How to build terraces of beds in relation to the house. Do-it-yourself high beds: step by step we make beds from boards in the country

The garden bed is the basis of the garden, the harvest, the effort and time spent on processing and agricultural technology for growing crops depend on its laying. When thinking about how to arrange the beds on the site correctly and conveniently, it is important to take into account a set of factors: location and topography, climate, soil features, cardinal points and a number of other factors. Study the theoretical aspects in advance to avoid problems in practice and increase the yield of each hectare.

Basic rules for creating beds

For optimization garden work Before starting field work, you must:

• determine the types of vegetables to be grown, as well as their quantity;
• using special tables to calculate the required area;
• draw up a plan of the site and the location of the beds on it.

The right beds are functional and beautiful

Such simple preparation will help to avoid unnecessary labor costs and, perhaps, will allow allocating a place for recreation, or fruit and berry crops, on the territory.

Area and location of the site

To determine the required area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden, first of all, decide whether you will grow vegetables only for the family, or also for sale. Kurdyumov N.I., the author of the book "Encyclopedia of a smart summer resident", claims that a family of five people will have enough 90 square meters of landings, without taking into account the paths between them. He uses ridges 0.5 m wide with wide passages of 1 m, that is, the area of ​​​​the occupied site is about 4 acres.

It is not necessary to rely on other people's advice. Using special tables, calculate the annual need for vegetables per family, as well as the required area for their cultivation. To save space as well as increase yields, grow crops such as cucumbers, tomatoes, beans and the like on a trellis, or tie them up.

Table of the needs of vegetables and the area of ​​​​their cultivation

Having calculated the size of the garden, proceed to its location on the plan. Consider here:

• grow vegetables on the south side of the cottage, there are more sunlight and the earth warms up better;
• trees and buildings should not obscure the garden, place them on the north side of it;
• the relief of the allotment should be as even as possible, if this cannot be achieved, take care of drainage grooves in low-lying places, or consider a terraced garden.

An example of a site layout on paper

The shape of the allotment for growing vegetables can be any, do not go in cycles in standard rectangles. However, keep in mind that when processing it is undesirable to walk between plantings, so do not make the beds too large. Ideally, if standing on the path, you can process the plantings across the entire width, or at least more than half.

If the backyard area is small, consider high, vertical or multi-level landings. They are especially popular for growing strawberries, wild strawberries, herbs. Keep in mind that it is better to make vertical structures with perennials mobile in order to be able to hide them for the winter, otherwise the vegetables may freeze.

Non-standard multi-level beds

Rules and features of the layout

A serious approach to growing vegetables requires a little preparation and competent planning of beds in the garden and their location.

1. Prepare a separate notebook where you will write down how to distribute the beds on the site.
2. Make a summer cottage plan in a notebook, mark the location of the ridges on it.
3. Number the ridges.
4. On a blank sheet, write the year of sowing and the numbering of the islets with the crops that you will grow.

Such a notebook and diagram will serve for many years, preserving important information for the gardener. It helps to navigate between crops, adhere to sevosmen and correctly select neighboring plants, which is extremely important even for a small area. After all, non-observance of crop rotation of vegetables and ignoring their compatibility threatens with soil depletion and a significant reduction in yield.

For the convenience of the seed shift, conditionally divide the territory into four zones, where you will grow crops with different requirements for soil nutrition, as well as perennials.

• Very demanding - cabbage, cucumbers, pumpkin, potatoes, garlic.
• Moderately demanding - onions, carrots, beets, lettuce, spinach, kohlrabi, radishes, peppers, potatoes, melons.
• Undemanding - the legume family.
• Perennials - strawberries, wild strawberries, rhubarb, perennial herbs.

Proper layout facilitates crop rotation

When planning a garden plan, do not forget to mark the location compost heap. If you don't want to spoil appearance landscape, put a composter. The remains of plants and other organic matter, stacked here, are processed better than in a regular pile. To enhance the effect of decay, use special bacteriological additives.

The layout of the cottage on the slope

The location of the cottage on a slope is not an obstacle to growing garden crops. Good advice experts will facilitate this process:

• Position the beds across the slope to reduce erosion.
• On a slope up to 50, place vegetables in its upper part. Plant shrubs at the bottom or make high beds, with excessive soil moisture there.
• On a slope with a steepness above 5.10, equip terraces on which you already place plantings. The recommended ratio of their length and width in this arrangement is 4:1 or 5:1.
• On a slope steeper than 70, make ditches up to 20 cm deep in the middle of the garden and at a distance of 1 m from the edge of the terrace. This will further protect the soil from erosion.

Terraced vegetable garden

Creation of new beds

Raised or recessed fenced plantings are very popular with modern gardeners. They are easier to process, you can use special earthen mixtures with the right composition, it is easier to calculate required amount fertilizers, and a fine mesh at the bottom will protect against rodents. Make these beds "warm" and harvest two crops a year, because vegetables will ripen a couple of weeks faster.

