Warm bed for tomatoes. Preparing the soil for tomatoes in the fall How to dig beds for tomatoes

Engineering systems 29.08.2019
Engineering systems

Many summer gardeners grow tomatoes on their plots from year to year. Someone prefers to control this process from the very beginning and independently grows seedlings from seeds, someone plants purchased seedlings. The paths of both converge when the time comes to plant seedlings in the ground.

In this article, we will talk in detail about a very important stage of growing in open ground - planting tomato seedlings. There are different approaches to this process, differing from each other in some points. We will describe the method adopted by us, proven by decades of successful cultivation of tomatoes, by several generations of gardeners.

Soil preparation for planting

Usually, soil preparation for planting begins in the fall, so by the time the seedlings are planted, everything should already be ready. For digging (plowing), “ripe” compost or humus is introduced, 4-5 kg ​​per square meter. If mineral fertilizers are used, it is better to apply them before spring tillage to a depth of about 20 cm. It is recommended to apply 10-15 g of urea, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium chloride per square meter.

Fertile soil rich in organic matter is best suited for growing tomatoes. To get a good harvest, it is important to follow the principles of crop rotation. Planting tomatoes (which belong to the nightshade family) after other nightshade plants (potatoes, eggplant, peppers, physalis, tobacco) is recommended no earlier than after 2-3 years.

We talked in detail about the preparation of the beds in the article. For tomatoes we use a 70x50 cm planting pattern suitable for most varieties.

Reminder: the average bushes of most varieties of tomatoes have a height of 70-120 cm. To grow varieties with a different bush height, increase or decrease the distance in the scheme. The recommended planting pattern is usually indicated on the seed packaging.

We make the beds with sides about 5 cm high, and with the sides we divide the beds into sections of 50 cm each (with a bed width of about 80 cm). We plant two tomato bushes in each section (along the edges of the beds, the distance between the bushes is 70 cm). The division into sections makes watering easier - the sides prevent the spread of water, and you know exactly how much water each bush received.

Landing dates

For different regions landing times vary. Moreover, they may differ in different years for the same region. The main thing is that frosts pass (in most cases, tomatoes die at temperatures from +2 to -1 ˚С), and the soil warms up to at least 10 ˚С at the required depth of about 10-12 cm.

Preparing seedlings for planting

It is recommended to plant seedlings at the age of 65-70 days, which already have large dark green leaves and developed root system. It is very useful to pre-harden seedlings - plants that are accustomed to a constant room temperature will not tolerate a sharp change in environment and temperature changes (day-night). To harden off seedlings, start taking them outside a couple of weeks before planting. At first, leave the plants in the shade for a few hours, increasing the time in the sun and on the street in general every day. The last days before planting, seedlings should be completely outdoors.

To combat late blight, macrosporiosis and other diseases, seedlings can be sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid 1-2 days before planting.

Bordeaux liquid - a solution of copper sulfate in milk of lime, is used as a fungicide; You can make your own or buy from stores.

Water the seedlings generously before planting to provide them with a supply of moisture and to facilitate the selection of roots. If the bushes were grown in a box without divisions, the earth should be soaked to a state of dirt in order to damage the roots as little as possible when pulling out the plants. The less the roots are damaged, the faster they will take root in a new place, the more active the initial growth will be and, as a result, the faster you will get the first crop.

Transplanting seedlings into the ground

After preparing the seedlings, there was very little left - directly transplanting the seedlings to a permanent place. Transplantation is carried out in cloudy weather or in the evening. During the night, the plant cells are filled with moisture (the mechanism of turgor recruitment - the internal pressure of the cell operates), which allows them to take root faster and become stronger.

On the beds prepared in accordance with the planting scheme, in place of each future tomato bush, we dig a hole. The depth and width of the hole depends on which clod of earth you will transplant seedlings with.

Fill each hole with water to the brim (depending on the depth and width of the hole, 3-5 liters of water will be required).

When the water is absorbed, carefully remove the seedling bush from the box and place it in the hole. We use boxes with divisions, so each bush has a neat clod of earth that protects the roots well (which, as we said, it is important to damage as little as possible).

We deepen the bush to the first leaves. If the seedlings have overgrown or lacked light and stretched out, you can lay them at an angle, cutting off the extra lower leaves. If the stem bends well, you can dig a hole wider and roll the bush into a spiral, leaving a well-leafy top on the surface. If the seedlings are not overgrown, it is not necessary to bury the stem strongly - the old root system with the formation of additional roots will function worse.

We bury the hole, leveling the level of the beds. We water well.

So that tall plants do not fall and are not broken by the wind, we tie them to stakes, which we drive in at a distance of 8-10 cm from the stem. Stakes can be metal or wood. Instead of stakes, you can use wire or fishing line stretched over the frame. The same supports will be used for garters in the future, as the bushes grow. Some standard tomato varieties have a low, strong stem that does not need support. It is better to tie up all other varieties so that the plants do not fall from the wind and their own weight, especially when the fruits appear.

It is believed that the metal knocks down the natural "compass" of plants, preventing them from perceiving the geomagnetic fields of the earth and thereby making life difficult. However, our long-term practice shows that there is no noticeable difference when using metal and wooden stakes to obtain a crop. The differences will be noticeable only to you - metal stakes are heavier and more expensive than wooden ones, but more durable.

If the day after planting is sunny and hot, it is advisable to protect the planted plants from direct sun rays. This can be done with newspapers, stretched fabric, etc. Otherwise, the plant may endure the transplant worse and begin to drop ovaries and leaves. Recovery will take a long time, which will delay the harvest.

The landing is completed. Now we have to wait until the well-watered tomatoes take root in a new place and begin to grow. After that - periodic watering, weeding, top dressing (not earlier than 7-10 days after planting), plant formation (stepping, pinching) and, of course, harvesting. But these are topics for a separate discussion.

How to grow tomatoes in warm beds.

At the beginning of the year, I planned:

  1. Make three warm, high beds 80 cm wide and, accordingly, increase the width of the paths, because in the spring it is not very convenient to walk in big shoes, I stumble all the time.
  2. Grow two tomato trees outdoors.
  3. Find seeds and grow medicinal tomatoes in black, purple, brown and blue.

Thoughts about this made my head spin so much that warm beds, tomato trees and blue tomatoes dreamed of me at night. I constantly thought: how to do it all better and more correctly.

Warm beds

Started setting them up. in early spring. But life made its own adjustments to my plans: there was a catastrophic lack of fertile land for the upper layer. So there were only two.

To do this, I reduced the already existing beds 7 m long to 80 cm and, without digging, covered them with newspapers, sawdust, fallen leaves, and dry grass. The height of the beds was 40 cm. Next, it was necessary to pour a layer of compost, but I didn’t have compost, so I covered the beds with a layer of earth 15-20 cm. I took the earth from the greenhouse and from the paths. The walkways are spacious and very comfortable. I covered them with fresh sawdust so that they slowly overheated and “aged”. By the time of planting, the earth in the beds had settled to a level of 30 cm.

A lot has been written about the benefits of warm beds, I will not repeat myself. In short: a complete delight! I would grow up there! Tomatoes in these beds all summer looked like some kind of important gentlemen, happy with life. No bad weather, heat and rains affected their proud appearance, strong stature, emerald foliage lace and a rich harvest. Large-fruited varieties such as Canadian Giant and Black Giant produced such large fruits that they surprised me and shocked my neighbors. And everyone unanimously said that tomatoes grow better in open ground than in a greenhouse.

Three times during the summer she sprayed them from phytophthora for prevention, so the disease bypassed them. This was facilitated by the mulching of the beds.

I don’t even discuss it: I mulch automatically.

On the second bed I planted cabbage with celery. The result is excellent.

Summing up, I want to say that high warm beds are the future of my garden. I will continue in the same direction.

