Why did the hydrangea large-leaved not bloom. Difficulties in adaptation: the shrub does not take root in any way

Hydrangea - beautiful flower, which will decorate any landscape. They are different kind but they are all flowering plants.

The right one will allow you to enjoy flowering for many years.

Many summer residents grow large-leaved hydrangea, and oddly enough, it may not bloom for a long time.

So why is the hydrangea not blooming? Let's look at a number of reasons.

Why is the hydrangea not blooming?

1. Choose a variety of hydrangea suitable for your area, as some species are short term summers in the northern regions simply do not have time to lay flower buds.
2. That large-leaved hydrangea, that paniculate or tree-like may not bloom due to insufficient development of the root system, a plant too young to bloom.
3. If you have large-leaved hydrangea constantly cut off the upper part of last year's shoots due to frost damage, and besides, suddenly you do it wrong, then hydrangeas will not bloom or flowering will be scarce. Explore.
4. Insufficient attention to the protection of hydrangeas from frost will entail the following question: “Why does the hydrangea not bloom?”. Because in the fall, flower buds are laid for the next year, and if the frost protection is removed too early in the spring, the buds can be damaged, the shoots will freeze, which will affect flowering.

Hydrangea shelter for the winter

In general, hydrangea winters well, but the question is whether it will bloom.

As you already know (from the topic) flowering occurs on last year's shoots, so you shouldn't worry so much about covering the roots, it's better to think about the top:

• in autumn, at the end of September, frosts may come, but is the hydrangea still flowering? Then cover the bushes with a double layer of lutrasil or a layer of lutrasil and a layer of greenhouse film. It is too early to hide the bushes for the winter;
• in the second half of October, while the ground has not yet frozen, cover the hydrangeas, while cutting off the inflorescences, but leaving the upper part of the faded shoots with large buds;
• young plants can be covered with earth or peat (the flowers will be blue), bending the branches to the ground;
• when the plant is already an adult (5-7 years old), bending its branches to the ground, they can be broken. To prevent this, you can put stones at the base of the bush under the bend of the branches, then make a pillow from spruce branches or needles, bend the branches, make a leafy pillow again and put boards, bricks, stones on top, without injuring the plant, fix it with a rope. Next, cover with earth, making an embankment in the central part (spud). In the spring, partially remove this mound. To rejuvenate the hydrangea bush at the end of flowering, all thick and old branches can be cut out, leaving young and last year's shoots that can be bent to the ground;
• do not rush to remove the shelter in the spring;
• after removing the shelter, do not rush to take on the pruning of seemingly dry and lifeless branches, the buds on them can come to life even in the month of May, the main thing is abundant watering. Start pruning no earlier than May - the first decade of June;
• do not hide lutrasil until June, the leaves that appear after the winter or cracked buds will need to be covered for a week or more, as required by mother nature.

Hydrangeas do not bloom due to lack of top dressing

Be sure to carry out top dressing with complex fertilizer at the beginning of budding and in early September before the end of flowering, the beginning of laying flower buds.

When buying a hydrangea, pay attention to the presence of buds, they should not be, as this is a sign of artificial stimulation of flowering ( drip irrigation with fertilizer), which in the next 1-2 years will affect the lack of flowering of the bush, or even worse, the plant will die. Therefore, after planting, it is not necessary to drastically change the growing conditions of the plant, let it adapt, apply fertilizer every 2 weeks for 2 months, gradually accustoming root system work independently extract nutrients from the ground.

In order for such hydrangeas to bloom in the future and build up a secondary root system, they must be mixed at a distance of 20-25 cm when planting garden soil with the substrate, avoiding a sharp change in the soil structure.

Heiress of the Far Eastern natural species and breeding novelties of the European collection, hydrangea (Hydrangea), as this flower is called in botanical atlases, is represented in domestic floriculture by several varieties resistant to cool summers and harsh winters:

Among them there are no evergreen forms. Sometimes, for wintering, individual varieties have to be transplanted into pots and brought into the room, but minus temperature up to 10 ◦ C, and even -25 ◦ C, some of the hydrangeas (for example, paniculata) endure with reliable shelter.

