INSTRUCTIONS AND PROPHECIES OF THE Blessed MOTHER ALIPIA GOLOSEEVSKY, Kyiv...
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You will not find hydrangea in a bouquet. The reason for this is appearance. The flower is so beautiful that it is a pity to pluck it from the bush. It happens that the plant refuses to bloom. This is of great concern to gardeners and beauty lovers. Why hydrangeas do not bloom, read the article.
The genus of this plant includes up to eighty species. Hydrangea has another name - hydrangea, which in Latin means "a vessel with water." The birthplace of the flower is the Land of the Rising Sun.
Hydrangea is a shrub up to sixty centimeters tall. Some garden views This deciduous ornamental plant has high frost resistance. The texture of large dark green leaves is rough, the edges are serrated. The flowers are white, red, blue and are collected in huge inflorescences of spherical or conical shape. Stunningly beautiful plant!
When purchasing flowers, you should carefully examine the seedlings so that in the future there is no question of why hydrangeas do not bloom. If they have buds, then they were stimulated for flowering. They were watered by drip method with the addition of fertilizer to the water. Such plants, if you purchase them, will not bloom for a couple of years, or even die altogether. After planting a seedling in the ground, it is not recommended to drastically change the usual growing conditions. The plant needs to adapt, take root. To do this, for two months with a frequency of two weeks, fertilizers must be applied to the soil. This will teach the roots to independently extract food from the ground.
Why don't hydrangeas bloom? This may be due to a poorly developed root system. In order for the seedlings to grow it quickly and bloom profusely in the future, it is necessary to mix the soil of the garden with the substrate during planting, the amount of which should not greatly change the structure of the soil.
This flower has many varieties. So, for example, large-leaved garden hydrangea can grow on the site for many years, please the eye with the shape of the bush, the color of the leaves, but not bloom. Young tree-like and paniculate hydrangeas also do not bloom, as they do not have enough strength for this or they are given unsuitable conditions for growth. But it rarely happens, don't worry. Why is the hydrangea not blooming in the garden? There are many reasons, consider some of them using the example of a large-leaved hydrangea:
This culture tolerates winter time of the year. But why does the hydrangea not bloom in the garden in the spring, after the frosty period? The solution to this issue may depend on how well and correctly the hydrangea is protected from low temperatures. The most important thing is to protect the tops of the shoots from freezing. And for this, take care already in September, covering the shrub with lutrasil or film, since there are always frosts at the end of the month. But it is too early to hide the flower for the winter.
Many housewives are interested in the question of why room hydrangea does not bloom. To get her to do this, you need to provide the right care. To do this, you need to determine the hydrangea in a bright room, which is always ventilated, but so that the sun's rays do not directly fall on the leaves.
The flower prefers acidic soil, which should always be moist, this is the most important thing for hydrangeas. Therefore, it must be systematically watered and sprayed from above. In the spring it is good to take the plant to Fresh air, and pluck half the length of the shoots appearing from the root, leaving only the strongest ones.
There is an opinion that White color hydrangeas are easy to change to another by applying a special solution. This is not entirely true. Varieties of white hydrangeas are not able to change color. This is only possible with large-leaved hydrangea, which can change color if high acidity of the soil is provided. But even if a bluish tint appears on the flowers, it will be washed out and dirty-pale.
It should be remembered that the plant can bloom with uncircumcised shoots. But paniculate or when pruning branches gives stronger shoots. But large-leaved is better not to cut. You need to know that it forms inflorescences at the top of the shoots. Of course, they can be cut in the spring. They will also produce strong side shoots but will not bloom. It is better to rejuvenate the bush by removing thick and damaged branches.
Hydrangea is one of the most unpretentious plants, which even novice gardeners can grow. If you care why is the hydrangea not blooming, but gives only foliage, we will help to sort out this issue. There are several types of hydrangea, each of which has its own characteristics. With our advice, you can achieve abundant flowering this plant and decorate your site.
Annabelle - the most common type of hydrangea, which is distinguished by large fluffy flowers and grows up to 2 meters.
Paniculata hydrangea tolerates cold well and grows up to 5 meters. Flowers can be red, cream and yellowish.
Indoor hydrangea is considered one of the most capricious and at the same time the most beautiful flowers. It is able to change color, depending on the composition of the soil.
If you want to decorate the arch in the garden, choose a climbing hydrangea. Keep in mind that this species does not tolerate cold well.
If the hydrangea does not produce flowers, but only goes into foliage, it is necessary to determine the reasons why. Although this shrub is unpretentious, it must be properly cut in the spring. Particular attention should be paid to watering, lighting and fertilizer. If you do not feed the soil, then there will be only foliage, not lush flowers. It is important that the plant develops a good root system, otherwise it will be weak and not bloom.
indoor hydrangea
One of the most common reasons why hydrangeas don't bloom and only produce foliage is that vendors may have used flowering stimulants that may keep the plant from blooming for several more years. If your hydrangea does not bloom, but gives only foliage, think about whether it has frozen over in winter. You may need to cover the bush if it is very cold in your area.
