Making a compost pit. Compost is the best manure substitute: we prepare fertilizer ourselves

Any land plot needs periodic fertilizer. And what could be better than high-quality compost? Buying it and then bringing it to the site is a long and expensive task. Why not produce this valuable fertilizer directly on your own land, because all conditions have been created for this? During the warm season, a lot of organic and plant waste accumulates on the site, which must be disposed of. It turns out that it is possible to combine the cleaning of the site from waste, and the production of compost from them. Let's take a look at how a compost pit can be built with your own hands, what is needed for this, and how to avoid elementary mistakes in the production of fertilizers.

The compost pit on the land plot is designed for laying all kinds of plant and organic residues, waste, and surpluses of various products. Laid in layers, these components gradually decompose, turning into a high-quality fertilizer. The question arises: how to build a compost pit with your own hands so that fertilizer is obtained in it during the season? To do this, you need to make some efforts to help the compost ripen faster.

With proper care, you can get ready-made compost in 3 months. If the pit is not given special attention, then the process of waste decomposition will continue for about two years.

Compost bin requirements

For normal and rapid maturation of compost, it needs heat, the presence of oxygen and moisture. How to make a compost pit correctly so that its contents turn into high-quality fertilizer, and the heap itself does not harm plantings and people on the site? To do this, you should familiarize yourself with some of the requirements for such structures:

• The compost heap should mostly rise above the soil level. Thanks to this, the pile warms up better, the convenience of its loosening and watering is ensured. It is recommended to deepen the pit by about 50 cm, leaving barriers above the soil surface of about 1 m. The ideal width of the structure is 1.5 m, and its length is 2 m;
• If there is a source of drinking water on the site, for example, a well, a well or a spring, then the distance from it to the pit should not be less than 25 m;
• It is advisable to place the pit in a place that will be removed from the house or gazebo. In this case, the unpleasant smell that may come from the compost heap will not annoy the site owners;
• It is desirable to have a pit in partial shade so that it is not constantly in the sun. This will help it dry out.
• How to make a compost pit so that runoff from it does not fall through the soil into a source of clean water? To do this, if the site has a slope, it is enough to place the pit below the source;
• It is impossible to place a hole under fruit trees, as this can lead to their death;
• The dimensions of the pit are selected taking into account the amount of plant debris and waste that is available in the country and will be in the pit for two years;
• Do-it-yourself options for making a compost pit should take into account that it is recommended to choose the height of the fences so that it is convenient to loosen and collect compost.

Tip: The bottom of the pit should not be covered with slate, metal, rubber or film. They will not allow moisture to rise from the soil upwards, as a result of which the compost will constantly dry out. The bottom must certainly be earthen. But the walls can be closed with any material.

What can and cannot be thrown into the compost pit

A self-made compost pit will justify its purpose if the following types of waste are laid in it:

• leaves, bark, needles, chopped branches and roots;
• weeded and mowed weeds, grass;
• bird droppings and rotted two-year manure;
• vegetables, fruits and berries, including cleaning;
• remnants of coffee, tea;
• hay, sawdust, shavings, straw;
• ash from burning wood;
• paper, paper bags, cardboard, napkins.

Tip: If a thick layer of fresh grass is laid in the pit, then the process of its decomposition can be delayed for six months or a year. In this case, cover the grass with soil.

Do not lay in the pit:

• inorganic products that do not decompose. These are rubber, plastic bags, plastic, metal, synthetic products;
• faeces of pets, as they may contain helminth eggs;
• bones;
• the tops of tomatoes and potatoes, as it is often infected with late blight;
• plants treated with chemicals;
• ripe weed seeds;
• thick branches that rot for a long time.

Possible manufacturing options

A compost heap with your own hands can be made in several ways. We list them all, indicating the features of each of them.

The usual heap in which waste is added

• Choose a place on the site where the compost heap will be located;
• As various wastes accumulate, they are laid in the selected place. In this case, it is desirable to lay organic matter in layers. Alternate food waste with grass and manure;
• When the height of the heap reaches 1 meter, make several recesses in it, into which pour special compost liquid. This will speed up the maturation of the compost;
• With regular loosening and watering, the compost will ripen after 3 months.

This is ideal for those who want to get by with minimal effort, but still get some compost. It is desirable to form several such piles, each of which will rot gradually.

simple pit

A simple device for a compost pit in the country with your own hands will be provided by an ordinary pit dug in a selected place:

• The depth of the pit should be small, which will provide easier care for its contents. It is better to make it wider;
• Branches, hay, tree bark are laid at the bottom of the pit;
• Next come layers of food and plant waste;
• Since the temperature in the pit is not very high, it is advisable to cover it with a film.

This is the least successful way to equip a compost pit. To mix its contents, more effort will be required, and the pit will warm up less. The advantages of such a pit are its small area and simplicity of the device.

Box made of wood or other material

How to make a compost pit with your own hands so that it is convenient and inexpensive? Use boards, bars, slate, sheets of metal, etc. for this.

The order of arrangement will be as follows:

• On the soil, the top layer of soil about 40 cm thick is removed;
• Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the pit;
• A fence is installed around the pit. It can be wooden (boards, pallets, shields, bars) or some other. It is allowed to use any material: flat or corrugated slate, polycarbonate, metal sheets;
• The height of the fence should not exceed 1 m. This is necessary for the convenience of mixing the compost;
• From above, such a structure is covered with plywood or film.

This design allows the compost to warm up well, therefore it is considered optimal for use on land.

There is an original version of the wooden box. Its lower edges do not reach the soil surface by 25-30 cm. That is, boards or other material are attached at a certain distance from the ground. In the lower part of such a box, the compost matures faster, as it was laid earlier. As it matures, the compost is picked up and the pile settles down. Such a pile practically does not need to be loosened. There is always an opportunity to get some amount of ready-made compost.

concrete pit

If you decide to build a durable structure that will last for decades, then use the advice on how to make a compost heap in a concrete pit.

The building is set up like this:

• a plot is marked for future construction (approximately 2x3 meters);
• soil is selected at 60-80 cm;
• a formwork about 10 cm thick is being built along the perimeter of the future building;
• concrete mortar is mixed;
• concrete is poured into the formwork;
• after the concrete has hardened, the formwork is removed;
• waste is laid in layers in a concrete pit;
• from above, the pit is covered with wooden shields or covered with a film.

This is the most costly way to build a compost pit in terms of effort and investment. Such a structure should be placed where the heap will definitely not create any difficulties, since it will be impossible to move it to another place.

Tip: It is recommended to divide the compost facility into at least 2 sections. While you will put fresh waste collected in the current season into one of them, last year's compost will decompose in the second section.

It should also be noted that there are options for organizing a compost pit from a barrel or special plastic containers for compost, but additionally, the use of drugs that accelerate the processing of waste, or the addition of Californian worms, will be required.

