Useful, hardy, unpretentious and easy to grow marigolds are irreplaceable. These summers have long moved from city flower beds and classic flower beds to original compositions, decorated the beds and potted gardens. Marigolds with their easily recognizable yellow-orange-brown colors and even more inimitable aromas are today able to pleasantly surprise with their diversity. Firstly, there are both tall and miniature plants among marigolds.

Our grandmothers, growing garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, were not particularly worried about mulching. But today this agricultural practice has become fundamental in achieving high quality berries and reducing crop losses. Someone might say that it is troublesome. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article, we invite you to get acquainted with the nine best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

Succulents are very diverse. Despite the fact that "babies" have always been considered more fashionable, to the assortment of succulents with which you can decorate modern interior, it is worth taking a closer look. After all, colors, sizes, patterning, degree of prickle, influence on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article, we will tell you about the five most fashionable succulents that amazingly transform modern interiors.

Mint was used by the Egyptians as early as 1.5 thousand years BC. It has a strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils with high volatility. Today mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article, we will consider the most interesting varieties mint, and also tell you about the features of growing this plant in the open field.

People began to grow crocuses as early as 500 years before the advent of our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the heralds of spring next year. Crocuses are one of the earliest primroses that bloom as soon as the snow melts. However, the timing of flowering may vary depending on the species and varieties. This article focuses on the earliest crocus varieties that bloom in late March and early April.

Cabbage soup from early young cabbage on beef broth - hearty, aromatic and easy to prepare. In this recipe, you will learn how to cook a delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup in this broth. Early cabbage cooks quickly, so it is put into the pot at the same time as the rest of the vegetables, unlike fall cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready-made cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. The present cabbage soup turns out to be tastier than the freshly cooked one.

Blueberry is an uncommon promising berry culture in the gardens. Blueberries are a source of biologically active substances and vitamins, have antiscorbutic, anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, restorative properties. Berries contain vitamins C, E, A, flavonoids, anthocyanins, trace elements - zinc, selenium, copper, manganese, as well as plant hormones - phytoestrogens. Blueberry berries taste like a mixture of grapes and blueberries.

Looking at the variety of tomato varieties, it is difficult not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. Even experienced gardeners he is sometimes embarrassing! However, it is not so difficult to understand the basics of selecting varieties "for yourself". The main thing is to delve into the peculiarities of culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest tomato groups to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been appreciated by those gardeners who do not have a lot of energy and time to care for the beds.

Once very popular under the name of room nettles, and then forgotten by everyone, Coleus today are one of the brightest garden and indoor plants... They are not in vain considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are looking primarily for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding to suit everyone, Coleus require constant monitoring. But if you take care of them, the bushes of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.

Salmon ridge baked in Provencal herbs - "supplier" tasty pieces fish pulp for light salad with fresh leaves of wild garlic. Champignons are lightly fried in olive oil and then poured over with apple cider vinegar. These mushrooms are tastier than regular pickled mushrooms and are better for baked fish. Ramson and fresh dill get along well in one salad, emphasizing the aroma of each other. The garlic pungency of wild garlic will saturate both the flesh of the salmon and the pieces of mushrooms.

Conifer tree or a bush on the site is always great, and a lot of conifers are even better. Emerald needles different shades decorates the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils secreted by plants not only flavor, but also make the air cleaner. As a rule, most zoned adults conifers, are considered to be very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require competent care and attention.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Shade picnics flowering trees have long been an integral part of the meeting of spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. The financial and academic year begins here on April 1, when the magnificent cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese pass under the sign of their flowering. But sakura grows well in cooler regions - certain species can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

It is very interesting for me to analyze how the tastes and addictions of people to certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and was an object of trade lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for over 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century BC. NS. about 6 varieties of quince were known, and even then methods of its reproduction and cultivation were described.

Delight your family and make themed Easter egg-shaped cottage cheese cookies! Your kids will be happy to take part in the process - they will sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration how the pieces of dough turn into real Easter eggs, and then they will eat them with the same enthusiasm with milk or tea. How to make such an original cookie for Easter, read in our step by step recipe!

