Wiring diagram of the pass-through switch: we connect step by step from two and three places. Correct installation of light switches How to install a one-button switch

When carrying out repairs, the task often arises of installing a new switch for the lighting system or replacing it. This is not difficult to do, but compliance with electrical safety rules and work technology is required.

Switch types

This device is installed at the shoulder level of a person at a height of about 160 cm above floor level. But now several other standards for the installation height of switches are popular - it is placed no higher than 90 cm from the floor. The last option is convenient in that you do not need to raise your hand, the point of turning on the electric lighting is available to family members with short stature.

There are two types of switches, depending on the installation method:

Devices internal installation- are placed in a specially prepared place using a mounting box. The interior of the room will not be deteriorated, the aesthetics will remain, and the device itself can become decorative decoration... But at the same time you will have to gouge the walls.

Outdoor products are suitable for external placement of wiring, do not require breaking the integrity of the walls, are easy to use, but often spoil the appearance of the room.

There are also one-key and two-key models, the installation of which has some peculiarities. In the process of arranging electrical wiring in the house, a high-quality circuit breaker may also be required.

Internal installation rules

First, you need to determine the location where the one-key switch will be mounted. The junction box is then identified from which you will start pulling wires. In it, you need to identify the neutral and phase wires using an indicator screwdriver. Before starting work, the network must be completely de-energized.

The gap between the installation point and the junction box is selected taking into account the limitation of 3 m. From the junction box, a gate is installed for laying a cable 25 mm deep and wide.

When using a drill with a crown, it is necessary to drill a socket. The concrete inside the hole is removed using a simple tool - a chisel with a hammer. A plastic socket is placed in the cell, and it is advisable to use a putty to fix it.

For the further installation of a one-button switch, a copper-type wire with two cores must be routed. One of them is attached to the phase wire in the junction box, and the second is thrown over the switch to the cartridge structure.

The wires for the contact must be carefully brought into the socket box. For this, a hole in the side of the structure is used. The connection of wires to the terminals is made by screw connection or by means of clamps. After that, the strobe can be closed with a plaster mixture.

When actually installing the switch, you must remove decorative strip... The device is wound inward and fixed with retractable legs. The side screws must be screwed in. This will prevent the switch from falling out of the socket. When the main part is secured, you can put on and click on the cover on the body.

How to install an external model

The installation technology in this case is less laborious. After all, you will not need to groove walls and drill a cell. You can use a corrugated tube to route the wire. It is attached to the wall with clips. A good option would be to lay the wire in a special rectangular channel made of non-combustible material.

After determining the phase vein and turning off the electricity in the house, it is necessary to fix the channel and lay a wire in it. The key is disconnected from the switch, and the phase wire is attached to the indoor unit. You will also need to bring the vein to the lighting fixture.

The main unit is fastened with screws to a special lining, as can be seen in the photo of the switch installation. If the installation is carried out directly on a concrete base, then it is advisable to use dowels. After fixing, it is necessary to put on the key, turn on the power and check the operability of the mechanism.

Two-key modifications

These fixtures are used when it is necessary to regulate the lighting on a chandelier with several bulbs. They are also suitable for some types of premises, for example separate bathroom... By its design, such a model may require internal fastening or external mounting.

Do-it-yourself installation of a two-button switch is carried out according to the technology described above. However, a three-core wire is used.

One core of the phase-type wire is distinguished by the presence of voltage. It is connected to the switch. The other two act as diverters.

When connected, the phase wire is clamped with a screw at the top of the structure. The slots at the bottom are for wires that are de-energized. Often on indoor unit marking is applied - for the supply wire "1" or L, and for the rest - "2" and "3".

Since the home lighting system does not require a large amount of current, the maximum load will be 10 A. When working in rooms with high level humidity, it is necessary to install devices with a safety class IP44 and higher. And, of course, choose only high-quality models, avoiding cheap ones.

Photo of the installation process of the switch

DIY apartment renovation

Installing a switch with your own hands in an apartment is not the same a big problem to call and pay for the expensive services of a professional electrician. How to correctly install the switch, whether it be a two-key switch, you can find out by reading this review.

If you need a simple replacement for a broken device, then installing the switch with your own hands will take a small amount of time. If the problem of how to mount the device arose when laying a new circuit, then it will take much more time. Under such conditions, you must first decide on the type of wiring and at what level the device will be installed.

At what level to install the switches

The level of installation of the switch above the flooring is dictated only by the ease of use, and is absolutely not subject to the requirements for power or other characteristics of the lighting circuit. For a long time, the switches were installed somewhere at the level of human eyes (a tenant of average height), but recently it has become popular to be somewhere at a height of one meter from the floor level, so that you can press the key without raising your hand high.

Likewise, the location relative to doors and windows is not of fundamental importance, the main thing is that it is convenient to use the device.

Built-in and external switches

Now let's get back to the types of wiring. The wiring can be both open and closed, that is, either it runs along the surface of the wall structure (usually in a special cable channel), or it is covered with layers finishing material... In this regard, switches are also built-in and outdoor... The former are placed in a box (glass) walled into the wall, and the latter on the surface of the wall.

To begin with, we will consider how to install a switch when installing hidden wiring, due to the fact that this is a more time-consuming option.

Installing a built-in switch with your own hands

Attention! All subsequent work must be carried out in a completely de-energized room!

When installing hidden wiring, it begins with the installation of the box. Bolts are unscrewed from it (it is better to use boxes with fastening bolts, and not under the legs, the so-called "euro") and the plug that covers the holes for the wire is carefully removed. In ordinary glasses for the switch, there are five such holes as standard, four on the sides and one on the back wall, which one you will use depends on the place where the electrical cable is supplied.

