other.
potatoes Fully allows you to use any soil
We add that in the place where cucumbers grew, an orange vegetable cannot be planted for at least 2 years. This is explained by the fact that after this crop, the land is saturated with organic matter, which carrots do not tolerate very well. 6. Beet. The best predecessor of cucumbers and others gourd plants, potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes, all legumes. Acceptable predecessor late cabbage.
You can not grow after chicory, endive. Grows well after early potatoes, cabbage. Cucumbers.
For cucumbers, it is better to take beds on which early cauliflower and white cabbage were grown. The potato is just a valid precursor. It doesn't seem to need any other way to suppress its neighbors.
In row spacing and between rows with vegetable crops. Solanaceae, potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, it is better not to place nearby, as this increases the rivalry for nitrogen in the soil and the likelihood of planting damage by the Colorado potato beetle.
redhead tomatoes
In ideal it is necessary to draw up a planting plan annually, taking into account the crop - the predecessor, former and future neighbors, soil quality, last year's application of organic and mineral fertilizers, geographical location site and its landscape. Why is it important to alternate plantings? The fact is that both vegetable and berry crops tend to take certain trace elements from the earth. If, for example, carrots are planted in the same place, the land will eventually be depleted and will not be suitable for growing any crops. In addition, if a vegetable grows in a certain area from year to year, insects begin to settle in the ground, which will harm this particular crop.
7. Potato. Cucumbers and other pumpkin, cabbage, legumes are best suited. You can root vegetables and onions. Celery.
You can not grow after zucchini, pumpkin. Grow well after early white and cauliflower, potatoes, early onions.
After white early cabbage, peppers and eggplants grow well. Tomatoes also like the former cabbage beds. She is the best predecessor.
At the end of the garden season after harvest.
This also applies to other families to which the main garden vegetables belong, since plants of the same family have similar nutrient requirements and suffer from the same diseases.
Planting tomatoes is best done after:
legumes
This is important, for example, after a recent manure application, many crops may simply not produce a crop, while others will not bear fruit on poor organic soil.
What to plant after? Competent planning crops
Rotation table
When planning future crops, it is necessary first of all to take into account sequence of cultures. This is very important for the future harvest. After all, the correct crop rotation allows you to avoid damage by pests and diseases, as well as maintain soil fertility. Conversely, when growing the same vegetables for several years in a row, the supply of nutrients in the beds is depleted and soil infections accumulate.
Experienced gardeners always take this factor into account, which allows them to get more high yields. In order not to get confused in the "five acres", it is worth drawing a plan for your garden for the coming summer and rough plan landings for next year, observing correct order rotation of vegetable crops.
It is impossible to plant cabbage and other cruciferous plants (radish, radish) in the same place earlier than in 2-3 years. White cabbage is best placed after potatoes, tomatoes, onions; planting after beans, peas, carrots and beets is acceptable.
The best predecessors for potatoes are cabbage and various root crops. A bad predecessor for potatoes is a tomato, since these crops have common pests and pathogens. Growing potatoes in the same place should not be earlier than -3.
For cucumbers, you should look for a new place every year. They are placed after cauliflower and early white cabbage. You can also grow them after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.
According to the rules of agricultural technology, it is impossible to grow tomatoes after potatoes, since, we repeat, the diseases and pests of these crops are the same. Good predecessors for tomatoes are cauliflower and early white cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root crops and onion.
If you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, then the soil in this area becomes acidic, so every autumn, for deep digging of the soil, you need to add fluffy lime in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq.m.), so how tomatoes grow better on neutral soils (pH 6.5-7).
Growing beets in one place should be carried out no more than once every three to four years. Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, legumes. It is undesirable to plant beets after vegetables from the haze family (chard, spinach, beets again).
In one place, onions should not be planted for more than three to four years in a row. The best predecessors of onions are crops that were subjected to large doses of organic fertilizers, as well as cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, and potatoes. On heavy clay soils, onions will not give a good harvest; they prefer light, loose fertile soils and good lighting.
It is possible to grow garlic in one place for no more than two years, otherwise it is impossible to avoid contamination of the soil with a stem nematode.
It is better to start garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early harvested crops (except onions).
Sown after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding lettuce), placement after tomatoes and peas is allowed.
The best predecessors for eggplant are cucumber, onion, early ripe cabbage, perennial herbs. You can not plant eggplant where potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew last year.
