When to dig up anemones and how to store. All the secrets of winter storage of corms: crocosmia, begonia, dahlia, freesia and anemone

The delicate spring anemone flower got its name from the Greek word "anemos", which means wind. People call it that - anemone. In order for the anemone to please you with its delicate flowering in spring, it should be taken care of in the fall. And one of the main questions is when to dig up anemones and how to store them in winter. Currently, there are already more than one and a half hundred species of anemones, and there are noticeable differences in their growing conditions. This is largely due to the type of anemone by the nature of the roots. All anemones can be divided into:

• rhizomatous,
• tuberous.

Do I need to dig up anemones in the fall

Rhizome anemones. not so spectacular during flowering, but also less capricious in care. There is no need to dig them out. V middle lane in winter, they just need to be covered. This can be done by mulching with peat, sawdust, or covering it with fallen leaves. In this case, the anemones will winter well and will delight you with their flowering at the end of next spring.

Tuberous anemones. In more detail, we will dwell on whether it is necessary to dig out for the winter and how to properly store planting material tuberous anemones. In nature, these types of anemones are common in southern Europe. They belong to plants short term vegetation. After flowering, they give seeds and die off.

Tuberous anemones are very sensitive to low temperatures. They are afraid of frost, they can rot due to stagnant water, or even rot due to temperature contrasts. Therefore, in the fall, anemone tubers are recommended to be dug up and stored indoors until spring. Let's take a closer look at the most known species tuberous anemones, considering them from the point of view of frost resistance: Apennine Anemone. Her homeland is the Balkans. But the flower is able to withstand frosts of minus 20 and below. Therefore, you can do without digging tubers for the winter. Be sure to cover the plant with a thick layer of mulch (up to 15 cm), spruce branches or spunbond. You can do both at the same time.

Anemone Caucasian. It grows in the Alps, in the Caucasus. It is quite cold-resistant, can do without digging up tubers. It is enough, as with the previous variety, to carry out mulching and cover with foliage, spruce branches or special material. The windmill is tender. According to experts, it is also capable, despite its name, of getting by in winter only with shelter, remaining to winter in the soil. Anemone garden. But this variety of anemones must be dug up and stored strictly indoors before the cold weather. Anemone sparkling. Homeland - Spain and France, so the plant is also not able to tolerate low temperatures. It requires digging up tubers, and this must be done in the summer, immediately after the death of the ground part of the flower. Crowned anemone. The most beautiful and delicate anemone of all known. So it is called because of the flower in the form of a crown, with bright petals painted like a felt-tip pen, up to 8 cm in diameter. But it is this type of anemone that is the most capricious. It is completely unsuited to wintering in the soil.

Crown anemones are grown in greenhouses all year round. It is designed for cutting, and it can also be "expelled" for early flowering in winter. Especially pleasant and unexpected is the crown anemone bloom on the eve of Christmas, New Year or March 8th. In order for the anemone to bloom in January, it is planted in September; so that the flower appears in March, they are planted in October.

The best time to dig

This is best done in the fall. The best period for digging anemone tubers in central Russia can be considered mid-September-early October.

How to dig correctly (highlights)

Carefully dig up the tubers with a shovel or pitchfork, always in dry weather, shake off the ground, remove the remnants of dry roots and stems. Then soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or foundationol for half an hour to destroy possible pathogens.

How to store tubers in winter (common mistakes)

The whole process of proper storage of nodules can be divided into 2 stages:

• Washed tubers are laid out in one layer to dry for about a month. The room temperature should be around 20 degrees. And it should be well ventilated.
• You can dry the tubers on a cool veranda under layers of newspaper.

A month later, dried tubers are placed in a paper bag or wooden box with the addition of sand, peat or sawdust. You can put them in plastic containers, having previously made holes for ventilation.

“Containers should be filled halfway so that the nodules can “breathe”. Optimum temperature storage in winter - plus 3-4 degrees Celsius.

