Proverbs and sayings about May HORIZONTALLY: 2. May will deceive - in ... will leave.4 ....
After plants affected certain diseases and pests are planted by those that are resistant to them. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshade (tomato, potato). Related crops of plants (tomatoes-potatoes, cucumbers-pumpkins) suffer from the same diseases.
To avoid unilateral depletion of the soil, plants alternate depending on which nutrients they demand. In a simplified form, you can alternate "tops" and "roots" (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).
After onions and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended.
After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.
After cucumbers, zucchini, squash planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, potatoes.
After carrots, dill, parsley, celery, they plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.
After strawberries (after 4 years) - root crops and legumes, the next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, any crop can be planted.
The best predecessors of the main vegetable crops are:
for green crops (except lettuce) - cabbage, cucumber, root crops, onions;
For early white and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, turnip onions, legumes, root crops (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga);
For medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potatoes, legumes, carrots, beets;
For turnip onions - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;
For cucumber - early white and cauliflower, tomato, potato, legumes (except beans), root crops (except carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;
For carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops(except lettuce suffering from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans);
For beets - cucumber and other pumpkin, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;
For potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root crops, onions;
For tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, turnip onions, root crops, late cabbage;
For garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;
Plant compatibility
Joint planting of plants, taking into account their compatibility, allows you to increase the yield. In case of incompatibility (suppression) - yields are reduced.
Compatible plants :
For beans, the most favorable neighbors are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, spinach. The inclusion of beans in the plantings of these plants improves the nutrition of the latter with nitrogen. Fragrant basil, planted next to beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow.
Radish and oilseed radish have a beneficial effect on grapes.
Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.
Relationships of mutual assistance were noted in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops, and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard repels pea codling moth from peas and inhibits weeds
Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes secrete biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas.
Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas.
Strawberries are favorably affected by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley, planted in the aisles of strawberries - repels slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, garlic. Of the herbs, borage (orypechnaya grass) and sage work well for her. Mulching the soil during the formation of fruits with spruce and pine needles - significantly improves the taste of strawberries;
White cabbage as neighbors prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes.
Dill, planted between rows of cabbage, improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids.
Celery protects cabbage from ground fleas and cabbage flies, but attracts cabbage whites with its smell, which means that it is undesirable to place them together.
Cabbage is also favored by the proximity to borage, which has a good effect on cabbage and drives snails away with its hard, hairy leaves.
A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is lettuce (all types). It also protects it from the earthen flea.
Cabbage is in great need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay their eggs on its leaves. This role can be played by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, sage around plantings of cabbage.
Leek repels cutworm caterpillars.
In the aisle of cabbage, it is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtium, marigolds - they repel aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, whites.
Parsnip attracts predatory insects that destroy caterpillars.
Head lettuce, onions, celery, and beets are compatible with broccoli.
Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.
Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. Potatoes protect the beans from bruchus, and the beans feed the potatoes with nitrogen. The above plants complement each other favorably, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in mixed culture with compatible plants, it gets sick less and grows in one place for many years, with a stable yield. Potatoes are not indifferent to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. Beans planted between the rows of potatoes enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potato goes well with cabbage, especially with colored kohlrabi, corn, radish and different types lettuce, Horseradish planted in bushes on a potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansy. Phytoncides of onion and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - late blight.
Corn is one of the most demanding plants in terms of nutrition, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is the mainstay. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, lettuce. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. In terms of allelopathy, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes, sunflowers.
Corn is compacted with zucchini, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas and beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil.
Soy protects corn from turtle bugs
Bad neighbors for corn - table beet and celery
Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel onion fly, and onion - carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, parsley. Bordering onion beds with savory is favorable for onion growth, chamomile also works well for it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one - per running meter beds).
By placing individual plants onions and garlic next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.
Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree protects from gray rot.
Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, garlic, radishes and radishes, but are not compatible with cabbage.
Root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the garden - heal carrots.
Mint (melissa) - grows well in sorrel thickets.
Strawberries are grown under sea buckthorn or medicinal herbs: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea.
Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage, but shun vine. If dill is sown between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and hence the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, parsley. Onion phytoncides kill spider mites on cucumbers.
The nut has no compatible crops;
Tomatoes will help spring garlic and dill. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To scare away butterflies, codling moths and protect against scab of pears and apple trees, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes secrete biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, and beans.
Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes;
Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkins and spinach;
Lettuce repels earthen flea from radish, radish, cabbage;
Radishes planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. This is facilitated, as well - nasturtium and watercress.
Beets get along well with lettuce, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;
Celery prefers neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onions, cucumber, cabbage
Currants are not damaged by bud mites if you plant onions between bushes and leave them in the ground for the winter.
Soy is friendly with all cultures.
Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against the nematode.
Beans, pumpkins and corn have long been planted together. Pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds, shading the soil with its foliage, corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, as they take moisture and nutrients from different horizons of the soil, different mineral elements are needed for their development, and they relate differently to lighting.
Planted between vegetables and trees spicy plants- anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides - prevents the spread of pests and diseases.
If marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory are planted between the ridges of potatoes or onions, bunches of rye straw are plowed into the soil, they will protect these crops from nematode damage. Marigolds, mustard leaf, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil.
If you make a marigold border around the area on which the roses are planted, the defeat of roses by nematodes will become impossible.
Parsley will drive away ants, and it also heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.
Tansy cineraria, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, cabbage scoop caterpillars and whitefish, and apple trees from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and red tansy close to it. These plants are also known under the names of Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile.
Get along with the salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;
Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, sugar beets. Beans are useful for planting other crops, as they help get rid of the meadow moth.
