Fertilization at planting. Potatoes are grown in a barrel, just like tomatoes

A good harvest pleases the gardener, but in the process of their growth, the plants are pulled out of the soil great amount beneficial trace elements. In order for autumn to continue to please you with a rich collection of vegetables, you need to collect information in advance on how to fertilize potatoes when planting. Gardeners use schemes that have been worked out over the years, why don't you apply their experience to your garden plot?

What affects yield

First of all, you need to choose a good variety, decide on planting material. Despite high-quality agricultural technology, when choosing bad seeds good harvest not worth the wait. An important factor is weather during the growing season. Both lack of watering and too much moisture will affect the yield. An important factor is correct technique soil cultivation. That is, timely hilling and weeding. All this affects the quality of the crop. But still one of the main questions is "how to fertilize potatoes when planting." For the formation of a tuber, it is important to have a sufficient amount of nutrients in the soil. That is, the timely application of the necessary fertilizers guarantees an increase in yield.

Characteristics

One more digression before we move on to the most important thing (how to fertilize potatoes when planting). The root system of this crop practically does not penetrate deep into the soil, it is all distributed over the surface. This is what makes it necessary to fertilize regularly in sufficient quantities. On the one hand, this is a disadvantage, since it greatly limits the plant in terms of nutritional area. On the other hand, you can apply fertilizer directly to the root development center and avoid extra feeding costs.

Necessary fertilizers

Not only a high yield, but also disease resistance, as well as nutritional taste and appearance of tubers - all this is directly related to the nutrition of the plant, so the question "how to fertilize potatoes when planting" is very important. An example can be given: if the plant did not receive top dressing, the protein content in it does not exceed 1%, and with the optimal introduction of microelements it reaches 2%. Each ton of grown tubers takes out 5 kg of nitrogen, 8 kg of potassium and 2 kg of phosphorus from the soil.

Based on this, it is not difficult to understand how to fertilize potatoes when planting in a hole. It is very responsive to organic fertilizers, i.e. manure and compost. Organics can increase the yield several times. There is reliable information that gardeners who regularly apply manure to the soil began to collect 10 buckets from each planted. For comparison: without top dressing, this figure usually corresponds to three buckets collected from one planted. In addition, mineral supplements, green manure, chicken manure and ash are used.

Spring top dressing

Let's see what is most effective. In the spring, however, the proportions must be observed very carefully so as not to harm the plants. So, in the spring, potassium sulfate is added at the rate of 2 kg per hundred square meters, double superphosphate - 1 kg per hundred square meters. Immediately before planting, you can make. In addition, summer residents actively use ash - 5 kg per hundred square meters. Now you can imagine how to fertilize potatoes when planting. Saltpeter and other mineral additives are also included in the composition, which are much more convenient to make. This is Nitrophoska - a consumption of 5 kg per hundred square meters, that is, for one hole you will need a teaspoon with a slide.

Autumn soil preparation

Today we are talking about how you can fertilize potatoes when planting. However, it is very important to prepare the soil in advance so that it meets spring full of nutrients. In autumn, rotted manure or compost is introduced. In the spring, this greatly saves the gardener's time, because you no longer need to think about how to fertilize the potatoes when planting, just plant them in the ground and then feed them with mineral mixtures. There is one more advantage: organic matter introduced before winter has time to overheat well, and in the spring to be fed with melt water in order to give everything to the maximum nutrients future plants. Someone prepares holes in advance and puts manure in each of them (about 2 handfuls), but most often it is simply scattered over the site at the rate of 10 kg per one hundred square meters.

Mineral top dressing and green manure

Spring is a hot time, so mineral fertilizers can be applied in advance. To do this, take potassium sulfate (2 kg per hundred square meters) and (1 kg per hundred square meters). Very well improves soil fertility and increases the yield of sowing winter vetch. This green fertilizer accumulates nitrogen and other necessary trace elements in the sprouts. There are more well-known green manures that can be used in the spring. These are clover and peas, lupins and sainfoin. They promote growth which produce nitrogen. At the same time, the method of using this fertilizer is very simple: before planting potatoes, they are simply plowed into the soil.

If feeding is not done on time

Do not despair if you did not know what is the best way to fertilize potatoes when planting. Still fixable. If top dressing was not made in the fall and spring, then the plants must be supported in the course of their growth and development. For this, it is best to use a mullein. If you take fresh, then you need to dilute it with water 1:10, stale and rotted can be diluted in a smaller proportion - 1:8. For top dressing, slurry diluted in a ratio of 1: 4 with clean water is used.

Top dressing is carried out when the tops reach a height of 12 cm. At the same time, the liquid mixture is very good in that it can be applied directly under root system without undue damage. Do not forget that getting the solution on the tops is highly undesirable. Usually organic nutrition performed during the first hilling. After about 3 weeks, the plants gain a high growth rate, and re-hilling is required. At the same time, it is very good to introduce a solution of mineral fertilizers into the soil. This may be a mixture of potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen supplements, which will be needed for the growth of large and tasty tubers.

chicken manure

it concentrated remedy, which ensures the rapid growth of potatoes, but you cannot use it in its pure form - you will burn the roots of the plants. To prepare the litter for use, it is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15 and infused in a warm place for several days. After that, the liquid is used to water the plants. It is necessary to adhere to the norm: one liter of solution for each bush.

All these fertilizers can be used on your suburban area. They are quite affordable and do not require special knowledge to be successfully used in the garden.

A course that will lead you to a very high yield of potatoes

I just bought this course, which cost me 1500 rubles, but I want to give it to anyone who wants to read it and apply these tips in their area.

Practical advice will help you not only significantly increase your yields, but also reduce the physical effort of growing potatoes to a minimum. The mistake of gardeners-gardeners is that they approach the cultivation of potatoes in a rather utilitarian way. It would seem that it’s easier: I bought a bucket of potatoes in the spring, dug up a bed, planted it, fertilized it a couple of times and sit - wait for the harvest.

Is it any wonder that in the fall, from year to year, you dig up a garden bed in vain - trying to make sure that the neighbors do not see your garden shame.

If you prepare everything correctly, if you approach the process wisely, then in the fall you will get a wonderful harvest of delicious crumbly potatoes. Moreover, there will be so much of it that you can safely sell the surplus and still make good money.

Delicious potatoes in our country are always in price! So what's the secret? - you ask. - Is it really enough to know a few tricks to calmly earn your own potatoes with butter? I propose to systematize your knowledge and hone the process of growing potatoes to the smallest details. Figuratively speaking, a whole assembly line should work on your site. And you yourself will be in charge of this conveyor.

It's all about the systems approach. If you do not have much time and energy, then choose for yourself an alternative way of growing potatoes - on straw or in a barrel. Let the harvest be less, but then you won’t strain too much. But, if you want to set a fruitful record, you have to work. Let's start with a couple of simple truths. So here's the most important question for you:

Why are conventional methods not effective? and why is this happening?

Where to begin? You looked around your garden in search of a suitable bed for potatoes, grabbed a shovel ... Effectively, how is it? I dug up the bed, fertilized it ...

Stop stop! The shovel will wait. I reveal to you the first trick: before undertaking the cultivation of any crop, it is necessary to understand the laws by which nature lives. Main principle smart gardener: observe nature and learn from it. Law one: stop pointlessly digging up your garden! Look at the forest: no one is digging anything, but mushrooms, berries, trees, you know, grow quietly. Why? Because no fertilizer can replace leaves, branches fallen from trees, grass. Your task is not to destroy the fertility of the soil, but to increase it. Soil fertility creates " living matter", consisting of myriads of soil bacteria, microscopic fungi, worms and other living creatures. The rate of reproduction of bacteria in a nutrient medium is very high. Approximately every 20 minutes, a bacterium divides, giving two daughter cells. Therefore, 1,000,000 can be formed from one cell in 10 hours 000 descendants Can you imagine?

Microscopic fungi are lower plants derived from algae. These fungi feed on decaying organic matter of plant or animal origin. Like bacteria, they destroy organic matter, contributing to the formation of humus in the soil. Bacteria and fungi process the root remains of plants, introduced manure, composts, etc., as well as dying organisms, converting their protein mass, digestible green plants, into organic "broths".