If you plan the location of the garden on an unplowed virgin land, use one of the methods:

1. Remove the layer of sod, but don't throw it away, chop it up and compost it. Dig up the bare ground, add a new one if possible fertile soil. Reinforce the edges with ribs.
2. Less time-consuming method: Dig up a vegetable garden and plant it with potatoes. The number of weeds will decrease significantly, but don't expect a bountiful harvest in the first year.
3. Make raised beds: dig a place for a vegetable garden or just trample (mow) the grass. Equip the sides of the desired height. Put branches, thick stems of plants, cardboard, paper at the bottom, cover with quickly distilled organic matter and soil. In dry climatic conditions, such ridges are best deepened into the ground.

Creating raised "warm" beds

There is a wide variety of techniques for arranging beds:

• high - very popular with American farmers;
• hillock;
• according to the Mitlider method;
• multi-tiered and others.

In each case, be sure to put bumpers around the edges, this prevents the soil from spreading and prevents weeds from spreading to them from the paths. For edging, get ready-made garden borders or use any available materials:

• tree, pre-treat it with an antiseptic;
• concrete;
• plastic;
• metal;
• brick;
• slate.

Be sure to follow the order of planting the beds marked on your layout plan. To save space and increase yield, plant new plants in the areas vacated after the collection of predecessors. This way you can grow not only vegetables with a short growing season, but also, for example, potatoes, if you dig them up young.

Bed parameters - a little geometry and mathematics

Professional gardeners advise abandoning the traditional continuous planting of land in favor of individual rather narrow beds with wide lanes. It is claimed that the yield of crops in such a garden is higher, because, thanks to a well-thought-out arrangement, the illumination of each plant is significantly increased. In addition, properly selected planting parameters make it easier to care for them.

Comfortable wide aisles are a must

How to calculate the optimal width

The recommended optimal width of the beds in the garden differs in different sources. The only thing that all farmers agree on is that it must be such that it is easy to process vegetables without entering the soil.

Thus, the width of the last strip should not exceed 1 m. Between plantings, it is necessary to have passages with an optimal width of 90-100 cm. You should not make a distance between the beds, because the sprawling tops of plants will significantly reduce this area.

Narrow beds along the Mitlider are also popular. This American farmer developed the "ideal garden" system, which alternates 45 cm wide beds with 90 cm aisles. Plants planted in this way receive maximum sunlight and are well ventilated. These factors, together with a balanced top dressing, guarantee a high yield even in the absence of good weather conditions.

Location in greenhouses

What should be the ideal length

Focus more attention not on the length, but on the fact that all the tapes are the same size, this will greatly simplify the care of crops. However, some lovers ignore this point, creating from landings different lengths whole compositions, thus ennobling the design of the site.

Original approach to form

What height to choose

The height depends on the climatic conditions and the characteristics of the soil on the site. On light sandy loamy soil, you should not raise the plantings, especially if the climate is dry. High beds warm up better, but also dry out faster, so they will require frequent watering. In such conditions, make a “warm” bed deep, not raised.

Heavy clay soils, especially in places that are often flooded with water or close to ground ground water, need elevated structures. Optimal Height for processing - 40 cm, but sometimes they are made even higher - 60-70 cm.

On small plots, it is possible to place a vegetable garden on different levels. At the same time, make the lowest landings on the south side, gradually increasing their height, so the plants will not shade each other.

Raised beds are easy to handle

Raised beds have a number of advantages:

• convenient watering;
• water does not stagnate;
• hilling is not necessary;
• if mulched, weeding is not needed;
• no need to dig, it is enough to loosen by 7 - 10 cm;
• early planting of vegetables is possible;
• easy to do crop rotation;
• when planting, it is unnecessary to fertilize the hole;
• with the smart use of organic matter, there is no need for inorganic fertilizers;
• can be used forever.

The location of the beds relative to the cardinal points

Experts recommend drawing up a diagram of the beds in the garden, taking into account the characteristics of the site, climatic factor and orientation to the cardinal points. Given the latter, many often violate the standard arrangement along or across the site, replacing it with an oblique or diagonal placement of beds in relation to the sun. The unfamiliarity and aesthetic imperfection of such an arrangement is compensated by a number of advantages.

What gives an accurate calculation

The correct orientation of landings contributes to:

• reduction in the number of diseased and underdeveloped plants;
• uniform illumination of crops;
• reducing the frequency of watering;
• increase in productivity by 10-15%;
• reduction of the ripening time of some crops by 3-5 days.

Orientation from north to south with a predominance of cloudy days

In addition, some gardeners claim that vegetables grown in the correct direction of planting are better stored.

Planning features for different regions

So, the inhabitants of the northern and central regions, where there is less sunlight and more cloudy days, as well as with insufficient heat and excess moisture, it is advised to orient plantings from north to south. Plants planted in this way will not shade each other.

Vegetable gardens in the southern hot and dry regions need beds oriented from west to east. With such a planting, crops shade the ground between the rows, respectively, it dries less, in addition, it decreases Negative influence overheated soil. Farmers' experiences show that in conditions of lack of rainfall, the yield of corn sown in this way was 20-25% more than that which grew in rows from north to south.