How to properly operate a compost pit

We figured out how to build a compost pit with your own hands using various schemes. It remains to highlight the question of how to properly care for the compost pit during the season. It is enough to perform the following simple manipulations:

1. Loosen the compost periodically with a pitchfork. In this case, access of oxygen into the heap will be ensured. In addition, the waste will be mixed with each other, which will accelerate their decomposition.
2. Water the pile at least occasionally, and more often during the dry season. Thus, the contents of the pit will be moistened and rot better. Overdried compost almost completely stops decomposing.
3. It is recommended to cover the top of the compost with a dark film. This will create a greenhouse effect inside the heap, raising its temperature. The film will retain moisture inside and prevent the germination of weeds. In a covered pile, the compost will mature in 3-4 months. If you do not cover it, the ripening process will stretch for a whole year.
4. Periodically plant in a pile of California worms, which loosen the contents of the pile and partially process it.
5. If possible, add preparations to the contents of the compost heap that speed up the decomposition process. For example, Compostin, Baikal EM-1, Embionic, Compostar, Sanex EcoCompost, Bioforce Compost and others.

A properly constructed compost pit, which is regularly maintained, is able to provide site owners with high-quality and practically free fertilizer in a very short time.

How can a compost pit be made with your own hands - the photo manufacturing options will be clearly demonstrated.

The purpose of a compost pit is to turn household waste into an excellent fertilizer for the soil. That is why compost pits are widely used by summer residents and gardeners: a compost pit solves the problem of organic waste disposal and at the same time improves crop yields.

In order to make a compost pit in the country, you first need to choose the right location:

Do not place the pit in a sunny place, avoid direct sunlight and overdrying;

It is better to equip the pit on a flat surface or hill so that water does not linger in it in rainy weather.

It is quite difficult to say how to make a compost pit correctly, because there are many different device options and each of them has certain advantages.

The simplest compost pit in the country is not even a pit, but a heap. Many summer residents do not bother building any structures, but simply dump the source material into a pile, where the compost ripening process takes place. Often such a pile is covered with a film and enriched with special preparations - bioactivators.

In order to understand how to arrange a compost pit in the country, you need to figure out how the compost ripens. Dry leaves, tree branches, weeds, earth and manure are the main elements for compost formation. All these components impregnate each other, decompose, rot under the influence of air and moisture, and as a result, an excellent fertilizer is obtained.

This whole process takes about two years, which is why the most common design of the compost pit has become a two-section. A two-section compost pit has two compartments. The first compartment is filled with components, left to mature or actively used after two years, and the second is regularly replenished with fresh waste.

Materials for the compost pit

Only decomposing substances are suitable for creating fertilizer, such as:

Any vegetables and fruits, fresh and boiled;

Tea, coffee, compote;

Grass, hay, leaves, weeds;

Tree bark, branches, roots;

wood ash;

Paper products;

wood waste;

Very often, the remains of cooked food are thrown into the compost pit, which is quite acceptable if all the components of the dish are able to be processed, rot, and decompose.

Do not use objects made of plastic, rubber, bone, iron, artificial fabrics for compost.

Making an open compost pit

To arrange such a pit, it is enough to do a few simple operations: dig a hole of the required size (depending on the expected amount of compost) and a depth of about 50 cm. The walls can be lined with roofing material, linoleum or slate. Put branches, foliage, weeds and other plant components at the bottom of the pit, and pour waste on top. All this is covered with grass or a tarpaulin.

Making a closed compost pit

Such a pit is the most complex structure of all possible, as it requires some building skills.

First you need to mark up the future structure and remove the top layer of soil 25 cm thick over the entire area.

Then a hole is dug up to a depth of 50 cm, along the perimeter of which a wooden frame is made. The height of the box should not exceed one meter, otherwise it will be very difficult to get the finished compost. The frame can be mounted on a columnar foundation for strength, but you can not do this. Next, the frame is sheathed with boards. The beam used for the frame should preferably be treated with something to prevent rotting, and the walls of the box themselves should be sheathed with linoleum or rolled roofing material.

From above, the structure must be equipped with a lid with sufficiently large slots to improve air circulation in the box.

You can use the remains of old buildings as walls of the compost pit: foundations and walls.

If you are not satisfied with a do-it-yourself compost pit, you can buy a ready-made composter - a plastic container. The best maturation of the compost in it is achieved by adding preparations for the decomposition of organic matter.

By building such a simple device on your site, you can secure a rich harvest without any financial costs for fertilizers.

Every gardener knows how important it is to fertilize the soil in the garden and in the garden in time and with high quality in order to get a good harvest as a result. You can buy ready-made compost, spending rather large sums on it, almost equal to the cost of the crop itself, or you can make it yourself without much effort.

A do-it-yourself compost pit, the options of which will be discussed in this publication, will help not only to produce high-quality fertilizers, saving on their purchase, but also to functionally use waste from plant products. There are several approaches to its creation, but first, a few words about the purpose and importance of this agrotechnical structure.

The purpose and general principles of creating a compost pit

What are compost pits for?

At least some cultivated plants are necessarily planted on each land plot, and without top dressing they will eventually lose their vitality, wither and die, as the soil around them is depleted.

Therefore, whether it is a tree, shrub or annual vegetable crops, the soil for them must be fertilized periodically. Today in specialized stores there are a large number of fertilizers made on a different basis, but not all of them are equally useful for plants and unsafe for humans. Some producers are engaged in the manufacture of compost, however, and they are not always conscientious. To speed up the maturation of humus, some of these "agrochemists" use not biological, but chemical means that quickly decompose various organic substances, and it is simply impossible to check how the processing took place for an ignorant person who does not have special knowledge. Therefore, having run into such a product, you can not only not achieve an increase in the yield of a vegetable garden or orchard, but, on the contrary, spoil the soil to such an extent that it will take many years to restore it.

That is why the best option is to make organic fertilizers on your own, especially since almost all the necessary components can always be found literally under your feet or in the kitchen after cooking.

Any territory is periodically put in order, and in the process of cleaning, heaps of grass and fallen leaves are collected, mixed with fallen fruits, as well as branches after cutting trees and bushes - all this is perfect for making compost.

If the loaded compost pit is not touched, then the maturation of the compost will take quite a long time. And if special biological solutions containing live bacteria are added to it, fertilizer can be obtained in 3-4 months. However, in order for the “ripening” process inside the compost pits and containers to proceed evenly, the mass must be periodically mixed and drugs added to it that accelerate the processes of natural decomposition of organic matter.

Requirements for the arrangement of a compost pit

In order for the compost pit to function properly, its design must provide all the necessary conditions for the development and active life of bacteria that will process plant waste.

The conditions necessary for the normal functioning of bacteria include the following factors:

• The presence of free access of oxygen to the container (pit), so that the plant waste placed in it does not rot, emitting unpleasant odors, but is broken down under the influence of earthworms and beneficial bacteria.
• Special temperature regime
• Constant high humidity.

High-quality fertilizer can only be obtained if all these conditions are met, and for this you need to properly build or assemble a compost bin from ready-made materials.

The requirements that must be observed in the construction of this useful structure can be listed as follows:

• The container must have holes in its walls for free access of air, which means that the best option would be to install it above the soil level.
• For the convenience of extracting the finished compost from the container, the front or side wall is best made in the form of a door, or assembled from removable boards.
• If the compost pit is arranged in a pit dug in the ground, then it should not be buried more than 500 mm. The mass laid in such a pit must be stirred quite often, adding a solution with live bacteria to it.
• A mobile compost bin looks like a very attractive option - if it has at least some aesthetic appearance, it can be installed anywhere on the site. The only thing to consider is that it should not be constantly in the sun. Therefore, it is best to find a place for the container in partial shade under the trees. In addition, if desired, it can be decorated with a removable

• The size of the compost bin or pit depends on how much fertilizer is expected to be made for the needs of the site. But it is best that its dimensions do not exceed 1000 × 2000 mm. If the area is large, and a lot of humus will be needed, then it is recommended to make several small containers with an approximate size of 800 × 1000 mm.
• You should not make the container box too high - it should have a height that will make it easy to loosen the mass, and this must be done quite often. Therefore, it is most reasonable to foresee the height depending on the growth of the gardener.
• Whatever material the compost bin is made of, its bottom should not be closed - it always remains earthen. Thus, moisture will be maintained in the box, which will come from the soil. In addition, free movement will be provided for earthworms, which are also actively involved in the production of humus.