If you cannot boast of large crops, then most likely your soil is poor and infertile. In addition, for sure, every spring and every autumn you dig up your garden and thereby deprive it of carbon dioxide, which is vital for plants. No matter how difficult it is to guess, plants take carbon dioxide from the soil. The most important layer in your garden is a 5-15 cm layer.

The upper layer of 8-10 cm provides the life of aerobic bacteria, which need air to live, and the lower layer - anaerobic, for which air is destructive. When you dig up a bed, you, figuratively speaking, pull out anaerobic bacteria, accustomed to living without air, up, aerobic bacteria, which just cannot live without air, throw them down. Both those and other bacteria die, as a result, the soil on your site becomes infertile.

Few gardeners know that during the Russian winter, soil bacteria freeze out so much that their usual mass is restored only by the end of June. And we dig in April-May ... That is, by June we get dead furrows that are not able to give us a good harvest. To remedy the situation, it is necessary to nourish the earth with organic matter: leaves, sawdust, straw and weeds in the form of cuttings, peat, manure ...

In the development of the potato plant, there are 5 periods

The first - from the germination of the tuber to the emergence of seedlings. Usually on the 20-30th day (some varieties have more), after planting the tubers, sprouts appear on the soil surface.

The second is from the appearance of the first leaves to the development of the stems. As the stems and leaves grow, roots develop.

The third - from the appearance of buds to the beginning of flowering plants. During this period, the formation of tubers ends (in early-ripening varieties, tuberization begins 15 days after germination, in late-ripening varieties - after a month).

The fourth - covers flowering and continues until the tops stop growing. About two weeks after flowering, tubers grow rapidly and starch is deposited in them. After the growth of tops ceases, the growth of tubers and the deposition of starch slow down.

Fifth - from the beginning of the death of the tops to its complete drying. At this time, the tubers acquire a characteristic color for the variety, the thickness of the peel increases.

The dormant period is a period during which the intensity of physiological and biochemical processes in plants and their seeds is greatly reduced. After harvesting, the tubers are at rest for some time (2-2.5 months at cold temperatures), and their buds do not form sprouts.

In order to create good conditions for potatoes, it is important to understand that the requirements of potatoes for air and soil temperatures differ depending on the phase of plant development. Intensive germination of tubers begins when the soil temperature at the depth of their incorporation (6-12 cm) is 7-8 degrees.

The higher the soil temperature, the faster the seedlings appear. If the tubers are planted in moderately moist soil at a temperature of 11-12 degrees, seedlings appear on the 23rd day, at 14-15 gr. on the 17-18th and at 18-25 gr. on the 12-13th day. For tuberization, the most favorable daytime temperature is about 18 degrees. them nightly 12-14 gr.

Awakening of the kidneys of the eyes of the tuber begins at a temperature of about 5 gr. But, keep in mind that in this case, the potato is prone to more diseases.

When potatoes are planted in unheated soil, the tubers partially die and rot. And shoots appear only on the 50th day. The need for moisture in potatoes also depends on what phase of development the plant is in. In the germination phase and at the beginning of leaf formation, when the evaporative capacity of the leaves is minimized, the need for moisture is minimal. With the onset of budding and flowering, it increases sharply and increases by the time tubers are formed.

In early varieties, this period falls on June-July, in late varieties, in July-August. It is very important to remember: you can not overmoisten the soil by the time the tops wither. That's the whole theory. For a good harvest, it is important to follow a few rules: we have just learned two of them.

The first rule is not to dry up and not deplete the soil with stupid digging, but rather nourish it with organic matter.

Rule two: remember all the phases of potato development. As soon as this information settles in the head, things will go easier and more interesting. Just in case, we will repeat some things. Repetition is the mother of learning! On the way to the harvest, we have 11 steps. Let's start with the first one?

STEP ONE - PROPER PREPARATION OF THE SOIL

Potatoes can grow on any soil, but it feels best on light, loose soil of medium warmth and humidity, containing a sufficient supply of humus and ash substances; such conditions are usually satisfied by sandy loams, sandy alluvial lands and, to a lesser extent, by clayey sandy loams and marl loams. Clay soil is devoid of air and excessively moistened, sandy, on the contrary, are devoid of required amount moisture. However, the timely introduction of humus and the necessary nutrients helps to solve the situation even on very problematic soils.

How to determine the mechanical composition of the soil?

Take a handful of earth, soak in water to a doughy state and roll into a ball. If the ball does not form, the soil is sandy. If the ball is formed, but the “cord” does not roll, the soil is sandy loam. If a ball and a “cord” form, but the “ring” falls apart, the soil is loamy. If the "cord" rolls up into a ring without cracks, the soil is clayey.

On sandy soils, as a rule, there is not enough moisture, and the main goal is to preserve it, and loams first of all need to be well loosened to provide air access.

Soil preparation for planting potatoes includes two periods - autumn and spring.

Soil preparation in autumn

Soil preparation for the future harvest (and not only potatoes, but also other crops) begins in the fall, immediately after the harvest. Along the front of the area allotted for planting, the first furrow is dug to the depth of the shovel bayonet. Then this groove is filled with straw or grass cuttings (5-6 cm in size) or sawdust, or fallen leaves - in general, with all the organic matter that you have found. So it's not surprising that smart gardeners are composting all summer long. There is never too much compost. He goes all out. Further, this organic mass is sprinkled with crushed (to a powder state) brown coal. What if you don't have coal? Use rotted manure or mixed peat-dung, peat-earth compost. Pour rotted manure onto the straw (grass) cut that is covered in the furrow, turn it over. The more you put in, the better. Practice proves that the average application rate for potatoes of manure and other organic fertilizers is at least 1 ton per 100 sq. meters.

It is better to apply organic fertilizers in the fall.

IMPORTANT!!!

Only rotted manure should be used. Especially rotted peat manure obtained by using peat for livestock bedding or simply mixed with peat. It is important that the manure and peat are moist. This mixture of peat and manure can also be improved if the peat is first deoxidized by powdering it with ground limestone or lime. However, it is important not to overdo it here, since potatoes do not like excess lime in the soil.

Low-lying, well-decomposed peat can be mixed with manure after two to three weeks of airing it in the air. Peat also does not need to be applied dry. After you fill the furrow with straw or weeds and spread the rotted manure, continue digging the area along the furrow. This should be done in such a way that each next layer of earth taken with a shovel is transferred to the furrow filled by you without turning over and traditionally breaking the coma.

Soil preparation in spring

Spring preparation is to loosen the earth. And I recommend loosening with a pitchfork. Loosening, unlike digging, will provide an influx of air and moisture and at the same time preserve the microflora of the earth. The depth of loosening should be slightly more than 15 cm, this contributes to the penetration of moisture into the lower layers. Fertilizers in the spring should not be applied to the soil, but under the potato tubers: figuratively speaking, you should put the tuber on a pile of rotted manure, sprinkled with earth.

How to check the readiness of the soil?

Take a handful of soil, squeeze it tightly in your fist, and if this lump falls apart when it hits the ground from a height of 1.5 meters, then the soil is considered “ripe”.

STEP TWO - PREPARATION OF PLANTING MATERIAL

Your harvest depends on proper preparation seed potatoes. Firstly, the harvested material must be carefully sorted out, discarding rotten, scab-affected, discolored and cracked tubers. The remaining healthy tubers after culling must be sorted by size - the most suitable for planting are tubers weighing from 50 to 90 g.

Do this: in the fall, after the bushes are dug up and turned out, go around with a bucket, inspect the nests, and where the potatoes are even, clean, and there are a lot of tubers, take from such a bush for seeds. Rinse tubers in solution boric acid or in a solution of potassium permanganate and put on the veranda. As soon as the potatoes turn green, put them in the cellar. Green potatoes, that is, hold 10-12 days in the light, it is necessary in without fail! During this time, the substance solanine will appear in the tubers, which makes the potatoes unsuitable for food purposes: they can be poisoned. But the same solanine well protects planted potatoes from pathogenic fungi and bacteria, from rodents.

