The best predecessors of vegetable crops when landing. Predecessors and neighbors of vegetables on the beds

Crowning of vegetable crops is the necessary alternation of grown plants on your beds. Crowning in the garden ideally should be an annual and continuous. This means that in the same place for two or more years in a row nothing to grow! This, of course, ideally, and implement such a utopian picture not every summer house. However, "Gardener and Gardener" will try to help you with this difficult business.

We prepared for you certainly useful schemes and tables, download which you, as usual, can at the end of the article. In the meantime, proceed to the theory.

Crowning of vegetable crops: Table for occupied gardeners

In general, the device of crop rotation - the occupation is not fast and requires certain time costs. This is due to the fact that during the alternation of crops it is necessary to take into account quite a few factors: the need for a plant in nutrition, belonging to the biological family, soil infection by pests, etc. The same, who does not have enough time for long settlements and building schemes, we offer a quick and easy solution.

"Table of crop rotation: followers and predecessors of vegetables when landing" will help you navigate in the choice of plants for a particular bed, not fit into details. The only thing to remember when using it is a culture can be returned to the previous place at least 3 to 4 years.

Table of crop rotation: followers and predecessors of vegetables when landing

As can be seen from this consolidated table of crop rotation, there are the best predecessors of vegetable crops, permissible and bad:

Best tomatov's predecessors - Color and early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, greens, carrots and sites. It is permissible to plant tomatoes after onions, garlic, spicy herbs, beets, lateral and medium-sized cabbage. After the rest of the cultures, the tomatoes are no longer planted on the garden.

Wonderful cabbage predecessors - Cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin and legumes. But then there is a division. For later and medium grades are good early potatoes and carrots, and for early and color cabbage It is better to sow after Sideratov and Luke with garlic.

Good bow and garlic predecessors (which you are not growing for greens) - color and early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, early potatoes, peas, beans, beans and sitarats.

Best cucumber precursors, zucchini, pumpkins And Ave. - Onions, garlic, legumes, corn, early and cauliflower.

Good predecessors of pea - Any cabbage, early potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins and patissons.

Excellent forerovers of carrots - Cabbage, potatoes, greens and spices, cucumbers-zucchini and Siderats.

Best pepper and Eggplant Predecessors - cucumbers, onions, carrots, siderates, etc.

Good predecessors of beets - spices and greens, potatoes, cucumbers, etc.

Wonderful potato precursors - zucchini, garlic, legumes, siturates, etc.

It seems to understand how the table works, you managed without special difficulties. So, "Toropagi" leave us, and we go further.

Cross-turnover vegetables on the beds: the need or fault

Those dacifices who are not limited in time "Gardener and Gardery" offers to "dig deeper". To begin with, let's look at objective reasonswho are talking about the undoubted practical benefits and the need for crop rotation in the country.

Causes of fatigancy of soil:

1. Accumulation of pests and pathogenic organisms.
If a long time is planted on the same place, for example, potatoes, then the number of wires, colorado beetles and pathogens of phytofluges will inevitably increase in this area. It is also the situation with the rest of the cultures. Growing all the time on the same beds among the same vegetables, you risk getting on one domain onion flies, on another cabbage kille, on the third carrot flew, etc. What to talk about root and leafy nematodes, rotches and other "small" troubles.

2. Accumulation of toxins.
Another reason that speaks about the need for vegetable crop rotation is the inevitable toxic root allocations - colin. Many vegetable cultures are very sensitive to their own toxins. If you continue to plant them in one place, then the crops every year will become worse and worse, even despite the absence of pests and diseases. For example, the most susceptible to their root allocations spinach and beets. Slightly easier for them, parsley, radish, radishes, celery, carrots and pumpkin cultures react. Less suffer from Cups, leeks and legumes of corn. Many toxins remain on tomato, cucumber, carrot and cabbage beds.

3. Nutrition needs.
Reserve nutrients On the plot is not limitless. Each plant has its own nutrient requirements. Some cultures are less demanding, and some more. Therefore it is very important to know, "Who is who" to track the state of a particular bed. So, if you sit for the same place related plants, then for several years they will "split" from it everything you need for growth, exhausting the margin of some elements. As a result - yield will fall.

All these factors in the aggregate give the so-called soil fatigue. You can fight this and need. The most effective means is this very crop rotor of vegetables on your cottage.

Crowning in the garden: the fight against soil depletion

In order for the horrors described above did not become a reality on your favorite dacha or plot, it is enough to remember and stick to three simple rules of crop rotation.

1. Rule Botany.
It should never be put on each other's one and the same plant, but even the culture related, belonging to one type! This is the first, most importantly, important.
Judge himself:
- Diseases and pests they most often are identical. Consequently, the first reason will not be eliminated.
- They are also similar to toxins. Collects of one plant only culture of another botanical species. So the second reason will remain in place.
- Nutrition and need for trace elements in the cultures of one family are also almost identical. It turns out that the third reason is not going anywhere.
Conclusion: vegetable crop rotation within one botanical family is useless!

