Why garden hydrangea does not bloom. Why did the large-leaved hydrangea stop blooming

- beautiful, but capricious flower, which does not always live up to the expectations of flower growers, and does not always bloom in response to caring care. What is the reason for this phenomenon, why does indoor or garden hydrangea refuse to bloom, and what should be done to correct the situation? There are many answers to these questions, let's look at them together.

The right choice when buying

When buying a room or garden hydrangea you should pay attention to whether there are buds on the stems. If the answer is yes, then the sellers watered the hydrangeas with flowering stimulants, causing them to bloom to give " presentation". A young plant has already spent a lot of energy on the formation of buds, and after transplantation it may not bloom for two years, or it will not take root at all in a new place. What to do in this case? Transplant the bush into another pot or into open ground along with a clod of earth so that it adapts better in a new place. And after a period of adaptation, start feeding it with mineral fertilizers.

To answer the question: why the hydrangea does not bloom, you need to know what kind of plant you are buying. Some types of hydrangea young age cannot bloom, or bloom poorly, because they have not yet accumulated enough nutrients for a beautiful and lush flowering. After all, the inflorescences of most hydrangeas are large, the bush spends a lot of energy on them.

Such types of hydrangeas as garden large-leaved, tree-like and paniculate hydrangeas do not immediately bloom. The first 1-2 years after planting, they spend on the development of the root system, then the aerial part is strengthened, if both stages are successful, the plant will begin to bloom only in the third year.

And yet - for planting in open ground, choose zoned hydrangea varieties. If the summer in your area is too short, flower buds will not have time to form, and there will be no flowering.

Effect of pruning on flowering

Incorrect pruning is another factor that has a significant impact on the flowering of a garden or indoor hydrangea. In order not to wonder why the hydrangea does not bloom, it is necessary to cut it correctly. Moreover, the concept of "correct" for each type of hydrangea is individual.

So, in spring and autumn, only faded inflorescences are cut off so that they do not break under the weight of snow. If the hydrangea did not bloom in the summer, then it does not need to be cut at all.

In the spring, paniculate hydrangea is pruned before bud break, if you miss the pruning time, the development of the plant will be suspended so much that it will not bloom this season. When pruning, weak and small shoots are removed, as well as shoots frozen in severe frosts. Annual shoots are cut so that 3-4 pairs of buds remain on them.

Large-leaved hydrangea blooms only on last year's shoots, more precisely, on young branches grown on last year's shoots. And if you remove last year's shoots when pruning, there will be no flowering. pruning large-leaved hydrangea carried out only to remove damaged stems and last year's inflorescences.

Ground cover hydrangea blooms on young shoots this year. Its pruning consists in shortening too long young branches, due to which the bush becomes more branched and blooms more abundantly.

From this we can conclude: in order for the hydrangea to bloom, its pruning is carried out taking into account its species characteristics, otherwise you may never see it bloom at all. We must not forget that the hydrangea that grows in the wild blooms without any pruning, so at home you should not get too carried away with this operation.

Proper wintering

To protect the hydrangea from severe frosts, in the fall they begin to prepare it for winter. In areas with a warm climate, it will be enough to cut off the inflorescences and wrap the bush with agrofibre, and where the temperature drops below 25 degrees in winter, it is necessary to make a more reliable shelter.

Old inflorescences are cut off, the branches are bent to the ground and covered with peat, earth or sawdust. To do this, the bush is fenced with boards to make a box - branches are laid in it. In order not to bend them too much, dry grass or leaves are first placed on the ground, and branches are laid on this pillow. From above, the box is also boarded up with boards; after a heavy snowfall, it is additionally insulated with snow.

In the spring, with the onset of heat, the entire structure is removed, the plant is rejuvenated by pruning. In the case of spring frosts, which are so frequent in Russia, the bush must be covered with agrofiber - if the flower buds that have just begun to develop freeze slightly, the plant will not bloom this year.