Storage errors

Do not keep in excessively wet sand or peat - the kidneys may wake up. If this happens, plant the nodules in a small pot and place in a bright, cool room, occasionally moderately moistening the soil in the pot. And with the onset of heat, transfer the plant with a clod of earth into open ground.

The best place to store tubers is a dark, cool cellar. But it can also be the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. If the nodules are to be stored at room temperature, then they should be dried more thoroughly beforehand to avoid rotting. Such dried nodules, which have become similar to mummified balls, are called "crackers" by flower growers. At a temperature of 15 degrees Celsius, such "crackers" remain viable for up to 2-3 years.

“At the same time, you need to understand that if the tubers are dried out, they will remain, but they will enter the stage of such a deep dormancy that it will be difficult to “wake them up” later.

There is another approach. Since preparing anemones for storage is a rather troublesome task, it is easier to buy relatively inexpensive tubers annually and plant them in spring through seedlings.

Storing anemones

Anemone tubers are also quite large, up to 5 cm in diameter. They must be dug up in the fall and stored in the same way as described above. If you plant tubers at the end of March-April, then pre-soaking is not needed. If planted in May, then pre-soaking is required.

Conclusion

If you follow these simple requirements, then in the spring you will get out of the box the tubers of the anemone that overwintered in the warmth. And after one and a half to two months they will thank you with their bright and vibrant flowering.

The genus of perennial herbaceous flowers, called the anemone (anemone), is very diverse, because it includes about 170 species of all shades of the rainbow. V garden culture varieties such as Japanese, crowned, tender, forest have taken root. All types of anemones can be divided into 2 categories: tuberous and rhizome. If we talk about rhizomatous, then they mainly include all wild-growing species (forest), but in gardens and in shops, tuberous flowers are most often found.

Lush greenery, flowers of impressive brightness and size are the hallmark of anemones. The petals of large flowers (up to 10 cm in diameter) tremble in the wind with such sensitivity that they seem to be able to catch even the slightest movement of air. Outwardly, anemones are a bit like poppies, but they have nothing more to do with them.

Anemones: how to plant in open ground

For anemones planting and care in open field are not particularly complex. It happens in the spring. If the flower is propagated by rhizomes, then they are divided before active sap flow begins. First, they note when the buds of the new season hatch in the flowerbed, then they begin to divide the rhizomes. When deciding when to plant anemones - in autumn or spring, it is worth considering that if you perform the same operation in the fall (in September), then the number of seedlings that have taken root in a new place will be much lower than during a spring transplant. Therefore, this type of reproduction is not popular.

Important! The division of rhizomes is carried out in anemones older than 4 years, not earlier.

Tubers can be bought at the store. Every year, more and more interesting shades appear on sale that can become a true decoration of any flower bed. When choosing planting material, you need to pay attention to the size of the tubers. The bigger the better. If the nodule is too small, it means that it did not have enough nutrition in the previous year. It is unlikely that such a plant will be able to bloom in the first year, and even if this happens, the flower will be small.

The optimal time for planting tuberous anemone is the beginning of April. If spring is late in the region, then they are first planted in pots, and after forcing the shoots into a flower bed, the flower is transplanted after the threat of frost return has passed by 100% (in May).

Preparing the soil and planting material for planting

Anemone cultivars (except for the forest one) are very demanding on looseness and soil fertility. Only the forest anemone blooms beautifully and breeds on rather poor and sandy soils, but such Spartan conditions are not suitable for the rest. Garden flowers prefer to grow in light soils rich in nutrients.

Planting anemones

As for the acid-base indicator, then:

• pH< 5 предпочитают апеннинская, корончатая и кавказская ветреницы;
• pH=5-8 is suitable for all other varieties.

Canadian and fork anemones are demanding on soil structure, which need peaty or sandy soils that freely pass water through themselves without stagnation. If the land on the site is too heavy, then when digging, peat, sand, vermiculite are added to it.

Tuberous rhizomes need to provide liming of the soil, achieving an increase in soil acidity to a pH of 7-8. They bring into the ground before planting a large number of wood ash, which continues to be added a little over the course of the year.