Garlic protects asters, carnations, gladioli, roses from powdery mildew, black leg, black spot and fusarium, reduces the incidence of carnation gray mold.
Apple tree - raspberry
Stevia (Honey Grass) - can grow alongside garlic and onions, even in flower pot, on the window.
Celery, dill, onion, carrot well planted side by side. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other.
Incompatible plants:
Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes;
Peas - incompatible with swede, beans, tomato;
Garoch and beans conflict with onions and garlic;
Combinations of peas with all kinds of onions, tomatoes, garlic, swede, beans are unfavorable;
Poor effect on peas - wormwood;
The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown;
Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Cabbage is not combined with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from closely growing grapes;
Tansy does not work well on kale.
Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkins (they can cause late blight disease in him);
Potatoes are oppressed by: cherry, apple tree, raspberry, mountain ash, sunflower;
Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkin;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;
Bad neighbors for corn are table beets and celery;
Currants and gooseberries cannot be planted side by side (gooseberry fire damage);
Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans, (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.
Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, this contributes to the reproduction of the strawberry-raspberry weevil;
Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshade - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases;
Cucumbers are suppressed by tomatoes;
Cucumbers feud with potatoes and aromatic herbs;
The peach depresses the cherry, pear and apple tree. They need to be planted away from each other.
Parsley - cucumber, head lettuce;
Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnip, peas, beets, parsley, apple tree, red cabbage; Tomatoes are oppressed by potatoes and turnips.
Radish - spinach;
Redkin's enemy is hyssop;
Lettuce is incompatible with leaf mustard;
Beets do not get along well with potatoes, spinach, corn;
Poplar is very aggressive - many people suffocate in its vapors. cultivated plants(apple, corn);
Pumpkin - potatoes;
Beans - suppressed by shallots;
Fennel - oppresses almost all cultivated plants.
The action of herbs: sage is incompatible with onions, marigolds have a bad effect on beans, wormwood - on beans and peas, and tansy - on leafy cabbage;
I welcome you friends on the site advice to gardeners. Crop rotation in the garden is an effective alternation in time of planting vegetable crops, which makes it possible to increase yields by a relatively small area. What are the advantages of crop rotation and why is it given such an important role in agricultural technology?
Purpose of crop rotation
Many inexperienced gardeners, having received excellent harvest of a particular crop from a particular piece of land, they mistakenly believe that this place is the most suitable for this vegetable. However, permanent planting on the site of the same crop invariably leads to a decrease in yield and a deterioration in its quality indicators.
This is due to a number of reasons:
1. As a result of long-term cultivation of the same crop in one area, the soil accumulates great amount pathogens and pests specific to a given plant species. When planting a vegetable of a different type, harmful microorganisms and pests that are deprived of food die.
2. In the process of life root system plants release certain substances into the soil and absorb others from it. If the same vegetable is planted in one place for a long time, the natural balance of the soil composition is disturbed, there is an oversaturation with isolated microelements and a lack of consumed ones.
The balance can be restored by planting a suitable follower crop. In this case, it is useful to take into account not only the type of planted vegetable, but also the degree of penetration of its roots into the soil. In other words, it is recommended to alternate tops with roots.
3. Some agricultural crops, due to an underdeveloped vegetation system, are weakly resistant to weeds, as a result of which their active growth occurs. The subsequent planting of plants with large leaves that can suppress weeds will significantly reduce the number of "invaders".
4. Some vegetables, especially demanding on soil fertility, literally "devour" most nutrients contained in the soil. To replenish the supply of food for the next year, it is recommended to plant plants that can restore and enrich the soil.
A three-year crop rotation cycle is considered optimal, that is, a certain agricultural crop should return to its original place of cultivation no earlier than after three years.
To organize a competent crop rotation on your site, you need to know what you can then plant and actively use this useful information on practice.
What can be planted after that, optimal alternation options
Based on numerous agrotechnical studies, developed best options alternations, given that even a novice gardener will know what to plant after and will not be left without a crop.
So, note to gardeners:
1. Potatoes - can be planted after cucumbers, peas, beans and cabbage. Onions, beets and carrots are suitable as previous crops. Do not plant after tomatoes, peppers and eggplant.
2. Tomatoes - onions, carrots, cauliflower, cucumbers, green crops are suitable as predecessor crops. Planting after beets is allowed. It is not recommended to plant after potatoes.
3. Onions and garlic - well planted after legumes, cucumbers, carrots and potatoes. You can after cabbage, beets and tomatoes, but do not stand after pepper. Also, in no case should you plant onions and garlic repeatedly in one place.
4. Cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, patissons - grow well after potatoes, tomatoes, legumes, onions. Planting after beets and green crops is acceptable. Cannot be planted again.
5. Carrots - feels great after onions and cucumbers, can be sown after cabbage, beets or radishes. There are no particularly forbidden cultures.
2. Almost all crops feel good at the planting site of garlic and onions, but their re-planting in the same area is unacceptable.
In order not to get confused and not to lose the order of planting, it is recommended that the site owner draw a plan of his garden before the start of the summer season and, conditionally breaking it into parts, mark the planting sites of certain crops. The plan drawn up must be saved until the next season, it will be invaluable in planning plantings.
Neighboring cultures
Because on small area a variety of crops are grown, the tasks of foreign crop rotation include determining not only the sequence of plantings, but also their neighborhood. In other words, the gardener needs to know what to plant with what.
The proximity of some crops has a beneficial effect on their yield and taste, while the proximity of others, on the contrary, is absolutely contraindicated for this or that vegetable.
To choose the right neighbors for each culture, it is worth remembering that:
- Colorado potato beetle beans are great as a compact crop for potatoes and eggplants.
- Peas, which saturate the soil with nitrogen, are an excellent neighbor for beets, cucumbers and turnips.
