When can you plant raspberries in autumn Kemerovo. What is remontant raspberry

With the advent of autumn, there are no less worries in the garden. It is necessary to have time to collect and process the remains of the crop, plant the acquired seedlings, and prepare the garden for the coming winter.

In this article we will talk about raspberries, what to do with raspberries in the fall. The most common questions beginner gardeners ask are:

autumn harvest

• How and when is it better to plant raspberries in the fall?
• How to prune bushes?
• How to transplant raspberries to a new place.
• How to prepare plants for winter.

Let's start with the autumn planting of raspberries.

Planting raspberries in autumn

Boarding times. The most favorable time for the autumn planting of raspberries is from mid-September to mid-October. Depending on the region, these terms may vary slightly. The main condition is that about a month should pass from planting raspberries to the onset of frost. This time is enough for the plants to take root and take root in a new place. Poorly rooted seedlings may not survive the winter, so planting in late autumn is risky.

When is the best time to plant raspberries, autumn or spring? Raspberries are definitely best planted in the fall. Subject to the rules and terms of planting, seedlings winter well, quickly start growing in spring and are far ahead of plants planted in spring. And in general, caring for autumn plantings is much easier. In autumn, the weather is more favorable, there is no spring heat, which greatly complicates the survival of plants after planting.

What is the difference between the autumn planting of raspberries from the spring? The best survival of seedlings. By itself, the planting technique is the same in spring and autumn. The yield of your raspberry will depend to a greater extent on the following factors:

1. Responsibly approach the choice of raspberry varieties.
2. Pick a suitable location.
3. Conduct pre-landing preparations.

The choice of variety is a separate topic and we will talk about it in the next article, so we will immediately move on to the second point.

Where to plant. Raspberry is a surprisingly unpretentious plant, it can grow anywhere, without special care, and at the same time it can still produce some kind of crop. Of course, “some kind of harvest” will not suit us, we need the branches to literally burst from ripening berries, and for this we need to take into account everything that raspberries love and dislike.

Raspberries do not like low, wetlands very much, they do not bear fruit well in the shade and with a dense planting. Soils prefer light loamy, well-filled with organic matter. Most often, it is planted along the fence or wall of the house with sunny side. Almost no one washes raspberries before eating, so try not to plant them near dirt roads, where there is often a lot of dust.

Raspberries are best planted in a bright, sunny place.

Requirements for planting material. The thickness of the shoots of seedlings should be about one centimeter. A root system with a thick lobe and a length of at least 10 cm. Thin, fibrous roots die very quickly in the sun, so drop them as soon as possible or at least wrap them in a wet rag.

Landing scheme. There are two main ways of planting raspberries - bush and tape. With the bush method of planting, the raspberry will consist of bushes in each of which there will be 8-10 shoots of different ages. The distance between the bushes in a row 1 - 1.2 meters, and between the rows 1.5 - 2 meters.

When planting with a ribbon, strips of raspberry stalks with a width of no more than 40 cm are formed. The distance between plants is 40 - 50 cm, and between rows is 1.5 - 2 meters.

Watch a video on how to plant raspberries so that they give a generous harvest for many years:

How to plant raspberries in autumn

Raspberries will bear fruit for a long time and abundantly if organic matter is generously introduced into the ground before planting. Who knows the principles natural farming he knows what he is talking about.

At first glance, such pre-landing preparation may seem extremely complicated and time-consuming. In fact, everything is not so difficult, but in the future you can do without any top dressing and fertilizers at all.

First of all, we dig a trench.

At autumn planting raspberries, you need to start such preparation in advance. First of all, you need to dig a trench 40 - 50 cm wide and about 40 cm deep.

Lay the pieces of wood at the bottom of the trench and cover them with manure.

Lay any pieces of wood at the bottom of the trench, preferably already half-rotten. Sprinkle manure on top with a layer of seven to ten centimeters. If there is no manure, then use vegetable humus from compost heap. If there is no compost heap, then fill in the fallen leaves, tops, grass. All this will gradually rot and supply your raspberries with all the necessary nutrition. So that later the plants do not scatter from the garden, immediately install pieces of slate or roofing material in the trench.

It remains to fill the trench with earth and spill water.

Add fertile soil from above, water well and wait until the soil settles, you may have to add more soil.