Gardening increases yield by 10-12%!

IMPORTANT!!!

The selected potatoes must be washed, then dried thoroughly and poured into a stack in a dry but cool place. A cellar or a pit under the garage is best suited. Tubers of different varieties have different shape, they are round, oval and long-oval. Eyes can be deep, medium and small (superficial). In economic terms, the most valuable are small-eyed tubers, the most convenient for peeling and washing.

Keep in mind that round tubers are most suitable for mechanized planting and harvesting.

Types of potato vernalization

In spring, planting potatoes vernalize; germinate in the light for 30-50 days. At the same time, for the first week, vernalized potatoes are kept warm, for example, at a temperature of plus 16-18 degrees, and then the temperature drops so that the last week before planting it reaches plus 4-6 degrees. This is how hardening is done.

Small pieces with eyes can also be tempered in the refrigerator. Vernalization shortens the period of growth and development of potatoes, eliminates the threat of shortfall in tubers from early autumn frosts. The most suitable container is wooden or plastic boxes. Potatoes fit into them no thicker than two rows, because if the layer of potatoes in the box turns out to be too large, this will cut off the access of light to the lower layers. If the tubers receive an insufficient amount of light, then the sprouts are too stretched, as a result of which they become brittle and brittle.

If by the time of planting the tubers have not germinated sufficiently, then a few days before planting they must be heated at a temperature of 35-40 ° C. This will stimulate the kidneys to wake up. Most simplest way vernalization - lay out a batch of seed potatoes on specially equipped lattice racks, pouring tubers in two layers. Such vernalization must begin 35 days before planting. With dry indoor air, the tubers are sprayed with water after 3-5 days. By the end of the germination period, healthy, strong sprouts up to 3 cm long are formed from the potato eyes.

If it is not possible to use racks, you can use wire or nylon fishing line by stringing potatoes on them. These peculiar "beads" are hung on a wire so that the potatoes are exposed to light and air. Another method is used - germination of tubers in wet litter.

This method consists in the following: at the bottom of a basket or box with a slatted bottom, pour wet peat, sawdust, chaff (chaff-waste during threshing and cleaning of grain) or other suitable material with a layer of 2 cm; the moisture content of the material should be low, when compressed in the hand, water should not drip.

On top of the litter, spread the potato tubers with the umbilical cord down and pour the same layer of peat or other material again. Lay 4-5 layers of potatoes row by row. In a humid environment, roots develop on the sprouts in a few days. In the room where potatoes are vernalized, the temperature is maintained at 13-15 degrees. heat. Germination period is 7-10 days. This method is especially good for getting early potatoes. It is better to plant large tubers.

With normal sowing days, after 15-18 days, the tubers can be planted in the ground. By this time, they will not only sprout, but also fibrous roots. During germination, the tubers should be sprayed with a 0.02% solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 10 liters of water), then with an aqueous infusion of ash (infuse 1 cup of ash in 2 liters of water for a day and filter).

potato slices

If you do not have enough planting material, then you can plant potatoes in slices, it is better to cut the tuber on the day of planting. Each part should weigh at least 40 grams and contain 2-3 sprouts. The tuber is usually cut into 2 or 3 parts. When divided into two parts, the tuber is cut lengthwise from the part with a large number of eyes to the lower opposite part.

When dividing the tuber into three parts, first cut off the apical part with the maximum number eyes, and then the rest is cut in half, that is, a T-shaped incision is made. If you decide to divide the tuber into 4 parts, then cut in perpendicular directions - transverse and longitudinal. It is impossible to plant such slices in the ground immediately after the cut! It is necessary to hold the planting material in the open air for about 3 hours. And only then put in the prepared holes.

Potatoes through seedlings

Not everyone will like this method, as it requires twice as much time and attention, but it has one important plus - in the case of growing potatoes through seedlings, the seeds are not affected by viruses, fungal and bacterial diseases, while planting costs are sharply reduced. material. And more importantly, potato seeds remain viable for up to 10 years or more at a temperature of 0 to 20 degrees.

Despite their small size, potato seeds are able to form multi-stemmed, highly productive plants if created favorable conditions cultivation and good care. Potato plants from seeds are grown in two ways - through seedlings (like tomatoes) or by direct sowing in the ground. But in the latter case, it is necessary to have a cultivated, fertile (floodplain) area.

In most of our areas, planting seeds in open ground is meaningless. For seedlings, seeds begin to be sown in early - mid-April. Before sowing, the seeds are soaked in water for 48 hours. Seeds are pre-soaked in water, in solutions of microelements or gebberellic acid (HA) at a concentration of 0.005%, holding time is 24 hours. The solution is prepared as follows: 50 g of HA are dissolved in 5 ml of ethyl alcohol, then water is added to 1 liter. Under the soaked seeds lay filter paper in flat cups or a shallow plate. The paper is constantly moistened, but the seeds are not poured. To avoid evaporation of water, the cup is covered with glass. In April, the seeds that have hatched are sown in sowing boxes or peat cups filled with a mixture of equal parts of peat, sand, sod land and humus.

Before sowing, the soil is well moistened. When sowing in boxes, the seeds are laid out in rows at a distance of 5 cm, and a gap of 10 cm is left between them, then the seeds are covered with fine sand with a layer of 5-10 mm. The top layer of the soil is slightly compacted so that the seeds are not washed off when watering, the sowing is watered through the smallest strainer. Best Temperature for germination 15-20 gr. Seedlings appear on the 4-5th day, and when sown with dry seeds - on the 8-10th day. Before germination, the soil is kept in a moist state, when seedlings appear, watering is given moderately, especially a week before planting seedlings, because excess moisture with poor ventilation pampers plants and contributes to the formation of looser tissues. During this period, seedlings need to be fed with urea - a tablespoon per 10 liters of water. After top dressing, water with clean water. As soon as rooting has occurred, the seedlings must be fed, 1st time with ammonium nitrate (20 g per 10 l of water), 2nd time with complete fertilizer (20 g of ammonium nitrate, 40 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate per 10 l of water ). A month and a half later, when the plants reach a height of 15-20 cm, you can plant them on the site.

Potato seedlings are usually planted in open ground at the end of May. It is important to cover potato seedlings in a timely manner during frosts and protect them from sunburn. Protection from the Colorado potato beetle is also necessary, because tender sprouts are their favorite delicacy. Standard 40-day potato seedlings have 5-6 leaves. Its placement schemes can be 70x10 cm or 70x30 cm.

As a rule, the largest number of tubers is obtained with a thickened planting pattern; with sparse plantings, the size of the tubers increases, but their number decreases.

Potato seedling care is standard - regular loosening of row spacing, double hilling, pest control and watering. Seedlings are harvested in the first decade of September.

ATTENTION!

When sowing seeds in open ground, the plant manages to form only small tubers, from such a seeding for the next year they get an excellent harvest of large and high-yielding potatoes.

Varieties of potatoes for growing from seeds

For sowing potatoes with biological seeds, the following varieties are used - potato populations.

Early ripe - Assol, Farmer, Triumph, Empress, Velina, Milena.

Mid-season - Ilona, ​​Ballad, Revenge, Krasa and hybrid F1 Lada.

Mid-late variety - Virgo.

Early varieties give a harvest in 50-65 days, mid-season - in 80-95 days, medium late in 95-110 days.

Little secrets of my neighbors:

Zoya Ivanovna, 62of the year:

- 2-3 weeks before planting P dust the prepared potatoes with ash . When the sprouts sprout, I transfer the potatoes to carton boxes with sawdust. I moisten the sawdust with water and manganese so that they are slightly damp, mix with oven ash. At the bottom of the box I pour sawdust with a layer of 3-5 cm, lay out the potatoes on them according to the scheme 10 × 10 cm, fill it with sawdust on top and cover it with a film. I put the boxes in a cool place.

When the sprouts come to the surface of the sawdust, I remove the film, put the boxes in the light - in this case, the stems will not stretch, the plants will be squat.

