Agrotechnics of cucumber in film greenhouses (candidate of agricultural sciences). Proper agricultural practices for growing tomatoes

To get early potatoes in a greenhouse, cultivation techniques can be almost the same as for open ground. When growing an early crop in a greenhouse, you have to do almost everything hand tools. It's physically hard and not very comfortable. Therefore, along with traditional weeding and hilling in the greenhouse cultivation of young potatoes, gardeners also use special methods.

Before it's time to take care of the choice of plant care methods, you need to properly prepare the tubers and the substrate for good potato growth. This should be done in the fall.

For seeds, tubers about 4-5 cm in diameter should be selected. Too much large potatoes you will have to cut it when planting, and in closed ground conditions this can provoke an outbreak of diseases in plants when a large mass of tubers begins to rot. When using tubers of a small fraction, this does not happen: they remain intact even during the formation of a new crop.

This simple procedure allows the seeds to better transfer winter storage, and rodents that have penetrated into the basement practically do not damage bitter tubers. Boxes with seeds should be stored separately from marketable potatoes, since solanine formed in green tubers is poisonous.

To grow a very early crop, a greenhouse or greenhouse should be prepared accordingly:

• remove the fertile layer of soil over the entire area of ​​​​the ridge or greenhouse;
• lay a layer of humus or peat about 10-15 cm thick on the bottom;
• pour fertile garden soil over it, seasoned with compost or humus (5-7 kg) with the addition of wood ash (200-250 g per 1 m²), its thickness can be up to 20 cm.

In this case, peat serves as a heat insulator from the underlying, frozen layers of the earth. After turning on the heating in the spring in a heated greenhouse upper layer the substrate warms up for 3-4 days, then the tubers are planted. It will be possible to collect young potatoes in May. To harvest at a later date, when preparing the soil, you can limit yourself to digging and applying fertilizer in the proportions proposed above, or replace it with a complex mineral fertilizer.

Seed potato tubers should be germinated about 1 month before planting.

To do this, they are laid out in boxes and kept in a warm room (18-25 ° C) for several days. As soon as the growth of the eyes becomes noticeable, the boxes can be moved to a cooler place (12-18 ° C) with good lighting. During vernalization, green short sprouts about 1 cm long are formed on the tubers with leaf rudiments and developed roots. The material prepared in this way can already be planted for growing early potatoes.

Planting and caring for potatoes in a greenhouse

Growing potatoes in a greenhouse can be done the same as in open field: tubers are placed in holes 8-10 cm deep and covered with soil flush with the soil surface. Planting pattern 65x25 cm, tubers can be placed in checkerboard pattern. Irrigation is not performed at this stage.

After the appearance of the first shoots (after 10-14 days), it is important to maintain the air temperature in the greenhouse within 18-20 ° C in order to ensure good growth of green mass and the laying of stolons, on which young tubers will form. When the top layer of soil dries out 1-2 cm deep, it is necessary to irrigate with water at room temperature at the rate of 1-2 liters per bush. As the potato grows, the amount of water should be increased, bringing it to the flowering phase up to 10 liters per plant.

During the period of bud formation and during flowering, the temperature should be increased to 21-23°C. During the budding of potatoes, bushes are hilled to increase the number of stems with tubers (stolons). Simultaneously with the hilling of the row-spacing, the plantings are also freed from weeds.

At the end of flowering and fall more flowers begins the period of formation of tubers. It is desirable at this time to reduce the temperature in the greenhouse to 17-20 ° C, and watering should be done only as the topsoil dries out. The collection of young tubers can be started 10-14 days after the end of flowering. not to destroy a large number of bushes, the largest tubers can be carefully cut off from the stolons, raking the shaft of soil poured during hilling at the roots. After harvesting, small tubers are covered with soil again.

An unconventional method of growing potatoes

To save effort during the hilling operation and get more high yields young potatoes in a greenhouse, gardeners use the cultivation of potatoes in furrows (Fig. 1). This method is not suitable for obtaining an extra early harvest in May, but can be used for planting at a later date.

In heated and prepared soil, you need to dig furrows with a width and depth of about 30 cm. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. At the bottom of the furrows, make holes in increments of 25-30 cm, in neighboring furrows the holes can be staggered. Place the potatoes in the holes and sprinkle with soil (1 and 2). After shoots appear and reach a height of 6-8 cm, they should be covered again with soil from the edges of the furrow (3).

The sprouts that have begun to germinate through this layer of soil fall asleep again, aligning the edges of the furrow with the surface (4), and then repeat the procedure again, hilling the bushes as in normal planting at the time of plant budding (5). As a result, an increased yield can be harvested per unit area due to the formation of stolons along the entire length of the stems covered with soil (6).

By growing potatoes in a heated greenhouse, you can get a very early harvest of young tubers, and re-plant after they are harvested. If desired, even in a greenhouse without heating, you can harvest young potatoes until July, and then sow daikon or radish, green and other early crops.

Greenhouse disinfection

From autumn or early spring, the greenhouse is thoroughly disinfected with the following solution: for 10 liters of water, take 2 Iskra tablets and 2 bags of Oxychoma or Homa, spending 1 liter per 10 m. Or for 10 liters of water add 2 tbsp. tablespoons of copper sulfate and 100 g of tar soap (this is for diseases), and for pests - 50 g of "Karbofos" also per 10 liters of water.

Cucumber is demanding on highly fertile, loose, well-permeable soils for air, water and heat. The best soils are loamy, with high content manure or vegetable humus, as well as peat.

Or decomposed lowland peat mixed with sawdust or finely chopped straw.1. 4 parts loamy soil, 3 parts humus, 3 parts peat; 2. 6 parts loamy soil, 4 parts humus; 3. 5 parts of loamy soil, 5 parts of peat; 4. 4 parts of loamy soil, 2 parts of humus, 1 part of peat, 1 part of sawdust.

Soil mixtures are prepared outside the greenhouse, thoroughly mixed and brought in. Craft beds: it is better to place cucumber beds from west to east, from 70 to 90 cm wide, depending on the width of the greenhouse.

If cucumbers are grown on biofuel, then 12–15 cm of soil mixture is added from above. Without biofuel, the ridges are made from a soil mixture 35–40 cm high. The passage between the ridges is 60–70 cm.

• 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate, 1 teaspoon of superphosphate, 1 tablespoon of wood ash, 1 tablespoon of Organic Fertilizer or Fertility.

Wood ash can be replaced with one tablespoon of Deoxidizer Organic Fertilizer. All fertilizers are scattered evenly and covered with an iron rake to a depth of 8-10 cm.

Then the ridges are watered with the Ideal solution, or liquid Sodium Humate, or Potassium Humate (1 tablespoon is added to 10 liters of warm water (50 ° C), spending a solution of 2 - 3 liters per 1 m). As soon as the ridges are ready, two rows of wire are pulled along each of them at a height of 1.5 - 2 m, at a distance of 20 - 30 cm. The wire must be well fixed so that it does not break under the weight of the crop, wipe the wire with a damp cloth and soap.