The location of the beds on the cardinal points is not always justified. The presence of strong constant winds in the region or the location of the site at an angle significantly correct this scheme. So, the negative effect of dry winds on plants is compensated by planting across the direction of air currents. In this case, plantings dry out less and retain more carbon dioxide, which contributes to photosynthesis. Ridges on an uneven area are made only across the slope.

Mitlider layout

Paths between beds

The width of the paths between the beds is described above (at least 90 cm), but it is important not only to correctly calculate the parameters of this zone, but also to equip the passages to exclude weeds. It can be both capital paths and temporary flooring. Such flooring not only hinders the growth weeds, but also make the work of the gardener more convenient.

What to make garden paths

What to put between the beds so that the grass does not grow:

• wide boards or flooring from narrow boards, knocked down for strength in one line;
• fiberboard sheets;
• ruberoid;
• mulch from sawdust, hay, grass from the lawn. It is important to remember that fresh sawdust oxidizes the soil;
• a mound of pebbles, rubble, broken bricks - such paths between the beds are very decorative and decorate the landscape;
• old linoleum;
• carton boxes.

Tree cuts

If the location of the landings does not change and the paths always remain in place, it makes sense to make capital paths. The most reliable covering between the beds from weeds is concrete. Concrete passages can be monolithic, under fake diamond or under tiles.

You can also lay out the tracks with tiles and not only concrete. The rubber tile looks very nice, in addition, it does not slip, which makes the movement of the summer resident safe.

Passages decorated with tree cuts look spectacular, but grass will still grow between the cuts if the recommendations below are not followed.

capital approach

How to prevent weeds from sprouting

This method is suitable for the design of permanent passages, that is, for those who do not plan to change the location of the beds.

How to make paths between beds so that weeds do not grow:

1. Having worked out a clear plan of the garden, mark the passages.
2. Remove the top layer of soil in the aisles. If the beds are raised or with high curbs, you can not remove.
3. Lay cardboard, layers of paper, rags, black film for beds or geotextiles - a special material from grass.
4. Cover with sand or sawdust.
5. From above, make a hard and rain-resistant coating, for example, fill it with pebbles or broken bricks.

Beds-hills, located taking into account a complex of factors

As a result, capital passages will be obtained, on which nothing will grow. In the case of redevelopment, all this must be removed and the passages filled with fertile soil.

To figure out how to place the beds on the site and how to close the paths from weeds, you do not have to spend a lot of time. Consider the climatic conditions of the region, cardinal points, soil and relief features, as well as the developments of famous farmers and, as a result, collect good harvests without unnecessary expenditure of force, energy and time for processing.

Spring is the time to take a look at your summer cottages with a fresh look.

Now it is very important to correctly plan the location of future beds and landings on them. This is one of the main components of summer success.

Change orientation

It is believed that the beds should be arranged according to the compass - from north to south. But this general recommendation not suitable for everyone.

It is much more important that the morning and evening rays of the sun could illuminate the rows of plants, so that high plantings do not obscure low ones in the morning. After all, it is not hot morning and partly evening Sun rays most favorable for the best photosynthesis, for the development and fruiting of plants. If the plants are tall, then the optimal location of the ridges in the direction from west to east, so that the low morning rays of the sun can freely "slide" along the rows of plants, illuminating each of them.

Here is what is important to know when choosing a place and preparing beds:

1 Ridges stretching from north to south are good only for low plants and a horizontal area where water during irrigation (or rain) does not stagnate and does not roll faster than it should.

2 If the site has a slight slope, then it is more important to place the landings horizontally, that is, across the slope. So the plants will receive the same amount of moisture. Small irregularities should be leveled by pouring earth.

3 Make the beds the same length and width. At experienced gardeners they measure nine, four and a half or three meters long. And the optimal, and the most "fashionable" width among specialists today, which makes it possible to cultivate the land with convenience, is 45 centimeters for all crops. This standardization helps in calculating planted plants and fertilizer consumption.

4 When the plot is uneven, the south side is considered ideal for growing vegetables - due to the more intensive solar activity there the crop ripens much faster.

5 For one family (with a properly planned plot), it is enough to allocate one hundred square meters of land for vegetables. At proper care she will provide a harvest of plums.

friend onion

Plants have a special relationship with each other. Plant a beet next to a cucumber and you will get an excellent harvest. But it’s better not to plant tomatoes next to cucumbers - they have different views on life: one loves constant humidity, and the other gets sick from it.

Properly planted nearby crops even help each other get rid of pests.

For example, experienced summer residents practice such an unusual neighborhood: among garden strawberries plant onions and garlic. This is a reliable remedy for gray rot and strawberry weevil. And if you plant parsley along the edges of the beds, then the number of slugs will noticeably decrease. What else do you need to know about the neighborhood of plants?

Garlic- beneficial effect on many plants. Plant it between rows of different crops and the strong smell of garlic will drive pests away. It is especially effective for fighting aphids; from such a neighborhood, it disappears after a few days.