Also read: How to grow lobelia in the country
After you have figured out the reasons why the hydrangea bush does not bloom, proceed to proper care for her. In any case, flowering can be restored, so do not worry.
It is very important to carry out timely feeding of the plant. This should be done on average about 4 times a year, in spring and summer period. In early spring start with organic fertilizers, which will stimulate the growth and flowering of hydrangeas. During the period of active growth of buds, one more top dressing should be carried out, adding, in addition to organic fertilizers, urea and potassium salts. In the summer, apply mineral fertilizers, and then special mixtures for hydrangeas.
When caring for hydrangeas, you need to monitor the humidity of the air. If it is too dry, spray the leaves. Take Special attention watering, as the plant loves wet soil. Hydrangea grows best on clay soils and badly - on sandy ones. If the pH of the earth is acidic, then add sawdust and needles to the soil before planting hydrangeas.
Now you know what to do if the hydrangea does not bloom, but only leaves. With your own hands, you can grow lush flowering bushes and transform your own plot.
Hydrangeas or garden hydrangeas are amazingly beautiful and lush flowering plants that look very impressive on summer cottages, flower beds. These beauties can reach a height of up to one and a half meters! Both a single hydrangea and a composition of several bushes in the garden will always delight with magnificent inflorescences. different colors.
This is favored not only by the variety of shades of spherical and corymbose inflorescences, but also by the shape of the flowers themselves. In the center of the flower ball are female flowers, and larger and brighter male flowers, which consist of four or five enlarged sepals, adorn the edges. In addition, this plant can be not only a shrub, but also a small tree, and even a liana. The possibilities for site design with hydrangeas are endless!
Usually, the flowering period of hydrangea lasts from late spring to early autumn. But sometimes gardeners who planted this plant a few years ago do not wait for the appearance of inflorescences. It happens that the hydrangea does not bloom well, and why is not known.
Reasons for the lack of flowering
Before looking for reasons why garden hydrangea does not bloom, and deciding what to do, you need to know about some features of the species. So, tree and paniculate hydrangeas are very demanding on the conditions of detention. In addition, young plants will not form inflorescences until they gain strength, but this lasts for years. More interesting: It is difficult to say exactly what year after planting the hydrangea blooms, because the quality of the soil, the level of lighting, and the regularity of watering matter.
In most cases, this plant does not bloom due to the fact that its root system is not yet sufficiently developed. If you have purchased flowering bush, landed it on the site, and the flowering gradually faded to "no", do not be surprised. Unscrupulous sellers often use growth stimulants to make hydrangeas bloom. As a rule, for another two years after such a forced flowering, the plants do not produce inflorescences, gaining strength.
The second reason is improper pruning of plants. Old varieties of large-leaved garden hydrangeas produce inflorescences at the top of shoots that grew last year. If you have not bothered to cover the bush for the winter from frost and prepare for the winter, then these shoots will have to be removed due to freezing. More interesting: It is quite natural that during the flowering season your hydrangea will not please with lush inflorescences. Moreover, it will not bloom for the next few years.
Pruning shoots should be done at the end of October. At the same time, several pairs of young buds are left on the shoots. In the spring, these young shoots are shortened again so that the flowering is more lush.
Garden hydrangea buds are laid in autumn. If at the beginning of spring, when they begin to wake up, frost hits, they will freeze. hydrangea how many blooms It is not recommended to remove the shelter from the bush until the air temperature at night is set at -5 and above degrees.
The homeland of hydrangeas is middle Asia where the climate differs from the domestic one. When buying a plant in stores, pay attention to varieties that are well acclimatized for our natural conditions. The fact is that the heat-loving hydrangea may simply not have time to lay new flower buds in our short summer, and therefore will not bloom next year.
By providing garden hydrangeas with proper care, you will get an excellent decoration in the garden, and fragrant lush inflorescences will delight the eye for a long time. Let your hydrangea bloom as much as you wish!
Very often we have questions why this or that plant does not live up to our expectations, our task is to analyze this topic in as much detail as possible.
Why is the hydrangea not blooming? Do flower growers know such secrets of care?
But in fact, not so much and you need to know that this wonderful flower would decorate your yard or garden. The only question is whether you are ready to spend a little of your time and energy in order to learn these tricks or still decide to leave it to others.