Healing tomatoes

In winter, without wasting time, I began to look for the seeds of the tomatoes I needed: I bought some in a garden store, some of the seeds were sent by amateur gardeners from different parts of Russia (our magazine helped), I ordered three varieties from China. I really love to grow and eat tomatoes, but it turns out that they can also be treated and prevented. Do you know the secret? The fact is that dark-colored tomatoes contain a large amount of anthocyanin pigment, which is a powerful antioxidant. The use of tomatoes of this color reduces the likelihood of developing cancer, cardiovascular diseases, improves intracellular metabolism in the human body. In total, I have 18 new interesting varieties. Briefly about them.

Large-fruited: Cherokee chocolate - dark brown, Time black reefets (USA) - maroon, Sugar brown, Chocolate miracle and Black giant - red-brown.

Medium fruits: Black Star, Black Prince, Viagra - red-brown, Kumato (Spain) - brown, Purple pumpkin - dark purple-red.

Small-fruited: Blue Blue (USA) - dark blue, dark red when ripe, Black Bunch (Japan), Indigo Rose (USA), Blueberries - blue-black, De Barao Black, Black Cream - brown.

And the smallest ones: Purple smog and the Dancing Smurfs are brown-blue.

My relatives and neighbors came to marvel at the unusual color tomatoes, but, of course, no matter how exotic and healthy they were, the traditional red and pink tomatoes did not go unnoticed. In general, tomatoes were successfully grown and tested by everyone. Idea #2 has been brought to life.

Tomato trees and their cultivation

Surprisingly, tomato tree seeds Octopus F1 and Octopus F1 Cream I quickly found it in a garden store. Why these particular varieties? Because it is written on the bags that these hybrids have a huge growth energy, high shoot-forming ability, an extensive root system and disease resistance. Octopus F1 is one of the best determinant varieties. Inflorescences are carpal, brushes - too, with 5-6 even, round, very dense red fruits in each. Fruit weight up to 160 g. The size of each tomato is the size of a fist. A Octopus F1 Cream - small-fruited, elongated, sweet, carpal, cherry-colored and very productive.

How it was

I started preparing for growing tomato trees by sewing from dense black polyethylene film two bags: height 80 cm, width 30 cm. At the bottom in the bags I made several holes with a fork to drain excess moisture, opened them and rolled the film from top to bottom, leaving a height of 10 cm. I filled the bags with ready-made universal soil for seedlings and put them on large round plates. In early February, I watered the ground in bags and planted two tomato seeds in each bag to a depth of 0.5 cm. Watered the earth again. I put a transparent bag on top and put it in a warm place. After 4 days, seedlings appeared. Then I took off the transparent bags and put the seedlings on the windowsill.

As soon as the seedlings grew by 10 cm, I left one strong plant in each bag and cut off the two lower leaves on each plant with scissors, leaving 2 cm stumps. After 2 hours, the surface of the cuts dried up, and I added soil to the first lower leaf , filling up the stem and hemp. Polila. I repeated this operation many times. The package slowly unfolded and lifted higher and higher, filling it with earth. The plants grew very quickly - in fact, the growth energy of these hybrids is amazing.

The stem grew fat before our eyes, the leaves became wide, dark green, large. In April, stepchildren and flower brushes began to appear on the plant. I regularly removed them, since my main task is to create a strong root system.

Since I used nutrient soil for seedlings, no top dressing was needed. Then, because of their instability, the packages with plants had to be placed in large buckets. And so, two buckets stood in my loggia, and on May 1, we transported our trees 1 m high to the garden and put them in a greenhouse.

I watered the plants once every three days. It's time to make two boxes for future trees. My son and I knocked down 4 shields from old boards and connected them - we got two boxes. One was placed near a pear, the second near an apple tree: I hoped that the tomato tree would cover the mountain of boards, since we were changing the entire fence and building a garage.

And on one of the fine days we carried the trees in boxes into the open air.

Putting the seedling on the ground, she cut it with a knife and carefully removed the black bag in which it grew, and covered the free space between the seedling and the “layer cake” box: a layer of weeds, leaves, a layer of earth. But again the problem with the land: not enough! Topped with mowed grass and foliage. The height of the above-ground part of the tree at that moment was already 100 cm, and the underground part was 80 cm. From that moment on, I no longer cut the leaves, and never stepped on, did not remove the flower brushes.

Forest of tomato trees

When landing in place of the Sprut F1 hybrid, it seemed to me that it was standing unevenly, I tried to straighten it, and suddenly the top of the stem with leaves and inflorescences broke. It turns out that despite all the apparent power of the plant, its stem is very fragile. It was horror ... But there is nothing to do. I continued to take care of the plant, watered it and fed it with herbal infusions. The octopus threw out several stepchildren and tied many fruits. The branches have reached the pear, and it has already begun to interfere with the tomato tree. The second hybrid Octopus F1 Slivka was transplanted successfully, without incident.

At the end of July, my tomato trees already surprised everyone who came into my garden: “What kind of trees are these?! Are they perennial? Did they grow from an ordinary small tomato seed?” the neighbors wondered.

And not in vain.

Firstly, Octopus F1 Slivki grew in height by 3.5 m, became taller than the apple tree and continued to grow upwards. Secondly, on many stepchildren there were brushes with cherry, ovoid, dense tomatoes up to 12 pcs. in each. Yes, the species of these plants is very unusual. I really liked this idea, so I will repeat it next year. I will definitely plant the Octopus and the fruitful, ribbed variety Etuol. But the place for planting, taking into account the scope of their branches, I will choose another, free from other plants and buildings - tomato trees need space.

sweet tomatoes

What surprised me the most was that there was not a single yellow leaf on the tomato trees! And in the greenhouse and on individual tomatoes in the open field, I already struggled with late blight.

The most important thing to remember when growing tomato trees is that they need a different approach!

Do not pinch them, often water them: in the heat, a bucket of water for each bush, and when the fruits are tied, feed them with infusions of herbs, nutritious compote and be sure to tie them up.

I even had to cut off some of the leaves, as they are very large and covered the fruits. I want to note that in my greenhouse, tall tomatoes grow up to 3 meters or more, but I grow them in 1-2 stems and constantly stepchild. Due to the limited area and regular pinching, indeterminate varieties in the greenhouse cannot reveal and show their full potential, all their beauty, all that they are capable of. And there is something to show. On August 30, we collected two large buckets of tomatoes from each tomato tree. Despite the cool (only 10° at night) weather, they continued to grow and set fruit.

In general, 2014 is a fruitful year for tomatoes, and this abundance does not bother me at all, because I have a wonderful and very simple recipe for pickled tomatoes called “Sweet Tomatoes”. They turn out very tasty, both adults and children love them. Of all stocks, Sweet Tomatoes run out first.

Here is the recipe, at the bottom of a sterilized 3-liter jar put a leaf of celery, tomatoes, 10 black peppercorns, 10 pcs. cloves, pour boiling water and leave for 10 minutes, covering the jar with a lid. Then pour the water into a saucepan, add a glass of granulated sugar, 2 tbsp. l. (with a slide) salt, boil, pour 4 tbsp. l. vinegar (9%) and pour boiling marinade into a jar. Cover with lid and roll up. Turn the jar upside down and leave to cool completely.

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How to make warm beds in spring: instructions

Recently, many summer residents have been arranging so-called “warm beds” in their plots - high rectangular structures filled with compost, branches, leaves and fertile soil. In the spring, rod arcs are installed above their sides, and the film is stretched. This design allows you to plant seedlings 2-4 weeks earlier than usual. Make warm beds usually in the fall. However, if desired, you can arrange them in the spring. The main thing is not to use fresh manure as a lining layer. So, let's see how to make warm beds in the spring.

Material selection

The sides of such ridges are most often made of edged, fairly thick (20 mm) boards. This material does not conduct heat well and is very easy to process. Sometimes they use for boards and flat slate. This material is more durable than wood, but it retains heat worse. In addition, when using it, it is imperative to make a rigid frame from a thin profile pipe. Otherwise, when weeding or planting seedlings, you can simply cut yourself on the sharp edges of the sides. Both wood and slate have, therefore, both their advantages and disadvantages. What kind of material to make the bumpers is up to the owners of the site to decide. Sometimes a warm bed is also made using more solid elements. For example, brick or stone. It is the most durable and reliable option. However, stone or brick beds will cost, of course, very expensive.

