Between plants located nearby, there is a certain interaction. Some of them are true friends who are ready to help each other in every possible way, the second are neutral, and the third tend to be at enmity with others. In order to use this influence to get a decent harvest and avoid annoying mistakes when planning a garden, it is necessary to understand which crops can be planted side by side, and which neighborhood of vegetables in the beds is highly undesirable.

What is mixed landings

If the garden area is small, but you want to get a variety of fruits, but more, circumstances suggest a way out: compacted crops or mixed plantings. This is a method of organic farming, when several different crops are cultivated in the garden at the same time: vegetables, herbs, berries, flowers, planted, taking into account the compatibility of plants, mixed or according to a certain pattern.

Mixed landings: benefits and beauty

The question is natural: is the topic of combined plantings relevant for owners of spacious plots? Each gardener, intending to populate his site with “green friends” in the spring, wants to get the most out of each garden. At the same time, any experienced vegetable grower knows that fertile land, high-quality seeds, healthy seedlings, the use of effective fertilizers, and competent care for plantings in the neighborhood are necessary to obtain a significant harvest.

However, few people take into account another significant circumstance: allelopathy. Don't let this scientific name of the phenomenon of biochemical influence of some cultures on others or their mutual influence scare you. Allelopathy is capable of providing mutually beneficial conditions for the coexistence of vegetables adjacent to the garden during joint plantings, but it can also serve as a factor that suppresses the development of individual species.

Good Neighborhood

The essence of the effect is that all parts of plants release into the environment (air, soil) biologically active substances - phytoncides, antibiotics and others. These compounds, depending on the species, can either be absorbed and act beneficially on crops located in the neighborhood, or oppress fellows in the garden. The successful selection of green "cohabitants" allows you to harvest more from the garden, grow healthy, beautiful fruits with improved taste.

In addition to the positive manifestation of allelopathy, there are still many profits that encourage the organization of joint plantings on the site, even if there is enough space for separate cultivation.

isolated neighborhood

Benefits of mixed landings

It is worth noting that the combination of vegetables in the garden is not the latest trend in garden agricultural technology. Since ancient times, the American Indians have known a successful trio: peas, corn, pumpkin. The classic community of plants has successfully migrated to our days and is successfully used by many vegetable growers: peas enrich the soil with nitrogen, corn serves as its support, pumpkin, covering the ground, fights weeds.

Classic trio

The organization of joint plantings is a more promising and exciting activity than the cultivation of monocultures on separate sites. However, the approach to planning "communal" beds must be responsible. It is not enough to know what vegetables and other crops can be planted nearby, you need to be prepared for observations, analysis of the results of the neighborhood. But people who have decided to experiment and have already harvested more than one crop from combined plantings note the many advantages of this approach:

• The available land area is used more rationally, the crop is removed from it more than when planting with a monoculture.
• Vegetables in the garden have a good appearance, are healthy or get sick less.
• The need for crops for watering is reduced.
• There is no need for frequent thorough weeding of beds.
• Reduced time for preparatory garden work.
• It becomes possible to reduce or eliminate the use of mineral fertilizers, due to nitrogen fixation by legumes.
• One-sided depletion of the soil, its "fatigue" is prevented, the need for crop rotation gradually disappears.
• Avoiding pesticides is becoming a reality, as many plants attract beneficial insects and pest-killing birds. There are also flowers and herbs that repel harmful insects and rodents.
• The harvest is carried out throughout the season, if other crops are sown on the area vacated after the early ones.
• It is possible to create a kind of microclimate in the garden, using tall, stable plants as wings to protect gentle neighbors from winds and direct sun.

Cabbage, marigolds, calendula - a wonderful neighborhood

Rules for the formation of combined landings

The experience and observations accumulated by gardeners show that, in addition to the listed advantages, mixed cultivation even affects the taste of vegetables. In particular, such herbs as basil, celery, monarda, parsley, improve the taste of tomatoes. Bush beans can make radishes more savory. A cucumber planted next to a sunflower will please you with especially sweet, crisp greens.

These tomatoes are especially delicious.

Choosing the right combination of vegetables among themselves in the garden and realizing all the advantages of growing plants in a mixed type is possible only if certain rules are observed. When planning the organization of a "communal" garden bed, it is necessary:

1. Consider the climate in the region.
2. To study the specific features of your own site and focus on them: a garden in the sun or in shading, is it protected from the winds, what are the agrotechnical characteristics of the soil, is there a possibility of watering.
3. Orient the beds in such a way that tall specimens do not shade light-loving neighbors and, on the contrary, shade those for whom the hot sun is harmful.
4. Combine plants with different growing seasons. Early vegetables, greens (onions, radishes, Chinese cabbage, lettuce) in mixed plantings should be planted with crops with a long ripening period (cucumbers, zucchini, eggplant, beets, tomatoes).
5. Decide whether there will be enough food area for all the "residents" of the garden. It depends on the development of their root system. Plants with deep, powerful roots should be placed next to crops with a shallow root system.

Scheme of a small garden bed with combined plantings

As a rule, three crops are grown in a mixed bed: the previous early crop, the main one, and the partner plant. With sufficient knowledge and experience in gardening, you will draw up schemes for combined plantings on your own. If you do not rely on your experience, use ready-made landing patterns, special tables from the examples below.

Compatibility table

Compatibility of crops on the same bed

Now we should dwell on the compatibility of some common crops with other plants in the common garden and figure out which neighborhood is beneficial for them, which is acceptable, and which is harmful.

Bow and the best neighbors for him

It is difficult to imagine the diet of a Russian without onions, every summer resident hopes to prepare it for the whole winter. It is interesting to find out how he behaves in a mixed garden, whether he makes the neighbors “cry”.

It is reliably known that onions are not only useful for humans - they are an excellent companion for many other crops, diligently protecting them from diseases and pests. Thanks to this, plants placed nearby develop well and give an increased yield. But the gardener, aimed at getting a solid harvest, is also interested in what kind of neighborhood is favorable for the onion itself.

We can immediately say that this vegetable will be comfortable in the company of salads, radishes, tomatoes, parsley, beets, cucumbers, strawberries. And from grapes, legumes, sage, you should keep it away.

Comfortable neighborhood

Many vegetable growers who master the technique of joint cultivation of vegetables are concerned with the question of whether it is possible to plant onions and garlic on the same bed, because they are so similar: they have the same sowing dates, requirements for soil, lighting, and agricultural technology. However, these cultures are from a common family - their similarity is also manifested in the presence of common pests, diseases, from which they cannot protect each other.

In onions and garlic, the root system is located superficially, which means that they can compete in terms of nutrition and moisture. There are more minuses in such a neighborhood than pluses, and it is not worth planting them mixed in a small area. In extreme cases, you can divide the "living space" between them in half. But the best option would be to plant onions and carrots on the same bed - this combination has become a classic in the practice of co-growing vegetables.

Carrots and onions are friendly

Carrots and the ideal growing environment

Carrots and onions are the perfect duo. They do not just coexist peacefully - their position is active in relation to each other's pests. Carrots will safely scare off the onion fly, and the carrot fly will not even approach the zone where the onion defender stands side by side with the tasty root crop. The simplest example of such a bed: the central row of onions along its length and two rows of carrots on the sides.

classic neighborhood

However, it is worth noting that these crops have different requirements for watering. When the bulbs are full and begin to ripen, the onion does not need water, it is even harmful to it, and at this time only give carrots a drink. If the climate in the region is such that vegetables cannot be grown without watering, one has to either leave onions only as a protector, or say goodbye to part of the carrot crop, trying to protect ripening onions from rot.