Sowing dates.

For film greenhouses, seedlings can be grown in pots on the windowsill from April 2-5 to April 25-30 to plant them in the greenhouse on May 1-20. If the greenhouse is covered with two layers of film and there is additional heating, then there is no need to grow seedlings at home.

Seedlings are grown immediately in a greenhouse in a small garden. Seeds are sown on April 15, and then after 25 - 30 days (approximately May 1 - 15), seedlings are planted over the entire area of ​​the greenhouse, i.e. to a permanent place.

In the event of a decrease in air temperature during the period of seedling growth, it is necessary to close it inside the greenhouse with a light thin film or a special nonwoven fabric(lutrasil, agril, etc.). Seeds for seedlings are sown in pots, cups or bags 8x8 or 10x10 cm in size.

One of the nutrient soil mixtures is poured into the pots: 2 parts of peat and humus and 1 part of small old sawdust, 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska and 2 tablespoons of wood ash are added to a bucket of this mixture. Or other mixture: one part sod land, peat, humus, sawdust, or one part each of peat and humus, one tablespoon of Barrier organic fertilizer and ash is added to a bucket of these mixtures.

Any soil mixture can be replaced with ready-made soil "Live Earth No. 2" or "Live Earth" (universal) without adding other fertilizers. The soil mixture is well mixed and poured to the top in pots.

Then watered with a warm (50 ° C) solution (dissolve 1 tablespoon of liquid Ideal in 10 liters of water). If a soil mix compacted, it is necessary to add soil so that the pot is full. Then put the finished pots on the bed.

The pots are arranged one to one in a bridge way, i.e. no space between them. After that, the beds, together with the pots, are sprayed with a solution before sowing the seeds: 10 g of Hom or Oxyhom are added to 10 liters of water, spending 1 liter of the solution per 5 m. When growing seedlings, it is necessary to maintain the temperature at night at least 12 - 15 ° C .

At night, you need to cover the seedlings warmer, and remove the additional covering material during the day. If during the day the air temperature reaches 20 ° C and above and there is no wind, you can slightly open the window on one side of the greenhouse.

The temperature in the greenhouse should be maintained at a constant level (the difference between day and night is no more than 4 -6 ° C). Too high a temperature causes stretching and weakening of plants, while a temperature below the optimum somewhat inhibits growth, without, however, affecting the normal development of plants.

The temperature in the greenhouse is controlled by ventilation, which can be increased and extended as the outside temperature rises, until the door is opened all day and then at night. The sown seeds, as well as the seedlings that have appeared, should be watered with a small watering can with very small holes.

The watering rate depends on the growth phase and the ambient temperature. For a good supply of water to plants, it is necessary to irrigate in such a way that the water reaches the depth of the roots.

If the depth of the roots, for example, of cucumber seedlings is 3 cm, then water 3 liters of water per 1 m. - 85%. Adequate humidity on warm days is maintained by spraying inside the greenhouse. Air humidity above 85% contributes to the appearance of drop-liquid moisture on plants, which is favorable for the development of fungal diseases.

Seedling nutrition.

Weakly growing seedlings of cucumber in greenhouses are fed every 8-10 days. For this purpose, the following solutions are used: 1) for 10 liters of water, add one tablespoon of organic fertilizers "Fertility", or "Breadwinner", or liquid "Ideal", or sodium or potassium humate, or "Agricola-forward", spending from 2 to 3 liters per 1 m, or 0.5 cups per pot; 2) the second dressing can be prepared from mineral fertilizers: for 10 liters of water - 1 teaspoon of nitrophoska, 1 teaspoon of Kemira-Lux or Agricola-vegeta.

Or add 1 teaspoon of urea, potassium sulfate, superphosphate to 10 liters of water. Consumption is from 2 to 3 liters per 1 m. The first top dressing is done in the phase of 1-2 permanent leaves.

When planting seedlings in a permanent place, plants should have 5-6 permanent leaves, 1-2 tendrils, a thick stem and a well-developed root system. Before planting seedlings, moisturizing watering is done, holes are made with a depth corresponding to the size of the pot, and they are watered with a solution of organic fertilizer "Barrier" E tablespoons per 10 liters of warm (30 ° C) water), spending 0.5 liters per hole.

Seedlings are planted vertically, falling asleep only in a soil pot. If the seedlings are a little stretched out, then the stalk to the cotyledon leaves can be covered with a mixture of peat and sawdust 1: 1, or pure peat, or universal living soil.

Seedlings are planted at a distance of 50 - 60 cm from each other. For better lighting it is planted in a checkerboard pattern. Seedlings are planted vertically, only the pot falls asleep.

Caring for plants in protected ground has its own characteristics, mainly due to microclimate regulation, ventilation, watering, fertilizing, processing, shaping and harvesting. When the plants have 8 - 9 permanent leaves, they are tied with polyethylene twine to the wire.

The plant is formed into one stem, which, as mentioned above, reaches a length of 1.5 to 2 m, while the side shoots in the lower 3-4 nodes (in the axil of the first lower leaves) are completely plucked (blinded) at the very beginning of their formation. The remaining side shoots coming from the axils of the leaves (for gardeners) are left 20 to 50 cm long and pinch the tops. The main stem reaches the wire, and as it grows, it is thrown over both rows of wire and pinched.

Watering and spraying.

Humidity during the growing season summer period maintain up to 90 - 95% (especially on hot days), it is maintained by spraying. Watering is carried out in the greenhouse in the morning. On cloudy days, water less often, 1-2 times a week, on sunny days, water 2 to 3 times.

The amount of water is consumed depending on the phase of the plant and depending on the weather. Before flowering, 5-6 liters are watered, during flowering 8-10 liters, during fruiting - 12-18 liters per 1 m2.

The temperature in the greenhouse should be 21 - 25°C during the day, 17 - 19°C at night (the difference between day and night temperatures should be no more than 4 - 6°C). Too high a temperature (above 30°C) causes stretching and weakening of the plants.

Therefore, cucumbers grown in greenhouses at high temperatures require intensive ventilation, it is enough to open the windows, doors, or, if the greenhouse is film, lift the film along one of the longitudinal sides. Shading - this operation is recommended, and sometimes simply necessary, when the illumination is too high and the temperature in the greenhouse, despite ventilation, rises immediately after planting or caring for the plants.

This requires diffused light. In this case, spraying with a weak aqueous solution of chalk is used from the outside of the greenhouse. The temperature of the soil during the development of plants should be 20 - 22 ° C. The beds are always kept clean of weeds.

In the first 2 - 3 weeks, when the plants are still small, loosening is carried out very carefully to a depth of 2 - 3 cm so as not to damage the roots. In the future, loosening is carried out depending on how irrigation water will pass into the soil.