Beet- stimulates the growth of spinach, beans, tomatoes, potatoes. One of interesting features This culture is that the secretions of its root crops have antibiotic properties, therefore planting it next to some vegetables, in particular carrots, has a healing effect.

Bush beans- significantly reduces the number of Colorado potato beetle on the ridges with potatoes. Beans are also "friends" with carrots, beets, eggplant, pumpkin, feel comfortable next to corn. If you plant radishes next to bush beans, the root crops will turn out to be especially tender. Favorably affects beans and tomatoes.

Tomatoes- grow well next to celery, radish, radish, lettuce, corn, cabbage, onion, garlic, spinach, parsley. The neighborhood of white cabbage and tomatoes is favorable, cabbage butterflies do not like the smell of tomato tops.

Cabbage- grows well next to most crops, but ideal neighbors for her are potatoes and onions, as well as celery and lettuce (protect cabbage from earthen fleas), dill (the plant fights aphids and improves the taste of heads of cabbage).

Dill- growing on the same bed with cucumbers, it prolongs their fruiting period. And the neighborhood with garlic and onions save cucumbers from many diseases.

cucumbers- favorable to beans: they grow faster from living together. Plant beans along the edge of your cucumber patch and you won't be disappointed.

But cucumbers have many rivals - potatoes, corn, radishes, radishes, spinach, basil are no less hungry for neighbors with beans. The basil is even ready to help the coveted neighbor - it reduces the defeat of the beans by the caryopsis.

Pepper- a wonderful "partner" for basil and thyme. Eggplant can be safely planted next to beans, onions, thyme, herbs.

Carrot- Feels good next to peas, beets, onions, tomatoes, radishes, parsley, spinach, lettuce, marjoram, sage.

Onion- best friend and carrots. Planted side by side, they are successfully protected from pests. Each of them has its own pest - the fly, respectively, carrot and onion. But the onion fly does not tolerate the smell of carrots, and the carrot fly disappears if onions grow nearby.

Onions also relieve many other pests, and also help cabbage, carrots, beets, parsley, celery, radishes, spinach, and chicory salad in nitrogen nutrition.

To hate - one step

Sometimes the plant neighborhood, on the contrary, turns out to be unfavorable. So, all legumes do not grow well next to onions and garlic. Grapes do not tolerate the neighborhood with cabbage. Garlic develops slowly if beets are planted nearby.

Cucumber does not tolerate cohabitation with essential oil crops. He doesn't like tomatoes either. It is only in a salad that tomato and cucumber go well together. And in the garden, their relationship is close to hostile.

For successful growth, tomatoes need dry hot air, rare but plentiful watering. Excessive soil moisture provokes late blight in tomatoes.

Cucumbers prefer warm dampness. But planting tomatoes on those beds on which cucumbers grew last year, and vice versa, is possible.

Many gardeners in early spring they scatter the ashes over the snow-covered beds, as soon as the sun warms up. At the same time, the earth is freed from snow and melt water two weeks earlier and warms up faster.

Melting snow is very helpful. Melt water contains a large number of various microelements that are easily assimilated by plants. Therefore, try to retain this moisture, make furrows and rolls across the slopes. Arrange drainage grooves in the lowlands.

Do not repeat the common mistake: do not delay the melting of snow under the crowns of trees with manure, sawdust and other things. You will not get any benefit from this technique, and the harm can be significant. Under the influence of positive air temperatures, the aerial part of plants awakens and requires nutrition and moisture. The roots at this time are in frozen soil and are not able to "work". As a result, the so-called physiological drying of the crown may occur.

You can quickly and easily dry the cellar from spring dampness with a mini-fan installed on the suction ventilation pipe.

For growing seedlings, a box with a removable bottom is well suited. When transplanted into the ground, the plants are not damaged at all.

A convenient watering can for seedlings is obtained from a plastic bottle. To do this, make a hole in the lid with a hot nail and insert a cocktail tube with a bent tip.

Two polyethylene strips laid crosswise on the bottom of the container with seedling soil will help to extract the plant quickly, easily and without damaging the root when planting it in the garden.

So that the seedlings do not stretch too much, they should be transferred to a cooler place at night. For example, from the window near the heating battery - to the floor or to the balcony doors.

If every morning you several times (5, 10 or 20) pass over the seedlings on the windowsill or in the greenhouse with a cardboard or hand, then your plants will grow more squat and strong.

Before choosing a place for garden beds, it is worth analyzing the location of all buildings and structures that are or are planned to be built on the site. Because it depends on them temperature regime, lighting, wind protection and other factors that affect the full growth of garden crops. In the conditions of small plots, it is important to take into account not only large objects on their territory, but also on neighboring plots. We will tell in the article about planning a garden, we will give advice to novice gardeners and summer residents.

Choosing a place for garden beds

Often, gardeners allocate for the garden the area that remains after the placement of all structures. But the quality of the crop must be taken care of long before it is planted and a suitable place must be chosen. It should be the most illuminated, protected from the wind, supplied with watering. These issues need to be addressed in parallel with the planning and development of the territory.