What kind of waste can be put in a compost bin?

Compost will be of high quality and useful for plants only if it is made from environmentally friendly plant products. Therefore, you need to know what can be put in a container, and what is absolutely impossible.

• Tree branches (but they are placed only on the bottom of the composter - this will be a kind of drainage layer).
• Fallen leaves, needles, roots, bark and shredded tree branches.
• Mowed or weeded grass.
• Cleaning from vegetables, fruits and berries, as well as spoiled fruits.
• Chicken manure, aged two-year rotted manure.
• Ash and charcoal left after burning wood.
• Sawdust, straw, hay, shavings and other small wood waste.
• Leftover tea and coffee.
• Paper bags, corrugated cardboard, used napkins and paper (of course, in the absence of printing ink or stationery glue on paper waste).
• Sometimes the lower branch drainage layer wakes up with lime for the speedy splitting of wood.

All vegetable waste, for example, layers of freshly cut grass, must be sprinkled with a layer of garden soil, since decomposition will be slower without it.

It is also very important to know what should never be put in compost, otherwise you can not help, but harm the plants.

Prices for garden containers

garden container

So, inorganic substances that do not decompose or, decomposing, emit toxic substances that are dangerous not only for plants, but also for humans, cannot be poured into the container. In addition, there are other substances and products that are contraindicated in compost pits. These include:

• Plastic bags, plastic, rubber, metal and synthetic products.
• Plants treated with chemicals.
• Tops from potatoes and tomatoes - it can be infected with late blight.
• Bones from fruit trees and animal bones.
• Feces of pets - they may contain helminths and their eggs.
• Pet hair, as it will take a long time to decompose.
• It is important to ensure that glass does not get into the compost, as when processing the beds, it can seriously injure your hand.
• It is not recommended to lay thick branches in the upper layers - they will decompose for too long.

What are compost pits and how to make them yourself?

Compost pits or containers are made from different materials - it can be wood, metal, smooth or wave slate, metal mesh and polyethylene film or geotextile, polyethylene black bags and more. The design of containers can also be different, but it should function according to the same principle. Next, the designs of various compost pits will be considered, from complex to the simplest options, so the reader will have the opportunity to choose the most suitable for a particular case.

The first option is a ready-made plastic container

To begin with, it is worth considering a ready-made version of the composter, which can be purchased at specialized stores. These are plastic containers made taking into account all the necessary conditions for the production of humus.

Containers of various sizes and shapes have quite affordable prices, which start at 1,300 rubles, and if there is no possibility or desire to make a compost pit on your own, then the best way out is to purchase this agricultural facility already in finished form.

Containers are quite compact products that have a neat and stylish look that will not spoil the landscape design of the site. Moreover, most often the plastic of such composters is colored green, which helps the container to visually “get lost” against the background of the vegetation of the site.

Tanks are sold unassembled, so they can be easily delivered to the installation site even by public transport. Assembly instructions are included with them, and it will not be difficult to mount such a container on your own, since no tools are required for this.

For the convenience of removing ready-made humus from the composter, the design provides a side door that simplifies its operation.

Composters are made of frost-resistant UV-stabilized plastic, which perfectly withstands exposure to ultraviolet radiation, precipitation, wind and temperature changes. The advantage of this design compared to the "classic" compost pit, arranged in the ground, is that it will not become a source of an unpleasant odor, since the aeration system provided in the container does not allow the waste to rot.

The second option is a homemade wooden compost bin.

This version of the compost pit will not be so easy to do with your own hands for those land owners who do not have carpentry tools or do not know how to work with them. However, knowing the dimensions of the blanks, they can be ordered in a carpentry workshop, and assembling the box yourself should no longer be any particular problem, since this process does not require special tools. If the “carpentry tool arsenal” is available, and there is at least a little experience working with it, then the manufacturing process will be simple and fast.

So, for a wooden compost bin, you will need 24 boards 1500 mm long, 25 mm thick and 150 mm wide.

Of the tools you will need a circular saw or a jigsaw, a regular or electric planer, clamps, a tape measure and a simple pencil.

Illustration
	The first step is to make parts for the container. It is advisable to use high-quality durable wood for this purpose, which will be resistant to external natural influences, such as moisture, wind, temperature changes and ultraviolet rays. This is due to the fact that the container will be located permanently on the street. And besides, the wood will be exposed not only from the outside, but also biological - from the inside, since the processes of decomposition of plant waste will actively take place there.
	Boards are sawn and planed from all sides, so that they look neat enough. This is especially important if the container will be located on a site that is clearly visible - probably no one would like the box to spoil the landscape design.
	After the boards are prepared, they are folded together and tightly tightened with clamps on both sides. Further, 100 mm are measured from each of the edges, then another 25 mm is set aside and marked with a pencil - this will be the width of the groove to be cut. The depth of the groove must also be 25 mm.
	Then, cuts are made on the marked boards. To do this, the cutting depth is set on a hand-held circular saw, and in the area marked on the boards, many cuts are made at a distance of 1 ÷ 2 mm from one another. When the wood is broken into small pieces, it is easily removed from the boards with the same saw.
	When the grooves are ready on one side, the boards turn to the opposite side. Markings are also made on it - 100 and then 25 mm are first deposited from the edge. After that, the process of cutting grooves is repeated. The grooves on one side and the other along the width of the boards should be exactly opposite each other - as shown in this illustration.
	The next step is to take two boards with grooves, fold and fasten together with clamps. A line is drawn dividing the boards exactly in half - in this case it is 75 mm from the edge, and the boards are sawn along this markup. These parts will be used to install the lower and upper, that is, the last row of the structure.
	Further, all surfaces of the finished boards, including the cut grooves, must be treated with one of the antiseptic solutions. This tool will prevent putrefactive processes and extend the life of the wood. The antiseptic is applied with a wide brush. It is important to ensure that there are no untreated areas left, otherwise the decomposition of wood may begin from them under the influence of processes occurring inside the container and external natural factors.
	After the wood is completely dry, you can proceed to the assembly of the structure. The container should be installed on bricks, as there should be space for air to enter from below. The bricks are displayed at the site where the compost bin will be installed permanently. The installation site must be relatively flat so that there are no distortions of the container walls during its assembly.
	The assembly begins with the fact that two boards with a groove on only one side are installed on securely laid out bricks on the edge. They are positioned so that the groove is directed upwards.
	Further, perpendicular to them, boards with two oppositely placed grooves are installed, that is, on each side. The bottom groove of the top board should fit into the groove of the bottom board, standing on the bricks. This is well shown in the illustration.
	The next step is to mount boards parallel to the lower structural elements. According to the same system, the entire box is assembled, to the very top. The work goes quite quickly - if necessary, the board installed on top is knocked out by hand or, carefully, with a hammer.
	The last to install are two boards that have grooves on one side only - they, of course, are mounted with cutouts down. The result is a "well" with the necessary distances between the boards, through which oxygen will enter the compost.
	It is not enough to make and install such a box - it is also very important to fill it correctly. The lower layer of the filler is branches (in this design it will be located between the bricks installed under the container). And the thickness of such a layer should reach half the width of the lower wide board, which has grooves on both sides. The branches must be laid tightly enough, as they will act as drainage. Lime 70 ÷ 80 mm is poured on top of the branches, and then waste, then a layer of soil (its thickness should be about 100 mm.). Next again are waste, ash and soil. Then, waste, manure, soil and more waste. At the same time, ash, manure and lime can be periodically interchanged. It should be noted that this is only one of the filling options, since each gardener invents his own “recipes” and uses various components to make compost.