In the second half of March, on a warm day, I plant seedlings in furrows , I fall asleep with earth and form low ridges. Then I cover with spanbond (black nonwoven fabric). This material holds moisture well and passes air. A bed insulated with spunbond can be watered without opening it. I keep the potatoes under the spunbond until they are dug up. And the whole family is already eating young potatoes, when everyone is just about to plant them in open ground in the traditional way.

Nikolai Semenovich, 57 years old

- In order for the potatoes to sprout, I take them out of the cellar and lay them out in plastic bags. Can be laid out on the floor.

Margarita Alexandrovna, 44 years old

“My mother taught me this way a long time ago. A month before planting, I take out potatoes from the cellar and lay them out on the floor. After drying, I put the tubers in three-liter jars (lids are not needed) and put them on the glazed veranda. In a month, all the eyes, thanks to the microclimate, germinate.

Dina Andreevna, 38 years old

To disinfect tubers, I prepare an explosive mixture: 50 g of boric acid, 16 g of copper sulfate, 10 g of zinc sulfate, 10 g of magnesium sulfate, 2 g of potassium permanganate and a pound of wood ash. First, I dissolve all the components separately in warm water, then I pour everything into a separate container and add water to make 10 liters. I dip the sprouted potatoes in this composition. As a result, I get healthy tubers ready for planting.

Irina, 24of the year.

- To get early potatoes, I plant tubers under black non-woven material - spunbond. I loosen the plot, apply fertilizer, level it with a rake and cover it with a black film, fixing the edges. Then I make cruciform incisions in it, dig holes 10-12 cm deep with a scoop and put the tubers in them. This method helps to protect potatoes from returning frosts, keep moisture in the ground, avoid weed control and, finally, get a crop almost a month earlier.

STEP THREE - CROPPING

I probably won’t discover America if I say that growing potatoes for several years in a row in the same place is at least short-sighted. Potatoes and vegetables must be alternated. The best option is as follows: divide the plot into two parts: sow one vegetable crops, the other - potatoes. And then rotate them every year. However, even here you will have to remember one simple rule: plants of the same family (say, cabbage, radish and radish) should not fall into their original place earlier than after 4 years. In order not to get confused, I advise you to keep a diary of a gardener. It is very useful!

So, here is a rough list of how crops should be located on your site.

1st year - Early cabbage, swede, turnip, radish, radish, cucumbers, zucchini, early potatoes, carrots, parsley, parsnips, table beets, onions, garlic, tomatoes, peppers, legumes, vegetable corn, late potatoes.

2nd year - All types of cabbage, rutabagas, turnips, radishes, radishes, early potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, rutabagas, melons, watermelons, carrots, parsley, parsnips, table beets, onions, garlic, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, legumes, vegetables corn, late potatoes.

3rd year - Cucumbers, pumpkin, zucchini, melon, watermelon, cabbage, turnip, swede, radish, radish, tomatoes, legumes, vegetable corn, late potatoes, carrots, parsley, parsnips, table beets, onions, garlic, early potatoes .

For myself, I discovered the following know-how: potatoes grow best after a sunflower. A similar effect is given by beans and beans, but the sunflower works real miracles! From one planting bucket I collect up to 18 buckets of selected potatoes! After some thought, I began to sow the beans to the potatoes, next to the tuber I always throw a bean. These crops get along well with each other, besides, beans enrich the soil with nitrogen, and the Colorado potato beetle bypasses such a plot.

Just let me give you two tips: choose bush beans, not curly beans, and make more distance between the holes. In principle, for all beginners, I can advise this option: plant sunflowers for the first year, potatoes and beans for the second. You will be pleasantly surprised by the result. If you don't like sunflowers, sow winter rye. The peculiarity of the root system of rye is such that after it the earth retains a loose structure for a long time, which is why potato pests do not get along in it. After all, she freezes well from this ...

STEP FIVE - WE OBSERVE THE LANDING DATE

Potatoes must be planted on time! Such is the simple wisdom. Over time, you will learn to instinctively choose the time to land. It is impossible to plant potato tubers too early or too late - this reduces the yield. The optimal time for planting potatoes coincides with the warming of the soil at a depth of 10 cm to 8-9 gr. By folk omens Potatoes should be planted when the first leaf buds open on the birch. This is an indication that the earth at a depth of 10-12 cm has warmed up to 7-8 degrees. heat, that is, to a temperature at which potatoes must be planted immediately and quickly.

If the tubers are planted earlier than this period, then, having fallen into the cold, damp ground, they will germinate much more slowly, there is also a risk that the tubers will become ill with rhizoctonia, a disease in which the sprouts die. AT middle lane optimal timing potato plantings occur on May 1-10, in the black earth zone at the end of April, in the southern regions - at the end of March or the beginning of April. However, it turns out that in last years the climate is changing a lot. Therefore, each region has its own terms.

If you are a beginner amateur gardener, then the best option is to determine the timing of planting: consult with more experienced neighbors, they will also give good advice regarding soil, fertilizers, pest control, etc. Do not be afraid to ask, share experiences! Why step on a rake when someone else did it for you?!

For planting on garden plots, you can use more accurate landmarks - you need to plant potatoes (and everything else) at a temperature of 10 degrees Celsius, since it is at this temperature that the living substance of the earth begins to awaken. Therefore, regularly measure the temperature with a thermometer. However, from my own experience I know that it is possible to plant potatoes much earlier if frost protection measures are applied. Such early landings in cold soil they give a crop of 40-50% more than in May - June in warm soil. There are no contradictions here. It's all about the specifics. Late plantings, as a rule, suffer from a lack of moisture, as well as from high soil and air temperatures. And early plantings do not experience a lack of moisture. You can protect them from frost. For example, cover with old newspapers, and then with a film. If frosts are expected, when shoots have already appeared, then they can be covered with earth, peat or straw, etc. With warming, it is not necessary to remove such organic material - it will serve you well as humus.

In general, you need to remember that the most favorable temperature for potatoes is 17-18 gr. Reducing heat slows down the growth of plants, makes them susceptible to various diseases. Heat increase over 25 gr. leads to the same thing: to slow growth, to disease. What to do? In the first case - to warm and loosen the soil. In the second - to loosen and mulch, i.e. shade the soil. Mulch with a layer of 3-4 cm reduces the temperature of the soil to 10 gr. It also retains moisture. And this is a very important circumstance, given the high demands of potatoes on the presence of moisture in the soil. In different periods of growth and development, potatoes need water differently. The least moisture is needed at the time of germination and at the time of the death of the tops. But at the time of budding and flowering, the lack of moisture will immediately affect the size of the tubers and, in general, the crop.

STEP SIX. CORRECTLY WE PLANT!

Planting depth is determined by soil and climatic conditions. The colder the climate and the heavier the soil, the shallower the planting depth, and vice versa. Potatoes are planted either on a flat surface, or in pre-made ridges, ridges. The second option is most often used in the northern regions, since when planting on a ridge, the soil warms up much faster. Ridge planting is not successful if drought prevails in your area, otherwise it is what you need!

Not for the first year I have been observing the same mistake of summer residents: they plant potatoes on a flat surface with row spacing of 60-70 cm. This is wrong. I'll explain why. The fact is that with this option, you simply do not have enough soil for hilling, and you risk getting green tubers in which solanine has accumulated. In addition, with this option, the potato turns out to be small (all the power goes into the leaves), and the potato gets sick in this case many times more often. Mostly late blight. After much experimentation, I came to the conclusion that if we are talking about the classic version of potato cultivation, then the best option a row spacing of 90 cm is considered with a distance between tubers in a row of 30 cm. If you decide to try your luck in breeding elite varieties (and rightly so), I advise you to change the scheme by choosing 140x30.

How are combs made? The ridges are cut with a hiller or poured with a shovel from 15 to 35 cm high. If the height of the ridges is 15 cm, then the distance between them is usually 60-70 cm, and the tubers are planted to a depth of 6-8 cm. If the earth is very wet, then the height of the ridge can be and more. Carry out the first hilling a week after planting, after it 20 cm of earth will appear above the tuber, after the second hilling the height will become 35 cm, and this is quite enough for the tuber to develop well.