- Garlic planted along the potato will protect it from late blight.
- Dill, mint and celery protect cabbage from numerous pests.
- For tomatoes, an onion planted on a feather is suitable as a neighbor.
- Parsley, planted next to strawberries, will scare away slugs.
- Beets get along well with onions, lettuce and beans.
- Onions and carrots are very friendly, protecting each other from pest attacks.
- Cauliflower is friendly to cucumbers, lettuce, potatoes, and celery.
- Carrots are not "friends" with dill and cabbage, and the proximity of its planting to the apple tree will negatively affect palatability harvest of both.
- Tomatoes should not be planted next to potatoes and cauliflower.
- Onions are incompatible with radishes, cabbage and legumes.
- Pepper does not tolerate proximity with fennel and beans.
- Parsley doesn't like being around head lettuce, potatoes, and corn.
Based on the foregoing, we can conclude that the correct crop rotation is a guarantee full development and productivity of agricultural crops cultivated at their summer cottage.
Crop rotation is one of the most important agrotechnical rules, which is an indispensable condition for obtaining a good harvest. The alternation of crops in the garden should be carried out taking into account the predecessor, the state of the soil (acidity, fertility level, moisture capacity, etc.) and the phytosanitary situation (whether outbreaks of fungal diseases or the mass spread of pests were observed). To improve and improve the condition of the soil, it is recommended to include green manure in the crop rotation.
Competent crop rotation significantly reduces the risk of plant damage by various diseases, the process of accumulation of pests in the soil, and also increases soil fertility and provides a more complete use of plants useful substances located in the soil.
When vegetables are planted in the same places in a row for several years, soil infections accumulate in the soil with a gradual depletion of the soil.
The task of changing planting sites is to ensure that previous crops prepare the ground for subsequent ones. This takes into account the economic and economic component. For example, it is rational to plant after early vegetables that free up the site at the end of summer. winter garlic or rye, like green manure. And vice versa, it is physically impossible after late-harvested crops to carry out early spring sowing in the garden.
It is also important to take into account the peculiarities of tillage for each crop (in particular, the depth of digging) and the structure of the root system. Garden crops with a deeply penetrating tap root system are planted after crops with a superficially located fibrous root system.
We draw up an approximate scheme of a summer cottage with the placement of beds
Experienced summer residents begin preparations for the summer season in advance. After placing vegetable crops on the beds in the previous year, a plan for their detailed location is drawn up. This work can be done on a sheet of graph paper and in a special country notebook. You should not rely on your memory, because in 2-3 years everything will be messed up, and the crop rotation cycle should have 5 years (ideally, it is advisable to return each crop to its original place after 5 seasons).
Having a plan of our site, we distribute crops in the beds according to the principle of "coexistence". For example, it is not recommended to place eggplant and tomatoes, cucumber and radish, beets and beans on neighboring beds. Good neighbors will be onions and carrots, cucumber and corn, white cabbage and beets. Zucchini and pepper coexist with all cultures.
Since potatoes are often cultivated continuously, it is necessary to use winter green manure crops (for example, winter rye) to restore fertility and improve the soil. We divide the plot into two parts: we allocate one for early potato varieties, the other for late ones. In the second year, we sow the part of the site vacated after early potatoes with green manure and next year we occupy late varieties. So it turns out a simplified version of crop rotation.
It is very convenient to use a pre-prepared crop rotation scheme for 5 years in advance. Below is an example of a scheme for our site with 16 beds for the main crops. It is also worth marking on which bed and in what year fresh manure was introduced.
| bed number | 1st year | 2nd year | 3rd year | 4th year | 5th year |
| 1 | carrot | corn | cucumber | onion | radish and daikon |
| 2 | onion | White cabbage | green | zucchini | |
| 3 | White cabbage | beet | tomatoes | cucumber | peas |
| 4 | beet | zucchini | onion | peas | pepper |
| 5 | garlic | carrot | zucchini | tomatoes | beet |
| 6 | tomatoes | onion | pumpkin | carrot | eggplant |
| 7 | pepper | radish and daikon | garlic | zucchini | tomatoes |
| 8 | greens (lettuce, dill, parsley) | green | corn | radish and daikon | cucumber |
| 9 | radish and daikon | pumpkin | pepper | beet | corn |
| 10 | zucchini | eggplant | beans | garlic | pumpkin |
| 11 | beans | pepper | radish and daikon | beans | carrot |
| 12 | eggplant | cucumber | beet | corn | beans |
| 13 | pumpkin | garlic | peas | pepper | White cabbage |
| 14 | peas | tomatoes | White cabbage | pumpkin | garlic |
| 15 | cucumber | peas | carrot | eggplant | onion |
| 16 | corn | beans | eggplant | White cabbage | green |
Implement all the requirements of crop rotation in practice under conditions limited area actually very difficult.
But there are 3 blunders that should not be allowed:
- return the culture to its original place earlier than after 3 years;
- choose a culture from one family as a predecessor;
- after root crops, plant root crops.
It is imperative to take into account the compatibility of cultures when planting closely, but sometimes an undesirable neighborhood can become inevitable. In our example, an eggplant bed is adjacent to tomatoes, which is undesirable from the point of view of the spread of diseases, but the plants themselves do not oppress each other.
When drawing up a crop rotation scheme for vegetable crops, it is necessary to take into account when manure was introduced on the site. For example, root crops planted after fresh manure application will have a twisted, ugly shape, and the fruits themselves will have poor taste.
It is recommended to apply fresh manure for cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkin. Therefore, these crops should go first in the crop rotation after filling the soil with fresh organic matter. Potatoes in this case can be planted only in the third year.