First of all, you will need to decide on the type of this wonderful flower, since a lot in the life of a plant depends on your climate. In addition, you need to remember that proper pruning contributes to the development of the flower and vice versa. And lastly, the hydrangea flower is very delicate and often gets sick, so get ready for strict observance a number of rules. Read on for more details on all this and more.
There can be many reasons why hydrangea does not bloom. garden beauty capricious. To grow this magnificent flower on your site and enjoy its flowering, you need to make some efforts.
Hydrangea feels uncomfortable in open places, being under the scorching rays of the sun all day. The tender leaves of many varieties in the heat sag lifelessly and burn.
In a sunny place, the plant will be saved by an underestimated landing. The trunk circle of the bush should be 10 cm below ground level. It must be mulched with coarse-fiber peat or sawdust to the surface of the earth. Under such conditions, the plant can develop and bloom normally.
In hot and sunny regions, it is better to grow panicle hydrangea. With regular moisture, it will withstand direct sunlight all daylight hours without compromising flowering.
In deep shade, under the crowns of large trees, hydrangea is unlikely to please with a lush color. The perennial does not develop well with strong shading, regardless of which variety is planted. If flowers appear, they will be sparse and underdeveloped.
All varieties of plants prefer places where the sun's rays fall only before lunch. In such conditions, hydrangea blooms especially brightly, magnificently and for a long time.
If the place for the shrub is chosen unsuccessfully and it is not possible to correct the situation, you need to transplant it. This should be done only as a last resort, since the plant does not tolerate transplantation well. The most suitable time for transplantation is autumn. At this time, the perennial is at rest.
Moisture is the main feature of hydrangea. The shrub has the botanical name Hydrangea. Translated from Greek, "hydrangea" means "vessel of water." With a lack of moisture, the plant stops flowering. Its roots must always be kept moist. Do not allow the earthen coma to dry out near the roots. If the weather is dry, the hydrangea may die without watering.
In cool weather, it is enough to water the flower once a week. On hot and dry days, watering should be done every 3 days. A young plant also needs additional moisture until it is 1 year old.
If the soil is clayey, water less frequently. Water will stagnate in heavy soil. With an excess of moisture, hydrangea can reduce or stop flowering. An abundance of water leads to rotting of the roots and death of the plant. Heavier than others, the accumulation of moisture near the roots of the oak-leaved hydrangea tolerates. It only needs well-drained soil. To prevent water from accumulating in clay soil, pine bark must be added to it.
In the garden, among large and powerful hydrangea trees, moisture will not be enough. Tree roots will take water from the flower. Even if the roots of the trees are removed when planting a perennial, they will grow in a year.
Very often after planting a healthy flowering plant in open ground, it loses its decorative qualities and stops flowering. A sharp deterioration in the condition of the flower is due to the lack of the usual dressings.
Sellers of hydrangeas often abuse fertilizers and overfeed plants, achieving lush flowering and rapid growth. Getting into natural conditions, a flowering bush begins to hurt.
He is not able to independently absorb the necessary substances from the soil. Such a plant may die if emergency measures are not taken.
In the first year, you need to regularly feed hydrangeas, gradually reducing the dosage. It is important to create a plant ideal conditions in the first months after transplantation, preventing drying and stagnation of water in the root zone. When the hydrangea gets stronger, it will begin to develop and bloom.
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Hydrangea does not respond well to excess fertilizer in the soil. It is especially harmful to apply nitrogen fertilizers to the soil in summer and early autumn.
They are used to enhance the growth of green mass and do not contribute to flowering. BUT fast growth shoots in the fall leads to the fact that they do not have time to ripen for the cold and freeze.
Proper feeding of the plant is carried out several times a season.
With the help of top dressing, you can change the color of the spherical flowers of the shrub. Blue shades will give a solution of water and alum (ammonia or potassium), and lime will increase the pink tones.
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To protect the hydrangea from severe frosts, in the fall they begin to prepare it for winter. In areas with a warm climate, it will be enough to cut off the inflorescences and wrap the bush with agrofibre, and where the temperature drops below 25 degrees in winter, it is necessary to make a more reliable shelter.
Old inflorescences are cut off, the branches are bent to the ground and covered with peat, earth or sawdust. To do this, the bush is fenced with boards to make a box - branches are laid in it. In order not to bend them too much, dry grass or leaves are first placed on the ground, and branches are laid on this pillow. From above, the box is also boarded up with boards; after a heavy snowfall, it is additionally insulated with snow.
In the spring, with the onset of heat, the entire structure is removed, the plant is rejuvenated by pruning. In the case of spring frosts, which are so frequent in Russia, the bush must be covered with agrofiber - if the flower buds that have just begun to develop freeze slightly, the plant will not bloom this year.
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If the buds of future flowers are removed during autumn pruning, the plant will not bloom in due time.