The best predecessors for strawberries: radishes, lettuce, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radish, parsley, turnips, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, and flowers (tulips, daffodils, marigolds). On poor soil, the best predecessors of strawberries are mustard, phacelia (they are also honey plants). Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades, as well as cucumbers, are not suitable as predecessors. After them, plots can be occupied with strawberries only after three to four years.
It is good to plant strawberries after radishes, beans, mustard, radishes, peas, parsley, garlic. Potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers are of little use as predecessors. You can not place strawberries after all species of the Compositae family (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke) and all types of buttercups.
Many years of experience and ingenuity of gardeners suggested another correct decision - joint plantings. This is both convenient and allows small area get a large assortment of vegetables. However, not all vegetables can be placed in close proximity, since not all crops favorably act on each other. This is explained by the mutual action of phytoncides and other volatile substances released by plants.
Carrot can be planted together with peas, marjoram, onions (this is even useful, since joint plantings with onions scare the carrot fly away from it). Onion amicably coexists with table beets, chicory, carrots. Peas and vegetable beans get along well with potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon and watermelon. To potatoes it is quite possible to plant vegetable beans and sweet corn, to cucumber- dill and corn, radish will benefit from the neighborhood with watercress, and peas - with mustard leaf.
It has been proven that potatoes and beans, garlic and blackcurrants have a positive effect on each other. You can make the following bed: plant parsley, lettuce, and sow garlic between them.
As for the unwanted neighborhood, then cannot be planted nearby potatoes and cucumbers, white cabbage, strawberries and tomatoes, tomatoes and pumpkin. If legumes are placed next to onions, both crops will be oppressed.
Since ancient times, in order to obtain stable and increased yields, peasants have been practicing crop rotation (rotation) - crop rotation, that is, their annual movement through the fields of crop rotation in open field, and fruit change - the alternation of crops in a greenhouse and a greenhouse.
Crops are distinguished by the amount of nutrients they harvest from the soil and are thus classified into strong eaters, weak eaters, and soil feeders. Some of the strong "eaters": cereals, cabbage. Some of the weak "eaters": potatoes and other root crops. Soil "breadwinners" include beans, peas, alfalfa, clover. Grow strong "eaters" in a plot where legumes ("feeders" of the soil) were grown last season, where there is now a lot of nitrogen and other nutrients, and you will get a good harvest. In the next third season, this site will still have enough nutrients to grow weak "eaters". The fourth year, you start a new rotation cycle with the sowing of the "breadwinners" of the soil (legumes or green manure), etc. In addition, the long roots of alfalfa and lupine are able to absorb potassium, phosphorus and calcium from the deep layers of the soil and enrich the topsoil with them . That is also why legumes are excellent soil feeders and predecessors for most vegetable crops. The structure of the soil is also improved by such plants with a powerful and deep root system as cumin, buckwheat, flax and rapeseed. Such soil fatigue consists first main concept of crop rotation.
Very food demanding and a lot of "eat" all kinds of cabbage and celery, cereals. Then in this row are vegetables from the pumpkin family: cucumber, zucchini, melon, pumpkin, squash. Next - nightshade: tomato, pepper, eggplant, potatoes, all kinds of onions and lettuce, as well as corn, spinach and other greens. To less demanding(weak "eaters") include early potatoes, carrots, parsnips, root and leaf parsley, turnips, radishes, radishes, table beets, and other root crops.
When plants of the same species grow in one place for a long time, their own root secretions (enzymes) poison the soil, the yield begins to drop sharply. Especially sensitive to their own secretions are beets and spinach, to a lesser extent - cabbage, radish, radish, parsley, celery, peas, carrots and cucurbits. Rye, corn, beans, and leeks tolerate their root secretions well. Therefore, these crops can be grown in one place for a relatively long time. In that - second crop rotation concept.
With constant cultivation in one place of cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, beans, celery, pathogens of bacterial fungal diseases. Root and leaf nematodes, cabbage, carrot and onion flies become a scourge for the gardener. You can fight all these misfortunes only by alternating cultures belonging to different families. So, when keel appears on cabbage, this culture can be returned to its original place no earlier than after 5 years. This is what third crop rotation concept.