The way out of the described situation can be the cultivation together with carrots of perennial onions or onions for greens. Or you should find out what else can be planted on the same bed with carrots, and implement the idea. Having studied the above plate, you can make sure that carrots are good next to radishes, peas, lettuce, tomatoes, spinach, garlic. Its proximity to parsley, celery, dill is undesirable.

Carrots are comfortable next to radishes

By the way, many are surprised that the openwork sprigs of self-sowing dill should be removed from the garden with carrots. But everything is natural: these plants from the same family compete for water and food. In addition, both of them (like all umbrella ones) are attractive to the carrot fly. Therefore, leaving pretty dill bushes among carrot crops is undesirable. Moreover, it is unacceptable to deliberately plant carrots and dill in the same garden - this is an unfortunate neighborhood.

The result of an unsuccessful neighborhood

Garlic and other plants in the same garden

Garlic is a wonderful plant that endows the space around it with healthy phytoncides. It is a natural fungicide that is excellent in the fight against fungal infections. This quality is to the liking of most of garlic's neighbors: in its environment, potatoes can cope with late blight, carrots and psyllids will not be damaged by carrots, and strawberries will not be attacked by harmful insects.

Garlic is a natural healer

So you can plant a lot of vegetables, herbs, flowers next to garlic in the garden. He likes carrots, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, and celery especially favors him. And for the garlic itself, they are the best neighbors. Many flowers feel great in the presence of a fragrant vegetable. Of those with whom garlic is especially friendly in the garden, one can name roses and bulbous flowers: tulips, gladioli, daffodils.

Good garlic partners

Despite its beneficial properties, the neighborhood of garlic is contraindicated for peas, lentils, beans, peanuts. They can not be placed not only on the same bed, but also in the vicinity of a site planted with garlic, which has such an adverse effect on legumes that they cease to develop normally and almost do not bear fruit. It is unacceptable to plant cabbage and perennial onions next to it. But for raspberries, strawberries, garlic will be the best companion.

For tulips, the neighborhood with garlic is beneficial

Strawberries and Suitable Neighbors

When setting up a strawberry plantation, summer residents often think about what can be planted next to strawberries in the same garden to protect the berry from pests and diseases. Inquisitive farmers have found a solution: a healer from nature, garlic, does an excellent job with this task. He is afraid of such pests:

• ants;
• strawberry weevil;
• nematodes;
• wireworm;
• spider mite.

Garden strawberry (in everyday life - strawberry)

The glorious defender of the sweet berry is planted in a row between the rows of strawberry beds and between holes with berry bushes. Strawberries (garden strawberries) reciprocate garlic: the heads of garlic grow even larger and stronger than when planting it on a separate “living space”. Everyone who practices growing strawberries and garlic in the same garden is sure that their neighborhood is very beneficial.

bittersweet couple

Beans, onions, eggplants, radishes, spinach, and parsley can also be considered good companions for fragrant berries. The latter drives away slugs from ripening berries. But there are no cultures with which strawberries would have poor compatibility: apparently, they are very friendly to their neighbors and are loved by all of them.

The best neighbor of strawberries is beans

It is known that different varieties of individual crops (for example, potatoes) can be at enmity, not only when planted side by side, but even during storage of the crop. Therefore, disputes are not uncommon between garden owners on the topic: is it possible to plant different varieties of strawberries on the same bed or this will lead to civil strife or cross-pollination. There is no reason to be afraid of one or the other: the bushes of garden strawberries simply do not know how to quarrel.

Cross-pollination occurs, but it will affect the type and quality of berries only if strawberries are propagated by seeds. With vegetative propagation, the variety will not be disturbed - the main thing is not to confuse which mother plant the rosette is separated from. For these reasons, it is worth planting varieties of garden strawberries, if on the same bed, then in separate groups.

Parsley keeps slugs away

Cucumbers in joint plantings

Pimply crunchy greens - what could be better at the beginning of summer? And if you are already set on the joint cultivation of vegetables, you should know which cucumber neighbor in the garden will be their faithful assistant, and which one will oppress. Cucumbers are picky, a good neighborhood is not a problem for them - in this regard, they are compatible with most vegetable crops. It is easier to list those plants with which cucumbers do not develop relationships.

Corn curtains protect from the wind

The list is short:

• potato,
• radish (here the opinions of experts differ),
• tomatoes (debatable)
• spices.

Dill is a wonderful partner of cucumbers

Much more than the neighborhood, the development of this vegetable is influenced by the microclimate and soil. Therefore, when deciding what to plant in a garden with cucumbers, more attention should be paid to the ability of companions to protect growing vines from the aggressive effects of the environment. For example, backstage of corn will be an excellent protection for cucumber lashes from the winds, and beans will supply them with nitrogen. Among herbs, there is one exception: dill goes well with cucumbers.

Another example of a pleasant neighborhood

Beets on the common garden

When deciding what to plant beets with, you should be guided by scientific data and be guided by common sense. The German scientist Hubmann, who studied plant compatibility for many years, concluded that plants such as beets, potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans, spinach can coexist perfectly, stimulating each other. Good neighbors for beets, in his opinion, are also onions, kohlrabi, lettuce, garlic, strawberries.

Commonwealth of root crops

As for the incompatibility of beets with other vegetables, there is no consensus. Some vegetable growers, in contrast to Hubmann, argue that this root crop does not grow well next to potatoes. However, many gardeners successfully grow it along the edge of potato ridges. Neither scientists nor practitioners have decided on the usefulness or harmfulness of the neighborhood of beets with corn, chard, chives.

There is a version that the substances secreted by beet roots have antibiotic properties and have a healing effect on neighboring plants. Therefore, growing, for example, beets and carrots on the same bed will have a positive effect on both crops.

Joint cultivation of beets, onions, carrots

True, care will need to be taken to maintain a sufficient interval between rows, bearing in mind that powerful beet foliage can greatly obscure companions. A good option for mixed growing vegetables would be a bed with a row of onions planted in the center, a row of beets and a row of carrots along the edges.

Pumpkin in the neighborhood with other cultures

Pumpkin does not experience special preferences and hostility towards vegetables growing nearby. However, the proximity to the previously mentioned corn, peas, as well as other legumes, radishes, and nasturtium can be called quite successful for her. Sometimes gardeners, trying to maximize the area of ​​​​the compost heap, plant zucchini on it together with pumpkin.

Friendship is friendship, but the beds are better apart

But pumpkins and zucchini cannot be good neighbors in the same garden. As a result of cross-pollination, fruits of a shape and color unusual for both vegetables grow. Hybrids on zucchini grow round, and oblong on pumpkins. Their taste is also affected. This is a vivid example of the unsuccessful application of the mixed growing system, and it is not worth venturing into such an experiment.

Such a company is better for a pumpkin

Tomatoes surrounded by neighbors

Some consider tomatoes to be as individualistic as pumpkins. But, if we turn to the experience of Swiss, German and domestic gardeners, it is easy to see that the cultivation of tomatoes in the vicinity of other crops is quite realistic. They go well with radishes, lettuce, carrots, celery, parsley, beets, garlic. There is no doubt that these vegetables and herbs can be planted on the same bed with tomatoes.