Pruning hydrangeas should be done only when necessary. Young plants should not be touched until they begin to bloom. The first flowers appear on the perennial in 2-3 years. Panicled hydrangeas can bloom only for 6 years.
In autumn, most varieties of hydrangeas can be left uncut. Spring pruning is best done at a later date, when frost damage to the shrub is visible. Remove dead buds, shoots and broken branches.
To enhance flowering, last year's shoots must be shortened, leaving 1-3 strong pairs of buds. One pair is left on a thin shoot, and several inflorescences will fully develop on a thick shoot.
Large-leaved hydrangea blooms from the upper buds of last year's shoots. Therefore, it is important to keep the tops of young shoots that did not bloom last year. The lower buds on the shoots rarely bloom. Old shoots that are more than 4-6 years old do not produce flowers, so they must be removed.
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It’s worth saying right away that the lion’s share of hydrangea diseases is transferred through seedlings. Therefore, you should buy hydrangea seedlings only in reliable nurseries, and when propagating hydrangeas with cuttings, be sure that the parent plant is healthy. Most often, hydrangea diseases occur when high humidity air, especially with a strong density of plantings.
Another group of hydrangea diseases occurs due to a lack of certain substances, first of all it is chlorosis, which manifests itself as yellowing of hydrangea leaves. Let's start our review with it.
Hydrangea chlorosis occurs due to metabolic disorders in the plant. It is experiencing iron deficiency, as a result of which the leaves of hydrangeas turn yellow, brighten, and the veins on the leaves remain dark. If you try to ignore this disease of hydrangeas, over time the plant will weaken and lose its beauty.
Most often, the leaves of hydrangeas growing on soils rich in lime and overfed with humus turn yellow. But what if the leaves of hydrangeas have already turned yellow?
For a faster recovery of the bush, it is recommended spraying hydrangeas preparations Agricol, iron chelate, antichlorosis, ferovit, ferrilen, micro Fe, brexil. In especially advanced cases of hydrangea chlorosis, these drugs should be applied under the root.
Another option - hydrangea treatment for chlorosis with a solution potassium nitrate (40 grams of potassium nitrate per bucket of water) and iron sulfate(iron vitriol) in the same concentration. After 2-3 waterings with saltpeter, wait three days and pour over with a solution of ferrous sulfate.
Do not be alarmed - in fact, hydrangeas are rarely affected by fungal diseases. But it is better to be prepared for unpleasant surprises. Universal remedy for fungal diseases of hydrangeas, treatment with copper oxychloride (HOM) is the most suitable fungicide for hydrangeas.
Hydrangea white rot treatment: for fungal diseases of hydrangeas, phytosporin showed high efficiency. Other fungicides may also be used.
Gray rot
Another dangerous disease hydrangeas, in which the tissues of the plant become watery, soft. In dry weather, the dead tissue dries up, falls out, and holes remain in the leaves and on the stem. In wet weather, the fungus spreads very quickly, all infected areas are covered with "gray wool". Gray rot is difficult to exterminate, since this disease is characteristic of almost everyone. garden plants.
Treatment of gray mold of hydrangeas: dead parts of hydrangeas must be removed. The results are obtained by processing hydrangeas with Chistotsvet, Skorom, Fundazol.
This hydrangea disease manifests itself in the form of oily, over time and darkening spots on the stems and leaves. Fungal disease actively develops with high humidity and a temperature of 18-20 degrees.
Treatment of downy mildew of plants: the plant is treated with a solution of soapy water and copper sulfate (15 grams of vitriol and 150 grams of soap per bucket of water). This treatment of hydrangeas will help in the early stages of the disease. You can treat hydrangea with fungicides.
Powdery mildew treatment: hydrangea is sprayed with fungicides - Alirin-B, Fitosporin-M. If the hydrangea disease has severely affected the plant, Chistotsvet, Thiovit Jet, Topaz, Skor, Strobi, Cumulus can be used.
Treatment of septoria hydrangeas: treatment with copper-containing preparations - copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, etc.
Among other common fungal diseases of hydrangeas - common cancer, tracheomycosis wilt, cortical necrosis, phyllostic and ascochitous spotting. In general, the treatment of hydrangeas for fungal diseases is carried out with fungicides. But fungal diseases are not the worst thing that can happen to hydrangeas.
Hydrangea ring spot The most frequently occurring Hydrangea ring spot is a viral disease of hydrangeas. Initially, blurry spots of necrosis in the form of rings appear on the leaves of hydrangeas, the leaves begin to wrinkle, become asymmetric. With a strong defeat by the ring spot, the plant cannot lay buds, or the flowers turn out to be small, weak.
Hydrangea ring spot treatment. Unfortunately this viral disease hydrangeas are not subject to treatment. You need to carefully monitor the quality of seedlings.