The next stage is the installation of the box. At the beginning of this process, you need to insert the box into the chipped niche and check that it fits freely in it. Then, you need to dilute not a large number of alibaster with water, so that a putty of a certain consistency would form, approximately the same as the average thickness of sour cream. We place with the help of a narrow spatula part of this putty in our niche, also lightly smear it on the glass itself and carefully place the box in the niche, so that its edges are flush with the outer plane of the wall.

For a tighter attachment, add alabaster mixture to the extreme voids to better fix the glass. But do not overdo it, you do not need to immediately fill all the remaining gaps between the wall and the box, now the main thing is only to fix the glass in the right position and in the right place.

You need to act quickly, but also not to fuss, since the mixture of stucco (alibastra) hardens rather quickly. And do not try to necessarily work out the entire composition that you have mixed, the principle “that the good would not be wasted” does not work here.

During installation, be sure to make sure that plaster of paris did not fill in the broken window for the passage of the wire into the box. If this does happen, carefully remove the excess alabaster before it hardens completely (adding about the same amount of regular finishing putty to the alabaster helps to slow down the curing process).

While we are waiting for the alibaster to freeze, we strip the wire, that is, we remove the insulation from the ends of no more than 5 - 7 millimeters in size. We insert the cable into the mounting holes of the box. The free part of the wire should not exceed 10 centimeters - too long an end will not allow the switch to be located in the box, and too short will not create convenience in work.

Now you still need to stir in some plaster putty and carefully fill in any remaining gaps between the box and the wall structure. Let's leave our glass for now and return temporarily to the switch.

Before installing the device, or dismantling the old one, it must be disassembled. It is not difficult to do this, usually, for disassembly, you need to remove a key or several keys, if you have a double or triple switch, carefully picking it up with the end of a screwdriver, and then remove the latch holding the upper frame. After removing the frame, the device is disassembled with a screwdriver, this is not at all difficult to do.

We bring the cable to the switch for fastening, for this we unscrew the terminal screws, start the cleaned ends of the cable and tighten the fastening screws again.

The device is held in the box by using the spacer of special legs (levers), or with the help of screws, and more often, for fidelity, in both ways at the same time. Having installed the switch in the glass, pay attention to the location of the contacts (It is assumed that when turned on, the keys must turn up, when turned off, vice versa, down) and fix it with screws.

Then, tightening the screws, we move apart the spacer legs, securely fixing the device. If in the future you plan to paste over the walls with wallpaper, then there is no point in covering the mounted switch with an external cover and installing the keys, it is better to do this after all the finishing work is completed.

How to install a switch

Do-it-yourself installation of a surface-mounted switch

In general, it is the same, and even easier (since there is no need to mount the box), do-it-yourself overhead devices are mounted. Actually, switch installation is reduced to wall marking of places for fasteners, drilling using and inserting dowels, and fixing the switch on the wall structure.

Other types of switches, the same device with a rheostat, a device with a backlight, etc. installed in almost the same way, if there is a difference, it is not big. And devices that are triggered by a loud sound (by clapping the palms), or using voice control, are additionally always equipped with detailed instructions and a connection diagram.

In conclusion, I would like to add that mandatory requirement to all types of light switches - the phase cable must always pass through it, and not in any case zero, so that when the device is turned off, the replacement or installation of lighting devices can be done safely.

We hope that this article was able to answer the question - how to install the switch with your own hands? Successful repairs to you!

It would seem a trivial question - how to connect a switch to control lighting devices. However, for many novice home craftsmen who are setting up their residential properties for the first time and striving to do everything on their own to the maximum, this operation can cause complications. Moreover, various variations of connection schemes are possible, from the simplest to very complex.

The variety of switches on sale is extremely large. But basically, these differences relate to the external design of the devices and the "mechanics" of switching. And so in all series produced by leading manufacturers, the approximate similarity of the "sets" of models according to the principle of switching contacts is still observed. In this article we will see where, when and how switches of various types are connected.

What is a switch and where is it installed

A switch is an electrical switching device designed to control the closing and opening of the power supply circuit going to the luminaires. Some of them can also connect through it. Appliances eg a permanently installed fan.

Let's talk about the most important rule right away!

Switch always put on the gap. Yes, the power circuit can also be controlled through a break in the neutral conductor. And quite a few "masters" sin with this - they say, there is no difference. But this is a flagrant violation of operational safety requirements. The meaning here is simple and clear - if the switch broke the circuit, then on the device connected through it there should not be a life-threatening phase voltage. That is, for example, replacing a burned-out lamp in a luminaire will not be accompanied by the likelihood of electric shock.

And do not hope that this issue is not so serious. Neglect simple rules electrical installation is always fraught with serious consequences.

How big is the risk of electric shock?

The answer is unequivocal - extremely great! A 220-volt household network is quite capable of inflicting severe electrical injuries, sometimes incompatible with life. If there is no understanding of this issue, then take up independent execution electrical work not worth it. To begin with - carefully read the special publication of our portal, which tells in detail about.

Varieties of switches by design

Let's leave aside external design these devices - here each of the manufacturers is trying to attract the buyer with an original design. So there is always an opportunity to choose a set of sockets and switches made in a general style that is most suitable for the planned decoration of the premises. Let us dwell on more fundamental questions.

Embedded and overhead models

V modern apartments and houses in the overwhelming majority of cases use built-in models. Their use is possible exclusively with hidden wiring... The installation of the switch is carried out in a "socket" pre-equipped in the wall, in the role of which a standard socket with a diameter of 68 mm is most often used.