2. Rule of time.
The longer the culture does not return - the better!
The minimum time through which the plant can be returned to the previous place - 3 years. For carrots, parsley, beets, cucumbers it is better to increase it to 4-5 years. Cabbage, when the keel appears, you can return only after 6-7 years. If there is an opportunity (there is enough space, many cultures are grown), then boldly increase these numbers, it will only be better.
Otherwise, the very three causes of soil fatigue will be again not eliminated.

3. Rule of fertility.
Determining the order of alternation of cultures in crop rotation, remember meals and plants that help enrich the soil with the necessary elements.
All cultures are used nutrient elements For its growth, someone more, someone less. Strong-demanding plant nutrition should not be shed at each other.
Some cultures are improving fertile layer Already the very fact of its growing in this place. These include almost all legumes. They only break the soil, but also fill it with mineral elements. No wonder many vegetables love them as predecessors. By the way, the plants of other species, who have similar qualities, have similar qualities root system Deep, powerful and developed.
Others contain the necessary substances in their roots and leaves. These plants need to know and, if possible, lay in compost. Although this is a separate topic, several examples are still present.

In accordance with this rule, we advise you in compiling the procedure for the alternation of cultures in the crop rotation, not only attention to botanical View and timelines, but also to demanding nutrition and improvement of fertility. In this way:
- after each plant, demanding of nutrition, for the next year it costs to plant bean cultures or seriously fertilize the garden,
- After a less demanding vegetable, you can plant more demanding, moderately supports the soil.

So that it was more convenient to navigate when alternating crops in crop rotation, "Gardener and Gardener" prepared you a special memo.

Memo: "What to take into account when alternating vegetable crops in crop rotation"

Scheme of vegetables crop rotation

Giving some options for crop rotation schemes - a waste of time. The country's country area of \u200b\u200beach gardener is unique, and therefore, few people can approach some standard plans to rotate cultures. And the point is not even in the size of the site or the number of beds. Just vegetable crops that are cultivated by everyone different. Someone comes a lot of cabbage different species, and someone literally 5-6 plants. Someone places potatoes of 5 acres, and someone has enough 5 square meters. meters. Someone puts many cultures in the greenhouse, and someone has a greenhouse for tomatoes and cucumbers. Therefore, it is more appropriate for each dacket yourself to plan the crop rotation and make an individual scheme for yourself.

The basic principles that should be adhered to, we voiced above. Now let's remove from the ideal and plunge into the realities. Next, "Gardener and Gardener" offers you a list practical Soviets, on the device of crop rotation.

Crop rotation in the country area: practical advice

1. Human memory is not limitless. Recall that the vegetable was sitting on this garden five years ago - the task is not necessarily for most dachensons. Therefore, the first advice is not to be lazy and draw up a note on the notebook with all the beds. In this regard, every year you will celebrate planted cultures. Those who have a lot of free time can immediately mark the likely plants for a year, two or three ahead. The rest to make up full map The crop rotation will be required 5-6 years (according to the number of average return of culture).

2. In the process of sowing, decide and recorded in your notebook, how much place what culture does you have (a third of the beds, a quarter, half, as well, etc.). This is necessary so that in the following years it was possible to "fold" suitable landinglike pieces of mosaic. After all, it is not necessary to sow all the beds of some kind of culture. If after Luke you can put a cabbage and greens, so make - half a year of one, half a year. Just do not forget to make sure the compatibility of the neighbors plants.

3. If there is no place to change the place of some culture (which is, it happens), do not despair. Just add to her to bed "neighbor" from another family (without forgetting to refer with a compatibility table). So plants self-definers (beets, spinach, carrots, etc.), which we talked about in the second reason (accumulation of toxins), can grow in one place completely calmly and without loss in yields to 3 years. After all, the neighbors of another species proceed well and absorb their destructive toxins. Mixed landing works better when it is really mixed. That is, not half a year of beets and half a year of carrots, but a number of more than a number of other. Or even better - fill out the aisle the same beans.

Here, perhaps, all the information you need to organize the right and effective crop rotation in the country. The table will help to quickly decide on the seeded culture. Memo - plan all in advance. Practical tips - solve problems arising in the process. Good harvests!

The material is taken from the site:

Corn rotation is a agronomic term under which the natural, scientifically based annual change or alternation of crops on one or several fields included in the cultivation cycle of these plants.

Sowing planning

Vegetable crop rotation contributes to the accumulation of nutrients in the soil, heals it from causative agents of diseases and wintering stages of insect pests. Layout and co-growing create opportunities for collecting elevated yields. The crop rotation table should be every amateur vegetable. It is advisable to remember the principles of a fruitman on various features:

• By the type of economic valuable part of the crop in direct and reverse order, roots are replaced by the fruits, then leafy vegetables - flowers;
• On the basis of belonging to the biological family: plants from the Pumpkin, legumes, marlaine and cabbage families are replaced by parlor.