There are not so many decorative leafy pets among tuberous crops. And Caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of interiors. Not everyone can decide to start a Caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all - to care. But still, rumors about the extraordinary capriciousness of the Caladiums never justify. Care and attention will avoid any difficulty in growing caladiums. And a plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.

After transplanting, the yucca should not be watered too much - the roots do not absorb a lot of water, the soil sour from waterlogging, and the yucca roots quickly rot. Yucca requires a cool, light wintering with moderate watering: with a lack of light in winter, combined with a high content temperature, yucca leaves fall off. Analyze, find mistakes in care and correct them. To restore plant immunity, spray the leaves with Epin solution.

My yucca palm is afflicted with some kind of disease or pests. At the base, the stems are covered with a white bloom with brown stripes and dots that, on close inspection, have villi. Some stems are brown and break easily. Young shoots quickly turn brown and die. What could it be?

Rot may appear on the yucca, affecting the roots and root parts of plants; rot pathogens are different kinds fungi. Not only on the base of the stem, but sometimes on other parts of the plant, a white cotton-like bloom appears (or brown spots, which are then covered with a gray bloom of mold). The cause of rot may be watering the plant. cold water, excessive soil moisture from excessive watering, mechanical damage to the roots, drafts in the room. It helps well against rot (if you already have a concentrate prepared in advance just in case in the refrigerator (it is prepared for 5 days); if there is no ready-made garlic concentrate, then for emergency the plant will have to resort to chemical method protection against rot). Remove rot and damaged parts of the plant before processing, then sprinkle the plant and water the soil with foundation (2 g per liter of water).

Also, clusters of pests - mealybugs - look like small cotton wool lumps (they can accumulate at the base of the stem, and also appear in the leaf rosette and on the leaves). When the lumps are loosened, you can find worms, along the edge of the body they have white waxy threads, longer on the tail.

In my yucca, shoots appear from the side of the trunk (in summer) and grow only 1 cm, and then dry up, why? At the same time, it very very well gives sheets from above, from the nodes in which there are already sheets.

The yucca is characterized by a thickened tree-like trunk with traces of petioles former leaves... On the trunk there is a large number of "dormant" buds, which can "wake up" under favorable conditions (thanks to this feature, yucca can be propagated not only with the help of shoots, but also with parts of the trunk). But the feeding system in the yucca trunk is arranged in such a way that it goes up to the crown of leaves, and while this crown exists, the "sleeping" buds (even if they "wake up") on the trunk do not give full-fledged shoots. Therefore, the yucca has a bare trunk with tufts of leaves at the top, which is typical of the species, and it looks like a palm tree in appearance. If you cut a tall yucca at any height ( better in spring), then, as a rule, two shoots appear and grow near the place of the cut.

My yucca is already 5 years old, until recently it grew with an even trunk, rather thick and even released three babies on the trunk last summer, which are growing quite actively, but the PROBLEM is that top part the trunk began to bend like a liana! It has become very thin, but it drives out the leaves quickly, the leaves are green, not sick. My yucca is located at the southwest window, there is plenty of light for it, I turn the tub from time to time in the hope that it will still stretch out, but nothing helps! Share, maybe there is some way besides cutting the top?

This problem is not uncommon during wintering of plants and is called "overgrowth". The overgrowth is caused by short, cloudy winter days and long warm nights, due to which the plants suffer from a lack of light, combined with an excess of heat and watering - they begin to develop long shoots. That is why for most plants (including yucca) it is recommended to lower the temperature of the content and reduce watering during the dormant period (read about this).
Now it is possible to carry out a cycle of spraying yucca with the "Epin" solution with a decrease in irrigation and from March start fertilizing the yucca, and as soon as the weather permits, take it out into fresh air (after preliminary hardening). Cutting off the top of the yucca as an extreme measure do not scare you - usually after spring cutting off the top, two new strong shoots grow out of dormant buds from the dormant buds near the cut.

I have a 2 year old Jukka. Two trunks - about 1.5 meters large. The leaves can be counted on the fingers, they have become light green and all hang down. Tell me how often to water. Where it should be in the room: in the light or in the shade. In which pot is it preferable to keep the yucca - I have it growing in a pot 30 cm deep and 30 cm in diameter.