If the water does not pass well during irrigation, then this means that the soil is compacted. Then, with a pitchfork, punctures are made between the rows of plants to the depth of the horns, 4-5 punctures per 1 m. With such loosening root system is not violated.

Studies have shown that plants develop more intensively and yields increase with an increase in carbon dioxide in the air. Its content can be increased by laying out pieces of dry ice in the greenhouse or by placing a barrel of dung mash.

Manure, decomposing, releases carbon dioxide directly into the air. The chatterbox must be stirred regularly, accelerating the fermentation process. Cucumbers are capricious plants.

Therefore, when growing and caring for cucumbers, protected ground is most often used - a greenhouse or greenhouse. Under these conditions, it is possible to provide the necessary temperature and humidity for favorable growth crops and a rich harvest.

Experienced gardeners practice planting cucumbers in open ground, and many of them achieve excellent results. Familiarize yourself with the technology of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse and in the open air to choose the best one for your needs. suburban area way.

Growing seedlings of cucumbers in a greenhouse or greenhouse

When growing cucumbers in greenhouses and hotbeds on biofuel, seedlings are planted in the first half of April. When growing cucumbers in solar-heated greenhouses and in trenches, planting dates are shifted to the first decade of May. Soil preparation.

Preparations begin in the fall. The soil is disinfected with a solution of bleach. 40 g of lime are dissolved in 12 liters of water, insisted for 2 hours and filtered.

In spring, the soil is shed with boiling water with the addition of potassium permanganate (3 g of a substance per 10 liters of water). If cucumber seedlings are grown under a film, then it must be periodically removed so that insects can pollinate the flowers. Otherwise, you will not get a good harvest.

Sowing seeds. When growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, only germinated seeds are sown. They are placed with a two-line tape. Grooves 4-6 cm deep are drawn on the bed at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other.

The grooves are watered with warm water and seeds are laid in them every 4-5 cm. From above, the grooves are covered with a 2-3 cm layer of soil and mulched with peat. After the formation of the first true leaf, the seedlings are thinned out.

Between the bushes of early ripening varieties they maintain a distance of 10-15 cm, between mid- and late-ripening - 15-25 cm. Transplanting. Seedling bushes are distributed at the rate of 3-4 plants per 1 m2.

Cucumbers are usually planted with a two-line ribbon. Between rows leave 15-20 cm, between plants in a row - 10-15 cm. The holes are placed in a checkerboard pattern.

In the garden, a hole is formed a little more than the height of the peat pot in which the seedlings grow. The bush is lowered into the hole directly from peat pot. After planting, the cotyledon leaves of the cucumber should be located at soil level.

Caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse and greenhouse

Temperature regime. On sunny days, when caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse, the temperature is maintained at 25-30°C, on cloudy days - 20-22°C. Watering. Before fruiting, cucumbers are watered every 2-3 days, with the onset of fruiting, they switch to daily watering.

When watering cucumbers in a greenhouse, the water temperature should be 20-25 ° C. On sunny days, the required air humidity is 85-95%, on cloudy days - 75-80%. To achieve this, water the side paths of the greenhouse and the central passage. After watering, the greenhouse or greenhouse is ventilated. Loosening.

At the initial stage, cucumbers are loosened after each watering. But after the plants grow to half the row spacing, loosening is stopped. Fertilizer and top dressing.

The first time cucumbers are fed 7-10 days after thinning seedlings or planting seedlings. When feeding cucumbers in a greenhouse, 10 g of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium salt are diluted per 10 liters of water. This dose is enough for 10-15 bushes.

After 15 days, re-feeding is carried out, doubling the amount of fertilizer. During the fruiting period, cucumbers are fed 1-2 more times with mineral fertilizers. 15-20 g of urea or 20-25 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate and 40-50 g of superphosphate are added per 1 m2.

In addition, 0.5 g of magnesium sulfate and copper sulfate are added to the fertilizer solution. In order for the cucumber to form faster female flowers it needs a lot of carbon dioxide. Therefore, when caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse, it is recommended to cover the plants with mullein.

However, fertilizer should not come into contact with the plant itself, as it can cause a burn. Formation of bushes.

In protected ground, it is recommended to grow cucumbers on trellises up to 2 m high. In order not to damage the lash, it is tied to the trellis with a double slip knot. The length of the main lash should be 0.5-3 m. The growth of the stem is limited by pinching the apical shoot when the lash reaches the top of the trellis.

Pinching is done over the 2nd-3rd leaf behind the last fruit. In the phase of the 6th-8th leaf, all flowers are in the first 2-3 axils and the shoots are pinched at the beginning of formation. In the axils of the next 4-5 knots, lateral shoots are pinched onto one leaf and one ovary. If few ovaries form on the bushes after harvesting, then it is necessary to feed, and at night to ensure ventilation of the greenhouse and reduce the air temperature in it to 18 ° WITH.

If a lot of ovaries are formed, but they do not grow well, then feeding with mullein is necessary. With the growth of bushes and weak flowering, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are used.

Agrotechnics for planting and growing cucumbers in the open field

The agrotechnics of cucumbers in the open field dictates different rules for planting seedlings - the dates are shifted until the beginning of summer. Site selection. Cucumbers are planted in well-lit and heated areas, protected from the wind.

It is good if there is a reservoir near the garden with cucumbers. For growing cucumbers in open ground in middle lane under these plants allocate the southern slopes. In the southern regions, on the contrary, they cannot be planted on the southern slopes.

Cucumbers do not grow well in the hollow and in areas with a high level of groundwater. If the soil is waterlogged, arrange beds with a height of 30-40 cm or more. Wind protection. To protect from the wind, rock plants are sown: beans and vegetable peas.

Their seeds are planted in late April - early May, with a three-line tape with a row spacing of 22-25 cm. Two tapes are sown at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other in heavily blown areas. So that the crops do not fall, they are tied to trellises. Soil preparation.

Preparations begin in the fall. In the garden allotted for cucumbers, they dig a trench up to 70 cm wide and 25 cm deep. A second one is dug in the center of the first trench, 30 cm deep. A 15-centimeter layer of grass, leaves, scrap, sawdust and peat is laid on its bottom.

In this form, the bed is left until spring. At the beginning of May, a 25-cm layer of manure is laid in the trench and the bed is poured with boiling water with the addition of 3 g of potassium permanganate per 10 liters of water.

A 20-centimeter layer of fertile soil is laid on top. Experienced gardeners recommend planting dill or basil along the path in the garden with cucumbers, as these plants repel aphids from cucumber bushes. Dill is removed from the ground when it reaches a height of 15-20 cm.