The whims of a home flower

Sometimes indoor hydrangea does not bloom, growing in favorable conditions. What is the reason, and what to do in this case? Let's start from afar - in the fall indoor hydrangea can completely shed its leaves and retire. At this time, it is taken out to a dark, cool room, watering is reduced, spending them only so that the roots do not dry out and with the beginning of spring the plant begins to grow and bloom again.

At the end of winter, room hydrangea is taken out to a bright and warm room, they begin to water and feed well. In this case, you should not put a flower pot under the direct rays of the sun - hydrangea prefers coolness and diffused light. If the temperature in the room is too high, they try to create special conditions for the hydrangea - they remove it away from the window and heaters, often ventilate the room without exposing the flower to drafts. Hydrangea does not like sudden changes in temperature, this feature must also be taken into account.

Soon, new shoots will begin to grow from the roots, on which inflorescences will also form. If there are too many shoots, some of them are removed, leaving 3-4 of the strongest and largest. The remaining stems are fed with mineral fertilizers. good fertilizer for hydrangea is a dormant coffee, which is scattered on the surface of the soil in a pot.

Every 3-4 years, the hydrangea is transplanted to a new place, for this they make a soil mixture with an acidic reaction from peat, needles, leaf and sod land. You can use ready-made soil for azaleas by adding a little needles to it.

Blooming hydrangea is a real decoration of the garden landscape: with the help of this flower, you can make a picturesque and any original plot. However, sometimes gardeners are faced with the fact that bloom ornamental plant refuses. Why the hydrangea does not bloom, what the problem may be connected with and how to solve it - we learn from the article.

Most hydrangea varieties root system"Grows up" 2-3 years after planting: then flowering occurs. But there are varieties that take about 6 years for the roots to grow and develop. If the hydrangea does not bloom at all, the following reasons for this phenomenon are possible:

• wrong choice of variety;
• incorrectly chosen rooting site;
• adaptation period after planting / transplanting;
• insufficient watering;
• improper pruning - usually too radical;
• illiterate bush feeding;
• freezing of kidneys during the winter;
• damage by pests, diseases.

Variety selection

Today, scientists know about 70 species and varieties of plants. There are hydrangeas in the form of herbaceous low shrubs, there are tree-like varieties, creepers, evergreen and deciduous varieties. And although the choice is extensive, in our climate, many of the varieties grow normally in open ground will not work.

There is a fairly large part of hydrangeas that simply do not have time to bloom in a short summer. And if you have purchased just such a variety, you can never wait for flowering.

For our climate, only a limited part of the hydrangeas from all the diversity that exists is suitable. Well suited tree-like variety, ground cover and paniculate. These are the most unpretentious and hardy species, which can also bloom in the conditions of a short cool summer.

Poor choice of rooting site

When planning to plant a hydrangea in open ground, a place for it must be selected taking into account all specific requirements. So, the plant feels extremely uncomfortable in places completely open, especially under the scorching sun. In such conditions, if the hydrangea has bloomed, then this period will not last long: the delicate petals will simply burn out, fade and fall off.

If the site is all sunny, plant paniculate hydrangea: this species tolerates the sun better than others. However, do not forget about abundant regular moisture: only under this condition will the plant bloom well.

Planting a flower in a shady place is also not worth it. In the almost complete absence sunlight it is unlikely that large-leaved (and any other) hydrangea will please abundant flowering. AT this case the plant will also develop poorly.

Under shady crowns big trees planting hydrangea is therefore not worth it. In addition to the fact that the crown of neighboring trees will create a significant shadow, almost impenetrable by the sun's rays, the roots of powerful plants will also take away water.

The optimal landing site will be an area illuminated and heated by the sun in the afternoon. A hydrangea planted in such a place will please you with a particularly long, abundant flowering. Optimal lighting in this way is partial shade or diffused.

If the place is chosen incorrectly, and the flower has already taken root, there is nothing left to do but transplant it. However, first think about whether there is any other way to correct the situation: after all, the hydrangea does not tolerate transplantation very well.