Their mutual influence can be different. For example, the commonwealth of garlic and tomatoes is favorable for the latter: garlic protects them from spider mites and reduces the risk of late blight. And the best companion of tomatoes is basil, which not only promotes the growth of the vegetable, but also improves its taste. By the way, other aromatic herbs have the same property: borage, lemon balm, marigolds, mint.

The effect of nettle growing nearby is interesting: it increases the shelf life of tomatoes and improves the quality of tomato juice. As a rule, those who grow tomatoes and carrots on the same bed, the line of which is placed along a row of tomatoes, are satisfied with the results. But tomatoes have almost no enemies - only fennel can be attributed to obvious antagonists, which is such in relation to almost all vegetables.

Neighborhood eggplant pepper in joy

Bell peppers in the center of a mixed vegetable garden

It is impossible not to mention the possible neighbors of bell pepper in the garden. He has a good relationship with basil, eggplant, dill, spinach, thyme. Marigolds, coriander, onions, with which he gets along well, can act as defenders of pepper from aphids. And a plant like okra can be planted next to fragile pepper bushes to shelter them from the wind.

The company of tomatoes, peas, cabbage, beets, beans, carrots is contraindicated for pepper. It is highly undesirable and the neighborhood of a sibling - hot pepper. It will not interfere with the development and fruiting of the "Bulgarian", but the result of cross-pollination will be the loss of the crop, since sweet peppers can no longer be called such. You can decide what to plant next to pepper on the same bed, focusing on the lists of successful and unsuccessful neighbors.

Cabbage as the best neighbor for vegetables and herbs

There are many types of cabbage, they grow and bear fruit in different ways. But they have common problems with pests and diseases, so the problem with which cabbage can be planted in one garden is solved for all varieties in almost the same way. An excellent partner for cabbage is celery, gaining additional flavor and being stimulated to grow by the influence of cabbage. In turn, he drives away white butterflies and cruciferous fleas from the beds.

Neighborhood is useful for cabbage:

• different types of onions
• lettuce,
• potato,
• aromatic herbs (sage, dill, chamomile),
• beans,
• garlic.

Pleasant Cabbage Neighbors

Cabbage and tomatoes do not get along on the same bed. Strawberries are also not in favor with the "garden lady". But cabbage cabbage is still different. By placing cauliflower next to a white-headed sister, you can miss the calculation for the yield of colored heads: their tying in the vicinity of a white-headed beauty is significantly reduced.

Potatoes and useful crops for it

Growing "second bread" in a mixed culture is beneficial: it gets sick less, does not need crop rotation so much. Beans and spinach are good as potato neighbors in the garden. A remarkable result can be obtained if you plant bush beans in the aisles of potatoes - it repels the malicious pest, the Colorado potato beetle, enriches the soil with nitrogen. The malevolent beetle is also repelled by tansy, marigolds, coriander, and nasturtium.

Potatoes and beans in the garden

Potatoes also feel good in the company of radishes, corn, varieties of cabbage, salads. Favorable for him is the company of horseradish planted in the corners of a potato field, but the proximity of sunflower and quinoa is depressing. The combination of potatoes with celery is undesirable. Regarding the compatibility of potatoes and beets, peas and tomatoes, opinions are contradictory.

You have gained some insight into the benefits of co-planting horticultural crops. If you are fascinated by this idea, do not stop: study the characteristics of those plants that you plan to cultivate, consult experienced gardeners, consult specialists, and success will certainly come. Your favorite garden, sparkling with new colors, will delight you with its appearance and worthy harvests.

Joint plantingsvegetable, berry, green and ornamental crops in the country beds x is not a know-how, not an innovation, but technologies used for many centuries of traditional cultivation of vegetable crops. Examples of joint planting vegetables in the bedswere known to both the American Indians and the ancient Slavs. Modern agricultural technicians study the interaction of different crops within a single industry -plant allelopathy. We are talking about the beneficial or depressing mutual influence of various plants planted in the neighborhood. For small country farms themeco-cultivationvariety of vegetables and herbs is especially relevant, since the use of such a planting method will allow using the available area more economically in quantitative terms and more efficiently in terms of quality.

Why is it important to properly combine vegetables in the beds

In order to get the maximum yield on the minimum area, using the technology of combined beds, it is necessary to understand the basics of crop rotation, since even the wrong alternation of crops planted on the same piece of land in different years can both improve the result and nullify all efforts. gardener. Since the gardener is primarily interested in the yield and health of plantings, the right choice neighbor and in the garden allows you to solve both problems.

Understanding the secrets of combined cultivation vegetable x, green and decorative cultures you can achieve not only a rich healthy harvest, but also combine the useful with the beautiful: the garden bed can become a garden decoration, turning into a flower bed. When choosing neighboring crops, the following factors must be considered: Plants with similar conditions of maintenance and care requirements are planted on the same bed: light, humidity, acidity and soil structure, mode and composition of dressings. If most culture parameters are the same, then the nuances can be taken into account correctly by drawing up a diagramjoint landing: plant a more moisture-loving plant in the center of the beds, where the level of soil moisture is higher than along the edge. The same applies to size: the tallest specimens from a set of crops require planting in the center, the shortest - a curb, then everyone will have enough sunlight.

Compliance with crop rotation is an indispensable condition. Related crops belonging to the same family should not follow friend after another from season to season, as they draw the nutrients necessary for these particular plants from the soil (which means that next season the “relative” will already be deprived of soil fertility) and pathogenic microorganisms accumulate during the season that harm this particular family (which means , "relative" is initially susceptible to "family" disease). It is necessary to plant plants with a powerful deep root system and short surface roots on the same bed side by side so that these crops coexist and alternate: deep-shallow-deep. With such a planting, the roots of the neighbors will not compete for the underground space, each developing in its own direction.

Joint landingdifferent cultures is possible not only within the spatial framework, when plants are planted simultaneously and ripen in parallel.

Joint planting within time limits allows you to harvest some vegetables, making room for later neighbors that are emerging and starting to develop.

good example such conveyor principlecombined planting in the garden, the width of which is 1 m, and the row spacing is 10 cm: Planting: lettuce (leaf) and radish in one row - alternating every 10 cm; next row: watercress, kohlrabi alternates in a row with head lettuce, spinach is planted in three rows in a row, an early potato variety, a couple more rows of spinach. Total 9 k ultur. Harvest: spinach and watercress are harvested first (leaves cut, roots left); as they ripen, radishes are pulled out and leaf lettuce is removed after one; later, after harvesting the head lettuce, kohlrabi and potatoes remain until fully ripe.

Vertical example combining compatible plants on the same bed: The bed is located in an east-west direction. Along the northern border, along the entire length, a trellis support was installed for tying up a climbing crop - beans. Rows: beans, after 0.2 m - undersized tomatoes, after 0.2 m - carrots, after 0.2 m - onions, along the edge - fragrant spice (for example, basil) or marigolds to protect against insects. Carrots, onions and beans are planted first, a little later, when the beans catch on the trellis, tomato seedlings are planted. Harvesting in this combination is almost simultaneous for all vegetable neighbors.

Benefits of mixed landings

The benefits of planting vegetables, herbs and ornamental crops in common beds, given their compatibility, include not only saving space, although this is the reason that often pushes gardeners to mixed cultivation.