What then plant

In addition to clear ideas about the sequence, it is important to know a number of rules relating to soil fertility and a favorable phytosanitary regime:

• The same culture should not be redeemed in one place for longer than one year. Even if cultures are different, but belong to the same botanical family, they should not follow each other, because they are damaged by the same pests and react to soil toxins equally;
• The soil is useful to leave under the "ferry", nothing hot for 1-2 years, during the season the plot is stolen and loose, if necessary, water;
• Plants that were grown on the site last year, leave behind the volume of root residues, which then overload and create a stock in the soil necessary macro and trace elements. In addition, bushes with a deep-rotary root system are saturated with oxygen soil and make it moisture-permeable;
• The tops of vegetable crops and colors significantly enriches the soil with an organic matter, and the area looks clean and neat;
• Plants that distinguish substances that scare insect pests make it possible to significantly reduce the pesticide burden on the soil and the environment;
• The annual cultivation of high-consuming plants to the level of mineral nutrition significantly depletes the soil.

Watch the video! That after which you can plant - gardeners tips

Tip! Top Vegetable I. flower cultures Use to get compost and create warm beds!

If you follow the above rules, the accumulation of nutrients and the improvement of the soil will occur in the system and targeted order. Gardening gardens need to keep a diary, where to bring records of all manipulations in the garden and in the garden.

Using mixed landings

A number of studies and practical experience of vegetable water testifies to the positive effect. mixed landing Vegetables. The most suitable landing schemes, including:

• onion + carrots;
• radishes + carrots;
• onion + cabbage;
• beets + cabbage.

Seeds are sowing alternating rows, while they help each other to eat and protect against possible pests. When planning joint landings of vegetables, it is important to take into account their attitude to illumination.

Among the vegetables there are no brassy crops. With the absence of direct sun ray They cease to develop and give a crop of poor quality.

Table 1 - The ratio of vegetable crops to the level of illumination

Good predecessors of vegetable crops

All plantations are left after themselves in the soil, except for a set of mineral and organic substances, useful or toxic substances, root remnants. If you competently select the sequence of plants, actively use compost, then you can effectively control the soil fertility. The main vegetable cultures and good predecessors for them are shown in Table 2.

Table 2 - Basic vegetable crops and good predecessors for them

Culture	Predecessor
Beans, beans, peas	White cabbage, Beijing, broccoli, potatoes, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, onions, garlic, pepper, eggplant
Cabbage, beet	Cucumber, potatoes, pepper, carrots, beans, pumpkin, eggplant, tomato
Potatoes	Cabbage, Cucumber, Pumpkin, Onions, Garlic, Carrot
Onion garlic	Cabbage, Potatoes, Bean, Green, Radish
Carrot	Cucumber, Potatoes, Cabbage, Tomato, Bean
Cucumber, pumpkin, zucchini	Cabbage, legumes, onions, garlic, corn
Pepper, eggplant	Cabbage, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, onion, garlic, legumes, carrots
Tomato	Cucumber, carrots, cabbage, bow, beet

All plants impose certain requirements for soil fertility and remove fixed quantities of batteries. Table 3 presents categories of vegetable and green crops By the level of removal of batteries from the soil.

The level of removal of nutrients from the soil means that for growing subsequent plantings, nutrients must be made back to the soil in a volume exceeding the one that has been rendered by the previous culture in order to accumulate fertility.

Useful! Leave the soil under pure ferry for 1-2 years every 5-6 years of use.

Plant Alternation Scheme on the Dacha

We will analyze how correctly the scheme of vegetable crop rotation for giving up. The first priority is to draw up a map plan with an indication of buildings, household objects, trees, gardening areas and the aspect ratio of light. This will allow you to see the most illuminated and privided zones. The easiest way to create a crop rotation is to divide the entire zone under the beds for 4 sectors and move the entire set of dacha vegetable crops along it.

Important! In the garden, where the culture of the first group grew up in the past year, in the current one should plan representatives of the second group, etc.

Thus, the country's crop turning includes 4 groups of vegetable plants:

• Cucumber, cabbage, zucchini, pumpkin, patisson;
• Tomato, onions, radishes, garlic, green crops;
• Carrots, beets, radish, parsley root;
• Potatoes.

Such a combination of vegetables takes into account the ratio of the amount of need for each form. The following year, the aggregate of cultures moves to the next sector. The proposed scheme is very convenient. Over time, the dacrooms produce a habit of the correct arrangement of cultures and the need to keep records disappears.

Attention! For soil under greenhouses and temporary shelters, the requirement of observance of crop rotation is also preserved.

Good and bad neighborhood

Good compatibility of cultures for joint landing

Many years of cultivation experience gardening crops Allows you to draw up a list of plants that are having affecting each other:

Watch the video! Vegetables-neighbors on the beds

Poor compatibility of cultures for joint landing

The peculiarity of growing plants on dumart sites It is what falls on comparatively small square Fix a wide range of crops like wood-shrub and vegetable. The fact is that many fruit and walnut trees can have bad influence on plants that are in close proximity to them. Here are examples of negative neighborhood:

• Walnut inhibits any plants that are in contact with the substance that it highlights - Yuglon;
• Fennel inhibits all cultures in close proximity;
• Bean vegetables and wormwood are bad;
• Potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes and strawberries are growing worse if they are in the zone of influence of each other's roots, also applies to all representatives of the Parubyar family;
• Cabbage and strawberries - two cultures that attract to the site great amount pests, which adversely affects the growth of each culture separately.