Snails love hydrangeas. Most often it is an ordinary amber or a grape snail. They especially like moist shady thickened plantings. Snails on hydrangeas eat buds, young shoots and leaves.
Snails pose a great danger to hydrangeas wintering under cover: mollusks burrow into the soil around the bush, and as soon as the temperature rises in spring, they get out of the ground and feed on the first buds and leaves. Near the hydrangea bush, you can see the clutches of snails.
How to get rid of snails on hydrangeas: in addition to the mechanical destruction of these mollusks and their clutches in spring and summer, metaldehyde or "Thunderstorm" can be used.
These poisonous preparations should not be placed directly on the ground - they clog the soil, and cease to act, mixing with the soil. Chemicals are poured into cups and laid out in a horizontal position around the bush.
If you notice that small yellow spots have appeared on the back of the hydrangea leaf, eventually merging into a marble pattern - this is the spider mite on the hydrangea. Over time, the affected leaf dries out and falls off. If these hydrangea pests have thoroughly populated the bush, you can see cobwebs with mites (with a small lesion, the spider mite is not visible to the naked eye), necrosis appears.
Treatment of hydrangea from Putin's mite: apply insectoacaracids and acaracids - thiophos, preparations Lightning, Akarin, Fitoverm, Vermitek. With a weak damage to the hydrangea by a spider mite, treatment with mineral oil or soap can help.
Settling on hydrangeas, the aphid sucks the juice from the plant, simultaneously polluting it with sugary secretions. They, in turn, serve as food for soot fungi. Aphids on hydrangeas are also dangerous because they can carry viruses. Aphids settle on the lower part of the leaf, with a strong lesion, the hydrangea may turn yellow, and the leaves will fall off.
Treatment of hydrangeas from aphids: with a weak lesion, you can try to simply wash off the pests of hydrangeas with soapy water. Insecticides - Tobacco dust, Spark, Bison, Antilin, Fitoverm, Aktara, Akarin, Tanrek, Commander and other means - are used for large-scale aphids.
This pest lives on the roots of hydrangeas. Microscopic worms - gall nematodes - form brown round swellings on the root, called galls. The galls rot, the roots die off, the hydrangeas do not receive nutrients. Most often, this pest of hydrangeas affects young bushes.
There are a lot of insects that can harm hydrangeas: bugs, pennitsy, leaf-eating pests (weevils, leaf beetle, caterpillars, scoops, deer, bronzovki, earwigs). However, for a healthy, strong plant and a caring owner, these pests are not particularly scary.
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Hydrangea may not bloom due to the whimsicalness of the variety. Not all types of flower shrubs, even with careful care, quickly adapt to a new climate. Sometimes from planting a seedling to the moment of flowering takes from five to seven years.
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Hydrangea- a separate genus of flowering plants belonging to the Hortensia family. The family is represented by small trees and shrubs. The genus includes up to 80 plant species, widely popular in Asia, Europe and America. Individual species, more adapted to the conditions of detention, are often found in China and Japan. Many varieties have gained popularity among domestic gardeners due to their unsurpassed appearance, durability and unpretentiousness.
Did you know? The plant was named after the beautiful princess Hortense, who was the sister of the prince of the Roman Empire.
Hydrangea macrophylla- tall ornamental shrub, the distinguishing feature of which is uncharacteristically big leaves. AT favorable conditions growth and with proper care can reach 2.5-3 meters in height. The inflorescences are round in shape and, depending on the type, can have a different color, ranging from pale blue to pink.
In general, caring for this type of flower comes down to soil care, regular watering and periodic fertilization, but creating conditions for the quality of the soil and the amount of sunlight is slightly difficult.
In view of this, earlier it was not necessary to talk about planting a large-leaved plant in our country. Fortunately, new, more adapted varieties of this ornamental species appear regularly.
Yes, hydrangea. garden variety Blaumais is a modern breakthrough in domestic horticulture, because due to the characteristics of the growth of a shrub, only gardeners with extensive experience could previously grow it correctly. With the breeding of such varieties, planting has been greatly simplified, and the demands of the plant for care have decreased.
Hydrangea large-leaved, winter-hardy varieties which prevail in the domestic market of ornamental plants, easily tolerates difficult climatic conditions and changeable weather. Best suited for landing in the middle lane of our country.
Important! Despite the relative winter hardiness of this species, immature and / or young shrubs do not tolerate severe frosts, so it is strongly recommended to cover the plant for the winter.
tree hydrangea- one of the most popular types of tall ornamental shrubs. This species is native to North America, where the shrub often grows over 4-5 meters (in Russian gardens it rarely exceeds 2-3 meters). The leaves of the species are large, opposite, saturated green. Inflorescences of spherical shape, reaching 20 cm in diameter, are formed at the top of annual shoots. The initial greenish color of the flowers eventually turns into a soft cream.