Thus, crop rotation allows:
reduce the influence of pests and pathogens accumulated in the soil, especially dangerous for the previous crop and less dangerous for the next one. For example, almost all plants from the cruciferous family are affected by cabbage keel, while for others it is not dangerous; brown rot and eels (?) affect the potato, and along with it the tomato; the number of roundworms (nematodes) increases in the onion area;
improve plant utilization of nutrients from the soil. With long-term cultivation of a crop in one place, the soil is depleted with the nutrients necessary for this crop;
rational use of organic and mineral fertilizers, taking into account their action and aftereffect on different cultures;
to avoid the negative phenomena (still little studied) caused by root secretions, inherent this species plants;
labor-intensive deep digging should not be carried out immediately over the entire area of the garden, but gradually (every year - only in the fields of crop rotation for crops that require deeper loosening of the soil).
Because plants from the same family tend to be more susceptible to the same pests and diseases, knowledge of the botanical families of vegetable crops is essential (see below).
Wait 3 to 5 years before growing crops of the same family on the site. So, growing peppers after tomatoes is the wrong decision.
Green crops (dill, spinach, lettuce) can be grown without rotation.
Cereal crops release an enzyme into the soil that inhibits the germination of small seeds. Therefore, grow vegetables with large seeds, such as corn, pumpkin, cucumbers, behind cereals.
Grow tomatoes, potatoes, and other nematode-prone nightshades after cereals (the bluegrass family), as cereals suppress microscopic nematode worms in the soil.
After introducing peat into the soil on a new garden plot, avoid growing root crops, as the turf is a breeding ground for soil grubs and wireworms that damage root crops.
Keep records of crop rotation from year to year. This will make it easier to plan the crops on your plantation, make the soil on it more productive, and your plants will be healthy, free of diseases and pests.
Draw in the form of a plan on paper in a cage. Or in the form of a table on the diary page, for example, a four-field crop rotation - see below.
cultures | Rotation fields | |||||
2010 year | 2011 year | Etc. | ||||
Spring | Autumn | Spring | Autumn | Spring | Autumn | |
1st year, 1st field, spring Solanaceae, except potatoes (tomatoes, eggplants, peppers). Pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, etc.) | 1 | 2 | 3 | Etc. | ||
1st year, 1st field, autumn Liliaceae (onion, leek and garlic) | 1 | 2 | Etc. | |||
1st year, 2nd field, spring Legumes (peas, beans) | 2 | 3 | 4 | Etc. | ||
1st year, 2nd field, autumn Legumes (green manure) | 2 | 3 | ||||
1st year, 3rd field, spring Cabbage, including root crops (turnip, swede, etc.). Leafy salads | 3 | 4 | 1 | |||
1st year, 3rd field, autumn Cabbage (in warm regions) | 3 | 4 | ||||
1st year, 4th field, spring Celery (carrots, parsnips, celery). Marevy (beets, spinach, chard). Leafy salads | 4 | 1 | 2 | |||
1st year, 4th field, autumn Sowing rye (green manure) | 4 | 1 |
cultures | Rotation fields | 2010 year | 2011 year | Etc. | ||
Spring | Autumn | Spring | Autumn | Spring | Autumn | |
1st year, 1st field, spring fruit crops(tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini) | 1 | 2 | 3 | Etc. | ||
1st year, 1st field, autumn Siderates (sowing rye). Root vegetables (onions, garlic). | 1 | 2 | Etc. | |||
1st year, 2nd field, spring Root vegetables (turnips, parsnips, carrots, radishes, root celery, potatoes, etc.) | 2 | 3 | 4 | Etc. | ||
1st year, 2nd field, autumn | ||||||
1st year, 3rd field, spring Legumes (peas, beans) | 3 | 4 | 1 | |||
1st year, 3rd field, autumn Legumes (green manure) | 3 | 4 | ||||
1st year, 4th field, spring Leafy crops (cabbages, leafy lettuce, spinach, herbs, green onions, etc.). | 4 | 1 | 2 | |||
1st year, 4th field, autumn Sowing rye (green manure) | 4 | 1 |
To prevent soil fatigue and the impact of pathogens, it is necessary to alternate vegetable crops belonging to different botanical families. As a rule, vegetables from one family have the same set of pests and diseases that damage vegetables of this particular family and do not pose a great danger to other families. The table shows the belonging of the most common vegetable crops to certain botanical families. Looking at this table, you will know that in the garden where, for example, cabbage grew last year, you should not plant radishes, radishes and turnips.