It is clear that the installation of such switches requires a fairly large-scale preparatory work... Moreover, the laying of the necessary cables and wires should be thoroughly thought out in advance. But on the other hand, the hidden, well-executed wiring is safer in operation and does not interfere with any chosen wall decoration at all.

How to plan and install electrical wiring in a house or apartment

The task is of the highest priority and increased complexity. When performing these very large-scale and labor-intensive activities, it is necessary to strictly follow established rules and technological recommendations. This is described in full details in a special publication of our portal.

Surface switches are mounted on the wall surface. This greatly simplifies their installation, and they can be used with both open and hidden wiring.

Such devices are not always appropriate in the interior, as walls protruding too far beyond the surface. But where this issue is not fundamental, such switches can greatly simplify the task. They are often used in utility or utility rooms. Many of these models have a higher protection class of the case, and may well be installed in a street or room with high humidity.

However, there are amateurs and it is underlined original design living rooms, using open wiring, made in a retro style. For this, there are also whole lines of overhead electrical devices - sockets and switches.

Number of keys

This difference can be seen right away - there can be one, two, three keys, and in rare cases - even more. It is obvious that such switches can be used to control several light sources or several groups of lamps on one luminaire.

A very common example is a two-key model installed in front of the entrance to the bathroom and toilet, or a three-key model, if a corridor or kitchen is also added here. Another "classic" option for using a two-button switch is separate control of lamp groups of one multi-track chandelier in the living room.

Convenience is understandable - there is no need to prepare two (or more) sockets with sockets for several switches - you can often limit yourself to one.

It should be understood correctly that the number of keys does not at all predetermine unambiguously the functionality of the switch. In addition to conventional devices that work only for closing and opening a circuit, there are also cross devices, which, in turn, can also have one or more keys. More on this below.

Protection class of the circuit-breaker body

All electrical devices are subdivided according to the degree of protection against the ingress of solid objects (including dust) and moisture (water) on current-carrying parts. Depending on the expected operating conditions of the circuit breaker, a model suitable for these criteria should be selected.

The security class is indicated letter designation IP followed by two-digit number... The first number indicates the degree of protection against solid particles and dust, and can be from 0 to 6. The second number is an indicator of protection against water ingress - from 0 to 9. The higher the number, the higher the protection.

In ordinary living rooms where too high humidity and dustiness can not be, it is quite possible to use switches of class IP20. Nothing prevents the installation here and more secure, but this is reflected in the cost. But for the kitchen, for example, it is worth choosing a model of the IP44 class - here there are enough vapors, and the likelihood of splashing water cannot be completely ruled out.

The requirements are even higher if the switch is installed in a bathhouse, in a shower room, in an unheated damp room. Here it is better to use models with a class of at least IP45. Well, if the installation is supposed to be outdoors, that is, a direct hit of atmospheric precipitation is possible, then a model not lower than IP55, 56, 66 seems to be optimal - extra insurance will never hurt in these matters.

Differences by terminal type

Most switches have conventional screw terminals for wiring. The stripped end of the wire is inserted into the socket (hole), and then using a screwdriver, tighten the screw, which provides a secure hold in the terminal. Solid wires can be tightened directly into the terminals. Stranded - first they are tinned, or, which is simpler, a terminal tip is put on and crimped on them.

In many modern models spring terminals are used. There is no screw on them - after the prepared end of the wire is inserted all the way into the hole, the terminal is clamped automatically, ensuring reliable contact. Convenient and fast, although some electricians are still skeptical about the durability of such connections, preferring to work with the usual screw terminals.

Availability of light indication

Convenient feature that allows you not to fumble on the wall with your hand in the dark. The indicator lit in the off position will accurately show the location of the switch keys. The cost of such devices is not much higher than conventional ones, so such models are very popular.

Nevertheless, sometimes the owners who did not think about this issue in advance have to give up such a function. The fact is that a small current flowing through the indicator can cause flickering or dim glow of gas discharge or LED lamps when the lighting is off. This is very seriously unnerving for many. And you have to bite out the conductor going to the indicator in order to turn it off altogether. So this should be borne in mind when choosing a switch.

By the way, the indication on some types of switches may have a completely opposite purpose. That is, the light is on when the circuit is closed. This is useful for remote placement of the lighting fixture. For example, you can immediately see if the light remains on in the basement, garage inspection pit, etc.

Differences by type of control device

This question also presents a fairly wide variety. And each of the owners chooses the option that seems more convenient to him.

• Rocker switches - uh This is the most common group of switching devices. It assumes the presence of a swinging mechanism with fixation in one of two positions - upper and lower. The design of the mechanism can be different - with a ball and a rocker arm, with flat or round springs, with other details that ensure the given position of the key.

Such switches are very convenient, most familiar to most users. They also do not differ in high price. And at the same time, they are sufficiently reliable, capable of serving faithfully for decades with careful operation.

• Switches with pushbutton, fixed in a recessed position, did not deserve much popularity, although there are lovers of this approach. The durability of such devices raises some concerns - with frequent use, the button mechanism wears out rather quickly.

Pushbutton switches are also available without latching. But in this case, a relay device must also be included in the circuit, which will be responsible for closing the power circuit. Not very convenient for self-assembly.

• Rotary switches once they dominated infinitely, and then keyboards came to replace them, as more comfortable and reliable. However, they still have their adherents, especially among lovers of retro style.

As a rule, these are surface-mounted switches, and most often from the collections of "retro electrics". By the way, the "outdated" in them is only the appearance. And the "filling" can be quite modern. So, with the external similarity of different models of this type, they can be different in functionality - have several positions, be analogs of two-key, pass-through, cross, etc.

• Switches with a cord. There are also lovers of such devices. These switches come in handy when placed in traditional home resting places or near a bed in a bedroom.

It is difficult to say how appropriate the ubiquitous installation of such switches will be in place of the usual keyboards. Nevertheless, they are represented in the assortment of almost all leading manufacturers. By the way, the presence of only one lace sometimes does not mean the limited functionality of the product. For example, some switches of this type are capable of reacting differently to the number of pulls on the cord. That is, upon closer inspection, they turn out to be analogues of models with several keys.

• Touch switches... This is already a trend of modernity. A light touch of your finger is enough to switch positions.

Tactile contact with the panel is perceived as built-in electronic circuit, which already generates a control signal for the switching device. Very convenient, no effort required. And after a quick getting used to this technique, you no longer want to go back to old models.

The disadvantage is, first of all, the rather high cost of such switches. This criterion, probably, does not allow them to move into the category of widely demanded equipment yet. But the downward trend is clearly visible, and the demand for it will grow. Presumably, their reliability will also increase, since there are many complaints on the network about the not outstanding durability of some products.

• Remote controlled switches. This is a further improvement of sensory models, which allows you to control light without getting up from your seat.

Surely, such devices have a great future, and their popularity is constantly growing. But they have not yet reached the mass demand - again, due to the high cost.

There are other types of switches - with an electromechanical or electronic (brightness control), with built-in light or motion sensors, with a timer, or even responding to voice commands. But these are already particulars that are either used extremely rarely, or have a narrowly focused purpose.

Note again that, regardless of the mentioned types of switches, fundamentally similar circuits are used for their electrical installation. This will be the subject of further consideration.

Connection diagrams for switches of various types

Conventional one-button switch

The most common and simple scheme - a switch is responsible for controlling a specific lighting fixture.

Such a switch has only two contacts on the terminals - at the input and at the output. Therefore, there are only two possible positions - the circuit is closed or open.

The circuit using such a switch is also very simple.

Several explanations at once according to the scheme - they will concern not only her, but also subsequent ones.

1 is the power line from the distribution board. Typically, a power cable has three wires. Blue (cyan) - zero N. Green-yellow - protective earth PE. The color of the insulation of the phase conductor L can be different, but only so that it cannot be confused with zero or ground. In this diagram, the phase is shown in brown.

2 - installation room, in which the switching of suitable cables and wires is carried out.

3 - wire connection points.

Let's make a reservation right away that such connections in the box can be performed in different ways. These are twists, followed by soldering and insulation. For non-soldered twists, special caps can be used. Various types of terminals are widely used. So, the Wago clamping terminals are very popular among electricians, allowing, if necessary, to disconnect the wires without the risk of breaking them. These terminals are often criticized. But from personal experience: for 8 years of operation in a home lighting system - not a single complaint.

However, every craftsman is free to choose a connection that meets safety requirements and his concepts of reliability and durability. The only thing, of course, is that twists are completely excluded. By the way, aluminum, by the way, has no place in home wiring for a long time.

4 – one-button switch.

5 - a lighting device is conventionally shown.

6 - the body of the lighting device, if it is made of metal. In this case, a ground loop wire must be connected to it to avoid injury in case of phase breakdown to the case. As you can see, this grounding conductor does not take any part in the control and power supply circuit of the lighting device and, by and large, does not affect its performance. It is not used even if the luminaire body is completely made of dielectric materials. Therefore, once again stressing the importance of protective earth, in the subsequent diagrams we will not show it, so as not to "overload" the image with details.

We draw your attention once again - the switch is placed only on the phase gap. The zero conductor goes straight from the mounting box to the luminaire - in the area of ​​the switch it has nothing to do at all.

How such a connection works is shown in the diagram below.

Everything is extremely simple and straightforward. When the key is switched up, the circuit is closed. There is already a zero on the luminaire, the phase has come through the switch - the luminaire has started working. (We are talking about lighting, but it should be correctly understood that another device, for example, a stationary fan, can be connected in the same way).