In the case of using slate or wood to support the sides, it will also be necessary to prepare a profile pipe. Arcs can be made from a metal rod with a diameter of 8 mm or from PVC pipes. The film for warm beds is used standard technical polyethylene or designed for greenhouses.

Production of wooden boards

The question of how to make warm beds in the spring comes down, among other things, to choosing the right size. The height of the sides of this design is usually 40 cm. In this case, the roots of the plants will receive enough heat. Yes, and it will be more convenient to process the bed. Experienced gardeners do not recommend making the width more than 80 cm. The optimal parameter is 60 cm. The length of the frame can be any.

It is better to collect beds in the spring, when the garden is still too damp, not on the spot, but in a workshop or somewhere in the yard, in a dry place. Wooden sides are made as follows:

  • The ends of the beds are assembled. They are made from pieces of a 60 cm board. Two corner pieces from a profile pipe are nailed to each from both edges. In this way, the ends of the boards are made for all the beds.
  • Next, sections of the profile pipe with a step of about 2 meters are screwed to the future long sides.
  • Then the latter are attached to the corner profile pipes on the end elements.
  • The resulting structures are transferred to the garden, installed in the right place and leveled. It is not necessary to dig the ground under the frame or even remove the sod.

The device of a warm bed is continued in the spring by pulling together the opposite profiles of the sides with a rod (in pairs). This will give the structure rigidity. If this is not done, the bed will simply open. In particular, carrots and other root crops are strongly "bred" on the sides.

How to bend a rod correctly

How to do warm bed spring is no longer a question for you. In order for the seedlings to feel even better in it, the structure in April-May, before the establishment of stable warm weather, will need to be covered with a film. It is stretched on arcs, which can also be made independently. To make such supports neat, you should first make a simple template. To do this, an arc of the required radius and length is drawn on a piece of plywood. Further, along the resulting contour, nails are stuffed (up to half). At the ends of the arc, they should be hammered in two at the same level. Then each rod is simply bent over the nails.

How to make slate sides

In this case, the frame is pre-assembled from a profile pipe. Fastening is usually done with bolts. If the farm has the appropriate equipment, the frame can be welded. The pipe should be painted before fixing the slate.

Since the beds made of this material are very heavy, it is better to transfer the welded frames and install them in the chosen place in the garden. Further, the slate itself is attached to the structural elements (from inside the frame). Fixation in this case is also made with bolts.

How to fill a garden

So, we have figured out how to make warm beds in the spring. Now let's see what you need to fill them with to get the best effect of heating the roots of plants. First of all, the beds should be properly positioned. Usually finished frames are placed in the direction from north to south. So the plants will be illuminated longer: in the morning from the east side, in the afternoon - from above and in the evening - from the west. Warm beds are not installed in the shade. Otherwise, a lot of nitrates are formed in the soil in the first year.

Warm beds are filled (according to the rules of composting) in layers in the following order:

  • Drainage is arranged from branches, rotten boards, logs, etc. First, large fractions are laid, then smaller ones.
  • Organic matter is laid on the drainage. When laying, you should alternate between carbonaceous (dry foliage, paper, old rags, chopped sunflower stalks) and nitrogenous layers (tops, grass, food waste, rotted manure, etc.). To speed up the decomposition process, it is worth pouring organics with special biological preparations. At the last stage, it should be tamped.

A week later, after the bed warms up well, garden soil is poured into it. In order for the roots of the plants not to burn out, its layer should be at least 25-30 cm. On this, the device of a warm bed in the spring can be considered finished. All other actions can only be aimed at improving its performance.

How to make a greenhouse

Part of one of the warm beds can be covered with a small mini-greenhouse. As a frame for such a structure, it is allowed to use a painted metal rod, beam or pvc pipes. The walls, door, window and roof are usually made of polycarbonate. Knocking down the frame of the desired shape will not be difficult. When attaching polycarbonate, observe certain rules. This material is able to expand with an increase / decrease in air temperature. Therefore, it should be fixed to the frame using special self-tapping screws with thermal washers. Holes for them are drilled a little larger than the rods of diameter. The device of a warm bed with a greenhouse will allow you to plant seedlings even earlier. It will take a little time to make it.

Structures in the greenhouse

Usually warm beds are arranged right in the open air. However, you can also make them in a greenhouse already installed in the garden. Such structures are assembled from the same materials. The question of how to make warm beds in the spring in a greenhouse is not technologically complicated at all. The method of their manufacture entirely and completely repeats the one discussed above. The only thing is that the beds in this case should not be made too high (20 cm).

The device of a warm bed in the greenhouse will help to get an even earlier harvest. However, since the air temperature inside this room will be higher than outside, it is important to ensure that the roots do not overheat. At a soil temperature of 30-45 degrees, plant growth slows down. It is also worth arranging drip irrigation in the beds.

What plants and how to plant

Since a lot of nitrogen accumulates in the soil of such beds in the first two years, it is not recommended to plant nitrate-accumulating crops during this period. These include greens (dill, onion, lettuce, spinach, etc.), beets and radishes. In the first year, it is best to plant pumpkin, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers or eggplants on a warm bed, that is, plants that require a high content of nutrients in the soil. In the second year, cabbage, celery or lettuce are usually planted in their place.

Many summer residents advise, after harvesting early crops, to sow warm beds with green manure. This will replenish the supply of nutrients. In addition, the soil prepared in this way does not require digging in the spring. All that needs to be done is to deepen the remains of dead green manure by loosening. How to make warm beds in the spring (photos of such structures can be seen on the page), as well as how to plant seedlings on them, you now know. What else needs to be done to facilitate the care of crops and accelerate the ripening of the crop? Read about it below.

Mulching

Most often, sawdust or straw is used for this purpose. It would be very good to close the soil under the plants also with mowed dried grass. First, it should be chopped with a hatchet. Soil microorganisms begin to process the grass from the place of the cut. Therefore, such a litter will decompose faster, while releasing the necessary for horticultural crops carbon dioxide. Mulching in warm beds, among other things, allows the soil to retain moisture longer. Also, a layer of organic matter or a film will prevent the growth of weeds all summer. And this, in turn, will facilitate the care of plants.

flowerbeds

How to make warm beds in the spring, you now know. However, what if there is no material or time for their manufacture, but you want to plant tomatoes early? In this case, you can try to build warm flower beds. Their difference from the beds is primarily a smaller size. As bumpers, you can use, for example, old car tires, set in three rows. Filling in this case is done in the same way. In the middle is to stick a stake or rod. They will support the film in the spring.

Of course, many crops on such flower beds will not fit. But it is quite possible to grow several tomato bushes, cucumbers, onions, pumpkins or zucchini on them.

As you can see, the question of how to make a warm garden bed in spring with your own hands is not particularly difficult. With quality materials and skillful hands prefabricated structures comfortable, reliable and long lasting. Have a good harvest!

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Warm beds - a way to get an early harvest

The special pride of every summer resident is the early harvest grown by him with his own hands. Of course, in order to get an early harvest of vegetables and berries, you can use a greenhouse or greenhouse. But there is an easier and more economical way - to make warm beds with your own hands.

It is better to lay warm beds in September or October - then in the spring there will be more free time for planting. But if for some reason you could not make a warm bed in the fall, you can arrange it in the spring.

How to make warm beds

Start by choosing a place for a warm bed. An open sunny space is best.

The sizes of the beds are different:

  • length is arbitrary;
  • width 40-60 cm; 60-80 cm and even 100-120 cm;
  • height 60-100 cm.

Further, to create a warm bed with your own hands, you can dig a trench at least 40 cm deep. Instead of a trench, you can make a wooden box according to the size of the bed with a height of 60 to 100 cm. There is another option - to make a warm bed combined: it will be partially in the ground, and partly in a box. It should be noted that the heating of warm beds in the box occurs faster than those in the trench.

Next we make the base. If you have peat soils and water quickly leave, then you can lay a layer of sawdust scalded with boiling water on the bottom of the future bed or cover the base with pieces of old unbleached linen or cotton fabrics. Such bedding should be impregnated with a solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of 2 g per 10 liters of water, spending 2 liters of solution per 1 sq.m.