If the planting material belongs to hybrid varieties, then all of them are very demanding on the amount of organic fertilizers applied to the soil. The pH indicator is not so important for them, but the amount of humus or rotted manure introduced into the ground since autumn.

When preparing for planting, it is important to remember that all varieties of anemones, without exception, are extremely negative about transplanting. A sensitive root system after digging up a plant is very difficult to take root in a new place.

There are also ephemeroids that appear only in spring. They wake up quickly, drive out their flower stalks, delight beautiful flowers, and by June they completely wither and disappear. These flowers are transplanted in the summer. It is necessary to mark the place where this anemone grew, and when its ground part completely fades, dig out a piece of rhizome with a kidney and transplant it to another flower bed. Moreover, it is not necessary to dig deep, just 2-5 cm is enough.

Important! The first 2 days after transplantation, it is not necessary to water the anemone, so as not to cause rotting of the roots.

All varieties of anemones, except for hybrids, are easily propagated by seeds. Flowers are bisexual, and after withering they form a box with seeds that can be sown next year for seedlings or immediately into the ground. Moreover, stratification several times increases the chances of friendly seedlings. The term of their appearance is 2-3 weeks.

If the planting material is tubers, then they are soaked for a day before planting, but not in a container with water. You will need a damp cloth and a container with a lid. In damp cloth nodules are wrapped, and after a day they can be planted in a flower bed.

Anemone: planting and care

The recommended planting and growing scheme for most varieties of anemones is 15x15 cm. This is quite enough so that the plants do not drown out each other. At the same time, after 2-3 years, quite enough planting material is formed around the mother bushes so that you can dig up rhizomes or young nodules and plant them on personal plot.

anemone tubers

When planting, it should be noted that in the place of constant growth of the anemone, access to water is needed. If there is too little natural precipitation in summer and spring, then regular watering will be required. And use for these purposes tap water highly undesirable. It is best to keep a barrel nearby, in which the water will collect naturally, and also settle after filling from the water supply. You will have to water the bushes until they completely wither.

Top dressing is applied for the first time after the appearance of the first green leaves. Nitrogen-containing preparations are optimally suited. If you are not willing or able to use chemical fertilizers, then it is quite possible to get by with a quail mullein, which is mixed with ash and sprinkled under the bushes several times a season.

When forming buds, the introduction of a complex mineral fertilizer is recommended. This allows you to increase the number of flowers and the duration of flowering. In autumn, if it is not planned to dig up roots or tubers, then any fertilizer without nitrogen is applied, for example, potassium monophosphate.

Note! Since the root system of anemones is superficial, you should not use hoes for weeding. Remove weeds near the flowers will have to be done manually. In order not to do this too often, mono use mulch, which is suitable for peat, humus, chopped grass and tree foliage.

Anemone care after flowering

If the region of growth is warm enough, then after the disappearance of the ground part of anemones, they do not need any additional care. But mulching will solve several problems at once:

• Get rid of weeds that are difficult to overcome such an obstacle.
• Avoid drying out the soil too quickly in hot climates.
• Add additional nutrients to the soil that are easily absorbed by all types of plants.
• Prevent freezing of the root part in winter time of the year.

For your information! The most important time for anemones is flowering. When the buds are laid, then you need to take care of the flower bed and water it every day, or even 2 times a day: at sunset and at sunrise.

Do I need to dig up anemones for the winter or not

Varieties of anemones, which completely stop growing in the summer, need to provide a rest mode. To do this, they are dug up in July-August and stored in a dry, ventilated room at a temperature of about 20 ° C. Planting material should dry well. Already in autumn, it is sprinkled with wet sand and stored in the basement, where it is maintained. temperature regime around 4°C.

Whether or not to dig up anemones for the winter depends on how cold the winter is in the area. With good shelter with spruce branches or mulch, the plants will not die even in a 20-degree frost, but they may not survive a tougher winter. When digging, planting material should be sorted immediately. All broken and damaged parts are removed. To avoid the spread of mold or fungi, it is recommended to wash the rhizomes and tubers in a weak solution of manganese or fungicide. After that, they are laid out in the shade to dry.