We plant raspberries in the prepared trench.

Autumn planting of raspberries. Prepare holes of such a size that the root system of the seedlings fits freely there. Straighten the roots into different sides, make sure that they do not wrap up and cover with earth. The root neck of the plants should be at ground level or slightly lower. Some novice gardeners consider the recommendations “straighten the roots ...” optional, “on duty”, but this is not at all the case. When planting any seedling, the roots must be straightened and directed downward, then it will be much easier for the plant to take root in a new place.

After planting, water the seedlings and mulch.

After planting, water the seedlings well and mulch with manure (if any) or fallen leaves, straw. If you plant raspberries in the spring, then immediately after planting, it is necessary to cut the seedlings to a height of 15 - 20 cm. When planting in the autumn, it is also better to prune in the spring. Any pruning provokes the growth of side shoots and if the autumn is warm, then the seedlings may have time to release young shoots. In winter, of course, they will die, and this is highly undesirable.

Of course, not everyone will be able to carry out such pre-landing preparation, which is described above. Of course, raspberries can also be planted in ordinary pits, but in this case, half a bucket of humus, 30 g, should be added to the wells. superphosphate and 20 gr. potassium salt. Nitrogen fertilizers, such as urea or saltpeter, are not recommended when planting raspberries.

The most common mistake when planting raspberries is overcrowding.

Pruning raspberries in autumn

Pruning remontant raspberries and ordinary raspberries is carried out in different ways. To be precise, ordinary raspberries are not pruned in the fall. It is pruned in the summer, immediately after harvest.

The raspberry bush consists of shoots from the previous year and young shoots grown this year. The crop is formed on the shoots of the previous year, and these shoots must be cut immediately after harvesting. This should not be delayed, because they interfere with the development of young plants, which should receive a lot of light and sun.

Together with the cutting of old shoots that begin to dry out, the remaining young shoots are also rationed. First of all, remove the weak, underdeveloped ones, and from the strong ones, select and leave 4-5 of the most powerful shoots in each bush. Do not feel sorry for them, because new shoots will begin to grow in the spring and in the summer there will be no longer 4-5, 8-10 shoots in the bushes.

If for some reason you did not prune in the summer, you will have to prune the raspberries in the fall, but next year try to do everything on time.

Pruning raspberries in autumn video:

Pruning remontant raspberries in autumn

Repair raspberries can be grown in two ways:

1. For two harvests. The first harvest ripens in late June - July, and the second from early September until frost.
2. For one harvest. This harvest ripens from the end of August and also continues until frost.

These are, of course, very approximate dates, which may vary depending on the region and raspberry variety. Each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages that gardeners have been arguing about for many years.

Using the first method, you will eat raspberries almost all summer, but the plants will be somewhat more susceptible to diseases and pests.

Choosing the second option, you will get one autumn, very plentiful harvest, which is comparable in weight to the two harvests obtained with the first method of cultivation. Try both of these methods and decide for yourself which one is better.

And now let's talk about autumn pruning, because with the methods described above, raspberries are cut in different ways.

Pruning repair raspberries video:

Pruning raspberries when grown for two crops

In remontant raspberries, the crop is formed both on the shoots of the previous year and on the young shoots that have grown this year, so two crops can be harvested from it in one year. Pruning remontant raspberries grown for two crops is very similar to pruning ordinary raspberries.

In the same way, after harvesting the summer crop, the fruiting shoots must be cut out immediately. This is usually done in late July or early August. The remaining young shoots at this time are already gaining color, and in early September the berries on them are already beginning to ripen.

The entire autumn harvest will be concentrated on the top of the shoots. After harvesting, it is this panicle with the remaining dry inflorescences that must be cut off. This is where the autumn pruning of remontant raspberries ends. It remains only to bend the shoots to the ground so that they do not freeze in winter.

Many gardeners, growing ordinary raspberries, cut off the tops of their heads in June so that side shoots grow. In remontant raspberries, the tops cannot be cut in summer, otherwise you will destroy part of the crop, which is formed on the upper third of the shoot.

