Fragrant daffodil. Groups of daffodils with photos, names and descriptions of varieties

Narcissus, or Narcissus, belongs to the genus of monocotyledonous plants and is a member of the amaryllis family. Features are the presence of bulbs and ribbon-like leaves of various widths. The flowers are located at the top of the leafless stems, which are covered with a filmy wrap.

Features of daffodils

Flowers can be single or be arranged in several pieces at once. The perianth has a petal-like shape and looks like a tubular funnel, which passes into a straightened limb. It consists of six identical parts. The appearance of the flower is a solid or lobed bell, which has six stamens and a trihedral lower ovary.

The presence of a strong, intoxicatingly sweet smell made it possible in ancient times to use narcissus oil in perfumery. Narcissus is very common in Europe. It is especially grown in Mediterranean countries. There are varieties and species that grow in Asia, Japan and China.

• Trumpet
• Small-cupped
• Triandrus
• Jonquilla and Apodanthus
• Poeticus
• Split-corona: Collar
• Miscellaneous
• Large-cupped
• Double
• Cyclamineus
• Tazetta
• Bulbocodium
• Split-corona: Papillon
• Species

Photo gallery

Daffodil varieties

In nature, there are about 60 types of these flowers. In addition, a huge number of different varieties and hybrids of this magnificent flower have been bred. Narcissus breeding has been replenished with 35 thousand new varieties.

The following types of daffodils are most popular and in demand among flower growers:

• Tubular, or trumpet. Differs in the presence of large, single flowers that have a bell-shaped crown with a very long tube. The color range is represented by white, yellow, less often two-tone flowers.
• Large-cupped, or large-cupped... The special sizes of a single flower and bracts are characteristic. The short crown occupies a third of the perianth. The color scheme is very diverse.
• Small-cupped, or small-cupped. This group of daffodils closely resembles natural and wild varieties. They differ in rather small sizes of flowers. Most often they can be seen in wildlife photos.
• Terry, or double. This group of daffodils contains several subgroups at once. They come with additional perianth lobes; with a terry tube or crown; with a double perianth; have several flowers on one peduncle. Photo of terry daffodils most often decorates calendars.
• Triandrus, or Triandrus. This species belongs to the multi-flowered daffodils, in the breeding of which the three-stalked daffodil was involved. The color range is white or yellow.
• Cyclameniform, or Cyclamineus. Differs in the presence of characteristic drooping, single flowers, which, with their length, have a narrow tube and bent perianth lobes.
• Jonquilla, or Jonquilla. The low stems are equipped with a significant number of small, strong-smelling flowers. A very decorative type of daffodil.
• Multi-flowered, or Bunch-flowered. The name of this type of daffodil speaks for itself. A peduncle can have more than eight flowers. Photos of such daffodils can often be found in magazines.

Interesting combinations of daffodils with other plants

Daffodils are flowers that look great in combination with other plants. An interesting and bright floral ensemble allows you to get a combination of daffodils and tulips. Suitable neighbors for daffodils with which to decorate a modern flower garden are hyacinths, crocuses and pushkinias.

Daffodil planting rules

Daffodils are perennial flowers. They are distinguished by their shade tolerance, but at the same time they are a light-loving plant. Daffodils are unpretentious, planting does not take much time and effort. These hardy flowers prefer normal garden soil and moderate moisture. The best places for planting are loamy soils with medium shade. A month before planting, fertilizer should be applied to the soil, as well as sand and peat.

Landing takes place at the end of September. This period allows the bulbs to take root even before frost. You can grow daffodils in a pot. Healthy daffodil bulbs should be treated with a disinfectant solution. The pot is filled with a light and nutritious potting mix. The optimum temperature for growth is 20 ° C.

Transplanting to these flowers is not required for several years. It is recommended to grow them in one place for no longer than six seasons.

Daffodil care

Daffodils and their planting require careful attention. Basic care and feeding must be done three times per season. The first feeding is carried out immediately after germination. The second is during the budding period, and the third corresponds to the flowering stage. Daffodils do not need additional fertilizing after flowering. You can find out about by reading an article posted in one of our previous publications.

For bouquets, flowers should not be cut, but broken. This method is less traumatic for a flowering plant.

For breeding and wintering, only healthy and high-quality should be left planting material... Daffodil bulbs should be firm and large. The cover scales should be a healthy white or yellowish color. Flaky scales can be a sign of various fungal diseases.

The flowering period of daffodils is relatively long and extends to April-June. In northern regions with severe winters, daffodils need to be sheltered just before the onset of persistent frosts.

Diseases and pests

Like other plants and flowers, daffodils are susceptible to various diseases, and also often become an object for feeding some pests.

• Fusarium okusporum f. narcissi causes the severe disease of fusarium in daffodils;
• Sclerotinia narcissicola attacks daffodils with sclerocial rot.

Daffodils are susceptible to viral diseases and attack by the following pests:

• root, bulbous and stem nematodes;
• daffodil and bulb flies;
• thrips.

Daffodils varieties (video)

Reviews and comments

(2 estimates, average: 5,00 out of 5)

Marina 04/14/2016

Recently I bought several daffodil bulbs already with sprouts, but without roots (although I found the rudiments of roots in one). I want to plant for distillation. I plan to do this: hold it for 30 minutes in potassium permanganate, then soak it in the root for several hours and plant it in a pot. And what to do with them next? What is the best way to root? Put in the refrigerator in the fruit compartment or put on the windowsill, and after rooting in the refrigerator? I don't know if they were kept in the cold before, but I want to try, suddenly something will work out. Do daffodils, like tulips, need a period in the cold to lay their buds?

Valeria 04/17/2016

For a long time, my love with daffodils was not mutual, and only last year for the first time they pleased me with their flowering. Moreover, the old ones, who have been living on the site for more than 6 years and the newly purchased ones, also bloomed. After that I bought more daffodils. And now I'm looking forward to it. This year, the flower stalks even released 2 varieties, which I bought 4 years ago and it seemed that they completely died, but last year the leaves were released, and this year the flower stalks.

Elena 17.04.2016

I prefer to plant daffodils in the spring, because you can immediately see where which bulbs are growing and where to dig them up. Otherwise, then some of the bulbs will be lost and remain in the ground and some of the varieties will get confused with each other. The main thing is to carefully dig it with a pitchfork (grab it deeper so that the roots are less damaged), it is advisable to do this not on a hot sunny day (so that the roots do not dry out) and plant it as soon as possible after digging.

Inna 05/19/2016

A little advice to lovers of these beautiful flowers, Daffodils can be planted both in an open, sunny place, and among trees, shrubs, which do not give a thick shade in spring. On the open place they bloom earlier and more amicably, but on a slightly shaded flowering is longer, the peduncles are longer, the color remains longer, does not fade.

Milena 05/19/2016

I have been planting my daffodils since early August, although recommended the best time for planting - the second half of August and early September (this is for purchased bulbs). If you are growing your own daffodils, dig up the bulbs first, separate the babies and immediately plant them again.

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In different countries, different stories are told about this flower, but they are all as beautiful as the main character himself - narcissus... In the article you can read species diversity of these plants, about which there are many legends, and which today are one of the most popular spring flowers both in summer cottages and city flower beds.

Daffodils - history and legends

Daffodils and Persians

Most likely, the first people who started this bulbous spring plant were the Persians. By the way, in addition to daffodils, the Persians gave us.

The ancient Persians had a king Cyrus I, who not only founded the Achaemenid dynasty, but also made a lot of efforts to breed daffodils as a garden culture. And the king called this flower only “ immortal delight created by beauty».

In Persian poetry, both ancient and modern, narcissus (nargis) is used as a common noun, denoting the look or eyes of a beloved. Yes, what can I say, the beauty of these flowers was sung by the prophet Magomed himself: "Whoever has two loaves, let him sell one to buy a daffodil flower, for bread is food for the body, and daffodil is food for the soul."

Greeks about Narcissus

The most beautiful legend about this flower, perhaps, among the ancient Greeks. It tells about a beautiful, pristine lake. The gods protected the lake from people and animals, from dust and dirt. Even the wind did not disturb the clear and beautiful surface of the lake, only the thick dark green turf served as a worthy frame for this miraculous mirror.

Once the gods were distracted, and a beautiful young man, Narcissus, accidentally came to the shore of the lake. He was hunting game, tired, he was tormented by thirst. The young man bent over the lake to drink and saw himself reflected in the water. And then misfortune befell him, Narcissus was so beautiful that he fell in love with his reflection. An ardent feeling pierced his heart so hard that he could not tear himself away from the mirror-like surface of the lake.

It all ended very sadly, Narcissus died on the shore of self-love. When the young man went to the banks of the Styx, his sisters, Naiads, covering the body of the unfortunate young man with their hair, began to prepare a funeral pyre. But when the fire was ready, Narcissus disappeared, and where he lay, an incredibly beautiful and fragrant flower grew.

Victory symbol in Rome

On the frescoes of ancient Pompeii, you can find images of a narcissus, from which it becomes clear that for the Romans, this flower was a symbol of victory... Warriors who returned victorious were decorated with garlands of daffodils; these flowers were often sacrificed to Pluto and the Furies.