Planting and caring for anemones in the open field in the Moscow region, Siberia, the Urals

Where summers are short, and winters “please” with frosts stronger than 30 ° C, all varieties of anemones need to be dug up for the winter. Store rhizomes and tubers in cellars with a constant temperature of about 4 ° C in boxes with sand. It is enough to visit them once a month to slightly moisten the sand.

Landing is carried out when warm weather is established without the risk of frost returning. After the ground part of the plant has completely withered, its root part is dug up to save in the winter. Or you can collect the seeds, and sow seedlings in the spring. The digging method is preferable, since seedlings are not always happy with flowering in the first year.

If anemones are planted in the south, choosing a place for them in partial shade, then in the northern regions, on the contrary, it is worth choosing a sunny flower bed, where there will be enough light for the formation of buds and abundant flowering.

Among the much more capricious spring flowers, anemones compare favorably in that they do not require any special care. Periodic feeding and watering - that's all. From time to time (every 2-3 years) it will be necessary to plant young growth, that is, investments in the purchase of new varieties quickly pay off.

Spring in flower shops tubers of the crown anemone, considered the queen among spring flowers, are sold. Its flowers are very similar to poppies. I heard a lot that it’s impossible to germinate these tubers, and I myself once had a sad experience with anemones.

Sprouting anemone tubers

It turns out that anemone tubers must be soaked before planting, and the tubers themselves cannot be lowered into water: they absorb a lot of water, just like a sponge, and then rot.

Pour warm water in a saucer, add a drop of epin or zircon. You can use biological stimulants, for example, aloe juice, as well as any other root formation stimulants, for example, Ribav-Extra. Soak a cloth in this solution, wring it out a little (water should not flow from the cloth). Wrap the anemone tubers in this damp cloth and place in a plastic bag. In this state, anemone tubers should be no more than 5-6 hours.

While the anemone tubers are soaking, take a shallow dish, pour some soil, mix with sand (you can even use one sand). The soil mixture for sprouting anemones should be light, permeable. Lightly moisten the ground and lay the soaked anemone tubers directly on the surface. After that, cover the container with anemone tubers with glass or put in a plastic bag and place in a cool place. Anemone tubers need to be checked periodically, the earth should not dry out, keep it moist.

After about ten days, roots and growth points appear on the anemone tubers. Now you can already see which side you need to plant the anemone tubers. If a small sprout has hatched on a tuber, then this tuber can already be planted in a separate pot for germination. If there is no growing point, continue to slightly moisten the soil, and keep the tubers in a cool place. With this method of germination, all anemone tubers usually germinate, unless they have rotted, of course. In pots, germinated anemone tubers are planted with a sprout up to two tuber heights.

Landing anemone

After the anemone tubers are planted in pots for growing, it is desirable that the room temperature does not exceed +12 0 C, otherwise the anemone sprouts will be very frail due to the high temperature in the room. However, not only anemones, but also others garden flowers lower temperatures are beneficial. If the temperature is higher, then the anemone tubers may rot. When the anemones take root and give full-fledged sprouts, then they are not afraid of an increase in temperature.

When the temperature outside is equal to the temperature of the room, anemones can be safely transplanted into the garden. It would be nice to shade them in the first days, so that the spring sun does not burn the tender leaves.

Anemone tubers can be planted outdoors immediately after soaking. When planting in open ground, observe the depth of planting anemone tubers - it should not exceed 5 cm or two anemone tuber heights.

Anemone Care

Anemones grow well in sunny places, but even in partial shade in the vicinity of hosta, geyhera, their flowering is no worse. The only thing the anemone does not put up with is acidic soil, fresh manure, low areas in which water accumulates. All of these risk factors will cause anemone root rot.

Anemones grow well in light, loose, nutrient soil with a neutral or alkaline reaction. To increase the pH of the soil, lime, dolomite flour can be added to the soil during autumn digging. If the soil on the site is heavy, loam - add sand, peat, compost or humus to the planting site.