When planting in a row, an interval of 1.5 meters is prudently laid on the growth of a bush, but it happens that the bushes grow up to 2.5 m in diameter (with good lighting), covered with a cap of inflorescences - each the size of a human head. Here you can not do without supports and props.

A year after planting, the flower, if properly cared for, forms a spectacular bush of 5-7 inflorescences, which, with a total height of up to 2 meters and above, is a serious application for a decorative accent in the garden.

It blooms by the middle of summer, when there are more sunny days, and at night it is relatively warm..The bush blooms by September-October, repeating this cycle up to 30-50 times. For 8 years of life, the mother plant is able to give numerous offspring - up to 50 basal cuttings.

ATTENTION: The aroma is noticeable only in warm sunny weather, it is inferior in strength to its southern relatives. Will not please with aroma and flowering plant, located in the shade, in the cool environment of the northern summer.

Photo of plants

Here you can see photos of blooming hydrangeas.

reproduction

Reproduction of hydrangea is most often carried out by cuttings. prepared from flexible basal shoots (up to 3 internodes 7-8 cm in size). suitable for breeding and stem cuttings, which are buried in the substrate (peat and sand) at t◦20◦С and humidity - 80%.

5-6 weeks are enough for rooting, after which the plants are planted in pots or soil. In pots, seedlings can overwinter, cleaned in the basement. Flowering attempts in the first year are interrupted.

By dividing the bush, they are propagated in the spring, transplanting the “dividings” into prepared places. One-year-old layers can also give life to a new plant, if they are bent down and dug, leaving the top of the shoot on the surface.

Grafting is occasionally used for varietal changes. Its implementation requires special knowledge and skills, therefore, in home gardening not used. Growing hydrangeas from seeds is a very time-consuming task, and therefore not popular.

The hydrangea growing cycle consists of:

• reproduction (cutting, layering, dividing the bush, grafting and seeds);
• summer care for her (watering, top dressing, pruning, mulching);
• rest period (from October to March - wintering);
• spring forcing (depending on the purpose) for one-year-olds - 5-10cm (potted), 5-30cm (ground); a plant wintering in the basement can be put up for forcing as early as February.

How to properly care?

Summer care

• regular watering (every 7 days - 20-30 liters) with rain or settled water, in the heat - more often;
• weeding, loosening (to a depth of 10 cm) and mulching of the root circle (up to 3 times per season);
• nitrogenous fertilizer of the bush during the budding period (spring) and potash fertilizer - at the time of flowering (summer), with a regularity of 1 time in 2 weeks;
• sanitary and from 4 years old - formative pruning in open ground, in order to rejuvenate the bush and stimulate flowering;
• maintenance period - spring-autumn;
• preparation for the dormant period: removing leaves, tying the bush into a bundle, high hilling, establishing support for covering material - spruce branches, film, lutrasil;
• in severe winters, cover the entire structure with snow;
• planting or transplanting new plants into a prepared pit of 50x50 and a depth of the same; soil composition in equal proportions: turf, sand, humus and peat;
• in the first year, the expected growth of stems is 20-30 cm.

ADVICE: Create supporting fences around the bush to protect the stems from lodging under the weight of large inflorescences.

peace

The rest period for hydrangeas in a mild warm climate does not require any protective measures.: trimming and tying in bundles only. After a snowy winter, with the beginning of sap flow and bud germination, the stems should be gradually opened during the day, airing the bush, lifted from the shelter, tied up vertically, protecting from sunburn.

All parts of the growing hydrangea are considered poisonous because they contain cyanogenic glycoids, but in traditional medicine root extract is used as a tonic, wound healing, diuretic and analgesic.

Necessary conditions for flowering

Among gardeners, there are two opinions on the cultivation of hydrangeas: unpretentious plant, and - quite capricious. They are based on the right and wrong choice of landing site.