Individual varieties have a significant number of fertile inflorescences, but along with this, in Russian gardens one can often find shrubs with absolutely sterile inflorescences. Thus, the variety of adapted varieties of this species makes it possible to make a choice in favor of the shrub that will most harmoniously fit into the garden.
It is noteworthy that annual shoots of a flower, as a rule, do not have time to fully mature before autumn, therefore, in winter period frosted over.
However, to restore the bush, a small amount is enough. spring pruning and top dressing with mineral fertilizers. At the same time, annual flowering is guaranteed.
Due to the climatic conditions of our region in Russian gardens, it blooms one of the first (at the end of June) and continues to bloom until late autumn.
Due to their durability, unpretentiousness and adaptation, varieties of tree hydrangeas are best suited for the Moscow region. The most common variety within our state is Sterilis, which is characterized by large spherical inflorescences, consisting of frequent small flowers, reaching 1 cm in diameter.
Hydrangea arborescens usually has sterile flowers that provide profuse decorative blooms.
Paniculata hydrangea- a type of ornamental shrub or tree, reaching up to 5 meters in height. It got its name due to the special shape of the crown, leaf plate and inflorescences. In the wild, this plant is found in China, Japan, Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. At the same time, in natural environment habitat trees and bushes of the species often exceed 5-7 meters in height while maintaining proportions to the diameter of the crown.
In Russian gardens, this plant is rightfully one of the most ornamental plants, which, at one's own discretion, can be grown in one form or another (bush, single-stemmed and multi-stemmed tree).
The shoots are brown in color and quickly woody, which determines the resistance to difficult climatic conditions. Its leaves are oblong, arranged oppositely. Inflorescences are located on most young shoots, which guarantees abundant annual flowering.
The appearance of buds occurs at the end of June - the beginning of July, but their blooming proceeds slowly, which is why it blooms in full force only in August - September.
The inflorescences of this type of ornamental shrub are distinguished by a pyramidal shape and consist of a mixture of frequent sterile and fertile greenish flowers, which eventually acquire a delicate cream color.
In autumn, with sufficient sunlight inflorescences change color to pink, brick or pale purple.
This type of ornamental plant is very unpretentious and resistant even to the conditions of the north-west of our country.
Until recently, only a few were grown in Russian gardens. garden molds and varieties paniculate hydrangea, but thanks to the efforts of breeders, tree and paniculate hydrangeas regularly receive new varieties. Fortunately, almost every new representative of the species, even regardless of climatic conditions, is to some extent prepared for cultivation in the gardens of our country.
By far the most common variety this plant is Grandiflora, which is characterized by large dense inflorescences (the length of which, as a rule, reaches 30-35 cm), mainly consisting of sterile flowers.
Did you know? Hydrangea paniculata differs from others in its unusually long lifespan and long-term preservation of its decorative appearance. In one place, a shrub can grow for more than 40 years.
hydrangea oak-leaved- deciduous ornamental flowering shrub, reaching a height of up to one meter.
This species is distinguished by unusually large (up to 20 cm in length) 5-7-lobed leaf blades. Depending on the season, their color changes from dark green in summer to purple in autumn. The underside of the sheet is white tomentose. Outwardly, they are similar to an oak leaf.
hydrangea oak-leaved, whose winter hardiness is one of its advantages, sometimes needs seasonal shelter. As a rule, this applies to young or diseased shrubs. Moreover, before wintering, it is best to loosen the soil around by 15-20 cm. In this way, the root system of the plant can be effectively protected from freezing.
Important! The oak-leaved hydrangea is extremely moisture-loving, so it is necessary to ensure regular watering in sufficient volume (based on the size of the plant). Moreover, you should carefully look after the soil, loosening it and promptly clearing it of weeds.
Oakleaf hydrangeas, the varieties of which are optimally suited for growing in Russian gardens, are not very popular, but they fully deserve it thanks to the leaves that are completely unique for this shrub.
petiolate hydrangea- perennial ornamental plant, which is a flowering vine. It is because of this appearance that this species is also called curly.
Most commonly found in the wild Kuril Islands, Sakhalin, China and Japan, where it often reaches 20-25 meters in length.
Under growing conditions in Russian gardens, its size is significantly smaller. The flower is not only simply fixed on a support with the help of its aerial roots, but it can also creep along the ground, however, in this case the plant will not bloom.
The leaf plate of this species is wide, with a characteristic heart-shaped base. Inflorescences are loose umbrellas, reaching 20-25 cm in diameter. Their color (white-green, lilac, pink and others) depends on the variety.
petiolate view differs in high frost resistance, but in some cases (with especially severe frosts) it can slightly freeze. In view of this, young shoots in the first frosts are best removed from the support and covered for wintering under the snow.