Crown anemones easily tolerate a lack of moisture in the soil. It is possible and necessary to water anemones only during the period of growth and budding, if the weather is hot and dry, there is no rain at all. During precipitation, additional watering is not required for anemones.

Anemones are responsive to fertilizing with complex fertilizers, especially during the budding period. Anemones are practically not affected by diseases and pests.

At proper care daughter nodules are formed on the tuber, they are separated during digging and used for further reproduction of the anemone. Anemones also reproduce by seeds, but they bloom only after 2-3 years. If you decide to propagate anemones from seeds, then collect seeds only from brightly colored flowers, because anemones grown from seeds have a paler color of flowers.

Preparing for winter, storing anemone tubers

Crown anemone is too southern a plant for our harsh winters, its tubers can freeze even under cover.

Once the anemone leaves and stems are dry, carefully dig out the tubers. They can be stored dry in paper bags or cotton bags in a substrate of sawdust, sand and peat until autumn at +20 0 C, from autumn to spring, anemone tubers should be stored at a positive temperature up to +5 +6 0 C. Paper or cloth should not the tubers will be allowed to suffocate, and a mixture of sawdust, sand and peat will prevent the tubers from drying out.

But if you could not find the place where the anemones were planted (after all, there are different situations), do not despair: knowing the approximate landing site of the anemone, try to cover it with a dry mixture of sawdust, peat, sand, and cover it all with a waterproof film or other improvised means on top. The main thing is that autumn precipitation and spring flood waters do not fall under the shelter (well, this is rather a fallback). In the spring, a small greenhouse can be made at this place so that the anemones rise as soon as possible. If you are lucky, and the anemone tubers do not freeze in winter, then the next year you can see the anemone bloom again in the fall.

But if you want, you can make an anemone forcing at home and get gorgeous blooms in the winter.

Image copyright flickr.com: ZenZer0Zer0, Beppenob (sometimes - a volte), ajadawn, macgibbs61, Brooklyn Botanic Garden, jam343, cilla64

Japanese anemone (autumn anemone, sleep-grass, backache, anemone)- spectacular perennial shrub The Ranunculaceae family is native to Japan, China and the USA, with about 150 species. The special charm of anemones is given by large leaves in the form of dissected feathers, rich color and petals of buds, fluttering even with a slight breath of wind. The height of the plant, depending on the variety, varies from 70 to 140 cm, and the flowering period lasts from mid-summer to mid-October, pleasing the eye of the grower, and allowing you to use the anemone in picturesque mixborders and flower beds with roses, gladioli, geraniums, hosta and hydrangea.

• "Prinz Heinrich" - tall shrub with large basal beautiful leaves. In one inflorescence collected 15 flowers of bright red color. Flowering of this variety begins in late summer or early autumn.
• "September Charm" - a plant up to 130 cm high with large trifoliate serrated leaves. graceful flowers Pink colour 8 cm in diameter bloom and delight with their beauty from August to September.
• Whirl Wind - unpretentious variety with decorative basal leaves of a gear form. Plant height from 80 to 100 cm, white flowers with light yellow stamens, collected in inflorescences of 15 pieces. Flowering lasts from August to September.
• "Konigin Charlotte" is a 1 m high perennial with three-lobed leaves. The flowers are double, 8 cm in diameter, light pink.
• "Pamina" - an early flowering variety (July-August) with large double cup-shaped flowers of dark pink, almost burgundy color. Plants are quite compact (up to 90 cm) and are great for small gardens.
• "Profusion" - a plant with semi-double flowers rare for autumn anemone dark purplish red. Reaches a height of 90-120 cm, blooms from August to October.
• 'Honorine Jobert' is a shrub with white flowers that are pinkish on the underside. The flowers consist of 6-9 sepals, the plant reaches a height of 90-120 cm. It blooms from August to October.

Place

Anemone prefers light, fertile, loose and well-drained soil with a pH value of 7.2-7.7. This Japanese anemone thrives in a draught-free location with a low ground water, so do not plant it in the lowlands and near drains. Anemone is difficult to accept sunbathing throughout the day, so for a plentiful and lush flowering you will have to shade it a bit.