This design is good for everyone, except that it will not be very convenient to get ready-made compost from it. Most often, the option of a compost bin with an installed door or with removable boards is chosen.

In this design, I would like to consider the front side of the container, which is equipped with removable boards installed at an angle to additional corner vertical posts.

To fix them at an angle, on one side of the boards that form the side walls of the container, complex grooves are cut at an angle. To make them the same, the boards are folded together in pairs, fastened with clamps, and then the marked part of the groove is selected with a jigsaw.

The result of the work done will be the container shown in the illustration below. It clearly shows the boards set at an angle and two added vertical posts holding the side walls from the “facade” side.

One more circumstance must be taken into account. This is that untreated and unpainted wood can swell under the influence of moisture, and begin to dry out under the influence of the sun, giving cracks. In this case, it will be very difficult to get the boards out of the grooves. Therefore, I make the grooves in such a way that initially the boards come out very freely, and before assembling the structure, it is recommended to process and paint its elements. In addition, a wooden structure is best installed under a roof or under the crown of trees.

The container can be one- or two-section, open or closed. It is better, of course, to build a two-section version, or put two composters side by side, as they can be used in turn - use ready-made humus from one container while it matures in another. Having emptied the first composter, they switch to using compost from another, and the first is again filled with waste.

If the territory of the site allows you to place the container away from residential buildings, then it can be made open. If the composter is installed near the house or recreation areas, then it is recommended to equip it with a lid.

The third option is to make a compost bin

This method of making a compost bin is so simple that any gardener can do it himself, since the process does not require much effort and the ability to work with complex tools.

To make this version of the container, you will need the following materials:

• Welded metal mesh with cells 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm - 3000 mm long, 700 to 1000 mm wide - this will be the height of the basket. The width of the material is chosen at the request of the master. You can choose a regular steel mesh, but it is better if it has a polymer anti-corrosion coating.
• Thick polyethylene film or black geotextile, 3500 mm long and 750÷1050 mm wide (depending on the planned height of the future basket).
• Stationery clips - 8 ÷ 10 pieces.
• Flexible and durable knitting wire for mesh binding.

From the tools it will be necessary to prepare ordinary scissors and metal shears, pliers and a tape measure.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	The metal mesh is unfolded and leveled. A strip 3000 mm long is measured from it.
	Then the cut strip is folded into a cylinder so that the edges are overlapped by about 200 mm. This connection point along the entire height of the cylinder must be carefully tied with wire or plastic clamps - puffs.
	Further, a polyethylene film or geotextile is spread, the canvas of the desired size is measured and cut off. (The work will go faster if there is such an assistant))).
	In the next step, the cut film or geotextile is rolled up and placed inside the basket. Then, the material is distributed along the walls.
	The top edge of the film is wrapped over the edge of the mesh outward and hooked to the walls of the basket with the help of clerical clips. They will securely fix the canvas and will not allow it to unhook even when mixing the compost.
	That's it - the compost bin is ready. It turns out not at all heavy, so it can be easily transferred to any area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site.
	Further, the resulting container is filled with various waste of plant origin, which is stacked in layers. The first, lowest layer is branches that are sprinkled with soil, then any grass, fallen leaves, waste after cleaning vegetables from the kitchen, etc. Then again comes a layer of soil, and then plant waste. After filling the basket, its contents must be spilled with water, so that it goes to the bottom of the container. After that, a special environmentally friendly product containing bacteria is bred and infused, which contributes to the rapid decomposition of plant products, which will significantly accelerate the maturation of the compost. Getting the compost out of the basket is quite simple - you just need to lift one edge of the container, shovel the finished compost out with a shovel, put it in a garden cart and take it to the fertilized area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site.

Here it is also necessary to clarify the point that if polyethylene film is used for the inner lining of the basket, then it is necessary to cut holes in it for oxygen to enter the processed mass. If it is decided to use geotextile for the compost basket, it will not be necessary to cut it, since it is a “breathable” material, that is, it allows air to pass through well, and also retains moisture, preventing its rapid evaporation.

Fourth option - concreted compost pit

The construction of a concrete structure is a rather laborious work. In addition, if the pit is arranged below the top level of the soil, it turns out to be not quite convenient for removing the finished product. In addition, the construction will cost much more than arranging a wooden version or making a basket. However, if there is a desire to work with concrete and build a capital structure, then you need to know how the work on its construction and maintenance is carried out.

Prices for geotextiles

geotextile

You can build a pit with one or two compartments. If the second option is chosen, then one compartment is intended for ripened humus, and the second for constant replenishment.

Since oxygen can enter such a hole only through the top, the cover for it must be made of mesh.

The bottom of the pit is not concreted or waterproofed, as it must remain earthen so that earthworms have access to plant waste, and also to ensure that the mass is moistened due to soil moisture.

In such a space that does not have aeration, the waste placed in it can begin to rot, so loosening will have to be carried out quite often, providing air access.

Work on the arrangement of a concrete structure consists of the following stages:

• The first step in the markup is to dig a pit in the selected place. In length and width, it can have any size, ranging from 1000 mm or more. Here it must be borne in mind that the internal space of the pit will decrease due to the construction of side walls. The depth of the pit can vary from 500 to 800 mm, but the deeper the pit is, the more difficult it will be to get ready-made humus from there and the more difficult it is to regularly loosen the mass.
• The next step along the walls, to the entire height of the pit, formwork is installed from boards or thick plywood. It is mounted at a distance of 100 ÷ 150 mm from the ground surfaces - this space will be the thickness of the walls.

Before sheathing the formwork frame with boards or plywood, a reinforcing mesh is mounted between it and the soil walls. After that, the formwork sheathing is fixed to the frame.

• Further, it is kneaded from sand, gravel and cement in a ratio of 2: 4: 1. This process is best done in a concrete mixer or in a large container, for example, a bathtub or a spacious garden wheelbarrow is suitable, since it is desirable to pour the solution into the formwork at a time.
• At the next stage, the solution is poured into the formwork, and "bayoneted", that is, it is repeatedly pierced with a pipe or a piece of reinforcement that reaches the bottom - this process is carried out so that air pockets do not form in the concrete. After the formwork is filled, the poured concrete is left to dry and gain strength. It is desirable to carry out demoulding not earlier than in 10-12 days.
• After the mortar has hardened, the walls of the pit must be raised above the ground with the help of brickwork, or by re-building the formwork on top of the finished walls that strengthen the pit, reinforce it and pour it with concrete. The height of the side framing the edges of the pit should be 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• The walls of the pit can also be reinforced with brickwork, but under it, along the perimeter of the bottom of the pit, it will be necessary to pour a strip base with concrete.