The “bottom” made in this way will help to ensure that water and nutrients will remain longer in the root zone of planted plants.

If, on the contrary, you have dense loamy soils, then you need to make drainage. To do this, branches are laid at the bottom of the trench, then the trench is filled with organic residues. It can be tops, foliage, oat screenings, hay, chaff, straw, manure, paper, or any other organic matter.

Sprinkle all this on top with chalk or wood ash (1.5-2 cups per 1 sq. M).

Organics in a warm bed are laid in layers of 20-25 cm and treated with the biological product "Radiance" or another. As a result of irrigation with preparations, organic matter quickly turns into humus and the plants receive the necessary nutrition and develop properly.

Note that organics are laid in a warm bed for planting cucumbers in the fall, but it is necessary to treat it with the Shining biological product only in the spring.

The next layer of a warm bed is a specially prepared soil (mixture). Recipe for the mixture:

  1. 6 buckets of peat, humus or garden soil.
  2. 1 bucket of sand.
  3. 1 bucket sawdust (optional)

All components are mixed. Then add fertilizer: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate, 3 tbsp. spoons of wood ash, 1 teaspoon of urea, 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate, 1 teaspoon of zinc sulfate, 1.5 teaspoons boric acid. This recipe is recognized as a classic for fertilizing the soil for warm beds. If you strictly follow the principles organic farming and do not use chemical fertilizers, then you can limit yourself to applying only ash and other organic fertilizers to the soil.

It turned out a multi-layered and rather high cake for a warm bed, which now needs to be poured with warm water at the rate of 5-10 buckets per 1 sq. m.

A bed prepared in the spring will take time to warm up. It is necessary to cover it with a film for 1.5 - 2 weeks. The cover is then removed; if necessary, the bed is again watered with warm water. After the bed settles, it will be possible to start planting. Your warm bed is ready to receive crops or seedlings.

  1. Along the entire ridge in the center, make a small roller of the earth, dividing the bed into two parts. This is necessary so that the irrigation water flows directly into the wells.
  2. On both sides of the roller, make fairly large holes at a distance of 60 cm from each other, 30 cm deep and with a diameter of a three-liter jar, with the help of a jar you can form holes by lightly tamping the ground.
  3. Put dry seeds into each hole (at the bottom) with your hand: cucumbers 4 seeds each, zucchini - 2 seeds each, pumpkin - 1 each. From above, cover with a layer of earth according to the agrotechnics of crop cultivation (from 2 to 5 cm).
  4. After sowing the hole, it is necessary to lightly water and cover the finished bed with a translucent film, pressing it tightly on all sides to the soil. Use a dense (reinforced) film. Such a shelter will last more than one year.
  5. By the time the plants have more than one true leaf, make a cross-shaped cut in the film over the hole and tuck the corners inward, and straighten the sprouts from under the film. Now they will not burn out and will harden in time.

It may turn out that the weather and temperature are not yet suitable for planting and the threat of return frosts remains. In this case, the bed should be covered with lutrasil (covering material), you can put several arcs for a while and cover the bed again along them. Such measures will be enough to protect the landings from the cold and from burning under the film. After the threat of frost return has passed, remove all shelters above the bed, leave only the film on the ground. She won't let her grow weed grass, and the vegetables on it will be clean.

The positive effect of warm beds

  1. No weeding needed. All weeds, not being able to go outside, burn and rot under the film, turning into natural fertilizer.
  2. The minimum amount of water is spent on watering the plants, since it can be carried out directly in the holes, so even on hot days it is enough to water the plantings 1-2 times a week.
  3. There is no need to ask the neighbors to open or close, water the plantings in your absence. Plants in such a bed in a "film shirt" are warm at night and not hot during the day.
  4. Vegetables in such a garden will always be clean.
  5. If you make warm beds in the garden every year, then there is no need to make a compost heap. The organic matter that has decayed over the season in a warm bed is compost.

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warm bed

How does it work

Thanks to its device, a warm bed creates favorable conditions for growing plants. Organic matter (manure, rotten straw, food waste, fallen leaves, mowed grass), with which you filled the garden bed, rots, forming a large number of nutrients and releasing carbon dioxide. Plants respond to such a gift with increased growth and health.

Another plus of a warm bed is that when organic waste decomposes, a large amount of heat is also released in the roots of plants. In such a heated bed, seedlings can be planted 3 weeks earlier than usual, which means that the period of plant development increases. Thanks to this heating, the plants can easily withstand a temperature drop of up to 5 degrees. All this has a positive effect on the crop.

Why do you need a warm bed

Seedlings planted in a warm bed develop faster, are not affected by diseases, plants become stronger and healthier than usual. Weeds do not grow here, the applied fertilizers remain in place, and after using the beds you will also get humus - the most valuable fertilizer. As a result, the yield increases almost three times! At the same time, caring for landings is quite convenient.

To use the land rationally and find a place for all the vegetables and berries that you love, carefully plan your site. When planning, pay attention to well-lit areas, because that is where the beds are best placed. Best Option it will be, if you can organize 4 beds for alternating vegetable crops, this will provide a crop rotation. Accordingly, the plants will be strong, healthy and actively growing.

Types of warm beds

A warm bed can be high, or it can look like a trench. The filling principle is the same for them, the difference is that for high beds you will need to make a box, and for a trench - go deep into the ground by 0.4-0.5m. For a deep bed, we dig a trench measuring 1x6m (this optimal size, but you choose the one that suits you).

A high bed has one advantage: in early spring it will begin to warm up earlier, since its walls will be under the first rays of the sun.

You can also build a combined warm bed, the lower part of which will be in the ground, and the upper part in the box. You choose.

How to DIY

You can prepare a warm bed both in early spring and autumn. You will have to try a little and spend a little more time, but the effort expended will return to you with a good harvest.

So let's get started:

  • we dig a trench 1m wide, 0.4-0.5m deep. Length is arbitrary
  • at the bottom of the trench we lay any wood waste (cut branches, boards, tree roots, sawdust)
  • we fill the trench with food and garden waste, paper, mowed grass, dry leaves, tops
  • we fall asleep rotted manure. Preferred - horse, bird and rabbit. Cow and pig dung burn a little worse, but are also suitable for bookmarking
  • add ash (if any)
  • we fill the bed with humus with a layer of 10-15 cm (this is all that has been rotted in your compost heap for a year). If you don’t have such a mixture, then we fill the bed with soil that remains after digging the trench

For a high warm bed, you do not need to dig a deep trench, but you will need to build a box of the appropriate height.

  • if there is no manure? You can replace manure with bales of straw, which must be filled with a solution of chicken manure at the rate of 1 bucket of manure per 50 liters of water
  • a warm bed must be constantly watered: moisture is necessary for microorganisms that develop inside
  • use the beds all season long. At first, it is convenient to grow greens in them (radishes, dill, parsley, lettuce). At the beginning of summer, plant heat-loving plants: cucumbers, eggplants, tomatoes, peppers, watermelons, melons
  • a slight slope to the south side will help plantings to evenly receive a lot of solar heat and light
  • it is convenient to work with beds of small width. Approaches from all sides allow you to cultivate the soil and check all plantings without trampling the bed.

What to make a warm bed

A high warm bed can be made from the most various materials available: board, slate, plastic, metal, stone, brick. If not only functionality and usefulness are important to you, but also beauty, then you will have to try a little more. However, such a garden will please the eye and become part of the overall landscape.

High beds arranged with the help of gabions are ready-made composters. All season you lay plant residues in them, and in the fall you fall asleep with soil - the bed is ready for the next season.

Picturesque look and give aromas of beds with spicy plants. Such flower beds especially need watering.

From several beds, you can create a composition in the form of a flower, pattern, geometric shapes. Such a creative approach will decorate your site and make it more interesting. Use garden figurines, vases, bird drinkers, scarecrows as decorations.

Decorative borders are another way to make an ordinary garden bed an original landscape object. Depending on the style of the garden, the border can be made in the form of a fence for rustic style, decorate with a mosaic for the Mediterranean, the stone will remind you of Italy.