Landing

Pour the anemone seedling with settled water at room temperature so that after 20-30 minutes you can easily get it out of the pot. Choose a suitable place for anemones, considering that:

• Forest varieties prefer shade, and a place on the north side of the garden or under the crowns of trees is suitable for them so that the flower does not suffer from excess sunlight.
• Varieties of anemones that are accustomed to temperate climate planted in the east side of the garden.
• In the southern part of the garden, it is better to plant heat-loving flower varieties.

WITH soil mixture not everything is simple either, because some anemones prefer alkaline soil - owners of areas with clay soil will have to deacidify it. To do this, use ash or dolomite flour at the rate of 450-550 g / sq.m. "Design" the soil mixture yourself, taking soddy soil, coarse sand and expanded clay in a ratio of 2: 2: 1: 0.5, or use the ready-to-use PETER PEAT "Garden Earth" primer of the HOBBY line. But there are anemone varieties that grow well only in neutral or slightly acidic soil - it’s good for them. suitable soil PETER PEAT "For coniferous plants" of the HOBBY line, mixed with expanded clay PETER PEAT of the VITA line and coarse sand (4:1:1). If you have chosen a home-made version of the soil mixture, add ash (300 g / sq. M), neutralized PETER PEAT AGRO line peat (300 g / sq. M) and PETER PEAT “NPK 15-15-15” complex mineral fertilizer MINERAL line.

At the end of April - beginning of May, dig a hole 45 cm deep and Ø40 cm deep on the site, put a drainage layer of fine gravel or gravel 15 cm thick on the bottom. Remove the seedling from the pot, lower it into the hole to upper layer basal coma coincided with the ground level (the root neck should be above the ground) and fill it with soil without tamping it. Spill with water, wait until the soil sags and sprinkle again on the sides, trying not to disturb the root ball. The anemone grows quite quickly, so the distance between neighboring plants should not be less than 20-25 cm. Try to avoid planting under mature trees - the anemone will receive an excess of moisture, a lack of light and will not bloom. Mulch your plantations with dry sawdust or peat neutralized by PETER PEAT of the AGRO line to a radius of 0.4 m for a thickness of 3-4 cm.

Care

The main care for the anemone is to protect against weeds, loosening and soil under the bushes of the plant or humus.

Watering

Anemone loves moisture, but does not tolerate waterlogging: water it 2 times a week, 8 liters per bush, so that the earth is moist to a depth of 5-6 cm. In hot weather and during the flowering period, increase watering.

loosening

It is necessary to loosen the soil around the anemone bush carefully, because. its fragile root system lies superficially. Therefore, the weeds are not weeded out, but pulled out by hand.

top dressing

Top dressing 1 (before planting in the ground), options:

• aqueous solution of mullein (1:10);
• 2-year compost (4 kg/sq.m.);

Top dressing 2 (during flowering and every 2 weeks), options:

• liquid humic fertilizer PETER PEAT "Live force: for flower crops" (see the dosage on the package);
• aqueous solution of bird droppings.

Top dressing 3 (autumn, before winter), options:

• 8-10 g of nitrogen + 15-20 g of phosphorus + 10-15 g of potash fertilizer;
• complex mineral fertilizer PETER PEAT "NPK 15-15-15" of the MINERAL line.

pruning

After flowering, shorten the anemone stems to the ground without touching the basal leaves - they are cut only in the spring, before the start of the new season.