Thus, the time spent on the design of crop rotations in the country is not a spent in vain. Competent approach and thoughtful solutions will correctly design the country's crop rotation, save on fertilizers, plant protection products and get a significant harvest of vegetables.

Watch the video! Crowning of vegetable crops

Each dacket knows well that if for several years in a row to plant the same cultures in one place, even if, it would seem, the same departure conditions, they are becoming more and more worse fruit. This phenomenon is caused by the depletion of the soil, which, in turn, is explained by a number of factors.

The importance of competent planning of crops

The first - in the soil they accumulate pathogenic organisms and all sorts of pests. For example, potatoes, as you know, is a favorite delicacy. colorado beetles. If this culture plantation does not change the location for several years, the pest is no need to migrate in search of feed - after wintering it immediately turns out to be favorable for himself and immediately proceeds to destroy the plant. In addition to the colorado beetle, planting potatoes contribute to the accumulation in the soil of phytofluorosis pathogens, as well as the larvae of the oglkunov and moths.

With other cultures, the situation develops by the same scheme. On a plot planted with the same culture, the number of pests will increase from year to yearThat are dangerous for her and, accordingly, standing against such an invasion of the plant will be more difficult and more difficult. Especially suffer from this factor of cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, beans, salad.

The second is an increase in concentration harmful substancessecreted by roots of one or another culture (so-called colin) and are toxic for the very same culture. Some plants are very sensitive to the effects of such poisons (for example, beets and spinach), others are more stable (carrots, pumpkin, radishes, parsley), the third almost does not react to colin (legumes, leeks, corn). Moreover, different plants There are different amounts of such harmful substances, for example, especially many of them in the soil after cucumbers, carrots and cabbage.

The third is the exhaustion of the supply of nutrients in the soil. Each culture has its own complex of nutrients necessary for normal development. It is clear that these are the plants are and will try to extract from the soil. For example, if the cabbage is very hard in potassium, then after it landing this element in the soil will remain less and less, while, say, after the radically, potassium reserves are not so raw.

It is easy to understand that it is possible to correct the situation, correctly alternating cultures landed at the season of the year. This procedure has the name of the crop rotation and is a whole science. However, if there is no time complicated theoretical preparation, it is enough to assimilate several fundamental rules, and the harvest on your site will always be the same abundant.

Rule number 1.

For each other, it is impossible to plant a few years in a row not only the same culture, but also close relatives (representatives of one species), since they tend to have common pests equally react to toxins and consume the same composition of trace elements.

Rule number 2

The average period during which the Earth must relax after a certain culture, is two years (One year is usually not enough for complete recovery), but for some plants this term is much longer. So, carrots, cucumbers, parsley, beets should not return to the previous place at least 4 years, and with respect to cabbage it is better to withstand all 7 years! These periods can be increased, but undesirable to reduce.

Rule number 3.

Plants have a property not only to consume trace elements from the soil, but also to enrich it with those or other useful substances and properties. Therefore, the correct alternation of cultures can afford not to be able to preserve the elements particularly necessary for the plant, but also to improve the composition and structure of the soil without carrying out additional procedures. For example, legumes crosses the soil and enrich it with many minerals. Melon and buckwheat are saturated with calcium soil, Durav-grass - phosphorus, tobacco - potassium, downtown nettle - iron. Knowing these simple rules and considering the need different species Crops in certain microelements can easily plan crops a few years ahead. By the way, the specified properties of listed cultures can be used more fully, laying them into compost after cleaning.

This rule applies to pests. There are cultures, not just resistant to one or another diseases, but also scouring their pathogens. For example, the wave does not tolerate such plants like garlic or tobacco. Cabinet is afraid of the Colorad Beetle. If you plant similar sanitaryars after plants exposed to these pests, there is a good opportunity to expel them from the site, freeing it for landings in subsequent years.

Rule number 4.

The need of plants in non-Delican nutrition elements. It is impossible to plant a culture soil too demanding for each other. It is more correct after such a culture to land on the bed of legumes or make the necessary layer of fertilizer.

Thus, the correct alternation of crops will allow to avoid one-sided exhaustion of the same elements in the soil, increasing the concentration of certain types of pests and pathogenic bacteria, as well as uneven load on the soil of the same root plant plant.

Another reason that makes the necessary rotation of cultures on the plot is the fight against weeds. There are plants sensitive to such a neighborhood (for example, garlic, onions, carrots, parsley, Pasternak), they are better to plant them after those crops that leave the minimum number weed herb. Such plants include tomatoes, peas, potatoes, cabbage.

What then plant

So, we found out that the alternation of cultures is a necessary and fairly economical technique, which allows to preserve soil fertility and ensure a uniformly high harvest. But since the need for different cultures in trace elements, fertilizers and other conditions are different, knowledge general rules And the principles do not always make it possible to correctly determine which plants in which sequence alternate on their site.