Daffodils in different countries

For Chinese daffodil is a symbol of the new year, they decorate their homes, the altars of the gods, and use it in solemn processions.

In 1570, the chief treasurer of England received several outlandish onions as a gift from the Constantinople ambassador. They fell into the caring hands of the lord's gardeners, who planted a plant on the banks of the Thames, in a garden owned by a nobleman. The bulbs took root and gave daffodil flowers. Since then in England this garden culture surpasses even roses in its popularity.

Swiss a separate holiday was allocated for the narcissist, celebrated on the first Sunday in May. On this day, the streets were decorated with multi-colored flags, and the windows and doors of houses were decorated with garlands of daffodils. These flowers dazzled everywhere - in the hands of the ladies in the form of bouquets, in the buttonholes of gentlemen in the form of boutonnieres, daffodils were even in the manes of horses. And in the evening, the apogee of the holiday came - the battle of flowers, in which the daffodil invariably won.

In Prussia there was another tradition - a girl, when she got married, had to take a daffodil flower with her from her parents' house. She was charged with grooming and cherishing this symbol of love and family well-being. What the girl will have a flower, such will be the family hearth and happiness in the house.

In the old days, European healers offered men a potion made from daffodil bulbs, which should be drunk in order to maintain physical attractiveness in the eyes of women and improve potency. Women also used this remedy, rubbing their breasts with them in order to better maintain its shape.

In Chinese medicine the recipe for using narcissus as a remedies for mastitis... The healers ground the crushed bulbs of the plant with thick rice porridge or rye flour and applied to the affected area 3 times a day, then washed off with warm water. And it still helps!

Nowadays, the essential oils and alkaloids contained in these plants have been found wide application, both in medicine and in perfumery. But, as you know, these plants are most widely used in.

Classification of daffodils

Over the centuries-old history of this plant, people have created order 27 thousand hybrids and varieties of daffodils... Of course, in order to understand this variety of shapes and colors, classification of daffodils, dividing them into 13 groups.

1. Tubular daffodils

These are plants with single flowers, in which the perianth grows in the form of a large tube, equal to or exceeding the size of the perianth lobes. In height, tubular daffodils reach from 15 cm to 45 cm, the color of the flowers is either white, or yellow, or two-color with a snow-white perianth and tube yellow color.

This group of classic daffodils blooming in early or mid-spring, feels great in northern latitudes and tolerates cutting for bouquets. Tubular daffodils can be used for forcing.

Famous varieties:

• "King Alfred" with yellow flowers,
• Mount Hood with flowers of a white shade, when fully expanded they acquire a yellow tint,
• miniature varieties "Little pearl" and "Lilliputian".

2. Large-crowned daffodils

These plants give single flowers, their bristle grows into a tube or bowl, the size of the bunch is one third of the size of the petals. The large-crowned varieties grow up to 60 cm in length, the colors in the monochromatic ones are either white or yellow, the two-tone varieties have a bright orange crown. Can be used for forcing, bouquets, in landscape design.

Famous varieties:

• Carlton with a pleasant smell,
• Salome, with flowers that have white petals, and the calyx is pink with golden edging.

3. Small-crowned daffodils

They also give single flowers, a small crown that grows in the shape of a bowl, which is why it is called a crown. Small-crowned ones do not grow higher than 45 cm.

Most of the varieties of this species form two-colored flowers (white or yellow) with a contrasting crown orange, sometimes the crown has a red border. The flowering period of this species is the longest - from mid-spring to early summer. Suitable for flower beds, forcing, landscape design, cutting.

Most popular variety – « Barrett Browning»With classic, white petals and a bright orange crown.

4. Terry daffodils

Terry daffodils have more perianth shares than other groups, and one peduncle can have from one to 20 flowers. Perianth leaves are arranged in several circles, so this group differs from others in the absence of a tube and a double structure.

Flowers can take on a monochromatic color (shades of white, yellow), or two-color, in which the outer lobes can be either white or yellow, and the inner ones are red or orange. Perfect for cutting into bouquets.

Famous varieties:

• Irene Copeland with creamy white and apricot cream long petals,
• Acropolis with white petals and red streaks in the center, with a wonderful scent,
• Tahiti with yellow and orange-red lobes,
• miniature daffodils, 10 to 15 cm tall, with yellowish flowers.

Rip Van Winkle

5. Triandrus daffodils

They are hybrids Narcissus triandrus, hence the name. Peduncles of these plants have inflorescences of several (2-6 pcs) drooping flowers. In height, this group grows up to 30 cm. Therefore, most often these daffodils are grown for rock gardens and flower arrangements.

The most popular varieties:

• Ice Wings,
• Hawera,
• Liberty Bells.

6. Cyclamen daffodils

They got their name from the progenitor - Narcissus cyclamineus... Its flowers resemble cyclamen; on a peduncle, it forms only one drooping flower with petals bent back and an elegant thin crown - a tube.

Cyclamen-like daffodils are undersized, do not grow above 20 cm. Therefore, they are most often grown for flower beds, alpine hills, curbs. This species blooms earlier than all other small-bulbous ones.

The most famous varieties:

• Jetfire,
• Jack Snip,
• Beryl.

7. Jonquil daffodils

These plants are descendants Narcissus jonquilla and are distinguished by an extremely graceful flower, thin and flexible leaves. Small fragrant flowers of jonquil-shaped daffodils are collected in a brush in the form of an umbrella on a thin peduncle. They are short, 20-30cm in height. They bloom from April to June, are used for flower beds, in one place these bulbs can grow without replanting up to 7 years.

The most famous varieties:

• Baby Moon with small yellow flowers,
• Belle Song with white petals and pinkish cupped crowns.

8. Tacid daffodils

They have small, fragrant, rounded flowers, collected in 4-6 pieces on one peduncle. The color is traditional for daffodils - yellow or white, the shortened crown or calyx is orange.

Tacetal daffodils grow up to 45 cm. A distinctive feature is persistent, hardy, able to easily endure sudden temperature changes. But they prefer areas with a mild climate. Perfect option for forcing.

The most popular varieties:

• Geranium,
• Cragford,
• Grand Soleil d'Or.

9. Poetic daffodils

This is the most beloved group among our amateur flower growers, with single, fragrant, large flowers of classical colors with white petals and a small corrugated flat orange crown with a red border. The plant reaches a height of 50 cm. They bloom later than other daffodils. Most often grown for bouquets.

The most popular poetics :

• "Aktae" (Actaea),
• Sarchedon,
• Red Rim.

One of the shortest, early-flowering daffodils, the flowers are small with sharp-leaved bright yellow petals and a large funnel-shaped crown. For this they were nicknamed "hoop-skirt".

In garden culture, they are very rare; in nature, the area of ​​natural growth is the mountains of the Mediterranean (at least 3000 above sea level).

11. Split-Crowned Daffodils

Also one of the most popular varieties of daffodils among Russian flower growers. These hybrids of large-crowned daffodils are distinguished by the shape of the crown, resembling a butterfly, tricolor, and large flowers. In height, this group grows up to 50cm.

The most famous varieties:

• "Valdrome" (Narcissus Valdrome),
• Cassata,
• Orangery,
• Pink Wonder.

Orangery

12. Other daffodils

This group includes new varieties of daffodils that were not included in the previous groups. Most attractive in this subgroup , having a large corrugated crown with deep cuts, the lobes of the crown between the cuts are bent, which gives the flower a rather unusual look. The crown can be either red, orange, white or yellow.

Most often these are low plants resistant to diseases and temperature extremes. Therefore, they are grown for rock gardens and the creation of natural landscapes.

13. Species daffodils

This group includes wild growing daffodils ... As a rule, they do not grow higher than 30 cm, the shape and color of the flower are close to the classic ones.

You can use agricultural techniques for growing daffodils in the open field and forcing methods.

These bright, joyful heralds of spring bloom among the grass on lawns, around waterways, enliven the space under hedges or lend austerity to a formal border.

If tulips are considered to be a symbol of Holland, then more moisture-loving daffodils are the absolute favorites of the British. Golden buds of daffodils among the fresh greenery of narrow long leaves can be considered symbols of spring. Having chosen the right varieties, in central Russia you can admire daffodils from early to mid-April to early June. Each bulb produces one or more peduncles topped with one or more flowers. The flowers are from 2.5 to 10 cm in diameter, with a central crown surrounded by six tepals ("petals"), which can be narrow, convoluted or wide, flat. The color of the perianth varies from greenish and white to different shades yellow, orange-red or pink colors. Two-colored daffodils are often found, and in some varieties, the crown is colored paler than the petals.

Although most daffodils reach 40-60 cm in height, there are also lower varieties and dwarf forms, not exceeding 10-20 cm. Basal leaves are more or less belt-like, they appear simultaneously with flowers. After the flowers wither, the leaves begin to elongate; they should not be removed for at least six weeks after flowering (it is best to wait until they begin to die off themselves). This will allow a mature bulb to form for next year's growth. Most daffodils are good at planting massively under trees or bushes; smaller varieties look good on the front of curbs or in rock gardens. The most powerful varieties can naturalize among the lawn.