After all, growth inhibition, scarcity of flowering, damage by chlorosis or powdery mildew- a consequence of unsuccessful placement of the bush, or the choice of soil composition. The plant can also suffer from an excess of gardener love: excessively flooded or “fed” with fertilizers.

Optimal conditions for growth:

1. Well-lit high ground above the horizon ground water where there is no direct sun, but partial shade is formed.
2. Natural or artificial protection from constant winds and heavy rainfall.
3. Podzolic soils and nutritious loams; acidity is not higher than pH4.5-5.
4. Constant moisture of the earthen coma.
5. The temperature background is not lower than +12◦С.
6. Regular removal of weeds and shoots from the root circle.
7. Formative cutting.
8. Proper winter preparation.

IMPORTANT: In areas with alkaline soil, artificial acidifiers are used for the well-being of the bush: lemon or oxalic acid(30 ml per bucket of water), and even battery electrolyte (1 ml per liter of water).

Watch the video about the conditions for lush flowering hydrangeas:

The ability to influence color is a rare gift of nature to man.

The beauty of the spherical inflorescences of hydrangea is provided by sterile four-petal flowers, bordering nondescript small fertile ones. From the latter is formed boll, they are honey plants, but barren flowers, similar to moths, cause admiration.

At the very beginning of flowering, regardless of the variety, they all have a light green color. Only with time does it become obvious what color the panicles will be.

A palette of blooming hydrangeas: from chaste white and pale beige through all shades of pink to delicate tones of lilac, blue and blue. It's hard to believe but the color of the inflorescences is determined by the acidity and the content of chemical elements in the soil:

• the presence of Al or Fe in the form of alum guarantees all shades of blue;
• on slightly alkaline soils, sterile flowers will have a pink (natural) color;
• the change in color is also facilitated by the introduction of peat.

ATTENTION: Commercially available harmless chemical compositions, capable of changing the color of inflorescences, with greater or lesser intensity according to the amount of the applied substance.

This treatment is carried out during the beginning of the growing season. Regular use of additives gives the unambiguity of the color of the panicles, irregular - a manifestation of two-color.

Special hybrids of hydrangeas have been bred that can change color and very easily “repaint” in the desired color - “NikkoBlue”, “Blaumeise”, etc. Snow-white varieties are the most difficult to change color, at best, their inflorescences can acquire a slightly pink tint. Influencing color samples, you can get complex shades of red and blue - lilac, purple.

This feature of influencing the color of hydrangea inflorescences was discovered by people experimentally a long time ago: they buried rusty objects up to the bush or watered the plant with rusty water.

How to prolong the joy of admiring?

A flowering bush pleases the eye for several months, inflorescences cut for a bouquet stand in water for 2 weeks. But the desire to prolong the flowering time prompted florists to preserve blooming hydrangeas different ways up to a year. This is drying.

Such a flower will stand in a floristic composition for a year, without losing color, but then it will fade anyway.

Cut flowers for drying at the end of the season when fertile flowers begin to actively bloom, and sterile ones change color, withering. It is very difficult to catch this moment: hurry up - the flowers will dry for a very long time to the detriment of beauty, if you are late - they will turn from colored to brown. Plucking of faded flowers is also not welcome, which can provoke the withering of the entire panicle.

IMPORTANT: Hydrangea does not tolerate drought, but excess moisture is harmful to it. Fungal diseases appear from it, roots can rot. A weakened plant is a home for aphids, mites and nematodes.

Watch a video about drying methods:

Why does it not bloom in the garden and what should be done in such cases?

This is perhaps the most important disappointment of the grower. Well, in the first year - of course, it's too early for her. And then? The reason may be in:

• incorrectly selected variety for this region;
• artificial stimulation of a pre-sale copy, as can be seen from the emerging buds;
• a sharp change in the substrate in which the purchased plant was located, and garden soil;
• lack of development of the root system;
• early release of the bush in the spring from the frost cover;
• frost damage to the upper bud buds;
• improper pruning of stems, with the removal of flower buds;
• constant stay of the plant in the shade;
• the absence of a complex of dressings.