Adaptation

Hydrangea hardly adapts to a new place, and therefore it is transplanted only in the most extreme cases. Often, the first time after planting, the shrub wilts, stops developing, its flowering either slows down or stops. In most cases, after a certain period, the flower adapts on its own, takes root, and continues the growing season at a normal pace.

If the hydrangea has drooped after being transplanted into open ground after purchase, most likely it is the lack of the usual abundant top dressing, which was supplied to the plant in the store / nursery. Often sellers overfeed a flower so that when selling it looks more beautiful and magnificent: it is natural that after getting into ordinary land, hydrangea wilts.

AT severe cases perhaps not only the absence of flowering, but also the death of the plant. In order to avoid these sad consequences, it is necessary to make the adaptation of the plant more comfortable. For this:

• do not cut the roots during transplantation and do not shake off the old substrate from them;
• mix the soil remaining in the store container with garden soil and pour into the hole.

The first time after planting, feed the flower more abundantly to facilitate the adaptation process. But gradually reduce the dosage: in this way, getting used to a normal diet will go unnoticed.

lack of moisture

Hydrangea is an extremely moisture-loving flower; it will not last long without water. Even its name is translated from ancient Greek as "a vessel with water." If there is not enough moisture, the hydrangea will refuse to bloom, and its leaves will wither and wither. The roots should always be moistened: their drying is unacceptable.

Let's say more: if the hydrangea is not watered during the dry season summer heat She may even die. You understand that in this case there can be no talk of flowering. Recommended watering frequency: once a week during normal weather and every three days during dry weather. Special attention we recommend giving a young hydrangea, which is not yet a year old: at this tender age, the plant is especially sensitive to a lack of logs.

If the soil contains a large number of clay, water less often. In a dense substrate, water often stagnates, which is also harmful to the plant, causing roots to rot.

Incorrect cropping

Hydrangea should be cut very carefully, understanding what and how to do. If at autumn pruning remove the rudiments of future buds, next season the flowering will either be less lush, or it will not happen at all.

Young hydrangeas are not pruned until the first flowering, and adults - only when necessary. AT autumn period far from all varieties and types of hydrangeas can be cut, and in the spring we recommend postponing the procedure to a later time so that the buds are not damaged by return frosts. If, in principle, the pruning of a perennial is neglected, the buds may not form at all;

The procedure requires experience and skills:

• it is necessary to thin out the bush - otherwise the inflorescences are crushed and become more rare;
• small branches growing inward require mandatory removal, since they do not bloom, but only thicken the crown;
• for abundant flowering, it is necessary to shorten last year's shoots, leaving no more than 1-3 healthy, strong buds on them;
• shoots older than 4-6 years no longer produce inflorescences, so they must be removed when pruning.

Important: if the shoot is strong and thick, you can leave three buds on it, if thin, weak - only one.

At spring pruning no need to remove the shoots of last year's distillation - strong and healthy. It is on them that the bulk of the inflorescences will be formed in the current season. In autumn, remove only dried buds or leaves, broken, damaged branches. Formative pruning after flowering is not necessary.

top dressing

Garden hydrangea reacts extremely negatively to overfeeding. Excess nitrogen in the soil causes particular harm to the flowering of the plant. This mineral is useful for the rapid growth of greenery, but negatively affects the formation of buds.

How to feed properly:

• at the end of spring, apply nitrogen for the fastest set of foliage and growth of young shoots;
• in summer, exclude nitrogen and use potassium-phosphate additives that activate the formation of flower buds;
• in autumn, focus on potassium, which will protect the roots of the plant from freezing in winter.

We recommend using urea as a nitrogen-containing preparation. It is best to dilute the preparation with water and potassium sulfate and apply in the spring. If there is no urea, slurry diluted with water (1:10) is also suitable. As a source of potassium and phosphorus, it is better to use mineral complexes.

Tip: when planting a plant in the ground from a store container after purchase, be sure to feed the flower with a root growth stimulator. This measure will help the plant to more easily adapt to a new place and take root.

Keep in mind that certain minerals can control the color of hydrangea buds. So, lime is useful if the hydrangea is pink: the flower petals will become brighter. The addition of alum will give the buds a blue tint.