With the exception of true tacetes and some jonquil daffodils, most are fairly cold-hardy plants. Some, especially small varieties, are suitable for winter forcing in pots or containers.

Tubular daffodils

The crown is in the form of a long tube, which is equal in length or exceeds the length of the tepals. As a rule, one flower is formed on the peduncle. Good winter hardiness. Height - 40-60 cm.

"Arctic Gold"

Beautiful yellow flowers; the edges of the crown are wavy, the tepals overlap with their edges.

"Biscayne «

Variety with yellow flowers.

"Biscayne"

"Bravoure"

A tall variety with white petals and a yellow tube.

Dutch Master

Time-tested golden-yellow hybrid with wide, smooth "petals".

"Carlton"

Strong, profusely flowering plant with creamy yellow flowers and a crown with slightly corrugated edges.

"Daydream"

The variety belongs to "reverse" daffodils, in which the crown is lighter than the perianth. The "petals" are yellow. The crown is lemon yellow at the beginning of flowering, but after a few days it turns white.

"Feeling Lucky"

An amazing hybrid with a bright red crown and yellow petals.

"Feeling Lucky"

"Golden Aura"

Beautiful golden yellow flowers.

"Golden Aura"

"Ice Follies"

The flowers are a vigorous plant with creamy white "petals" surrounding a wide-opening yellow crown that gradually fades to cream.

"Ice Follies"

"Ipi Tombi"

A hybrid with large flowers with yellow petals and a fringed orange crown.

Irish Minstrel

Loch Owskeich

The flowers are large, with yellow petals and an orange crown.

Loch Owskeich

"Passionale"

Wide pointed white "petals" and a long pale pink crown. The pink color intensifies as it blooms.

"Passionale"

"Pinza"

Daffodils with yellow petals and orange-red crown.

"Pinza"

"Rainbow"

Pure white "petals" and crown with a pink edge.

"Rainbow"

"Saint Keverne"

Flowers are golden yellow; these daffodils are resistant to root rot.

"Saint Keverne"

"Salome"

Pure white petals and a peachy pink crown that intensifies over time.

"Vulcan"

The "petals" are bright yellow, the crown is orange.

"Vulcan"

Large-crowned daffodils

The most popular class of daffodils, which includes the most varieties. The shape of the crown can be different, but its length should be at least one third of the length of the "petals", at the same time, the crown should not exceed the length of the perianth. Usually, one flower is located on the peduncles. Good winter hardiness. Height-40-60 cm.

Read also:

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Empress of Ireland

Variety with extremely large white flowers.

Empress of Ireland

"Golden Rapture"

Large golden yellow flowers of a beautiful shape.

"Golden Rapture"

"Kingscourt"

Excellent resistant variety with rich yellow flowers.

"Kingscourt"

"Little Beauty"

A magnificent miniature plant only 15 cm tall with creamy "petals" surrounding a pale yellow tube.

"Little Beauty"

"Little Gem"

An early blooming dwarf hybrid about 15 cm high with small yellow flowers.

"Little Gem"

Mount Hood

A powerful plant with large creamy white flowers.

Mount Hood

"Rijnveld's Early Sensation"

An extremely early blooming daffodil with large yellow flowers on peduncles about 30 cm high.

"Rijnveld's Early Sensation"

"Spellbinder"

The flowers, when they first bloom, are sulfur-yellow, but gradually fade, becoming creamy.

"Spellbinder"

"Ulster Prince"

Golden yellow flowers.

"Ulster Prince"

"W. P. Milner "

The flowers of the undersized variety are very light, creamy yellow, drooping, on peduncles 30 cm high. The variety takes root very well. Due to the origin, sometimes this daffodil is classified as a Cyclamen or even Botanical daffodil.

"Bantham"

The variety is up to 30 cm high, with bright yellow rounded flowers and a bright orange crown with reddish edges. Great aroma.

"Bantham"

Small-crowned daffodils

The varieties of this class are characterized by a short crown, which is no more than one third of the length of the tepals. The peduncle usually has one flower. Although there are relatively few varieties in this class, among them you can find exquisite aroma, the brightest colors and the most graceful flower shape. Small-crowned varieties are some of the most hardy daffodils. Height - 40-60 cm.

"Merlin"

Pure white petals and a yellow crown with a red edge.

"Merlin"

"Sabine Hay"

Golden petals and orange crown.

"Sabine Hay"

"Segovia"

A strong dwarf hybrid (20 cm in height) with white "petals" and a lemon-yellow crown. Sometimes this variety is referred to as Botanical Daffodils.

"Verona"

The flowers are white, in a dwarf hybrid.

"Verona"

"Xit"

The variety is 18 cm high. Tiny (4 cm) sparkling white flowers. This variety is somewhat more sensitive to frost than most others.

"Xit"

Terry daffodils

Terry flowers are considered to be flowers in which the number of perianth leaves exceeds the usual (for daffodils - 6). Terry can occur in several ways. For example, some of the stamens are turned into "petals", and then the crown will turn out to be terry. Another option is to increase the number of tepals. At the same time, in some varieties, a crown with stamens inside will remain in the center, while in others, the entire middle is occupied by “petals” and crown elements. The class is very heterogeneous in origin, so there can be one or several flowers on a peduncle. Winter hardiness varies. Height - 40-60 cm.

"Acropolis"

The flowers have broad "petals" of pure white, orange-red elements of the crown are visible in the center.

"Acropolis"

"Cheerfulness"

On the peduncle there are 1-3 small double fragrant flowers of cream and pale yellow flowers. Due to the fact that this variety was obtained by hybridization of Poetic and Tacet daffodils, it blooms later and has a slightly lower frost resistance.

"Cheerfulness"

"Double Fashion"

The flowers are large, beautiful, with light yellow tepals and contrasting corrugated elements of the crown of a rich orange color.

"Double Fashion"

"Pencrebar"

A dwarf hybrid, reaching only 18 cm in height, with 1-2 small yellow double flowers.

"Pencrebar"

"Rip van Winkle"

Old, easy to take root in gardens and at the same time very early flowering variety... Its height is about 30 cm, its flowers are double, greenish-yellow, with very thin "petals". In central Russia, the bulb often becomes smaller, and from this the variety stops blooming. This variety can be attributed with equal success to the Botanical Daffodils.

"Rip van Winkle"

Sir Winston Churchill

A multi-flowered variety with white “petals” and light yellow crown elements. Strong refined aroma.

Sir Winston Churchill

"Tahiti"

Strong peduncles with large “petals” of rich golden color and orange-red crown, divided into many segments. The variety is good for cutting.

"Telamonius Plenus" ("Van Sion")

A variety known since the 16th century. An early flowering, double yellow daffodil that is highly resistant to weather changes. Terry can be either only the crown or the whole flower.

"Unique"

Large rounded flowers with white tepals and yellow crown lobes.

"White Lion"

A powerful hybrid with pointed white petals and creamy yellow crown details.

"White Lion"

"Yellow Cheerfulness"

The yellow version of the "Cheerfulness" variety. Sometimes there is a "return" to the original white variety.

"Yellow Cheerfulness"

Three-stalked daffodils

This class includes varieties of daffodils created on the basis of N. triandrus (N. three-stalk). On the peduncle they usually have two or more drooping flowers with "petals" bent upwards. They resemble fuchsia in shape. Winter hardiness in the middle lane is quite satisfactory. This class of daffodils is still not widespread, but it is quite promising for creating gardens in a natural style. Bloom from the second half of May. Height - 40-60 cm.

"Arish Mell"

The variety has up to four white flowers.

"Arish Mell"

"Hawera"

The bulb produces several peduncles no more than 18 cm high with 3-5 small light yellow flowers. In the middle lane, the bulbs often become smaller, and the peduncles become lower from year to year, and the number of flowers is reduced to one. Interesting for alpine slides.

"Hawera"

"Ice Wings"

Variety with 2-3 medium-sized white flowers with a long crown.

"Ice Wings"

"Liberty Bells"

Beautifully shaped lemon-yellow flowers.

"Liberty Bells"

"Petrel"

On a 30-centimeter peduncle, there are 3-7 small drooping white flowers.

"Petrel"

Rippling Waters

The variety is distinguished by grayish foliage and 1-3 white flowers.

Rippling Waters

"Thalia"

The flowers of the most popular variety are stellate, pure white. The variety is very resistant in the middle lane.

"Thalia"

Cyclamen daffodils

The varieties of this group were obtained by hybridization of N. cyclamineus (N. cyclamen). Usually there is one flower per peduncle. The flower has a short peduncle, it sits at an acute angle to the peduncle, and its "petals" are strongly bent back, which gives it some resemblance to a cyclamen flower. Many of these varieties and hybrids bloom very early. They can be placed under bushes or among lawn grasses. Differ early flowering... Winter hardiness depends on the variety. Height - 30-60 cm.