By the way, I plant large tubers with an interval of 40 cm, medium ones at 35 cm. If you use cut tubers, then the planting is compacted - the distance between plants is 30 cm.

I also have an experimental garden: every little thing gets there. However, on this bed I work out different sowing options. For example, planting a tuber in a hole filled with water and ash. Believe it or not, this method gives amazing results.

IMPORTANT!

When planting in the hole, put onion peel and ashes, cover the tuber with turf on top. And cover the bed with a layer of freshly cut grass (7-8 cm), this should be done at least three to four times after emergence. With any method of planting, it is necessary to close the tubers to the same depth, ensuring the uniformity of seedlings, leave a layer of loose soil under the tubers, place the plants in even rows, at the same distance from each other - this creates an optimal light regime.

More uniform lighting is achieved when the rows are arranged from north to south. I hope I don't have to tell you that planting potatoes in the shade of trees is a waste of time? Potato is a light-loving crop. Plant in the shade, the harvest will not live up to expectations: the stems of the plants will be thin, elongated, and the tubers will be small. Planted in a place open to the sun, it forms a powerful tops with a large leaf surface, which form large tubers.

STEP SEVEN -HILLING, WATERING, FOOD

The first hilling must be carried out before the first shoots appear, the height of the ridges depends on weather conditions: the more precipitation, the higher the ridge. If your soil is heavy, sticking together into lumps, then it is necessary to use hilling, and in the northern zones, where it rains more often, use planting in ridges, since the ridges warm up better, aerate, and also save potatoes from getting wet during prolonged rains .

Hilling primarily improves gas exchange in the mound, where the tubers are poured. The higher the mound is, the more lateral underground shoots will develop in it, the number of stolons will increase on them, which ensure the growth of the crop. The process of hilling itself loosens the soil. And closes the moisture in the soil. A practical conclusion follows from this: it is useful to carry out hilling after each rain or watering.

Another general requirement is the need for hilling during the period of bud formation. At this time, general tuberization begins. And therefore, it is necessary not only to rake the earth to the stems, but also to move apart, spread the stems to the sides. Indeed, to form an increased yield, the plant needs more sun, and therefore it is necessary to give room for the formation of foliage. It is in the leaves that carbon dioxide and other nutrients are converted with the help of solar energy into carbohydrates, including tuber starch. After hilling, it is useful to apply liquid top dressing "under the stake", and sprinkle the aisles with mulch. This mulch (other than the above) will slow down the emergence of weeds that will lack sunlight. And most importantly, it will turn on the air irrigation mechanism, i.e. dew falling in loose soil. Here's how it's done: with a pointed stick (stake), a hole 20 cm deep is pressed into the ground between the plants, and a fertilizer solution is poured into this hole. This is done before hilling. It turns out that the place for pouring is in the middle of the triangle, at an equal distance between the three bushes, so three bushes will use your top dressing at once. The solution will enter far enough from the fragile roots, that is, it will not burn them and will not damage them. And then the plant will find a way to use top dressing and your intervention is not required.

For top dressing, bird droppings should be used. It contains all the main nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium - and, moreover, in approximately the same ratios that plants need. Therefore, top dressing with bird droppings can be used for any crop. The benefit of the solution increases when ash is added to it (2: 1). Prepare a nutrient solution from bird droppings as follows.

A day before top dressing, litter is poured into a barrel or some other container (up to half) and filled to the top with water. Then the litter is thoroughly mixed, lumps are broken. For top dressing, the solution is diluted with ten parts of water and poured "under the stake" on the basis that 6 - 10 kg of dry bird droppings with ash is required per hundred square meters of land. A good additive to increase the yield is the introduction of silt from lakes and swamps into the soil, as well as duckweed. After fertilizing, the soil must be loosened or spud potatoes. Accelerates the ripening of tubers and foliar top dressing. The tops are sprayed with a solution of ammonium nitrate and copper sulfate. (For ten acres, 250 g of saltpeter, 10 g of vitriol, dissolved in 40 liters of water) The best time is morning and evening.

Foliar feeding stimulates the outflow of accumulated substances from the tops to the tubers. This not only accelerates their maturation, but also increases the starch content and increases the yield.

IMPORTANT!

IRRIGATION FEATURES

Potato is a crop that is very demanding on watering, but only with the onset of budding, since tubers are laid during this period. At the same time, potatoes do not like waterlogging, so the site must be well-drained.

Moisture is needed: - 2-3 weeks after germination (abundant watering is needed 15-20 liters of water per 1 sq. meter); - during the formation of tubers (in the budding phase); - in early August, when there is an intensive accumulation of the crop.

Remember: rains and waterings in June-July determine the number of tubers, and rains and waterings in July-August determine the weight of tubers.

Effect of irrigation on potato yield and quality

- The harvest grows by 10-30%.

- Early watering increases the number of tubers, reduces the average size of the tubers and accelerates the ripening of the tops.

- The starch content increases slightly, but watering in late summer and heavy rainfall can reduce this.

- The distribution of tubers in size is evened out.

- Significantly reduced scab with proper early watering.

- Improves the appearance of tubers. Less cracks, deformation, voids and brown

potato spotting.

- Increased flouriness, boilability, wateriness decreases. Slightly reduced browning during cooking.

- The content of nitrates in the tuber decreases, the content of phosphorus increases.

- Potato black leg may appear if the original seeds were bad.

- Increasing demand for nutrients.

Let's talk about fertilizer:

We have already talked about the benefits and value of organic fertilizers and that on average 500-1000 kg of rotted

manure or compost. However, to provide potatoes with a sufficient amount of nutrients, it is also necessary to apply mineral fertilizers in the form of superphosphate, potassium chloride and ammonium nitrate.

(5-6 kg per hundred square meters), nitrophoska (10-20 kg) per hundred square meters. good fertilizer

is wood ash (30 kg per hundred square meters). Please note that when entering

mineral fertilizers in the wells, the dosage is reduced by 2-3 times.

A particularly good effect is given by the local application of organomineral salts per 1 hectare

100 kg of humus, 1.5 kg of superphosphate and 0.5 kg of ammonium nitrate.

I use bird droppings for potatoes in dried form, before feeding

or by planting potatoes, I chop them. Others breed him. In this case

There are no universal tips: do what is convenient for you. In time you will find yours

option.

You can also apply well-decomposed peat under potatoes - this is an ideal fertilizer for heavy clay and loamy soils.

Fertilizing with liquid organic fertilizers also gives good results.

Just remember that the solution must be prepared in advance so that fermentation begins. 1.5 liters of mullein solution (1:6) or bird droppings are added to 1 bush. After watering, the soil must be loosened, the potatoes spud.

STEP EIGHT - ALTERNATIVE WAYS TO GROW POTATOES

Unfortunately, not all of us can boast of large garden areas,

more often it turns out that at the disposal of summer residents a plot of 6 acres, or even three. Where can you grow huge crops here? Luckily they come to the rescue.

alternative options for growing potatoes.

Here are the most effective ones:

Growing potatoes under straw:

Potatoes have been grown under straw for hundreds of years. The method is reliable and

as they say, verified. The advantages of this method are obvious: straw is an excellent mulch that provides potato tubers with warmth, moisture, and air access.

and decomposing organic fertilizer material, protection from direct light, and inhibits weed growth.

Potatoes grown in straw are more even and clean, and the possibility of damaging the tubers during harvest is eliminated. This method is more suitable for growing late-ripening potatoes. When growing potatoes in straw, it is necessary to ensure that the tubers are always covered with a thick layer of straw, and that they do not get

light.

The soil should be loose and fertile. In the process of growing potatoes, fresh

straw is added as needed when the old one rots or is nailed to the ground. Mature potato tubers will lie on the surface of the earth under a layer of straw, they can be harvested as they ripen, gently lifting the straw, and leaving the unripe tubers to ripen on the plant.

It is done like this. Select a site for planting in the country.

It is not necessary to dig it up, as well as to apply nutritious fertilizers.