Yucca is very light-requiring (young specimens require a lot sunlight). With a lack of light, the leaves and tops of the yucca lose their elasticity, become lighter. This process is aggravated by mistakes in care: excessive watering in winter (moderate watering is required), too warm wintering (coolness is desirable). The frequency of watering depends on, therefore, in each specific case, you need to focus on the needs of your plant; during the year, the frequency of watering varies according to need.
If possible, take the yucca out for the summer on a balcony or sunny terrace (gradually accustom you to the sun and fresh air) - in hot summer "in nature" yucca requires abundant watering, and in the apartment it is watered moderately (from excess moisture, yucca roots rot).
If you change annually upper layer land on fresh substrate and feed the yucca, then she does not need a large pot; as yuccas grow and "get heavier", they use larger and heavier pots (ceramic). Yucca is fed every 3 weeks from March to August.
To help the plant now, run a cycle of spraying "" or "Zircon".
If you are very depressed by the sad look of the yucca, you can root its tops using the method, and then cut the yucca at any height you need: next to the cut (sprinkle it with charcoal) dormant buds (usually two) will soon wake up and give young sprouts - the yucca will "rejuvenate ".

The yucca began to dry at first lower leaves now the young, just grown, turn yellow and dry. the bark on the trunk seems to "flake off" what is it?

Yellow spots on yucca leaves can appear from the invasion of spider mites (they can be seen in a magnifying glass - length 0.2 mm), in this case, the yucca is treated with neoron (1 ml per liter of water).
Brown spots with a yellow halo appear on yucca with a fungal disease phyllostictosis, here spraying with either copper oxychloride (4 g per liter of water) will be effective.
Also, yucca leaves turn yellow from root rot, which arises from excessive watering - then the plant is needed urgently, but if during transplantation it turns out that all the yucca roots have already rotted, you will have to cut and root the top and segments of semi-lignified parts of the trunk.

Yucca has been outdoors all summer. After I brought it home, the lower leaves began to turn yellow. What to do?

After a change in the place and conditions of keeping, the plants experience stress; Spraying with "Epin" helps to support their immunity and accelerate adaptation to new conditions.
The lower leaves of the yucca begin to turn yellow and fall off in autumn and winter when the temperature in the apartment is too high and there is a lack of light.
Provide the yucca with a light cool content in the fall (preferably 8-12 degrees in winter) and moderate watering (when the soil is waterlogged, the yucca roots quickly rot).
The gradual fall of the lower leaves in an adult yucca is typical of the species - this is how the trunk is formed.

Ziborova E.Yu.

The yucca was planted with a scion (such as the upper "palm" of the yucca) and the scion stood in the water before planting in the ground. Now, between the lower leaves, you can see that the trunk has begun to stiffen. Tell me, should these lower leaves be cut off or will they fall off by themselves? They are still green, but no longer elastic and drooping.
And I’ll ask you more right away. I saw yuccas for sale on a thick short trunk (as I understand, adult plant sawed) small processes. How then, when my colossus becomes, to do the same? Is this trunk growing too? Will the lower leaves fall off on the new processes too? And why are such yuccas always sold in two trunks in a pot (at least I have not seen one at a time)?

The trunk should become stiff, the lower leaves turn yellow, become dry and I could never wait for them to fall off by themselves, so I cut them off. If you cut off the still soft yellowing leaf, new yellowing leaves will appear immediately, so the leaf needs to ripen to yellowness and dryness.
In order to achieve such an effect in the yucca that is sold in the store, you will need to cut off on a strengthened and dark trunk - the top, which can then be planted, and several new bunches with leaves will soon appear on the chopped off trunk. The trunk then does not grow, but bunches with leaves grow into growth. I want to warn you that yuccas grow very slowly and it is rather difficult to achieve such trunks as in the store.
Why yuccas are sold by two in pots - I don't know, but I suppose that only for decorative reasons. They are referred to as false palms and probably thus. trying to recreate the image of beautifully growing palm trees. But this is my IMHO.

Thanks! And cut off the top of the head only the palm itself or with a part of the trunk, which is then thrown away or rooted? The barrel will be long, and in stores they sell it on a very short one. Again, in the store, I noticed that the cut place was smeared with something similar to plasticine. What is it and is it necessary? If I only cut off the top of the head and leave a small piece of the trunk with roots in the pot, can the remaining trunk also be rooted? The trunk with roots remaining in the ground has a large developed root system, but are sold in tiny pots. What should be done with the roots? Trim? Does this procedure have any special features?