In the culture table:*** - require a lot of nutrition, ** - require less nutrition, * - require even less nutrition; (+) - improve soil fertility.
botanical family | cultures |
Legumes | (+) Peas, beans, beans, soybeans |
Cabbage (cruciferous) | ***All types of cabbage (white, red, Savoy, Beijing, Brussels, kohlrabi, cauliflower, broccoli, fodder) |
* Rutabaga, leaf mustard, katran, watercress, radish, radish, turnip, turnip, horseradish | |
Celery (umbrella) | *Carrot, parsnip, parsley, dill, cumin, fennel |
***Celery | |
Aster (composite) | **All types of lettuce, chicory, endive, buckthorn, artichoke, dandelion |
Goosebumps | **Chard, spinach |
*Beet | |
Pumpkin | **Cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, melon, zucchini, squash |
Onion (lily) | **All kinds of onions, garlic |
Nightshade | **Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, potatoes |
Buckwheat | **Rhubarb, sorrel |
Valerian | * Vegetable valerian |
bluegrass | **Corn |
For correct alternation cultures you need to know about each culture and take into account:
what family does it belong to?
necessary for cultivation in one place,
and predecessors, the most dangerous common diseases for them,
as a rule, the preceding culture should not belong to the same family.
culture | Invalid predecessors |
Rutabaga | Cucumber, cabbage |
Valerian | Spinach |
cabbage | Pumpkin, swede, radish, radish |
Kozelets - sweet root | Kohlrabi, carrot, celery, spinach, toma |
Kohlrabi | Cucumber, pumpkin, radish, radish |
Corn | Radish, radish, onion |
Swiss chard | Spinach |
Onion | Leek, radish, celery, carrot |
Carrot | Parsnips, parsley, fennel, celery, scorzonera, zucchini, tomato |
Cucumber, other pumpkin | Swede |
Parsnip | Carrot, parsley, celery, fennel |
Parsley | Carrots, parsnips, celery |
Radish | kohlrabi |
radish | kohlrabi, spinach |
Salad | Kohlrabi, endive, chicory salad, chicory salad |
Beetroot | Chard, spinach, tomato |
Celery | Carrot, parsnip, parsley, fennel, scorzonera, goat-sweet root |
Scorzonera | Carrot, celery, tomato, spinach |
Tomato, other solanaceous | Scorzonera, goat, sweet root, cucumber, zucchini |
Spinach | Leaf beet, table beet, valerian, scorzonera, goat-sweet root |
culture | The best predecessors |
Peas, beans, beans | Potato, early and medium white cabbage, cauliflower, tomato, root vegetables, onion, leek, cucumber |
Early white and red cabbage, green | |
Cabbage medium and late b/koch | Layer and layer turnover of perennial and annual grasses, green manure, tomato, potato, carrot, beetroot, cucumber, legumes, turnip onion, leek |
Cauliflower and cabbage salad | Early potatoes, tomato, cucumber. annual herbs |
Zucchini, pumpkin, squash | Root crops, cabbage, greens, potatoes, a layer of perennial herbs |
Potato | Cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, cucumber and other cucurbits |
Onion for turnip and sevok | Early cabbage and cauliflower, cucumber, early potato, tomato, legumes, greens |
Carrots, table. beetroot, parsley, celery, parsnips | Cabbage, potatoes, cucumber, tomato, onion, beetroot, leek |
Radish, turnip, turnip, swede | Cucumber, tomato, early potato, onion, leek |
Cucumber | Perennial herbs, green manure, tomato and other solanaceous, turnip onions, legumes, spinach, greens, cabbage, root crops |
Beet | Potato, cucumber, early white and cauliflower, turnip onion |
Tomato, pepper, eggplant, potato | Legumes, carrots, radishes, greens, cabbages, garlic, onions, leeks, winter wheat |
Greens | Cucumber |
Dill, spinach, lettuce, green onion | Cucumber, early potatoes, early white and cauliflower, carrots and beets per bunch, celery and parsley per leaf, radish |
Garlic | Potatoes, carrots and beets on a bunch, cucumber, tomato |
The selection of predecessors is especially important for crops that require a lot of labor for weeding.
Some crops succeed on fresh fertilizer (manure, composts, etc.), others do not give a good harvest on soil freshly fertilized with organic matter. Accordingly, all vegetable plants are divided into three groups.
First group- vegetables, which are in the first place in terms of the need for organic fertilizers. These include: cucumber, zucchini and other pumpkin, celery, garlic, leek. These vegetables respond well to fresh manure. This also includes strawberries, which are usually included in crop rotation.