The seeds can be planted again at this place. Then, up to 5-6 kg of humus is applied per 1 m2 of area, liter jar wood ash, a handful of lime, 10 g of potassium salt and 20 g of superphosphate. The nutrient mixture is stirred and poured over with a hot pink solution of potassium permanganate.

After that, the bed is immediately covered with a film to keep warm. Preparing seeds for sowing. Use 2-3 year old seeds.

In the middle lane and more northern regions sow dry seeds. When sown in warm soil, the seeds are soaked and germinated in wet sawdust, moss or sand at a temperature of 20-30 ° C. Germinated seeds are those that have formed a root half the length of the seed. For reliability, a mixture of dry and germinated seeds is usually sown.

Under favorable conditions, seedlings will be plentiful. In the event of frost, the germinated seeds will die, but with the establishment of warm weather, dry ones will sprout. Sowing seeds. Seeds are sown when the soil at a depth of 6-10 cm warms up to 16-18°C.

Sowing is carried out along or across the beds. In both cases, two furrows are drawn with a depth of 6-8 cm at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other. The seeds are laid out in grooves in increments of 2-3 cm, after which they are sprinkled with a 2-3 cm layer of soil and the same layer of peat.

Seeds are sown on the ridges in one row. Cucumbers can be sown in squares. The bed is divided into squares measuring 80 x 80 or 90 x 90 cm for early varieties and 100 x 100 or 120 x 120 cm for late ones.

At the intersection of the grooves, holes are formed with a depth of 10-15 cm, 2-3 kg of manure or peat mixed with a pinch of complex mineral fertilizers are laid in them, then they are thoroughly mixed with the soil. 5-6 seeds are planted in each hole.

After the emergence of seedlings, two of the most developed are left. The rest are removed, but not pulled out, but pinched off. An early harvest of cucumbers in the open field can be obtained on warm beds.

Such beds rise above the soil, are better illuminated, rich in organic matter. To create them, an embankment is made of straw, sawdust, cut branches, leaves and other organic raw materials with a height of 50 cm and a width of 80-90 cm. Art. l. nitrophoska, 1 tsp copper sulfate, 1 kg of mullein and 10 liters of water.

For every 1 m2 of beds, 5-6 liters of the resulting fertilizer are poured. Then from above it is evenly sprinkled with ash or dolomite flour. A furrow 40-50 cm wide and 15 cm deep is made along the length of the beds.

Soil is poured into it from a mixture of soil, peat and humus. Then the bed is watered with a solution of 1 tbsp. l. nitrophoska, 1 tsp copper sulfate and 10 liters of water at a temperature of 50 ° C (4-5 liters per 1 m2). After 1-2 weeks, in early or mid-May, you can plant seeds or seedlings of cucumbers, and cover them with foil at night.

Cucumber care in the open field: watering and top dressing

When watering cucumbers in open ground, warm water is used. Watering frequency - 2-3 times a week. Loosening. It is carried out in the same way as when growing in protected ground.

Before the growth of the lashes, loosening is also carried out after each rain. Fertilizer and top dressing of cucumbers in open ground is carried out according to the same scheme as when grown in protected ground. Formation of bushes.

In open ground, cucumbers are grown in spreading, evenly distributing the growing stems over the garden, or tied up on trellises. Pinching is usually not done.

When grown in spreading, the lashes are pinned to the soil between rows with a bast or twigs bent with a fork. Frost protection.

When caring for cucumbers in the open field, portable shelters made of cardboard, lutrasil or other synthetic material are used to protect against prolonged cold snaps and frosts. In the mornings, it is recommended to spray cucumbers from a watering can with a shower head with warm, clean, settled water. This is necessary to wash off dew containing harmful substances from plants. chemical substances. Such spraying is especially useful in areas with unfavorable ecological conditions.

Harvest and storage conditions for cucumbers

Harvesting cucumbers begins within 1-1.5 months after germination. At first, the fruits are removed every 2-3 days, and during the period of mass fruiting - every 1-2 days.

Picking cucumbers is carried out in the morning or in the evening. It is impossible to overexpose the cucumbers on the bush: if they turn yellow or turn white, they will become tasteless, and the skin of the ovens will coarsen. Be sure to look for and remove ugly, diseased and overgrown fruits, as they slow down the formation of new ovaries. in no case should you shift from place to place or turn the whips. This leads to a decrease in yield, and in the worst case, to the death of the lashes. Cucumbers are not plucked, but cut the stalk with a knife or break it by pressing the thumbnail. To store the cucumbers, they are put in a plastic bag and, without closing it, put in the refrigerator.

In this form, they can lie for 2 weeks. The same amount of cucumbers can be stored at room temperature if each fruit is wrapped in thin polyethylene. Fresh cucumbers can be stored in a jar of horseradish. The fruits are washed with warm boiled water and dry on a towel.

The horseradish root is cut into small pieces and placed on the bottom of the jar with a layer of about 2 cm. Cucumbers are also laid there and covered with a plastic lid, previously soaked for several minutes in boiling water.

A necessary condition for storing cucumbers is to provide a cool, dark place. For longer storage, cucumbers are placed dry, without prior washing, in plastic bags and a piece of horseradish root or a peeled garlic clove is added to them so that putrefactive bacteria do not develop. The package is tied up and placed in the refrigerator. Ground cucumbers with a dense skin are kept fresh at low temperatures longer than hothouse ones that ripen quickly.

How to form cucumbers in a greenhouse scheme

Tomatoes are considered one of the most popular vegetables, so it is difficult to find a garden that does not have them. However, not every owner can boast of a generous harvest and large fruits. The main part of the problem of growing tomatoes is non-compliance with the rules of agricultural technology.

To get a rich harvest, you need to take care of the plants properly, because in order to grow a vegetable in different regions Not all varieties are suitable.

Many amateur gardeners believe that all care for tomato beds is watering and weeding. In fact, with such meager attention, even the most prolific and disease-resistant hybrids will not give high yields. Let's try to understand in more detail the generally accepted rules for growing tomatoes.

Agrotechnics for growing tomatoes consists of the following points:

• selection of seeds (in particular varieties) - certain varieties of tomatoes are suitable for each region;
• preparation of seed for planting (soaking to disinfect and stimulate growth);
• creating conditions for growing seedlings (lighting, temperature, watering, top dressing);
• picking seedlings;
• choosing a place for a bed and preparing the soil;
• transplanting seedlings into beds;
• watering;
• fertilizer application;
• disease prevention;
• weeding and loosening the soil;
• the formation of bushes and pinching, garter of tall plants ( even if the tomato is undersized, these rules should not be deviated from);
• harvesting.

The choice of seeds and varieties of tomatoes is one of the first stages of agricultural technology

In addition to the main steps, apply side events contributing to the better development of culture:

• mulching beds;
• treatment of seedlings with growth stimulants;
• construction of a temporary shelter to protect against spring frosts (made of film or agrofibre);
• planting in the neighborhood of crops that drive away pests.