Did you know? There are two simple rules Creating a sequity of landing. First, one should not alternate representatives of one family. For example, tomatoes and potatoes are ternary; And carrots, and dill are umbrella. Secondly, alternate among themselves the plants in which it is used in food top part, With those where the root is valuable ("tops and roots"). It is necessary to understand that this is a preliminary primitive rule, and it should be used only if you failed to find more accurate information on one or another reasons.

What then plant on the beds can be found from numerous tables developed by agronomists and lovers. For those who do not want to learn theory and are looking for simple answers to questions about specific cultures - below are some tips on what vegetables can be planted after which.

What can be planted after cabbage

Cabbage is exposed to many pests and diseases, therefore, answering the question, to put after the cabbage for the next year, any gardener will say with confidence: only no cabbage, even if it comes to other her kinds! This is the worst option that you can imagine, but if there is no other, the soil must be very good to fit the compost.

Cabbage as a precursor does not suit such cultures as radish, trouser and turnip, since these plants are beloved food for the same pests.

Ideally fall off after the cabbage onions or garlic. Carrots, celery, potatoes, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes are also allowed. With these cabbage vegetables, in addition, it is good in the neighborhood, since in this case it is less damaged diseases and harmful insects. But next to tomatoes, beans, parsley and tomatoes cappist on the contrary, it is not worth planted.
Potatoes, radishes, cucumbers, carrots, peas, onions, garlic, and annual herbs are considered good cabbage precursors.

What to plant after garlic

Garlic, as well as onions, it is not recommended to plant a long time on the same place, as well as alternate with each other. What can be planted after garlic on the garden, so it is potatoes, especially early.The permissible option is also tomatoes, cucumbers, bean, beets or cabbage.

But best of all, after garlic and onions, plant annual herbs, which are intended to restore the soil for subsequent use, replenish its mineral reserve and destroy weeds. Mustralia, Facelia, some grades of green peas, rye, rape are well coped with this role.

What to planted after cucumbers

The cucumbers are demanding of the soil composition much more than many other cultures. The soil in front of their disembarkation is usually especially careful with both organic and mineral jigs. It follows that it follows something less arrogant to the next year after cucumbers. For example, it is absolutely no cabbage for these purposes, also in need of fertile soil. It feels well on the site where cucumbers grew, various roots - beets, radish, turnip, carrots, parsley, celery. In order to improve the composition of the soil after cucumbers, we can land legumes and only after that use other vegetable crops, such as onions, potatoes, tomatoes, corn, salad.

Important! The soil is fertile not only due to the presence of a certain set of trace elements. Prerequisite It is also the creation of a natural complex of all microorganisms and various types of organic substances. Therefore, a big mistake is the most confidence among the dachensors in the fact that it is possible to restore the exhausted soil, thoughtlessly pouring a bucket of compost and watering it from above the complex mineral fertilizer purchased in the near supermarket.

What to plant after strawberry

Strawberry has a property very much to deplete the soil, so immediately after its transplant (and do it better than once At four years) Groke, where she grew, you need to carefully feed mineral and organic fertilizers. It is better to do it right from the fall, carefully repaid the ground after making additives into it.

Especially a lot of strawberries consume nitrogen, so it is best to plant beans, peas and other legumes after it - they, as mentioned, enrich the soil with this element.

Antifungal and phytoncidal properties of garlic make it a good helper to purify the soil from pests that remained in it after strawberries. At the same time, a parsley, celery and other fragrant greens can also be searched with garlic and other fragrant greens to get sick with beds.

Actually, on this appeal options for the next after strawberry year are limited. But after the crops mentioned above, it is possible to plant any vegetables - cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, pumpkin, etc.

Important! Malina and strawberry should not alternate with each other, since these plants have similar pests.

It is good to arrange a flower garden on the site of the former strawberry bed. Perennial peonies, daffodils, tulips and violets will help the soil to recover after the exhausted berries.

What to plant after potatoes

Potatoes, unlike strawberries, consumes a lot of potassium and phosphorus, so the soil after the collection of tubers is lacking in these elements. You can fill the loss by mineral fertilizers, and you can land annual herbs that generate potassium and phosphorus after yourself. Domera-grass, mustard, oats, pea, rape, Facelium can perform this role.

If it is not possible to completely free the area after potatoes for a whole year, you can plant a pumpkin on it. Other crops require pre-making mineral fertilizers to restore fertility in the soil. However, as mentioned above, tomatoes, eggplants and other grained cultures are impossible after potatoes. The same refers to peppers.

Predecessors of potatoes successfully make the same pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, cabbage, onions.

What to plant after tomatoes

We decided that after tomatoes it is impossible to plant eggplants, potatoes and peppers. As with respect to other cultures, After tomatoes, it is perfect to plant annuals that fill the soil with the missing elements.If there is no possibility for such luxury - it's not trouble! Peas, beans and other legumes will help to fill the lack of nitrogen in the soil, the cabbage will also feel good on the garden, where tomatoes grew, since the pests have different cultures. There are no contraindications and for disembarking cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, carrots, beets, green salads, onions, garlic. In addition, tomatoes are a little, after which you can plant carrots.