We can safely say that it is to this species that the best varieties of hydrangeas for creating hedges belong. But along with this, she makes special demands on the conditions of detention, so the view in the vastness of our state is rare, but deserves attention.
Important!Petiole hydrangea is extremely whimsical to the quality and component composition of the soil. So, any insignificant deviation from the required conditions of detention can cause a disease of a plant or even its death.
serrate hydrangea- tree-like ornamental shrub, reaching a height of up to 1.5 meters. Is different lush crown large diameter and bright green oval-shaped leaves, pointed at the top. The serrate hydrangea shrub is classified as an annual.
This shrub blooms from late June to September, often surpassing other varieties of hydrangea in beauty. She easily bears possible transplants, even despite the quality of the planting soil, but throughout the entire period of growth and flowering prefers moderate watering.
For the correct and safe wintering of the shrub, it is necessary to cut off the withered inflorescences and cover with a dense film. In general, the plant is extremely unpretentious.
It is great for planting in garden plots in the middle lane of our state.
Did you know? Hydrangea serrata is fully adapted to the climatic conditions of our region, therefore it is almost never attacked. garden pests and diseases.
Hydrangea, whose species and varieties for Russian gardens are full of variety, invariably attracts domestic gardeners with its amazing beauty and unpretentiousness. It can be safely attributed to the number of the most popular types.
This type of shrub can reach up to 3 meters in height and is distinguished by an oval-lanceolate shape of leaf plates, pointed at the top. The external decorative appearance of the plant is provided by a multitude of sterile snow-white flowers, united in massive corymbs.
The flowering period falls on the middle of summer and lasts, as a rule, about a month. Ripening itself falls at the beginning of autumn (September).
Hydrangea radiata does not belong to winter-hardy species, and in winter its root system should be carefully protected with dry foliage or mounds.
The growth rate of such a plant is surprisingly high, and propagation by cuttings is simple and effective. It is in view of this that the plant is very often found in the design of landscape design in the southern regions of the country.
Ash hydrangea- ornamental shrub (deciduous), capable of reaching up to 2 meters in height. It is distinguished by a crown of large diameter, represented by leaves lowered from below and young shoots. The leaves of the plant have a wide elliptical shape and can reach sizes up to 15 centimeters. Fine teeth are evenly spaced along the edges of the leaf plates.
Inflorescences of corymbose form, as a rule, reach 15-20 centimeters in diameter and bloom in mid-summer (late June - early July).
She is without much difficulty endures the winter climate of our region, but young garden hydrangeas varieties have reduced winter hardiness, so they can slightly freeze slightly.
A shrub of this species, similar to a tree-like one, does not impose special requirements on the composition of the soil, its moisture content and fertility, which is why the ashy hydrangea can rightly be considered indispensable for planting as an ornamental hedge.
In your garden, you can also plant such shrubs: juniper, wild rose, felt cherry, heather, snowberry.
For this type flower, you can choose absolutely any place on the site, regardless of the constancy natural light, watering and soil acidity. At the same time, it retains its decorative properties throughout the entire vegetative period.
Based on all of the above, we can conclude that at present numerous types of garden hydrangea have been bred, which quite easily tolerate the climatic conditions of our region.
At the same time, their unsurpassed appearance tirelessly pleases the eye and creates amazing beauty on the garden plot, and winter-hardy varieties, which, by the way, are most common in our region, guarantee the plant's durability and vitality practically under any conditions.
This plant, combining the beauty of flowering and ease of care, can rightfully be considered the most the right choice for planting in your own backyard.
agronomy.com
botanical name hydrangeas – hydrangea- comes from two Greek words: hydor (which means "water") and angos (which translates as "vessel"). Thus, flowers are vessels with water.
If you look closely seed pods the flower really resembles the shape of a jug or flask. And the flower received the poetic name "hydrangea" in honor of Princess Hortensia, the sister of the prince of the Holy Roman Empire.
This flower belongs to the hydrangea family, which has more than a hundred species. The plant loves moist soil and a cool but not frosty climate.
Hydrangeas look especially impressive in the autumn, when young buds, flowering seed heads and multi-colored leaves coexist on the same bush.
One of the most beautiful legends, dedicated to a flower, originally from Japan. It says that hydrangea flowers appeared on Buddha's birthday. According to some sources, this happened in 473 BC. At the moment when the baby was born, suddenly rained down from the sky gorgeous flowers, and amacha nectar flowed with them.
The Japanese gave the flowers the name "aujisai". Even today, for Japanese Buddhists, aujisai is a sacred flower that is grown in temples.