Make the aisles between the beds wide enough so that it is convenient for you to care for the plants.

A warm bed can even fit in a barrel! For example with such small area, you can get a pretty decent harvest.

Caring for such beds is as simple as possible, and the beds themselves become the highlight of the garden and give it volume.

Regardless of the size of our dachas, plots and gardens, we always hope to get a good harvest of various fruits, vegetables and berries from them. If everything is more or less clear with fruits, then with vegetable beds questions begin. In order to rationally and with maximum benefit use the territory of the site, we suggest you build warm beds.

decorme.com

| chernoplodka.ru

Tomatoes are heat-loving plants and in our unpredictable climate in the open field do not always give a good harvest. It would seem that the best way out is to install a greenhouse.

But after all, not everyone has the opportunity to visit twice a day for garden plot to first open it, and then, in the evening, close it. And without this possibility, any greenhouse can become a real gas chamber for plants and a completely useless thing.

But if you arrange high wooden beds for tomatoes and other crops on the site, you can solve many problems at once:

The increase in yield and its earlier ripening in comparison with open ground occurs due to the comfortable conditions in which the plants are located: they are warmer, because they are higher and from below, heat and nutrition from decaying organic matter enters the roots. It is convenient to look after plants: it is not necessary to bend down low. There are fewer weeds - they do not germinate through the wooden sidewalls. In the spring, it is not necessary to dig up the ground, it is enough to walk with a Fokin flat cutter, it is not necessary to form the sides of the ridges. After such a bed has worked for a couple or three years (do not forget about crop rotation), the gardener gets a decent amount of high-quality compost. It can be scattered over the beds, and the box can be refilled plant remains. Box-beds can be installed directly on the virgin lands without developing the site. If the box is not rigidly fixed in the ground, after 5 years, and if it is necessary to develop the site as soon as possible, it can be moved to a new location next year. And where he stood - to break the usual garden bed. Instant transformation into a greenhouse: you only need to build a light one in advance wooden frame or fix the arcs on which the film or covering material is thrown. Before planting tomatoes and after harvesting, you can plant early vegetables: radishes, lettuce, spinach. Such beds look more neat and serve as decoration of the site.

High bed for tomatoes

It is advisable to arrange it in low, swampy areas. In the regions of evergreen tomatoes (North-West, Siberia and the Urals), they can be used to get excellent tomato crops without a greenhouse.

The usual width of a wooden box is about 75 centimeters, the length is any, but the height is from 20 centimeters to 70.

It should be remembered that the higher the sides, the warmer the plants will be during late frosts, but the faster the soil will dry out in them.

Work is best done in the fall (then the soil will settle over the winter), but in the spring you can try this method. First, the future ridge is marked, then a beam (4 * 4 cm) or metal pipes are driven into the corners of the quadrangles to the height of the box. And then boards are fixed on them in rows. Instead of boards, you can use timber or logs. This will make the structure heavier, and it will become much more expensive, but the service life will also extend significantly. At the bottom, it is recommended to throw a fine metal mesh (from rodents) and lay a number of empty plastic bottles. The base is ready.

  • Wooden beds for tomatoes

Now we fill the box with various organics: cuttings of branches, plant residues (except those from Solanaceae), vegetable peelings, gray cardboard, fallen leaves, rotten grass, mowed grass, sawdust. You can not add manure - for nutrition tomatoes it will be quite enough. A layer (about 30 cm) of fertile soil is poured over the garbage, watered hot water and cover with a film until the time of planting seedlings.

Wooden beds for tomatoes

Some gardeners, in order to extend the life of the structure, process everything wooden elements antiseptics or used oil, and black-and-white newspapers are added to the box. But for those who care about their health - this is not an option.

Buried high bed

Where climatic conditions do not allow to build such tall structures, but you want to arrange a warm, nutrient-filled bed, you can most deepen the puff pastry below the soil level, leaving a box of 1-2 boards at the top.

Features of care when growing tomatoes in a high garden

Care is a little different. There is enough food in such a bed for 5 years, but it will have to be watered more often. In anticipation of frost, experienced gardeners lay out dark plastic bottles of water in the garden, protect plants from the cold with the tops of 5 liter plastic bottles, cover with foil and non-woven material.

In order for the topsoil to dry out less, plantings should be mulched and plant waste sprinkled throughout the summer. After the harvest is harvested, it would be good to plant green manure on warm beds.

Issue price

A wooden garden bed can be almost for nothing if you use your own own materials and do everything yourself. In principle, even a weak woman can cope with this work. small wooden boxes from pallets can generally be assembled on a wide adhesive tape. And the gaps between the boards should be filled with boards or simply wrap the box around in several layers of packaging stretch film.

Experienced gardeners know how to organize the cultivation of tomatoes in the open field. Tomatoes grow in almost every garden. It's hard to imagine without them private house or give. Tomatoes can be consumed fresh or harvested for the winter, canned or frozen. What are the features of growing tomatoes in an open garden?

Growing tomatoes in the open field is quite common, since not everyone has greenhouses and hotbeds. The optimal time for planting tomato seedlings is the end of May or the beginning of June. Planting tomatoes in open ground is not very difficult. For this purpose, you can purchase ready-made adult plants or plant tomato seeds for open ground, bought in a store or on the market.

To grow tomatoes, you must follow the following rules:

  • select the optimal plant varieties;
  • fertilize the land;
  • provide tomatoes with sufficient insolation;
  • provide proper care.

Some tomato varieties are not suitable for outdoor cultivation. They will be subject to temperature fluctuations and yields will be low.

How to choose the right variety

The choice of a variety of tomatoes for open ground is the most important task. There are short and tall varieties of tomatoes. For unprotected soil, the so-called determinant varieties of tomatoes are widely used. Their growth is unlimited. Such tomatoes bloom constantly and are the most suitable for growing outside greenhouses and hotbeds. There are also superdeterminant varieties.

Tomatoes for open ground are represented mainly by undersized and early ripe varieties. Those plants that ripen quickly are smaller. The most commonly used varieties of tomatoes for open ground are:

  • "Sultan";
  • "Demidov";
  • "Northern beauty";
  • "Snezhana";
  • "Blagovest";
  • "Eugene";
  • "Aurora";
  • "Golden Queen";
  • "Kemerovo";
  • "Ballerina";
  • "Uncle Styopa";
  • "Scarlet Mustang";
  • "Laura";
  • "Siberian trump card";
  • "Sensei".

These are the best varieties of tomatoes for open ground. Determinant varieties have the following properties:

  • compact;
  • give few stepchildren;
  • quickly bear fruit;
  • small height.

These tomatoes include varieties "Alpha", "Pyshka", "Stolypin", "Aphrodite", "Explosion". Tall tomatoes are most often grown in greenhouses and greenhouses. When buying seedlings or seeds, you need to pay attention to the size, shape and weight of fruits, ripening dates. Some tomatoes are better for salads, while others are better for canning.

Land preparation

Not everyone knows how to grow tomatoes outdoors and get a good harvest. Tomatoes like to grow in a sunny area, so it is not advisable to plant them in the shade behind the house. The land must be protected from the wind. Loamy, sandy or humus-rich soil is optimal. It should not be heavy and contain a lot of clay.

It is best to plant seedlings in those beds on which cucumbers, onions or carrots previously grew. It is not recommended to plant plants where potatoes grew. The land there contains many pests (larvae of the wireworm, Colorado potato beetle).

A good neighbor for tomatoes is strawberries (strawberries). With this neighborhood, the yield of both crops increases.

If possible, then you can determine the acidity of the soil. The optimum pH for tomatoes is 6-7. Before planting tomatoes, you need to fertilize the soil in the fall. Compost, humus, peat, superphosphate, ammonium nitrate are used to enrich the soil. It is important that every year you need to change the place for planting tomatoes. Ridges for seedlings should be 100-120 cm wide and 15-20 cm high. It is better if they are located from north to south, and the distance between them is at least 70 cm.