To adhere to the regimen of plant care, experienced gardeners make an action plan at the beginning of the season.

What kind of soil do tomatoes like

tomatoes can grow on almost any soil, the question is the amount of preparatory work.

The best cultivation results are noted on nutritious loose soils with good moisture and breathability. Such qualities are possessed, for example, by loams. The medium should be neutral or slightly acidic, but not acidic.

Before boarding you need check the pH level using laboratory tests or litmus paper. If the indicator exceeds the value of 5.5-6.5, then treatment should be carried out to adjust the acidity. To do this, dolomite flour or crushed lime is sprayed on the surface of the soil, which is then gently mixed with a rake with the ground.

The soil for tomatoes should be fertile, enriched with potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus, iron, zinc and other trace elements.

When fertilizing at the stage of preparation, places for planting seedlings are used as organic fertilizers, and complex mineral. However, it is worth considering that do not get carried away with nutrient mixtures, you can burn out young shoots or provoke intensive growth of greenery to the detriment of fruit formation.

When choosing a place for a tomato garden, you need to consider what crops were grown on it last season.

Predecessors can deplete the soil so much that it is unlikely to get large tomato fruits. The same applies to the crop rotation rule, planting crops in the same area is not recommended.

How to prepare soil for tomatoes

Depending on the degree of nutritional value of the soil and its structure, best options fertilizers.

in the greenhouse

To get rid of possible pests in greenhouse soil- needs to be disinfected

To prepare the soil in the greenhouse should be in the fall. For a start it's worth get rid of all plant debris, pests and pathogens successfully hibernate with it.

To obtain biohumus, it is recommended immediately after harvesting plant green manure(e.g. mustard). By winter, they will grow up, and they can be cut. It will be possible to evaluate the results of labor in the spring, the soil will be improved, cleared of weed grass and enriched with nutrients.

If outbreaks of diseases were noticed during the season, then the soil will need to be changed. To do this, a 20-30 cm layer is completely removed and taken out of the greenhouse. All surfaces of the structure must be treated with fungicides. Additionally, a sulfur checker is used.

A new layer of healthy soil should be enrich with manure, compost or complex mineral fertilizers. Best Cast greenhouse soil mixes include the following components:

• fertile garden soil;
• peat;
• river coarse sand;
• compost;
• rotted manure.

In the spring, the surfaces of the greenhouse must be cleaned again, and treat with a special solution(for example, Baikal-EM) for disinfection, and pour boiling water over the bed to warm the earth.

2 weeks before planting seedlings, superphosphate (30 g), ammonium nitrate (20 g) and potassium sulfate (15 g) are introduced into the soil. Fresh manure is not used in spring, it provokes the growth of tops, slowing down the formation of fruits.

To get an early harvest, they equip warm beds. With this technique, the landing dates are shifted 2-4 weeks earlier.

In the open field

A bed in the open field is also prepared in the fall. For this it should remove all plant debris and dig up the ground with the depth of immersion of the tool on the spade bayonet. Simultaneously with digging introduce organic matter(compost, manure) at the rate of 6-8 kg per 1 m2.

In the spring, the bed is dug up again and 1-2 weeks before planting seedlings treated with a hot solution of copper sulphate(for disinfection). So that the soil does not cool down, it is covered with a film before planting the seedlings.

During planting, a nutrient mixture is poured into each well: humus, compost, peat, wood ash.

How to grow tomatoes for a good harvest

fertilizers

During the growing season, tomatoes must feed several times, then you can significantly increase the yield.

In the open field the first portion is administered a week after planting the seedlings. For this, a solution of 10 liters of water is more suitable, Art. l. nitrophoska and 500 ml of liquid mullein. Each bush consumes about 0.5 liters.

The second time complementary foods are introduced during the flowering period. At this stage, a solution of 10 liters of water, 500 ml of liquid chicken manure, st. l. superphosphate, tsp potassium sulfate.

After 10 days, the plant can be fed with a solution based on Agricola Vegeta or Signor Tomato. After another 10-14 days, the beds are enriched with a product based on 10 liters of water, 1 tbsp. l. potassium humate (or sodium).

in the greenhouse the first top dressing is brought into the holes when planting seedlings, the hole is filled with compost, humus and wood ash.

The second portion of the nutrient mixture is introduced after 2-3 weeks. Fertilizers are bred in the Bucket of water: nitrogen (25 gr.), Potassium (15 gr.), Phosphorus (40 gr.). Under each bush pour 1 liter of working solution.

The next dressing is applied during the period of mass flowering. Of the nutrient mixtures, a composition based on water (10 l), liquid mullein (500 ml) and potassium sulfate (15 g) is suitable. Under each bush, 1-1.5 liters of liquid is poured.

Subsequent procedures are carried out at intervals of 10-14 days (nitrophoska, potassium humate and other means are used).

Bush formation

In order for the plant not to waste energy in vain, it is recommended to form bushes in 1, 2, 3 stems.

The main stem comes from the root, from it below there are leaves, in the axils of which stepchildren are formed. Thanks to them, the plant branches, taking over most nutrients.

The whole process proceeds to the detriment of the formation of ovaries and fruits due to lack of nutrition. So stepchildren must be removed every 5 days, and form a tomato with a certain number of stems.

This procedure is performed regardless of the place where the crop is grown, whether it is open ground or a greenhouse.

Proper watering

Irrigation in open beds is carried out 1-2 times a week. In hot dry weather, the regularity of watering increases up to 3-4 times. However, the degree of soil moisture is considered a decisive factor. The increased moisture content provokes the development of fungal infections, so you should not get carried away with irrigation.

In the greenhouse, watering rates are regulated depending on the humidity of the air and soil. As a rule, procedures are carried out using drip or underground system glaze.

Loosening and mulching

To enrich the soil with oxygen and prevent the formation of a crust in greenhouses and open ground, loosening is carried out, which is often combined with weeding.

The first procedure is carried out after the first watering with immersion in the ground to a depth of 8-10 cm. Subsequent loosening provides for a deepening of 3-4 cm. 3-4 times per season, but until the moment of growth of the bushes. After full formation, extra passages between plants can injure them.

In the greenhouse, the first loosening is also carried out after watering. Subsequent procedures are every 2 weeks until the lines close.

To retain moisture in the soil, tomato beds are mulched with dry straw, sawdust or peat.

The thickness of the layer should be within 6-7cm(after the material sits down). The following are also used as mulch: burlap, newsprint, chopped tree bark, cut grass in dried form, etc.

The secrets of growing tomatoes and getting a rich harvest of fruits

Everyone experienced gardener owns secrets that guarantee high yield even under adverse weather conditions. Among the effective and interesting tips are the following.