Distribution by families of main vegetable crops
When planning a crop rotation, it is necessary to comply with the condition - vegetables are planted at intervals of 3 to 4 years in the former places belonging to the same family, and the longer this period is, the better.
The exceptions are: potatoes, strawberries, beans, which can be planted for years in the same place, provided there are no specialized pests and a high degree of disease development.
With a small garden area, most summer residents are forced to plant individual crops in a permanent place, especially potatoes, which occupy the largest area on the site.
It is accepted in agricultural technology next distribution major horticultural crops for individual main families:
- onion - onions of all kinds, garlic;
- solanaceous - physalis, eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes, peppers;
- legumes - soybeans, beans, peas, beans, peanuts, cowpea, rank;
- umbrella - parsley, carrots, celery, dill, cilantro, cumin;
- cruciferous - radish, cabbage of all kinds, daikon, radish, turnip, watercress;
- pumpkin - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, melon, watermelon, squash;
- haze - chard, spinach, beets;
- aster - lettuce, sunflower, tarragon, Jerusalem artichoke, artichoke;
- labiales - marjoram, savory, hyssop, lemon balm, peppermint, basil;
- buckwheat - rhubarb, sorrel.
To prevent one-sided depletion of the soil, the planting of plants is alternated, taking into account what nutrients they require. In a greatly simplified form, this is an alternation of tops and roots (for example, carrots are planted after cabbage or tomatoes).
After garlic and onions, planting any crops is allowed, but re-sowing them in one place is highly undesirable.
Predecessor table
Each crop uses a certain amount of nutrients to form a crop, while releasing into the soil toxic substances as a waste product. Toxins can accumulate and inhibit other vegetable plants. With this in mind, each species can be grown after certain crops. The following table provides recommendations for choosing a predecessor.
| Planting culture | Antecedent cultures | ||
| Recommended | Allowed | Excluded | |
| Potato | Pumpkin, legumes, cabbage and cauliflower | Beets, corn, carrots, onions | tomatoes, peppers, eggplant |
| Garlic, onion | Tomato, white cabbage and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin | Pepper, eggplant, corn | Onion garlic |
| tomatoes | Pumpkin, legumes, cabbage | Beets, onions, garlic | Potato, physalis, tobacco, pepper, eggplant |
| Cucumber, pumpkin, squash, zucchini | Peas, beans, early potatoes, early white cabbage and cauliflower | Greens, tomatoes | Pumpkin |
| Peas, beans, beans | Cucumber, pumpkin, potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes | Corn | |
| Carrot | White cabbage, tomatoes, legumes, onion, cucumber | Garlic, eggplant, pepper | Root parsley, celery |
| Green and aromatic spices | Cabbage, pumpkin, legumes | Onions, tomatoes, beets | Parsnips, carrots |
| eggplant, pepper | Pumpkin, cabbage, legumes | Beets, green | Nightshade |
| Table beets | Early potatoes, cucumber, tomatoes, early white cabbage | Onion | Carrots, beets |
| Cabbage | Beets, cucumber, onion, potatoes, tomatoes | carrot, pepper | Beet, turnip, radish, radish, daikon |
| vegetable corn | Beets, carrots, green | ||
| Radish and daikon | Undemanding to predecessor | cruciferous | |
Previous, compacted and repeated crops
In small garden plots, it is important to obtain the largest possible yield per unit area. One of the expedient methods of achieving this is the joint cultivation, re-sowing and previous sowing of green manure, allowing several horticultural crops to be cultivated on the same area during one season.
Many vegetable crops ripen from one to three months after sowing. And the seeds of carrots, parsley, parsnips, the first 30-40 days grow very slowly, taking up little space in the garden. The unused area can be successfully used for compact crops.
Re-sowing can be done after harvest early varieties potatoes and cabbage, which are harvested already in early June. Previous crops can be located on the planned planting sites for seedlings or heat-loving plants that are planted about a month later.
Crop rotation - important rule, helping to achieve the highest quality and plentiful harvest on any garden plot. If you regularly change the place of sowing and planting different cultures, it is possible to ensure that each plant receives the necessary and proper amount of nutrients from the soil. Also, the “neighborhood” of vegetables requires compliance, because many plant diseases can be transmitted to nearby families of vegetables.
What to plant next year: table
Every gardener and experienced gardener knows that sowing must be literate. Moreover, planting a variety of crops and plants: vegetables, berries, fruits, herbs is not only pleasant, but also useful activity. It allows a person to develop, engage in health, exercise, breathe and enjoy nature, visit more fresh air, take a break from city life, get aesthetic pleasure, grow food for yourself.
Everyone who daily cultivates a garden will certainly be pleased good harvest. In order for it to be impressive, fertile and good, you must definitely adhere to certain rules and queues for planting seeds, seedlings and so on.
Not every gardener knows that it is impossible to plant the same plants every year in the same place. The fact is that the roots of plants tend to produce certain enzymes (peculiar secretions), which literally poison the soil every year and make it less fertile. It is for this reason that every time it is necessary to do a crop rotation - firstly, and secondly, to observe the alternation of sowing: what and what needs to be planted.
When planting each plant, you need to know in detail about how much time and seasons it can be in the soil, how long it takes to plant and the type of fertilizer.
Proper and organized planting of vegetables has many advantages:
- reduces the number of possible earthen pests
- reduces the number of various pathogens for plants
- improves and increases the amount of nutrients in the soil
- allows the correct use of various fertilizers
- minimizes Negative influence fertilizers for soil and plants
- allows you to dig the soil more often and deeper, which is useful for plants
Table of the correct planting and alternation of vegetables in the garden plot:
correct planting vegetables with alternation, then what to plant
table of compatibility and correct "neighborhood" of plants in the garden
What to plant after strawberries, then plant strawberries and why?