Properly using the features of certain plants, you can protect plantings from the attack of insect pests: marigolds, oregano, mint, spicy herbs drive away insects, protecting their neighbors in the garden. Onions and garlic can also be a reliable barrier. If you plant nasturtium next to vegetables, then aphids will prefer an ornamental crop, not reaching the vegetables. The smell of rosemary will repel bean lovers, and thyme will help cabbage resist insect attacks. As a result, the summer resident will have a harvest of vegetables and aromatic tea additives in the fall. Many cultures are not just friendship t, but show a beneficial effect on the development of each other: tall sun-loving sunflowers and corn they coexist perfectly, as their roots develop at different depths, and create the necessary shade for low plants that prefer light shading: chard, spinach.

Early spinach greens will keep the soil moist and keep weeds from growing while beets and beans, potatoes, or tomatoes are growing in the same area. And when the time comes to cut the spinach leaves, roots useful for the soil will remain in the ground, helping the neighbors to extract food from the soil. These and others examples of joint planting vegetables in the gardendemonstrate the advantages of growing different crops in a common area, if you know that with what and why it is friendly, what can be planted next to one common garden . It is equally important to consider which of the plants do not tolerate each other.

What are compatible with

Cabbage

Cabbage crops usually suffer from pests, so onions, garlic are planted to protect against voracious caterpillars, and the aroma of mint, sage, rosemary and Bogorodskaya grass will help against butterflies. Snails do not like borage, earthen fleas avoid planting celery.

In addition to the defenders, cabbage there are just friendly neighbor vegetables: potatoes, salads, cucumbers, beets.

Carrots are not recommended as neighbors to cabbage (although with broccoli possibly), beans, grapes, strawberries, tomatoes are planted away from cabbage.

Tomatoes

It has been noticed that basil is not just best neighbor for tomatoes , it makes vegetables taste richer. Combines harmoniously with garlic, which protects against pests, leafy greens, radishes and radishes, beans, carrots, onions and beets. Developing well tomatoes next to peppers , even in closed ground conditions - in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Dill and it is better to plant potatoes far away, but nettle - a malicious weed - is very useful for improving the taste of tomatoes.

cucumbers

There is an experience when cucumbers are planted with corn, which helps to cope with ants, becomes an additional support for tenacious cucumbers, corn leaves cover a neighbor from the hot sun.

Radishes and radishes repel beetles and improve the taste of fruits. Can plant next to onion with garlic. Compatibility of related plants - cucumbers and zucchini - good example of co-cultivation on the same bed. Spinach, beans with beans, dill, celery and even beets - good ones neighbors in the cucumber beds. Compatibility vegetables and weedsplants in the gardenmanifests itself in a combination of cucumbers and tansy, amaranth, quinoa. These weeds help the crop resist pests.

Cucumbers and tomatoes do not grow side by side, especially in greenhouses and greenhouses - they have too different conditions. Potatoes and spices are also planted away from each other.

Pumpkin

Some gardeners believe that a pumpkin cannot be found in a favorable neighborhood. They definitely don’t plant a pumpkin next to zucchini - this is fraught with pollination, with potatoes, peppers and eggplants and legumes. Possibility of co-planting with radish and nasturtium - these cultures perform a protective function.

Carrot

The best neighbor for carrots - onions, but perennial onions. The fact is that onions and carrots have a fundamental difference in watering needs: either the onion will rot, or the carrot will not be born. Garlic, spinach, radish, lettuce are the most popularexamples of beds with joint plantings carrots.

Dill from carrot beds is torn out mercilessly: these plants, competitors for moisture and nutrition, have the same diseases. Carrots and parsley , not the best neighbor and celery.

Potato

When planting potatoes, many experienced gardeners throw a bean into the hole - the best partner for the crop, helping to get a more abundant harvest. Potatoes have many useful garden companions: beans, coriander, marigolds with nasturtium or tansy protect against the main pest - the Colorado potato beetle. Garlic planted between rows helps to cope with late blight.

Potato friends are radishes, salads, cabbage, eggplant, horseradish (if you control its distribution), calendula, corn.

But the quinoa inhibits the growth of potatoes, for the same reason they do not plant beets nearby. Raspberries and tomatoes can provoke late blight. Zucchini, cucumbers, sorrel - examples of crop incompatibility

Beet

Having identified as neighbors to beets mint or catnip, the gardener saves himself from fighting aphids and fleas, the main pests of the vegetable. Proven neighbors for root crops are cabbage (white cabbage), carrots, onions, celery, carrots, strawberries are also suitable. But for a mutually beneficial neighborhood, all plants need to provide a place - you can not thicken the plantings.

Beet antagonists - potatoes, beans. Not recommended around plant mustard.

bell pepper

Basil is not just a neighbor. It is an active helper for Bulgarian peppers , it contributes to better growth and development of the plant. Onions are good for peppers, and beets are just a good neighbor. Not grown next to the pepper carrots, peas, beans.

Onion

Perennial onions on a feather and carrots - an almost perfect examplecompatibility of plants in the garden. And onions grown for the sake of bulbs are incompatible with carrots, since moisture-loving carrots will ruin a neighbor or an onion crop will leave a gardener without carrots, because they have different requirements for substrate moisture.

Comfortably onions on the same bed with tomatoes, green crops, beets, strawberries. But not with sage, radish, beans, legumes, grapes, gladioli.

Garlic

Garlic is valued by gardeners for its beneficial nutritional qualities and for the vegetable's contribution to pest control: it protects plantings from insects, caterpillars, slugs and even moles if a large area is planted with garlic. Friendly garlic with radishes, salads, celery, strawberries, carrots. It protects potato plantings from phytophthora, and decorative ones - gladioli and roses - from aphids.

Among the enemies of garlic, we note legumes.

eggplant

eggplant with beans - the perfect alliance in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. Creeping thyme protects eggplant from fleas. Enter into one scheme planting with eggplant turnip onion, peppers, herbs. Incompatible with cucumbers, cabbage.

Other vegetables

radish it is good to grow next to carrots, cabbage, turnips, beans, lettuces, tomatoes, beans. And onions, cucumbers, beets are not suitable for general planting with radishes.

Turnip can grow with peas, but does not develop surrounded by asparagus, next to mustard.

Salads are used in various combined beds. And spinach is recommended for mandatory planting: agricultural technicians mark it compatible with any plants in the gardenand benefit in the enrichment of dacha land.

Unfavorable Neighborhood

The list of plants that do not get along in close company with other crops is small. The leader of this list is fennel, which requires an individual planting.

More often, incompatibility is explained by family ties of cultures (dill, coriander, parsley, the umbrella family, they compete and suffer from the same diseases).

When planning a general planting scheme, consider the size of an adult plant, the characteristics of the root system, the need for free space on a plot of land. If we neglect these factors, then even a neighborhood that is favorable in theory will only bring problems in practice.

By studying the peculiarities of the influence of plants on each other, the gardener increases the efficiency of his work. The summer resident transforms the appearance of the site every year, because knowledge of the basics of allelopathy of garden and horticultural crops allows you to create unique flower beds that give a rich harvest and give beauty and joy.

Most summer residents have very small areas, and they try to fit as many vegetables as possible in the garden. Some combinations are useful, but there are also unwanted neighbors. It is important to have an idea of ​​what this or that neighborhood can lead to.