Shelter for the winter

If the hydrangea is not properly prepared for winter, its buds and roots may freeze. Flowering in the next growing season, therefore, can not be seen. To avoid problems, in the fall, even before the cold weather, they begin to prepare the flower for winter. If the climate is relatively warm, it will be enough to trim the inflorescences, and then cover the shrub with agrofiber. If the winters in the region are frosty and long, the hydrangea should be covered more warmly and the roots must be spudded.

It is unacceptable to leave a flower without any shelter for the winter: freezing in this case can be critical, fatal. Even frost-resistant paniculate hydrangea should not remain unprotected: it is better to take preventive measures than to allow the roots to freeze.

Damage by pests and diseases

The reasons for the lack of flowering can also be associated with diseases, pest damage. Usually most of infections are transmitted through planting material. That is why hydrangea seedlings are best purchased from proven and reliable nurseries, and not from private traders on the market.

In addition, diseases often occur if the plant is kept in conditions high humidity. Although hydrangea is a lover of water, but excess moisture inevitably leads to the development of rot, the reproduction of fungus. The situation is exacerbated by the density of landings.

Chlorosis is one of the most common diseases affecting hydrangeas. Pathology manifests itself as yellowing of foliage, but in advanced cases it can lead to a lack of flowering. Chlorosis occurs due to metabolic disorders in plant tissues: this usually happens due to a lack of iron. To cure a flower, it is necessary to feed it with iron-containing fertilizers, spray it with the appropriate preparations. Such processing, although it gives an effect, is not instantaneous: you will have to wait for some time until the shrub acquires its usual color.

It can affect hydrangea and a harmful fungus: fortunately, this happens quite rarely. Usually, fungal diseases are associated with certain rots: root, stem. Prevention and treatment are based on the use of copper-containing preparations (for example, HOM).

For abundant flowering hydrangea is very important good development its root system. If the roots are weak, it is unlikely that in the near future it will be possible to enjoy beautiful bright buds. The longest roots form plants after planting and overfed with fertilizers.

Carefully select a place for planting, as in case of an incorrect choice, flowering will not be seen. Well, hydrangea transplant is extremely difficult.

You should not plant a flower under the roof of the house: in spring, falling snow or icicles can break its branches along with the embryonic buds. Thus, flowering will turn out to be much less abundant.

The area in the garden where the hydrangea is planted should have a fairly loose, permeable soil. Clay dense substrate in this case is not suitable: it must first be loosened with sand and peat.

If you are an inexperienced gardener, we advise you to start with the Grandiflora hydrangea variety. This variety has stood the test of time: its flowering is quite predictable, expected and, with proper care, is almost guaranteed. In addition, Grandiflora can be both paniculate and tree-like - choose any kind to taste.

When planting or transplanting, be careful with the rhizome of the plant. The hydrangea root is fragile and brittle: if it is damaged, the adaptation process will be greatly delayed. More significant harm is possible in the form of illness, death. Remove the bush from the ground only together with an earthen clod and support the latter from below.

It is necessary to water the flower regularly and quite plentifully. Particular attention should be paid to this procedure in the first year of the flower's life, as well as in conditions of severe summer drought. After watering and rains, we strongly recommend loosening the soil in the garden. Thus, the permeability of the soil will be restored, which is important for the flower. At the same time, there will be fewer weeds.

We learned why the hydrangea refuses to bloom and what to do about this problem. As you can see, the reasons are probably different: first you need to understand exactly what exactly caused the absence of buds in a particular case. And only then decide what action to take. Such an approach will yield positive results in the most shortest time, and will return the flowering to your pet.

Hydrangea - popular among gardeners decorative flower. It belongs to the category of capricious cultures. Errors in growing technology lead to a lack of flowers. There are several reasons why the plant does not bloom. It is important to diagnose them correctly, and then eliminate the negative factors.