Are you going to cut it off already? It seems a bit early to me. But I will explain to you. The top can be cut off with part of the trunk and then rooted. Yuccas are sold in stores where the trunk may have been split several times. Any cut off of the trunk can be planted. The cut is covered with a special putty sold in gardening stores. I do not know what funds are available in Russia. When I cut off a part of my yucca and I had nothing on hand, I simply filled the cut with wax. Consider that you have bandaged an open wound by a tree.
When I see that my yucca is running out of space, I simply transfer it to a large pot.
The pots in the store are not very tiny and the plants are specially prepared before being sold. It is not necessary to transplant the plants immediately after the store. Let it get better in the new regime, and then you can think not so much about transplanting it as about transshipment of it.
Cutting off the trunk of an adult yucca is not easy, rather it is cut down, because this is a real tree.

How to increase the stress tolerance of a plant? What to do if problems cannot be avoided? How to recognize an impending disaster? Let's talk about everything in order.

A healthy yucca is distinguished by a strong trunk, bright and juicy foliage, excellent turgor of the shoots

The evergreen indoor yucca is endemic to Central America, a region with a hot and arid climate. This could not but affect the formation of the annual cycle of her life, one of the stages of which is a period of pronounced rest.

When the plant goes into "sleep", and this occurs around the end of October and lasts until February-March, it drastically reduces moisture consumption and nutrients, stops growing. Accordingly, the mode of watering and feeding needs to be adjusted. And if you don't? With a high degree of probability, the disease will not keep itself waiting long, and the yucca will already need not only preventive measures, but also their treatment.

The health of a yucca is determined by a combination of factors such as light, humidity, temperature. What should they be during the rest period?

1. There should be a lot of light. If in summer yucca is recommended by scattered Sun rays and the content at some distance from the window, then by winter the pots can be rearranged closer to the light source, for example, as in the photo below.
2. The optimum winter temperature is 10-14 ° C. It is undesirable for it to fall below 8 ° C or rise above 25 ° C.
3. Watering is reduced to 1-2 times a month.
4. Top dressing is suspended until spring.

It happens that there is no way to lower the temperature to optimal parameters... In this case, the earthen lump will dry out faster, and you can water the plant a little more often.

But the greatest harm to yucca is caused by a combination of low temperature (for example, the pot is on a cold windowsill) and excessive watering. In wet cold soil, mold and pathogenic bacteria will settle 100%. And further. Yucca is very afraid of drafts.

By the way, if the "palm" is transplanted during this period, it will certainly get sick. Dormant roots will not be able to absorb the increased volume of soil and moisture, and this is a direct path to fungal infections.

Common diseases of yucca

Most diseases of yucca are associated with improper maintenance - waterlogging of the soil, depletion potting soil, and, consequently, a weakening of the plant's immunity. But it happens that the infection penetrates from the outside, for example, with a substrate or other indoor flowers... What are the most common problems with a palm tree?

Fungal infections affecting the crown

Several groups of fungi manifest themselves by infecting yucca leaves. All kinds of spots, yellowing, sores appear on them. If you do not catch yourself in time, the spots increase, merge, in the end, the leaves dry up, and the plant itself wilts. We will tell you how to revive it at home using the example of several diseases.

Cercospora is an infection caused by a causative agent of fungal etiology (Cercospora)

A favorable environment for this fungus is high humidity. It occurs due to constant overflows, as well as when the florist is fond of spraying plants. Rounded spots of light brown color with a dark border appear on the leaves, which gradually grow, affecting new areas.

If you notice the disease, first of all, remove the affected leaves as much as possible.

Then treat with a systemic fungicide, for a start - "light" (Fundazol, Topaz). Number of sprays - 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days.

And, of course, you need to eliminate the factors that led to the disease of the yucca - dry the earthen ball, reduce watering, stop spraying the crown.

Brown spot

The causes of the lesion are similar to the previous disease, but are caused by a fungus of a different group. It primarily affects the lower (old) leaves. First, discolored areas appear, then they turn yellow, and after 3-4 months they turn brown. At this time, you can see fungal spores located in the center of the spots.