• To increase the yield during the flowering period of the second and third brush, it is recommended spray the plant with a solution based on boric acid (weak concentration). Boron promotes pollen germination, ovary formation and fruiting.
• Most tomatoes are self-pollinating. But at adverse conditions the pollination process is carried out poorly, so the plant will not interfere with human help. To do this, you need a little shake the bush at intervals of 1 time in 3-6 days.
• Mulching beds with tomatoes prevents the drying of the earth, the formation of a crust on the surface of the soil. In addition, mulch reduces the growth rate of weeds - the main enemy vegetable crops.
• Autumn soil preparation provides an increase in yield if compost, manure in combination with peat are used as fertilizers.
• Pasynkovanie for many gardeners remains an undeveloped event, so not everyone can get fruits with the characteristics described on the seed label. Removing useless shoots redirects the flow of nutrition and energy to the formation of large tomatoes. In addition, they have time to ripen before the end of the season.

In general, agricultural technology is not complicated, although it has some features, but it is quite possible to increase the yield. After gaining experience in growing tomatoes, you can reasonably make your own adjustments and developments in the care rules, and then share them with them on the forums.

Many regions of our country are not so favorable in terms of their climatic conditions to be able to grow such heat-loving plants as cucumbers on open ground. Therefore, the best option is a film greenhouse.

Each harvest must be accompanied by the removal of all ugly and diseased ovaries.

Agrotechnics for growing cucumbers allows you to get a high-quality result of fruiting.

You can not only for yourself, but also for commercial purposes. In order for the harvest to please you with its abundance, you must follow certain rules, they are quite simple, but will require more time and attention, and the final result will largely depend on your desire.

Soil preparation and greenhouses

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied only in spring.

First of all, inside the greenhouse should be carried out preparatory work. The soil and the base of the greenhouse itself must be disinfected - in the spring on a bucket hot water add 3 g of manganese, and in the fall treat with a solution of infused bleach. It will be enough to dissolve 40 g in several liters of clean water in order to avoid possible infections and diseases in the future. It is always necessary to carry out preventive maintenance of the soil and plants - both before planting in the ground, and in the process of growth, and even more so after harvesting.

In the spring, as soon as the weather clears up, the greenhouse should be covered with a film and the soil inside should be allowed to “ripen”. When the soil has already warmed up enough, you need to make ridges, about 20 cm high, longitudinal or transverse - it all depends on the size of each particular greenhouse. In a standard greenhouse, there are usually 2 ridges, 4 planting rows and a path. Seedling stems are planted in each planting row 30 cm apart. With a denser planting, the plants will not have enough nutrition and lighting, so they will grow weak.

At a height of 2 m above the rows, vertical trellises must be installed, plants will be tied to them with the help of twine. When the plant reaches the top of the trellis, a pinch is made on the main shoot at the level of the second or third leaf of the stem. In the future, in order to accelerate the fruiting of cucumbers, pinching should be done at the level of 4-5 leaves.

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Planting cucumbers in a greenhouse

Before planting seedlings, the wells are watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Cucumber seedlings for a greenhouse can be grown both in a house on a warm windowsill, and in a specially prepared greenhouse with heating. involves maintaining a constant temperature in the greenhouse without significant fluctuations. This is extremely important in the process of shoot growth, and sudden temperature changes in different time days can affect the normal development of plant fruits.

Seedlings should be planted in unheated greenhouses no earlier than the second week in May. Planted at over early dates plants may well suffer from frost, this should be taken into account and always have improvised means for warming the greenhouse.

When the soil is prepared, holes are made in the beds according to the seating pattern. Before each well, you need to spill warm water with a small amount of manganese. Seedlings are placed in the holes in such a way that top part the coma was 1-2 cm above the ground level. The roots of the plants should not touch the ground, but they should be planted firmly enough so that the water does not wash them out during irrigation. It is quite acceptable in the greenhouse in the form of seeds, but this will somewhat delay the beginning of their fruiting.

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Cucumber farming and care

Growing an abundant crop depends largely on proper care. And the care itself includes the formation of a bush, top dressing, watering and regular pinching.

After planting, after about 3-4 days, the plants must be tied to the trellis. Cucumbers should be formed in one stem, as they grow, you need to carefully twist it along the twine without damaging the shoots. It is desirable to tie cucumbers on a trellis with a double slip knot so as not to damage the plant. Their branching and growth can be controlled by pinching.

To form right bush in greenhouse varieties of cucumber, you need to pinch the top of the main stem when it outgrows the trellis by about 20-30 cm. The lower shoots on the stem must be pinched off, because they pull all the nutrition onto themselves, slowing down the growth of the whole plant. On subsequent lateral shoots, one fruit should be left above the first leaf. In the middle part of the stem, 2 fruits can already be left above the second leaf, and 3 fruits can already be left above the third leaf.

In the future, you can not adhere to such a system, you just have to make sure that the shoots do not go into the aisles, so if necessary, pinch off their heads and direct them inside the row. At the same time, tendrils, yellowing leaves and barren shoots should be removed with a sharp knife.

It is necessary to organize regular non-through ventilation in the greenhouse, while not allowing the air to dry out, because dry air creates favorable conditions for the appearance and reproduction of spider mites.

It is also necessary to ensure free access of bees to the greenhouse. This is especially important when growing hybrids and bee pollinated varieties. In hot summer, bees can be attracted to the greenhouse with sugar syrup.

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Agrotechnics of cucumbers: proper watering

Cold water used for irrigation leads to downy mildew disease.

It should always be moist, but not too much, since both a lack and an excess of moisture are very harmful to cucumbers. As a result - yellowing of the leaves, weak ovary, deformed fruits and low yield. To grow healthy plants, you need to create the best conditions, and the organization of sprinkling will help in this.

In the heat, cucumbers should be watered almost every day, taking about 8 to 10 liters of non-cold water per 1 m² of beds, and watered if necessary on cloudy days. best time for watering is considered early morning and late evening. Seedlings should be moderately watered before flowering, and when the first ovaries appear, increase watering. So that the soil in the beds is less compacted and the roots are not exposed, in without fail put the sprinkler on either the spout of the watering can or on the hose you are watering. Watering cucumbers at the very root is undesirable; it is better to make even grooves next to the bushes and pour water over them. Water for irrigation should be similar to the air temperature in the greenhouse.

At the beginning of ripening, the cucumber crop should be harvested 1-3 times a week, and when their massive growth begins, at least every day, if possible. If you rarely harvest fruits, the overall yield will noticeably decrease.

To speed up fruiting, at the very beginning, short-term drying of the soil should be applied, that is, before watering, it is necessary to check the condition of the soil in the greenhouse. It is better to harvest in the morning, when the cucumbers are strong and tight. You need to cut them carefully at the junction with the stalk, trying not to damage the whip.

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Feeding cucumbers in a greenhouse

Fertilizing cucumbers with ash increases yield and increases disease resistance.