Strawberries are a tasty and beloved berry, how big your harvest will be depends on how carefully you choose a place for planting it. Strawberries can grow fertilely in one place for no more than four years. After this time, you can notice such negative changes as:
- berries get smaller
- the plant wears out and ages
- the plant gets sick more often
- the plant rarely dies
The soil under strawberries is depleted in four years, it becomes infected with a variety of diseases, and there are many pests in it. Transplanting to the site where other crops used to grow will help improve the yield and its quality.
where to plant strawberries? then plant strawberries? In the place where strawberries used to grow, you can plant a completely opposite plant, for example, a root crop:
- potato
- celery
- carrot
- beet
- garlic
Root crop - the best way for planting, but this does not mean that you cannot plant other crops on this site, for example, zucchini or cucumbers. After you clear the area of strawberries, carefully dig it up and conduct a thorough mineralization.
It is important to know that you should not plant in the soil where strawberries have grown before. The fact is that strawberries are rosaceous, which means that all related crops, for example raspberries or blackberries, will be contraindicated. Also not recommended fruit trees. A sufficient amount of time must pass and it is necessary to produce all types of fertilizer and "improvement" of the soil.
Speaking about after which you can plant strawberries, it is worth noting that this plant is not whimsical and gets along well on the soil, where previously there were a variety of root crops, legumes, greens and even nightshade.
What to plant after cabbage, then plant cabbage and why?
Cabbage is planted with seedlings, it is important to buy only stocky and healthy-looking seedlings - this is a guarantee of a good harvest, tasty and healthy fruits. Seedlings must have strong and dense leaves. It should be planted in the ground, digging right up to the outlet and carefully tamping the ground.
Also, the fertility of the crop will be affected by a good neighborhood that will accompany the vegetable on the site. There are a few simple rules to follow. It is best to plant cabbage in the soil where the crop was previously:
- any root crops
- legumes
- grain crops
- gourds
how and after what should cabbage be planted? It is important to know that cabbage cannot be grown for more than three years in a row in the same soil. After you have harvested, the soil must be dug up and mineralized.
It is known that cabbage, after growing for more than two years in one area, is able to take all the most useful from the soil. After cabbage, you can plant cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes or onions.
What to plant after cucumbers, then plant cucumbers and why?
Cucumbers are able to "endure" and bear fruit on the same soil for no more than four years in a row. After this time, you should definitely change the site so that your harvest is good and plentiful.
As practice shows, cucumbers grow best on the land where they previously bore fruit:
- any variety and type of cabbage
- root vegetables (carrots - not desirable)
- legumes (best: peas and beans)
- regular and leafy greens
rules for planting cucumbers in the garden A good harvest of cucumbers can be favored by a good neighborhood, which includes dill, various legumes, leafy greens, salads, fennel.
For the real gardener important information is also what crop should be planted after cucumbers for the next year. We can say with confidence that the best crops will be produced on this soil:
- bulbous crops
- some root vegetables: beets or celery
- radish and radish
What to plant after tomatoes, then plant tomatoes and why?
Tomato is one of the most beloved vegetables. However, getting a good and fertile crop of tomatoes is quite difficult. To do this, you should follow all the rules for alternating planting plants in the ground in a garden plot.
First of all, you should know that tomatoes and families related to its classification - melons and nightshades, unfortunately, "sick" with the same diseases. It is for this reason that it is not recommended to plant a tomato in the soil where its native vegetables previously “lived”, and also not to plant them in the neighborhood.
how to plant a tomato? Tomatoes will give a decent harvest where previously grown crops such as:
- gourds (including pumpkin, melon and zucchini)
- some root vegetables: turnips, beets
- bulbous plants
- leafy and common greens
- potato
- any kind of pepper
- nightshade
- physalis
After you have harvested a good tomato crop and want to transplant them to another site, the old soil will be suitable for many unpretentious crops: bulbs, legumes, some root crops and greens.
After tomatoes, berries such as strawberries and strawberries should not be planted in the soil, since soil diseases are quite capable of moving to the roots of these plants.
What to plant after hot pepper, then plant hot pepper and why?
Pepper is a nightshade vegetable, therefore, plants of this family cannot be planted before planting on the soil where pepper used to grow. It is impossible to plant pepper on the same soil where it grew last year, it is necessary that about three years have passed since that moment.
Pepper is a "capricious" crop that is very demanding on the quality of the soil.
The best precursor crops for hot peppers are:
- cucumbers
- leafy greens
- herbs
- cabbage
- legumes
hot pepper crop rotation Extremely bad after pepper in the soil will take root:
- potato
- beet
- carrot
- celery
- tomato
If you follow all the basic rules for fertilizing the soil and alternating crop rotation, then the crop of bitter pepper will delight you not only with its quality and good quantity.
What to plant after sweet pepper, then plant sweet pepper and why?
Sweet peppers are more whimsical than hot peppers. However, the requirements for planting it are similar to all types of this vegetable.
Best of all, pepper will take root after:
- any bulbous plants
- gourds
- leafy and regular greens
- cabbage of any kind and variety
- all legumes
After sweet pepper, you can confidently plant root crops in the soil, they will give a good and high-quality crop.
after which it is correct to plant Bell pepper? What to plant after potatoes, then plant potatoes and why?
Potatoes are a frequent and popular vegetable in every garden. He is able to successfully fertilize in the same place for several years, but it is simply impossible to imagine that he often changes the place for him when everyone square meter on account. Therefore, the most important and important rule to follow is to take into account the wishes for the "neighborhood" and crop rotation of other crops.