If it is decided to decorate the walls with brickwork, then it should not be made solid. It is best if there are holes in it that will allow ground moisture and earthworms to penetrate into the pit.

In such a pit (without air access to its lower part), the waste processing process until the humus is fully ripe will last about two years. And in order to speed it up, you will need to pour into the plant mass a special solution containing live bacteria designed for such conditions.

Fifth option - slate composter

Building a compost pit from slate is a fairly simple and affordable way, especially when the farm has preserved old, seemingly unnecessary roofing material.

It doesn't matter if the sheets are slightly damaged, as air will be only good for the plant mass, especially since slate containers are most often made open. The slate will only serve as walls, preventing the contents from spilling outside the area organized for the composter. To create such a box, you need to do the following work:

• As in previous cases, you first need to decide on the size and design of the container, that is, how many sections it will have. The optimal size of the sides of each of the sections of the two-section version is 800 × 1000 or 1000 × 1000 mm. The height of all walls, except for the front, should be 700÷1000 mm, depending on the expected amount of waste. The front wall can have a height of 300 ÷ 500 mm, which will be convenient for loading waste and sampling ready-made humus.
• Having chosen a platform for installing the box and marking it, the top layer of soil is removed from it by 200 ÷ 250 mm for free penetration of soil moisture and earthworms into the mass.
• To fix the slate sheets in a vertical position, wooden or metal posts are installed around the perimeter of the site. They may require from four to six, depending on the design of the composter.
• Then, slate is fixed to the vertical posts. It is desirable that between the lower edge of the sheets and the soil surface there is a gap of 20 ÷ 25 mm, which will allow oxygen to freely enter the lower layers of the plant mass.

For faster processing, it is recommended to moisten the stacked waste by adding composting agents with live bacteria to the water.

The sixth option is a compost pit in the ground

This is probably the most common way to arrange a compost pit, which is often chosen by not very experienced gardeners. As you can see from the information presented above, this is far from the most successful version of the composter, since the plant waste in it will begin to rot, rather than decompose.

metal mesh prices

metal grid

Such a pit is best used simply for dumping organic waste that is not intended for the manufacture of humus. If the pit is being built for this very purpose, then it is best to locate it away from residential buildings, since rotting garbage attracts a large number of flies, which will seek to visit not only the garbage pit, but also the premises of the house.

If this option still turns out to be attractive as a compost pit, then it will be necessary to loosen the plant waste folded into it very often in order to provide the aeration necessary for proper processing.

It is not difficult to equip such a pit - for this, a foundation pit 400 ÷ 600 mm deep is digging away from the house. The size of its sides can be different, but the best option is 600 × 600 or 700 × 700 mm. The large size of an unreinforced pit can lead to erosion of the soil around it, that is, it will begin to crumble and expand. If you need a pit of larger dimensions, then its walls must be strengthened with at least slate, setting it to the full depth.

It is recommended that kitchen waste dumped into the pit, such as peeling vegetables and fruits, be sprinkled with grass and a small amount of soil - this will partially help hide the unpleasant smell that attracts flies.

It would be useful to add special substances to such a composter, however, it is necessary to choose environmentally friendly preparations, since chemistry can spread to garden beds with rain and ground moisture or get under the roots of trees.

The seventh option is composting waste directly on the ground

Another method of preparing fertilizers, which is often used in rural areas, is the storage of plant residues in the form of a haystack. It is accessible to any owner and the simplest method of compost production. However, it has some inconveniences, since it is rather inconvenient to loosen the mass stacked in a pile, as well as to get ready-made compost from under the upper fresh layers.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to opt for this option, then before laying the waste, it is recommended to lay a layer of branches on the ground, which will allow oxygen to freely penetrate into the lower layers of the haystack. In this variant, the compost will reach full maturity after one and a half to two years.

If it is not possible to build a composter and even perform the laborious work of building and loosening a stack of plant waste, then there is another simple way to make compost. It can be called “feminine”, since all this is done without any special physical effort.

In this case, the waste is also piled right on top of the soil. The best place for this would be partial shade, which can always be found under the trees of the garden. You can organize such a composter right on a temporarily unused garden bed, covering the laid plant waste with any dark material. This compost heap does not have to be tall, so it can be easily loosened with a pitchfork. If there is a lot of waste, then several heaps are organized in different parts of the garden. With this approach, the finished humus will not have to be transported from one corner of the garden to another, since it will be produced in the area that needs to be fertilized.

Find out how to do it with step by step instructions in a new article on our portal.

However, in this case, bioactivators cannot be dispensed with. Composting works are carried out in the following order:

• A pile of plant waste is laid on the soil with a height of no more than 500 mm. Each layer is sprinkled with garden soil.
• Then, all waste is poured with water, since all layers must be wet.
• Further, according to the attached instructions, the bioactivator is diluted, infused, and the whole pile is poured with this solution.
• Wet biomass is covered with dark material, but in such a way that the lower part of the heap is ajar for free access of oxygen. If there is no dark film or, then an old oilcloth that does not let in sunlight will do. The corners of the covering material are pressed against the ground by heavy objects such as stones or bricks.
• The finished structure is left for overheating. Well, you need to loosen it about once every two weeks.
• According to experienced gardeners who use this method of making humus, it fully matures in 5-6 months.

Biological preparations for the production of compost

Now a few words should be said about the preparations that are used to make compost.

Today, in specialized stores, you can find a large number of different products that help reduce the period of decomposition of biological waste.

When bioactivators are used to make compost, it matures much faster than when plant waste decomposes in natural conditions. And this is especially important when the site needs to be fertilized annually, as it is constantly used for growing crops.

Bioactive products containing, contribute not only to the rapid production of humus, but also to the destruction of harmful microorganisms, the elimination of unpleasant odors, as well as the enrichment of the soil with minerals. The manufacture of solutions from concentrates is carried out according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer on the packaging. However, experienced gardeners advise after diluting bioactivators to add a little sugar or old jam to them. This will help to give a kind of "acceleration" of the initial activation of living bacteria that are in a "sleeping" state before breeding. After dilution, the solution should brew a little. It is interesting - if it is kneaded in a bucket, then you can even visually observe how the activation process will go.

The table below shows a few preparations that can be found in stores selling products for the treatment and fertilization of garden plots.

If the nearest store did not find the above funds, then the seller will definitely offer other options for bioactivators. Before purchasing the selected drug, you should carefully study its characteristics, manufacturer's recommendations for use and instructions for preparing the working solution.

In conclusion, I would like to say that according to the information presented above about the existing options for arranging a composter for processing plant waste, it is quite possible to decide on the choice of a suitable option. It depends on financial capabilities and practical experience with various materials and tools. And the presence of a compost pit in the garden, in any of its incarnations, is always a big plus.

And for completeness of information - watch a very informative video, which contains recommendations for self-production of compost from plant waste.

Video: Tips for a gardener on making quality compost

We prepare compost in the country: rules and technology for the manufacture of organic fertilizer

Many summer residents understand that if you annually exploit the site for growing vegetables and fruit crops and do not apply organic fertilizers, then soil fertility will dry out very soon.

How to make compost with your own hands and fertilize all cultivated plants with it in the country will be discussed in this article.