Second group- vegetables that succeed in last year's fertilizer: These are: carrots and other root crops (radishes, turnips, radishes, parsnips, beets, kohlrabi, parsley, oat root and scorzonera), kale, valerian, dill, bulbous plants.
Third group- vegetables that can be assigned to the first or second group: salads, potatoes, tomatoes, etc. nightshade, onions, cabbages, broccoli, chard, rutabaga, spinach, beans, beans.
Crop rotation fields are made as equal in fertility as possible. Separate infertile areas are first sown with perennial grasses. Then, as the soil improves, they are included in the crop rotation.
The annual planting of certain crops in the same place leads to a significant depletion of the soil, as well as a decrease in yield. For this reason, it is necessary to properly plan the order of sowing crops.
Proper crop rotation helps to avoid damage to plants by diseases and pests, as well as maintain soil fertility.
One of the most capricious crops to the quality of the soil is beets. To obtain a rich harvest of this root crop, it is necessary to withstand a certain humidity and temperature of the earth. And you should also know, after which you can plant beets so that they have enough nutrients for normal growth.
One type of vegetable or root crop planted in a certain area of the garden causes significant damage to soil productivity. In this case, even the addition of fertilizers will not help to correct the situation. Vegetables that belong to a particular family can be planted in one area after four years. Therefore, the planting of root crops must be well thought out in order to avoid the development of diseases and pests in one area of the garden.
Important! After planting plants with small roots, cultures with deep-growing rhizomes should be grown.
To get a good beet harvest, you should choose the right place for sowing. Since this root crop does not like excessive humidity and cold, the presence of fallows should not be allowed. ground water in the landing area. You should also avoid heavy clay soil with high acidity, in which the seeds can produce a minimal yield.
When sowing, you should pay attention to the characteristics of the root crop variety: dense soil is suitable for round varieties, and looser soil is suitable for elongated varieties.
Root crops will give excellent harvest, if they are planted next to certain plants that will not take all the benefits from the soil and prevent the development of beets.
These plants are:
In order to get a good harvest of beets, it is better to sow it the next year after planting plants that do not take from the ground all the useful substances necessary for the growth of the root crop.
Advice! After onions, you can plant any crops, including beets, as it tends to scare away pests from the land.
The best predecessors for planting beets are plants of the nightshade family. Since certain trace elements are needed for their growth and they are all susceptible to the same pests, it is better to sow beets the next year after they are planted.
The nightshade family includes the following vegetables:
After harvesting the nightshade, it is necessary to carefully clean the area and let the land rest until next year, after which you can plant beets.
Important! Beetroot is a very capricious plant, so when planting, the soil should be fertilized with humus or compost. And also significantly affects the yield of this crop. proper care and timely watering.
Planting beets a year after harvesting cucumbers will be successful, as their roots do not germinate deeply, thereby leaving enough useful minerals for root growth.
Its planting favorably affects the growth of beets after:
Alternating the planting of these plants with beets helps to retain nutrients in the deep layers of the soil, thereby improving the possible yield of the root crop.
Planted clover has a good effect on the ground; during its growth, the soil rests and accumulates a large number of beneficial trace elements. The next year after its collection, you can plant beets. In this case, the root crop will grow large, strong and tasty.
After harvesting some plants, it is not recommended to plant a root crop, because this leads to the development of soil infections and soil depletion.
These cultures include:
Since all these vegetables have approximately the same requirements for general conditions growth and undergo similar pests, then their annual planting greatly depletes the soil.
It is not advisable to plant any kind of beets for several years in a row. Already in the second year of harvesting, root crops will have a pronounced lethargy and loss of basic qualities. In addition, such an alternation will negatively affect the fertility of the soil, which will need a long recovery period.
Sowing beets before winter has a number of advantages, including the formation of resistance to diseases, frost and lack of moisture. In order for the seeds to endure the winter cold without consequences, you need to choose the right place for planting it. The quality and fertilization of the soil will determine what crop will grow.
Important! The soil when planting beets for the winter should not have high acidity.
You need to get rid of it immediately after harvesting the vegetables that were planted in front of the root crop. To do this, it is necessary to lime the earth during the digging of the garden using chalk, wood ash, lime or dolomite flour.
Proper crop rotation is very important for planting beets. In combination with high-quality care and following the rules for planting this plant, you can get a successful harvest of large and strong root crops.