Again, just for example, when studying the simplest circuit, let's look at the recommended sequence of steps for connecting the switch to the lighting fixture using hidden wiring.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	Preparatory work was carried out. The apartment (house) is already equipped with a switchboard with automatic switches (pos. 1). Strokes (pos. 2) were cut from it for laying power cables of hidden wiring. From the mounting box (pos. 3), "responsible" for connecting the lighting device, a rod (pos. 4) is cut vertically downward to the socket (pos. 5), where the switch will be installed. In the opposite direction, towards the ceiling there is a rod (pos. 6) for laying the cable from the box to the lighting fixture.
	A cable is laid from the switchboard in the box to the box. If the network implies the presence of a ground loop, then the cable must be three-core. For lighting systems, we can recommend VVG cable PNG 3 × 1.5 mm². The cable must be put into the box with a margin of about 100 ÷ 120 mm, so that the length is sufficient for installation work.
	The L phase wire (in this example, its insulation is gray) is connected to the output of the circuit breaker responsible for a specific line of the lighting system. When using wires with a cross section of 1.5 mm², the rating of the machine should be 10 amperes.
	The blue wire of the N cable connects to the zero bus. Green-yellow, respectively, to the PE busbar.
	The end of the cable stuck into the box is cut - the outer protective sheath is removed from it, the ends of the wires are stripped from insulation by 8 ÷ 10 mm. It is advisable to immediately mark the wires - stick strips of plaster on them and sign. This is especially important if distractions are made for other work (and this often happens at this stage of construction or repair), and in cases where the colors of the wire insulation have a non-standard color - and this also happens. So that the "pinout" is not forgotten, it is better to immediately mark the wires.
	A two-core VVG 2 × 1.5 cable is laid in a vertical line from the box to the socket of the future switch. There is also a margin of about 100 ÷ 120 mm in length. The cable is cut, the ends of the wires are stripped of insulation. The example shows that the wires have gray and brown insulation. V in this case this is not so important - just one L is marked, and the second - L1.
	A similar operation is carried out at the opposite end of this piece of cable, which is inserted into the socket. Since it is supposed to decorate the walls with filling the stub channels with plaster (putty), it is better to seal the socket at this stage with construction tape so that the solution does not get into it. The installation of the switch is usually carried out after finishing.
	From the junction box, along the upward strobe, and then along the cable channel in the ceiling, wiring is laid, going to the installation site of the lighting device. Again, it can be a VVG 3 × 1.5 cable if grounding is supposed to be switched.
	A lighting fixture is attached to the selected place. The laid cable must be guided into its housing. True, many devices (the same chandeliers) also assume an open location of the switching unit, which is then covered with a decorative cap. But it is not difficult to deal with this locally, and the switching principle does not change from such differences.
	The supplied cable is cut, the wires are stripped of insulation, marked.
	The stripped ends of the cable wires are connected to the luminaire terminals. For grounding, a terminal is usually provided, located directly on the body of the device. The blue N wire is connected to the terminal block, focusing on the color of the lamp wire that matches it, or guided by the affixed icon. Well, then the L1 phase wire is connected - to the remaining terminal or, again, in accordance with the marking of the contacts.
	The opposite, wound up in junction box the end of this cable is cut, the wires are stripped, marked.
	Now you need to carefully separate the wires in the box into groups. This is not difficult to do if marking has been carried out. In this case, four pairs are obtained. First (here - from left to right): phase L wire power cable and the L wire going from the box to the switch. Second: two blue neutral wires N - the power cable and going to the luminaire. The third is similar to the second, but only with green-yellow PE wires. The fourth is the L1 wires from the switch and from the lighting fixture.
	Now you need to connect these pairs. As mentioned above, this can be done using twists. But this example shows the use of the Wago clamping terminals. You will need four terminals for two contacts.
	The commutation has been made.
	The box can be closed immediately with a cap.
	If the home wiring system does not have a ground loop, or if the fixture is made of dielectric materials and does not require grounding, the task is simplified. In this case, a two-core cable is laid from the box to the luminaire.
	And in the box there are only three connecting nodes, that is, three terminals are enough for switching.
	After the complete completion of the work on laying home wiring, the room is finished.
	Now you can finally install the switch in place. Wires are connected to the terminals - one at the input, the second at the output. There is a fundamental difference in this case, where L turns out to be, and where L1 is not. But with more complex schemes, which will be discussed later, this can make a difference.
	That's all, after attaching it to the socket, the switch can be closed with a decorative cover, the button can be put in place.
	After that, it remains to screw the lamps into the lamp, finally assemble it by installing the shade. Well, then - power the line on the machine in the switch cabinet and evaluate the system's performance by checking the switching on and off of the light. Everything should work flawlessly.

The reader must have noticed that nothing is said about installing the switch itself into the socket. The fact is that the designs of the models differ in a wide variety. And how, in what sequence, to disassemble the device, how to clamp the terminal connections - you can't count all the cases. And the very fixing of the switch in the socket box is practically no different from the installation (not to be confused with electrical installation!) Of a socket or other built-in device. And this has already been described in detail on the pages of our portal. Therefore, repeating itself - there is not much sense in sight. Better to focus on specifically schematic diagrams switch switching.

How to install an outlet in an apartment?

With this task, subject to compliance with all safety requirements and following the schemes and technological recommendations, any homeowner should cope. With all the details, with a few step by step examples this is described in a special article on our portal.

Two-button switch

This switch allows you to control the lighting of two separate lamps (groups of lamps), or to make separate switching on of lamp groups, for example, in one multi-track chandelier.

• the switches may differ. Most often, a model is used in which one common (parallel) phase input and two separate outputs. Its scheme can be represented as follows:

Obviously, each of the keys is completely independent of the other controls its own group of lighting fixtures. For example, such switches are often placed in front of the bathroom and toilet - you can turn on the light in any room or in both at the same time. Or, attached to one lamp. The first key turns on one or two bulbs, the light of which is enough for a normal rest. The second key - uses a little more lamps, that is, the light will be brighter. But when full lighting is required, both keys turn on and all the horns light up.

The diagram below will help the wizard who is first faced with this question to better understand the connection principle.

In the junction box, zero wires diverge to the luminaires. The phase wire is connected to the input of the two-button switch. And from each of the outputs, a separate conductor goes through the junction box, each to its own lamp. Their inclusion can be carried out separately, independently of one another, or simultaneously.

It is clear that a three-core cable must already be laid from the junction box to the switch. And here it is already necessary to pay special attention to the correct marking of the wires, as mentioned above. The colors of the insulation of the wires converging in the box can often coincide, and thus mislead the inexperienced installer.

Let's say right away that a three-button switch is connected according to the same principle. The number of wires leaving it simply increases.

• Some care should be taken when purchasing a two-button switch. The fact is that, although rare, but still there are models with a separate phase input. On the diagram, it might look like this:

Note: the indicated marking of the terminal contacts is very conditional. By the way, manufacturers have no consensus on this issue. There are completely arbitrary digital and alphanumeric contact signatures, or even symbols in the form of arrows. But in combination with the diagram, usually printed on the back of the switch case, it is not difficult to deal with each specific case.

It is clear that the circuit shown above is not quite suitable for such a switch. True, if it was by mistake to buy just such a model, everything is decided by installing a jumper that closes both contacts at the input.

Such switches are also used. It is clear that bringing two different phases into one socket box is complete madness. But sometimes circumstances force you to draw lines from two different defensive lines. Although this looks like an extremely inexpedient and cumbersome solution.

You can use a similar device for some complicated lighting control schemes. For example, it is required to organize the switching in such a way that the switching on of a group of lamps lies depending on whether another group is switched on. In this case, you can install a jumper between the output of one "channel" and the input of another. If you look at the illustration above, it is between L1 and L2.

What is achieved by this is shown by the following diagram.

A jumper connecting the output of the left key with the input of the right is shown in green.

A phase wire is connected directly to the input of the left key. And in her work she is completely independent. That is, its inclusion leads to the inclusion of devices connected to this line. But if it is off, then the second key will not work - the circuit in the second line is open. But when the first is turned on, then the second can already "lead his team."

Such cases are rare, but who knows, maybe such an option will come in handy.

Connecting a pass-through switch

Imagine situations like this:

• Spacious entrance hall. The owner returned home in the dark, turned on the light at the entrance, took off his shoes, undressed. And then he is forced to turn off the light and make his way in the dark to the door to the room. Inconvenient. The opportunity arises to turn off the light just at the exit from the hallway.
• A long corridor, passing through which it will also be more convenient to turn on the light at the entrance and turn it off at the exit.
• A walk-through common room or hall, from where several doors lead to adjacent rooms. It would be nice to be able to control the lighting from each one.

And there can be many such options. To solve this problem, it is necessary to use pass-through switches, the name of which already speaks for itself.

By and large, these are not even switches, but switches. Outwardly, they look like the usual one-key. They are often marked with a distinctive icon in the form of multidirectional vertical arrows. But the scheme of their internal switching differs from the usual one-key ones and looks like this:

Two positions of the switch button correspond to two switching options - to one or the second output. And such switches in common system are always used in pairs.

Their electrical installation diagram may look like this:

We begin to understand.

With a neutral wire - no changes.

The phase wire from the box goes to the input of one of the switches. A wire going to the luminaire is connected to the input contact of the second switch. (Both are shown in brown).

Output # 2 of the first switch is connected through the back box with a wire to output # 3 of the second. (Highlighted in purple).

And, accordingly, exit # 3 of the first - with exit # 2 of the second.

Thus, it turns out that a three-core cable must be connected to each single-key pass-through switch.

In the position shown in the diagram, it is quite obvious that the power supply circuit of the luminaire is open. But it is worth moving the key to a different position on any of the switches, as the circuit closes. And vice versa - when the lighting is on, any of the switches is capable of breaking the circuit.

By the way, the switching of the output contacts shown here is not at all a dogma. It's just that with such a scheme, the same position of the keys (both up or both down) of the pass-through switches means an open circuit. Unequal - inclusion. But nothing prevents the contacts of the same name from being connected to each other - just actuation and deactivation will occur at other key positions. It doesn't matter.

The animated illustration below clearly shows how such a scheme works with two pass-through switches.

Pass-through switches can be two- or even three-key, that is, they can control two or three lighting devices (groups of devices) according to the same principle. We will not give the scheme - it is not fundamentally different. Only, of course, the number of wires is increasing.

Cross switch application

But what if you want to have three or even more lighting control points? For example, on the switch at the head of the owner's bed in the bedroom and at the entrance to the room? Or at each of the exits of a spacious hall with many doors?

There is a solution to this problem. For this, together with a pair of pass-through switches, another one is used. It is called crossover or intermediate.

The cross switch can also be one- or two-key. For external difference on its front side, an image is often applied in the form of multidirectional horizontal arrows or in the form of a lattice.

Let's consider a simpler option - one-key. He has such a switching scheme.

The cross switch has four terminals, that is, four wires must be connected to it from the junction box. And they are nothing more than those conductors that connect the output terminals of the feed-through switches. That is, in fact, the cross switch is placed in the gap of this pair of wires. An example is shown in the diagram below:

It is already difficult to describe all the possible options here - there are quite a few of them. But the main thing can be summarized unambiguously. In whatever position the switch keys are when the system is not working, changing the position of any of them will immediately turn on the lighting. And vice versa - when the light is on, it is enough to switch any key to make it go out. That is, the lighting control can be completely equivalently performed from any of the points.

One more interesting feature- the number of cross switches between checkpoints is not limited by anything. And no matter how many of them are installed according to this principle, all of them will be able to control the connected lighting device with absolutely equal success.

* * * * * * *

So, the main, most frequently used circuit breakers connection schemes were considered. The only question that remained not entirely clear was - where is it better to locate them? On this score, there are also quite definite recommendations. We will not describe them here - they are very well described in the video clip below.

Video: How to place switches in an apartment more correctly and with maximum convenience for yourself?

If it is necessary to replace an old or defective key switch, light switch, circuit breaker, or outlet, it is not necessary to seek the assistance of a qualified electrician. Elementary knowledge from the course school physics enough to get the job done. But at the same time, it is important to do everything correctly and observe safety precautions. How to properly install a switch or outlet will be discussed in this article.

How to install sockets and switches

Electrical manufacturers offer switches and sockets various designs and designs. All of them are divided into built-in and outdoor. Sockets are single, double and interlocked (several sockets in a common housing). Key switches are:

• one-key;
• two-key;
• three-key.