Autumn pruning of remontant raspberries when grown for one crop

If you decide to grow remontant raspberries for one autumn harvest, then there is no need to save the shoots of the previous year. In late autumn, simply cut off absolutely all the shoots to the very ground, but do this only in late autumn, even better in frost. If you cut the shoots when it is still warm, then after pruning, young sprouts will begin to grow, which will surely die in winter.

In the spring, young growth will appear from the ground, there will be a lot of it, but you can’t leave it all. For each bush, leave 3 - 4 of the largest shoots, remove the rest. Once again I want to remind you that the most common and ubiquitous mistake when growing raspberries is overcrowded plantings. Modern varieties raspberries give very large yields, but only if the bushes are well lit.

Pruning remontant raspberries in autumn.

At the end of August, the berries will begin to ripen, and after harvesting, in late autumn, cut your raspberry again to the very ground, and so from year to year. In winter, beds with such raspberries go bare, only stumps stick out.

Transplanting raspberries in the fall

Most often, gardeners are interested in the question: when is it better to transplant raspberries in the fall?

Autumn transplanting of raspberries to a new place (as well as planting raspberries in autumn) is best done from mid-September to mid-October.

Raspberries are transplanted to a new place, as a rule, in two cases:

1. If she was put in the wrong place and she suddenly began to interfere.
2. Raspberries grew in one place for a long time, crops began to fall, and raspberries need to be transplanted to rejuvenate the plantation.

This clarification had to be made, because raspberries are transplanted in these two cases somewhat differently.

If a year or two after planting it turned out that the raspberries were planted “in the wrong place”, then the young bushes are carefully dug up and transferred to a new place, trying not to damage the roots. The new place should have been carefully prepared by then.

If raspberries are transplanted to rejuvenate raspberries, then the old bushes are uprooted and thrown away, there will be no sense from them. Young, strong shoots are chosen for planting in a new place. The best time to transplant is in the fall. Raspberry transplant technology is no different from planting.

For plantation rejuvenation, transplantation is the most effective technique. The reason is clear: in a new place, you can safely prepare trenches or planting pits, fill them with organic matter and fertilizers. Unfortunately, not everyone has the opportunity to move the raspberry to a new place from time to time.

You can rejuvenate raspberries without transplanting them. To do this, the old rhizome is simply cut down with a shovel, and young growth will begin to grow from the roots remaining in the ground. It is from this growth that new bushes are formed.

How to bend raspberries for the winter

Most often, the tops of the branches freeze near raspberries. To prevent this from happening, the bushes must be bent to the ground. Of course, laying the shoots on the ground will not work, they will simply break, and this is not necessary. It is enough to bend the stems in an arc and tie them to the bottom of the neighboring bush. The photo clearly shows how it looks. Bending the shoots to the ground should be before the onset of frost, otherwise they will freeze and become brittle.

In winter, it is advisable to cover the raspberries with snow, but this should be done in frosty weather, when the snow is soft and fluffy. If you fall asleep bent bushes with wet, heavy snow, then they can be broken like that. Raspberries covered with snow always winter very well.

Foreword

You can plant raspberries at any time of the year, except for winter, of course: in spring, and in summer, and in autumn. In each case, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the variety and the planting region, as well as follow at least the basic rules for planting this plant. However, autumn is still considered the most preferred time.

Raspberries, like all other berry bushes, are recommended to be planted in the fall for the reason that they take root better, and in the spring they develop more actively and intensively. With timely and proper autumn planting, as well as successful wintering, the first harvest of berries can be harvested next year. However, experienced gardeners it is strongly recommended to abandon it in favor of a powerful and intensive growth of replacement shoots and subsequent abundant raspberry harvests in future years.

To do this, it is necessary to cut off the fruiting stems in the first year after the autumn planting. In the spring, plants, as a rule, do not have time to take root due to planting too late or early strong warming. With the onset of sufficiently warm weather, the movement of juice in their trunks becomes so intense that the development of roots is greatly slowed down. In raspberries, the active growth of young shoots begins. This greatly weakens seedlings that have not had time to take root, since their roots are not able to provide the entire plant with the necessary moisture and substances in the amount it needs.