Start by orienting the site to the cardinal points. This depends on the lighting. For the garden, choose the sunniest place. According to the rules of architectural development, buildings and structures are located so that the shadow from them occupies the minimum area of ​​the site. Fortunately, if the house is on the north side, then the shadow from it moves from the northwest to the northeast, and the south side is lit from dawn to dusk. In this case, the garden can be located in the southwest, south, and southeast direction.

The location of the water source for irrigation is also important. If it is not possible to build a well or well near the garden, then it is better to provide a water storage device. Its volume depends on the area of ​​all plantations that require irrigation. In addition, the tank serves not only to collect irrigation water, but also to regulate the temperature, which should be +18 0 - 25 0. This is especially true if the source is a deep artesian well with cold water.

Garden sizes and garden beds

The area of ​​the garden is determined by the number of vegetables that need to be grown. In small areas, 500 - 700 m 2 is most often allocated. An example of calculating the size of a garden, taking into account the range of vegetables grown, is shown in the table:

The size of the garden may vary depending on the total area of ​​​​the site and the conditions suitable for growing vegetables. In addition, the direction of landings along the cardinal points is important. The beds are arranged so that tall plants do not shade low ones. For this reason, the row is oriented strictly from north to south or from southwest to northeast, then the plants receive maximum amount light and heat.

This favorably affects the quality of the crop, because chlorophyll, sucrose, starch are other complex organic matter synthesized in vegetables using solar energy. Therefore, the distance between plantings should be sufficient so that there is no competition for nutrients.

On the east side of the garden, plant the tallest crops, such as trellis cucumbers, tall asparagus beans. Towards the west, the size of the plants decreases. In the final row, place undersized root vegetables, such as carrots.

How to determine the width, depth and height of the beds

Basic soil preparation is carried out to a depth of 25 - 30 cm (per shovel bayonet). It is this layer of fertile soil that most vegetable crops need. Traditional farming offers an annual digging of the land with the application of mineral fertilizers. This means that these substances must be distributed over the surface of the beds, and then evenly mixed with the soil to the full depth.

For such work, it is important to determine the convenient width of each row. Usually they form a ruler from 30 cm to 1 m, this makes it possible to approach the garden from all sides and greatly facilitates plant care and harvesting.

Tip #1 Paths of 30 - 40 cm are left between the rows, this width is enough for the free movement of one person.

Sometimes they form raised or bulk beds. This method is practiced by proponents organic farming. They arrange boxes and fill them with soil or organic debris. With the help of effective microorganisms, such as "Emochek", this substrate quickly turns into fertile humus.

If it is not possible to place all the beds in one place, a part can be arranged in the form of an ornamental garden. The plot allotted for this purpose is planned as a flower garden, only filled with vegetables. Paths between cultures are made in the form of figured paving. Such a garden looks elegant at any time of the year, even when it is empty.

The extent to which plants get along with each other can be judged by their attitude to growing conditions. Most vegetable crops prefer a sunny, wind-sheltered location and light, neutral soil. But, each plant requires nutrients for which it fights, sometimes to the detriment of its neighbors. In addition, as a result of biosynthesis, waste products are released, which favorably affect some plants and are poisonous to others.

Tip #2 It is important to take into account the timing of the ripening of crops, while the late-ripening and gaining strength, the early ones ripen and make room for those that continue to grow.

Compatibility of garden crops is indicated in the table:

When planning the planting of vegetables, you can divide the garden into four conditional sectors:

• in the first place cultures that require a lot nutrients- cabbage, cucumbers, pumpkin, garlic. Before planting, organic fertilizers are applied in the form of slurry and dolomite flour;
• in the second, vegetables with less organic needs are planted, compost is enough for them. These are carrots, beets, kohlrabi, radishes, melon peppers.
• the third is reserved for plants that do not need additional fertilizers, because they themselves enrich the soil with nitrogen. These are legumes - peas, beans.
• grown in the fourth perennials- asparagus, rhubarb, garden strawberries.

Joint neighborhood helps plants fight pests. When carrots ripen in the lower tier, onions can be “attached” to it, which has a superficial root crop. In such an alliance, plants protect each other from onion and carrot flies. Some gardeners practice planting patterns, combining crops according to ripening dates:

• 1st row - onion + radish (seeds);
• 2nd and 3rd rows - carrots;
• 4th and 5th rows - parsley.

Radishes ripen first, followed by onions. When they are harvested, carrots and parsley grow to take their place. There is a combination of crops that increase the yield of each other. Sow dill between the rows of cucumbers and along the perimeter of the garden. The harvest of greens will increase significantly. But there are a number garden plants, which are highly incompatible.

Incompatible plants and vegetables

Some plants require so much nutrition that no other crops can compete with them. For example, sunflower and corn can be compared with shrubs in terms of their nutritional requirements. medium size. They leave no chance for weaker plants to survive. Therefore, they are planted separately, or placed around the perimeter of the garden, but so that they do not shade light-loving crops.