Their electrical circuit is practically the same. The principle of operation consists in interrupting contacts when disconnecting the consumer and closing when it is turned on. The "phase" is connected to the fixed contact terminal, and the wire supplying the light source is connected to the movable terminal. The direction of connection of the "phase" on the housing is indicated by an arrow. In this case, it is important to securely and tightly tighten the fixing screws in the terminals: poor contact leads to arcing, breaker failure or even fire.

The electrical circuits of the circuit breaker in the network are shown in the figure.

Important! Installation can only be carried out after disconnecting the power supply. To do this, turn the automatic or packet switch in the switchboard, located on the staircase, to the "OFF" position and check the presence of voltage with the indicator.

How to install a light switch

Let's look at how to install a one-button switch.

The sequence of actions when installing (replacing) the built-in switch.

1. Disconnect the power supply.
2. Remove the front cover of the old switch by unscrewing the center screw.
3. Unscrew the screws securing the switch in the plastic cup (socket).
4. Loosen the fastening of the spacer "lugs" by partially unscrewing the screws located on the sides of the switch body.
5. Remove the switch from the plastic cup.
6. Disconnect the conductors from the terminals, remembering or marking their position with a marker.
7. If necessary, replace the old-style socket with a new plastic one. To quickly fix the socket in the socket, it is used water solution alabaster.
8. In the reverse order to dismantling the old switch, install the new one and close the front cover. Pay attention to the symbols indicated near the terminals on the housing: the arrows indicate the "input" and "output" of the phase.

The procedure for replacing the external switch is not fundamentally different from those described above. The difference is that instead of a bowl-shaped socket, this design uses a wooden or plastic gasket.

Let's find out how to install a two-key switch. During the installation process, it is important to correctly connect the conductors supplying the light sources. Keeping order is important for ease of use. For example, if the bathroom consists of a bathroom and a toilet separated by a partition, the left key should be responsible for lighting the room on the left. Right key - respectively. Thus, one (phase) wire coming from the junction box is connected to the incoming terminal, and wires going to the contacts of the lamp base are connected to the two outgoing terminals (indicated by arrows).

A three-button switch is installed in the same way.

The basic rule: the switch must always "break" the phase wire (it can be determined using the indicator). The "zero" wire does not go into the switch and is switched directly with the wiring of the light source.

The nuances of installing key switches and sockets

1. Choice of color and design. In this matter, one should be guided by the rules for combining the style and color of the materials used in decorating the interior of the room. Switches and sockets should not stand out on the wall, which means they need to be matched to the main color.
2. Where to install the switch or socket. The light switch is installed at the entrance to the room, usually on the right side. The socket must be located near the consumer (connected electrical appliance). Before replacing all wiring, the capacity, number and location of the main electrical appliances should be determined in advance.
3. At what height to install switches and sockets. The installation height of the socket from the floor is 20 cm, but in some cases (for example, for connecting a boiler or air conditioner) it will be better if the socket is located closer to the ceiling. The switches are installed at a height of about 90 cm from the floor. But if there are small children in the house, the switches can be installed higher.
4. For installation in a plasterboard partition, they use socket boxes (plastic cups) of a special design - with clamping legs. Tightening the side screws on the sides, press and fix the socket in the socket with the paws.
5. It is necessary to observe the minimum distance between the outlet (switch) and other communications. There must be at least 0.5 m between the socket (switch) and the gas pipe.There must be at least 0.6 m to the shower door.
6. Pass-through switches designed to turn on / off light sources from different areas of the room are connected according to the diagram indicated on their case.
7. When connecting an illuminated switch, one wire connected to it is connected to the phase terminal and the other to any of the remaining terminals.

Important: in order to avoid electric shock to children, it is necessary to install closed sockets or use special plugs.

Rules for installing sockets

Sockets are:

• for open wiring;
• for hidden wiring;
• with grounding contact;
• without grounding contact.

In addition to the usual, waterproof sockets are used (see photo).

These are installed in rooms with high humidity (in steam rooms, in swimming pools, in bathrooms, in the kitchen). The sockets are distinguished by the number of phases:

• single-phase;
• for a three-phase network.

The latter are available with or without a zero conductor.

Installation of outlets is carried out in accordance with the following rules.

1. In rooms with high humidity, sockets with a grounding contact are installed to connect to the grounding conductor. Place sockets at a distance of at least 0.6 m from plumbing fixtures.
2. When connecting a three-phase socket, you must observe the phasing ( correct alternation phases). This is important for the normal operation of some devices. For phasing, you will need a special device - a voltammetric phase meter (VAF).
3. In a single-phase network, the "neutral" wire (N) is insulated with material of blue color, "Phase" (L) - brown, ground wire - yellow-green. There are other markings when the phase wire has red, white or black insulation.
4. For a three-phase network, the marking of phase "A" is adopted in yellow, phase "B" - green, phase "C" - red. Compliance with the markings will make installation easier.

Important: stranded wires are crimped before connecting to the socket or switch terminal. Be sure to fix the socket housing with screws, screwing them into the holes of the socket.

How to install a circuit breaker

In some cases, it is necessary to install an additional circuit breaker in the in-house switchboard. Before installing the switch, you should familiarize yourself with some rules.