Why do we need joint planting of vegetables

Joint planting of various vegetables in the garden is not only space saving. Many cultures protect each other from pests and diseases, various herbs are especially important in this matter, and onions and garlic are especially famous for their phytoncidal action. Tall plants (corn, sunflower) protect delicate vegetables from the winds and the scorching sun, they can also serve as a support for climbing plants.

Early vegetables can keep weeds from growing while slow-witted ones like carrots and parsley have emerged. The rapidly rising radish serves as a “beacon” culture: it is sown to the same carrots so that future rows can be seen during weeding. And a classic is planting seedlings of late cabbage or eggplant in those beds where early greens or the same radish are already ripening: while the seedlings take root, the spring harvest will already be harvested.

A good owner does not lose a single centimeter of the garden

The concept of "compacting cultures" is well known. Compactors can serve as a source of nitrogen (peas, beans), to protect against pests (onions, garlic) or to attract pollinators (mint, basil, etc.).

Examples of successful combinations of vegetables in the same garden

The classic option, known even to novice gardeners, is the joint planting of onions and carrots: onions drive away the carrot fly, and carrots drive away the onion fly. Onions and garlic in general can be planted with almost any vegetable. There are many other useful combinations. So, basil, planted in a tomato garden, accelerates fruiting and improves the taste of tomatoes. As a result, even yields can increase by 20%.

Onions mixed with carrots - a famous example of a good neighborhood

Dill drives the white butterfly away from the cabbage beds, celery saves the cabbage from the cabbage fly. Peas and beans have the ability to extract nitrogen literally "from the air", fixing it in the soil on their roots. Obviously, part of the nitrogen is transferred in this case to the nearest neighbors. Spinach contributes to the accumulation of moisture in the soil, they try to plant it with those vegetables that do not tolerate drought.

Horseradish is often considered an unwanted neighbor, as it spreads throughout the garden. But if you restrain its growth, it benefits, for example, potatoes, driving away pests. Beans are added to potatoes to fight the Colorado potato beetle. Peas often suffer from codling moth. If you sow mustard nearby, he will be saved.

What vegetables can not be planted in one garden

Neighborhood rules intersect with crop rotation rules, and one of the main ones is that related crops should not be planted nearby. This is mainly due to the fact that they suffer from some diseases and pests. Therefore, we must try not to plant eggplants or potatoes next to tomatoes. Pepper is also not worth it, but this rule is often neglected.

Another rule says that the root system of neighbors must be at a different level. No matter how useful powerful corn is for sheltering crops from hell and winds, those vegetables that have weak roots will have nothing to eat next to it. Therefore, for example, onions should be planted further away.

Often a neighbor is bad because it requires different humidity conditions. And if, for example, cabbage needs to be watered for almost the entire season, then tomatoes do not water at all during the ripening period: they will crack. By planting them side by side, you can be left without a crop of tomatoes. For approximately the same reason (and also because of the humidity of the air), cucumbers should not be planted next to tomatoes in a greenhouse.

There are various tables: sometimes they contradict each other a little, but only in particulars

Joint planting of vegetables in the garden saves space and often allows you to increase yields. It is only necessary when planning plantings to know that bad combinations of crops, although rare, also occur.

Rotation of crops in the beds. There are two approaches to separating plants into good and bad predecessors, which will be discussed later.
Predecessor- a crop grown in the previous sowing season or 1-5 months before the current crop.

siderates- plants such as: white mustard, phacelia, buckwheat, rye, legumes. In summer cottages, they are grown not for harvesting (except for legumes, of course), but for subsequent grinding and embedding in the soil in order to enrich it with many minerals, primarily nitrogen. Where does nitrogen come from in these plants? Green manure roots contain entire colonies of special bacteria - nitrogen fixers. Another benefit of green manure: their roots do not need to be painstakingly pulled out and chopped, let them remain, because the passages from them allow the soil to “breathe”, and the roots of vegetables planted after green manure will develop better. That is, the roots of green manure, as it were, loosen the soil. Again - we have less work to do, no need to loosen and go to fertilize the soil with mineral fertilizers from sachets, previously dissolved. Yes, and green manure costs much less than fertilizers in powders and ampoules. They are cold-resistant, you can plant them at least when, they grow very quickly. Three crops of legumes will enrich the soil as if you had fertilized it with a good dose of manure. Green manure also allows you to deoxidize the soil. And many summer residents have such a problem, because we got the territories previously used for collective farm fields in the allotment, therefore, the soil was depleted.

organic farming- a way to care for the site, which does not use artificial mineral fertilizers sold in bags in stores. But this does not mean a complete rejection of mineral fertilizers. You can use peat (for loosening the soil); lime - ordinary, for whitewashing ceilings (for deoxidizing the soil); ash as a source of soluble potassium, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, boron, manganese and other micro and macro elements. You will read the same list of chemical elements from the periodic table on bags of mineral fertilizers, with which you also need to work with gloves and even sometimes in a respirator, without children nearby. The best ash comes from burning wood, there is the most balanced composition. But you can also use it from under the burning of thick stems of some plants - sunflower, for example. If you already apply ash, do not use other mineral fertilizers, otherwise you will upset the balance in the soil. Also, in organic farming, they do not diligently dig up the soil, they only loosen it superficially so as not to mix the beneficial bacteria of the upper and lower layers, because. These bacteria work only in their native layer. Also, the soil with this method of farming should not remain “bare”, there should always be something on it: either a growing crop or green manure, or at least the soil should be covered with a layer of cut lawn grass, or, temporarily, rotted weeds, or mulched compost.

Mulching- the technique used in the above method of farming. Finely cut weeds (without fanaticism, you can just chop with a sharp shovel or weeder), fall asleep around the ascended and more or less developed plants on watered and loosened soil, otherwise a thick layer of mulch will crush the young shoots, and they will rot. Everything, until the end of summer, you can not suffer with frequent watering and loosening after each watering.

mixed landings- when different crops are planted on the same bed. They allow us to save the area for sowing on our small lands, cover the soil with leaves so that it does not dry out, scare away various pests of one crop by secreting neighboring crops into the air and soil, and even serve as a support for neighboring climbing plants. Sometimes plants even improve each other's taste, such as beans planted in a narrow strip among strawberries. But there are also irreconcilable enemy plants, which cannot be planted nearby.
I will tell you about all these methods.

Basic principles of crop rotation - two ways to separate plants into good and bad predecessors

The first way of dividing plants into good and bad predecessors is according to the need of plants for nutrients. Vegetables "take" from the soil, and also bring useful substances into it in different ways, all plants are divided into three groups according to their nutrient needs: with a high need, with an average, with a weak one. It is necessary to alternate crops of different groups so that the soil is not depleted.

Plants with a high nutrient requirement are easy to remember, they are mostly with large fruits: potatoes, cabbage, pumpkin, zucchini, rhubarb, but also small ones: spinach and celery. However, it should be noted some feature of the crop rotation for this group of crops - for several years in a row (2-3 years exactly) you can grow potatoes and cabbage in one place, not forgetting to sow green manure before winter or in early spring, this even allows you to "cleanse" the soil from weeds , because we field and loosen these crops, we spud them twice a season, or even more often.