Potatoes are able to give a good harvest in the place where they grew before:
- various gourds
- any bulb crops
- any leguminous plant
- some root vegetables: radish or radish
how to plant potatoes It is worth noting that the soil after potatoes is quite depleted and “worn out”, therefore it is recommended to plant green manure crops in it, that is, those that will “heal” it and let it “rest”.
These plants are:
- mustard
- cereals
- legumes
- phacelia
- pumpkin
- eggplant - they will give a meager harvest or die altogether
- tomatoes - they are extremely demanding on the quality of the soil
- pepper - it is whimsical to the soil and requires a high content of nutrients in it
What to plant after garlic, then plant garlic and why?
In addition to its excellent qualities, this bulbous plant is able to “spoil” the soil, literally “sucking” most of it out of it. minerals and attracting many insect pests. best crops that grew in the soil before garlic was planted are any crops, with the only exceptions being oats and barley. The soil on which they previously grew is considered good:
- edible and leafy greens
- Clover
- alfalfa
- melon vegetables
- Strawberry
- strawberries and other berries
after what should garlic be planted? Garlic is extremely unsuccessfully accepted by the soil and will lead to a poor harvest if any root crops have been harvested on it before: from potatoes to carrots.
What to plant after beets, then plant beets and why?
You can get a good harvest of beets if you meet all the requirements for planting this vegetable in the soil. Beets are quite unpretentious to the soil and often get along even on a “depleted” site.
Beetroot will give many large fruits if the soil in which it was planted before was the place of growth:
- melon family vegetables
- cabbage of any kind and variety
- tomatoes of any kind
- any kind of pepper
- any root crops
- any bulb crops
after what should beetroot be planted? After beets in the soil, crops such as:
- leafy green vegetables and any greens
- bulb crops: fennel, onion, garlic
- some hardy root crops
- any legumes
What to plant after onions, then plant onions and why?
It is best to plant onions in the soil where other bulbous plants have not grown before, because such soil is “empty” for many trace elements useful to it. Onions will take root where they previously grew:
- melon vegetables
- nightshade family vegetables
- roots
- leafy vegetables and herbs
- any legumes
how to plant onions A good harvest can be obtained if, after the onion harvest next year, plant:
- root crops: carrots, beets, celery and others
- legumes
- leafy vegetables and herbs
- tomatoes
What to plant after a pumpkin, then plant a pumpkin and why?
Pumpkin is able to deplete the soil, taking some trace elements from it, but giving it completely different ones.
Favorable for pumpkins will be the soil where they previously grew:
- any kind of pepper
- root vegetables
- cabbage
- bulbous vegetables
- leafy and regular greens
- leguminous plants
- corn
what should be planted after pumpkin? Pumpkin should be planted where it previously grew:
- bulbous plants
- roots
- cabbage of any kind
- legumes
- leafy vegetables and herbs
What to plant after radishes, then plant radishes and why?
Radish is not the most whimsical vegetable, but its yield is closely dependent on what grew on the soil before it. Any legume is considered the best option. Other permitted plants include:
- melon family vegetables
- cabbage in any form
- tomatoes and tomatoes
- potatoes and other root vegetables
After radishes, the soil will accept well and please with a harvest from plants such as:
- roots
- melon vegetables
- greenery
- leafy vegetables
how to plant radishes What to plant after carrots, then plant carrots and why?
Carrots "love" prepared soil very much: plowed, dug up and fertilized. You can plant carrots after almost any plant, but not after the carrot itself.
Best of all, carrots will take root where they used to grow:
- bulbous vegetables
- tomatoes and other nightshade vegetables
- cabbage of any variety and any kind
- potatoes and other root vegetables
- lettuce and leafy vegetables
- greenery
After carrots, crops such as:
- melon family vegetables
- lettuce and any other leafy vegetables
- cabbage of any kind
- mustard
- any greens
how to plant carrots then plant carrots? What to plant after eggplant, then plant eggplant and why?
Gardeners know that eggplant can get along well with many crops. They perfectly coexist with nightshade, but categorically do not grow in the soil after them.
Eggplants should not be planted in the soil after:
- peppers of any variety and any kind
- tomatoes and other nightshade vegetables
- potatoes, as well as some other root crops: carrots, beets
Best of all, eggplants take root where they previously grew:
- cabbage of any variety and type
- greens and leafy vegetables
- salad
- legumes
after what should you plant eggplant? What to plant after peas, then plant peas and why?
Legumes, in particular peas, are excellent precursors to crops such as:
- nightshade family vegetables
- melon family vegetables
- cabbage of any kind and variety
- bulbous vegetables
- roots
It is worth noting that after legumes and peas, you can plant almost any crop, since the soil is considered "rested".
after what should peas be planted? What to plant after zucchini, then plant zucchini and why?
Zucchini, like pumpkin, are able to accept any soil, even one that is very "tired" of the previous crop. They are not whimsical in cultivation and all they need is water and light. Zucchini feed on completely different nutrients than any root vegetables and nightshades, and often successfully coexist with these vegetables.
It is possible to get a good and high-quality crop of zucchini if you plant them in the soil where they were harvested before:
- legumes
- bulbous plants
- greens and leafy vegetables, lettuce
- nightshade crops
- roots
The zucchini feeds on the soil at its level, and therefore the subsequent planting of plants of completely different families will be the most successful:
- tomatoes will take root well and give a good harvest
- this place will be extremely successful for any root crops
- legumes
- any cabbage
- eggplant
- bulbous plants
In no case should zucchini be planted next to other melon vegetables, because they need the same supply of soil nutrients and can suffer from the same “diseases”.
then plant a zucchini? What to plant after parsley, then plant parsley and why?