Features of the cultivation of hydrangea

Grown in the form climbing liana, small tree or shrub. The plant has many varieties. A variety of shades and shapes allows you to create a unique decorative combination in the flower garden. It is necessary to understand why the hydrangea does not bloom in the spring, when they noticed the absence of buds.

Novice gardeners may encounter such a problem: they bought a ready-made flowering plant in the store, but at home it withered. It is not possible to achieve the appearance of new buds. The reason for this was most likely special means, which stimulate flowering, but greatly deplete the strength of the hydrangea. After treatment, the plant may not form new flowers for several more years.

Advice. In this case, you can help the culture by adding a growth activator.

If you purchase a young specimen and plant it yourself, then it can bloom in the first summer after breeding. However, without proper attention and care, you can be left without flowers even in the second season, if the stalk turned out to be weak and did not get stronger in the first year. And in this case, growth activators help. The drugs allow:

hydrangea bloom

• strengthen and develop the root system;
• form stems and branches;
• ensure green growth.

Feeding hydrangeas: the basis of full flowering

Proper hydrangea fertilizer technology will help grow a plant that can bloom normally. The first top dressing is needed for a flower immediately after it is planted - with a weak solution of organic fertilizer for good adaptation. In the process of growing fertilizers are applied according to a certain scheme.

In early spring, the crop needs a lot of nitrogen. This mix works well:

• urea - 1 tbsp. l.;
• potassium sulfate - 1 tbsp. l.;
• water - 10 l.

Attention! Watering is carried out at the rate of 5 liters per 1 bush.

An alternative is slurry diluted in water (1:10). Later, at the stage of bud formation, the plant is fed with mineral complexes with a high content of phosphorus and potassium. To further strengthen the bush, pour the root zone and the stem directly with a solution of potassium permanganate. The procedure must be repeated three times. In this case, there should not be situations when the hydrangea does not bloom.

In summer, the shrub must be treated with a complex strengthening agent for flowering crops. Nitrogen during this period should be used carefully. Its excess will lead to the strengthening of greenery and the inflorescences themselves, which will negatively affect the strength of the branches. Total number top dressing in the summer months is limited to 3 times.

During flowering, gardeners also use non-standard dressings:

• lactic acid (yogurt, kefir, whey);
• soaked sour bread.

Advice. In autumn, hydrangeas need to accumulate potassium and phosphorus, so repeat the course of mineral fertilizer application.

How to understand why hydrangea does not bloom

The main reasons for the lack of buds in an adult specimen of hydrangea:

Before experienced gardener the question of flowering hydrangea is not worth it. The main factor in this is the proper care of the plant.

How to make hydrangea bloom: video

Hydrangea is mainly a plant for gardeners. But there are also varieties that can be quite successfully grown at home. The most suitable species for this is large-leaved hydrangea. This is very beautiful variety with oval dark green juicy foliage. The greatest merit is the flowers. They come in pink, red and white color. But in order to wait for them, you need to know the rules of maintenance and navigate in the event of a problem “why the hydrangea does not bloom”.

Flowering home hydrangea

Which is provided proper care, is able to please its owner with abundant flowering for a long time. This plant can bloom for a good six months during the period from mid-spring to mid-autumn. The basic rules, adhering to which hydrangea at home will actively grow and bloom:

1. Must choose right place for a pot of hydrangea. You need to choose a place well lit, however, without direct sunlight. Indoor hydrangea can also feel good in partial shade. This moment is especially important in the warm season. In the winter months, you can safely place the flower on the sunniest windowsill.
2. Insufficient and untimely watering. This flower is very moisture-loving. The soil underneath must be constantly moist. It is also necessary to spray the flower often enough. After the plant sheds part of the leaves before wintering, watering can be done less frequently.
3. The plant is too hot. Hydrangea can't stand heat. It is desirable to keep the flower at a temperature not higher than 20 degrees Celsius.
4. The plant needs correct pruning. It must be remembered that biennial shoots can bloom in hydrangeas. Pruning should be carried out until mid-summer and cut half the shoots on which the flowers have already faded. Before the dormant period, only a few of the strongest shoots should remain. It may also need pruning with the advent of spring. Again, you need to cut off weak shoots so that they do not take away the strength necessary for flowering.
5. Violation of the dormant period. The rest period should last two to two and a half months. At this time, the plant must either be sent to a cool basement and kept at a temperature of about 7 degrees Celsius, or vice versa, move it closer to the light. It is impossible to completely stop watering, but fertilizing must be completely abandoned. Breeders also bred varieties that can be left at normal room conditions nor do they shed their leaves as vigorously as the common hydrangea, which is deciduous. It should also be borne in mind that if you realized late that your pet still needs a cool winter, then you can’t abruptly take it out into the cold after some time in the heating season. It must be gradually adapted to a decrease in temperature, gradually increasing the time spent in a cool room. The systematic absence of a dormant period in hydrangeas negatively affects not only flowering, but can also significantly reduce the life of this plant.
6. The plant does not like the acidity of the soil. Hydrangea does not like slightly acidic soil. Periodic acidification is recommended to be carried out with lemon juice in proportions of 5-6 drops per 1 liter of water. The use of ash, lime, chalk and dolomite flour are undesirable.
7. The plant is not enough nutrients. It should also be borne in mind that hydrangeas must be transplanted annually. If the plant is not transplanted after flowering, then next year this may be the reason why the hydrangea does not bloom. We must not forget about fertilizers. The flower especially needs top dressing during the period of bud formation and flowering itself.

Blooming garden hydrangea

As for why there is no flowering in the hydrangea that grows in the open field, then the answer largely depends on what kind of garden hydrangea we are talking about.

1. The most common reason why it does not bloom pink hydrangea that the plant is dead. It is necessary to take care of a comfortable stay on the bush street in the cold season. It needs to be covered for the winter. Also, frost, in addition to freezing the buds, can also lead to discoloration of the foliage.
2. Hydrangea tree also needs to be sheltered from frost. For the rest of the year, it is important not to forget that all varieties of hydrangeas are extremely moisture-loving.
3. At paniculate hydrangea flowering may never occur if it is planted in sandy soil. Also, the peculiarity of this variety of hydrangeas is that she loves soil with low acidity.

Also, all varieties of hellish hydrangea and room must be protected from pests and. Cause trouble, stem nematode.

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Hydrangea is a shrub of great beauty. In horticulture, it is valued for the variety of forms of inflorescences, diverse color palette and very easy maintenance. Often, it turns out that a person buys with hands blooming hydrangea, transplants it, but the inflorescences gradually begin to fade, and over time it dries completely. So why is the hydrangea not blooming? In this article, we will try to understand this issue.

Description

Hydrangea belongs to the Hydrangea family, which has about 70-80 plant species. Most species are shrubs 1-3 m high, some species are small trees, the rest are lianas. Most of the plants are deciduous. Hydrangeas bloom from spring to late autumn. The flowers are collected at the end of the stem in beautiful large inflorescences.

The shape of the inflorescences can be:

• oval;
• spherical;
• In the form of a panicle;
• In the form of a bump.

Inflorescence color:

• White;
• Blue;
• Pink;
• purple;
• Crimson;
• Red;
• Lilac;
• Cream.

There are varieties that combine several colors in color at the same time. The acidity of the soil directly affects the color of the inflorescences.

Hydrangea fruit - 2-5 - a separate box with numerous small seeds.

This shrub is native to North America, East and South Asia.

Varieties

A fairly large number of types of hydrangeas are known - these are shrubs, trees and lianas. More and more often they can be found on garden plots in Russia. The most common are:

• Hydrangea paniculata;
• Hydrangea large-leaved (or garden);
• Hydrangea;
• Hydrangea petiolate (climbing);
• Hydrangea oaky;
• Hydrangea radiant;
• Hydrangea ashen (gray);
• Hydrangea serrate;
• Hortense Sargent.

In addition to the above species, there are others, but they are rarely seen in our gardens.

For indoor cultivation one type of hydrangea is used - this is Hydrangea large-leaved. This species was brought over 200 years ago from China. blooms given plant from spring to late autumn.