Tomato Planting Technique

Growing tomatoes outdoors includes proper fit plants. Low-growing tomatoes for open ground are arranged in rows. The interval between plants is 30-35 cm. A distance of 40-45 cm should be left between rows. If medium-sized varieties are available, then the distance is increased by 10 cm.

There are the following planting options:

  • square nest;
  • tape-nesting;
  • under film.

In the first option, the bed is divided into squares of 70 cm in size. In the presence of determinant varieties, 2-3 plants should be planted in 1 nest at once. If there are early ripening varieties that give wide bushes, then 3 plants are planted in one hole. Mid-season and late-ripening varieties planted singly. Landing is carried out in late May-early June, when the threat of frost has passed.

Planting tomatoes in open ground should be carried out together with a clod of earth. Pre potted or plastic container with the plant you need to pour a little water. This will facilitate the process of removing the earthen clod. Early varieties of tomatoes are best planted in the evening, when the air temperature drops slightly. The depth of the holes for planting tomatoes should be equal to the depth of the pots in which they grew earlier. This is necessary in order not to damage the roots during planting.

Water must be poured into the dug holes. 1 bucket is enough for 8-10 holes. Humus is added to the wells along with mineral fertilizer in a ratio of 3: 1. Do not apply too much fertilizer. An earthen ball with a plant is placed vertically in the hole and sprinkled with earth. For more rapid development the root system is required to cut off part of the leaves from the seedlings.

How to tie tomatoes

There are the following ways to garter tomato seedlings:

  • with wooden stakes;
  • tapestry;
  • with the help of caps;
  • cellular.

Tomatoes need to be tied up so that the stems do not break, do not bend and develop better. The garter provides better access to the sun's rays. In case of heavy rain or wind, tied tomatoes will be reliably protected. Tying facilitates the process of caring for plants (watering, spraying, loosening). During the fruiting of tomatoes, the fruits will not be located on the ground. This will protect them from pests.

The tying protects the tomatoes from rotting. Every gardener must know not only how to properly plant tomatoes, but also how to tie them up.

The easiest way to tie is with pegs. For the manufacture of stakes, any material (wood, plastic, metal) can be used. The height of the stakes depends on the height of the seedlings. Tall tomatoes need to be tied up with stakes 2-2.5 m long.

The stakes should be 20-30 cm larger than the plants. They are driven into the ground to a depth of 20-30 cm. Thus, the height of the driven stakes corresponds to the height of the plants. Stakes should be placed at a distance of 10 cm from the plants. Used for tying synthetic materials. It can be twine or a piece of fabric. The line won't fit.

If there is a large plantation, and the number of tomatoes is in the hundreds, then in this situation it is more convenient to tie the trellis. This method is suitable in the presence of tall plants. For this, wooden poles are installed, to which horizontal slats are attached. Instead of rails, thick wire can be used. It should be located in several rows. As the tomatoes grow, they will be attached to the support.

Formation of open ground tomatoes (video)

Caring for planted tomatoes

Care includes removing stepsons, fertilizing, watering, spraying, weeding beds, pollination, loosening the soil, protection from possible frost.

The technology for growing tomatoes is simple, but from the owners land plot it takes some effort and patience.

Even the presence the best varieties tomato for open ground is not a guarantee of a large crop. If there should be a frost in the coming days, the tomatoes need to be piled up and covered with burlap or film. The technology of growing tomatoes necessarily includes watering. This crop does not like frequent watering. Plants need to be watered abundantly, but rarely. After it, a small crust should form on the bed.

The first time the plants need to be watered only 1-2 weeks after planting. During this time, tomatoes must adapt to new conditions. For irrigation, only warm and settled water is used. It is recommended to water tomatoes once a week (in May and the beginning of the month) and 2-3 times a week (in the middle and end of summer). Watering is carried out with a bucket under the root. The optimal time for watering is evening.

For better pollination of tomatoes, it is advisable to plant mustard or basil on the garden bed. At least 2 times a month, side shoots (stepchildren) should be removed. They interfere with the normal development of the main trunk. Young shoots are cut off with a knife or scissors, and longer ones need to be pinched off.

For fertilizer use the following means:

  • mullein solution;
  • nitrophoska;
  • chicken manure;
  • ammonium nitrate;
  • superphosphate.

Top dressing is carried out once every 10 days. The first feeding is organized 2 weeks after planting the tomatoes in the garden. Thus, to obtain a large number of tomatoes, you need to choose the most productive varieties that are well suited for open ground.

Tomato seedlings: from picking to planting (video)

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Boris Andreev 10/17/2014 | 28304

Each culture needs its own conditions for good growth and fruiting. Learn how to prepare your tomato beds to grow a good crop.

The first rule is to start preparing the garden in advance, in the fall. To begin with, we choose a sunny place (tomatoes love heat), these are the southern slopes and sides of the site. You should also provide protection from cold northern winds.

The best tomato planting scheme is a two-row tape. This means the distance between plants in a row is 30-60 cm (depending on the variety) and between rows is 80 cm. That is, the width of the beds should be 150-160 cm, the length is up to you.

Good precursors for tomato are about cucumbers, cabbage, onions, pumpkin, potatoes, carrots, zucchini. Crops after which you can not plant a tomato are all nightshade: tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, physalis.

Tomatoes are especially unpretentious in relation to soils. It is especially well possible to grow a rich crop on loamy and sandy loamy soils. But it is important to take into account the acidity of the soil, it should be pH 6-6.7. This means that tomatoes need soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Determine soil acidity can be on weeds on it. If rosemary, creeping ranunculus, sorrel grow abundantly on your site, then there are acidic soils on the site. Indicator papers are also on sale, with their help you can determine the acid content in the soil.

acidic soils needs to be processed ash every 2 years or lime every 4 years. For ash processing, it is necessary to distribute about 2 cups of ash per 1 sq.m of soil and close it with a rake before autumn. When processing with limestone, 200 g of limestone is needed per 1 sq.m.

To prepare the beds for tomatoes in the fall, up to 1-5 kg ​​of humus, 2 tbsp. phosphoric and 1-2 tbsp. potash fertilizers, and nitrogen fertilizers (1 tablespoon) in the spring.

Tomatoes are very susceptible fungal diseases, especially when waterlogged. Therefore, it is desirable to treat a bed for tomatoes with antifungal drugs. It is not recommended to apply fresh manure to the soil, as this can lead to an increase in the incidence of powdery mildew and fattening of the plant.

The mechanical preparation of the beds for tomatoes consists in a deep (up to 25 cm) autumn digging the soil held in October. At the same time, they do not break the earth, but leave large clods before winter. This will help the retention of snow, and as a result - a good moisture charge and the rapid "ripening" of the soil in the spring.

In the spring, it is enough to dig a little, break up the clods with a rake, level the surface for easy marking and planting. Then we mark the surface according to the scheme described above. We prepare the holes and you can plant seedlings.

You also need to take care that your plants do not get burned in the scorching spring or summer sun. To do this, you need to build an "umbrella" over the entire garden. It is best to use wooden posts, they need to be hammered into the ground at the corners of the beds and along its long sides after 1 m. You choose the height yourself. A wire should be run along the top of the posts, and a non-woven material should be attached to it with clothespins. This design is made quickly and easy to operate (if necessary, remove the material). The bed is ready.

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He put together a box 70 cm wide and 3.5 m long. A layer of about 25-30 cm of soil was poured on top. Well, everything was poured with hot water and covered with old frames. So that there were no cracks, she covered the top with a film. The earth warmed up quickly.

Well save the garden plot from flooding.

Approximately in a week, when the temperature of the soil in the garden becomes about 25 ° C, we fill it with fertile soil or a mixture of compost and soil from the site. The layer should be no less than 20-30 cm.

Benefits of managing according to the Mitlider method

I will continue such experiments, especially since it allows me to test a large number of varieties.

By mid-May, bottles can usually be removed. Seedlings grow strong, stocky. I plant monthly seedlings in early June. Surprisingly, all the seedlings are already with buds. The bushes are not elongated, strong, healthy. Adapted to weather conditions. Because from mid-May, only at night I cover with frames. And a week and a half before landing and at night I leave it open. Naturally, I watch the nighttime temperatures. If it's too low, then I cover it.