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"Charity May"

"Charity May"

"Dove Wings"

"Dove Wings"

"February Gold"

"February Gold"

"February Silver"

"February Silver"

Foundling

Foundling

Jack Snipe

Jack Snipe

"Jenny"

Flowers with pointed creamy white "petals" and an expanding lemon crown, which gradually brightens as it blooms. The varieties of this group were obtained by hybridization of N. cyclamineus (N. cyclamen). Usually there is one flower per peduncle. The flower has a short peduncle, it sits at an acute angle to the peduncle, and its "petals" are strongly bent back, which gives it some resemblance to a cyclamen flower. Many of these varieties and hybrids bloom very early. They can be placed under bushes or among lawn grasses. They are distinguished by early flowering. Winter hardiness depends on the variety. Height - 30-60 cm.

"Charity May"

An early flowering variety with light yellow flowers.

"Charity May"

"Dove Wings"

Variety with white "petals" surrounding a lemon-yellow crown.

"Dove Wings"

"February Gold"

An early flowering variety with rich yellow flowers. One of the most powerful varieties of this group, giving the earliest cut of daffodils in central Russia.

"February Gold"

"February Silver"

Very long-lasting large flowers with almost flat white "petals" surrounding a yellow crown.

"February Silver"

Foundling

White petals and salmon pink crown.

Foundling

Jack Snipe

White petals and a short yellow crown. The variety perfectly adapts to new conditions. It has proven itself well in central Russia. It multiplies rapidly.

Jack Snipe

"Jenny"

Flowers with pointed creamy white "petals" and an expanding lemon crown, which gradually brightens as it blooms, becoming creamy. Fairly hardy variety.

"Jetfire"

A strong hybrid with yellow flowers, the crowns of which turn bright orange over time. Winter hardiness is high.

"Jetfire"

"Little Witch"

The variety is not higher than 30 cm; flowers are small, golden yellow. These daffodils look good in the middle of the lawn.

"Little Witch"

"Peeping Tom"

Flowers with a length, expanding golden-yellow crown and bent "petals".

"Peeping Tom"

"Tgena"

White "petals" and lemon-yellow crown bending back.

"Tgena"

Jonquil daffodils

These pets of the 19th century are now grown less and less.

At the heart of all varieties:

N. jonquilla (N. jonquil, or N. sitnikovidny)

The leaves are very narrow, rounded rather than flat, bright green in color. The foliage vaguely resembles a clump of uncus, which is where the name of the species comes from. On one peduncle, 1-3 very fragrant flowers are formed. The "petals" are widely diverging, but not bent back.

The daffodils of this group require bright sunshine.

They bloom in the second half of May, when most of the varieties of the previous classes have already bloomed. Winter hardiness varies, but there are varieties that are resistant in the middle lane. Height-30-40 cm.

"Bell Song"

The variety has up to three white flowers with small pink crowns. Winter hardiness is good, but the bulbs in the middle lane are often shallow, which is why the variety turns into a dwarf one.

"Bell Song"

"Pipit"

The flowers are drooping, “reverse”, 1-2 per peduncle, with lemon-yellow “petals” and a lighter crown - it turns white at the end of flowering. Winter-hardy variety.

"Quail"

2-3 fragrant yellow flowers with long crowns. In severe winters it freezes out.

"Quail"

"Sun Disc"

The cultivar produces tiny, single yellow flowers, the "petals" of which gradually fade to a creamy color. Peduncles about 20 cm high. In the middle zone, the bulbs become smaller from year to year.

Sundial

An early variety with 1-2 small yellow flowers on a 20 cm peduncle.

Sundial

"Suzy"

1-4 dark yellow flowers with orange crowns. Good winter hardiness.

"Suzy"

"Sweetness"

Variety with small, single golden, very fragrant flowers.

"Sweetness"

"Trevithian"

Variety with light lemon-yellow flowers. In some years it freezes out.

"Trevithian"

Tacetes and their hybrids

The ancestor of this class is N. tazetta. Tacet and related species are widespread in the warm regions of the Mediterranean, therefore varieties based on it are quite thermophilic. When grown in the Russian climate, one should distinguish between tacetes proper, which do not overwinter in the middle lane, and hybrids of tacetes with poetic narcissus (N. poctkus) - poet daffodils with good frost resistance. Each strong peduncle has from 3 to 40 flowers (depending on the variety). Flowers with a pleasant strong scent, reminiscent of the scent of jasmine. They bloom very late compared to other varieties. The leaves are wide, gray-green. Height-40 cm.

"Canaliculatus"

Grayish leaves and up to seven tiny pure white flowers with yellow crowns on each flower stalk, 25 cm in height. In central Russia, it blooms only in the first year after planting. In subsequent years, the bulbs survive but do not bloom. Sometimes this daffodil is classified as Botanical.

"Erlicher"

Terry variety of tazetas. It is also very fragrant, but does not hibernate in the climate of the middle zone. Nevertheless, it can often be found on sale. It is advisable to dig up the bulbs in early September, dry them and store them in a frost-free, cool room, and plant them again in open ground in May. This technique will extend the flowering of daffodils until mid-June. Sometimes this variety is referred to as terry daffodils.

"Geranium"

A powerful hybrid with 3-4 pure white wide flowers and bright orange crowns. A fairly reliable and winter-hardy variety.

"Geranium"

"Minnow"

2-4 tiny creamy-yellow flowers on a peduncle about 25 cm high. Hibernates, but flowering in the middle lane is irregular. It is sometimes referred to as a Botanical Daffodil.

"Minnow"

"Paper White" (syn. N. papyraceus)

A well-known early variety of this group of daffodils, usually used for winter forcing. Each peduncle has up to 10 small pure white flowers with a strong aroma. In the middle lane, it does not winter even under cover.

Narcissus, a flower well known to growers. The beauty and trepidation of this flower was praised not only by the poets of the East. In nature, it grows in the Mediterranean countries.

In science, the narcissus is known as Narcissus Poeticus, which translated from Greek means "intoxicate" and "poetic." The first word is associated with the natural poisonous properties of the plant. The second word complements his connection with the poetic praise of his charm.

Description, peculiarities

Narcissus is a versatile plant in the garden, on summer cottage, in the park. Numerous varieties of daffodils have different flowering times, using this characteristic it is possible to create continuously flowering zones.

Daffodils are perennial plants belonging to the genus of monocotyledons of the Amaryllis family. Plant structure:

• The underground part is represented by a bulb shaped like a ball or an oval, depending on the variety, with a lobe of annual roots.
• Terrestrial part with leaves extending from the neck of the bulb and a stem, smooth, devoid of leaves, which may end in one flower or an inflorescence of several flowers, collected in the shape of an umbrella. The number of leaves ranges from 2 to 6.
• At the end of flowering, in all varieties of daffodil, the flower and stem are removed, leaving the leaves until they naturally die off. This rule should be adhered to, since during this period, the accumulation process takes place in the bulb nutrients from the leaves.

Important. Narcissus bulbs have two renewal buds at different stages of development, which ensures continuous growth.

• The bulbs of all varieties of daffodils are covered with several rows of scales that have a fleshy structure. They store nutrients and contain a slimy mass.
• As it grows, the bulb accumulates scales that live on this underground daffodil bud for up to four years. Over time, the scales of the outer row die off, forming a protective shell of the bulb.
• Children are formed under the dense shell of the scales - planting material for the reproduction of daffodils. As they develop, they become independent plants. Separation of children is recommended only after their explicit separation.

Important. If the babies of the daffodil bulbs are not separated from the mother's bulb, then they will bloom with her, laying their flower arrows. Young bulbs form renewal buds within two years.

Varieties and types

In our gardens, there are a huge number of varieties of daffodil obtained by breeders from wild varieties and existing hybrids. At present, taking as a basis the shape and color of the perianth and crown lobes, all varieties of daffodils were united under the general name "hybrid daffodils" and divided them into 13 groups: 12 groups represent garden hybrids, and the 13th group includes all types and forms of flowers growing in nature.

Varieties and types in the modern classification:

1. Tubular - characterized by one flower per peduncle, the tube is equal to or slightly longer than the perianth. They have a white, yellow or bicolor color of the perianth and tubes. They are early flowering.

2. Large-crowned - early flowering varieties with single flowers, the crown is smaller than the perianth and is about ½ of its length. The variety is the richest in color combination. It has a wide variety of flowers that have a crown edge in the form of a wave, graceful corrugation or an airy bend, which gives the flower a resemblance to lace.

3. Small-crowned - have a small crown, which is only 1/3 of the perianth height. Peduncle with one flower. The flowering period is later than that of daffodils of groups 1 and 2.

4. Terry varieties of daffodils, have double perianths and crowns of varieties of split-crown daffodils. They can be one color or combine two different colors. They have peduncles that can end with one or more flowers.

5. Triandrus - early blooming daffodils. They have several flowers on the peduncle, with the perianth lobes slightly bent back. Hanging flowers are white, yellow.

6. Cyclamenous varieties - early flowering, with one flower on a short peduncle growing under acute angle to him. The perianth petals are strongly curved in the opposite direction from the crown. The peduncle is shortened, the crown has an elongated, very narrow shape.

7. Jonquilliaceae are late blooming, with several flowers on a high peduncle. Their number ranges from 5 to 8. Perianth petals, horizontally spread, or slightly bent back. The crown has a bowl-shaped shape, slightly exceeding its length. The flowers have a slight odor.