During the autumn planting, if it is carried out in a timely manner, raspberries, as a rule, have time to take root even before the onset of winter. And then also in the spring she has some time for this. Another advantage of planting shrubs in the fall is the predominance of cool rainy weather during this time of the year. It is best suited for the development of roots, that is, the rooting of the plant. The most preferred autumn planting of raspberries for the southern regions, as it does not like heat and is moisture-loving. And in the south, a long and rather wet autumn, plus a mild winter, and spring is characterized by almost summer, hot weather, forcing the buds of seedlings to bloom even before they take root.

Autumn planting raspberries

Raspberries take root well after autumn planting and in middle lane. However, in these regions it is necessary to pay Special attention wintering conditions for plants.

The presence of even a small snow cover over the raspberries is considered an excellent protection for the surviving seedlings from frost. But too thick a layer (more than 50 cm) of snow can be fatal for raspberries. It is possible that she will podprevat. To prevent this, seedlings planted in autumn are recommended to equip an air-dry shelter for the winter.

Only in the northern regions is spring more preferable than autumn. And even then, mainly only because it is difficult to calculate the onset of frost in the fall. Well, besides, often winters are snowless and harsh, because of which not only not fully rooted seedlings, but even adult plants can freeze out. Nevertheless, if in the northern regions the autumn planting is not too late and a good shelter is made for the seedlings for the winter, then they will be able to take root and overwinter quite successfully. Moreover, in this case, they will take root better than during spring planting.

When exactly can you plant raspberry seedlings in the fall? It's believed that optimal time is the end of September (the last decade) - the beginning of October (the first decade). Although by and large for raspberry seedlings with a closed root system landing time does not play a fundamental role. The main thing is to give them the opportunity to take root before the onset of winter, that is, plant them no later than 2 weeks before the soil freezes.

However, for the best rooting and subsequent growth of raspberries, it is desirable to take into account the cycles of its development. This implies planting after the growing season of that plant has ended. That is, when it finally matures, and well-marked, fully formed replacement buds appear on the raspberry root neck. In this case, the bushes will stop growing and go into a dormant stage, which can be determined by the intense fall of the leaves. Depending on the variety, this time falls on different periods of autumn. By mid-September, as a rule, replacement buds will have already formed, and large, the earliest varieties ( Black Cumberland, Lyashka), and most remontants ( Shelf, Bryansk wonder, Brusvyan) ripen only by the end of October.

Ripening raspberry buds

Alas, unfortunately, replanting and planting raspberries, taking into account their ripening, is obtained for the most part only by experienced gardeners who have had raspberries for several years. Beginners in this business have to be content with purchased or give-and-take planting material, which they begin to sell in September-October or are given by neighbors in the area and familiar gardeners. These seedlings may not yet be fully mature and therefore require additional care and attention.

But in any case, choosing a variety and planting material for autumn planting raspberries, it is advisable to pay special attention to the winter hardiness of seedlings and their appearance. They must have mature stems in the amount of one to three (no more) with a thickness of 5 to 8 mm and a fibrous, well-developed, healthy root system, having a length of 15–20 cm.

Planting non-hardy raspberries (varieties Cumberland,Himbo Top) in the middle lane and in the north it is better to postpone until spring. Seedlings acquired or taken on the side with an open root system must not be overdried until planted. To prevent this from happening, they should be planted as soon as possible or wrapped for a while before planting with wet grass or a rag.

Best of all, this plant takes root and develops on well-drained fertile (fertilized), as well as light loamy soils. Therefore, when there is different types soil, it is possible and even recommended to use it. So raspberries, organized on fertilized sandy soil, will begin to bear fruit about 10–14 days earlier than those planted on light loamy soil. That is, by planting raspberries in groups of bushes in different places on the site, the gardener will be able to increase the duration of its fruiting period.

Raspberry fruiting

However, the main thing when choosing a place is not only to ensure good survival of seedlings, that is, their full development in the first year after planting, but also to ensure that in the future, in subsequent years, raspberries grow and develop normally. Raspberries should not be planted where groundwater is close to the surface, and the possibility of moisture stagnation in the soil must be excluded. In addition, the landing site should not have a deep shadow and strong gusts of wind, especially from the north. It is desirable that the place was sunny and located near the fence, especially in the case of landing where there is no natural protection from the wind. It will serve as an additional or basic protection.