What to plant after beet

The choice of what can be planted after beets for the next year is quite large. Potatoes, tomatoes and other paroles are suitable for these purposes, however, before such a landing, the soil needs to be prettaged by humus or peat. You can also plant garlic and onions. Good option It is carrots. By the way, carrot predecessors on the garden, except for beet and mentioned tomatoes, are also cucumbers, onions, garlic and cabbage.

The above cultures work in the reverse order, that is, with respect to what is better to plant beets. You can add cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, salad, greenery, dill, celery.

What can be planted after pepper

The root Sweet Pepper system is in upper layers Soil, so after it is best to plant culture with deeper roots. It can be rooting (radishes, radish, beets, carrots), except potatoes, as well as onions, garlic, cucumbers, beans and greens.

You can not land after pepper any culture of the family of the Polenic. Self bell pepper You can plant after peas, zucchini, pumpkins, cabbage, beets, celery.

What can be planted after peas

Peas, as mentioned above, is a good predecessor for very many cultures. Thus, the ability of this plant to enrich the soil with nitrogen to be especially favorably affected by the yield of potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, beets, carrots, radish, cucumbers, zucchini, patissons, pumpkins, melons, and various types of cabbage.

However, pea has one unpleasant feature: it is very susceptible to fungal diseases and root rot, especially in conditions high humidity. Therefore, if a culture affected by such a non-affected area grew on the site, this place next year should not plant peas nor other legumes. Disputes of such diseases can be maintained in the soil for 5-6 years, so all this period is better to use a better culture under these diseases.

What then plant: Table of predecessors of vegetable crops when landing

There are a huge number of common and specific rules reduced for visibility to the desired and undesirable predecessors of concrete vegetable crops. With them, it is possible to learn whether the relevant rotations are planned.

For example, it is possible to group the crop rotation rules as follows:

Culture	Good predecessor	Possible predecessor	Bad predecessor
Bean, cucumbers, cabbage	Carrots, beets, bow	Polenic (tomatoes, eggplants, pepper)
Garlic, Luc	Potatoes, carrots, legumes, cucumbers	Cabbage, Tomatoes, Swabs	Onions, garlic, pepper, Physalis
Tomatoes	Cabbage (especially colored), carrots, onions, cucumbers, greens		Any Parenic, Physalis
Pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, patissons, pumpkin)	Bean, Parenic (Potatoes, Tomatoes), Cabbage, Onion	Sweet, greens	Any pumpkin
Bean (peas, beans, beans)	Strawberries, cucumber, potatoes, cabbage,	Tomatoes	Perennial herbs
Carrot	Onion, cucumber	Radishes, beets, cabbage
Greens	Cabbage, cucumbers	Bean, potatoes, tomatoes, onions	Carrots, Pasternak, Celery
Eggplant	Legumes, turnip, trouser, cucumber, cabbage, onions, mesh		Polenic
Pepper	Turnip, carrots, cucumber, cabbage, trouser, legumes,	Onion garlic	Panked, pumpkin
Potatoes, cucumber, bow	Bean, Tomatoes	Carrot
Bean, grated, onions, garlic	Salad, corn	Pumpkin, trouser, carrots, turnips, radishes, turnip

class \u003d "Table-Bordered"\u003e

Thus, referring to such prompts, it can always be clarified, after which, for example, planting a bow or how to sing a garden on which tomatoes grew.

However, not only tables will help correctly determine the predecessors of vegetables when landing will help, but also firmly learned rules.

Important! Categorically bad predecessors are: beets, radish, turnip and radishes for cabbage (and on the contrary); Carrots, tomatoes and cabbage - for onions, beans - for carrots and cucumbers, carrots for cucumbers and beets.

But after which you can plant carrots and other roots, so it is after garlic or onions. Also root root grow well after greens and vice versa.

Neighboring cultures

In addition to the answer to the question, after which it is to plant, it is equally important to know also, what to plant with, that is, what cultures can and which cannot be planted nearby. The fact is that the plants have an influence on each other, which can be both positive and negative. Knowing the basic rules, you can avoid mistakes and solve many problems that prevent a stable harvest.

For example, as mentioned above, the root system of plants highlights toxic substancesprotecting culture from diseases and pests. In this case, such poisons can harm the neighboring plants, and they can, on the contrary, provide them with additional protection. Thus, the colins secreted by mustard have a beneficial effect on peas, carrots and garlic, but cabbage is poorly transferred. Knowing such a feature, it is easy to determine which peas can be planted and you should not squeeze the cabbage.

What cultures are better to plant next door

So, joint landings – an important rule crop rotation that allows you to optimally use a limited space space, as well as improve crop yields.
For example, potatoes and beans are beautiful neighbors. He protects it from such a pest as a grain, and it fills his need for nitrogen and scares the Colorado beetle. In addition to the beans, it is useful to place a cabbage, corn, spinach, eggplant, horseradish, a carrot, radish, dill, salad, close to potatoes. All these plants have a beneficial effect on the yield of potatoes, removing excessive moisture from the soil. And onions and garlic squeezed nearby, protect potatoes from phytoofluorosis.