Reasons for the lack of flowering

Many who grow this plant often wonder why the hydrangea does not bloom?

There are actually a lot of reasons:

1. Incorrect pruning of shrubs in the spring.
2. Insufficient watering.
3. Undeveloped root system.
4. The use of "growth stimulant".
5. Badly lit place.
6. Plant freezing in winter.

Hydrangea blooms can be easily restored. You just need to follow all the rules of care, including, do not forget to periodically fertilize.

Landing and care rules

Hydrangea - photophilous plant. But bright Sun rays and strong wind she can be harmed. Grows well in shady places. Hydrangea loves fertile, acidic, loose soils.

Landing rules:

• Plant in the spring, when the soil has warmed up and the danger of frost has passed.
• Before planting, the plant must be cut and the roots shortened.
• The planting hole should be spacious 50 * 50 or 80 * 80 cm, depending on the size of the plant.
• The soil must be fertilized - organic and mineral fertilizers must be applied.
• The planted bush should be watered abundantly and covered with fallen leaves. For irrigation, it is better to defend the water, which saves the plant from leaf chlorosis. Watering is best done in the morning and evening, when there is no hot sun.
• Some species and varieties need to be pruned annually during the appearance of buds to prevent strong stretching of the bushes in length.

Even a beginner in gardening can quickly learn how to care for this plant. It is only necessary to carry out watering in a timely manner, loosen the ground and prepare the plant for wintering. You also need to know the measure of fertilizer application. If their number is too large, then too voluminous inflorescences will form, and under their weight the branches can simply break.

reproduction

Propagation of hydrangeas is carried out in the following ways:

• layering;
• seeds;
• cuttings.

the most efficient and the easy way propagation of hydrangeas by cuttings is considered.

Diseases and pests

The main diseases that affect this luxurious plant:

1. Chlorosis, in which yellowness appears on the leaves.

1. Gray rot leading to brown rotted spots on the leaves.

1. Septoria, causing the appearance of brown spots on leaves with a diameter of about 5 mm. In this case, the infected leaf darkens over time and completely disappears.

1. Rust, which is characterized by a rusty color on the leaves.

But in addition to diseases, various pests and insects can overcome hydrangea:

1. Aphid. It can be found on the back of the leaves. A flower affected by this pest grows very poorly.

1. Spider mite. Finding this pest is not difficult, as the branches are covered with cobwebs.

1. Slugs. They eat leaves.

For the prevention and control of pests and insects, the soil should be treated with various chemicals: insecticides, antifungal drugs, pesticides, folk remedies.

Use in landscaping, combination with other plants

Hydrangea is at the peak of popularity today. It is used to create different floral ensembles and garden styles.

With the help of hydrangeas, unique compositions are created in the garden. It can be used in tandem with lilac, spirea and mock orange. You can also combine this plant with others. garden flowers, which have a similar shape. This creates an amazing effect during the flowering period.

If the hydrangea is planted near a reservoir, then it can be combined with plants that love wet soil, for example, hosta, astilba, bergenia.

Medicinal properties and uses

Hydrangea can be not only a decoration of the garden. Since ancient times, the Cherokee Indians have used hydrangea root for kidney problems.

It has the following medicinal properties:

• soothing;
• Diuretic;
• Prevents stone formation in the kidneys;
• Painkillers;
• bactericidal.

Hydrangea is used to treat:

Angina. Flowers and leaves are used. 1/10 tbsp Pour boiling water over the mixture and bring to a boil. Infuse for 1 hour, then strain. Take 100 ml 3 times a day in a warm form 30 minutes before meals.

diarrhea. Fresh crushed leaves are used. 2 tsp leaves in 1 cup boiling water. Infuse for about an hour, then strain. Take 2 tbsp. 3 times a day before meals.

Cystitis. Fresh leaves or branches are used. Preparation: pour crushed leaves or branches with alcohol in a ratio of 1: 1. Let him insist. Take ½ tsp. 2 times a day.