The success of a good and high-quality harvest is the constant change of plots for planting vegetables. So crops have the opportunity to receive the necessary nutrients, grow large fruits and not die.
If you plant greens in the same place every year for several years, then it is hardly possible to achieve a good harvest. In the end, the soil is depleted, does not have the right set of trace elements and the plant is doomed to death. Parsley is a green that can take root in any place where it has not yet grown:
- after nightshade vegetables
- in the place of growth of root crops
- where previously there were melons and gourds
- in soil after bulbous plants
The only limitation is considered other greens, leafy vegetables, which feed on the same set of micronutrients. It is not advisable to sow parsley where sorrel, lettuce, dill, basil and other similar plants have previously grown.
then plant parsley? After parsley, it is allowed to plant any vegetable crop in the ground - everything except greens.
What to plant after sorrel, then plant sorrel and why?
Like any leafy vegetables, as well as greens, sorrel feeds on microelements at a certain soil level. You can even plant sorrel there, where tomatoes, potatoes and other vegetables have grown for many years before.
Sorrel can only not take root in the soil that for many years yielded any greens, lettuce, spinach, parsley and dill. After sorrel, it is recommended to plant absolutely any family of vegetables.
then plant sorrel? What to plant after melon and watermelon, then plant melons and watermelons, and why?
Melon and watermelon are fruits of the melon family. They do not have deep roots and grow where the soil is well moistened and there is an abundance of light. It is known that in order to get an impressive and good harvest of these fruits, they need to be without fail grow separately from each other and from related crops. This is because the soil is able to spread their "family" diseases and quickly deplete their supply of essential nutrients.
Best of all, both melon and watermelon will bear fruit where they were previously planted:
- nightshade vegetables
- any root vegetables
- legumes
- cabbage
- greenery
- leafy vegetables and salad
- bulbous vegetables
Taking away the necessary nutrients from the soil, gourds leave a supply of microelements that will favorably affect the harvest of other crops. Therefore, after melon and watermelon, you can plant in the soil:
- any root vegetables
- tomatoes, eggplant, pepper
- bulbous crops
- leguminous plants
- greens and leafy vegetables
where and after what to plant watermelon and melon? What to plant after beans, then plant beans and why?
Unlike other legumes, it can be said that beans are the most demanding plant of the entire family. It always gives a good harvest only if the soil is full of nutrients, moist and saturated with fertilizer. Beans do not "tolerate" weeds and love the land clean from them.
Beans will never sprout where sunflowers were previously harvested. However, it will be good after:
- root crops
- solanaceous
- corn
- grain crops
- gourds
Beans are a good precursor vegetable for most other plants. But it is worth knowing that it is the beans that should be replanted annually, since it tends to “sick” often and abundantly.
then plant beans? What to plant after dill, then plant dill and why?
Dill - the most unpretentious plant, which can grow in absolutely any place and in any soil. Most often, dill independently spreads and moves around the garden plot, choosing the most comfortable place for yourself. Dill does not require any strict adherence to crop rotation and neighborhood and always gives a large and good harvest. Dill can be safely planted and sown where the soil requires "rest".
then plant dill? What to plant after corn, then plant corn and why?
Corn is a crop that "loves" plowed soil, moistened and nourished with fertilizers. You can get a good harvest of this plant if it is planted on soil that was previously sown with legumes or other cereals. The quality of the crop also depends on how good and nutritious the regular feeding of the crop will be.
After corn, you can safely plant crops such as:
- peas and other legumes (soybeans or beans)
- some root vegetables, if the soil is sufficiently moist, such as beets or carrots
- perennial greens and leafy vegetables
- winter crops
then plant corn? What to plant after mustard, then plant mustard and why?
Mustard is a popular oilseed spring crop, which is extremely useful to include in crop rotation in any garden plot. Mustard "does not age" or "deplete" the soil, and therefore it is often planted when the earth should be given a short or long "rest" from nightshade vegetables or root vegetables.
Row crops, as well as cereals, are the best option, which can grow on soil up to mustard. In this case, it will give the highest quality and plentiful harvest.
then plant mustard? Video: What to plant after strawberries?
Gardeners and summer residents, especially beginners, will find this memo useful. Yes, and not beginners at the beginning of the sowing season will not hurt to refresh their memory
The plant is returned to the place where it grew no earlier than after 3-4 years. There are exceptions: tomato, beans, strawberries, potatoes - they can grow in the same place for years. The principle of fruit change implies that the predecessors prepare the ground for the next plants. Plants with a shallow root system are followed by plants with a deep root system.
After plants affected by certain diseases and pests, those that are resistant to them are planted. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshade (tomato, potato). Related crops of plants (tomatoes-potatoes, cucumbers-pumpkins) suffer from the same diseases.
To avoid one-sided depletion of the soil, plants alternate depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form, you can alternate tops and roots (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).
After onions and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended.
After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.
After cucumbers, zucchini, squash planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, potatoes.
After carrots, dill, parsley, celery, they plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.
After strawberries (after 4 years) - root crops and legumes, the next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, any crop can be planted.
The best predecessors of the main vegetable crops are:
for green crops (except lettuce) - cabbage, cucumber, root crops, onions;
for early white and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, turnip onions, legumes, root crops (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga);
for medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potatoes, legumes, carrots, beets;
for turnip onions - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;
for cucumber - early white and cauliflower, tomato, potatoes, legumes (except beans), root crops (except carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;
for carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except lettuce, suffering from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans);
for beets - cucumber and other pumpkin, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;
for potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root crops, onions;
for tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, turnip onions, root crops, late cabbage;
for garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;
Compatible plants:
Cherry - raspberry
Eggplants are recommended to be planted among bush beans, which repel the Colorado potato beetle.