The correct determination of the causes will help to correctly eliminate them, and wait for the solemn moment: the lush flowering of the hydrangea bush.

Often gardeners ask why is the hydrangea not blooming?

To answer this question, you must first figure out which of its varieties grows in your garden. Despite the fact that many articles have been written about hydrangeas, there is still confusion on this issue.

And if you can determine which hydrangea is growing in you, you will know what to expect from it.

First of all, I want to say that there are several types of garden hydrangeas that grow successfully in middle lane. They differ from each other in the shape of the inflorescence, color and, most importantly, their winter hardiness.

Tree and paniculate hydrangeas

Hydrangea

The most famous and most winter-hardy are tree and paniculate hydrangeas. The inflorescences of these varieties are mostly white, but now breeders have created many varieties with pink flowers.

These types of hydrangeas bloom every year, because their flowering does not depend on how well the plant overwintered. They bloom on young shoots, that is, those that have grown in the new season.

Hydrangea paniculata

Tree-like and paniculate hydrangeas are pruned at the end of the season, as a result of which more powerful shoots and large inflorescences are obtained the next year.

Hydrangea macrophylla

Large-leaved hydrangea is a hydrangea with pink and blue flowers. Its fundamental difference from the paniculate and treelike is that it blooms on the last year's shoots, and its flower buds are located at the ends of these shoots.

And this is what happens - if a large-leaved hydrangea is cut off or it freezes in winter, then there will be no flowering.

I want to draw your attention to the fact that varieties of large-leaved hydrangeas have different winter hardiness. There are some of them that do not winter in the open field at all, even with good shelter. They are grown as houseplants. Such hydrangeas are already sold in spring with bright and large inflorescences.

At the same time, there are varieties of large-leaved hydrangeas that winter with shelter. In the spring they are usually Sold still small and without flowers.

Be careful when buying hydrangeas, as not all consultants are competent enough in this matter.

What to do if the large-leaved hydrangea does not bloom?

• Cover the hydrangea in time - before the onset of frost. She is usually covered earlier than roses. In the spring, do not rush to remove the shelter, do it only when the frosts are over.
• Do not prune large-leaved hydrangea, as it blooms on last year's shoots. Do not shorten the ends of the shoots, even if they do not fit under the winter shelter, they have flower buds at their ends.
• Carefully pick up hydrangea bushes. Try to bend the branches to the ground so that in winter they are under the snow. Even if the bush itself winters well, and the flower buds on the tops of the shoots freeze, then there will be no flowering.
• If the hydrangea still does not bloom, then continue to care for it. In order for the shoots to ripen better, feed it with special fertilizer for hydrangeas.

If you do everything right, then next year the hydrangea will bloom.

Nowadays, breeders have created varieties of large-leaved hydrangeas that bloom twice a summer - first on old shoots, and then on the shoots of the current year. It is best to choose them, because if a bush of this variety freezes in winter, then it will still bloom on new shoots, but closer to the month of August.

Hydrangea varieties that bloom twice a season - "Endless Summer", "You and Me", "Together Forever".

Good luck in all your endeavors, dear friends!

A plant that gardeners are always happy to see on their plots is hydrangea. At least 70 varieties of this plant are known, but only 30 varieties are considered cultivated. In the bulk garden hydrangea bushy. Some species form into small trees. Wild plant species can be seen in North America, parts of China, Korea, Japan, the Himalayan Islands and the Philippines.

For the most part, plants are not demanding for care, but even here there are rules that ensure abundant flowering. It often happens that the buds that appear simply fall off, for no particular reason. All this indicates a violation of the techniques for maintaining and caring for the plant. About the reasons for the lack of color and the correct maintenance of plants in more detail below.

plant description

Hydrangea is a plant that belongs to the Hortensia family. Often, plants grow as trees, shrubs, but can be presented in the form of vines. Flowering collected in a ball, presented small flowers, have no fragrance.

Most gardeners prefer to grow deciduous types of hydrangeas. Such varieties usually begin to bloom in the first month of summer and continue to delight with lush bright color until late autumn. The flower of the plant is a lush large inflorescence. Depending on the species, the inflorescence may be paniculate, corymbose or spherical.

garden hydrangea

In inflorescences, several types of flowers can be combined. The middle part of the flowering consists of small flowers, the rest are located along the edge, they are more visible. A hydrangea flower bouquet can contain various tint colors: cream, white, blue, pink, red and all shades of lilac.

Interesting is the fact that the pH level of the soil can help change the color of the inflorescences. In neutral soil, the plant can bloom in cream, beige and other neutral colors. The earth, saturated with alkali, gives pink and lilac shades. The increased acidity of the soil can cause the bright blue color of the inflorescences to appear.

Hydrangea does not bloom, what to do

You can often hear from gardeners that garden hydrangea does not bloom, the reasons for which are not known. There are several factors that explain why hydrangeas do not bloom in the garden.

Factors affecting flowering:

1. The location of shrubs in a shady area and improper pruning - all this does not help the plant of any variety to bloom;
2. Bad weather is bad for kidney development, which is considered important nuance. This problem is more typical for plant varieties with a large leaf. This is due to the peculiarity of the location of the buds, which are laid on the upper shoots that appeared in the past year. Such flowering determines the full shelter of the shoots on winter time, make it important to save all the flower buds.

Achieving a hydrangea tree to give abundant color is not difficult.

If garden hydrangea does not bloom, what to do:

• Timely and properly nourish the plant. Hydrangea needs feeding organic matter, but it should be remembered that it is useful to apply a limited amount of fertilizer. If you overdo it with fertilizer, lush flowering can be unsuccessfully expected. long periods. It is best to fertilize in small quantities, while nitrogen fertilizer should be used once a year - in the spring;
• Quality soil. Loose, slightly acidic soil is necessary for the full formation of buds and their intensive flowering. It is important to enrich the soil with humus. Soil mulching is another important process for flowering;
• When planting flowers, you need to remember the love of culture for scattered sunshine. The location of shrubs in shady areas is another reason why hydrangeas do not bloom in the garden. You can make the culture delight with lush buds in open sunny areas, but such flowering will not last long, due to the rapid burning of the petals. The sprawling crown and foliage of walnuts will not create any special problems in this process;
• The usefulness of the plant directly depends on the power of the roots. The faster the root system forms, the sooner the first buds with flowers will appear;
• Proper soil fertilization. Hydrangea does not tolerate heavily fertilized soil, in which case the leaf will grow and strengthen, but the plant itself will definitely not bloom.

To speed up the process of the appearance of inflorescences, you need to fertilize the soil several times according to the scheme:

1. Apply a nitrogen-based fertilizer in late spring. Thus, it is possible to improve the vegetation of the crop;
2. When flowering plants are fertilized in the summer several times. Introduce a universal mixture for garden plants;
3. To strengthen the shoots, nourish the plant before the winter cold, the hydrangea is fertilized with the advent of autumn.

Hydrangea does not bloom, what to do

It is impossible to determine exactly when the culture will first begin to produce bright buds. This process is influenced by many factors, such as the composition of the earth and its qualitative characteristics, illumination, and even the frequency and amount of soil moisture. Any deviation can explain why the blue hydrangea does not bloom in the garden. Bringing the desired indicators back to normal should help the appearance of flower buds.

Worth remembering! For the appearance of the first inflorescences, young shrubs with underdeveloped roots and excessive organic fertilizer need several years. In this case, the development and formation of powerful roots is suspended. Compliance with all the rules will contribute to the continuation of flowering culture until the first frost.

How to prepare a plant for the cold

Hydrangea is a heat-loving plant, it does not tolerate cold. Her preparation for winter period should be done before other cultures. Freezing of the kidneys should not be allowed, as this will lead to the absence of beautiful inflorescences. Preparation should begin immediately after flowering.

Already in autumn, the shrubs are freed from the deciduous part, the branches are collected to a heap and covered with any warming material. Next, the bushes need to be tilted slightly to the ground and covered with coniferous branches. You can use any method of hiding. The main thing is to save the plant from frost and not break the branches. The roots can be covered with a large layer of coniferous mulch. When the frosts recede, and spring comes fully, the plant is returned to its normal position and opened.

Pruning is best done in the spring. In preparation for winter, only faded buds are removed. For particularly heat-loving varieties, pruning can be done before sheltering the branches for the winter. It is best to prune the branches before the first buds and leaves appear. When rejuvenating old shrubs, pruning is best done in early spring. In general, you should focus on the characteristics of hydrangea varieties.

Hydrangea varieties

tree hydrangea

Most representatives of the culture are shrubs. Although a tree-like small variety and creepers are also popular. They are characterized by large and small leaves, paniculate or corymbose type of inflorescences. In any case, the inflorescences are located on the tops of the shoots.

tree hydrangea

Representatives of the species are bushes growing up to 150 cm in height. Usually the view is large-leaved, the length of individual leaves can reach 20 cm. The leaf plate is slightly lowered down, has a heart-shaped notch and notches along the edge. Top part the leaf is green, and the bottom is a bluish hue.

The following varieties are considered bright demanding representatives of the species:

• White House is a shrub whose height varies from 1 to 1.5 m. It has large thyroid inflorescences;
• Invincibell Spirit - maximum height- 1.2 m. Large inflorescences consist of sterile flowers. Initially, the color of the buds is bright pink, then it can fade to light pink;
• Incrediball - differs in large and lush inflorescences of spherical shape, white;
• Hyes Starburst - low bushes with thin shoots. Often branches break under the weight of large flower buds. Terry flowers, their diameter in some cases reaches 25 cm;
• Annabelle - has white, sterile inflorescences, up to 20 cm in diameter.

Paniculate view

Main difference paniculate hydrangeas from treelike - inflorescences. The buds consist of a combination of large sterile and small fertile blooms that can grow up to 25 cm in length. During the flowering process, the buds can change color more than once. The foliage of this type of culture is large, may have an ovoid or elliptical shape. Flowering usually falls in the transitional period from June to July.

Popular representatives of the species:

• Vanilla fraze - can grow up to 2 m in height. Inflorescences have a strawberry-pink color;
• Phantom - the bushes are distinguished by spreading crowns, it grows at least 2.5 m. The first inflorescences appear in cream shades, then they begin to turn pink;
• Pinky Winky - maximum height - 1.8 m. The inflorescences are an openwork purple-pink bud;
• Limelight - at the beginning of flowering, the buds are greenish in color, which at the end radically change color to pink.

Paniculate view

Despite the relatively simple requirements for the content of the culture, there are rules, the observance of which affects the quantity and quality of flowering.

1. Moderate fertilizer of hydrangeas with mineral and organic (dung mixture, humus) substances is mandatory. You need to fertilize the bushes without fanaticism;
2. It is worth watering the plant with water with an acidity of not more than 5.6 pH. We must not forget that the culture loves moisture, so the soil should not be allowed to dry out;
3. Be sure to loosen the ground at least 3 times per season. The depth of loosening should be from 5 cm;
4. It is best to cut the shoots in the spring, after the buds swell. In order for the bushes to winter well, young shoots are cut to 4 buds. To renew old bushes, they are cut at the root.

It often happens that a gardener buys a flowering hydrangea in a container, plants it in the ground - and it dries out, the flowers wither. Or after wintering, the hydrangea does not bloom - neither in the first, nor in the second, nor in the third year. Why is the hydrangea not blooming? How can you help the plant? Let's figure it out.

Why hydrangea does not bloom: typical mistakes of gardeners

Most of all, there are problems with large-leaved hydrangea (garden, marcophila, large-leaved), since not all varieties of this tender plant adapted to our conditions. Large-leaved hydrangea will be discussed.

Freezing buds on hydrangeas

Large-leaved hydrangea blooms on the shoots of the current year, the buds are laid on the tops of the shoots in the fall. If you cover the hydrangea too late, or open it too early, the buds will freeze and the hydrangea will not bloom. What can (and should) be done? Cover hydrangea for the winter. The leaves remaining on the bush are cut off, the bush itself is pulled together with a tourniquet, wrapped with covering material and film. Mulch is poured around the bush - dry leaves, straw. With the advent of frost, the hydrangea is bent to the ground, fixed with staples, covered with spruce branches. In the spring, the hydrangea is opened gradually, finally ridding it of shelter with the departure of night frosts, that is, until the beginning of summer.

Incorrect hydrangea pruning

If you shredded the shoots of a large-leaved hydrangea in spring or autumn, is it any wonder why the hydrangea does not bloom. We remind you once again - hydrangea blooms on the shoots of last year, in the upper part of the shoots.

Incorrect feeding of hydrangeas

If the hydrangea is overfed with nitrogen fertilizers, the plant may not have time to become stiff by the arrival of frost, and, again, will not survive the winter. Therefore, to feed hydrangeas, like most garden plants, remember one simple rule: in late spring and early summer we apply nitrogen fertilizers (for green growth), in summer - potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (to maintain flowering), at the end of summer - phosphorus fertilizers ( to help the hydrangeas overwinter, preserving the shoot buds for flowering next year).

Problems with growth and acclimatization of the root system

First of all, this is the problem of large-leaved hydrangeas, which were planted from containers in open ground. It often turns out that sellers of hydrangeas feed the plant with top dressing to give it a lush flowering, organizing drip irrigation. Such a hydrangea has a poorly developed root system - it was not used to getting its own food with its roots, but got everything prepared with fertilizers, and on special soil. And when you plant it in your garden, a spoiled plant is not able to absorb nutrients with its weak roots, and dies before our eyes. Without emergency measures, such a hydrangea will not only not bloom - it may even disappear altogether.

What to do in this case? Correct the "disservice" of sellers and gradually wean the hydrangea from bait. Firstly, container flowering hydrangeas do not need to be cut off the roots, as is often advised, they do not need to be soaked or shake off the substrate. The plant already spends a lot of energy on flowering, and under such conditions, the development of the hydrangea root system will no longer be extended. Wither away.

Secondly, for the first two months, still feed, gradually reducing the dose.

Thirdly, when preparing the hydrangea planting hole, make sure that the place will be shaded at noon, otherwise the garden hydrangea may not withstand the heat, and even heavy watering will not help. In the hole, you need to add a mixture of soil from your garden with a nutrient substrate from a container of hydrangeas, and in an area of ​​\u200b\u200bnot less than 20 cm from the roots of the hydrangea. Thus, you will help the hydrangea adapt to new conditions.

Hydrangea variety is not suitable for climatic conditions

Large-leaved hydrangeas have recently begun to be planted in open ground in our area, new varieties appear all the time, which are praised and convinced that there are no problems with care. And then buyers, especially from the northern regions of the country, cannot understand why the hydrangea does not bloom. It is sad, but even if all agrotechnical practices are followed, greenhouse hydrangea seedlings do not always have time to lay buds for the next year during the warm season (if the summer is short). As a result, we get a chic green bush, but the hydrangea does not bloom.

Don't rush the hydrangea - let it develop a strong root system that can feed the color. In paniculate hydrangeas, this period takes about 6 years. In addition, hydrangea can bloom simply because of insufficient watering, bad place, heavy soils, diseases and pests. Just carefully study the rules for caring for hydrangeas, choose a non-capricious variety (if you are a beginner) - and you will definitely succeed!