You should familiarize yourself with the basic rules and methods of professional pinching so as not to damage the plant. Here are some recipes:

First rule. The right time for the procedure. The first pinching occurs after planting sprouts in open ground. Wait a while for the plant to gain a foothold and adapt to new conditions so as not to injure it. Petunia takes root well if you observe a few subtleties. Plant seedlings not too densely, so that there is room for root growth. Do not forget about abundant watering (2-3 times a day plus spraying). Feed the roots and stems with leaves four times a month with a spray bottle and soil fertilizers;

Second rule. We observe the state of the stem. The time of circumcision has come if the flower began to actively grow up and strengthen. If so, the petunia can be safely handled. We count four leaves from the beginning of the aerial part and pinch off the upper shoot, which pulls the specimen up. Do not be afraid that flowering will slow down, this is a necessary measure for the formation of side shoots. Within a month, you will be able to observe the lush growth and flowering of new buds. The second time we pinch an already blooming petunia, this can and even needs to be done. Such manipulations will help prolong the period of flowering and growth;

Third rule. Remote shoots will still be useful to you, with their help you can grow new seedlings. Everything is very simple - put our stalk in water with fertilizers, and it will take root. Now we can transplant a new nightshade into the ground, before that, having previously removed all the leaves except for the top ones, this is such a 100% productivity.

Fourth rule. It is not necessary to pinch hybrid petunias, they will be bushy anyway.

Little pinching tricks for beginners

Pinching is a delicate and labor-intensive process. Do not confuse it with pinching, coloring and circumcision. Try to pinch off the shoots, this does not require any additional tools, only observation and caution. Remove damaged or diseased parts of the nightshade in time, get rid of dry, withered sectors. Be more tolerant of weak, scraggly shoots, and don't cut their leaves too much. Knowing how to pinch a petunia correctly, do not overdo it with pinching, do the procedure no more than once a month. Work easier with large-flowered varieties, but small-flowered specimens are less whimsical to weather conditions, so the choice is yours.

If you don't have ampelous petunias, and they are stretched out, then apparently they do not have enough light and their stems stretch up too much. In this case, prune them (cut stems that are too long by half) and provide them with brighter light (if this is not possible, put them under a fluorescent lamp a day).

Why should you pinch a petunia? This is done so that the stem does not become too elongated and does not distort the appearance of the plant. Again, due to the too long stem, the flower in most cases falls or bends under its own weight. After removing excess shoots, new shoots begin to appear at the cut site, on which buds grow, thus the bush becomes richer and brighter.

Remember: Petunia seedlings should not be allowed to grow, otherwise the moment of pinching will be missed.

first clothespin do,when it starts to rise rapidly. You should count 5 leaves from the bottom of the stem and pinch off the top shoot - the growth point(To when the shoots are 7 to 10 cm long.). After this procedure, flowering will slow down somewhat, but the side shoots will begin to grow actively.The earlier it is done, the more side shoots are formed.As a result, there will be many large buds on the bush.

second clothespin produced with a shoot length of more than 10-15 cm, removing the very end of the shoot so that the flower buds are already laid.

Further you can carry out a clothespin only strongly grown shoots, for uniform growth of the bush.

As a result of the clothespin, the petunia begins to actively release side shoots. The bush from this looks more lush, strong and healthy. More new branches guarantee more buds and flowers. At the same time, the quality of flowering also increases: it becomes long and plentiful.

Advice:- Do not use the operation for seedlings in boxes and young immature sprouts, do not mix different varieties and rid the soil of weeds and pests in time. Remember petunias need just like the rest decorative types, in constant attention and care;

After pinching, the removed shoots (3-4 leaves) can be put in a jar of water and, after the appearance of small roots, use them to grow new petunia bushes;

Throughout the season, it is necessary to remove wilted flowers in time, this will contribute to the formation of new buds on the plants.

Petunia care doesn't end with pinching

So that the bushes do not lose their decorative effect, you must always monitor the flowers, removing inflorescences and dried petals along with seed pods. They should be removed so that the plant does not waste caloric substances on setting seeds. This will all help the rapid growth of new, very large buds. Plus, the dry parts of the plant greatly distort the beautiful appearance the whole bush.

When transplanting plants into pots, the volume of pots should be chosen depending on the variety of petunia. For example, for a cascading petunia, it is better to choose large pots, with a calculation of 10 liters per 1 bush. Smaller pots are suitable for regular petunias. For example, 3-4 petunia bushes can be planted in a 5 liter container. If the pot is too small for the plant, it will bloom much poorer.

Petunia ampelnaya: pinching

In order to achieve maximum flowering, pinching the ampelous petunia should be done twice. The first time it is recommended to do this after the seedlings are planted in open ground, but not immediately. Give the plant time to mature. Now watch: as soon as the planted shoots begin to actively grow and stretch, the moment has come (approximately the month of May). Count 3-5 full-fledged leaves from the bottom of the stem (this is the growth point of the plant), and everything on top needs to be pinched off or cut off. Do not be alarmed if the growth of the flower slows down a little, but it will start to sprout side shoots. The result of this will be abundant flowering and large buds.

Do not throw away the cut stems, they can be put in water and they will take root. Before planting, leave only a couple of leaves, and cut off everything else, as in the first case.

Do not forget to do the second pinching of the ampelous petunia after a month.
How nice it would be to admire flowering plant like ampelous petunia. Pinching will form lush bushes strewn with bright, beautiful flowers.

Sources: kakprosto.ru; mjusli.ru

BEAUTY TO YOUR GARDEN!!!

Your LUBASHA BODYA

Annual, profusely flowering marigolds - any plant gardeners. They are not demanding on soil, watering and care. A variety of colors and sizes of flowers delights in quantity and decorative qualities. Equally important is useful property plants - the release of a special aroma. Marigold phytoncides drive away pests of the garden and vegetable garden, disinfect the soil. Beginning flower growers ask many questions about growing flowers. One of them, is it necessary to pinch the marigolds?

Marigolds are bushy annuals

Features of growing marigolds

The scientific name of marigolds is tagetes. These are herbaceous annuals native to South America. They have strong erect stems, strongly dissected green leaves with serrated edges. The size of the inflorescences is from 2 to 15 cm, the color is white, yellow, orange, red-brown or two-tone. Flowers are simple and double. The height and size of the bushes depends on the type of tagetes. Tall varieties reach 120 cm, and dwarf varieties - 20 cm. Near these plants there are no whiteflies and bears. Pests avoid areas with tagetes. And the bees bright flowers like, so there will be no problems with the pollination of flowering crops.

Marigolds are grown in two ways:

• planting in open ground;
• seedling cultivation.

Marigolds in the open field

Seeds are sown in the soil after the establishment of warm weather. Optimal time end of May or beginning of June. Poor soil is pre-fertilized. Seeds are planted in grooves up to 5 cm deep. Shoots appear after 7-14 days. Plants bloom in July.

Seedling propagation

Seedlings begin to grow in March-April. A universal soil is poured into a container with drainage. Sowing can be done by simply spreading the seeds over the surface and sprinkling with soil. The soil is moistened, the container is covered with a film and placed in a warm place. The first sprouts will appear in 4-5 days. With a dense planting, seedlings swoop down after the appearance of two permanent leaves.

They are planted outside in June, many plants are already blooming by this time. When you take up growing flowers for the first time, many questions arise, for example, is it necessary to pinch marigolds? There is no unequivocal opinion on this issue, each gardener relies on his own experience.

What is plant pinching?

Some flower growers, when growing seedlings, pinch marigolds. This procedure occurs after the appearance of 6-7 permanent leaves. Pinching is the removal of the upper part of the shoot. Above 4-6 leaves, a part of a thin stalk is torn off with fingers or cut off with scissors. For ampelous plants and annual vines, the procedure is mandatory. With tagetes it is carried out at will. Thin-leaved marigolds form a sprawling spherical bush without pinching.

Important. Pinching seedlings pushes back the beginning of flowering tagetes.

Why is tagetes pinched?

The procedure of pinching the top of the seedling stimulates the formation of side shoots. A lush bush is formed, which pleases from June to frost bright bloom. All manipulations are done at the seedling stage.

Information. With the wrong choice of planting dates, lack of lighting or in large numbers nitrogen fertilizer plant stem is excessively stretched. To form an annual, a significant part of the stem has to be removed.

Today, thanks to the development of new breeding varieties, you can buy marigolds of any height, color, shape of the bush. Low-growing varieties with large flowers (Anigua, Mandarin, Vanilla, Lunassi) do not require pinching. Their stems do not stretch above the prescribed 25-30 cm. Straight and strong, they do not bend to the ground under the weight of terry inflorescences. Rejected or French marigolds are more common than other species in gardens and orchards. Plant height is from 25 to 50 cm. Usually it is a compact bush with yellow, orange or red flowers.

Pinching the rejected marigolds makes them branchier and adds decorative appeal. The procedure is performed several times, first after the growth of 4-6 permanent leaves, then the second time - a month later. At this time, they are already in open field in its permanent place. Seedlings should be well rooted in the flower bed before the second pinching. In the first half of summer, they especially need regular moisture. From drought, the stems become weak, and the flowers are small.

Spreading and compact bushes of marigolds look great in flowerbeds, mixborders, borders, along the curb. Low-growing varieties are grown as a pot crop on balconies or in houses. Weeding, watering, top dressing and timely formation of bushes will be the key to a long and abundant flowering.

It is sometimes difficult for novice amateur gardeners to figure out how to pinch tomatoes. Indeterminate tomato plants not only grow with multiple stepchildren, but also grow indefinitely upwards. Let's see why you need to pinch tomatoes, and when is the best time to do it.

What gives pinching tomatoes

Earlier, we considered the formation of determinant tomato species, focusing on Special attention stepchildren. It is also described pinching tomatoes to reduce harvest time. Therefore, if you need to understand the features of growing plants of determinant varieties, go here. In the same article, we will deal with the question of whether it is necessary to pinch tall tomatoes, and what this agricultural technique gives.

By pinching we will understand not the removal of stepchildren, but mechanical removal top of the main stem. In horticulture and viticulture, this technique is called tweezing, and its meaning is exactly the same - removing the growth point on the shoot. Pinching the growing point can have many purposes, but for tall tomatoes we are interested in the following:

• improving the quality of the crop;
• reduction in the ripening of fruits on the bushes.

Unlike medium-sized (determinant varieties) tomatoes, tall tomato species do not stop growing during the season. Their top is overgrown with leaves and inflorescences again and again. Consequently, nutrition from the roots and photosynthesis is distributed to all ovaries. And if new ovaries appear by the end of the growing season, the plant will try to direct nutrients on their ripening to the detriment of other previously set fruits. If the plant is not stopped in time, with the onset of frost we will get a lot of unripe and, most importantly, small tomatoes.

Therefore, if we briefly formulate the main goal of pinching tomatoes, it will look amazingly simple:

Pinching a tomato stops the growth of the plant for fruiting.

How to pinch tomatoes and when to pinch

We pinch tomatoes in the open field in early September, about 30-40 days before the full harvest. In greenhouses, the completion of the growing season is slightly extended compared to the soil, and the pinching period, depending on the region, must be set independently: if you complete cultivation in November, then pinch the plants in late September-early October, if earlier, calculate the time.

Sorry for the tautology, but still re-emphasize: this applies to liana-shaped (indeterminate) tomato varieties. Determinate varieties tend to grow without our help, although in some cases their growth must be skillfully managed.

After pinching, tall tomatoes will definitely wake up stepchildren. And not only in the upper tier of the plant, but also from below. Therefore, be on the lookout and regularly clean the plants - any growth will delay the maturation of the brushes. And the fruits that have not poured either for salting or for ripening are of little use - they are too bitter due to excess solanine.

Now let's look at how to properly pinch the growth point:

How to properly pinch tomatoes

In tomatoes, the transfer of plastic substances to the crop occurs in the same way as in fruit trees and grapes: if you cut the stem immediately after the fruit brush, then the batteries will not enter the brush, and the plant will discard the fruits. Grapes behave in exactly the same way: if you don’t leave the leaves above the bunch, and if you spend the minting low, the berries will crumble.

We need the supply of the last inflorescence not to stop, and this is provided by photosynthesis. This means that the correct pinching of a tomato is a cut of the main stem 2 leaves above the extreme brush. Schematically, the correct pinch looks like this:

You can also watch a video on how to pinch tomatoes in a greenhouse:

Optional part - formation of indets

In general, tomatoes are very plastic, and they can be easily shaped. This is especially true for open ground in regions with a short summer - 4-5 brushes are left there to fill the fruit, the rest of the growth is sharply limited:

As you can see, there is nothing complicated about how to pinch tomatoes. In the open field and in the greenhouse, this operation is carried out in the same way, the difference is only in the period of pinching tomatoes. Well, do not forget to inspect the bushes after pinching, and free them from stepchildren, otherwise you will not achieve your goal.

Stay with us and you will find out why summer operations are carried out on pome trees and grapes - we will continue the topic of pinching plants, and talk about tweezing and chasing shoots.

Do you want to grow a good tomato crop in your area? If your plans do not include getting from plants a continuous forest of leaves and pea fruits, then all summer you should be engaged in the formation of plants. To do this, you need to learn how to properly pinch (stepson) the bushes.

Instruction

• Decide how many stems your tomato plant will have. It depends on the variety of seedlings (tall or limited in height) and the place of its cultivation. In greenhouses, plants are most often formed into 1 stem. This formation reduces the risk of developing a terrible disease of tomatoes - late blight. In open ground conditions, you can let the bushes grow in 2-3 stems.
• A few days after planting the seedlings, carefully inspect each tomato bush. Remove all stepchildren (lateral shoots that form in the axils of the leaves) from tall (interdeterminate) forms. For determinant (limited in height) varieties of tomatoes, leave one stepson under the first flower brush and two above it.
• Stepson every 5-7 days. Check plants very carefully. An unnoticed stepson grows rapidly and draws all the forces of the bush onto itself, slowing down the ripening of fruits that have already set on other stems.
• In the middle of summer, to get an early harvest, pinch the top point of growth on selective tall bushes - cut off the top of the main stem, leaving 2-3 leaves after 6 flower brushes. On determinant varieties, each of the stems should have 2-3 flower clusters. With more flower clusters left, many unripe and small fruits can result.

KakProsto.ru

pinching tomatoes

Pinching is the process of removing the top of the plant above the top leaf with small scissors or fingers. The purpose of pinching is to redirect energy into flowering and fruiting.

Tomato pinching is carried out for faster fruit ripening, since without this method, tomatoes can remain green for a long time.

Pinching can be done on cucumbers, tomatoes, peas, melons, etc. Pinching tomatoes is performed at high grades in order for the fruits to ripen before the cold. Tomatoes need to be formed into one stem, leaving seven or eight flower brushes. Also leave 1 or 2 stepsons to get an extra crop. All other stepchildren at the roots and from the axils of the leaves are removed.

It is better to choose the morning time, then the stepsons break off more easily. To prevent viral infection of other plants, stepchildren are not cut off, but broken off to the side. Leaves at the very root and soil, unnecessary stepchildren must be removed for the prevention of various diseases of tomatoes. It is necessary to ensure that the stem at the root is dry, so that light gets there, air circulation is present.

Tomato fruits develop on stems of flowers that grow between nodes from the main stem. You can’t cut them off, as they give tomatoes. It is necessary to save the emerging flowers of tomatoes. Remove new shoots growing in the internodes, as well as old leaves.

Proper care of tomatoes will bring you juicy and tasty fruits. A good harvest is an indicator of the present and experienced gardener. Pinching is one of the most common ways to care for tomatoes.

OgorodSadovod.com

Pinching Cucumbers Increases Yield

Garter and pinching cucumbers

Cucumbers growing on the beds with "female" flowers must be tied up. It should be noted that the yield does not directly depend on the configuration of the bush on which the fruits are tied. by the most important point is high-quality, full-fledged lighting. It is best to give preference to climbing plants that are not able to grow to the sides. After the tying is done, the ovary can be seen on the stem for the first time. At this time, you should start pinching cucumbers, thanks to which you can avoid improper plant development. First, a few of the very first shoots are pinched off, after which, over the fourth or third fruit, it is required to pinch off the outgrowths on the sides. This forms an attractive vine that can give the best fruits. After the growth of the third shoots, they must be pinched off over the third or second sheets. In this case, you need to focus on the strength of the bush - the more powerful it is, the large quantity fruits should be left.

thinning cucumbers

Plants to be pollinated bear fruit precisely on branching branches, so it is important to try to ensure the most early appearance such branches for fruit. Seedlings must be pinched exactly above the fourth (or third) leaf immediately after its first appearance. Seedlings should be insulated with manure, warmed up properly so that several branches appear. After that, branches with a "female" flowering first appear. Excessively dense branches should be thinned out using a method such as pinching cucumbers above the surface of the fifth or sixth fruit. It is recommended in advance to remove shoots that will not bear any fruit. Thus, the full growth, development and nutrition of fruit-bearing plants is ensured.

Sowing cucumbers

If you need to grow cucumbers on an open surface of the soil, it is best to sow seeds that you need to germinate in advance. With mild favorable climatic conditions sowing should be carried out in early May. In the event that weather conditions do not allow resorting to early sowing, it should be postponed in order to avoid the death of plants. It is best to sow seeds in an unfavorable climate no earlier than the beginning of June. At the same time, they are laid to a certain depth, which is approximately two centimeters. It is necessary to strictly monitor the condition of the bushes and, if necessary, thin them out. For dense bushes, pinching cucumbers is used in a known way.

fertilizers

Warming seedlings in open ground will accelerate the period of its growth. Suitable for this purpose glass jar, which is convenient to cover each plant. Stems germinating in open soil tend to spread on the surface of the earth. First of all, extra shoots are plucked over the sixth (or fifth) leaf, which greatly strengthens the branches. In order to grow the highest quality fruits, you should regularly water and fertilize the soil on which cucumbers grow. For this purpose, various kinds of fertilizers are used, including liquid ones. It is necessary to leave both "male" and "female" flowers on the plants.

Mulch

Constant and correct pinching of cucumbers (photo - in the article) will make it possible to get large, properly developed fruits. Mulching is used to eliminate weeds, as well as to increase soil temperature. In this case, moisture is also better retained. Mulch allows cucumbers to avoid putrefaction, as their contact with other vegetation is excluded. Cucumbers for pickling are small in size, have a length of up to ten centimeters. They are best grown in the conventional way in open ground. Shoots above the sixth or fifth leaf are usually removed. It is also carried out pinching cucumbers in the greenhouse, which makes it possible to quickly grow the largest and highest quality fruits.

syl.ru

tomato seedling

Gerard Boonekamp Groenten en Fruit 38/2010

Translation by Marita Gailite

Today, in greenhouses in the post-Soviet space, grafted tomato seedlings are used very little, often the first attempts end in disappointment. At the same time, not only in the West, but also in Poland, grafted tomatoes are grown more and more. There are three main types of grafted seedlings: 1:1 graft, grafted and pinched over the second true leaf, grafted and pinched over the cotyledons. In the first case, a plant with one top is obtained, in both the latter - with two tops. Recall that grafted seedlings are usually produced by specialized seedling enterprises, vegetable growers themselves do not do this.

What are the pros and cons of each type of grafted seedlings tells Eric de Winter - a specialist in the consulting firm Lycopersicon.

There is a set of standard advice about choosing the type of grafted seedling. So, a 1: 1 graft is used to grow tomatoes medium size, the fruits of which are harvested separately, and grafted-pinched - for carpal varieties, since this makes it possible to increase fees. In addition, grafting 1: 1 is also chosen for light culture, since the life and fruiting life of the plant is significantly increased. Most growers choose to pinch over the second leaf. However, in the run-up to each spring, discussions begin about which type of seedling is best and why. The location of the brushes and the quality of the tomatoes when pinching over the second sheet often leaves much to be desired. Therefore, some prefer pinching over cotyledons, but even in this case there are pitfalls.

Benefits of the 1:1 Vaccination

• At high doses of CO 2 and additional illumination, which is created by new brands of glass, grafting 1:1 provides best strength growth.
• With more thickening.
• For example, if seedlings are planted 75 cm apart in a row and a second top is released later, moving to a distance of 37.5 cm, 1:1 seedling selection is the accepted standard. At the same time, plants provide the greatest growth force in May-June (in Holland), when the yield load is also maximum. Wherein the best choice Rootstock is most often considered Maxifort as the most vigorous.
• With a pepino mosaic.
• With a weak growth force, infection of plants with pepino mosaic can cause very serious consequences. In cool summers and with low infection with pepino mosaic, planting pinched seedlings after 75 cm gives good results. However, the risk is quite high.
• With a generative rootstock.
• The choice of the main variety (scion) and rootstock is very important, therefore, with generative rootstocks, seedlings are planted from 66-70 cm in a row and additional tops are never released above the first or second brush on all plants at the same time.
• For an extra harvest. This is not about starting growing too vegetatively, but about being able to grow as fast as possible. This makes it possible to grow tomatoes in more extreme conditions with a higher DIF (difference between day and night temperature) when the daytime temperature rises a lot.
• With early disembarkation without additional illumination. At very early dates sowing at flowering before Christmas (December 25) some growers choose seedlings 1:1. These plants always stay longer in the greenhouse (turnaround time is longer) and this choice is obviously justified as it is made year after year. Such plants require more care work.
• Based on the shape of the hand and fetus. When grafted 1:1, the shape of the hand is always good, regular in shape. In grafted - pinched plants, the fruits in the brush are often less aligned. This, of course, does not happen by itself and depends on the regime of additional illumination during the period of growing seedlings. Seedling growers are working on getting a quality first brush and recently brushes have improved a lot.

Seedling disadvantages 1:1

• Early harvest is delayed, usually at 75 cm planting but not uncommon at 50 cm planting. Despite the early set of clusters that hang in a cloud from the secondary stems, the extra clusters delay the onset of ripening. The lag in total yield from grafted-pinched plants is leveled off by the end of May-June.
• The cost of purchasing seedlings when planting after 75 cm is 5-10% higher than for pinched seedlings, and when planting after 50 cm, the difference in costs is even more significant.

Benefits of pinching over a second leaf

Pinching over the second sheet is most popular in Holland and Belgium due to the following advantages.

• Higher early production. Pinched plants generally give a higher early yield. In 2010, the difference was especially noticeable due to higher prices for early products.
• Lower costs for seedlings. Costs for seedlings are significantly lower, since the number of stems is initially 2 times higher.
• Large leaf mass compared to pinching over the cotyledons.
• A beautiful, strong plant.
• Less tendency to bifurcate the brush.
• Seedling growers are getting better and better at producing plants of the desired quality.

Disadvantages of pinching over the second sheet

• The first brush is often irregular in shape.
• Some varieties often have up to 5 leaves between the first and second brush.
• Growth force management is required, but is usually good enough. It is noteworthy that in 2010, with light culture, good results were obtained on grafted-pinched seedlings even of such a large-fruited hybrid as Komet. So far the standard for this variety has been a 1:1 graft.

Benefits of pinching over cotyledons

In Holland and Belgium pinching over cotyledons is unpopular, and for good reason. However, there are also advantages:

• Higher early production.
• Low planting costs.
• Higher location of the first brush, usually above the 7th-9th leaf. As a result, the second brush is usually well developed and is laid 3 leaves above the first. Thanks to this, a good vegetative-generative balance is achieved earlier.
• Shorter plant care period.
• Stable plant growth.

• Stem development is more uneven, especially during periods of low light.
• The stems thicken worse.
• The seedling grower has to plant the plants differently in pots to ensure that the plants are properly tied to the trellis.
• The first garter of plants requires more care in order to properly place the stems in the row.
• Growing seedlings lasts 4-5 days longer.
• The first early harvest is obtained later due to the higher position of the first brush.
• In extended rotation, plants are weaker and less productive in Holland and Belgium. However, in France both vigor and yield are quite good due to better light conditions after transplanting.

Wide selection of rootstocks

For a long time, the word "rootstock" was synonymous with the Beaufort hybrid or the more vigorous Maxifort. V last years both the supply and the use of other rootstocks have increased significantly. It is not only about vigor, but also about the best combination of rootstock-graft varieties, type of seedlings grafted and duration of turnover. Especially great importance it has in initial period growing in late autumn, when a properly selected stock helps to quickly bring the plant into balance, reducing its generative. A more balanced plant in the early growing period reduces the risk of gray rot spreading. For the autumn turnover, enhanced generative development in the second half of summer (after the longest day) makes it possible to prevent excessive vegetative growth in autumn.

In the Test Center in Hoogstraten (Belgium) in 2010, hybrids of Tricia, Souples and Dirk were compared on Maxifort, Optifort (Monsanto), Emperador and Stallone (Rijk Zwaan) and Arnold (Syngenta) rootstocks. The difference in yield (4% within the same variety) for the period from May to August was insignificant and did not allow to identify best combinations varieties. In terms of growth strength, Arnold was the weakest, but for the hybrid Dirk turned out to be the most suitable for obtaining an early harvest and a larger fruit mass in the autumn turnover. Tricia hybrid gives better results on more vigorous rootstocks.

GreenHouses.ru

Pinching a tomato, how to pinch a tomato

Tomato pinching is the removal of lateral shoots growing from the axils of the leaves, that is, stepchildren. Stepping is very important for getting good harvest great tomatoes, in a simple way, this procedure is also called pinching a tomato.

Before you delete the stepson, you need to make sure that it is he, and not a leaflet. To do this, you need to carefully look at the plant, since the side shoot does not grow on a bare stem. First, a leaf grows, and after it, a stepson appears from the leaf axil (between the leaf and the main stem). The stepson is constantly growing, and then new leaves and new shoots grow on it, that is, stepchildren of the second order. As a result, the bush begins to branch. Learn how to plant tomatoes here.

It is especially important to remove side shoots from tall (indeterminate) tomato varieties.

Tall tomato varieties have a number of advantages over short or determinant varieties.

Firstly, such varieties give a greater yield.

Secondly, provided proper agricultural technology, tall varieties are less susceptible various diseases, including phytophthora.

Thirdly, indeterminate varieties bear fruit from early July until autumn frosts, while determinant varieties ripen almost simultaneously.

Fourth, they are easier to pinch.

And fifthly, it is more convenient to work with tall plants, since you do not need to constantly bend over or stand in an uncomfortable position.

How to properly pinch tomatoes

Pinching a tomato is important to do on time and do it right. So, in tall tomatoes, the first fruit brush is laid after the sixth or eighth (sometimes the tenth leaf). And from the bosom of each leaf, an additional shoot-stepson appears. Thus, up to the first fruit brush on a tomato, there are six to eight, or even ten additional branches that require nutrition. And since the stepchildren grow below the fruit brush, they get more food. Further, the fruit brush is laid through the leaf, and the side shoot is near each leaf.

If you do not take any measures, then you will grow a lush bush with small fruits. But tall varieties are famous precisely for their large-fruited and high yield. To achieve such success, you need to start pinching tomatoes already during the flowering of the first brush. This is a rather laborious process, so it is advisable to combine it with the first garter of a tomato to the supports. Removal of stepchildren cannot be done mechanically, so before you get to work, decide how many stems you will leave on the plant.

Pasynkovanie indeterminate tomato varieties

It is desirable to form one stem from tall tomatoes, that is, all stepchildren must be plucked from the main stem. Moreover, from the stepson you need to leave a “stump” about a centimeter long, in order to new escape did not grow up very soon. A low-growing plant can be formed into two stems. To do this, you need to remove all stepchildren up to the first flower brush, leaving one shoot above the first flower brush. From above, all stepchildren need to be pinched.

On some varieties of tomatoes, stepchildren grow even before the plant throws out the first flower brush. As a result of this, the forces of the plant are not spent on the formation of fruits, but on the growth of green mass. If your goal is to get a good harvest, and not to plant a vegetable garden, then tomatoes must be stepsoned.

The pinching of the main stem is done in tall plants, so that the set fruits have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather.

Tall plants form into one stem, leaving several flower clusters (usually seven to eight). If you leave one or two stepsons, you can get four more flower brushes, that is, an additional crop. All other side shoots from the axils of the leaves and at the roots must be removed.

It is advisable to break off the stepchildren in the morning, since at this time they are easily separated. To avoid infection of the plant viral diseases, the stepson should not be cut off, but broken off, and so that the juice of the plant does not fall on the hands (the infection is transferred from one plant to another through the hands).

It must be remembered that the stepson growing above the first flower brush develops most intensively. On this shoot, a flower brush is laid very quickly.

To prevent disease, remove all lower leaves plants that come into contact with the ground, as well as all unnecessary stepchildren as they grow. Well, when the stem of the plant is dry below, light falls on it, and air circulates freely around it.

Pasynkovanie determinant varieties of tomatoes and hybrids

In order to get an early harvest on a stunted plant that has more inflorescences on the main stem, you need to form one stem and leave two or three inflorescences. After the last inflorescence, save a few leaves and pinch the growing point. The growth point may not be pinched, but in this case, the fruits on all inflorescences may not have time to ripen.

If you form a plant into two stems, leaving four to eight inflorescences, then the fruits will reach the bush. Low-growing plants and hybrids in three stems, as a rule, do not form.

If you have formed your plant into one or two stems with two or four inflorescences, then tomatoes will begin to appear on it in the first days of July, that is, two weeks earlier than if you had done without pinching.

With this planting scheme, the yield will be less, but the number of fruits from one branch will be greater. So that the productivity of tomatoes per unit area does not suffer, plants can be planted more closely, for example, at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other.

Some varieties of tomatoes, such as Alaska, Watermelon, Red Banana, White filling 241, Betta, Boni MM, Gavrosh, Rocket, Yamal, can be grown in open ground without pinching, as they have time to give most harvest in a short summer. The yield of these varieties depends solely on weather conditions. The more warm and sunny days, the more plentiful and better the harvest will be.

Pinching different varieties and hybrids of tomatoes in a greenhouse

In greenhouses, tomatoes are stepchildren in order to increase the fruiting period and get the maximum yield per unit area. If you need to harvest short term, then choose low-growing varieties of tomatoes, and if you have the opportunity to grow tomatoes for four to five months, then you can take semi-determinant varieties that limit growth after eight to ten inflorescences on the main stem and indeterminate ones.

At undersized variety you need to leave one stem and one shoot to continue under the first inflorescence. This shoot is pinched after a pair of inflorescences and leaves appear on it.

If such a variety is grown in one stem for four to five months, then without stepchildren this plant simply stops growing. That is why a reserve stepchild from the leaf axil is left on them, located under the second or third inflorescence from the top.

When this backup shoot starts to grow, it will need to be removed, leaving a new one that is even closer to the top. In order for the plant to grow normally, it needs to be stepson in the greenhouse every five to seven days.

When forming tall and medium-sized varieties of tomatoes, it is not necessary to leave a reserve shoot, since the appearance of inflorescences in these plants does not limit their growth.

The fewer inflorescences on the main stem of your plant growing in the greenhouse, the thicker they need to be planted. Then the yield will remain at the proper level.

Have a good harvest!

Petunia has long occupied a leading position as one of the most decorative horticultural crops. And the fact that ampelous petunias grow well in pots and with proper care bloom the next year, made the petunia even more welcome to our gardens, balconies and apartments.

However, you can easily notice that in some flowerbeds, petunias produce several flowers each, and look rather poor, and on neighboring flowers they simply pour like a waterfall along long green shoots. What is the secret to the abundant flowering of petunias?

Everything is very simple - it's a matter of correct pinching. If you remove part of the shoots, and know how to do it, your beauty will bloom gorgeously all season.

Pinching a petunia is an optional procedure. The plant will continue to grow and bloom. Another thing is quality. If you want to have a luxuriously flowering and pleasing bush, and not just a long stem with leaves that falls under the weight of buds, then you need to pinch. If you do not remove the side shoots, the plant will inevitably go up, and with such growth, it will not be up to the formation of flowers. Therefore, the path to a chic flowering petunia lies through pinching. Each cut stem will provoke the appearance of more and more buds. And shoots with flowers will become even stronger and thicker.

When to pinch

The first rule is timing. The first time a petunia needs to be pinned is at the seedling stage, before you are going to plant it in the garden. As soon as 4-5 leaves have formed on your flower, feel free to pinch off the top of it. By doing so, you will help your plant build up a powerful root system, and it will transfer landing in open ground without any problems.

The second time the petunia is pinched after you have planted the flower in open ground. Give it about a week (maximum ten days) to get used to and grow back after transplanting, and a second pinching can be done. By this time, several stems are already forming on the petunia, and each of them should be pinched.

The second rule is to choose the right place for pinching. As soon as your little seedling begins to stretch, you need to count five leaves from the bottom, and cut off the top shoot. It is this procedure that will ensure that the plant does not grow up, but to the sides, and more and more flowers form on the side shoots.

Do not over-tighten with pinching the petunia, otherwise the bush will not be able to properly form and become beautiful.

How to pinch a petunia

The bush that you are going to pinch must be plump and healthy, with a strong trunk. Cut off the top of the petunia with very sharp little nail scissors or a small, thin knife. Otherwise, the flower may die.

At the same time, at least three leaves must remain on the stem.

When you've plucked off the tops of the plants, don't throw them away. They are good for breeding. You just need to remove the leaves from them and put them in water. After a few days, the cuttings will sprout, and they can be rooted next to the mother plant, giving your flower bed even more pomp.

You can root the tops of petunias immediately in the ground, but they will take longer to take root. And cuttings with roots will grow almost immediately.

Does pinching affect flowering time?

Pinching is always a kind of shock for the plant. And the flower must survive this shock. Therefore, those bushes that you pinch will bloom later by about two weeks. But they will have much more large flowers, much more buds will develop, and the petunia will bloom not only more abundantly, but also longer. If you want to have lush, chic flowering petunias, be sure to pinch your bushes.

First of all, you need to cut off the middle, main shoot. And after that, cut off the side shoots, depending on the speed of their growth.

Be sure to keep in mind that faded petunia flowers should be removed. Moreover, it is necessary not only to tear off the flower itself, but also to pinch off the leg on which it is attached to the stem. Then you will have many flowers on the bush.

How often do you need to pinch

You need to pinch the bushes only when they are actively growing. Therefore, if your petunia does not feel very well, has not adapted, and looks weak, do not rush to touch it. Let the plant come to its senses, get stronger and begin to shoot. Then you can pinch it.

Pinching even healthy plants does not need to be done more than once a month. It is important not to overdo it, otherwise the flowers will hurt.

If your bush, after abundant flowering, began to age, it's okay. Trim the petunia as short as possible, it will do her good. After that, loosen the ground, fertilize, and in ten days you will be able to admire the gorgeous flowering of your beauty.

Features of pinching for petunias in pots

As you know, petunias can be grown both in open ground and in pots. And if in the open field pinching is still more of a recommendation to ensure that your petunia is gorgeous in color, then for plants grown in pots, pinching is necessary. Potted petunias need to shorten their stems to without fail otherwise flowers will not appear on the shoots at all.

For petunias in pots, you need to pinch the seedling for the first time even during seedlings. For the pot, you need to immediately achieve beautiful view bush. After the seedling has been placed in a pot, it must also be pinned down. After the petunia has overwintered in a pot (this flower does not hibernate in the open ground), it should also be pinched. And then the cutting of the stems should already be done as necessary, depending on their growth.