If landing is carried out in rows, then it is recommended to place them (form) from north to south (from south to north) or from northeast to southwest (from southwest to northeast). With this orientation, the bushes extreme on the north side will serve as additional protection for the entire row, and the entire raspberry will receive more sunlight and warmth.

The basic requirements for raspberry planting material have already been given above in terms of autumn planting. To this we can only add how to choose seedlings in your own raspberry bush and prepare them for planting. It is necessary to choose young offspring, which originate from the root of the bush. Of course, they must be exceptionally strong and with well-formed healthy shoots.

planting material

And you can also take seedlings from a completely dug bush. To do this, it will need to be divided into several parts, each of which must contain at least one shoot. Strong young seedlings from an adult bush can be taken without digging it up. To do this, they just need to be carefully separated from it. The landing itself and the methods of its implementation are no different from that, or in the summer. Just before planting directly, the seedling must first be cleared of leaves and shortened. To do this, cut off the top of the shoot. The height of the resulting seedling should not exceed 40 cm. Experienced gardeners recommend 20–30 cm.

Shortening will allow the new bush to take root better and faster, and then develop, which as a result will lead to its greater fruiting. If this rule is neglected, then the raspberry will have to spend all its energy on survival, and it will not begin to form new shoots soon. And before planting seedlings, it is advisable to dip their roots in a creamy mixture of mullein and clay with the addition of heteroauxin (root wine).

With the advent of stable cold weather (usually in October), it is necessary to mulch the soil around the seedlings. It will slightly delay the freezing of the soil, which will give the root system additional time to develop and grow. For mulching we use dry sawdust, fallen leaves of trees, needles. The selected material is laid on the soil with a layer about 10 cm thick.

However, when the autumn is rainy and with sharp frosts, there is a great danger that the mulch will turn into a solid ice crust. This will most likely lead to freezing of young roots and replacement raspberry buds. In order to save the fragile newly planted bushes until spring, it is necessary to make an air-dry shelter for them. It will also keep the raspberries from overheating. Such a shelter is arranged as follows.

We install a frame around (along the perimeter) of group plantings, and inside the raspberry bush along the rows of seedlings we drive in supports (the same as under the trellises) and then we pull a wire on them 40–50 cm from the soil. The frame should be slightly below the level of the wire support. Then we fasten the covering material (preferably container cardboard, reed and reed mats or roofing felt) to the frame and overlap it on the wire. You should get a shelter that looks like a hut. It must be covered from above. plastic wrap, which will prevent the covering material from getting wet quickly.

Raspberry planters

Such a “fur coat” will allow raspberries to winter well even in the harsh climatic conditions of the northern regions, when the thickness of the snow cover will not exceed 35 cm. However, it will be necessary to ensure that the snowdrift above the shelter does not exceed the height of 70 cm. This snow will be superfluous and it needs to be cleaned up. Otherwise, the raspberries will become too warm, and in the spring they may not come out of their dormant period. This will manifest itself in the fact that buds will bloom weakly and shoots will grow less actively.

After planting in the fall, all varieties of raspberries, without exception, need a shelter that provides a “dry wintering”. Moreover, it must be done in a timely manner, since being late, especially in the case of a late landing, is likely to lead to the death of even frost-resistant species this culture.

In spring, and in some cases even in late winter, as soon as suitable weather, polyethylene from the raspberry shelter must be removed. After 5-7 days, the rest of the covering material must be removed from the raspberries. If the raspberries successfully wintered, then soon green buds will appear on its last year's shoots. This will indicate that the seedlings are healthy and ready for active growth. It is during this period that it is necessary to cut the stems to the level of the soil. Due to this, young bushes will not weaken for fruiting and will direct all their forces to their own strengthening and the formation of new powerful shoots.

Planting any berry bush in the fall is always a little more risky than spring. After all, the planted plant has a frosty winter ahead, which it must survive

As you know, autumn is perhaps the most favorable season for planting many trees and shrubs. And raspberries are no exception, because it is on autumn days that experienced gardeners try to pay more attention to it in order to have it next year. good harvest favorite berry. At the same time, many are interested in when to plant raspberries in the fall, so that they have time to take root and endure the winter well.