• Sometimes corn is used as a support for cucumbers, but at the same time greens are located at a distance of 30 - 50 cm from powerful corn stalks.
• Potatoes prefer to be surrounded by their own kind and do not tolerate other types of plants. Especially actively displaces cucumbers, this is one of the unsuccessful neighborhoods.
• Placing carrots and beets in close proximity is also not a good idea. At the same time of growth and maturation, they compete with each other for food and moisture.
• Tomatoes and cabbage are not compatible.
• The neighborhood of legumes with onions and garlic is undesirable.
• Cabbage is not planted with carrots, tomatoes, parsley.

Rotation of crops in garden beds

The plant is taken from the soil useful material, but return the products of their vital activity, that is, they deplete the earth. This process occurs at different soil levels. Therefore, each year the crops are changed to reduce the one-sided use of the soil. In the place where powerful root crops grew, plants with superficial roots are planted. And the culture is returned to its original place no earlier than after 3-4 years.

The most common changes are:

• cabbage, pumpkin, zucchini, beans, beets, carrots, dill are appropriate after tomatoes and potatoes;
• cucumbers, zucchini, squash change cabbage, radish, beets, onions, garlic, tomatoes, potatoes;
• garlic, onions, tomatoes, potatoes are best planted after carrots, parsley, celery.

Gardeners' mistakes when planning a site

Mistake #1. Placement of the garden without regard to the environment.

Often large structures obscure plantings. This would not have happened if the garden was located on a site that is not shaded by tall objects.

Mistake #2. Incorrect placement of crops in height.

affects the quality of the crop, if large plants cast a shadow on the lower ones.

Mistake #3. Neglect of the water storage.

Owners of small plots feel sorry for the place for the tank. It can be placed in the economic zone by burying it in the ground. Comes to the surface concrete ring and manhole cover. But the garden and garden will always be provided with the right amount of water with optimum temperature for watering.

Rubric “Questions and answers”

Question number 1. I chose the brightest place for the garden between the house and the fence, but the harvest is very modest and it is clear that this place is not suitable for vegetables, although the land is good. What could it be?

Fertility and lighting will not help if the garden is located in a wind tunnel, that is, in a draft. And this is true if the distance from the house to the fence does not meet building standards. Try moving the garden to another location that is sheltered from the wind.

Question number 2. There is no such thing in our area. large area, which would accommodate one large garden. What can be done in this case?

Plant each type of plant separately. This way you can avoid the unfortunate neighborhood of cultures and achieve decorative originality.

Question number 3. If you follow the advice on placing the garden in the brightest place, it turns out that we have it right at the entrance. Here I want to plant something beautiful. How to be in such a situation?

Gotta arrange decorative vegetable garden. Plan the form like a flower garden and combine vegetables and ornamental plants in it.

Question number 4. Is it possible to plant tomatoes next to potatoes?

Both cultures are nightshade, they have common pests and diseases. It is better to avoid such a neighborhood.

Question number 5. What is better to plant in the place where corn was last year?

Green manure, plants that restore the soil after a powerful depletion. You can sow clover, rye, mustard.

The goal of every gardener is to get the richest quality crop using each square meter site. But these indicators do not always depend on the area of ​​sown land. It is much more important to properly organize the available space so that the crops are pleasing, and working in the garden is not so exhausting. And during the summer season, experience the aesthetic pleasure of contemplating one's own work. Competently broken beds are not just strips of land with vegetables or herbs. The dimensions of the beds - length, height, width - provide the most comfortable conditions for each crop, ease of site maintenance, plant care, harvesting.

Standard garden bed sizes for different crops

Standard sizes of beds vary within the following limits:

When choosing one or another size, they are guided by the requirements of the planting scheme (the distance between rows and between plants in a row).

Types of beds and their sizes

Agricultural technicians and amateur gardeners, summarizing the experience of cultivating crops in different regions, are looking for the best options for organizing beds. Therefore, beginner gardeners have a wide choice. Taking into account their own needs, climatic conditions and the characteristics of a particular site, each summer resident will determine what type of landing site he needs.

Traditional

The most familiar type of domestic beds with standard sizes- a ten-meter strip of land, the width of which can reach 2 m. Up to 40 cm are allocated to the paths between them. The arrangement of such ridges does not contain any tricks: when digging a plot, the earth leans back from the strips that will become paths. They are trampled down, the landing site is leveled with a rake. The disadvantage of traditional ridges is the impossibility of high-quality processing of plants in the center of a wide strip of land, these crops receive less sunlight, often they do not have enough space.

Big

Large planting areas are reserved for potatoes, beans, pumpkins and zucchini, which do not need regular care and thorough weeding for early stages growth. The width and length of such a bed in the garden are determined by the required amount of crops, but the total area exceeds 12–15 m 2.

Kholmikovaya

The knoll bed for vegetables is similar to high warm ones: overripe organics, in in large numbers laid at the base of the hill, increases the temperature of the soil by several degrees relative to ordinary beds. For the device, a strip of 1.90–2.0 m wide is measured, and the length depends on the choice of the landowner. The sod layer of the earth is removed from the selected site, the fertile soil is taken out up to 30 cm deep. At the bottom - a strip of up to 0.6 m - is laid with boards, branches, branches, stalks of corn, sunflower. Sod and a large amount of organic matter are laid on this ventilation and drainage layer: foliage, weeds, rotted sawdust. This layer must be at least 20 cm.