What is compost and its benefits for plants

To begin with, it is important to understand what compost is and how to make it in order to make a good fertilizer. Compost is a type of organic fertilizer that is obtained from the decomposition of weeds, plant residues, fallen leaves, kitchen waste and manure under aerobic conditions (using oxygen). The decomposition of organic matter occurs as a result of the activity of bacteria, and for this it is necessary that the humidity in this biomass be at the level of 45-70%, and the temperature of the medium should vary within 28-35°C. Along with bacteria, various insects and worms take part in the decomposition process. As a result of their vital activity, additional energy is generated, which contributes to a better decomposition of biomass.

The materials used to make compost require shredding. Large fragments decompose over a longer time. In terms of value, rotted plant residues are in no way inferior to humus and have the following advantages and disadvantages:

• as part of the compost, macro- and microelements for plant nutrition are presented in the right proportion;
• barely hitting the soil, it takes part in metabolic processes, making up for the lack of nutrients;
• it combines with the soil and becomes its integral part;
• after irrigation and as a result of showers, nutrients do not pass into the deep layers of the soil, as with mineral fertilizers, but remain in the soil horizon;
• it easily passes water and air, which is very important for the normal growth of plants;
• as part of this organic fertilizer, humus is present in large quantities, due to which soil fertility increases;
• overdose of plants with this fertilizer is impossible, since all the constituent parts are of natural origin;
• with natural decomposition, compost does not clog the soil with toxins;
• of the entire list of organic fertilizers, it is the most affordable and cheapest.

No appreciable shortcomings were found in the compost, with the exception of an unpleasant odor, which may accompany the process of decomposition of plant residues. In addition, flies, ants and other insects will always indicate their presence around the compost heap. But this problem is solved by arranging a door near the box and placing it in the most remote place of the site.

Factors affecting the decomposition of organic matter

The process of creating organic fertilizer from food waste and cut grass is divided into 3 stages: Decomposition. The components of the mixture are heated inside the heap, changing their structure. Beneficial microorganisms appear in the resulting product, including fungi, as well as earthworms, which contribute to the acceleration of the processing of organic matter into fertilizer. Humus formation. At this stage, it is important to supply the collar with oxygen, without which the microorganisms cannot breathe. Therefore, the shoulder should be shoveled several times, moving its outer layers inward and vice versa. Mineralization. Nitrogenous compounds decompose to bacterial protoplasm and nitrogen, and humus passes into a mineral form. After this stage, it can be used for its intended purpose. It will take approximately 10-12 months to complete all stages in favorable conditions.

Choosing a location for the composter

A compost heap, pit or box is best placed in the far corner of the garden so that the sun's rays do not fall on them. If the composition for the future fertilizer is intensively illuminated by the sun, the process of its preparation will be greatly delayed. Do not set up the composter next to apple trees or other trees - their roots will grow into a pile and pump out all the nutrients from the pile.

Composter device

If you are thinking about how to prepare compost in the country, then you should familiarize yourself with the device of the composter. Proper organization of the decomposition process is the key to quickly obtaining high-quality organic matter. It is not difficult to make it, following the recommendations. Composting can be done in a compost heap and in a bin. The first way is called classical. The outer frame of the compost heap is made of mesh, which allows air and moisture to pass through. If special additives are added to it, it matures in 9 months. The material for the manufacture of the box can be anything:

• net;
• wooden pallets;
• slate;
• boards.

On the market you can buy ready-to-use plastic containers. The volume of containers is selected from 1 m³. If the capacity is less, the process of decomposition of organic matter will noticeably slow down.

Layering rules

It is necessary to lay materials in such a way that soft and wet layers are interspersed with hard and dry layers. This provides an influx of oxygen, which will accelerate the decomposition process. Nitrogen and carbon components decompose differently. Nitrogenous decompose quickly, absorbing a lot of oxygen and releasing heat. And carbonaceous substances have a loose composition, are rich in oxygen and, when decomposed, consume nitrogen. If you put an equal amount of these components into the composter, you can achieve the perfect balance. Layers with a thickness of 15-20 cm should be laid alternately and mixed well, ensuring their contact with each other. You can evenly spread chicken manure, fresh manure or a special stimulant to accelerate the maturation of compost into a pile.

A good organic fertilizer is obtained when the initial nitrogen and carbon components are taken in equal amounts. It is advisable to sprinkle the first layer of ingredients with a layer of earth mixed with lime.

What can and cannot be composted

Those people who believe that compost is just a bunch of rotting plant debris in the back of the garden, where you can throw everything, are wrong. This is not so, in order to get the right fertilizer, you need to prepare it according to certain rules. The following components are added to the composition:

• green grass, hay and straw;
• green parts of plants and individual weeds;
• small branches, pieces of wood and sawdust;
• food plant residues;
• manure of cattle, sheep, goats and bird droppings;
• chalk, ash, egg shells;
• special composting accelerators.

There are a number of ingredients that should not be put in a compost pit:

• food residues of animal origin, as they stimulate the process of decay with the release of an unpleasant odor;
• faeces of carnivores and humans, which may contain worm eggs;
• pieces of fabric, coated glossy paper, rubber scraps, stones;
• any chemicals;
• weeds that produce seeds that remain viable for a long time, as well as underground parts of rhizomatous and root offspring plants that remain viable;
• plant residues inhabited by pests and affected by fungal diseases.

Ways to accelerate ripening and hot cooking

The composting process can take from 4 months to 2.5 years, the time required for maturation depends on the size of the components and the conditions created.

Important! The temperature inside the pyramid must be brought to 60 degrees or more. High temperature accelerates the decomposition of organic matter and destroys weed seeds, larvae of harmful insects.

To quickly prepare a nutritional composition, it is better to use the following steps:

• provide a pile (pit) with moisture and air;
• add a special accelerator (Baikal-Em, Unique-S) or fresh manure to the water for irrigation;
• shoveling layers to improve the supply of heaps with oxygen;
• warming the heap in winter to extend the period of active fermentation;
• watering with herbal infusion, consisting of 5 parts of chopped grass, 2 parts of chicken manure and 20 parts of water;
• watering the burt with yeast infusion;
• landing on a pile of zucchini and pumpkins, the root secretions of which contribute to the rapid decomposition of organic residues;
• the use of California worms in the processing of organic residues, which pass organic matter through their digestive tract and as a result biohumus is obtained.

There is another cooking method - hot composting, thanks to which the fermentation process takes place in a short time. This method also has other advantages:

• weed seeds lose their germination;
• pathogenic microorganisms die;
• the substance has a fine fraction.

A variation of hot composting is the Berkeley method, thanks to which the time for processing organic matter is reduced to 18 days. When using this method, the following requirements must be met:

• the temperature in the center of the heap should be at the level of 55-65 degrees;
• the ratio of carbon to nitrogen in the components of the substrate should be 30:1;
• the height of the pile is brought to one and a half meters;
• all components must be crushed;
• layers are shoveled 7 times and mixed well.

The algorithm of actions for the 18-day Berkeley method is very simple:

• form a compost heap;
• 4 days do not touch it;
• then within 2 weeks of days turn it over every other day.

The compost is of high quality, dark brown color, with a good smell.

Important! If you notice that earthworms crawl into the prepared compost, it means that it has finally matured and contains a lot of nutrients.