When to plant raspberries in autumn

The timing of planting raspberries in the fall varies depending on the climatic characteristics of the region and the specifics of the variety. So, in spring it is better to plant green seedlings, and in summer - seedlings grown in containers. Autumn transplantation of raspberries is carried out after it ripens. The main indicator of raspberry readiness for planting in a new place is the replacement buds, which by the end of the season develop on the root neck of the plant. For more early varieties they are already visible by mid-September, and on later ones - in October. It is necessary to complete work on planting and transplanting plants at least 20 days before the onset of frost, so that the shoots have time to take root.

Site selection for raspberries and soil preparation

Raspberries are a heat-loving shrub, therefore, for planting it, it is better to allocate sunny areas, protected from the wind. It is undesirable to plant raspberries next to potatoes, tomatoes, strawberries and fruit trees because they suffer from the same diseases and pests. Areas where vegetables, gooseberries and currants used to grow are more suitable. The plant grows best on well-drained loam soils. fertile soils. And sandy and sandy soils will need to be regularly fertilized and watered.

Gardeners know that the correct planting of raspberries in the fall requires thorough soil preparation. Usually, a month and a half before planting, the selected area is cleared of perennial weeds and dug up. When digging and preparing pits or trenches, the site is fertilized. To do this, 10-30 kg of humus or compost, about 50 g of potassium sulfate and 60-80 g of superphosphates are added per 1 square meter. Peat soils are enriched with sand (4 buckets per 1 square meter).

planting material

To understand how to plant raspberries in the fall, you also need to know what exactly to plant, and more specifically, which planting material will be more productive. Usually, experts, speaking about the autumn planting of raspberries, recommend choosing for this not large and expensive bushes with a dozen shoots, but medium and even thin seedlings that have no more than three mature stems and a developed fibrous root system. Before planting, they are cut so that the length of the seedling does not exceed 35 cm.

Ways to plant raspberries

Often, when preparing a site, gardeners immediately determine how to plant raspberries in the fall, or rather, which planting method to use - trench or hole.

1. trench landing method
For seedlings, trenches are prepared with a depth of 40-45 cm and a width of 50-60 cm. The plants are placed in a trench at a distance of about 40 cm, and the gap between the furrows is 1.5 m. Already during the preparation of the furrow, fertilizers are applied to it. If there is a fertile topsoil, the trench is filled with it instead of fertilizer, and ash can also be added directly during planting. True, it must be used carefully so that there is no high alkali content in the soil. Nitrogen fertilizers should not be used when planting, as they can have Negative influence for the development and wintering of the plant.

During planting, the roots are dipped into a solution based on mullein with clay, lowered into a furrow and gently sprinkled with soil, periodically shaking the sprouts so that the soil evenly covers the roots. Next, the plants need to be well watered, and the soil around them is compacted and mulched.

Many believe that the correct planting of raspberries in the autumn in a trench way also implies a special arrangement of the furrows themselves, which should be directed from the northeast to the southwest or from north to south. This will allow more access to the raspberries for sunlight in the morning and afternoon hours.

2. Pit, or bush planting method
At the same time, planting remontant raspberries in the fall is considered more effective if it is carried out in a patch, or bush, way. Like trenches, pits are prepared in advance. Usually they are made up to 60 cm in diameter and up to 40 cm deep. Row spacings are usually left at least 1.5 meters, and the distance between the bushes themselves is 0.7-1 m. The bottom of the pits is filled with fertilizer or the upper fertile soil layer, which, when planted loosen. Planted carefully, with soil compaction, abundant watering and mulching.

Related works

When can you transplant raspberries in the fall
Often thinking about when to plant raspberries in the fall, gardeners are simultaneously wondering about moving some bushes. Raspberry transplantation is carried out at the same time as the planting of seedlings. The main thing is to select young powerful bushes with well-developed roots in advance and cut them off at the level of a meter from the roots. Simultaneously with the transplantation of raspberries in the fall, it is possible to prepare and, the method of reproduction of which has already been described earlier.

Tapestry installation
Along with recommendations on how to properly plant raspberries in the fall, it is often advised to tie raspberries after planting. In particular, with a trench planting method, the shoots are tied up according to the trellis principle. In this case, the bushes are planted at a distance of 70 cm, placing two seedlings in the holes, and the aisles are made up to 1.8 m, so that the raspberries are well translucent by the sun.