Next, a mixture of immature compost, humus, peat, straw is formed. 20 cm of fertile soil mixed with compost completes the construction of the hill, which varies in height from 0.8 to 1.0 m and is considered the optimal size. The hill is prepared in autumn so that all layers settle down and become denser. As soon as the sun begins to warm up and the snow melts, they cover it with a black film so that all layers warm up more quickly and the organic decomposition mechanism starts, which will result in the internal heating of the earth.

Before sowing crops, a small groove is made in the center of the hill to collect and retain moisture. Any vegetables grow well on mounded beds. If there is a desire to combine crops, then tall crops are planted at the very top, and below those that do not stretch in height. Thus, all plants will have enough light. At the end of the season, the mound is mulched good layer organics.

For 5 years of service, the vegetable mound bed will settle, and completely rotted organic matter will become a source the most fertile soil With high content humus.

High

High beds are most in demand in regions with a harsh climate, where spring is late and autumn comes early. A high landing can extend the summer season by almost a month. And in regions where flooding is possible on the site, this is the only option to cultivate horticultural crops without the risk of losing the entire crop.

Everyone determines the optimal size of a high garden bed in the country according to their needs, but the ideal parameters for combining width and height are: width up to 150 cm, height - about half a meter. The width of the passage between the high beds should allow you to move freely with buckets and other equipment, freely mow the grass with a trimmer, put a bench for weeding in a comfortable sitting position, that is, the paths must be made at least half a meter wide.

The material for manufacturing can be very different: boards, slate, profiled sheet, PVC panels, brick, natural or decorative rock. High beds are filled according to the same principle as knolled ones - in layers.

deep

Planting vegetables, strawberries, greens in deep beds is effective in regions with dry, hot summers, where moisture does not linger on the site, and the soil is weathered. The principle of organization is the same as for high ones, only the layers are not laid in a box of boards, but in a trench.

The optimal width of deep ridges is 0.9 - 1.0 m, and the distance between them should be at least half a meter. This width of the paths between the trenches allows each plant to get maximum lighting and enough space for development, because in final version the height of the beds is obtained at the level of the ground surface.

narrow

More and more theorists and practitioners from vegetable growing agree that the size of the beds are of fundamental importance not only for the convenience of their maintenance, but also for the efficiency of use. If it was once thought that than larger size beds and narrower paths, the larger the usable area. Experience shows that right bed- high and narrow (the width of such a bed in the garden is up to 110 cm) with optimal dimensions spacing of about half a meter.

Plants planted along the edges checkerboard pattern, get maximum light, do not fight with neighbors for a place. Root systems plants do not compete in the extraction of moisture and nutrition, and the summer resident does not break his back and bushes, trying to reach the plants, because with such an organization the width of the beds is very convenient.

High landing care narrow ridges minimal, as it does not require digging. After harvesting, a rich layer of organic mulch is poured into the box, and in the spring - compost. Charged according to the basic principle of high beds, they are ready for sowing much earlier than standard ones.

Beds according to the Mittlider method

An American farmer, developer of the author's system of beds, Mittlider is an adherent of narrow beds in the garden. Correct dimensions according to Mittlider, this is a maximum of 50 cm of landing area in width, earthen sides from 10 cm and above, and paths 0.9–1.1 m. The length does not matter in principle, but the author advises to make all the beds of the same length and width. For the effective implementation of the methodology, it is important to take into account the location of the site:

• the technology will not work in low-lying places where flooding is possible;
• the beds should be as horizontal as possible so that there are no problems with watering and washing out the earth.

On sloping plots, if it is impossible to level the ground level, a garden-terrace is arranged, placing the beds in boxes made of boards with a “ladder”. According to Mittlider, vegetables with a voluminous aerial part - cauliflower and cabbage - are planted in a checkerboard pattern, and root crops in two rows.

Greenhouse beds

The standard of beds in greenhouses 3 × 6 is 60 cm wide, up to 40 cm high, paths from 40 cm: three ridges with two row-spacings are obtained. The central garden is surrounded by a path on all sides. Such an arrangement, in compliance with the indicated dimensions, is most convenient for caring for plants and maintaining the land. Considering all the features of the area: climate, relief, wind rose, seasonal rains or drought, it is easy to choose the right type of beds or a combination of varieties so that work on the earth is a joy.

Gardening is a favorite hobby of many of our fellow citizens. In other years, only the presence of your own personal plot allowed you to keep family budget afloat, and today the garden can be seen as a source of fresh and environmentally friendly products for the family table.

But in order to get a rich harvest, it is very important to master the competent technology of tillage, because otherwise you will not be able to ensure a normal vegetative process for the crops you grow. In particular, it is very important to know how to properly make beds in the garden. This article is devoted to consideration of this issue.