By the way, garlic has a beneficial effect on many cultures, therefore, options, with which it is sufficient. Strawberry is considered a classic, since these plants are equally useful for each other: garlic protects a capricious strawberries from diseases and pests, and the berry promotes the formation more Cloves in garlic. The same effect on the plant is enzymes allocated by carrots: under their exposure to the bulb of garlic becomes larger.

Did you know? If planted near garlic and horseradish, the amount of vitamin C is increasing and in the other.

From various diseases and pests (Tlla, Medveda, May Zhuk) garlic saves not only vegetable crops, such as tomatoes, beets, cucumbers, carrots, but also flowers - gladioli, cloves, roses, etc. And here is the garlic himself from dangerous onions Muhi can protect the calendula and chicory.

Dill and corn is what can be planted near the cucumbers, the carrots get along well with peas, peas itself - with potatoes, tomatoes and eggplants. Bach cultures are better to plant apart.

Other rules regarding what is planted with in beds, can be represented as a table:

Culture
beans.	cucumbers, potatoes, cabbage, salad, radishes, beets, tomatoes, eggplants, bahch culture	peas, garlic, bow
peas	cabbage, Salad, Carrot, Radish	beans, Potatoes, Garlic, Onions, Tomatoes
strawberry	garlic, onions, salad, radishes
cucumbers	beans, Garlic, Cabbage, Salad, Celery, Onions, Greens	tomatoes, radishes, potatoes, zucchini
potatoes	beans, onions, garlic, cabbage, eggplant, horseradish, carrots, dill, salad	tomatoes, peas, sunflower
cabbage	peas, cucumbers, potatoes, salad, radishes, beet	garlic, onions, tomatoes
beet	cucumbers, salad	onions, cabbage
tomatoes	garlic, Cabbage, Salad, Round Leek	peas, cucumbers, potatoes
onion	strawberries, cucumbers, salad, carrots, beets	beans, Cabbage, Tomatoes
pepper	cucumbers, Kohlrabi.	tomatoes, legumes
zucchini	bean, beets, bow	cucumbers

class \u003d "Table-Bordered"\u003e

"Neighbor enemies"

As can be seen from the given table, in addition to a good neighborhood, the neighborhood is also extremely unwanted. As a rule, "entangle" plants due to the incompatibility of the substances that they allocate. For example, the black walnut acts in oppressively on most vegetables because of the Uglon allocated to them. It is not good in vegetables and the neighboring neighbors. If there is a legume culture and bow nearby, it will also be bad to develop. With Fennel, they are inappropriately feeling literally all the cultures, so this plant It is better to plant separately from others. Poor and cucumbers, tomatoes and strawberries are also poorly compatible.
Eggplants and tomatoes do not like the neighborhood of other parires, there are no pepper and beets, cabbage and strawberries.

Did you know? I wonder what is beautiful and loved by everyone conifer treeAs spruce, has an adverse effect of almost all trees, and this impact is preserved by decades after the spruce itself has grown.

Sometimes it happens that plants have different effects on each other depending on their quantity. What is called, in a spoon, a medicine, and in a cup - poison. In this case, you can arrange a neighborhood of such a culture in small quantities, for example, around the edge of the garden. For example, such an experiment can be held with Valerian, yarrow or nettle, disembarking them with small groups near vegetables.

Thus, any gardener is important to know that after which it is to plant, and competent planning of sowing when landing is a way to protect the soil from exhaustion and help plants natural way to support each other for better growth and development.

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I plan to sneaking the carrot in the spring, where the cucumbers grew up this year. Tell me, can I do so and what should be the predecessors of carrots when landing?

Juicy orange roots in fertile soil grow smooth and large, but if nutrients are missing, a good harvest of carrots is unlikely to work out. Usually this situation happens if the sections do not comply with the rules of crop rotation and a vegetable from year to year are grown on one bed. To avoid a similar phenomenon, it is necessary to change the culture of places, and for this you need to know which predecessors are the best for the landing of carrots.

After whatever garden plants you can plant carrots?

It is better to sow carrot in those areas where they were previously grown:

• potatoes;
• tomatoes;
• salad.

Also, former cucumber beds are suitable for root, but not earlier than two years later. After cucumbers in the soil, there are many organic organics, and its excess carrot tolerates badly and often "burns" in the initial stages.

What predecessors should be avoided?

The least suitable for the site is the garden after parsley. This is due to the fact that parsley for its growing season creates in the ground comfortable conditions For the appearance and reproduction of pathogenic bacteria. As a result, the rootes begin to root, small, curves, with a dry pulp, and become defenseless in front of pests.

If it happened that the plot after parsley is the only free on the whole garden, you can try to disinfect it, shed a strong heatman solution directly before sowing carrots. Unfortunately, destroy all bacteria is unlikely to succeed, but so at least the carrot will have chances.

And what to plant after the carrot itself?