A traditional tea called amacha is made from hydrangea leaves. It symbolizes divine nectar.
redroseflowers.ru
Hydrangea is often planted in suburban areas or in the front garden. own house: her bush blooms beautifully and for a long time. But sometimes it happens that the hydrangea refuses to bloom. Dealing with the reasons is not always easy, since there are quite a few of them.
As a rule, the first 2-3 years after planting a young seedling should not be expected to bloom from hydrangeas. Some varieties do not bloom even longer, but most are obliged to please the owner already in young age. If this does not happen, then action must be taken.
Hydrangea - tender plant, and under the scorching sun feels uncomfortable. If on open space it will bloom, the flowering will be inferior: it will end quickly, and the flowers will not be as lush and spectacular as expected. But planting a bush in the shade is not worth it either: hydrangeas need at least a few hours good lighting in a day.
If the shade is created by tall trees, they will deprive the flower of moisture and nutrients.
The best location is partial shade: in the morning the sun warmed, illuminated, and hid by lunchtime. If the mistake is in choosing a place, it is worth trying to build a shelter. If this is not possible, you will have to replant the bush, but this can only be done with young plants.
Hydrangea is often planted near a fence that covers the bush from the sun in the afternoon.
Hydrangea is a shrub that is not easy to grow: it takes a long time to adapt to a new place of residence. Therefore, at the slightest deviation from the rules of landing or leaving, it can “sick” for a long time, but then, as a rule, everything returns to normal. If in the same place the plant is accustomed to one mode of nutrition and watering, and the new owner has different conditions, the adaptation period may be delayed.
If this is the case, you have to wait, but not allow the plant to die, and for this it is better to feed it, gradually reducing the amount of fertilizer. And so that the change of place does not really introduce hydrangea into stress, it must be transplanted with a clod of earth.
For a hydrangea seedling with a closed root system, the likelihood of transplant stress is minimal
Drying out of the soil under the hydrangea bushes is unacceptable, as it reacts very painfully to this: leaves, shoots wither, and the bush is no longer up to flowering. A strong heat without watering a bush may not survive at all. Hydrangea is watered weekly in normal weather, and twice as often in drought. This is especially true for young plants.
Hydrangea is moisture-loving, it needs watering once or twice a week, depending on the weather.
However, stagnant water is also harmful, therefore, on clay soils, when planting in a pit, drainage is necessarily placed. For irrigation use water heated sunbeams. If you bring the humidity regime back to normal, next year the bush will be covered with beautiful flowers.
Adult hydrangeas are pruned annually, but this must be done correctly. Pruning begins only after the bush has given flowers for the first time. Act carefully when trimming:
In autumn, only broken, diseased and dried shoots are removed, and more detailed pruning is carried out in the spring. If the lack of flowering of the bush is observed due to improper pruning, the matter is fixable: once you need to do everything right, and the flowers will appear.
Even if you do not prune hydrangeas in the fall, you need to cut off at least faded inflorescences
Hydrangeas do not need excessive amounts of fertilizer. This is especially true of nitrogen, which causes an increase in green mass at the expense of flowering. Nitrogen supplements (urea or mullein infusion) are given only in May, they are excluded in summer, and only ash is added in autumn.
Various trace elements can even regulate the color of hydrangea flowers, but this is a separate issue.
On sale there are fertilizers for hydrangeas, depending on the color
If there is an assumption that the bushes were overfed with nitrogen, it is necessary to add more superphosphate, and forget about urea and manure for a while - until next year.
Even in warm regions, hydrangeas are prepared for winter. Shelter there can only serve as a spunbond, which covers the bush after autumn pruning. In other regions, it is necessary to hill plants, add a good layer of mulch and cover with coniferous spruce branches, and in the most severe climatic conditions- and ruberoid.
No matter how large the hydrangea bush is, for the winter it is covered with spunbond even in relatively warm regions
It is dangerous to leave a hydrangea without shelter, freezing of the soil can lead to the complete death of the root system. Partial freezing is fixable: good feeding and warming for the next winter will eventually return everything to normal.
Among the pests of hydrangeas, slugs, aphids and mites are most often annoyed. Slugs are best destroyed by hand, and the rest are eliminated with various insecticides. It is not difficult to deal with pests on the shrub, and it is necessary to do this, since they greatly weaken the plants.
Slugs on hydrangeas appear due to frequent rains and high humidity.
Among diseases, fungal diseases occur (gray rot, peronosporosis, powdery mildew), which are successfully treated with fungicides: copper oxychloride or Bordeaux liquid. Often affects hydrangea and chlorosis: due to iron deficiency, the leaves turn pale, flowering is difficult. Top dressing with iron sulphate corrects the situation over time.
There are many reasons why the hydrangea does not bloom, but most of them are easily eliminated. It is important to understand in time what caused the problem and take urgent measures so that flowers appear on the shrub next year.