Types and manufacturing technology on the site

The compost is ready for use when it has fully matured. Well-ripened material does not require additional application of mineral or other fertilizers and is capable of providing a decent and environmentally friendly harvest. For the effective use of organic fertilizer from plant residues, you need to know how to determine its ripeness. The following are the main signs indicating that the composition has matured and is ready for use:

• the material has a homogeneous structure and it is impossible to see the individual components;
• after overheating, the compost has a loose and loose consistency;
• compost has acquired a dark brown color;
• the finished product has the smell of wet soil.

Ripened compost is similar to black earth soil with a loose and porous composition.

There are many recipes for the preparation of this organic fertilizer. Some of them involve the use of only natural ingredients, in other cases mineral fertilizers are added to the organic matter - after all, the plant components contain enough nitrogen, and phosphorus and potassium are present in small quantities. To make the right compost, you need to achieve the right balance of these nutrients. Depending on the starting materials used, the list and number of additives can vary greatly. Below are the most widely used and effective composting technologies.

Classic based on herbs and food waste

This type is easy to manufacture, while being effective in use. Classic compost is prepared from simple and affordable components, among which it should be noted:

• green mass, consisting of tops, branches and algae - it makes up the first layer (20 cm);
• cattle manure - the second layer (10 cm);
• dolomite flour or crushed limestone - the third layer (0.5 cm).

Layers should be alternated until the height of the collar reaches 1.5 meters in height. This is how this type of compost should be made, the only drawback of which is a one-year or even two-year aging period. The finished product can be used on the site.

With manure and superphosphate

This composition, as its name implies, is prepared using superphosphate, which enriches the substrate with phosphorus. Phosphorus helps retain nitrogen by binding the ammonia in manure. Making such compost in the country is not difficult. This type of compost consists of the following components:

• land from the garden (10 cm);
• manure mixed with superphosphate in a ratio of 50:1 (10 cm).

This method is relatively fast and is suitable for maturation in 3 months. If the ingredients are bookmarked in the spring, then in early July, potatoes are already fed with ready-made humus and raspberries are mulched.

With the addition of bird droppings

Chicken manure is a very valuable fertilizer, but in its pure form it is not suitable for use, as it can burn the plant. The best way to use it is to compost it. To obtain it, the following ingredients are mixed:

• a layer of bird droppings 20-25 cm thick;
• straw layer - 5-10 cm;
• a layer of sawdust - 5-10 cm;
• the top layer should consist of a layer of peat - 10-20 cm.

If you cover the compost pit with a film, then there will be no unpleasant smell and the product will ripen in 2 months.

In addition to the above components, compost can be enriched with the following ingredients:

• superphosphate;
• wood ash;
• potassium salt;
• ammonium nitrate.

Before laying the compost with your own hands, straw and branches are laid at the bottom of the pit as drainage. Two weeks after laying the top layer, the substrate is subjected to shoveling. Thanks to this procedure, all layers ripen at the same time. For application, you can dilute the finished compost in water or apply it dry.

Based on peat

With this method, you need to saturate the peat with mineral fertilizers, mixing everything well. The ingredients of such compost should be the following substances:

• weeds free from seeds - 100 kg;
• dry peat - 200 kg;
• ammonium sulfate - 350 g;
• sodium nitrate - 50-70 g;
• potassium salt - 50 g.

Compost is prepared as follows:

• on a flat area, a small layer of garden soil is poured;
• peat is poured in the second layer (40 cm);
• a layer of chopped branches, tops and grass is placed on the peat.

All layers need to be compacted a little, then ripening will be faster. Thus, humus can be made from grass, peat and mineral fertilizers.

For champignons

When preparing compost for growing mushrooms, you need to take the following components in given quantities:

• dry straw - 100 kg;
• liquid chicken manure - 100 kg;
• mullein, in the amount of 50 kg;
• gypsum - 5 kg;
• chalk - 3 kg;
• water, to give proper moisture to the substrate.

Such compost is not used for top dressing, it is used as soil for the cultivation of mushrooms. The ingredients are laid in layers, pouring water. The ripening period can be several months. During this time, the filled collar must be subjected to 4-5 times perebivka. A sign of the ripeness of compost humus is the state of a homogeneous mass of all components of the substrate.

How to cook in bags

Compost in bags is prepared when there is not enough space in the country. Let's try to figure out how to quickly make compost in bags and how to shed it to speed up maturation:

• first you need to buy thick black plastic bags;
• the turf is removed from the site, putting it in bags;
• crushed weeds are added to the bag;
• the mixture is spilled with biohumus or other biostimulant;
• sealed with tape.

After a few months, the compost will finally mature, it can be used to fertilize vegetable beds.

Production in boxes

Many devices have been developed for storing bio-fertilizers for plants. People prepare compost in a barrel, pit, pile, heap and box. You can buy boxes or make your own. They are mobile and stationary. In the stationary version, the perimeter of the planned capacity is first marked and stakes 1.5 meters high are driven in in the corners. Then the spans are sewn up with boards, between which gaps are left.

Cooking technology at home

Compost can be made in slow and fast ways. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To quickly prepare compost, you need to work according to the following algorithm:

1. First of all, we make a container where organic residues will be stored. This may be a well-ventilated box, pit or pile with access to the contents.
2. At the bottom of the tank we make drainage from a layer of hay, straw, branches.
3. The components are laid in layers and without compaction, so as to ensure the alternation of wet waste with dry, solid components with soft ones.
4. To speed up the process, special organic decomposition accelerators can be added to the compost in layers: nitrogen supplements, leguminous plant residues, cattle manure.
5. To maintain the process temperature in the pile and create optimal conditions for beneficial microflora, you need to cover the pile with an old carpet or oilcloth.
6. Every month it is required to shovel the compost heap so that its outer layers fall inside, and the inner ones are on top and on the side.
7. In the summer heat, the contents are lightly sprinkled with water to maintain optimal technological humidity.

If you were able to make the container correctly and carried out composting according to the technology, then you will receive the finished product in 3-5 months.

If you set out to make the right compost from grass or branches, you should be aware that this process will be very long, but in the end you will get a quality product. You need to prepare the components for composting, put them in a pit and wait for 2 years. So, let's look at the technology of preparing a "food supplement" for plants in a slow way:

• we dig a wide hole on an elevated site with a depth of 60 cm;
• inside the pit we lay chopped tree branches, bark, wood particles, grass;
• on top of the heap we fall asleep with a layer of soil and wait for 2 years.

An effective organic fertilizer will be ready for use in 2 years.

Use of organic fertilizer

Ripe compost is suitable for any crops with the same application rates as manure (15-20 kg per 1 m²). Methods can be very different:

• in the fall for the main tillage;
• under spring plowing;
• before planting potatoes;
• add to the wells when planting seedlings;
• spring and summer as a mulching material.

In spring and summer, ready-made compost is scattered on the soil and dug up to a shallow depth.

Strictly following the simple rules and country advice, on the basis of which this useful organic matter is prepared annually at home, you can also properly make compost in the country with your own hands and fertilize the soil to increase crop yields and improve fruit quality.

If you got bad land on the site, on which nothing wants to grow, start enriching it. It is easiest to bring black earth, but it is not always possible to get it, especially in the city. It is also unprofitable to introduce chemistry abundantly: in the end, you yourself will consume it. There is only one thing left: to make nutrient soil ourselves. Or rather, learn how to cook healthy compost. It is only ignorant people who are afraid of compost pits, because they think that they emit a stench that spoils the air in the entire area. In fact, compost does not smell if it is properly laid and bacterial activity is maintained. How - let's take a closer look.