With an average need for nutrients - smaller plants: cucumbers and melons, kohlrabi and radish, eggplant and tomatoes, curly beans, leeks, beets and carrots, horseradish is also here.
Finally, plants with a weak need for nutrients: peas and bush beans - they can even be used as green manure, they bring a lot of nitrogen, as well as onions, radishes, lettuce, herbs.
The second way to divide plants into good and bad predecessors is according to which family the plants belong to. It’s easier to navigate here, it’s enough to remember school knowledge. The principle of crop rotation here is as follows: you cannot plant plants of the same family in the same place for two years in a row. The most common crops of such families in our plots are: cabbage (cruciferous) - radish, turnip, radish, daikon, cabbage (naturally), horseradish and watercress. Nightshade - here you need to be especially careful, because. this family has many diseases and pests: potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, physalis. Pumpkin - they need to be spread not only at the time of planting, but also at the place, as they are pollinated - zucchini and squash, pumpkins with melons and watermelons and, of course, cucumbers. Butterflies are excellent green manure, so planting them every year in the same place is impractical - peas, beans, beans and lentils, the latter is rarely grown.

How to draw up a crop rotation scheme on your site

Anyone can draw up a correct scheme for the alternation of cultures, although it seems at first glance that it is impossible - as if solving Einstein's complex logical problem. It is enough to draw a diagram of your beds, number them. In the table, write down the numbers of beds in rows, in columns - years. Then arm yourself with a pencil, eraser and spread the names of crops on the table. Keep in mind the two principles of crop rotation, that is, do not plant plants of the same family in the same place, as well as plants with the highest need for nutrients ahead of plants with a lower need for them. That, it would seem, is all. But it turns out that there is also the concept of mixed plantings and plants, “good neighbors” and “bad”, because our plots are small, in fields the size of half a hectare we will not be able to spread different types of crops, we have to spread crops not only in time , but also locally, and this is for one season.

List of good and bad predecessors

So, the list of crops, good and bad predecessors, at the end - what to plant after this crop (so as not to search the list of bad-good predecessors again).
I note that green manure, including cereals with legumes, can be recorded as good predecessors for any crops, except for legumes, and they can also be planted after any crops, except for legumes.
Watermelon, melon, pumpkin. Good predecessors are onions, cabbage, root crops. Bad - sunflower, potatoes, pumpkin. After planting: beans, lettuce, peas, beans, herbs.
Cabbage. Good predecessors are carrots, onions, cucumbers. Bad - all cabbage (with turnips, radishes and radishes), beets, tomatoes, horseradish. After planting: watermelons with melons, pumpkin, cucumbers with zucchini and squash, onions, carrots, celery and tomatoes with peppers and eggplant (after fertilizing with green manure), garlic, potatoes can be used, the latter - only after fertilization.
Peas. Good predecessors are cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage and potatoes. The bad ones are beans. After planting: everything except legumes.
Carrot. Good predecessors are cucumbers with zucchini, cabbage, onions, and tomatoes. The bad ones are carrots themselves, potatoes, as well as parsley and, oddly enough, beans. After planting: onions are the best, as well as garlic, you can also tomato. I do not recommend potatoes, my harvest did not work out after carrots, although they advise in crop rotation tables. Apparently, root crops after root crops are still not planted.
Parsley. Good predecessors are cucumber, onion, tomatoes. Bad ones are carrots, parsley itself, celery, especially after root parsley. After planting: zucchini, squash.
Radish, turnip, radish. Good predecessors are potatoes, beans, cucumbers and tomatoes. Bad - cabbage, as they also belong to the cruciferous. Also carefully weed such beds from the weed, for the same reason. After planting: zucchini, squash.
Celery. Good predecessors are cabbage, tomato, cucumbers. Bad ones are carrots, root parsley, especially celery itself. After planting: lettuce, bush beans, onions, herbs.
Beet. Good predecessors are cucumber, onion, garlic. The bad ones are beets themselves, as well as other root crops - carrots, celery and chard, although it is leafy, but still a relative, as well as cabbage. After planting: zucchini, squash, potatoes, lettuce.
Nightshade - tomato, pepper, eggplant. Good predecessors are cucumber, cabbage (only after green manure), onions. The bad ones are all nightshade. After planting: onions, garlic, carrots, parsley, cruciferous (radish and radish), cucumbers. Often they even alternate plantings in greenhouses of cucumber and tomato, as well as pepper, which is very convenient.
Cucumber. Good predecessors are tomato, cabbage (after green manure). Bad - zucchini, patisson, pumpkins, melons, watermelons. After planting: tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants, carrots, parsley, beets.
Zucchini, patisson. Good predecessors are cabbage (after green manure), radishes with radishes and turnips, onions, carrots, greens. Bad - pumpkin. After planting: carrots, bush beans, lettuce, radishes.
Onion. Good predecessors are nightshade, cabbage, legumes. Bad - the very same onions, garlic, cucumbers. After planting: everything except onions, garlic and cucumbers.
Garlic. Good predecessors are tomato, cabbage. Bad - onions with garlic, cucumbers, carrots. After planting: everything except onions, garlic and cucumbers.
Potato. Good predecessors are beets, cabbage (after green manure). Bad - the rest are nightshade. After planting (but only after green manure): cabbage, pumpkin, garlic, onions, root vegetables, greens.

mixed landings

To enhance the effect of proper crop rotation, you can experiment with mixed plantings.
A few rules for mixed landings. Basically, you can use the above table of bad and good predecessors. Plants of the same family are not planted side by side, there will be many pests.
Tall ones will shade short ones, consider when orienting plantings where the sun rises and sets.
Shade-tolerant: dill, parsley, rhubarb, spinach, sorrel (especially), lettuce, zucchini, Chinese cabbage.
Photophilous: tomato, pepper, eggplant, melon, watermelon, cucumber, peas, beans.
Moderately photophilous (means if the shadow is some part of the daylight hours, then this is even good): onions, garlic, cabbage, beans, carrots, beets, turnips, radishes, radishes.
Consider which group the plants belong to in terms of nutrient requirements so as not to deplete the soil.
Densely branching roots of some can entangle the thin roots of other plants.
Fast-growing crops can be planted in slow-ripening crops, a classic example is the neighborhood of carrots and onions.
Not a single plant is compatible with fennel (a relative of dill), so it is planted in the farthest corner of the garden.
Most fragrant herbs, spices, and even dandelions, have a beneficial effect on plantings by repelling insect pests; this knowledge has been used since medieval times, in monastic gardens. Those who are fond of medicinal herbs can find an article by N. M. Zhirmunskaya “Good and bad neighbors in the garden bed”, it is described in detail about herbs. I don’t plant grass yet, because. I don’t use them much in cooking, so let’s focus on vegetables.

Examples of beds with mixed plantings

Classic - carrots and onions. Onion fly and carrot fly will not start in such a bed. You pull out onions in August, and carrots - a little later, also with this method, very few weeds grow.
Since the time of the Indians, the planting of corn, pumpkin and beans has been considered a classic. The pumpkin gives shade to the soil, there are fewer weeds, and high corn prevents the sun from burning the pumpkin, while the beans simply enrich the soil with nitrogen. I tried corn next to potatoes. Liked.
Of the unusual neighbors: cucumber and corn (or sunflower). The cucumber wraps around a thick stem, oddly enough, without preventing its support from developing, and they, in turn, protect the cucumber from the wind. I wrote down this method for myself, maybe I'll try it.
Garlic, and along the edges - plant radishes or beets individually. Then plant green manure.
Onions, along the edges singly - early radish, I especially liked the variety "Early Red", very large. But such a load for the garden - root crops pull out a lot of nutrients from the soil, although onions clean it - must be accompanied by autumn or August sowing of green manure.