Favorably affects eggplant - savory.
For beans, the most favorable neighbors are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, spinach. The inclusion of beans in the plantings of these plants improves the nutrition of the latter with nitrogen. Fragrant basil, planted next to beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow.
Radish and oilseed radish have a beneficial effect on grapes.
Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.
Relationships of mutual assistance were noted in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops, and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard repels pea codling moth from peas and inhibits weeds
Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes secrete biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas.
Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas.
Strawberries are favorably affected by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley, planted in the aisles of strawberries - repels slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, garlic. Of the herbs, borage (orypechnaya grass) and sage work well for her. Mulching the soil during the formation of fruits with spruce and pine needles significantly improves the taste of strawberries;
White cabbage as neighbors prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes.
Dill, planted between rows of cabbage, improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids.
Celery protects cabbage from ground fleas and cabbage flies, but attracts cabbage whites with its smell, which means that it is undesirable to place them together.
Cabbage is also favored by the proximity to borage, which has a good effect on cabbage and drives snails away with its hard, hairy leaves.
A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is lettuce (all types). It also protects it from the earthen flea.
Cabbage is in great need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay their eggs on its leaves. This role can be played by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, sage around plantings of cabbage.
Leek repels cutworm caterpillars.
In the aisle of cabbage, it is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtium, marigolds - they repel aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, whites.
Parsnip attracts predatory insects that destroy caterpillars.
Head lettuce, onions, celery, and beets are compatible with broccoli.
Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.
Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. Potatoes protect the beans from bruchus, and the beans feed the potatoes with nitrogen. The above plants complement each other favorably, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in a mixed culture with compatible plants, it gets sick less and grows in one place for many years, with a stable yield. Potatoes are not indifferent to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. Beans planted between the rows of potatoes enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially with colored kohlrabi, corn, radishes and various types of lettuce. Horseradish planted in bushes along the potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansy. Phytoncides of onion and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - late blight.
Corn is one of the most demanding plants in terms of nutrition, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is the mainstay. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, lettuce. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. In terms of allelopathy, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes, sunflowers.
Corn is compacted with zucchini, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas and beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil.
Soy protects corn from turtle bugs
Bad neighbors for corn - table beet and celery
Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel onion fly, and onion - carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, parsley. Bordering onion beds with savory is favorable for onion growth, chamomile also works well for it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one per linear meter of the bed).
By placing individual plants onions and garlic next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.
Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree protects from gray rot.
Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, carrots.
Root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the garden - heal carrots.
Mint (melissa) - grows well in sorrel thickets.
Under sea buckthorn, strawberries or medicinal herbs are grown: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea.
Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage. If dill is sown between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and hence the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, parsley. Onion phytoncides kill spider mites on cucumbers.
The nut has no compatible crops;
Tomatoes will help spring garlic and dill. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To scare away butterflies, codling moths and protect against scab of pears and apple trees, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes secrete biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, and beans.
Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes;
Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkins and spinach;
Lettuce repels earthen flea from radish, radish, cabbage;
Radishes planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. This is facilitated, as well - nasturtium and watercress.
Beets get along well with lettuce, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;
Celery prefers neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onions, cucumber, cabbage
Currants are not damaged by bud mites if you plant onions between bushes and leave them in the ground for the winter.
Soy is friendly with all cultures.
Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against the nematode.
Beans, pumpkins and corn have long been planted together. Pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds, shading the soil with its foliage, corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, as they take moisture and nutrients from different horizons of the soil, different mineral elements are needed for their development, and they relate differently to lighting.
Spicy plants are sown between vegetables and trees - anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides - prevents the spread of pests and diseases.
If marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory are planted between the ridges of potatoes or onions, bunches of rye straw are plowed into the soil, they will protect these crops from nematode damage. Marigolds, mustard leaf, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil.
If you make a marigold border around the area on which the roses are planted, the defeat of roses by nematodes will become impossible.
Parsley will drive away the ants. Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.
Tansy cineraria, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, cabbage scoop caterpillars and whitefish, and apple trees from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and red tansy close to it. These plants are also known under the names of Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile.
Get along with the salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;
Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, sugar beets. Beans are useful for planting other crops, as they help get rid of the meadow moth.
Garlic protects asters, cloves, gladiolus, roses from powdery mildew, black leg, black spot and Fusarium, reduces the incidence of gray rot in cloves.
Apple tree - raspberry
Celery, dill, onion, carrot well planted side by side. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other.
Incompatible plants:
It is not recommended to plant beans (beans, peas, soybeans) with onions and garlic. Also, the neighborhood of marigolds and wormwood is bad for beans.
Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes;
Peas - incompatible with swede, beans, tomato;
Garoch and beans conflict with onions and garlic;
Combinations of peas with all kinds of onions, tomatoes, garlic, swede, beans are unfavorable;
Poor effect on peas - wormwood;
The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown;
Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Cabbage is not combined with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from closely growing grapes;
Tansy does not work well on kale.
Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkins (they can cause late blight disease in him);
Potatoes are oppressed by: cherry, apple tree, raspberry, mountain ash, sunflower;
Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkin;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;
Bad neighbors for corn are table beets and celery;
Currants and gooseberries cannot be planted side by side (gooseberry moth damage);
Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans, (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.
Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, this contributes to the reproduction of the strawberry-raspberry weevil;
Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshade - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases;
Cucumbers are suppressed by tomatoes;
Cucumbers feud with potatoes and aromatic herbs;
The peach depresses the cherry, pear and apple tree. They need to be planted away from each other.
Parsley - cucumber, head lettuce;
Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnip, peas, beets, parsley, apple tree, red cabbage; Tomatoes are oppressed by potatoes and turnips.