So, first of all, a convenient place for a compost pit is selected on the site. As a rule, she is given territory in the backyard of the garden, behind outbuildings, where the appearance of a pile of waste will not spoil the overall landscape. The only caveat: look during heavy rains, where the water flows. It should not run towards the well (if there is one), otherwise decay products of the waste may get there, which will affect the quality and taste of the water.

There are two arrangement options: you can dig a deep hole and put raw materials for compost in it, or knock down a wide box from wooden planks with a removable wall for ease of use.

Pit technology

A deep pit is more convenient because all plant materials will hide in the ground and will not hurt the eyes, but the compost in it takes longer to cook, and it is more difficult to mix it. If, nevertheless, only this option suits you, equip the pit correctly, because oxygen and ventilation are necessary for the normal decomposition of organic matter. And the dense earthen walls and the bottom will not let any air through. Therefore, the hole is dug as follows:

• They take out the soil no more than a meter deep, three meters long and one and a half wide.
• 20 cm retreat from the walls of the pit on each side and knock down a wooden box, digging 4 columns in the corners and nailing boards to them.
• Between the boards, the distance is about 5 cm, so that all layers of the compost are ventilated.
• Divide the hole into two equal parts with a wooden shield to fill only one half.
• The bottom is covered with thick tree branches, bark, spruce branches and straw (whatever you find). This will be a drainage that removes excess moisture and helps the compost to ventilate from below. The height of the drainage layer is 10-15 cm.

Vegetable waste is stored in one part of the compost pit, but during the season they are thrown several times from one half to the other in order to saturate the heap with oxygen.

The hole can be made halfway in the ground, and not buried completely, then it will be easier for you to stir up the contents and air access will improve

The second option for laying compost is in a box made of unpainted wood (or factory made of plastic). In appearance, it is absolutely identical to ordinary boxes, only several times larger. When creating a frame, do not forget to leave gaps between the boards and make one side removable, so that it is more convenient to lay and mix the raw materials. Alternatively, you can hang a door.

The plastic composter has perforated doors at the bottom on each side, through which the contents are ventilated, but you will have to moisten the waste yourself

Since such structures are usually made for many years, the floor can be concreted, and drainage can be laid on top (such as in the pit). Some owners put wooden or plastic shields on the bottom. True, over time, the tree will become unusable, but nothing lasts forever.

Now it remains to fill the prepared place with the right raw materials, which will rot into high-quality compost.

Two compost bins located side by side are convenient in that you can transfer waste for ventilation from one to another without littering the nearby area

Features of the correct laying of waste

In order for your pile to successfully rot and turn into nutritious soil by the new season, you need to throw only plant waste into the compost: leaves, mowed grass, the remains of root crops and fruits, sod, weeds, finely chopped branches of trees and shrubs.

By laying waste from your own garden in the compost pit, you thereby solve the problem of removing plant debris and get fresh, high-quality soil

To make the composition of the compost even more nutritious, put in it everything that you didn’t eat yourself: leftover soups, coffee grounds, tea leaves, yesterday’s salad, etc. In a word, put another container for plant waste in the house next to the garbage bin, and you'll be surprised how quickly it fills up. Old cardboard boxes, newspapers (black and white), worn-out items made from natural materials (cotton, wool) are suitable for compost.

Unwanted Ingredients

And now let's dwell on the harmful, from the point of view of experienced gardeners, waste. It is strictly forbidden to put the remains of animal products into the compost: dead birds and animals, old lard, fats, intestines, spoiled milk, sour cream, etc. All this, when decomposed, begins to exude an unpleasant odor and will attract harmful insects, neighboring dogs, cats and crows to a bunch . In addition, decay processes in animal remains are slower than in plant remains, and your compost will not have time to ripen by the next season.

But summer residents have not decided on marine life. Some do not add them so as not to attract animals to a bunch, but others are happy to throw into the compost everything that remains when cleaning the fish (heads, scales, entrails), citing the fact that they contain phosphorus valuable for plants. Only it is necessary to bury such waste deeper in a pile so that the cats do not smell the smell.

Indeed, fish feeding is useful. Therefore, we advise everyone who is sorry to throw away a valuable product: do not put them in compost, but bury them right under the trees, in near-trunk circles. Just dig a deeper hole. Thus, you will feed the garden, and you will not attract stray animals.

If you knock down a compost bin with an opening roof, then feel free to put fish waste inside, because animals will not crawl into such a container.

Do not put plastic, glass, metal objects, rubber, washing water, etc. into the pit. They are harmful to the soil. All paper products with a laminated base or with color drawings will not be useful either. There is too much paint and chemicals in it.

An undesirable ingredient in compost is tomato and potato tops. By autumn, it is all affected by late blight, and the spores of this disease will be transmitted with compost to healthy plants.

Do not lay in the compost and weeds with the beginning or end of the flowering period. For example, if a dandelion has had time to form a flower, the seeds will still ripen, even if it is plucked and placed in a pile. Therefore, try to mow weeds before flower buds appear.

If there is nowhere to put nightshade tops and large weeds that have had time to seed, spread them on a solid base (concrete, linoleum) near the compost pit and let dry. Then throw all the vegetation into an iron barrel and set it on fire. Everything will burn, along with diseases and seeds. Useful ash will remain. Add it to your compost heap.

How to compost waste?

In order for the waste to decompose quickly, moisture, oxygen and accelerators of putrefactive processes are needed. You provide moisture yourself by watering abundantly during those periods when it is hot outside. Oxygen will penetrate into the compost more actively if you correctly lay out the layers of raw materials. So, dry waste (potato peelings, straw, hay, fallen leaves, husks, etc.) should be alternated with green waste (tops, fresh grass, rotting vegetables and fruits), soft with hard, in order to avoid excessive compaction. It is very important that the compost is made from brown and green ingredients in equal proportions. Fresh waste is the main source of nitrogen required by all plants. Brown (i.e. dry) act as a layer that prevents the compost from sticking together. They are considered a kind of fiber, which makes the soil airier and lighter.

Try to put green and brown waste in equal proportions, as excess green will cause compaction, and excess dry material will suck nitrogen out of the compost.

If you need compost by next spring, add decomposition accelerators to it. These can be concentrates bought at a garden store, which must be diluted with warm water and activate the work of beneficial bacteria contained in the preparation.

An excellent accelerator is fresh manure (horse or cow). They find a couple of cakes on the field, dilute them in a bucket of water and let it brew for two days. Then the finished solution is poured into the compost and the contents of the heap are mixed. If this goodness is not near your dacha, finely chop the leaves of dandelion, nettle, legumes, fill it with a bucket of warm water and put it in the sun. After day 4, the mixture will begin to ferment. Then pour it into the compost.

To avoid nitrogen weathering, the compost heap is covered on top with non-woven material or black film. When closed, decay is faster, and an active release of heat will be a sign of this. Inside the compost, the temperature should be at least 60 degrees.

It is highly undesirable to cover a wooden box with a film from top to bottom, because by doing so you will block the path of oxygen, and the quality of the finished compost will be much worse.

During the season, the pile is shoveled 3-4 times to ensure uniform decay of all layers. By spring, plant waste will turn into rich loose earth smelling soil that can be applied under trees, mulched strawberries, or mixed with garden soil to improve its composition.