Rice. 1. Beds prepared for sowing onions and radishes.

Rice. 2. The same beds after harvesting radishes.

Rice. 3. After harvesting the onion, with green manure already sprouted (white mustard). Early October.

Daikon, around the edges - early radish. Despite the fact that these are both root crops, the ripening period is different, so the daikon will still be born huge, 30-35 centimeters.

Rice. 4. July. Daikon 'Minowase' grown with early radish planted in early June.

Row of radish, row of spinach, lettuce, dill around the edges. The very first planting, the earliest harvest, dill is the last to be plucked. In general, dill can be sown to many crops. They say that the neighborhood of spinach with lettuce improves the taste of the latter.
Cabbage, marigolds around the edges. It's beautiful and repels pests.
Cabbage, cauliflower and plain, with dill - the most ideal neighborhood. Dill also only benefits from such placement.
Green onions among tomatoes in a greenhouse - while the tomato stem develops, onions grow quickly in such chic greenhouse conditions.
A row of onions, a row of beets, a row of lettuce, another row of onions. Looks good. Lettuce ripened - quickly removed, beets and onions got more room for development. The next harvest is onions, again there is room for further development of beets.
I tried other options for mixed plantings recommended on the Internet, some did not like.
I didn't like the beans and beans among the potatoes. They only interfere with hilling, wrap around potatoes. In addition, these crops are potassium-loving, they draw potassium from the soil. However, it is good to grow black beans around the potato allotment, it seems to scare the moles away a little. But it is necessary that black beans grow around the entire perimeter, along a closed contour. This method of scaring away moles came to us from Estonia. I will definitely try it.
There is also a means of fighting mice, it was practically successfully tested by our neighbors. It is necessary to plant white mustard around the perimeter of the site. In autumn, use again for embedding in the soil and enriching it with nitrogen.
Lettuce and spinach did not grow among the winter radish and daikon. Those crushed him with a shadow from their powerful leaves. Although I also read this method on the Internet. Like, lettuce and spinach are harvested early, and radish and daikon - much later. Nothing like this. Cruciferous leaves grow very quickly, shade lettuce and spinach.
Spinach among the leek was small in size, absolutely not impressed.

Rice. 5. Spinach in the middle of a leek as an example of an unsuccessful mixed planting.

Garlic among strawberries never grows large for me, although this is considered a classic planting. But he was born well after green manure.

Rice. 6. Sizes of huge cloves of garlic after green manure.

Rice. 7. Medium-sized garlic grown among strawberries.

Technology 1-2-3-4-5-6 for creating beds for strawberries - immediately applying the principles of crop rotation and mixed plantings

The crop rotation scheme with the use of joint plantings is widely known - the “1-2-3-4-5-6” technology, as I called it, to create a good bed for strawberries in the sixth year.
Based on the creation of high beds. It is possible with fencing boards, it is possible without. Branches are laid down for drainage - from berry bushes, for example. But they need to be cut down. I did not chop some, they sprouted by spring, even gave leaves. Apparently, they were very tenacious. You can even put an old chain-link under the branches to protect against rodents. Then a layer of earth is laid, then compost, and so on, we also throw off the weeded weeds there, it is better that they did not have time to give seeds, without roots. In the spring we cover everything with a small layer of earth with compost and use "new technologies". Such a bed already has time to warm up when snow is everywhere, because it is closer to the sun, although only 20-50 cm from ground level.
Compost can be used from under annual plantings of zucchini, although it is unripe; specially collected and rotted for 2-3 years compost, already black and loose; purchased - but it is very expensive; as well as just pea tops and the top of the pea bed soil.

Rice. 8. Such dry tops from under peas, as well as the soil from under it, are an excellent source of nitrogen and can be planted in any garden bed.

Rice. 9. Unripe one-year-old compost from under zucchini.

But you can use it immediately, as soon as you have created a bed, even from unripe compost. For this, the 1-2-3-4-5-6 technology was created. It is only necessary to cover the entire bed with black film or better with black agrotex, cut holes.
In the first year, when the weeds have not yet had time to rot, they release a lot of nitrogen, we plant plants that do not accumulate nitrates - cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini. In no case should you plant greens, cabbage, beets and radishes. At the end of summer, we will plant white mustard, as pumpkin, as we remember, draw out a lot of nutrients. If we have time, we will chop the mustard in the winter and put it in the garden, then we will close it with a film for the winter. If we do not have time, we will close up the remains in the spring, but without the use of a shovel, only with a weeder, loosening the soil shallowly.

Rice. 10. Beginning of the construction of the beds of the first year.

In the second year do not forget to create the same bed next to it, the second one. On it we plant what is supposed to be planted in the first year. And on the first bed, which has been living for the second year, we plant kohlrabi, cauliflower or tomatoes, it is also possible to plant beets from the edge, if the bed is flat, and not fenced with boards. For the winter we do everything the same as in the first year.
In the third year we are creating a third bed, so we already have three such high beds for this technology. On the third we grow what is supposed to be grown in the first year. On the second - what is supposed to be grown in the second year. And on the first one, which is now three years old, we grow early cabbage, carrots or celery, you can also pepper and eggplant. Along the edges, you can onion on a turnip of nigella. In the fall, what to do - remember.
In the fourth year add another row. We place cultures by analogy with previous years. And on the oldest bed, four-year-old - beets or carrots, along the edges you can also onion on a turnip, a large one grows. In the fall, again, do not forget to take care of the garden.
In the fifth year on the oldest, five-year-old bed, we will grow greens - lettuce, dill, parsley, because a lot of nutrients have already been pulled out of the soil by planting the previous four years, despite the fact that we planted green manure for the winter. And greens do not require highly nutritious soil. And on a four-year-old, three-year-old, two-year-old and (do not forget to make one new high bed every year!) On new beds, we plant what is supposed to be planted on beds of this age. In autumn, we have green manure sowing already on five beds.
In the sixth year the oldest, six-year-old, bed will no longer be as high as before. For strawberries, just because high beds require watering more often than ordinary ones located flush with the ground, because the berry requires rare watering. We plant radishes on it in early spring, and then, after harvesting, strawberry mustaches, which will grow on such a bed for three years.
Then, three years later, after harvesting the strawberry whiskers from our oldest garden bed, we start all over again.

Do not be afraid to get confused in the rules of crop rotation and the principles of joint planting: in any case, there will be a harvest, you will be able to indulge in berries and early vegetables, and you will certainly enjoy the experiment. Have a rich harvest!

COMMUNAL IN THE BED

Use the acreage to the fullest. For example, for radish, planting can be done according to the 4 × 4 cm scheme, completely sowing the allotted area. For carrots, an area of ​​​​5 × 5 cm is sufficient, and for beets, 9 × 9 cm. Turnips, summer radish can be planted according to the scheme of 8 × 8 cm, for late black radish, an area of ​​​​12 × 12 cm is required.

It is quite possible to plant cauliflower according to the scheme of 30 × 30 cm, and head cabbage - 40 × 40 cm. At the same time, plant upright (tall) marigolds between the plants of any cabbage and compact the plantings with lettuce or spinach and even radishes.