Vegetable growing is a great science! The experience of gardeners using the Mitliderad method and experimenting with vegetable crops gives a generous harvest at a time when many gardeners do not even think about the harvest.

Tomatoes are a very capricious vegetable, their cultivation has its own characteristics. Tomatoes are poorly adapted to growth in wet weather, susceptible to late blight. When planted according to the Mitlider, tomatoes give high yields. Modern vegetable growing makes it possible to use hybrids and varieties for harvesting.

The device of a narrow bed in the garden

In narrow beds, the seeds are planted to a shallower depth: from 1 to 6 cm, depending on the type of plant. In small seeds, germination is checked before sowing. Seedlings are planted in rows, along the sides.

The ridges are made 45 cm wide. The aisles between the beds are from 90 to 105 cm. After harvesting, vegetable waste is placed in the aisles. The technology of vegetable growing on narrow beds requires their strict horizontal arrangement, you can arrange the beds parallel to each other.

If a garden is not a luxury, but a means of subsistence, narrow beds are the best way for planting vegetables. The width of the beds is 45 cm, and the distance between them is 90 cm. There are no weeds between the rows; vegetables ripen on time, are not susceptible to diseases. Seedlings are fed on time and in a balanced way with all the necessary elements. Vegetables grown in narrow beds are provided with root nutrition; there is no oppression of some cultures by others.

Every year, amateur vegetable growers plant many varieties of domestic and foreign vegetables in their backyards. Farming is a fascinating, creative process. Its results are aimed at obtaining a sufficient amount of vegetables from a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot. The Mitlider method came to the aid of gardeners, spreading throughout all regions and delighting people with good harvests of vegetables.

Four 5-liter bottles of water entered the garden in width, 11 in length. I cut off the bottom of the bottles with a knife, made holes under each, into which I sowed five to eight tomato seeds.

The introduction of nutrient mixtures into the soil according to the Mitlider method

Thanks to all these advantages of warm beds, their use will help you get an earlier harvest.

We install borders along the beds to keep organic matter within the warm beds and protect it from weeds.

After planting in the OG, the seedlings literally stand “sad” for only one day. Without any shelter and cover from the sun. The rest of the care is as usual.

I often get asked questions about a warm bed. Therefore, despite the fact that such an article already exists, I decided to talk about my experience of growing tomato seedlings in a warm garden.

Growing tomatoes in the garden early varieties. Growing seedlings begin in early April. Tomato seedlings are planted on the ridges in May. Produce film cover. Without shelter, seeds are sown from April 15. In mid-season varieties, seeds are sown in March. Tomatoes of different varieties are planted at different distances from each other. It depends on the presence of stems in the bush (one, two or three) and the number of stepchildren.

How to fertilize before planting according to the Mitlider


When planting cabbage, no additional fertilizer is required in the wells.

The length of narrow ridges does not matter. Vegetable growing can be carried out on 9-meter beds, and the beds bigger size use for large farms of 10-20 acres. It is appropriate to create a set of beds of different lengths from 2 to 10 meters. Most often, the entire plot is divided into 4.5-meter beds.

I drew a diagram with the names of the planted varieties in a notebook. Seeds were sown dry, then watered with warm water. I covered the wells with bottles, window frames on top, and then covered everything with lutrasil.

- Hello, my beloved hostess. I subscribe to the newspaper for only six months (since July last year).​

When arranging a warm bed, you can not use paper printed publications(newspapers and magazines), as well as tops of tomatoes, potatoes and cucumbers.

For the season - three crops of cabbage

Do you know that garden beds are warm? Beds made according to the principle of a compost heap are called warm, because when the used organic matter decomposes, heat is released, therefore the temperature in such a bed is 2-3 ° C higher than the temperature of the surrounding soil, which means that plants can be planted on it early and fruits will ripen on them earlier too. To create warm beds, you need to work hard once, and then just maintain their fertility by simply stacking any organic garbage from the yard inside the beds throughout the season.

My bed is 1 meter wide and 3 meters long. It is five holes wide and fifteen long. Thus, 75 varieties are placed in the ridge. Each variety, four, five bushes. Minimum 300 seedling roots.​

I have been preparing the beds since autumn. But if you didn't make it, no problem. And spring will help you grow seedlings without any hassle. We have prepared high boxes, which should fit 30 cm of organic matter, 20 cm of soil. And, accordingly, a place for seedling height.

Irrigation technology for cabbage. Pest control

The harvest of tomatoes depends on the light. The less light, the less fruit. A tomato bush is formed into one, two or three stems. One stem in varieties Malyshok, Yarilo. Single stem tomatoes are pruned during the growing season. All stepchildren are removed weekly. After the formation of the fruit, remove all the leaves that cover them. The apical shoot is removed on August 1.

During the season on a narrow bed is grown: early cabbage 2 - 3 varieties, medium - 2 varieties, late - 4 varieties. Seedlings of cabbage are prepared in advance. Seeds are sown in pots, the ground is fertilized with Zeolorg or other fertilizer. You can fertilize with ash and lime - fluff. 2 days before sowing seeds, the earth is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate. The seedlings are watered once with humate: after a month, the seedlings are planted on a narrow bed, in two rows, along the sides. It is possible to plant seedlings in checkerboard pattern. In Beijing cabbage, with good lighting, the distance between plants in a row is 10 cm, with insufficient lighting - 30 cm; early cabbage - from 30 to 35 cm. Compliance with these intervals is necessary when fulfilling other requirements for the Mitlider method. When planting cabbage seedlings, no additional fertilizers are required in the holes. The roots should not come into contact with wet soil, otherwise they will be injured and die.

The ridges are marked out after cleaning the site, using a set of pegs and a metal rail. Work must be carried out in the autumn: if you mark the beds in advance, then in the spring the vegetables will be planted much faster.

The Mitlider method allows you to plan narrow beds on any soil. The peculiarity of the vegetable garden on erosive soils is the blowing of the upper layer by the winds. On acidic soils, it is necessary to add calcium in the form of dolomite flour or chalk. In alkaline soils, it is added in the form of gypsum. You can not place beds in shaded areas, lowlands and slopes.

Growing tomatoes in protected ground

It is based on a process that involves growing plants in narrow beds.

But during this time I fell in love with her, probably for life. Because I have never met such an interesting and versatile newspaper. Everything in it is for the people, not for the oligarchs. And you can laugh and cry, and there are many benefits in each number. And since now for me, an avid gardener, the off season, I decided to write to you. And I will be pleased if you print the letter and it is useful for readers to learn about the experience of other gardeners.

These beds are well suited for planting:

You need to start creating a warm bed in the fall. The sequence of its creation is as follows:

Cucumbers love warmth and light.

Last year I did not have enough warm ridges. I just sowed some of the seeds in a box. The soil was well filled with organic matter. There weren't enough bottles. She covered the box only with frames and lutrasil. Seedlings have grown, survived all the cold snaps. From the cold, at times it turned just purple. The buds were not on all the bushes. But even so, she pleased me with an excellent harvest.

I am making the height of a five-liter bottle. It turns out about 80 cm. Above the ground I upholster with a dense film or cloth to prevent cold air from entering the ridge. At the organic level, such gaps are not terrible. On the contrary, air access allows organics to burn more actively.

Vegetables are subjected to standard agrotechnical care: fertilizing and watering. Additionally, fertilizers are applied during budding (wood ash 50 g) and fruit formation (magnesium sulfate 25 g/m). When budding, it is necessary to treat the tomatoes with the Epin preparation (10 drops are dissolved in 1 liter of water). To relieve stress in plants with the same drug, additional treatment is carried out after a week.

After 2 weeks, the first top dressing is done (for 10 liters of water - 1 liter of green manure, 1 tablespoon of urea). The technology for growing early cabbage recommends a second top dressing after 14 days (for 10 liters of water - 1 liter of slurry, 1 tbsp of ash). The third top dressing is when the heads are tied (for 10 liters of water - 1 liter of green slurry, 2 tbsp. Ash).