1. The circuit breaker is selected according to the total current consumption of all electrical equipment connected to it. The breaker rating should be slightly lower than the calculated value.
2. The installation of the "machine" is carried out after the power supply is disconnected.
3. The "automatic machine" must be fixed in the control room so that turning it on and off does not lead to displacement. Modern method offers DIN-rail fixation: latches on the back hold the device securely. First, the top latch is placed on top of the din-rail, after which the bottom latch is pressed until it clicks.
4. The phase wire (coming from a general switch or RCD) is connected according to the scheme indicated on the "machine", that is, usually - to the upper terminal. A wire going to the load is connected to the bottom.
5. When stripping the insulation, be careful not to damage the conductor. It is important that the insulation is completely removed in the area directly in contact with the terminal of the "machine". To do this, check the depth of the entry after unscrewing the screw.
6. Several circuit breakers on one DIN rail they are connected with jumpers. The terminal screws must be tightened in several steps.
7. When connecting two-pole "automatic machines", where there is "zero" and "phase", the polarity must be observed.
8. After installation, connect the power supply and check the correct operation of electrical appliances.

In conclusion, we suggest that you visually familiarize yourself with how to install the switch: a video with expert comments.

The following video on the nuances of choosing and connecting circuit breakers will also be useful.

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Very often it is required to independently branch the wiring around the house, install sockets and switches. The main thing is to have instructions and a diagram of the correct installation on hand. Since it is very simple to connect a light switch with your own hands, everything can be done without the help of specialists.

Kinds

Exists different types light switches that are used to control lamps in an apartment or house. Let's consider the main ones:

1. One-key;
2. Two-key;
3. Three-key;
4. Sensory;
5. Remote.

One-key light switch is the simplest of the existing ones. A metal bracket is installed in the device body using a screw connection. She controls the switch-off plate. On the sides of the bracket there are legs, with which the whole structure is installed into the box. There is also a compartment with wires in the body.

Two-key switches are two single-key switches in one housing. A special feature is the greater number of wire groups. You can connect chandeliers with large quantity light bulbs or several lamps in different rooms. Three-key models have a similar design.

Photo - one and two keyboards

The sensory model works by electrical circuit built into the body. Often equipped with a diode, backlight or shutdown regulator. A special infrared indicator is installed in the box, which detects the heat of the human body and closes the lamp contacts. The indicator model is often used in public places.

Photo - touch

The remote is perfect for controlling lighting big house or an apartment. It consists of a switch equipped with a signal receiver and a control unit. You can turn on and off the light directly from the unit or using the remote control for this purpose. It is mainly used in various complexes, as well as in the "Smart Home" system.

Photo - remote

How to connect one-key

To work, you need a selected switch, a junction box and a lamp to which you will connect. It is very easy to connect the one-button model directly. How to connect a one-button light switch for one bulb:

1. The phase wire of the power supply must be connected only through the contacts of the switching device, otherwise the lamp will always be energized, which is very dangerous. The phase is always connected to break. Very often, home craftsmen establish a break connection on the neutral wire, which can cause short circuit or even fire;
2. Next, connect in series the wires of the wall light switch and the powered lighting device. Power phase - to the switch, lamp zero to phase zero, lamp phase to switch zero.

Photo - connecting a one-keyboard player

It is more difficult to establish a connection for several lamps. There it is necessary to take into account the phase wires of several consumers at once. Just be careful and strictly follow the sounded scheme. It works as follows: when you turn on the light switch (position up), the lamp begins to receive electricity... If the key is pushed down, the chain is broken and the flow of directed particles stops.

Connecting a two-key model

A standard two-button light switch is designed to control different lighting devices or multiple groups of one lamp from a single location. Most often they are used if there are more than 2 lamps in the chandelier (5,6). In this case, you need to know that two keys are used to control only two groups, if the lamp is divided into more of them, then you need to use a triple switch.

Photo - connecting a two-key model to a chandelier

How to connect a two-button light switch yourself:

1. This model has three contacts - input and two outputs. In this case, a phase from the junction box is connected to the input contact, and the outputs are needed to control individual groups of the chandelier;
2. In the junction box, you need to bring the phase wire of the network and its zero;
3. First of all, all neutral conductors are connected to each other. Phase is supplied to the input of the electric light switch;
4. It also has wires for each group of lamps. They are most often separated by color coding. In order for each group to burn independently of the other, each must be connected to a separate phase wire. For example, the cable is yellow and gray: yellow is assigned to group 1, and gray to group 2;
5. The zero wire of the switch is connected to the zeros of the lamps and the network;
6. It remains only to insulate the conductors.

In this case, a double light switch can be connected so that when one group (main) is turned off, the second (additional) also turns off, then the circuit will be slightly different. It is necessary to switch the device not to each group separately, but both at once. Triple can be connected in a similar way. The main thing is that when the keys are turned off, the phase is disconnected, and not zero.

It is also very often required to connect the switch to a sconce lamp and an outlet. This saves space in the room for electrical outlets. Then the diagram looks like this:

1. The socket is installed in parallel to the supply wires. Phase, respectively, to the phase of the network, and zero - to zero;
2. The order of turning on the lamp does not change, we do everything in the same way as described above.

Thus, you can install a model produced by Legrand, Viko, UAZ or any others.

How to install a checkpoint

Now it has become very popular to install switches that allow different parts rooms disconnect one group. Let's consider how to correctly connect the light switches through passage:

Photo - connection diagram for pass-through switch

1. The scheme takes into account connecting box, because without it it will be difficult to connect;
2. It is necessary to bring the phase zero wire into the junction box and connect it to the zero of the lamp. The central phase cable is connected to the input contact of one of the switches of your choice;
3. After that, two changeover contacts of one switch must be connected to the same terminals of the second;
4. Now, after connecting the switches, the phase from one (to which it was connected earlier) is transferred to the second. Everything is packed in a box and closed.

Photo - the principle of operation of the walk-through model

Be sure to isolate all contacts, otherwise they will short. Many experts recommend using contact soldering - it is more reliable and more durable than electrical tape.