It is better to sow cucumbers in one row after 20-25 cm, and for tall tomatoes formed in one stem, an area of ​​\u200b\u200b30 × 30 cm is enough, that is, I place 9-10 plants per square meter. For non-stepchildren, undersized tomatoes, the area should be left larger (40 × 40 cm), since their main crop comes from stepchildren, and therefore the bush becomes spreading.

Peppers will cost a place of 25 × 25 cm. But bush dill Buyan (or Salute), as well as leaf parsley, in particular the Sorceress, require the same distance between plants as cauliflower, then you really get a big harvest.

It is best to plant the beds located in the garden, not with one crop, but to make a large communal apartment out of the garden, populating it with different residents that are compatible with each other.

COMPATIBILITY OF CROPS

There are plants that get along well side by side, protecting each other with their smell from pests, are mutual biostimulants, and there are warring plants that suppress each other in every possible way, for example, beans are very accommodating, almost all plants are friends, but fennel is fierce for everyone enemy.

When planting plants in a small area, this fact must be taken into account so that hostility does not arise in the beds. At the same time, three factors must be remembered: it is impossible to plant next to or after each other crops belonging to the same species, those that take out the same nutrients in the same ratio, have the same habitus, that is, the same height of the aerial part and one and the same root depth. In addition, plant roots secrete mycotoxins to protect their territory from intruders, so the compatibility of plant root systems must also be taken into account.

Beds planted with different compatible plants resist pests much better than beds planted with a single crop, which is noticed by many amateur gardeners.

The mixture of their smells fools pests, even omnivores, because it prevents them from emitting the smell of those plants - their breadwinners that they feed on. And pests, just in case, fly around such communal apartments. Do not believe - check.

This summer, sow a bed intended for carrots along the perimeter of the crown with seeds of undersized marigolds. Then plant a row of parsnips (white carrots) or broccoli seeds in the center. Stepping back 20 cm on each side, sow one row of radishes on each side, then a row of carrots, a row of black onions (or small sets), again a row of carrots on each side.

Instead of broccoli, you can sow lettuce. In the middle of the beds, sow the seeds of tall marigolds after 15-20 cm. Cover the bed with double lutrasil. When frosts and the flight of vegetable flies pass (after cherry blossoms), lutrasil can be removed.

Such sowing in the North-West can be done at the very end of April - early May, as soon as the soil thaws (the time of flowering of the coltsfoot). At the end of May, the bed will be freed from radish, then from lettuce, and for other grown crops, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bnutrition and lighting will increase.

COMPATIBLE FITS

Eggplant - beans.

Broccoli - beets, sage.

Peas - eggplant, calendula, corn, cucumber, radish, carrot.

Pear - see apple tree.

Strawberries - marigolds, borage, lettuce, beans, garlic, spinach.

Cabbage - anise, potatoes, onions, peppermint, rosemary, medicinal chamomile, beets, celery, dill.

Cauliflower - celery.

Calendula, garlic - gladioli, strawberries, roses, currants, tulips. Kohlrabi - onion, lettuce, beetroot, cucumber, spices.

Corn - peas, potatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, beans.

Onions and garlic - strawberries, carrots, medicinal chamomile, beets, celery, tomato, savory.

Raspberry - plum, apple tree, calendula.

Carrots - peas, onions, radishes, radishes, rosemary, lettuce, tomato, sage. Nasturtium - most vegetables, phlox.

Cucumber - peas, corn, sunflower, radish, beans, tomato, cabbage. Parsley - asparagus, tomato.

Sunflower - cucumber. Radishes - peas, nasturtium, cucumber, lettuce.

Radish - beets, spinach, carrots, parsley, tomato, pumpkin, cucumber.

Turnip - peas. Salad - strawberries, carrots, cucumber, radish.

Beets - kohlrabi, onion, radish, cabbage, beans, beans, lettuce.

Celery - cabbage, onion, tomato, beans, cauliflower, leek.

Tomato - calendula, levkoy, onion, nasturtium, parsley, celery, asparagus. Pumpkin - corn.

Dill, spinach - radish, turnip, cabbage.

Beans - cabbage, potatoes, carrots, cucumber, savory and most horticultural crops except beets.

Phlox - nasturtium.

Apple tree - spruce, calendula, raspberry, tansy, tomato, dill.

INCOMPATIBLE FITS

Eggplant - other nightshade crops.

Cherry - raspberry.

Peas - gladioli, potatoes, onions, garlic.

Strawberries - cabbage.

Cabbage - strawberries, tomatoes, beans.

Onions, garlic - peas, beans.

Carrots - dill, parsley, celery and other umbrella crops.

Cucumber - potatoes, zucchini, aromatic herbs.

Pepper - beets.

Sunflower - potatoes.

Beets - beans, spinach.

Tomato - other nightshade crops, including potatoes, cabbage. Pumpkin - potatoes.

Beans - gladioli, onions, garlic, beets.

Not a single plant tolerates the neighborhood of fennel and hyssop, so they should be planted in a separate corner of the garden. You can not plant strawberries after potatoes because of the nematode, as well as after tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage. Do not leave the pine tree - this is a wintering place for many pests, in particular, carrot psyllids, as well as columnar rust fungus spores. Remove buckthorn from the site and mow sedge - hotbeds of goblet rust.

CROP TURN ON ONE GROUND

If you have only one or two vegetable beds, then you need to do a crop rotation on one bed, populating it like a large communal apartment, taking care only that the neighbors do not quarrel with each other, but on the contrary, treat each other in a friendly way. You can choose them by carefully reading the list of compatible plants. For example, we plant beets, compacting them with early radishes planted in the aisles of beets even before they are planted. When the beets grow up and need a lot of space, the radishes will already be harvested and will not interfere with the beets. We plant 1-2 m beds with beets, and then we plant celery seedlings, just one row across the beds. Next, you can plant several plants of any cabbage, compacting the plantings with early planted spinach, then we will sow carrots according to the 5 × 5 cm pattern just one meter, we will plant onion sets one meter behind it, then we can plant lettuce, and then parsley. When the place from under the salad is free, we will plant a late radish. Next year we will move all the crops forward, and the beets will be at the end of the bed.

SEAL FIT - IN CROWDED BUT NOT MAD

We plant corn in one row in the center of the bed, on both sides of it - beans, and along the edges - carrots. Or alternate rows of corn with rows of ground cucumbers. The direction of the beds, as always, is north-south. Do not be afraid that cucumbers or beans will curl corn - it will not suffer from this, and at the same time it will protect the beans and cucumbers from the winds. A row of beans can be divided planting strawberries, from such a neighborhood the taste of berries improves, and planting one spinach plant among four lettuce plants improves the taste of the salad.

Nasturtium and marigolds are friends of vegetables, disorienting with their smell insects that fly around them, as they do not find their breadwinners among them.

Sow early carrots in the center of the bed. When the time comes, plant seedlings of cabbage on both sides of it, alternating it with marigolds, and plant nettles on the ends of the beds. Or plant a row of cabbage in the center of the bed, beets on the sides of it, and plant nasturtium on the sides of the bed.

Or plant celery along the edges of the beds, and a row of marigolds in the center, and cauliflower on either side of them.

You can use the bed twice: sow spinach in the center of the bed as early as possible, and on the sides of it - early turnips or radishes. When you remove spinach, sow winter radish in its place, and after harvesting turnips or radishes, late carrots.