8. Daffodil varieties have several flowers on a dense, thickened peduncle. Three or more rounded flowers. The plant has a strong specific aroma. The color of the flowers is white, yellow or cream.

9. Poetic variety - late flowering daffodils with a very large single flower on a peduncle. The perianth has snow-white lobes, the flower crown is flat in the form of a disc, has a green or yellow center, bordered by a red edge. The flower exudes a light aroma.

10. Daffodils N. bulbocodium(Bulbocodium) - varieties with one flower on a peduncle no more than 15 cm high. Perianth segments are not developed, almost absent, the crown is bell-shaped, rather large. They do not tolerate the winter well, they need shelter.

11. Split-crowned daffodils are varieties with one flower at the top of the peduncle. The crown is divided almost in half, tightly attached to the perianth. The color palette is very diverse.

12. Other hybrids of daffodils of different varieties, not suitable for any of the groups.

13. Daffodils of wild species, their forms and hybrids.

Planting material

As a planting material for growing daffodils, the following can be used:

1. Corm purchased in the store or grown on the site;

In any case, a careful examination and rejection of low-quality bulbs are carried out.

Selected bulbs are sprayed with a fungicide solution or kept in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. Dry the bulbs well before planting.

2. Bulb plots;

Strong, healthy, large enough bulbs are selected for division. The prepared planting bud is divided into four parts. A sharp, clean knife is used for this procedure. It is necessary that each lobe has a part of the bottom and an element of the top. It is recommended to treat the resulting shares first with an antiseptic, and then keep them in a growth stimulant solution. Lobules are planted in open ground after 1-1.5 months. When planting in the autumn, the garden bed is protected by a shelter.

3. Seeds.

The seed method involves the use of freshly harvested seeds, which are still covered with juice. Seeds of daffodil varieties are sown in a container, where they are kept for two years. The planting depth in the ground should be approximately 3-4 diameters of the seed. This is about 1-1.5 cm. After planting in open ground, flowering will come only after three years. Reproduction of daffodil varieties in this way does not guarantee the reproduction of their varietal properties. Planting with seeds is used in breeding for the reproduction of species varieties of daffodils.

Agricultural technology of cultivation

To provide daffodils long flowering, to reduce the risk of diseases, you should pay attention to some of the subtleties of agricultural technology when growing them:

• The landing site should be well lit, easily warmed up by the sun during the day, protected from strong winds;
• The site should be flat, with a slight slope, providing a good drainage of excess moisture;
• The soil on the site should be loose, pre-fertilized from the calculation of the growth of daffodils in one place for at least 5-6 years. It is preferable to set aside a site with light loamy or sandy loam soil for a daffodil bed;
• Using a crop rotation, you should choose a place for daffodils where potatoes, various varieties of cabbage, carrots, beets, peas, beans used to grow;
• The best time to plant daffodils is late summer. The planting of the bulbs should be completed with the onset of the cold October days;
• Plant the bulbs at a distance of approximately 20 cm from each other to enable the full development of the daughter bulbs;

• The plot with planted bulbs for the winter should be covered with mulch from peat, leafy earth, and straw.

Important. Florists and breeders have found that daffodil bulbs take root within three weeks. Spring planting do not have time to go through the full vegetation process, because of this, daffodils do not bloom during the planting season.

Planting daffodils are fed in the first spring days, before the snow melts. Fertilizers containing nitrogen are scattered over the melted snow, which allows nutrients to gradually flow to the roots of the plant, stimulating their growth.

Z foliar dressing, which consists in spraying seedlings with solutions of microelements together with macronutrients, has an initial effect.

The rules for caring for planting daffodils include timely watering. However, plants do not like too much moisture accumulation, this can cause rotting of the bulb neck.

Important. During the flowering period, the plantings of daffodils are carefully examined, timely removing the affected plants, as well as wilted inflorescences. The plantings are fertilized by applying fertilizers once every two weeks throughout the growing season.

Diseases and pests

Daffodils can be affected by a number of viral and fungal diseases characteristic of the order of bulbous plants. Most often, the defeat of the bulbs by harmful bacteria and microorganisms occurs if the basic procedures for digging, storing and planting the bulbs are not followed, and the disinfection of the planting material is neglected.

The choice of a favorite variety, adherence to simple but mandatory rules of agricultural technology, will allow you to get luxurious flower beds of daffodils in combination with other types of flowers and plants.

Almost everyone is engaged in planting and caring for daffodils. personal plot... These plants appeared in Russia even earlier than tulips and hyacinths, and gradually the cultivation of this culture acquired a cult scale. Everyone knows what a daffodil flower looks like, but it will not be superfluous for novice plant breeders to familiarize themselves with the technology of forcing and the classification of these plants.

Description of daffodil: what the stems and bulbs look like, the structure of the flower

The daffodil plant belongs to the amaryllis family. In natural conditions, it grows in the Mediterranean, Asia and southern Europe. The genus has about 60 species and thousands of hybrids and varieties bred by breeders.

It is worth starting a description of the daffodil flower with the fact that it is a perennial bulbous plant with basal linear leaves, a peduncle, the length of which can vary from 8 to 80 cm.

As you can see in the photo, the daffodil bulb has a round or ovoid shape, covered with a shell of scales:

Its structure is characterized by a distinctive feature: the bulb has two renewal buds, which are at different stages of development.

The daffodil blooms in white, yellow, orange, red and shades of red and orange. In the structure of the flower of the daffodil, the crown and tepals are distinguished. Flowers can be split-crown and double. At the same time, the shape of the flower is amazing: six perianth lobes, and in the middle there is an outgrowth - long or not very. It is called a tube or crown. The diameter of a white, yellow or cream flower is from 2 to 10 cm, the crown is from 1 to 6 cm, the height of the crown is from 0.5 to 6 cm. The edge of the crown is smooth or wavy. Tones - white, yellow, orange, pink, red. A border of a different color may be located along the edge of the crown. During flowering, daffodils have from one to seven flowers on the stem, depending on the variety.

When describing the daffodil plant, it is worth noting that flowers with a pink and orange crown retain their color better if they are not in bright sunlight.

The root system of daffodils is fibrous and formed from annually renewing adventitious filamentous roots, which are located in the lower outer part of the bottom. They are laid during the summer dormancy and appear on the bulb in the fall. In addition to the usual roots, daffodils also have retractable roots, which contribute to the deepening of the bulb into the soil. They appear in small and medium-sized bulbs, as well as in shallow (up to 10 cm) planting. The lifespan of the roots is 11-12 months, then they gradually die off. In August, new roots begin to grow, and it is in the fall that they grow most intensively. In years with excess moisture, the dying off of old roots is delayed. With long-term storage of bulbs under conditions high humidity regrowth of roots begins already in the storage. This, of course, is very bad, as the roots can break off during sorting and planting. Subsequently, they are renewed due to the stock of bulbs, but such plants develop poorly. The roots of a daffodil die off by the middle of summer.

Leaves of daffodils are linear, erect, green or gray, collected in basal bunches. During the growing season, from 3 to 5 assimilating leaves develop. By the time of flowering, the leaf blades reach their maximum size.

From the following description, you will learn what the stem of a daffodil, bract leaf, peduncle and bulb looks like.

The flower stem is leafless, 10 to 50 cm in height and more, smooth, round or slightly flattened, sometimes ribbed with two keels on the sides.

The bracts develops on internodes, at the base of the peduncle, and consists of two fused leaves, which form a tube that protects the flower from damage during development. As the bud grows, the bracts breaks apart, turning into a membranous wing that covers the peduncle and part of the ovary.

The peduncle is a thinner extension of the stem and has different lengths in different varieties. The pedicel grows unevenly and therefore becomes curved. The degree of its curvature is different, in connection with which the flowers are arranged vertically or at different angles of inclination.

The daffodil bulb has 10–12 storing scales of two ages: this year and last year. One or two daughter bulbs are laid inside the mother bulb. Plant growth occurs due to nutrients from the external storage scales, after flowering they are deposited in the storage scales of the current year (internal). The advancement of the daughter bulbs embedded in the bulb to the periphery occurs over several years. Thus, the bulb is in constant development.

That is why daffodil bulbs can be left to winter in the soil, digging them up every 5-6 years. In old gardens it is possible even once every 10 years. The signal that the bulbs need to be replanted is poor flowering, chopping of flowers, an outbreak of diseases, and crowding of bulbs with each other. Usually, the transplant is done in early August, when the daffodil leaves turn yellow. If the bulb has already begun to form new roots, the bulbs must be carefully dug out so as not to damage the new roots.

Flowers of daffodils for bouquets are cut off in the bud phase at the moment when the cover leaf bursts and the bud becomes colored.

Since mucus is secreted from the cut, containing toxic substances, daffodils should not be placed in a vase with other flowers, which may prematurely fade from this, since the sticky juice will clog the vessels on their sections and the access of water will stop. The stems of daffodils should be immersed in water to a depth of no more than 6-7 cm. The beginning and duration of flowering of daffodils depends on the temperature of the soil and air. The optimum air temperature is 15 ° C, and the soil temperature is 10–12 ° C (this is April, May).

History and properties of daffodils

The history of daffodils in Russia began earlier than the history of tulips and hyacinths. And this flower became popular in late XIX century, when breeders of Holland, England, USA, Japan began to display new varieties.

The graceful forms of the daffodil turned the flower into a real symbol of the awakening of nature. The flower can be called a romantic plant. Its petals are delicate and the aroma is simply delicious. Many growers like to grow unpretentious daffodils.

Daffodils are loved not only in Russia. For example, the Chinese consider it a traditional New Year's plant. The ancient Romans once had a tradition to greet victorious warriors with bouquets of daffodils. The English especially like daffodils. In this country, the daffodil is even more popular than the beautiful rose. Once upon a time in Germany it was customary to bring a pot of daffodil after a wedding to the house of a newly-made husband. After that, the young wife carefully looked after the plant, which, according to legend, brought good luck and prosperity to the house of the young couple.

The properties of the narcissus have been known to folk medicine for a long time. The ancient Greeks made an aromatic oil from a wonderful flower, which they used in the treatment of male infertility, as well as to stimulate attraction. In the East, the leaves of this plant were used in the treatment of hemorrhoids and to relieve headaches. The leaves are believed to promote early healing of wounds and abrasions.

The leaves and bulbs of the plant contain a substance that is used in modern folk medicine to treat pneumonia, bronchitis and as an expectorant. Dermatologists claim that narcissus leaves can be used as an adjuvant in the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases.

The advantage of daffodils over many bulbs is that they are not eaten by mice, since there are poisonous substances in the bulbs and leaves of daffodils. Therefore, daffodils can serve as a "shield" for tulips planted nearby, small-bulb ephemeroids, lilies and other bulbs.

Currently, daffodils are widely used in landscaping flower beds, lawns, borders, they are planted in groups between shrubs, of which they make up original compositions with other spring flowers. In addition, daffodils provide excellent cutting material.

Narcissus plant: codes and classification

Daffodils are divided by scientists into 13 groups. And only one of these groups is those daffodils that are found wild in nature. The rest of the groups of daffodils are the work of human hands: they are obtained by crossing.

If you buy daffodil bulbs from a catalog, you need to learn how to read the daffodil code - it is the same for the whole world.

Daffodil flower coloring codes:

• g - green (green);
• o - orange (orange);
• p-pink (pink);
• r - red (red);
• w - white (white);
• y - yellow (yellow).

If there are many colors and shades in the daffodil coloration, the code can contain up to 6 characters. The first describe the color of the petal, mentally divided into three zones: from the tip to the center. The second three are the coloring of the crown, also divided into three zones, but already from the center to the edge of the crown.

Narcissus Blossom Time Codes:

• 1 - very early;
• 2 - early;
• 3 - early middle;
• 4 - medium;
• 5 - medium late;
• 6 - late.

Peduncle height codes:

• 1 - below 20 cm;
• 2 - from 20 to 40 cm;
• 3 - from 40 to 50 cm;
• 4 - above 50 cm.

See how it looks common code using the example of one of the varieties of daffodil, namely La Belle: 2-Y ‑ GYO, 3, 3. This means that the variety belongs to the second group (2), that the flowers have yellow petals (Y), that the crown is from the center to paradise, the color is green-yellow-orange (GYO), the flowering time of the variety is early-middle (3), and the height of the peduncle (3) is from 40 to 50 cm.

International classification of daffodils:

1. Tubular

They bloom early. These classic daffodils have one large flower on a strong peduncle. The tube is equal to or longer than the perianth lobes. Coloring is white, yellow, one- or two-colored (perianth and tube of different colors). Good for both open field and forcing.

2. Large-crowned

One flower per peduncle. The flower crown is shorter than the perianth lobes, but is more than 1/3 of their length. That is, the crown is not very long. In this group, the most diverse combination of colors of the crown and perianth lobes. The perianth is white, yellow, cream. The crown is white, cream, yellow, orange, orange-red, pink. Many varieties with border different widths orange, pink or red, the edge of the crown can be wavy, corrugated, folded back, similar to airy lace. Insanely beautiful flower.

3. Small-crowned

The crown length of these daffodils is small - less than 1/3 of the length of the perianth lobe. There is one large flower on the peduncle. The perianth is white, cream or yellow. The crown is often bordered, yellow-orange, apricot, pink, red, greenish. They bloom later than varieties from the first and second groups.

4. Terry

These daffodils disprove our common beliefs about daffodils! On the peduncle there is one or more flowers, with a double perianth or double crown, or both the crown and the perianth are double. One- or two-color: white, yellow with red, orange, pink tones... Terry daffodils have been known for more than a hundred years, but they were singled out as a separate group not so long ago, because terry varieties there were very few. These beauties have a drawback - the peduncles droop when wet, therefore, after rain or abundant watering, the peduncles tend to the ground and can break. It is better to tie terry cloth to the supports.

5. Triandrus

On one low peduncle there can be 2–6 small hanging flowers, the petals of which are slightly pulled back. Flower tones are white, yellow, golden. The crown is small, in the form of a cup.

6. Cyclameniform

Blooms early. On a low (15–20 cm) peduncle, there is one graceful flower, similar to a cyclamen flower. The perianth lobes are very strongly bent back, the flower is located at an acute angle to the peduncle, with a short peduncle, the crown is narrow, long. White, yellow perianth, white, yellow, orange crown.

7. Jonquiliform

Bloom late. There are several flowers on the peduncle, the perianth lobes are open or bent back, the crown is small, in the shape of a bowl. Usually its width is greater than its length. The flowers are fragrant, the leaves are narrow. The color is yellow, white.

8. Tacetate

They bloom late, need shelter for the winter. On a strong peduncle there are several - more than three - flowers. Perianth lobes are open, not thrown back, flowers are usually fragrant, with a specific aroma. The petals are rounded, with a folded surface. The crowns are small. The leaves are wide. The color is white, cream, yellow. Good for forcing.

9. Poetic or real

This name was given to fragrant varieties of daffodil with a large flat single flower and a very small flat crown. Poetic daffodils bloom late, they can not be transplanted for a long time, up to 6 years. The perianth segments are usually white, the crown is folded, disc-shaped, usually with a green or yellow center and a red border along the edge (sometimes one-color). They can grow not only in a sunny place, but also in partial shade.

10. N. Bulbocodium hybrids

On a low (10-15 cm) peduncle there is one flower, the perianth lobes are very small, almost undeveloped, a bell-shaped crown. These daffodils are also called daffodils - "crinolines". They can hibernate well in middle latitudes, but in cold winters it is better to shelter them. They are also good in the ground. And for distillation.

11. Split-crown Split Corona

This daffodil looks like an orchid. One flower on the peduncle. The crown is heavily dissected, more than half. The tones of the crown are very different: white, yellow, red, pink, orange. A very beautiful flower.

12. Wild species

Natural species and their cultural forms.

Varieties of daffodils: photos, names and descriptions of plants

Tubular daffodils are wonderful Spellbinder with a white crown and yellow petals, large-crowned Precocious, Oregon Snow, Manon Lescaut, Rosy Sunrise, Berlin- with a highly corrugated bright crown. Of the small-crowned ones, you can recommend graceful Audubon and Lancaster, from terry - amazing Obdam, Modern Art, Delnashaugh, My Story.

You won't regret choosing split crown daffodils - amazing Chanterelle, Pink Wonder, SunnySide Up or aromatic triandrus Thalia, cyclamen-like Wisley, Cotinga, Dazzling Avalanche.

When buying daffodil bulbs, you can see the Top size mark on the packaging. This means that the package contains very high quality planting material, which consists of 2-3 bulbs that have grown together. Such daffodils will bloom beautifully right away in the first year.

Here you can see a photo of the varieties of daffodils, the names of which are given above:

from the group of poetic - Actea, Glory of Liss, Dante(white with a yellow crown);

tacettoid - Aspasia(white with a yellow crown), Geranium(white with orange crown),

Canary Bird(light yellow with an orange-yellow crown), Laurent Coster(white with an orange-yellow crown),

Red Guard(orange-yellow with orange-red crown), Jellyfish(white with orange-red crown),

Elvira(white with a yellow crown and orange border); jonquilla - Campernelli(bright yellow);

tubular - Glory of Noordwijk(yellow), Godolphin(dark yellow),

Daisy Shafer(white with yellow tube), Rembrandt-Emperor(white with yellow tube).

Look at the photos of the varieties of daffodils that are very popular with gardeners:

Vegetative propagation of daffodils and how to store bulbs

Varietal daffodils reproduce only vegetatively. The seed method is used when developing new varieties. Vegetative reproduction of daffodils is based on the separation from the multi-peaked bulb of the daughter bulbs, which already have their bottoms and only slightly, by one side, connected with the mother. When separating children, so as not to injure the mother's bulb once again, only those of them that are easily broken off are alienated. If the daughter bulbs do not completely separate with this method of reproduction of daffodils, you can cut them off with part of the common bottom. The reproductive ability of daffodils is not a constant value, depending on many factors, including the biological characteristics of the variety, the meteorological characteristics of the season, the storage conditions of the bulbs, as well as agricultural technology. Many modern varieties have a coefficient vegetative propagation marketable bulbs does not exceed 2.0-2.6, which is clearly not enough. It can be increased by shallow cuts of the bottom. For the reproduction of daffodils, the prepared bulbs are laid out in a warm, ventilated room with a temperature of 18-20 degrees so that they do not touch each other. After 1.5-2 months, up to 10 or more small bulbs are formed on the wounded surface. With good care, they will bloom in 3 years.

The method of reproduction of daffodils is quite productive by mechanically dividing large bulbs into parts and growing babies that are formed in the sinuses of storing scales on the bottom.

You can propagate daffodils with paired scales. For this, large bulbs (4-6 cm) are selected, dug out a little earlier than usual. Within 7-10 days they are dried at a temperature of 19-20 degrees. Then it is cleaned of roots, covering scales and disinfected in 0.2% solution of benlate, basezol or benomyl for 30 minutes. The disinfected bulbs are cut vertically into 8 parts (segments), after removing the upper part of the bulb. Each segment, in turn, is divided into paired scales with a common piece of the bottom. The optimum is paired scales, the mass of which exceeds 1 g.

How to store daffodil bulbs to ensure good germination? The prepared scales are disinfected in the same solution as the bulbs, poured into plastic bags, pre-mixed with wet perlite or peat, tightly tied and stored at a temperature of 18-20 degrees. With proper storage of daffodil bulbs, after 12-16 weeks, bulbs form between the scales at the bottom and near the base of the scales. In October-November, they are ready to plant. They are separated from the scales, etched in 0.2% benlate solution for 20 minutes and planted in boxes filled with a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio (3: 1). In winter, boxes with bulbs are kept in a cool place with a temperature of 5-10 degrees. In the second year of cultivation, the bulbs increase in size, and their mass reaches 12-20 g. They are grown in open ground conditions.

Forcing daffodil bulbs at home

For forcing daffodils at home, it is best to take early or medium bulbs early varieties with white or bright colors.

Bulbs of the following varieties are used for forcing daffodils:

Narcissus poetic, or real (Narcisus poeticus L.). Homeland - Central and Southern Europe. Differs in linear leaves, the flower arrow is always one-color. The flower is pure white, fragrant, the crown is red, wavy at the edges. The bulb is large.

Tacett (N. Tazetta L.). Found in Southern Europe, North Africa, Asia Minor, China, Japan. With linear leaves, multicolored (4-20 flowers) flower arrow. Available in forms with a white flower and a yellow crown, yellow flower and a white crown, simple and terry. The bulb is large.

Jonquilli (N. Jonquilla L.). From Southwest Europe, Northwest Africa. The leaves are cylindrical, on the flower arrow 2-6 strongly fragrant, bright yellow, with a serrated crown of flowers. The bulb is small. Well-developed bulbs in late August or early September are planted (poetic and tacetto-like - 3 each, jonquilla-like - 6-8 each) in pots with a diameter of 14 cm with compost soil and river sand, completely immersed in the soil, and leaving only a long neck above the surface. Then the pots are transferred to a frost-free room with a low temperature, watered, closely installed next to each other, covered with earth with a layer of 10 cm.

Daffodil bulbs differ from hyacinth and tulip bulbs in that there are both single-peaked and multi-peaked bulbs among them, so you need to stock up on a sufficient number of single-peaked bulbs. How to do it? If you dig up some of the daffodils every year, and not once every 5-6 years, as I and my friends do, then the single-peaked bulbs will be enough for distillation. You just need to not get carried away and not dig up all the daffodils every year - with an annual dig, they begin to multiply worse. Sometimes I use it. For forcing and bimodal bulbs.

The technology of forcing daffodils consists of several stages. For plants that are intended for reproduction, the leaves are removed at the end of July, without waiting for the aerial part to fade. Then the bulbs are sorted and selected from the single-peaked ones, the most attractive and largest ones, about 4 cm in diameter. They are stored in a barn or in a basement at a temperature of about 17 ° C until early October. As soon as the roots appear, it is time to plant the daffodils. Plant the bulbs in pots. Can be planted in any container (at least 12 cm high) with drainage holes.

Usually such a substrate is used for planting: ordinary soil from the garden in half with sawdust. Some gardeners only use sawdust and daffodils are perfectly driven out.

Fill the pots with substrate 2/3 of their height, and then plant 5 bulbs in each pot. The tops of the bulbs should be slightly above the edge of the pot. The substrate is poured into the pots, watered and buried in the area. The planting is covered with sand or earth - it is possible with peat - with a layer of 20 cm. With the onset of cold weather, they are covered with leaves, spruce branches or peat - a layer is also about 20 cm, roofing material is placed on top.

You can put the pots in any cool place on the street, as long as it is not flooded with water. Under a container with bulbs, then an ordinary film is useful for flooring. You can put spruce or pine branches on it, put containers with daffodils on the branches, and you can cover it with straw on top - mice that will certainly start in the straw, daffodils are not afraid, they are poisonous for mice. And you can cover it well with spruce or pine branches.

The bulbs need two and a half to three months to take root. In mid-January, the pots are dug up and placed for one or two days in a cool room (in the basement, on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator) at a temperature of 10 ° C, wrapping the pots with black paper. Two days later, the daffodils are watered. Further, they will be exposed to light at temperatures no higher than 12-15 ° C, for example, in a glazed loggia. At higher temperatures, the stems of daffodils are very lengthened, you need to put props. And the flowers will be small. A month after the pots are brought out into the light, the daffodils should bloom.

It has been noticed that if daffodils are driven out after January, they do not even have to be kept in the light, and they will bloom so beautifully.

Daffodils do not need feeding during distillation, but they should be watered often. It is desirable that the leaves do not get wet.

Very early daffodils can be driven out earlier. With a later forcing, the forcing time decreases, but the plants can hit hard in growth, then they will need props for them.

After forcing, daffodil bulbs are planted in the garden in May. They do not produce leaves this year. For re-distillation, they are grown for three or four years to the required size, digging out the bulbs every year.

Growing daffodils outdoors: planting bulbs and caring for flowers (with photo and video)

Before planting daffodils in open ground, it is recommended to treat the bulbs with a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate or the Hom fungicide (40 g per 5 l of water), this is more effective.

The planting depth of the bulbs depends on the size of the bulbs and ranges from 12 to 20 cm, sometimes up to 25 cm for the largest bulbs.

The average planting depth is 15 cm, on heavy soils - 12, on light - 17, bulbs for children - 10 cm from the bottom. When planting daffodils in open ground, for ease of care, a distance of 10–12 cm should be observed between the bulbs in a row. With such a dense planting, the bulbs are larger, with rare ones, they form more children.

After planting daffodil bulbs, the soil is mulched with peat or humus with a layer of 3-4 cm. When the soil is frozen by 4-5 cm, the daffodils are additionally covered with foliage with a layer of 20 cm. When growing and caring for daffodils, do not forget that plants freeze more often on light dry soils, than heavy and wet.

The video "Planting daffodils" shows how to place the bulbs in the garden:

In the spring, after the snow melts, the shelter is removed from the daffodils, and the mulching layer is left.

One of the conditions for growing daffodils is the right choice of site. Groundwater should be no higher than 50-60 cm, otherwise, in seasons with heavy rainfall, daffodils may die off the tips of the roots, which will lead to a deterioration in growth.

Daffodils are shade-tolerant, but in illuminated places the quality of their flowers and bulbs is much higher. When grown outdoors, daffodils adapt well to all local conditions. Plants can grow in a flower bed, under tree tops, on a lawn or lawn. Daffodils can grow without a transplant for 4–5 years. They should be transplanted when they grow strongly, forming large nests of bulbs.

Daffodils are undemanding to soil, they are grown on any garden land, but loamy soil with sufficient nutrition and a neutral reaction is most suitable.

To increase the nutrient content, it is necessary to make compost, humus. Daffodils do not tolerate manure, so it can only be applied under the previous culture. It is recommended to liming the soil a year before planting the bulbs: add 200 g of fluff lime or dolomite flour per 1 m2, and wood ash, which helps to reduce the acidity of the soil, is applied every year in spring when plants appear at the rate of 1 glass per 1 m2.

There are usually two top dressings. The first - during the budding period: 1 teaspoon of urea, potassium sulfate and superphosphate is diluted per 10 liters of water, consuming a solution of 5 liters per 1 m2. The second feeding is carried out during the beginning of flowering: 1 teaspoon of nitrophoska, "Humatakaliya" for garden flowers and "Intermag" for flowers and ornamental crops (solution consumption - up to 5 l / 1 m2) are diluted per 10 liters of water.

Liquid dressings can be replaced with dry ones, especially in a rainy summer, while carrying out only one dressing in early spring - scatter fertilizers per 1 m2: 1 teaspoon of superphosphate, potassium sulfate, urea, "Potassium humate" for garden flowers and 1 tbsp. spoon of wood ash.