The technology for growing vegetables provides for a good outflow of water at the site of the planned beds. In the lowland, they raise the entire area under the garden by 20 cm, use the soil and pour it in sufficient quantities. Intrasoil flooring under the ground is provided. Upper layer soil is removed, a layer of wood waste is laid, 20-30 cm thick.

ParnikiTeplicy.com

My warm garden bed

Productivity is growing from year to year, but isn’t it worth giving all your strength to your favorite business?

I didn't open the beds for almost a week. She took off lutrasil only for a day, and in the evening she wrapped the garden bed again.

I want to tell you about a warm bed. Since childhood, I remember how my mother made warm beds and planted tomatoes in them. True, I did not understand this then, thinking that she was doing a lot of unnecessary work, changing the “stuffing” of these beds every year. And her varieties were not elite (now you can buy any), but folk, which she sowed from year to year.

Any vegetables (cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, etc.);

We dig a trench in a sunny place: depth 40-50cm, width not less than 40cm, length - arbitrary or we make a box from any material of the same dimensions.

The smallest bushes, I left in the garden for permanent residence, and did not regret it. The harvest was no worse than that given by the same small bushes planted in an empty place in a pepper greenhouse.

Since autumn, we fill the ridge with organic matter. As soon as the sun warms and the snow melts, I pour hot water over the organics. And I cover the ridge with frames. The organics begin to float, I add a layer of soil. I also shed the soil. And again I cover with frames.

Seedlings at the age of 28 days are planted on a narrow bed. On the early dates it is covered with foil. Landing pattern along the side, in one row.​

On the day of sowing, fertilizers are applied, which include: lime fertilizer with boron (mixture 1) and a mixture containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (mixture 2).

Growing vegetables is impossible without a source of water for irrigation. The plot under the beds should be horizontal. This is one of the main conditions when planning it for growing vegetables.​

Vegetables are grown both in narrow beds and in boxes.

By the end of April, all the seeds had sprouted, and only then did I unscrew the caps on the bottles. With the advent of heat, I gradually began to “undress” the bed.

Many years have passed, and I also became an avid gardener.

berry bushes;

We fill the trench or box: we lay branches alternately at the bottom, then - rotten pieces of wood, on top - organic matter, always alternating or evenly mixing carbon and nitrogen layers. You can put paper, dry leaves, crushed sunflower stalks, sawdust, natural fabrics, etc. into the carbon layer, and grass, potato peelings, food waste, manure into the nitrogen layer. You can use everything that will rot and give heat, while pouring everything with lime or ash.

This method of growing seedlings was inspired by my mother. She grows the earliest ones like that, unpretentious varieties. Even the later ones gave me two, three brushes of fruits. Of course, the latter have to be shot green. But in the conditions of our climate, this method of collection has to be addressed in any case. One hundred bushes of seedlings grown in the house, after planting, came under frost. Even they, on stepchildren, gave a harvest.

As soon as the soil temperature becomes above 10 degrees, I sow tomatoes. For the third year now, in our climate (middle Urals), this is April 20-21.​

Vegetable growing recommends growing cucumbers in compliance with special rules. Cucumbers do not bear fruit at a temperature of +10°C; plants do not tolerate low temperatures at night. Sensitive to fungal attack. Cucumbers have their own strategy for growing in narrow beds. use hybrid varieties: Parker F1, Murom 36 and others. Pollination and flowering types are taken into account. Cucumber seeds Parker F1 are processed with microelements, are not susceptible to diseases.​

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Warm bed - how to do it?

From cabbage fleas, plants must be sprayed with a solution of vinegar (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water). Against aphids, solutions of horseradish and burdock are used. When the heads are tied, the cabbage is treated with a solution of boric acid (1 spoon per bucket of water). Kohlrabi is planted shallow, up to the root collar. In cabbage, as it grows, the leaves close in the garden, they cannot be removed, otherwise a head will not form.

How to make a warm bed with your own hands?

Having created a ridge with the help of a cord and pegs, from 100 to 200 g are applied to it lime mixture per linear m; a slightly smaller amount of a mixture with nitrogen, phosphate and potassium (50 g per 1 m 2 of the ridge) is applied before sowing. It is poured evenly over the entire surface, covered with a mixture of phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium on top. All soil is dug up and carefully leveled. The bed is formed by a rake, sides are created; they can be increased to a height of 8-10 cm due to the soil from the passages. In autumn, fertilizers are not applied to the soil; she only digs, clods do not break.

  1. Growing vegetables provides for their nutrition, containing all the necessary trace elements. In narrow beds, vegetables are provided with all the necessary nutrition and contain the whole complex of vitamins, and the level of nitrate is minimized by eliminating the use of pesticides. There are also few toxic substances in the root system.
  2. Dr. Mitlider's technology is convenient and reliable. The garden area for planting is 1.5 acres. The cultivation technology provides for the availability of water for irrigation and good lighting. Grown vegetables are always of excellent quality, suitable for long-term storage, and environmentally friendly. The technology of farming according to this method is simple. gardener, with minimum cost forces and means, will receive an ideal, well-groomed garden.
  3. In early June, planted seedlings in open ground. By that time, almost all seedlings were with buds and flowers. But most of the seedling bushes grown at home were without even a hint of buds.
  4. And last year, due to the fact that there was no space on my windowsills to accommodate all the seedlings, I decided to repeat my mother's experience.
  5. fruit trees.
  6. We water the last layer (organic matter) with compost biological products, such as Siyaniye or Baikal.
  7. I sowed some of the tomatoes immediately in the OG, in order to continue the experiment. They were sown in the same way as in the beds. Sowed on May 8 and covered only with bottles. Germination certainly stretched. The last rose by the beginning of June. But the bulk showed shoots by May 20.
  8. I make holes with the diameter of the same bottle that will be installed above the hole. Lightly compact, put 4-5 seeds in each, pour warm water with manganese. Slightly pink solution. And I sprinkle with soil on top, about 2 cm. I also compact it. In order for the bushes “with a hat” not to sprout.

What can be planted in warm beds?

Seedlings are planted on a narrow bed at the age of 28 days. In the early stages, it is covered with films. Landing pattern along the side, in one row. The distance between the seedling bushes depends on how the plant will grow: on a trellis or spread. If the plate is placed vertically, then the distance is 17.5 cm. Seeds should be planted often (5-6 cm). Cucumbers on trellises are grown much more often than in spreading. The plant is well lit, but there is a significant drawback: when it gets cold, the cucumber bush on the trellis is not protected by anything. When placed in a spread, the plant can be covered with a film.

  • Cabbage is watered daily, at the rate of 5-10 liters of water per 1 linear meter. m. It is necessary to water the plants on the leaves. Since July, watering has not been done in the evening: it may appear powdery mildew. Poured with cold water, you can not pour water on the paths. Watering should be plentiful and timely. Cabbage quickly evaporates the liquid, it needs a lot of water.
  • Vegetable growing in narrow beds allows you to grow early vegetables: seedling bushes are prepared in advance
  • Vegetables in narrow beds are able to carry out a self-cleaning process, removing toxic substances from the roots due to the activation of the photosynthesis process. When growing plants, the processing of nitrates occurs in the best conditions, due to sufficient watering, proper nutrition. Vegetables in narrow beds contain an acceptable amount of nitrates and are superior in organoleptic properties to those grown in open ground.​

Advantages of warm beds

  • The Mitlider method involves digging the beds and does not affect other areas. There is no loosening of the soil, weeds appear occasionally on the beds. Grown vegetables are stored in pre-prepared storage facilities.​
  • ​Taken from: http://hozvo.ru/news/vegetable_garden/delaem_tepluyu_gryadku_dlya_pomidorov/​
  • How surprised I was that the same variety, sown both in the house (for seedlings) and in the beds (with seeds), bore fruit much more abundantly from the "bed" seedlings. And not only was it not inferior to home seedlings in terms of growth and fruiting time, but even vice versa.

The soil warms up earlier;

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We make a warm bed for tomatoes

We lightly tamp all layers.

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