Control measures are the same as for cercospora. If the disease has gone far, a stronger fungicide can be used, for example, Ridomil Gold.

Marginal leaf necrosis

This fungal infection is diagnosed by gray-brown spots that affect the edges of the leaf plate. Sometimes the spot can be "weeping", pronounced concentric shape.

If the speck is small, the sheet can not be removed, but only the diseased area can be cut out, capturing part of the healthy tissue. To disinfect the wound, treat the edges with crushed activated carbon.

After the "operation", spray the yucca with the fungicide solution.

Fusarium rot

This is a dangerous fungal infection leading to leaf rot. They are struck, as a rule, at the base and completely rot away.

To combat fusarium fungus, systemic fungicides are used, such as Fundazol, Previkur, Profit. If the damage is strong, it is better to discard the plant along with the pot.

In order for the fight against diseases and pests to be effective, the crown, trunk and, necessarily, the soil are sprayed. Sometimes it is recommended to remove the top layer of the substrate infected with fungal spores or insect larvae. In case of fungal diseases, for safety reasons, the plant is not only sprayed, but also watered several times with a weak solution of the fungicide.

In the photo - a yucca affected by cercospora

Stem rot

If the loss of leaves is a temporary problem, after treatment new ones will grow, then with the trunk it is not so simple. This is the main artery through which food flows, if it dies, the yucca will also die.

The rotten trunk becomes soft, brown sores appear on it, from which a watery substance oozes.

Only surgical intervention can save the plant. The softened part of the trunk is unambiguously cut out to healthy tissue. Further actions depend on what is left of the palm tree.

If this is the tip, the cut is dried, treated with a growth stimulant (according to the instructions) and try to root. This can be done in water or in a light peat and perlite substrate.

A living root with a part of the trunk? Perfectly! Treat the cut with activated or crushed charcoal, place in a bright, warm place. Drizzle with a solution of the fungicide Carbendazim to kill the fungus in the soil. If everything goes well, the yucca will expel the shoots from the axillary buds.

You can try to germinate healthy fragments of the yucca trunk in the substrate by burying them flat.

Root problems

Often on the forums you can "hear" the cry of the soul: "The yucca is dying, what to do?" And outwardly everything looks normal - no obvious diseases, no pests, and the plant is withering away. In situations like this, the problem is most likely in the roots.

Root rot is a nightmare for succulents, which include yucca. You can only see it when transplanting a plant. Therefore, if you see that the plant decays without apparent reasons, try to gently remove it from the pot and examine the roots. If they are dark and soft, it is root rot. Whether it will be possible to reanimate the yucca depends on the degree of damage.

• If the roots have rotted completely, all that remains is to discard the flower.
• Less than a third of diseased roots? Cut off anything suspicious, transplant the yucca into a new container with fresh substrate. After planting, pour the fungicide solution and send the "sick" person to a warm and bright place.
• If more than half of the roots are damaged, but not all, you can try to save the plant. They need to be rinsed under the tap, and then cut off all soft and darkened pieces. Next, we plant, pour with a solution of fungicide, set in the light. We are waiting for the result.

A reanimated plant should not be watered until you are sure that it has taken root and has begun to grow.

Healthy roots - light and firm

Yucca does not bloom

Some growers are worried about the question of why yucca does not bloom, they even tend to attribute the problem to the disease or to the wrong content. This is not entirely true.

The fact is that yucca almost never blooms in "captivity". This is due to the fact that the conditions of its maintenance are far from the natural environment, the dormant period is relative, which means that the flower buds do not have time to ripen. And in natural conditions only adult "palms" are blooming. Therefore, if the yucca is more than 10 years old and in winter you provide her peace, there is a chance that she will throw out inflorescences with beautiful white bells, albeit small.

If you want to see the yucca bloom, grow garden varieties plants

You need to know the enemy by sight

In addition to diseases, some insects are among the enemies of yucca. Pests rarely attack a plant with a strong immune system, but diseased, depleted specimens often become their target. Consider who can live on your pet.

Mealybug

Most often it affects the palm tree in the off-season, when the plant is under stress from a change in temperature. Outwardly, the mealybug looks like small cotton rolls, if you crush a fluffy ball, bloody discharge appears. Its harm is enormous, since it sucks juice from leaves and branches, and multiplies very quickly.