The soil of the plot for planting daffodils is prepared in the summer or at least a month before planting the bulbs so that it has time to settle. The earth is dug to a depth of 35 cm, then 3-4 kg of compost and peat are applied, on heavy soils - a bucket of river sand and rotted humus. From mineral fertilizers - 2 tbsp are applied per 1 m2. tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate and "Intermag" for flowers and ornamental crops (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water, solution consumption - up to 5 l / 1 m2). Then they dig it up a second time in order to close the fertilizer to a depth of 10–12 cm. This can be done with an iron rake. In this form, the site is left until autumn, that is, before planting the bulbs.

Daffodil bulbs are planted when the heat subsides - at the end of August, during September. Before planting, the bulbs are well examined and all suspicious ones with spots, soft and damaged are removed.

If there is hot, dry weather in May and June, then daffodils should be watered from the time of regrowth until the leaves begin to wilt. Watering after flowering promotes the accumulation of nutrients in the bulb. The bulbs are usually dug up in July, when the leaves and roots have dried up.

If the bulbs are not dug up, then after drying, the leaves are cut off and the soil is loosened with a rake, preventing weeds from developing. In the second half of August, if the weather is dry, be sure to watered, since at this time the growth of roots begins.

The photo of planting and caring for daffodils shows how to grow these flowers:

Disease and pest control of daffodils

Daffodils, in comparison with other bulbous crops, suffer less from diseases and pests. Of the pests, the most dangerous are the narcissus fly and the bulbous hoverfly. In appearance, lifestyle and the nature of the damage they inflict, they are similar to each other. The larvae are harmful. Having penetrated into the bulb through the top, bottom or mechanically damaged tissue areas, they penetrate its juicy parts with passages. A severely damaged bulb only has the walls, the inner part turns into a black rotting mass.

Control measures. To reduce the degree of infection, it is recommended to periodically spray the plants with a 0.3% solution of karbofos during the growing season. Instead of spraying, tape application of granular basudin (0.3 g / m) to the soil is effective. It will complicate the penetration of the larvae into the bulb and a simple agricultural technique - loosening the surface of the site after harvesting the leaves.

The stem nematode, a microscopic filamentous pest, is also widespread. Hibernates in bulbs, in soil, on plant debris. Nematodes lay eggs in plant tissues, penetrating into the bulbs through the bottom or stomata of the leaves; larvae hatch there, which, like adult nematodes, feed on plant sap. Daffodils affected by a nematode lag behind in growth, the leaves bend and thicken in the lower part, gradually turn yellow and dry out. White spots appear on the bulbs. When the bulbs are cut, you can see that the inner tissues are loose and brown or gray in color. The scales of the affected bulb do not adhere tightly to each other, so it becomes soft to the touch. Due to the overgrowth of the storage inner scales, the outer scales crack. With a strong infection, the bottom of the bulbs becomes rotten and disappears, the bulb dies.

Control measures with stem nematodes - agrotechnical, providing for the introduction of crop rotation, in which daffodils can be returned to their original place not earlier than after 4-5 years, and in the interval not to grow plants affected by a nematode on it. Good results are obtained by processing the bulbs with hot water (43-45 degrees) for 2-3 hours. The soil where the daffodils affected by the nematode grew are disinfected with Milon (60g / m2) 30-40 days before planting. Protects daffodils from nematodes and sowing calendula or tagedes between them, the root secretions of which attract pests and kill them.

Root bulb mite- a pest that is widespread everywhere. Affects bulbs during the growing season and during storage. Settling on the bulb, the tick wears out the bottom, which turns into a rotten mass. Having penetrated inside the bulb, the tick feeds on scales. The affected areas are easy to find by yellow-brown stripes, lines on the scales and mealy secretions of the tick.

Control measures. To protect the bulbs from damage by the tick during storage, it is necessary to disinfect the store before loading with sulfur dioxide (80-100g / m3), maintain the air humidity in it not higher than 70%, etch the bulbs with a 0.3% solution of one of the preparations: foundationol, rogor, cydial, bazudin, carbicron for 20 minutes.

Of the diseases, the most common is fusarium rot of bulbs, which mainly affects daffodils during storage, and is less common in the field. In diseased plants, the leaves turn yellow and are pulled out relatively easily. The roots of the bulbs rot away and fall off the bottom. On the bottom, on the scales, a white bloom is visible (fungal mycelium). The fungus penetrates deeply into the tissues of the bulbs, which soften and turn brown. External signs of the disease of the bulbs in the storage are manifested in the fact that the tissues in the area of ​​the bottom and bases of the scales soften, turn brown, chocolate brown, and sometimes brick red. Rot gradually spreads up the scales. Fusarium disease most often develops with late digging of the bulbs, affecting them during storage, especially if the bulbs were dug up in damp weather and were poorly dried before storage, or, conversely, were exposed to high temperatures (24-27C) and direct sun rays over time. Having found bulbs sick with fusarium, it is necessary to immediately disinfect healthy ones with a foundation or topsin 0.2% solution for 20 minutes. During the growing season, preventive treatment of plants with fungicides is carried out: benlate, baseol at a concentration of 0.2% or captan at a concentration of 0.5% with a flow rate of the working fluid from 80 to 120 ml / m2.

Gray rot- a disease that actively develops in spring in cold rainy weather, especially in low areas with heavy soils. The plant becomes infected in the field, and the disease progresses when the bulbs are stored in cold and humid conditions. The bases of the leaves are affected, especially on one side, where brown depressed spots are formed, which further grow. The leaves turn yellow from bottom to top and dry out even before flowering. With an excess of moisture, a gray bloom appears on the dead leaf areas, small spots on the flowers, and wet rot on the bulbs. Black sclerotia form on the surface of the affected tissues.

Control measures. During the appearance of the first foci of the disease, daffodils are sprayed with captan or benlate at a concentration of 0.15-0.2%. They are processed several times at intervals of 8-10 days. Diseased bulbs are discarded and destroyed.

Excessive doses of organic fertilizers provoke the appearance of sclerocial rot. In the affected plants, the leaves turn yellow, wilt, and then completely dry out. The bulbs under the influence of the pathogen soften, become covered with abundant mycelium, radiating out in the form of long white filaments, and die.

Control measures: early digging, deep plowing of infected areas, correct crop rotation, destruction of affected plants.

Penicillosis may occur in low, damp areas. In diseased plants, leaves and peduncles are deformed, light yellow spots of various sizes and shapes are formed on the leaves near the surface of the earth. The affected areas soften, rot and become covered with blue-green spores of the pathogen. On bulbs, penicillosis is easily detected by spots covered with bluish-greenish sporulation of the fungus. The disease develops very intensively during storage on poorly dried bulbs at high relative humidity.

Control measures: lowering the relative humidity of air to 60-65%, ventilation of the storage, dusting the affected bulbs with a mixture of sulfur and polycarbacin in a 1: 1 ratio.

Stagonosporosis- develops in early spring during a cold snap. On the leaves, first in the upper part, then along the entire leaf blade along the main vein, spots of a round or oval-elongated shape appear. A chlorotic (lighter) zone is visible around the spots. As the spots dry out, pycnidia (receptacles of asexual spores of the fungus) are formed on some part of the spots, clearly visible to the naked eye, small, black, convex, arranged randomly or more often in zones. On bulbs, stagonosporosis is very rare. The disease is clearly visible 4-8 weeks before the onset of natural leaf death.

Control measures: at the first signs of the disease, the plants are sprayed with fungicides (0.5% Bordeaux liquid, 0.4% polycarbacin or 0.3% figon, etc.). After 10-12 days, the treatment is repeated.

Daffodils are also affected by viral diseases of various natures. Streaks and stripes appear on the leaves (light, yellow, silvery), on the flowers - spots irregular shape lighter than the main tone. There are no visually detectable symptoms on the bulbs.

Control measures. The disease is extremely dangerous; its spread can only be prevented by digging up and destroying diseased plants.

Prevention of diseases and pests consists of several methods. The optimal doses of fertilizers must be applied to the soil. An excess of phosphorus and nitrogen contributes to the development of fusarium, potash fertilizers increase resistance to it. Daffodils cannot be planted on an infected area for 5 years. The boxes in which the bulbs are stored must be disinfected. Weak and diseased bulbs must be destroyed immediately after digging. The bulbs need to be cleaned of old scales and roots in time, stored at a temperature not higher than +18 ° C and a humidity not higher than 60%.

Against fungal diseases before planting daffodil bulbs must be soaked for half an hour in a solution of the drug "Maxim".

A decrease in the number of flowering plants serves as a signal for transplanting daffodils. As soon as the leaves turn yellow, you can start digging the bulbs. It is advisable to do this on time, because the bulbs will quickly begin to root. In addition, late digging of the bulbs can reduce the quality of the bulbs.

Dug out bulbs must first of all carefully examine, remove and destroy diseased or rotten ones. Healthy bulbs are thoroughly cleaned, sorted by size, washed, disinfected in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate and left to dry in the open air in shallow boxes or boxes without access to sunlight. The storage temperature should not exceed + 17 ° C, the room should be frequently ventilated.