Initial soil preparation

If you are going to use some area for beds, it must be processed and dug up as carefully as possible, simultaneously freeing it from debris, roots of plants and trees. If you plan to make beds on a site on which some backyard buildings previously stood, you will have to spend a lot of time cleaning it from construction debris. As a rule, in this case, a lot of glass, bunches and remnants of boards remain in the ground. All this must be removed.

In addition, after that it is desirable to bring a layer of normal soil there, from which the beds will be formed. Of course, you can try to grow plants on the remaining soil, but its fertility will be a big question.

What should be paid special attention to?

Before you properly make beds in the garden, it is very important to prepare the bottom layer of soil. The fact is that with its strong compaction, moisture will constantly linger on the beds. In dry years, this is good, but the rest of the time there will be a constant risk to plants, as their roots can simply rot.

For loosening, it is advisable to use a cultivator, since it will be very difficult to manually loosen the earth properly. Important! If this is your first time making beds in this place, it is advisable to give the soil for research: it may be too acidic or alkaline. It is better to immediately add appropriate additives to it, because otherwise it will not be possible to grow a rich harvest.

Among other things, we would recommend planting green manure on newly cultivated lands. In their quality, it is best to use alfalfa or other legumes. No need to sow rye, as it makes the soil very acidic. An exception can be made only for highly alkaline soils. Of course, in this case, all agricultural activities take much more time, but all costs are paid off.

When the issue with the soil is completely resolved, you can start marking the beds.

Of course, the creation of beds always begins with delineating the boundaries and digging, but it is important to remember that high crop yields can largely depend on other factors. Before you properly make beds in the garden, it is also important to choose their location in relation to the cardinal points. This issue should not be approached lightly, since the yield of plants depends on the correct choice of location.

Let's give some generally accepted rules that should be followed when creating sites for growing various crops. So, ridges for vegetables are located in the direction from north to south. It is best to make them rectangular. It is believed that it is more convenient to process the ridges if they have a width of 1.2 m. The length can be any, it all depends on your preferences and the size of the site.

They make at least 40 cm wide, but it is preferable to provide even wider passages, since in this case it is possible to strengthen the edges of the ridges with boards or slate.

Approximately the same requirements apply to the breakdown of flower beds or rabatok. Of course, it is much better to make their corners rounded, since those look much better. Before you properly make beds in the garden, it is best to outline their future boundaries with twine and a few pegs. Don't forget to indent as otherwise you won't have room for aisles.

What to do if you arrange a bed in a former meadow?

Important. In this case, it is necessary to carefully remove the sod. Make compost out of it: this fertilizer contains great amount nutrients that contribute to a significant increase Here's how to do a good bed with which you will receive excellent harvest!

Digging up the soil should start from the edge of the string stretched along the border. The shovel must be worked in such a way that a neat and well-defined line is obtained. In this way, we dig the entire border of the garden. Be sure to pay attention to how dense the earth is at the depth of the shovel bayonet. If there is a lot of clay there, you will have to dig two or three bayonets of a shovel deep into. Or use a cultivator or even a tractor.

We use a chopper or a hoe!

After removing the layer of sod, you will find that there is quite decent, but still somewhat dense soil under it. If the soil is too compact, it is preferable to work it with a hoe, as in this case you tear the roots of the plants, and the soil structure becomes much better. Since it is not easy to make a garden bed with your own hands, you need to purchase everything in advance necessary tools for tillage.

In a word, the creation of beds is a rather troublesome and time-consuming business. Therefore, it is worth taking care of preserving the results of your work, strengthening the resulting ridges. The easiest way to use the boards is to hammer in pegs to support them. But much more durable is the blind area made of bricks or natural stone. Besides, she looks much prettier.

When making a garden with your own hands (including beds), do not forget about the accuracy of your work. Such household plot will give you a lot of positive emotions!

And how to make beds in the garden, if you want to get a harvest from them as early as possible, starting from April-May?

We make warm beds

So that in the conditions of our middle lane to get a rich harvest and cucumbers, the natural growing season is not enough, because the earth warms up too late and freezes quickly. So how to do warm bed easy, you can fix it unfortunate misunderstanding without spending money on building a greenhouse or even a greenhouse.

By the way, what is it? In this case, before starting the development of the site, it is necessary to dig a ditch 40-50 cm deep, which completely repeats the contours of the future bed. Layers of manure are laid there, which must be alternated with the remains of tops, rotten wood and similar organic residues. You can also use kitchen waste.

Before you make a warm bed, you can also purchase it. It heats up best. Having thrown a layer of waste flush with the edges of the ditch, we lay fertile soil on top of them, and the thickness of its layer should be at least 40 cm, otherwise the roots of the plants may burn out.

Further actions

After that, we cover the finished bed with a film and leave it for a couple of days. When the ground warms up noticeably, you can plant seedlings. It is better to combine this method with the installation of a film shelter. In this case, planting can begin almost immediately after the snow melts and the strong morning frosts disappear.

Here's how to make beds in the garden. There are some difficulties with this, but as a result you will get an excellent harvest of your own vegetables.