Columns are hammered along the edges of the rows, between which a cord or galvanized wire with a cross section of at least 4 mm is stretched at a height of 1 m. If the rows are long, then it is recommended to install several additional columns. Raspberry shoots are tightly tied to a stretched wire at a distance of 10 cm from each other. The next year, two more wires are pulled at a height of 0.3 and 1.5 m. The lower layer is necessary for tying young offspring bent over for the winter, and the upper one is useful for tying taller shoots. The construction of columns with wire and raspberry stems tied on it is called a trellis. This technique helps to compactly place the bushes and provide them with uniform access to light.

With a competent approach to planting raspberries in autumn, a good harvest is harvested next year. It remains only to protect young seedlings from cold weather and excessive moisture by covering the root system with fallen leaves, and the shoots with polyethylene stretched over the frame.

Turn on the light

Raspberry is a photophilous plant. With its lack, the shoots are drawn out, the berries ripen much more slowly and become smaller. Plants prepare worse for winter and can simply die from the cold.

Raspberries cannot tolerate even a short drought. This is due to the superficial location of the root system and the delicate structure of the fruit.

In addition, the tender shrub does not tolerate cold winter winds. Therefore, it is better to plant it in a protected place. Acidic soils are lime. To do this, in the fall we add lime or wood ash.

The main thing is the roots

The optimal time for planting raspberries is autumn (September - October) or early spring. Plants with a closed root system in pots or containers can be planted all season long. Most importantly, when buying, pay attention that the seedling is strong, with a developed root system. The bush should be free of damage and stains. Such seedlings take root better and bear fruit well. If you bought a plant with an open root system, then dip it in water or a root stimulant solution for several hours.

We dig up the soil, select weeds and apply fertilizer. For processing one square meter we prepare such a mixture: mix a bucket of rotted manure or humus with 200 g of superphosphate and a small amount of wood ash. You can apply a smaller amount of fertilizer, but directly into the planting hole.

For planting, we prepare holes 30 x 30 cm. Half fill them with rotted manure, humus, peat, wood ash. You can add a handful of complex mineral fertilizer directly into the pit.

We pour a mound of earth on top, straighten the roots of the plant on it and carefully bury it.

The distance between raspberry seedlings should be at least a meter (maximum 1.8 m). Do not forget to water each raspberry bush abundantly after planting, at least 1 bucket (10 liters) per plant.

In the area where long time raspberries grow, the soil is depleted, weeds, pathogens and pests accumulate. Therefore, it is absolutely impossible to plant new bushes in the old place. The best predecessors for raspberries can be onions, carrots, beets, radishes, lettuce and dill.

BY THE WAY

Raspberries are a weakly winter-hardy crop. Often, plants no longer withstand frosts at -30 ° C. For our region, choose zoned varieties.

MASTER CLASS

Escape lives for two years

The main feature of raspberries, unlike others berry bushes in that its shoots are not older than 2 years. The overwintered stems do not grow the next year. Branches of various lengths develop from axillary buds. The most fruitful branches are at a height of 60 - 150 cm.

Every year the plant, along with berries and branches, absorbs a large number of nutrients, as a result, the soil is depleted, and the berries become smaller or disappear altogether. Therefore, in order to get a bountiful harvest, fertilizer must be applied annually. The soil under the bush must be loosened, but this must be done carefully, trying not to damage the roots. In the first year, plants do not need additional fertilizers; those that were introduced during planting are quite enough. But watering is very useful, especially in dry summers. Moisture is simply necessary for raspberries during flowering and at the time of ripening berries. Mulch the soil under and around bushes with straw, grass clippings, tree bark, or special material. This will help retain moisture in the soil and control weeds.

Secateurs in hand

After harvesting, we cut out all the two-year-old stems at the very surface of the soil, leaving no stumps. Root offspring that are not intended for reproduction are also removed. In the spring we examine the tops of the shoots. If they did not suffer from frost, then we shorten them slightly. Damaged shoots should be shortened to a healthy bud.

For the winter, raspberries should be bent down. Don't wait for full leaf fall. Bend down the plants while they are still flexible enough to be easy to work with.

IMPORTANT!

Raspberry grows very quickly and occupies new areas. Consider this feature. For reliability, you can even enclose a bush (dig it into the ground) with a special plastic tape.