Reproduction by seeds

Germination seed material anemones is low, only 5-20%, because the embryo in its seeds is small and poorly developed. As a result, the plant develops slowly, and only for 2-3 years you can admire its flowering. The technique of growing anemones from seeds is slightly confused, and the main thing in it is to sow only fresh seeds collected immediately after flowering:

• in a planting container with soil PETER PEAT "For seedlings" of the HOBBY line and adding a quarter of the volume of sand, deepen the seeds by 0.3-0.5 cm, sprinkle with soil on top, pour settled water at room temperature with a spray bottle and cover with an opaque film.
• As soon as the seeds swell, send the container to the refrigerator with a temperature of + 2-4 ° C for 3 months.
• Pour a little more soil on top (2-3 cm) and send the container with the film outside: sprinkle it with sawdust or straw and, when the snow falls, make a slide out of it over the container.
• In mid-April, hardened and germinated sprouts can be planted in open ground, in case of return frosts, keeping covering material at hand.

But in order to save yourself from all these troubles, it is better to plant the seeds in the fall in boxes with loose soil and immediately bury them in the yard, covering them with cut sawdust or branches. During the winter, they will undergo natural freezing, and in the spring you will dig them up and plant them.

Propagation by cuttings

In March, dig up an adult anemone bush, cut off at the root neck and use water to free the roots from the ground. Cut cuttings 5-6 cm long and immerse them for 6 hours in a root formation stimulator, for example, Epin or PETER PEAT liquid humic fertilizer. Then place the cuttings in pots 12x25 cm, filled with a peat-soil mixture with the addition of loam and sand, or simply with PETER PEAT "For seedlings" soil of the HOBBY line (the cuttings are buried to their full length so that their tops are on the surface of the soil). When planting cuttings, the soil should be slightly compacted, and sprinkled with sand on top to a thickness of 0.5-0.8 cm. Place the pots in a greenhouse, cover not clear glass/ film and rarely water, preventing the roots from rotting. As soon as stalks with leaves appear, remove the film, and increase watering - just at this time adventitious roots are formed. Once a week, feed young plantings with liquid humic fertilizer PETER PEAT "Living Force: Healthy Seedlings" and once a quarter - complex mineral fertilizer PETER PEAT "NPK 15-15-15" of the MINERAL line. The following year, the anemone can be planted in open ground.

Reproduction by division of roots

In early April, carefully dig out an adult anemone bush (4-5 years old), separate the roots and cut them into pieces of 5 cm with a mandatory bud (preferably 2-3) on each. Deepen them horizontally by 5-7 cm in open ground, with the kidneys up. Water and care like an adult bush, and in 2-3 years you will be able to admire a new anemone bush.

Reproduction by tubers

Some varieties of anemones have a tuberous root system, and their reproduction has a number of features:

• After the end of flowering in the fall, cut off the leaves and stems of the plants “under the stump”, dig up the tubers and place them in pots. Pots should be stored until spring in a room with a temperature of + 2-4 ° C, and before planting in the spring, a month in advance - in a warmer room with a temperature of + 12 ° C.
• About 2 weeks before planting in open ground, put anemone tubers in shallow plates filled with water and a root growth stimulator - liquid humic fertilizer PETER PEAT "Living Force: For Soaking Seeds", and wrap them with gauze so that the entire volume of the tuber is saturated with this feeding for 6 hours.
• Next, you need to place the tubers in a planting container with a soil mixture consisting of earth, peat and sand (2: 1: 1), cover it with transparent glass and maintain moderate soil moisture. After 10-12 days, the tubers will release new roots and small seedlings.
• Prepare the soil in open ground (see the "Planting" subsection) and plant the tubers in pre-dug holes. Water your plants generously.
• In the first week after planting, the anemone should be in partial shade, because. the sun burns the young leaves.

Shelter for the winter

For the winter in early November, mulch the anemone with a layer of dry foliage or peat neutralized by PETER PEAT of the AGRO line 10 cm thick, and additionally cover the plant on top of it with spruce branches or branches of deciduous trees. This is especially needed hybrid varieties anemones.

Some gardeners dig up anemones along with rhizomes and store them in a dark, cool, not damp room in a large container with appropriate soil, after cutting off the leaves and basal stems. True, it must be borne in mind that the anemone does not tolerate transplantation, especially adult plants, and in this case, most likely, it will be delayed with flowering.

Diseases and pests

In the fight against fungi, the addition of a small amount helps sea ​​salt or sea sand into the soil where anemones are grown .