If after cucumbers it is not desirable to sow orange root, then the opposite action gives only a positive result. Landing on the site of carrots of cucumbers with manure makes it possible to restore the balance of beneficial substances in the soil, and in two years it will be possible to grow in this place carrots.

The following year after carrot, plant peppers, tomatoes, salad, cabbage.

How to protect the vegetable from carrot flies?

Wherever the carrots are planted, it will find it everywhere by smell, which is published root. And then with sweet roots you can say goodbye, because this pest loves them so much that he can "assign" at least half of the harvest to themselves.

In order to dare insect, experienced gardeners Use combined fit. So, to scare the fly, alternating carrot and onion (or garlic) beds. A good result also gives tobacco dust. It is mixed with the ashes and scatter in the aisle once a week.

Rules of crop rotation in the garden - video

What then plant? Competent planning Sowing

Table of crop rotation

Planning future crops, we must first consider the order of alternation of cultures. This is very important for the future harvest. Indeed, the correct crop turnover avoids the damage to pests and diseases, as well as to preserve soil fertility. Conversely, with the cultivation of the same vegetables, for several years in a row, the supply of nutrients in the beds is depleted and soil infections accumulate.

Experienced gardeners always take into account this factor, which allows them to receive more high yields. In order not to get confused in the "five weaves", it is worth drawing a plan of your garden for the coming summer and sample plan landing for the next year, observing right order Alternations of vegetable crops.

Cabbage

It is impossible to plant cabbage and other cruciferous (radishes, radish) in the same place earlier than in 2-3 years. Belococcal cabbage is better postponed after potatoes, tomatoes, onions of the reprint; Admissible landing after beans, peas, carrots and beets.

Potatoes

The best predecessors for potatoes - cabbage and various root corners. Bad precursor for potatoes - tomato, as these cultures have common pests and disease pathogens. It should not grow potatoes in the same place not earlier than -3.

Cucumbers

For cucumbers should look for a new place annually. They are placed after color and early white cabbage. You can also grown them after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.

Tomatoes

According to the rules of the agrotechniki, it is impossible to grow tomatoes after potatoes, as they say the diseases and pests in these cultures of these cultures. Good precursors for tomatoes - color and early white-baked cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, are allowed rooting and onions.

If you annually plant tomatoes in the same place, then the soil on this site becomes sour, so each fall under deep soil resistance you need to make lime-fluff in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq.m.), so How tomatoes grow on the soils of neutral (pH 6.5-7).

Beet

The cultivation of beets in one place should be carried out no more than once every three or four years. Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, patissons, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, leguminous crops. It is undesirable to plant beets after the vegetables of the resource of Maovy (Mangold, Spinach, again beet).

Onion

In one place onions can not be planted for more than three or four years in a row. The best predecessors of Luke - Culture, under which large doses contributed organic fertilizers, as well as cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes. On heavy clay soils onions will not give good harvest, It prefers light, loose fertile soils and good illumination.

Garlic

It is possible to grow garlic in one place for no more than two years, otherwise it is not to avoid soil infection with a stalk nematode.

It is better to let garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other selected cultures (except onion).

Carrot

Saw after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding salad), allowed after tomatoes and peas.

Eggplant

The best predecessors for eggplant are cucumber, onions, early cabbage, perennial herbs. It is impossible to plant eggplants where potatoes, tomatoes, phizalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew up last year.

Strawberry

The best predecessors for strawberries: radishes, salad, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radish, parsley, tours, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, and flowers (tulips, daffodils, velvets). On poor soil, the best strawberry predecessors - mustard, Faceliya (they are also honeycomb). Potatoes, tomatoes and other grained, as well as cucumbers are not suitable as precursors. After them, the sites can only be taken by strawberries after three or four years.

Strawberry

Strawberry is well sued after radish, beans, mustard, radish, pea, parsley, garlic. Available as predecessors potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers. It is impossible to place a strawberry after all kinds of families of the complex color (sunflower, Topinambur) and all types of iloko.

Together - better

Many years of experience and semelter of gardeners suggested another right decision - joint fit. This is convenient, and allows for little plot Get a large assortment of vegetables. However, not all vegetables can be placed in the closest neighborhood, since not all cultures have a favorable act on each other. This is explained by the mutual action of phytoncides and other volatile substances secreted by plants.

Carrot You can land with peas, mayoran, onions (it is even useful, since joint landings with a bow scare from her carrot flies). Bulb onions Arrangely adjacent to the beets, chicory, carrots. Peas and vegetable beans Perfectly get along with potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon and watermelon. TO potato It is quite possible to put vegetable beans and sugar corn, to cucumber - Dill and Corn, radish will benefit from the neighborhood with a cress of salad, and peas with a sheet mustard.

It has been proven that potatoes and beans, garlic and black currant have favorably affect each other. You can take the following bed: put a parsley, salad, and sow garlic between them.

As for the undesirable neighborhood, it is impossible to plant near Potatoes and cucumbers, white cabbage, strawberries and tomatoes, tomatoes and pumpkin. If the beans is placed near the bow, both cultures will be depressed.