As a rule, in the first weeks, plants planted in the ground do not need special feeding, nitrogen supplementation will be enough. During the period of growth before flowering, phosphorus supplementation will not be superfluous. Cucumbers begin to actively absorb nutrients in the flowering and fruiting phase, so their first top dressing should be carried out about a month after planting, so that there is a supply of nutrients in the soil. During this period, nitrogen-potassium fertilizers are suitable. In the future, you can do top dressing at a frequency suitable for you.

Fertilizing should be carried out in the evening, after fertilizing, the plants should be watered with plain water, and sprinkled under the roots fertile soil. Cucumber seedlings absorb nutrients much more efficiently when watered with liquid fertilizers. Suitable organic fertilizers such as manure, cow or bird droppings. Agricultural experts also advise combining organics with mineral fertilizers. You need to take 5 g of saltpeter, 5 g of potassium salt and 10 g of superphosphate per bucket of water and pour 0.5 liters of solution under each bush.

You can increase the productivity of cucumbers by increasing the amount of carbon dioxide in the air. To do this, put a barrel in the greenhouse, half filled with fresh manure and filled to the brim with water. Next, you need to allow the manure in the barrel to ferment, stirring its contents every day. This fermentation saturates the air of the greenhouse with everything necessary, and then the slurry can be used as top dressing, not forgetting to dilute it with water in the right proportions.

As another nutritional supplement, you can pour a solution under each plant at the rate of 1 liter of mullein per bucket of water and 20 g of urea before flowering. The same solution can also be used after the start of flowering with the addition of 40 g of superphosphate.

From time to time, external top dressing should also be done when the lower leaves are sprayed. You will need a solution for which you need to take 2 g of manganese, boric acid and copper sulfate per bucket of water.

Remember that after each watering or top dressing, the soil should be loosened shallowly, and if the roots protrude outward, fill the soil with fresh nutrient mixture. During the season, the soil is fertilized on average 2-3 times with a small layer.

Any top dressing should be carried out with caution: in cloudy weather - in the morning, and in sunny weather - in the late afternoon. It is advisable to use special sprayers that give the smallest spray.

By the way, foliar top dressing can be carried out simultaneously against greenhouse pests and plant diseases.

Harvesting a rich harvest from each plant planted on the site - the main objective any gardener. The yield of a cultivated plant directly depends on the satisfaction of its basic needs. Without sufficient lighting, moisture, nutrition, a properly chosen landing site and acceptable climatic conditions it is almost impossible to ensure a good yield. The most difficult thing to solve the task is for summer residents who appear in the garden from time to time. In this case, experts consider growing vegetables in polycarbonate greenhouses the best way out.

How to prepare a polycarbonate greenhouse

Growing vegetable crops in greenhouses ensures the supply of fresh tomatoes and cucumbers, sweet peppers, herbs, onions, cauliflower to the table all year round. The crop size increases if vegetables are grown and cared for in polycarbonate greenhouses. In the list of advantages of the material:

• excellent light transmission ability;
• the possibility of expansion and contraction, depending on the air temperature outside the greenhouse;
• high strength;
• good thermal insulation.

After the installation of the structure, the owner can only prepare the room.

Lighting and ventilation

How to properly prepare and where to start growing vegetables in a polycarbonate greenhouse? First of all, the owner of the greenhouse must take care of sufficient lighting, check the possibility of regular ventilation of the room. Well-functioning sunroofs, especially if the owners want to grow tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse, guarantee the good health of the plants. Tree branches that form unwanted shading that reduces yields are removed.

Arrangement of the greenhouse inside

The next step is the interior work:

• Shelves are installed inside the greenhouse if the greenhouse is shelved. For their manufacture, wood, plastic and even reinforced concrete are used. The height of the shelves is no more than 80 cm, the distance between them is from 70 cm. In soil greenhouses, beds are equipped with a width of 60 to 90 cm each. They are placed along the greenhouse. Additionally, you will need trellises made of wire and twine. For growing in a greenhouse different types cultures, the installation of mobile partitions is necessary.
• The next step is the disinfection of the building. Walls must be washed thoroughly. For this purpose, any non-abrasive detergent and plain water will do. Washing is carried out one and a half to two weeks before planting seedlings.

Soil preparation

The next step is soil preparation. It should be carried out only after choosing the crops that are planned to be grown. For example, the simultaneous cultivation of cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse is not recommended, since their requirements for growth conditions are diametrically opposed.

The soil will also have to be disinfected. Do it regardless of its origin. The soil purchased at the store, as well as the soil taken at the site, is steamed and treated with a warm solution of potassium permanganate, providing protection against diseases (especially destructive for late blight cucumbers and tomatoes) and pests.

Questions of mixed landings

Any professional greenhouse business provides each crop with an isolated space. Such placement takes into account the peculiarities of growing vegetables in a greenhouse:

• Cucumbers prefer a temperature regime of 26 to 28 degrees.
• For cucumber beds, one of the main enemies is a draft, although regular ventilation is necessary.
• Growing a tomato in a greenhouse requires temperature regime 24 to 25 degrees during the day. A few degrees higher - and tomato pollen turns into sterile dust.
• The rules of agricultural technology for growing tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse include the mandatory provision of room ventilation. Tomatoes are not at all afraid of drafts. Moreover, plants even need a moderate draft for a successful pollination process.
• Cucumbers in a greenhouse need almost one hundred percent humidity.
• Tomatoes prefer moisture less than 70%. If the indicators are higher, then you can say goodbye to the tomato crop.

The only item adopted by the cucumber and tomato company is the night air temperature. Both cultures cannot stand indicators less than 19 degrees. Otherwise, especially if the owners grow vegetables in polycarbonate greenhouses in winter, neither cucumber nor tomato is going to give in to each other.

Zoning

Unlike professional farms that grow vegetables all year round, hobbyists cannot afford to place several greenhouses on the site at once to meet the needs of each crop and increase the profitability of "production". We have to be content with a single design and reconcile cucumbers with tomatoes.

Growing cucumbers and tomatoes in one greenhouse without diseases, pests and poor harvest will be provided by special partitions. Doors can be made in partitions, which will simplify the process of caring for plants. Productivity will be lower, but in conditions of lack of space, such a compromise option is the most acceptable.

cucumbers

Work on growing cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse traditionally begins with disinfecting the premises and preparing the soil for planting. Borrowing soil from a neighboring site or leaving the soil on which the greenhouse is located unchanged is not the best way out. Especially if you plan to grow cucumbers for sale.

Soil for greenhouse cucumbers

The main requirements that the soil intended for cucumbers must meet:

• have a high fertility rate;
• it is good to absorb moisture and pass air;
• be practically neutral (the maximum acidity is 6.5).

For cucumbers grown in greenhouse conditions, the most delicious is soddy soil. Mixed with fresh humus (2 buckets of humus from manure per 1 square meter is enough or 4 buckets of leaf humus for the same area), it will not only increase the nutritional value of the soil, but also fluff it up.

Another option is a substrate formed by peat, sawdust from coniferous wood, field soil and humus. The proportions of the components in the substrate are the same. Additionally, the soil is enriched with superphosphate, potassium sulfate and ammonium nitrate.

In addition to its main purpose, soil prepared for growing cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse can serve as an additional source of heat. The secrets of economical owners lie in the use of ordinary manure. Manure is poured in a layer under the main soil. The resulting fermentation products provide additional heating of the soil. Such natural way heating is good if you cultivate cucumbers all year round. A winter greenhouse requires a lot of energy to maintain the temperature regime necessary for vegetables. The cost of the crop is too high. So ordinary manure is a good opportunity to save money.

Soil disinfection

Experienced gardeners do not start growing cucumbers in a greenhouse without first digging the soil and disinfecting it. The composition for disinfection is prepared from copper sulfate. The concentration of the solution is 7%.

You can also use bleach, although its use inside the greenhouse is associated with a number of consequences in the form of irritation of the skin and respiratory tract, high share risk of fire on contact with organic substances.

The room should not be used for growing vegetables all year round. To decrease negative impact, soil disinfection in the greenhouse is carried out only in the fall. If you add lime to the soil in the spring, then plant growth will be inhibited. The bleach is embedded into the soil (maximum soil layer thickness 20 cm) using a rake. The required amount is 200 g per 1 square meter of beds.

Variety selection

Agrotechnics for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse differs from agricultural technology in the open field. Most varieties can not be grown in greenhouse conditions. So that the efforts made are not in vain, you will need cucumbers specially bred for a polycarbonate greenhouse or other structures of the same type. It is necessary to choose a suitable variety of cucumbers, guided by the following parameters:

1. Climate. If the cultivation of greenhouse cucumbers is launched as a business, cold-resistant varieties are most suitable for a region with a harsh climate.
2. Pollination, pinching, pruning. The technology for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse provides for manual pollination of some varieties with large fruits. If there is no desire to play the role of a bee, you can purchase seeds of self-pollinating varieties. Some hybrids also do without mandatory pruning and pinching.
3. Undemanding to lighting. good harvest give shade-tolerant varieties with long fruits, intended for early landing with extended fruiting.

Growing seedlings of cucumbers and sowing seeds

Planting cucumbers is done in two ways. The first method is seedlings, the second is by seeds, directly into the prepared soil. Seedlings are used if you want to get a crop of early cucumbers.

To obtain cucumber seedlings, boxes filled with soil mixture or special pots are used. Suitable pots with a diameter of 8 cm from peat-humus or humus-earth mixture. Two seeds are sown in each of them. Sowing time - at least a month before planting in the main soil. You can transplant ready-made seedlings of cucumbers for a greenhouse directly in pots, deepening into the soil 8 cm below the top edge. Moving seedlings of cucumbers grown in boxes is carried out carefully, keeping a clod of earth on the roots.

The second method does not require additional transplantation efforts. However, crops need a certain temperature regime:

• Before the appearance of sprouts, the required temperature is from 25 to 28 ° C.
• Early seedlings are kept at a temperature of 20 to 22°C during the day and 17°C at night.
• Five-day seedlings need a night temperature of no higher than 20 degrees.

Soaking the seeds for 12 hours helps speed up the ripening of fruits. But if the soil is not warm enough, there will be no seedlings. The seeds will start to rot.

Further care for cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse consists in regular loosening of beds between rows, watering, pest control, treatment and timely feeding of plantings.

Tomatoes

Tomato bushes planted in a greenhouse are no less demanding on placement conditions than cucumbers. The yield, in addition to the temperature regime, ventilation and other mandatory care actions, also depends on the density of the plants. The optimal layout for planting tomatoes in a 3x6 polycarbonate greenhouse on two or three beds, with the organization of one or two longitudinal passages. Closer to the wall, undersized and dwarf tomato varieties are planted.

Soil for garden beds

To successfully grow tomatoes in a greenhouse, work should begin with soil preparation. Mixtures are prepared from the main soil and special additives:

• Loam or clay. To each square meter such soil requires enrichment with peat, humus and sawdust (a bucket of each component).
• Peat soil. Enriched with sawdust, humus, soddy soil (you will need a bucket of each component) and coarse sand (half a bucket is enough).

Ready soil for a tomato is dug up. Simultaneously with digging, sodium nitrate 1 tsp, superphosphate (double granular) 3 tbsp are mixed into the soil. l., wood ash 2 cups. It is good to add a tablespoon of potassium sulfate and potassium magnesia. Before placing tomato seedlings on the bed, the soil is watered with a warm solution of potassium permanganate (water 10 l, potassium permanganate 1 g). Each well accounts for one and a half liters of solution.

Variety selection

Growing a tomato successfully in a polycarbonate greenhouse depends on smart choices suitable varieties tomatoes. For cultivation in greenhouse conditions are offered determinant varieties, stopping the growth of the main stem after the appearance of five brushes. Harvest such tomatoes give early. Indeterminate ones require special bush formation, continuing to grow throughout the year. But their harvest is excellent - about fifty brushes.

Standard tomatoes with a strong stem and low growth do not require special formation, tying and pinching. Super-determinant and semi-determinant varieties are also suitable for greenhouses.

Growing seedlings of tomatoes

To get viable tomato seedlings, experienced gardeners recommend:

1. Soak the seeds in a solution of hydrogen peroxide (3 ml per 100 g of water).
2. Place seeds between two layers wet tissue and place in a container with air access.
3. Pour the drainage layer and the soil taken from the greenhouse bed under the tomatoes into the cups.
4. Pour the soil with warm water 6 hours before planting. Cover the glasses with foil.
5. Sprouted seeds are planted at a depth of 5 mm.

Additional lighting and top dressing can be organized, guided by the condition of the plants. Picking and pinching the roots is also not necessary, since the tomatoes are not afraid of the transplant process. Ready seedlings are planted on the beds, starting to water only two weeks after planting.

Tomato Care

Tomatoes grown in a greenhouse must be provided with:

• optimal temperature regime;
• support for bushes (trellis);
• assistance in pollination (after shaking the brushes, the greenhouse is watered and ventilated);
• removal of stepchildren up to 5 cm long;
• removal of leaves located below the set fruits (no more than two pieces in one approach);
• moderate watering every 6 days;
• top dressing every 10 days, starting from the moment the first ovary appears.

No matter how many types of vegetable crops are chosen for growing in a greenhouse, the effort for preparing the room, planting and cultivating plants will be much less than when growing the same plants outdoors. Compliance with the recommendations received from professional vegetable growers and experienced amateur gardeners provides a significant increase in the chances of achieving the desired result. The result is a stable profit for business vegetable growers and fresh vegetables for family table almost all year round.