If you notice a worm infestation, thoroughly wipe the yucca leaves with a sponge soaked in warm soapy water, removing all visible traces of the pest's activity. After that, treat the plant with an insecticide (Aktara, Calypso, Fitoverm, etc.). The procedure must be repeated 3-4 times with an interval of 7-10 days.

Shield

Another dangerous enemy of the yucca is the shield. A tiny insect, similar to a small turtle, is generally mistaken by some for a growth on the leaves, since it is motionless. Deadly attached to a leaf blade or cuttings, the scabbard sucks out the juices of the plant. The first sign of a dangerous neighborhood is sticky, shiny discharge.

Not only the scale insect itself harms the flower, but also the sticky substance. It clogs the pores of living tissue, creating favorable conditions for fungal infections.

The "shell" of the scale insect is so dense that it is difficult to kill it even with chemistry. First you need to remove adults mechanically- with a swab moistened with concentrated soapy water or vodka, clean the leaves and stems from brown "growths". Remove the topsoil.

Then treat the plant with an insecticide. As with mealybug, repeat the procedure at least 3 times.

Spider mite

Spider mites can settle on weakened plants. First, light "grains" appear on the reverse side of the sheet, and then the thinnest cobweb.

In addition to diseases and pests, there may be other reasons why yucca leaves turn yellow -.

To increase the plant's resistance to stress, do not neglect top dressing in the summer - a balanced diet will help form a strong immune system. In winter, give the yucca a rest and gain strength before the new season. Proper care is the best disease prevention.

A video about yucca care will help you avoid many problems.

Yucca belongs to the Agave family, although this plant is very similar to the palm tree. This family includes over 45 species, but no more than 7 species are cultivated as indoor ornamental, and a few more can be found in gardens and parks. Yucca is popular with flower growers due to its graceful trunk, the top of which is decorated with a shock of beautiful long emerald leaves.

These evergreens are native to North American countries. At home, yucca is cultivated not only as ornamental plants... serves as a source of fiber from which clothes, bags, ropes and baskets are made. And from the roots of culture, local residents have adapted to extract natural dyes red, and parts of the plant are often used by traditional healers. Yucca leaves contain starch, so they are often used in cooking.

Yucca tree trunks, with one or more growth points, can be crowned with drooping or erect narrow long leaves. With the help of competent pruning, the trunks can be given bizarre shapes and the necessary branching. Yucca can bloom and bear fruit only in natural conditions where they are pollinated by special butterflies. Flowering decorative varieties can be expected extremely rarely and only from hybrids.

While creating favorable conditions and tireless care, homemade yucca can only bloom after 6-7 years. This event takes place in the summer. But experienced gardeners have learned to stimulate the formation of flower buds in adult plants, creating cool conditions in winter period... The temperature at this time should not exceed 14 degrees. Yucca flowers are similar to small white bells and gather in panicle inflorescences.

Ornamental plant species do not grow rapidly, but some specimens can reach four meters in height.

All decorative yucca species have common characteristics that distinguish them from other plants:

• the culture grows like a shrub or tree with a powerful trunk
• emerald leaves of a dense and tough texture, usually monochromatic, but sometimes diluted with white veins
• leaves, the length of which reaches a meter, are collected in rosettes
• panicle inflorescences are formed in the middle of leaf rosettes

After flowering, fruits are formed on the plant - these are berries, which eventually turn into seed pods... V indoor floriculture most often you can find two types of yucca:

1. Elephant, which is often called a false palm. It is a shrub plant with long, pointed leaves. The elephant yucca gets its name from its trunk, which thickens significantly with age and resembles an elephant's leg. The homeland of this species is arid regions with a small number of pests, therefore the plant is characterized as unpretentious.
2. Aloe leaf - with leathery, tough leaves that resemble aloe leaves. Where did its name come from. To grow given view, you need to make some effort. The crown of an adult plant is spherical and crowned with a thick cylindrical trunk.

All types of yucca have a positive attitude to fresh air, therefore, in the warm season, it is preferable to place the plants outdoors. A place should be chosen with abundant, but diffused sunlight.