After that, spread the potato tubers at a distance of 30 cm, and cover them with a 30-40 cm layer of straw on top.

This completes the landing. But all the care for her will come down to the fact that occasionally you will have to put a new layer of straw and water it. By the way, if you do not have fresh straw, then you can completely replace it with dry grass. Also note that you do not need to spud grown potatoes.

And the last thing that is required of you is to harvest in the fall. Although if you

in this way, early potatoes were planted, then the harvest will be harvested much earlier.

Growing potatoes in a barrel:

Potatoes are grown in a barrel, as are tomatoes. But there are some excellent

points to consider if you want to achieve good results.

Firstly, if a tomato seedling was planted alone in a barrel, then potatoes

it is planted much more often (since it does not form stepchildren), approximately every 20 cm, and if the container for growing is round in cross section, we plant it in diameter, if it is square, in a checkerboard pattern.

Secondly, since a lot of plants will be planted, for the supply of oxygen

root systems of all plants made in the sides of the barrel holes will be clearly

not enough.

Therefore, in order to avoid oxygen starvation in the root zone, it is necessary to apply

in fact, one gardening trick. I tell you which one.

Before putting nutrients and drainage into the barrel, to the very bottom

put down the rubber hose. It must be laid in a snake in a spiral - so that the distance between the turns is about 10 cm. In the hose, every 15-20 cm, make slit-like cuts 2-3 cm long with a knife.

Attention! It is slotted, not round! As long as there is no pressure in the hose, the edges

cuts are closed and not clogged with earth, but if holes are made, they

in time they will be covered with earth.

Next, bring the outer end of the hose out of the barrel, and the inner end tightly

shut up. This is done so that with an ordinary pump 2-3 times a week, in

pump air into the root zone for 5-10 minutes.

Thirdly (and this is very important!), Filling the barrel with soil mixture in layers, it is impossible

let the sprouts fully hatch. In other words, as soon as the sprout reaches the upper boundary of the soil layer, it is necessary to immediately fill up the next layer. If you overlook, and the sprouts fully hatch, i.e., form the green part, then the root system will no longer form further from the green part of the plant.

These are general tips, and now let's go through the technique of growing potatoes in barrels

in more detail.

To get started, stock up on containers. It is not at all necessary that these be barrels, large plastic containers for garbage, or other large containers that you have in the country, will also do. Treat the entire container with a mild bleach solution to prevent plant diseases.

Growing potatoes in the country in this way primarily implies good drainage, so be sure to make small (about 2 cm) holes in the bottom of the container.

Optionally, you can even cut off the entire bottom, if you plan to put the container on the soil of the site.

After that, pour the drainage mixture to a depth of 12-18 cm at the bottom of the container.

For example, it can be a mixture of compost, moss and nutshells. This mixture will help retain moisture for the root system of plants. The next layer is nutritious, a mixture of compost, soil and turf in a ratio of 1: 1: 1 is also 10 cm.

Place the tubers on a layer of soil. Make sure they are not too far apart.

close to each other. After that, cover the potatoes with a layer of soil (12-14 cm) and plentifully

water. It is important that the soil is moist all the time, but it is also not worth overwatering the plants.

When the plants grow up, it is necessary to make the first addition of soil with compost. The main thing

do not be late: you need to add it before the leaves begin to form, otherwise the development of the root system will stop. Thus, you need to fill the barrel with earth by about 3/4.

In July, potatoes need to be fed, by this time they are contained in the ground

fertilizers will already be recycled. It is best to feed with a solution of compost.

To prepare it, fill a third of a 100-liter barrel with compost, add water to the rest,

and let it sit for a day. Fertilize with this mixture at least once (optimally 2-3 times) a week.

When the potato bushes turn yellow and dry, you can “open” the barrel.

Up to two buckets of potatoes are collected from one barrel.

Growing potatoes in a box:

Growing potatoes in containers is especially suitable for those who do not have a large garden with beds. Growing vegetables in containers also saves a lot of energy and time. In many ways, this method is similar to growing potatoes in a barrel.

Boxes of meter parameters are taken as a box. Free the box from the bottom.

If the material of the container allows, then you need to drill the entire surface with small

holes. This is necessary in order to provide air access for the rhizomes of potatoes.

Urgasy concentrate is placed at the bottom of the tank (the most valuable fertilizer in EM technology, which is prepared from food waste).

Then, on the urgas, you need to lay out a soil mixture consisting of prepared compost, soddy soil and ordinary soil, which are taken in equal proportions. Potatoes are required to be planted on the soil layer. We must not forget to fertilize the crop and maintain an optimal water-air balance in the soil.

STEP NINE - FIGHT PESTS AND DISEASES!

We can't get away from pests. It is a fact. However, if armed with knowledge

and take preventive measures, then you can minimize the appearance of pests. First of all, as I said above, it is necessary to green the tubers and process them in

special disinfecting solutions, and then prevention, prevention and again prevention!

Thiazon, DD (nematicidal mixture), carbation, heterophos and urea. Tiazon contribute

2.7 kg per hundred square meters (powder is scattered over the surface of loose soil and buried).

It is best applied in autumn or early spring at least 30 days before planting.

After treatment with thiazon, nematode-resistant varieties can be planted.

Wireworms, or clickers

A dangerous pest of potatoes, it is a larva of the click beetle. Wireworms live in the ground and damage stolons, roots, stem bases and especially tubers. Potato. The larvae gnaw through the tuber, forming passages, which often leads to its decay.

Methods of prevention or control

All types of ammonia-containing fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium chloride). The use of ammonia water is effective. Soil liming. The wireworm does not like soils with high Ph. However, do not overdo it - an increase in Ph contributes to the development of common scab. Treatment of tubers before germination. The use of bait crops. To do this, the seeds of oats, barley are treated with insecticides (Decis, Karate, etc.), dried and sown on the site 2-3 weeks before planting potatoes.

Frequent and thorough loosening of the soil and the destruction of weeds, especially creeping wheatgrass. The introduction of the chemical drug Bazudin (granular), or the insecticide Aktar into the soil for spraying the bottom of the furrow during planting.

Colorado beetle

One of the most dangerous potato pests. Beetles and larvae damage (eat) vegetative organs and potato tubers. Hot weather is most favorable for the development of this insect. The permanent cultivation of potatoes in one area contributes to the accumulation of the pest. Collection of beetles and larvae by hand.

Pour a bucket of potato peelings with a solution of karbofos (0.5 l of water 1-2 tablespoons of karbofos). Before planting, lay out the poison in several holes at a depth of 25 cm. Morning pollination of tops with clean sifted ash.

Medvedka

Large (up to 50 mm long) brown insect with digging legs and short elytra. Medvedka is widespread and widespread. Adult insects and larvae harm. Laying passages near the surface of the soil, they gnaw through the roots and stems of plants.

In autumn, you can use a mixture of water with kerosene (100 g per 10 liters of water), which is poured into the pest holes at the rate of 30 g each.

In places where there are accumulations of bear moves, a 3-liter jar is dug into the ground so that the neck is at ground level. Medvedki fall there, but they cannot get out.

You can pour some beer into the jar, because. The smell is very pleasant to these insects. At the same time, keep in mind that bears crawl along upper layers land only until Peter's Day (July 12), and then go deep into the earth. Therefore, it is possible to fight them only until this time. Medvedki are also very afraid of soapy water. Pour a strong solution of water into the holes with laundry soap. When they get out, destroy them! And if they don’t get to the surface, then they will die there.

naked slugs

They are worm-like mollusks with a body covered with mucus. They have a hard, sharp-toothed tongue. Bare slugs cause great harm in wet years, mainly in low areas, on loamy or clay soil. On the plant, slugs make holes in the leaves, eat away deep cavities in the root crops.

Methods of prevention or control

Carefully cultivate the soil, remove weeds. To shield garden plants from slugs, before planting, you can make grooves and then pour lime, ash, tobacco dust, ground hot pepper on the bottom. The grooves become a barrier to slugs. It is advisable to use dry mineral fertilizers (potassium salt, superphosphate), scattering them on the soil around the plant. Moreover, one such treatment is not enough. The first treatment acts on slugs only intimidatingly, and only the second guarantees complete destruction. The treatment interval is 30-40 minutes.

Brown spotting and chlorotic leaves

The appearance of this physiological potato disease is due to a lack of magnesium in the soil. Most often, this manifests itself along the edges of the leaf lobes due to the death of tissues in these places. With severe magnesium starvation, chloroticity also spreads between the veins.

Methods of prevention or control

Top dressing with magnesium sulfate or potassium magnesia at the rate of 10-15 g per 10 liters of water, dolomite flour (15-20 g) or wood ash, 25-30 g per 1 sq. m.

ring rot

Attacks potato tubers. First, pink or brown spots and cracks appear, then the vascular system becomes infected, acquiring a yellow color, clearly visible on the cut. Later, with the development of harmful microorganisms, the affected areas darken, gradually spreading to the entire tuber.

Methods of prevention or control

It is necessary to carefully select healthy tubers, disinfect storage, apply moderate doses of nitrogen and use varieties that are more resistant to ring rot - Ideal, Berlichingen ..

wet rot

The disease manifests itself during storage. When affected, the potato softens and moistens, turning into a slimy mass of dark brown or pink color with an unpleasant odor.

Methods of prevention or control

Reduce the temperature in the places where potatoes are stored, remove diseased tubers, sprinkle with ashes, systematically ventilate the room and put containers with quicklime to reduce humidity.

Dry rot

The disease is transmitted during storage of affected or mechanically damaged tubers. Its development is facilitated by increased doses of nitrogen fertilizer, including excess manure. In places of defeat, dark brown spots are formed, soft to the touch. There are wrinkled concentric folds with pads of various colors.

Methods of prevention or control

Carefully select healthy tubers, dry and store in dry rooms at a temperature of 0-2 o C.

Gothic (spindle tubers)

In affected plants, the leaves are located at an acute angle to the stem and decrease in size. The leaf blade becomes rough. The disease affects the formation of tubers, which acquire a spindle shape.

Methods of prevention or control

Acquisition of healthy planting material, free from viruses and other diseases. Careful protection of landings from the introduction of infection from other sites.

Mottling

Potato leaves and tubers are affected. The leaf blade of diseased plants is colored unevenly. The disease greatly reduces the yield and degrades the quality of the tubers.

Methods of prevention or control

To protect plants from this disease, tubers from apparently healthy plants are used for planting. Plantings during the summer are protected from aphids, bedbugs and cicadas, which are carriers of viruses.

macrosporiosis

It affects leaves, stems and tubers of potatoes. The leaves are covered with dry concentric brown spots. The fabric in these places collapses and crumbles in dry weather, resulting in the formation of holes of various sizes. With severe damage, the leaf blade turns yellow and dries.

Methods of prevention or control

The disease is transmitted through the affected plant debris and tubers, so they must be removed and destroyed. Only healthy material is used for planting.

striped mosaic

Virus disease of potato. Strongly affects plants and reduces the yield of tubers. Onai appears on the veins of the lower side of the leaves and stems in the form of longitudinal stripes. The disease leads to early aging and death of plants.

Methods of prevention or control

Use of healthy planting material; protection of plantings from insect carriers of viruses.

Common (actinomycotic) scab

Widespread fungal disease of tubers. Warts and ulcers appear on them, which sometimes merge, covering the entire tuber. Affected tubers lose their marketable appearance and taste, and are also stored worse, since scab contributes to the introduction of dry and wet rot pathogens into the tubers.

Scab spreads through contaminated soil and tubers.

Methods of prevention or control

1. Treatment of tubers before germination.

2. Compliance with irrigation schedules.

3. Proper tillage.

Scab causes excessive fertilization of the soil with unripe manure.

potato cancer

The disease affects tubers, root neck, stems and leaves. On the above-ground organs, growths are formed in the form of corals 10-12 cm in size, painted green. On tubers and stolons, the disease is detected as a white growth, gradually darkening and greatly increasing in size,

often resembling a head of cauliflower in shape. Most effective tool The fight against the disease is the cultivation of cancer-resistant varieties - Priekulsky early, Falensky, Vesna, Detskoselsky, Gatchinsky, Sulev, Olev, Shpekula, etc. Potatoes cannot be planted in infected areas for 5-6 years. Containers and tools must be thoroughly washed and treated with pesticides, and the affected plant remains and burn the tubers.

Rhizoctonia, or black scab

A widespread fungal disease of potatoes that affects roots, tubers and the base of stems. Sclerotia are formed on the tubers - black warts, similar to lumps of soil dried to the tubers. As a result of the disease, the emergence of potato seedlings is delayed, the number of stems per bush and their height are significantly reduced.

Methods of prevention or control

1. Light germination of tubers and adherence to planting dates.

2. Before planting, pickle the tubers in a 1% solution of boric acid.

late blight

The most common fungal disease of potatoes. It affects leaves, stems and tubers, usually after flowering of potatoes, especially in moderately warm and humid weather. On the leaves, the symptoms of the disease appear in the form of dark brown spots. The spots grow rapidly, the leaves turn black and the plant dies.

On the underside of the leaves along the edges of the spots, a white coating of sporulation of the fungus is formed. Most often formed on early ripening varieties.

Methods of prevention or control

1. Treat the tubers before planting.

2. If found, destroy the affected stems.

3. Once a week, spray with a solution of copper sulfate (2 g) or boric acid (50 mg), or potassium permanganate (10 mg) per 10 liters of water. An equally effective drug is Bordeaux liquid (a mixture of copper sulphate with lime). It is prepared immediately before spraying. In 9 liters of water, dilute 100 g of copper sulfate and add 1 liter of 10% milk of lime. To obtain milk, it is necessary to dilute the lime in water and stir so that there are no lumps.

leaf chlorosis

A high content of calcium, characteristic of carbonate soils, in dry years can cause leaf chlorosis, which is repeated in the second year. This violation is accompanied by wrinkling of the leaves and the appearance of a dark brown color of the vascular system of tubers.

Methods of prevention or control

Do not allow the soil to dry out and use mineral fertilizers that contribute to its acidification: ammonium sulfate, urea, etc. A lack of manganese causes chloroticity and a decrease in the size of the leaves at the top, their blanching or redness. Black-brown dots appear along the veins of young leaves. To eliminate deviations in the growth of potato plants, they are fed with manganese sulfate at the rate of 5-7 g per 10 liters of water.

Blackleg

A widespread bacterial disease of potatoes. It manifests itself in the form of damage to the root part of the stems during the growing season ("black leg") and rotting of tubers ("soft rot") in the field and during storage. In infected bushes, the lower part of the stem and roots rot and turn black, and the leaves turn yellow and curl up. Sick plants are oppressed, easily pulled out of the soil.

Methods of prevention or control

During the growing season, before budding, it is necessary to spray the tops and soil with a solution - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of copper sulfate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of liquid soap per 10 liters. water. Spraying in the morning. Remove diseased plants from the site and burn. Powder the place with a mixture of ash with copper sulphate (1 tsp of copper sulphate per glass of ash). Sort the tubers and dry.

STEP TEN - CHOOSE VARIETIES OF POTATOES

Before choosing potato varieties, I strongly recommend paying attention to such properties as: ripening period, resistance to diseases, adverse environmental factors, taste characteristics. More than once or twice I have come across the fact that summer residents plant only one variety on their site.

At the very least, this is short-sighted. Choose varieties that differ in precocity. Let's say, early varieties more efficiently use the moisture accumulated in the soil in the first half of summer, medium-ripe varieties use precipitation that fell in July and early August.

Early varieties give a harvest in 50-65 days after planting, mid-early - in 65-80 days, mid-ripening - in 80-95 days, medium-late - in 95-110 days, well, late, respectively, after 110 days.

OSTARA

Early, productive, reliable variety. The tubers are large, oblong, the variety has excellent taste and is resistant to viral diseases.

ZHUKOVSKY EARLY

Early maturing: 70-80 days. A plastic variety that gives high yields in various soil and climatic conditions. When planted in the soil, the tubers actively germinate, even at low temperatures. Tubers with a pink color, aligned, are stored for a long time. One of the best varieties in terms of taste. Drought tolerant. Resistant to scab, potato nematode and rhizoctoniosis.

CLEOPATRA

early ripe, high co productive variety. Has a high yield. Suitable for frying and boiling. Susceptible to scab, but not susceptible to late blight. Resistant to drought and mechanical damage. Grows on clay and sandy soils.

SPRING WHITE

Early ripe: 70-80 days Table variety with high marketability. Tubers are white, oval, for household needs appear in 55-60 days (become maturing in 70-80 days), good taste. The mass of a marketable tuber is 100-185 g. It is stored well, but is mainly used as a fresh early potato. Moderately resistant to rhizoctoniosis and common scab, susceptible to late blight.

TIMO HANKKIYAN

Early maturing: 70-80 days Variety from Finland, table, productive, suitable for growing on all types of soil.

Tubers are white, rounded, good taste, stored for a long time. The mass of a marketable tuber is 65-120 g. Shoots are friendly and powerful. The variety is resistant to high temperatures, drought and waterlogging. Resistant to rhizoctoniosis, black leg, scab, moderately resistant to late blight.

LUCK

Early ripe: 70-80 days. A popular high-yielding table variety suitable for both summer and winter consumption. Tubers are oval, white, with high palatability. The mass of marketable tuber is 90-120 g.

The variety is resistant to late blight and black leg, moderately resistant to damage by the Colorado potato beetle.

LATON

An early, highly productive variety. Tubers are round-oval, with yellow skin, pale yellow flesh and superficial eyes. Resistant to scab, late blight, cancer and mechanical damage. High yield in a short growing season.

SANTE

Mid-early: 80-90 days High-yielding Dutch variety for universal use. Tubers are large, oval-shaped with yellow skin and light yellow flesh, good taste. Possesses good marketability and safety. Suitable for processing into french fries.

Resistant to potato nematode, late blight, viruses, moderately resistant to common scab, susceptible to rhizoctoniosis.

CONDOR

Mid-early: 80-90 days Table high-yielding Dutch variety with high marketability. The tubers are large, elongated-oval, with red skin and light yellow pulp. Well kept and excellent palatability. The mass of a marketable tuber is 90-180 g. The variety is resistant to viral diseases and common scab, susceptible to late blight.

ROMANO

Mid-early: 80-90 days A highly marketable Dutch table variety that is growing in popularity. The tubers are round-oval regular shape, the skin is pink, strong, not damaged during harvesting, the flesh is light cream, the taste is good. The mass of a marketable tuber is 70-80 g. The tops develop quickly and tolerate drought well.

The variety is moderately resistant to late blight, rhizoctoniosis. Susceptible to common scab.

NEVSKY

Medium early: 80-90 days. High-yielding table variety with high marketability and excellent taste. The tubers are round-oval in shape, the skin and flesh are white. The mass of a marketable tuber is 90-130 g. The preservation of the tubers is good. The variety is resistant to rhizoctoniosis, moderately resistant to late blight, common scab. Resistant to drought and waterlogging of the soil.

STORY

Medium early: 80-90 days. High-yielding variety with good marketability. The tubers are oval, the skin is yellow, the flesh is white. The safety is good. The mass of a marketable tuber is 76-129 g. The variety is multi-tuberous: it can produce up to 30 or more potatoes per bush. Resistant to late blight, susceptible to nematodes.

LUGOVSKY

Mid-season: 90-110 days. High-yielding table variety with high marketability and good taste of tubers. The tubers are oval in shape, the skin is light pink, the flesh is white, the preservation is good. The mass of a commercial tuber is 85-125 g. The variety is resistant to late blight, common scab, moderately resistant to black leg.

DESIRE

Medium late variety. The tubers are large, oval, with red skin and light yellow flesh. Grows on different types of soil, is not picky about the conditions. Resistant to mechanical damage, moderately resistant to scab, has good resistance to drought and heat.

AGRIA

Mid-late: 110-120. days High-yielding Dutch variety of universal use, suitable for industrial processing. Tubers are elongated-oval, yellow in color, with yellow flesh. Security is high. The mass of a marketable tuber is 72-135 g.

The variety has high taste qualities. Resistant to potato nematode, susceptible to late blight and common scab.

STEP ELEVEN - HARVESTING AND STORING THE HARVEST

The formation of the crop ends by the time the tops dry. In the last 30-40 days before its natural death, intensive tuberization occurs, the accumulation of dry matter and starch in the tubers is activated.

10-15 days before harvesting potatoes, when the fourth or third part of the foliage of the plants turns yellow, it is useful to cut and remove the tops, leaving stumps 7-10 cm high. The bottom line is that when the tops dry, all diseases move to tubers. Therefore, they are poorly stored and rot. In addition, cut tops cause the plant to accelerate the ripening of tubers.

IMPORTANT!

In plants of early and mid-early varieties, if you leave them until the autumn harvest, removing the tops is a must! Harvesting of mid-ripening varieties is carried out no earlier than 90-100 days after planting, medium-late - after 100-110, late - after 120.

In most Russian regions, potato harvesting begins on August 20-25 (mid-ripening) and September 1 (mid-late), of course, depending on weather conditions.

It is desirable to harvest potatoes in dry or windy weather. Dug out tubers should be dried in the furrow for 1-2 hours before packing. Such drying facilitates the separation of the earth from the tubers and reduces the defeat of potatoes by late blight, wet rot and other diseases. If weather conditions do not allow drying the tubers in the furrow, then be sure to do it under a canopy. And keep the potatoes in the light as little as possible (except for seeds). And one more piece of advice: never, under any circumstances, leave the dug out potatoes overnight in the furrow! It is impossible to cover dug tubers with tops! When harvesting, potatoes are placed in three baskets (boxes). In one - strong tubers from the best bushes, in the other - healthy tubers for long-term storage, in the third - small, ugly, cut, partially diseased.

Seed tubers are stored separately by varieties. Having received a large harvest, care must be taken to preserve it. For storage, it is necessary to lay mature potatoes that are not damaged during harvesting.

In order for less damaged tubers to slip through in the total mass, it is necessary to carry out a "treatment period", i.e. Hold the collected potatoes for up to two weeks in a dry, dark place at a temperature of 12-18 degrees.

Then a protective layer is formed on the damaged areas of the potato, which makes it possible to resist rotting. - the room where the potatoes will be stored (walls, bulkheads and floors), wash the milk hot water with lye. Dry the room and ventilate; - fumigate boxes, baskets and the whole room with sulfur, which kills infectious agents. Sulfur can be bought at a pharmacy, or obtained from chemistry teachers at school.

And to fumigate means to take a small amount of sulfur, set it on fire (on a tin) and smoke with thick creeping smoke ... smoke; - after fumigating with sulfur, the room must be ventilated again. Whitewash the walls, ceiling, bulkheads and floors of the compartments with lime. Boil the bags in water and dry; - it is possible to disinfect the storage and containers with formalin solution (1 liter of 40% formalin per 40 liters of water). After processing, the storage is closed for two days, and then ventilated.

Before backfilling for storage, potatoes must be cleaned of dirt, sorted, and dried. The thickness of the layer of tubers in the barrels should not exceed 1.5 meters;

In the bins and bins there should be a slatted floor raised 25-30 cm above the storage floor. The walls are made with gaps between the boards, which provides natural ventilation.

The first month after harvesting the tubers, the potatoes must be dried, as it releases a lot of moisture. Therefore, the lids of the bins and ventilation pipes must be kept open, and in good weather, open the doors;

The air temperature in the potato storage should be kept from 2 to 7 degrees Celsius. When needed, heat the room. If the temperature rises above 3 degrees, you need to open the ventilation pipes, and in good weather - the doors. It is clear that in storage for this you need to keep a thermometer.

Check potatoes regularly, turn and ventilate. If you follow all the above rules, then your harvests will be larger from year to year - to the delight of the whole family!

Good luck with your big harvest!!!