1. Lighting. Yucca needs an abundance of light, but direct sunlight has a detrimental effect on plants. Miniature false palms should be placed in western or eastern rooms near windows. If necessary, the duration of daylight hours is increased by means of artificial lighting.
2. Temperature regime... V summer time year, the temperature of the content of plants should not exceed 25 degrees. If the yucca overheats, then it is placed in a cool place and sprayed, and after a while it is returned to its place. In winter, yucca is comfortable at a temperature of 11-13 degrees.
3. Irrigation. Watering decorative palms should be given the size of the plant itself and the pot, as well as the temperature and humidity of the air. In summer, abundant watering is needed. The soil should not dry out more than 2 cm. On average, irrigation is carried out once a week with settled water at room temperature. In the autumn-winter time, watering is reduced.
4. Spraying. Spraying is carried out in order to prevent spider mites, but excessive waterlogging can lead to deterioration decorative look plants. Therefore, this procedure should be carried out carefully and in small quantities.
5. Priming. A ready-made soil mixture for dracaena and palm is suitable for yucca, which contains trace elements necessary for the normal development of plants. Also, the soil can be prepared at home by mixing two parts of sod, leafy earth and sand and one part of humus. Such a composition is optimal for young plants, and for adult specimens, a mixture of sod and leafy soil, to which sand is mixed in a ratio of 3: 2: 1, is suitable.
6. Top dressing. You need to feed the yucca during intensive growth once a month. Suitable fertilizers and. Solutions are used for spraying inner sides leaves.
7. Crown formation. In order for the trunk of the yucca to start branching, it must be cut off. The procedure is applicable for young and healthy plants, no higher than 35 cm. In the second half of spring, two-thirds of the trunk is cut off the yucca. But it is necessary to ensure that leaves or buds remain on the main stem. Sections should be decontaminated to prevent infection. Over time, new shoots will grow from the remaining trunk, and a new plant will grow from the cut off top.

The main problem when growing homemade yucca is the loss of decorativeness. The leaves of the plant may turn yellow and dry, but this is not always a consequence of the disease. If only the lower leaves dry out and die off, then this is a natural process of development. And when there is intense leaf fall, then you should find the cause of the problem and eliminate it.

Miniature palm can lose leaves due to not proper care or pest damage:

• The leaves of the culture turn yellow and dry out due to an excess of light, low humidity or improper watering.
• Due to excessive illumination, dry spots form on the leaf plates, so the plant should be protected from the active sun.
• When waterlogged, the leaves become covered with brown spots.
• If the edges and tips of the leaves dry out, then the room is not enough wet air, there are drafts or the palm tree does not have enough watering.
• With hypothermia, the leaves of the flower begin to curl and their edges darken.
• Lack of lighting leads to yellowing of the leaves, and the flower shoots are stretched out.
• Formidable enemies false palm are scale insects, spider mites, aphids and thrips.

The first step is to transplant the affected specimen with a complete replacement of the soil mixture. The roots are cleaned from the ground and damaged areas are removed. After that, disinfection is carried out with a manganese solution. After drying the roots, you can plant them in new soil. Feeding the false palm should be postponed for a while.

How and how to treat a plant:

• If the plant has suffered from fungal diseases, then the damaged areas need to be removed and treated. It is not worth watering the plant during treatment. These measures are effective if the disease is at an early stage. In case of extensive infestation, the flower is thrown away, and its pot is treated with high quality.
• When attacked by spider mites, palm leaves are sprayed and washed with tobacco, onion or garlic infusion. The procedures should be carried out systematically, until the complete destruction of the pests. If such measures do not give the expected result, then you need to resort to the help of fungicidal preparations. Severely damaged parts of plants must be removed, and if a large number pests culture will need a transplant.
• When attacking scale insects, a strong soap solution is used. Each leaf must be properly wiped with a cotton pad soaked in the solution to remove insects. After spraying is carried out with alcoholic tobacco solution or insecticidal preparations are used.

With proper care, yucca can delight its owners for many years. Bribing with its unpretentiousness and decorativeness, mini palm is gaining more and more popularity in indoor floriculture. In addition to decorative qualities, the plant also has a number of useful properties, one of which is indoor air purification.

More information can be found in the video: