In what soil to plant cherries. Sweet cherry garden: how to prepare and plant a tree in spring

Choose the sunniest place for the cherries and protected from the northerly winds. Purchase seedlings from a nursery or specialist market. Plant in early spring. If you fulfill these three conditions, then the successful cultivation of cherries is guaranteed to you.

The best time to plant cherries is early spring (before the buds swell). On the May holidays, when, as a rule, the buds are already blooming, trees cannot be planted. Such novices are very sick, they do not take root well. It is undesirable to plant cherries in the fall because of the danger of freezing of strong annual growths, which are sometimes more than a meter in one-two-year-old seedlings.

We have already mentioned that all northern cherries are self-fertile, therefore, for pollination on the site, 2-3 trees of different varieties must be planted. Contrary to some recommendations, cherries may not be a good pollinator for sweet cherries.

Purchase, purchase of cherry seedlings

Purchase cherry seedlings better in autumn, since it is at this time that there is a rich selection of varieties. They need to be dug in for the winter, and in early spring (in April) they should be planted right through the mud.

Buying planting material, remember that all winter-hardy cherry varieties are obtained by grafting. It is not difficult to find it on the barrel. Do not forget that seed-grown trees do not retain varietal qualities and may have small, tasteless berries.

Both annual and biennial cherry seedlings are equally suitable for planting. The main thing is that they have a well-developed root system. The height of one-year-olds should be 70-80 cm, two-year-olds - about a meter.

After purchase, the roots should be wrapped with a damp cloth, and on top with foil. In this form, the seedlings will easily tolerate transportation. Otherwise, the trees may suffer from dehydration.

However, even before purchasing seedlings, it is necessary to prepare a place for planting cherries. You already know that it should be the warmest and lightest in the garden, protected from the north winds. Sweet cherries are also demanding on humidity, but they do not tolerate stagnant water even for a short period. Therefore, it cannot be planted in areas with a close occurrence of groundwater.

The soil should be fertile, loose, moisture-permeable, of the type - light medium loamy or sandy loam. When planting in spring, it is prepared in the fall. The structure of heavy clay, peaty or sandy soil is improved by adding clay or sand. At the same time, 8-10 kg of rotted manure or compost and 150-200 g of any complex mineral fertilizer per 1 m2 are introduced for digging. If the soil is acidic, lime is added in late autumn (approximately 400-500 g / m2).

Planting holes are dug 60-80 cm wide and 50-60 cm deep at a distance of 3-4 m. The walls are made vertical (without narrowing downwards). A planting stake is driven into the bottom and a nutrient mixture is poured from the upper fertile soil layer, 10-15 kg of humus, 50-60 g of potassium sulfate, 100-120 g of superphosphate. Nitrogen fertilizers and lime are not applied to avoid root burns. A third of the hole is filled with a nutrient mixture, a mound is made in the center and sprinkled with fertile soil without fertilizers.

Inspect the seedlings before planting. If they dry out a little during transportation, immerse them in water for 6-8 hours. In the hole, the seedling is placed on a mound and the roots are covered in half, shaking so that there are no voids. Then a bucket of water is poured out and covered completely.

It should be planted so that there is no deepening of the root collar. To do this, during planting, the seedling is raised by 4-5 cm. Later, when the soil settles, the root collar will be at the level of the soil. Around the planted tree, the soil is compacted with a foot, a hole is made with a roller and another bucket of water is poured. After the hole is sprinkled with peat or humus. The seedling is tied to the stake with a figure of eight twine so that it is not swayed by the wind.

Sweet cherry is a favorite delicacy of children and adults. But those who want to enjoy a good harvest own production must work very carefully. Only strict adherence to standard requirements makes it possible to exclude all kinds of problems when planting and growing horticultural crops.

Landing dates

Cherry loves warmth, so it is recommended to plant it in the middle lane in the spring. Then there will be the least chance of incidents in a sudden collision with cold weather. Only in regions with a milder climate, planting cherries in the autumn months is permissible. But even in this case, you need to be vigilant.

If you plant the plants after setting frost and persistent cooling of the upper soil layer, there is simply no chance of success.

Still, experienced gardeners should take the risk and plant a tree from mid-September to the last days of October. Since the seedlings are calm at this time, they will not form flowers and leaves. All forces will concentrate as much as possible on engraftment. If suddenly it did not work out before November to plant a seedling in free land, it remains to dig it in and fully plant it in the spring. The autumn planting also has such a clear advantage as a reduction in prices in retail chains.

V central Russia cherries are planted from late March to mid-April. Ural and Siberian gardeners will have to wait for May. In the Far East in good year the last days of April can also be used. Landing on the shores of the Baltic Sea is also recommended not earlier than April 23-25. But the south is an exception to the rule, Krasnodar and Rostov gardeners must plant cherries until about half of autumn.

Choosing a place

Having dealt with the timing of planting cherries, you need to find out exactly where it should be planted. A thermophilic crop should be placed in a sunny place without a single shade. Both a slight elevation and a slope with a slight slope are allowed. But in both cases, the place should be such that drafts do not fall, especially cold winds from the north. If the site is flat like a table, you can organize an artificial embankment using a soil shaft 0.4-0.5 m in height.

The best results are achieved by many summer residents when planting close to the southern walls of houses. As for the land, it is recommended to use relatively moist soil with good fertility, it is allowed to plant sweet cherries on light soil that can warm up well and let air through. But heavy clay and peat soils are not suitable in principle. In such conditions, the tree, instead of full development, will be forced to continuously struggle for survival.

A high rise of groundwater is unacceptable, since the stagnation of liquid near the root is extremely detrimental to the fruit crop.

How to plant?

In any step by step guide on the cultivation of cherries, it is indicated that in the central part of Russia, and even more so in places with a more severe climate, it is necessary to plant only in spring. This not only allows the plant to harden better, but also gives the gardener an additional chance to control the development of the tree. It is imperative to select only those varieties that are officially zoned for a particular area. All other types, no matter how they are touted in the reviews, no matter how beautiful pictures are given on the labels, do not deserve attention.

It is critical for cherry seedlings to reduce the air temperature to -2 degrees. Especially serious consequences can occur when such a cold snap sets in abruptly after a thaw, and the plants are not sufficiently resistant to winter. It is recommended in such a situation to maintain the cherry plantations due to the smoke of fires.

Before planting this culture, you need to thoroughly think over such subtleties as:

• soil structure;
• the duration of lighting during the day and its power;
• wind rose on the ground.

There are no special adapted varieties for the environs of St. Petersburg and other northwestern regions of Russia. But the experience of gardeners shows that the most resistant to cold and other unfavorable conditions Ural and Siberian varieties. Before disembarking, the land is supposed to be completely dug up in 14-20 days. Additionally, you can enhance its fertile properties by introducing 10 kg of humus per 1 m2. If planting is planned in the spring, then both preparations are done in the fall, sometimes even tree holes are prepared in advance.

Correction of the clay mass of the soil is made with sand. Such an improvement has been carried out for several years in a row, only then can cherries be planted.

• walnut;
• peach;
• pears;
• rowan;
• black currant.

The gap between trees must be at least 4 m, because root system not just developed, but directly at the surface. There is no point in acquiring seedlings of the third year of development, they still will not take root. A very important point is protection from birds. A common recommendation from gardeners is to use aluminum foil tape or unnecessary laser discs. But such methods are not effective enough. It is much better to form a grid with square cells 5x5 cm in advance. It is thrown over the cherries when the fruits ripen. It is best to wait for a stable warming up of +5 degrees for planting. It will also be nice to make sure that a decent supply of moisture remains in the ground.

Usually mid-April is chosen, but at the same time the buds should not have time to open. The narrowing of the planting holes in the lower part is categorically unacceptable. The size of the recess is selected in such a way as to guarantee the free position of the root complex. The stake for holding the seedling should be up to 0.8 m high.

The saturation of the pit in the lower third is done by the combination:

• 2 shares of the upper earth mass;
• 1 share of humus;
• 1 share of peat.

To improve the practical characteristics of the mixture, the addition of 0.1 kg of superphosphate and 0.05 kg of potassium sulphide is practiced. An alternative would be to mix 20 kg of compost with 1 kg of wood ash and 0.4 kg of superphosphate. But the use of nitrogen fertilizers is equally unacceptable, they can provoke burns on the roots. The prepared compositions are laid out in pits 10 days before disembarkation and made as homogeneous as possible, then the mass is waiting for the sedimentation. When selecting a seedling, the strength of its trunk is certainly evaluated, which should dominate the branches going sideways.

Whatever the sellers and "experts" may say, it is stupid to buy a seedling with a trunk split in two. Covered in heavy fruits, it often breaks. It is useful to look at the root cut: a brown tint indicates freezing. To speed up the work of the root complex after planting, you need to place the seedling in the last 24 hours in front of it in a bucket filled with water.

It is imperative to get rid of all deformed roots, as well as from excessively long ones - they will interfere with penetration.

Before planting, it is worth removing any leaf. As beautiful as it is, the bad thing is that the seedling can lose water. The planting itself begins by saturating the pit with a bucket of liquid. Having placed the seedling in a recess near the support, its neck is taken out 40-50 mm above the soil. The roots are certainly covered with soil. The layer is tamped down and the plant is fixed in place with adhesive tape, while the knot is made in the form of the number 8, taking care that the bark is not broken.

A circular groove is prepared on the outside of the pit, it will help to fully water the cherries. Then 20 liters of water are poured, and when the soil settles, they check whether the root collar remains on the surface. The main trunk is cut to 0.8 m, while the side branches must be shortened to 0.5 m. Only under this condition will it be possible to make a normal crown. For planting cherries, it is recommended to choose a cloudy, but not damp day.

Care

Water the tree 3 times during the growing season. The first time they do this is in May, when the green mass is developing rapidly. Watering is carried out as soon as it approaches, but flowering has not yet begun. The second time, the cherry must be supplied with liquid before the fruits ripen in June. And the third time - before the beginning of winter, so that the plant better survive the negative period for itself. You need to stop watering 20 days before picking the berries. Otherwise, they will be covered with cracks and may even rot.

Water should be poured to a depth of 400 mm. But you need to shed the earth before winter by 700-800 mm. Against the background of drought, of course, it will be necessary to increase the intensity of moisture. From the middle of July to the end of August, water additions only interfere with the cherries. They will not affect the cultivation, but they will reduce the susceptibility to cold weather. Top dressing for the first year is not practiced, because when the right technology the seedling initially received everything it needed at the time of planting, and if it is wrong, the additives are useless.

Only in the second season of life does the time come to introduce nitrogen-based fertilizers. This is done most often using urea. It is scattered along the outer border of a circle located near the trunk. In order for the fertilizer to achieve its goal, and not just be used, you will have to embed it a little in the ground. The amount of urea used is 0.12 kg, while you need to monitor whether the soil is dry.

In the fourth year of life, the roots leave the circle near the trunk. At this moment, you need to introduce fertilizers into special furrows. In the spring, add 0.1 kg of urea every year. When summer comes to an end, the same furrows are saturated with 0.1 kg of potassium sulfate and 0.4 kg of superphosphate. In the second year, the trunk circle needs to be grown to 1 m, in the future it adds 0.5 m annually.

It is recommended to additionally feed the cherries with ash; in any case, it will treat such an additive favorably. In addition to replenishing nutrients, it is important to think about not being absorbed by "rivals". In the near-trunk circle, there is absolutely no place for weeds, they must be removed until the beginning of autumn. Even the strongest and most resistant varieties of cherries are easily suppressed by weeds. And therefore, unwillingness to weed the ground closest to the tree can ruin even a very good start.

Cherries must be pruned in the summer, otherwise there is simply no chance of a good harvest. Besides summer pruning, the spring is still practiced, which is responsible for the formation of the treetop. As necessary, when the cherry is aging, a rejuvenating cut is carried out. In all three cases, it is required to remove branches located below 0.4 m from the ground.

Each place of the incision is supposed to be covered with a garden pitch.

Formative pruning for young trees is critical. It is necessary to be in time before the buds bloom to shorten the main trunk and upper branches by 1/3 in length. Be sure to remove all the branches that grow inward. Lateral shoots need to be left only when located at 45 degrees to the trunk. This is called a cupped trim.

Its benefits are:

• improving the illumination of the tree;
• accelerated formation of fruits;
• facilitating harvesting.

If the cherries do not ripen on time or develop somehow incorrectly, almost always the reason is that farmers are not good at looking after them. So, buds that have not bloomed in due time usually indicate the deepening of the root collar during planting. The tree sheds foliage and gets rid of ovaries if watering is untimely during the growing season. Cherry freezes out solely because a mistake was made with the choice of the variety. Only with systematic pruning, carried out at least once a year, can a uniform harvest be obtained.

When there are ovaries, but the fruit does not form, the reason is most likely a lack of cross-pollination. The outflow of gum and the death of cherries that occurred soon is provoked by planting on rocky ground and the presence of rubble in the soil. Also, similar manifestations can be associated with diseases. Watering plants with cold well water can provoke the appearance of a yellow or purple color on the leaves. And when the trunk is not cut off during planting, the possibility of lateral branching is lost.

Full care for cherries in the middle lane involves liming the soil every 3-4 years. For this, lime is introduced as early as possible in the spring, its concentration on light soil is limited to 0.35 kg per 1 sq. m. If the soil is heavy and dense, it must be fed with twice as much lime. It is scattered under trees and then buried deep, digging up the soil 0.2 m. This practice improves the absorption of nutrients and helps to form bones.

Most cherries grow well in the first four years with normal care. Sometimes even the annual growth can be 1.2 m. But the problem is that this young part does not have time to take shape and mature to the end. And when even relatively weak frosts come, it turns out to be defenseless against them. Summer pinching of shoots that have reached a length of 0.6-0.8 m helps to prevent such a development of events.When pruning, new shoots appear faster, which will definitely have time to cover protective layer before winter.

In addition to the strengthening effect, such a measure also contributes to the improvement decorative properties culture. Sweet cherries will possess lush crown, which is not originally typical for this plant. Once the crop is harvested, it is required to systematically weed the soil under the crown. Any weed, any fallen leaf or fruit must be harvested and removed outside the garden. Farmers who do not care about such matters very often face rotting damage to trees.

Cherry that is well prepared for winter is able to survive the cold even at -30 degrees. But with the onset of warm periods, accompanied by melting snow, you need to be prepared. The branches will have to be manually shaken off the snow mass. Otherwise, they can break or even completely collapse. What is dangerous for a plant - any gardeners understand without unnecessary explanations.

In the process of liming, in addition to "fluff" lime, ash and chalk can be used. If the earth is composed of sandy mass, dolomite flour is allowed. The exact concentration of the additive is calculated individually, focusing on the total acidity of the soil.

The combination of liming with additives is unacceptable:

• nitrogen mixtures;
• organic fertilizers;
• ammophos;
• superphosphate;
• ammonium nitrate.

The central conductor is deliberately limited over the tops of the skeletal branches. The maximum lift here is allowed no more than 150 mm. In the second year, you need to cut off the branches of the skeleton on the outer bud. Most often, the first tier is limited to three shoots. Further, lateral and simply too elongated shoots can be cut off so that exposure does not occur.

The optimal composition of the second tier is 2 branches. And the third (final) logically completes the formation of the crown with one of its branches. Later, any skeletal branch shoots sideways. If one of them is not needed to create a crown, it is reduced to 0.3 m.On two-year and three-year-old cherries in May, you need to bend the branches horizontally using different kinds load.

This technique contributes to the accelerated folding of the kidneys, from which fruits will then appear. But it is categorically unacceptable to bend the branches for the upper parts. Such a mistake will lead to the departure of all the fruitful force into new shoots. With the onset of autumn, any load or spacer is usually removed. Almost always, cherries have time to adapt themselves to the desired configuration and do not need support.

Trees that bear fruit should not form. Branches are cut on them only for health purposes and for thinning. First of all, shoots growing deeper into the crown are removed. Every dry and diseased branch should be cut without stumping. On grafted cherries, it is recommended to stop the root growth at the base.

A September potassium and phosphorus supplement helps reduce sensitivity to cold. For young trees, even this measure, together with charging irrigation, may not be enough. Then shelters are formed from old bags or coniferous spruce branches. It is worth completely abandoning artificial materials, because under them the cherries can swell.

Root cover is effectively provided with compost or peat, which is used as mulch.

Sprinkling is a protection against the return of frost. Both sprinklers and stationary irrigation systems can be used for it. In the absence of all this, a simple hose is used. It is important to have time to get ahead of the negative weather change by several hours. If the trunk is covered with longitudinal cracks, frost damage is evident. The bark, beaten by it, is carefully removed, but not around the whole circle, as this will end in the death of the cherry.

Frost damage is disinfected with copper sulfate at a concentration of 3%. After that, a garden var is used. The damaged area is poured with cement. To protect from the aggressive sun, the trunks and the lower points of the branches of the skeleton are whitened. Surrounding the cherry trunk with spruce branches also helps a lot.

Reproduction

Attempts to propagate cherries using the seed method give poorly predictable results. Such trees, by definition, will not retain the characteristics of the “parents”. Development will go on and, most likely, even its good speed will be achieved. But the final result will become clear only in the third or fourth year. It is not recommended to get carried away with grafting: even with the strictest observance technology 95% of cuttings cannot take root. Therefore, most often the cherry is propagated by grafting.

The varieties are considered optimal rootstocks:

• "Pink bottle";
• "Vladimirskaya";
• "Ruby";
• "VTs-13";
• "VSL-2".

It is necessary to prepare the cuttings in the fall, a snowfield is used for conservation, and in the absence of a simple refrigerator. Given the obligatory cross-pollination of cherries, cuttings need to be prepared from 2 or 3 varieties. For grafting, a modified copulation scheme is preferred, which is carried out in early spring. You just need to wait for the buds to become tight on the one-year-old rootstock. If the rootstock is poorly developed or if it is transplanted in the spring, it is necessary to postpone the procedure to the summer and choose a budding scheme.

Bone propagation should be chosen either by beginners or by constantly busy gardeners who always do not have enough time. The seeds can be planted from spring to autumn inclusive, you just need to separate them from the pulp. When planting in the spring, it requires the maturation stage after harvest. To do this, before planting, the seed is stored in moist sand or sawdust for 60-90 days. The thermal range of 14-18 degrees is maintained, before the start of such preparation, the bones must be in cold water approximately 96 hours.

When the seeds are stored, the humidity of the environment must be controlled. For 3 months, the bones are transferred to the basement, where the temperature is not higher than 6 degrees Celsius. In this basement, they germinate, as soon as this is achieved, the cherry material is placed on snow or ice. Seedlings prepared using this method can be moved to free land immediately upon the arrival of spring. If you want to plant cherry seeds in the fall, the approach should be slightly different.

Then the bones are first thoroughly washed and disinfected in an unsaturated solution of potassium permanganate. After this treatment, they are also placed in moist substrates (this time the choice arises between moss and sawdust). The prepared seed can be planted from the first days of October. More precise terms are chosen, taking into account the actual weather and readiness to work. Landing is carried out to a depth of 50 mm, while the gap from one hole to another should be from 200 to 250 mm.

No more than 5 cherry seeds are planted on each bed.

When it becomes clear which seeds survived the winter and sprouted, only the most developed ones are left among the shoots in order to get the optimal result. If, however, a vaccination is chosen, wild fruit trees second year of life. This technique allows you to achieve success with a probability of 100% and not rely on a lucky break. The grafting itself is carried out at the beginning of March, since it is very important to get ahead of the beginning of the movement of sap in the shoots. It is advisable to use paraffin so that the cuttings do not dry out too quickly. An alternative is to film them before bud formation.

Diseases and pests

Even after carefully selecting the site and variety, as well as planting according to all the rules, sometimes gardeners find that the cherries are drying out or damaged in some other way. This means that it has been attacked by pests or infected infectious diseases... Among diseases, bacteriosis is a particular danger - it is not without reason that it is also called bacterial cancer. Any organs of the tree, starting from the age of three, can be affected. The infection is manifested by the fact that gum flows from the ulcers on the branches.

Foliage is rarely affected, mainly already in the advanced stages of the disease, when it covers all new areas. Dying away, by half of the season, the diseased parts disappear altogether. If bacteriosis covers green berries, they become stained. brown tone gradually merging into one large black depression. Ulcers similar in appearance are found on the kidneys. It does not matter whether a particular bud is preserved until spring or not, it will still die off after opening.

The risk of bacteriosis is greatest when a damp, damp spring sets in. It is impossible to recognize in which kidneys and vessels the infection hibernates by their appearance. So far, agronomists do not know how to deal with cherry bacterial cancer. There is only a recommendation to thoroughly feed the plants with nitrogen and water it limitedly, without fanaticism. When the plant dies from this disease, it remains only to disinfect the soil, to withstand the prescribed pause and try to breed another, more resistant variety.

Of the fungal infections, the most serious challenge for gardeners is coccomycosis. In the first years, it destroys the crop, and gradually the whole plant dies. Infection manifests itself in summer leaf fall, sweet cherries cannot receive nutrition through photosynthesis. The only possible prevention is treatment with copper sulfate at the time of swelling of the kidneys and exposure to the Bordeaux mixture when pecking the petals.

It is very bad when the cherry is affected by rot, since even subtle manifestations of the disorder make the crop useless for food purposes.

Reproduction of spores can occur rapidly, sometimes 3-5 hours are enough for the complete death of the crop. But infection can be prevented by avoiding damage to the skin of the berries. Therefore, a very important point is to cover the cherries from birds and to fight harmful insects in a timely manner. Even if they just slightly violate the integrity of the fruit, rot will immediately strike a crushing blow. The fight against clusterosporosis is also carried out by preventing damage.

Moniliosis is also called gray rot, it is also a fungal disorder. Insufficiently experienced farmers may confuse the initial manifestations of the disease with sunburn. Anything that is struck will inevitably perish. All that remains is to cut off the infected areas of the branches plus the externally healthy area by at least 100 mm and burn it all. The cut is disinfected in this way: in order to exclude infection with moniliosis, trees are pre-treated with copper compounds.

Powdery mildew rarely attacks cherries in the fruiting phase, but if the trees are cuttings, it can collapse suddenly. The peculiarity of the external picture of the disease is explained by the name, but if the ailment is neglected, then the leaves dry, and the plaque becomes more gray. There are many drugs that can be bought in stores. Adherents of natural farming can use potassium permanganate or infusion of matured hay. But the effectiveness of such methods in the advanced phase of the disease is too low.

Observing all the recommendations described above, and even choosing the right pollinator varieties, you can still face serious problems when growing cherries. Therefore, you need to take into account other subtleties. So, the optimal place for a tree is south, southeast and southwest relative to the nearest buildings or large fences. It should be borne in mind that cherry can also act as a pollinator. But here it is already necessary to take into account the peculiarities of their relationship and get acquainted with the special literature on this score. Moisture-charging irrigation implies a consumption of 50-60 liters of water per 1 m2.

Help to fight birds:

• plastic bags;
• rotating structures;
• ultrasound systems;
• agricultural fiber nets that allow sunlight to pass through.

In the fall, at the time of digging, potash fertilizers must be introduced. The time for phosphorus compounds (also introduced in the fall) does not come before the fruits begin to form. When the plant reaches full fruiting, organic feeding is done in the amount of 8-10 kg per 1 sq. m. August fertilizing with nitrogen is unacceptable. It can be applied both dry and liquid.

It is good if the recharge is synchronized with soil loosening.

For information on how to plant cherries, see the next video.

Planting cherries, like any other fruit tree, has its own characteristics.

It can be held both in spring and autumn. therefore every gardener should be aware of the differences between these types of work.

For garden plots located in the south of Russia or in the Central region, the most preferable would be the autumn planting.

Its dates vary from mid-September to the end of October.

These terms are due to the fact that during this period, the trees are in a dormant stage, and all their forces will be directed to rooting in a new place, and not to flowering and foliage formation.

If the purchased seedling was not transplanted into open ground until the end of October, then on winter period it is buried in the ground and planted in the spring.

Spring planting is optimal for Siberia and other regions with a harsh and cold climate, usually this procedure is carried out from the end of April to the beginning of May.

V autumn period many seedling sellers offer discounts on their products. In addition, for those who have not yet decided on the choice of the variety, in the fall you can see the expected result and taste the fruits of various varieties.

As known, heavy rainfall in autumn, therefore, the gardener gets rid of the need to constantly water the planted tree and monitor the level of soil moisture.

Saplings planted in autumn will have time to build up young roots during the winter period... Because of this, they will begin to grow much faster than trees planted in spring.

In the southern regions autumn planting has many more benefits than spring planting... Because the risk of a sudden onset of heat is eliminated.

Young trees may not be prepared for the winter cold. Therefore, they can die due to too low temperatures, gusty winds or snowfalls.

It often happens that the tree survives after the winter season, but broken or frozen branches appear. Also, rodents, which gnaw the bark of a tree trunk, can pose a danger.

Simple rules for proper cultivation

Therefore, the seedlings bought in the fall can be dug into the ground before the onset of spring. For such a procedure, you need to dig a shallow hole into which the roots of the tree will fall at an angle of 45 degrees.

When purchasing several seedlings at once, they are tied together. When digging them into the ground, you need to make sure that the top is directed to the south.

When cold weather sets in, the tree must be protected from them. negative impact. The branches are covered with earth and snow, they will reliable protection from freezing. Also, to avoid sunburn, cherries are covered with plywood.

How to plant a tree

In order for the sweet cherry to develop well after the autumn planting and give a rich harvest, all preparation rules must be followed, both the soil and the seedling itself.

Preparation of seedlings

Sweet cherry differs from other fruit crops in that if you grow a seedling from a seed, it will not inherit the characteristics of the parent tree. The quality and quantity of the crop will be either more or less.

Therefore, to obtain the desired result it is recommended to buy an already grown seedling in a garden nursery... In order for the purchase to be successful, you need to pay attention to the following indicators:

1. On the trunk of the tree, the trunk of the scion should be clearly visible. It is these seedlings that will possess all the characteristics of the acquired variety.
2. When choosing a seedling, you need to pay attention to the presence of a main guide, if it is absent, then the tree will branch strongly and grow poorly, and there will also be a risk of breaking the crown into several parts after abundant fruiting. If the conductor is broken, then in the future it may have competitors, such rivalry will adversely affect the state of the cherries.
3. The roots of the seedling must be well developed and at least 15 centimeters long. You also need to pay attention to the condition of the root system, the absence of mechanical damage and excessive dryness indicates the quality of the seedling, and about proper care behind him. The cut should be light, creamy.
4. Best of all, trees at the age of 1-2 years take root in a new place.

Seedling roots with an open root system, during transportation, it is wrapped in a wet cloth, and then in an oilcloth.

Before planting, the roots of the seedling are inspected again and eliminate all emerging shortcomings:

• all soaked ends are cut off;
• you also need to remove all those roots that do not fit in the dug hole. Too long roots can freeze slightly in winter;
• before planting, the root system is placed in water for 2 hours so that it is moistened; in the presence of dry roots, this procedure is increased to 10 hours.

If foliage is present on the purchased seedling, it must be removed immediately. so that it does not dehydrate him.

Site selection and preparation

A place for planting and growing a seedling choose based on the following preferences for cherries:

1. Cherry grows best in loam or sandy loam soils, because they can provide good water and air permeability. Also, fertilizers applied to such land will go to the root system much faster and ensure its growth.
2. The optimal level of groundwater occurrence is 1.5 meters, if it rises higher, that is, there is a risk of moisture stagnation and subsequent decay of the root system. But this problem can be solved by digging a drainage ditch, in which all excess moisture will collect.
3. Cherry also loves sunny and lighted areas; it is best to plant it on the south or southwest side of the garden.

2-3 weeks before preparing the planting pit you need to carefully dig up the entire area on which you plan to plant cherries and apply the following fertilizers for digging:

• for one square meter make 10 kilograms of manure or compost;
• 180 grams of superphosphate will be consumed on the same area;
• 100 grams of potash fertilizers;
• acidic soils must first be limed with lime or dolomite flour. For sandy loam soil, 400-500 grams of the composition are used per square meter, and for loamy ones, 600-700 grams.

Lime should not be applied simultaneously with mineral fertilizers, because they can react and not bring the desired result.

If the site has a sandy type of soil, then a few years before planting cherries, it is mixed with clay, and vice versa. At the same time, throughout the entire time before planting, the land must be thoroughly fertilized in order to make it more fertile.

2-3 weeks before planting cherries, dig a planting hole, the depth of which will be equal to 60-80 centimeters, and the width can range from 60 to 100 centimeters.

When digging a hole, you need to separate two layers of soil: fertile (top) folded to one side, and infertile to the other.

After the pit is ready, a stake is driven into its bottom, which will serve as a support for the future tree. The topsoil is then mixed with the following fertilizers:

• 2-3 buckets of humus or non-sour peat;
• 200 grams of superphosphate;
• 60 grams of sulfuric potassium;
• 500 grams of ash.

Then the resulting mixture is poured onto the bottom of the pit in the form of a mound and carefully tamped, then sprinkled with infertile soil.

When preparing the pit, nitrogen fertilizers must not be applied. because they can damage the root system of the seedling.

Landing in open ground

1. The seedling is placed in a hole so that the root collar is 3-5 centimeters above ground level and tied to a support stake.
2. The root system must be carefully straightened and spread over the surface of the mound.
3. Then the tree is sprinkled with the bottom layer of soil, gradually shaking it, thereby filling the voids between the roots.
4. After the seedling is half buried, 1 bucket of water is poured into the hole, then the process is continued.
5. At the next stage, a hole is dug around the trunk with a depth of 5 centimeters, and the earth is laid out from it in the form of a roller. This design will help the moisture to be evenly distributed and settle to the roots of the tree.
6. The last step is to compact the soil, water abundantly, and mulch.

Water and natural processes can begin to stimulate soil subsidence around the trunk and the formation of a hole, which will need to be level with the rest of the soil.

Cherry planting and initial pruning. Tips for buying cherries:

Care in the first year after planting

The main danger for a tree planted in autumn is frost and too low temperatures... Therefore, cherries need to be well looked after and carefully prepared for climate change:

1. The barrel should be wrapped in burlap. Since winters can run with fairly high temperatures, care must be taken to ensure that the tree is not overturned.
2. The fallen snow is added to the lower part of the trunk, thereby protecting it from frost and gusty winds.
3. For best performance, spruce branches can be tied over the burlap.
4. To protect the tree from rodent attacks in winter, various pesticides are scattered around it.

Average, the tree is watered once a month, but in severe drought, this procedure is repeated every week. It is best to water the cherries through the hole, which, along with the growth of the tree, is gradually expanded to a diameter equal to 2 meters.

In the first 3 years of life, the tree will have enough fertilizer applied during planting. The only exceptions would be nitrogen fertilizers that apply in early spring in the second year after planting.

Such a top dressing will well stimulate the growth of cherries. Then the tree can be fed with stubborn humus and mineral fertilizers.

Insofar as birds love to feast on cherries very much, it is very important to protect the young tree from their attacks. To do this, you can bind old disks to branches, cans, tinsel or rain.

Also, all these items can be attached to the scarecrow. Another way is to stretch the meshes over the tree.

How to transplant cherries

There are often situations where it is necessary to transplant an already growing cherry to a new place... If strictly followed following scheme, then the autumn transplant will be as painless as possible for the tree:

1. It is best to replant healthy trees at the age of 5-6 years.
2. Preparation for this procedure must be carried out in advance. In early spring or late autumn, a groove is dug around the trunk of 40-50 centimeters in depth and 20-30 in width.
3. The cherry roots are carefully chopped and cleaned, then coated with garden varnish.
4. At the next stage, the groove is filled with peat or humus.
5. Throughout the summer, the tree needs to be watered abundantly so that new surface roots can develop.
6. The transplant is performed immediately after the leaf fall.
7. In this case, the planting hole should be 1.5 times larger than the root system of the sweet cherry.

When transplanting, the orientation relative to the cardinal points must be maintained. Otherwise, the tree may appear sunburn or injury to the cortex.

Autumn planting would be ideal for southern and central regions. The correct procedure can ensure the active growth of the tree as early as next spring.

Sweet cherry is one of the most ancient fruit plants, loved by many for its great berry taste and health benefits. It was known 2000 years ago, the Romans gave it the name "Curasunt fruits".

Sweet cherry is a capricious tree, it has many nuances in cultivation and a gardener needs to know: when and how to plant cherries correctly, what varieties to choose and how to achieve abundant fruiting.

Sweet cherry is considered to be the closest relative of cherry. Many people confuse cherries and cherries, only in 1491 botanists determined that these are different cultures, although they belong to the same family, sweet cherries are often called "bird cherries", and in Europe even Chekhov's famous play is called "Cherry Orchard".

The tree can reach up to 20-30 meters in height, it blooms profusely, and the flowers appear before the leaves. Breeders have also bred dwarf varieties up to 3-5 meters, which provides a more convenient collection of fruits.

The color of the fruit is different depending on the variety: yellow, pink, dark red. According to the state of the pulp, it is divided into 2 types: bigarro - with hard pulp and late ripening and gini - with soft pulp and early fruiting. Sweet cherry is self-fertile, for pollination it is necessary to plant next to 2-3 of its other varieties. Cherry Iput is especially good for pollination.

The life span of a tree is about 100 years, but most often it is used 15-20 years. Sweet cherries can produce up to 25-30 kg of fruit per tree in a short period of fruiting. There are 4000 varieties of sweet cherries in the world, of which 46 varieties were created by breeders from Russia.

When to plant: in autumn or spring?

It is believed that the sweet cherry is a tree that is more suitable for the south of the country, since it is very vulnerable to a drop in temperature and freezes during the first constant frosts, but today, thanks to the efforts of breeders, the cultivation of sweet cherries has become possible in other regions.

Cherry varieties have been created that correspond to different climatic conditions, are resistant to freezing and begin fruiting in the right time for this region.

In the southern regions, cherries are planted mainly in the fall during the period of leaf fall. Spring planting threatens the seedling with high temperatures already in March - April, dry winds and large quantity pests. In autumn, the tree manages to root well and by spring it is already a mature plant, especially since there are no severe frosts in the south in winter.

For Central regions Russia, Siberia, the Far East, it is recommended to plant cherries in the spring, so that for summer period the seedling got stronger and took root. Spring for planting a tree has another indisputable advantage: throughout the summer, the gardener monitors the development and condition of the plant on a daily basis. He will be able to quickly apply the necessary measures in case of drought or excess moisture, pest attacks or plant diseases.

Preparing berries for planting in spring

Variety selection

A mistake for many sweet cherry lovers is the choice of a variety that is not zoned for a given region. Gardeners are seduced beautiful descriptions, bright labels and do not take into account the survival rate of seedlings, the impact of climate and biological features cherries.

This is especially true for areas with harsh and long winters. Moreover, when choosing a variety, it is necessary to take into account not only subzero winter temperatures, differences are very dangerous temperature regime return frosts in spring.

For the death of seedlings, it is enough to lower the temperature after the thaw to -2 ° C, if it does not have high level winter hardiness. Experienced gardeners in such a situation additionally use smoke from fires.

The yield can also be affected by the composition of the soil in a given region, the duration and intensity of daylight hours, and the presence of stable cold winds.

The result is small yields, freezing, low taste qualities, and sometimes the death of the plant.

central region	Siberia	Far East	Leningrad region, North-West region
Pink sunset	Tyutchevka	Sakhalin	Leningrad black
Iput	Symphony	Rechitsa	Dawn
Italian	Jealous	Ordynka	Jealous
Beauty Zhukova	Bryansk pink	Bigarro Bulat	Bryanochka
Valery Chkalov	Fatezh	Francis	Bryansk pink
Teremoshka	North	Dragana yellow	Rechitsa
Jealous	In memory of Astakhov	Ariadne	Teremoshka
Bryanochka	Kozlovskaya Michurina	Sweet pink	Fatezh

For the Leningrad Region and the North-West regions, no special zoned varieties have been bred, gardeners successfully grow the most frost-resistant and unpretentious varieties intended for the Urals and Siberia.

Now 2 varieties are being developed for this region - Seda and Yurga. Cold winds from the Baltic Sea are a serious disadvantage for the cultivation of sweet cherries in these areas.

Landing dates for different regions

Requirements for soil and planting site

The soil for cherries should have a breathable structure, well warmed up, moderately moist, with low acidity.

The level of groundwater is very important, since already at a level of 1.5 m from the surface of the earth, gum flow begins and the cherry tree dies. It is preferable to plant it on loams rich in nutrients; peat soils, clay, sand are categorically unsuitable.

It is better to choose a planting place for cherries on the southern and southeastern slopes, well warmed up by the sun. Lowlands, from which water does not leave for a long time, are not suitable for it, in addition, it must be protected from northern winds.

Soil preparation

When planting in the fall, the earth is completely dug up 2-3 weeks before planting, adding humus at the rate of 10 kg per 1 sq. meter.

When planting in the spring, the soil is prepared in the fall, digging it up and adding fertilizers. Many gardeners and planting pits prepare in the fall.

If the land is not suitable for planting cherries on your site, then this can be corrected. Sand is added to clay soil, and clay is added to sandy soil. Additionally, soil mixture, which is sold in specialized stores, is introduced, manure or humus. The earth is dug up and in a few years it is ready for planting cherries.

Light mode

Sweet cherries are very demanding on light conditions. It feels good next to low-growing trees, forming a crown in the middle and upper tier for better absorption of sunlight.

Shading of cherries in gardens with tall fruit trees leads to the fact that fruiting switches to the upper branches, the fruits become smaller and their number decreases. For cherries, it is better to choose an open, sunny and warm place. For better illumination of the crown, annual pruning is used.

1. Cherry is contraindicated high humidity air, the fruits begin to crack and rot, but an excessively high dryness leads to the fact that leaves begin to fall off.
2. Sweet cherry does not tolerate being close to walnuts, rowan, pear, peach, black currant. Apple, plum and cherry trees are recommended as neighbors.
3. The distance between trees should be at least 4-5 meters, due to the highly developed root system of superficial occurrence.
4. Once every 5 years, the soil around the cherries must be limed.
5. Do not buy 3-year-old seedlings, they practically do not take root.

When planting cherries, you need to take care of protection from birds. Otherwise, most of berries will be pecked and not usable. To do this, many people hang shiny, rustling foil tapes or old computer disks on a tree. As a rule, this does not help, therefore, it is necessary in advance to prepare a mesh net (50x50 mm) and throw it over the cherries during the ripening period.

Planting pit preparation

Early planting dates can destroy the seedling due to recurrent frosts, and delay can lead to long survival due to high sun activity. The best time is mid-April, before the buds begin to awaken.

Preparation instructions:

1. The pit for planting cherries should be 80 cm wide by 100 cm and 70 cm deep, narrowing of the pit downwards is unacceptable. With such a pit, the root system should fit freely in it. Nearby, a stake is driven in - a support up to 80 cm high for dressing the seedling.
2. The planting pit is filled with a nutrient mixture to 1/3 of the depth: 2 parts of the topsoil; 1 part of humus; 1 part peat; 100g superphosphate; 50g potassium sulphide;

You can use another composition for the mixture: 2 buckets of compost, 1 kg of ash and 400 g of superphosphate. Nitrogen fertilizers are not added to avoid root burns

The pit is filled with the mixture 10 days before planting, mixed, the composition should settle.

Preparing a seedling before planting

The further development of the plant depends on the choice and preparation of the seedling:

1. The seedling must be grafted, have a strong trunk prevailing over the lateral branches.
2. You should not buy a seedling with a forked trunk, under the weight of the fruits in the future they may break.
3. It should have a developed root system without defects, with roots 15 cm long. If the root cut has a brown tint, then this is a sign of frostbite.
4. The day before planting, the seedling is placed in a bucket of water to activate the root system.
5. Before planting a seedling in a planting hole, cut off the damaged roots.
6. Long roots are cut, since the root system must completely enter the planting hole.
7. Before planting, remove all the leaves, otherwise the seedling will become dehydrated.

Step-by-step planting instructions

1. Pour a bucket of water into the planting hole.
2. Place the seedling in the recess of the pit next to the support, the neck of the seedling should be 4-5 cm higher than the ground level.
3. Cover the roots with earth.
4. Compact the top layer and fix the seedling to the support with soft tape. The loop "figure eight" is made free so as not to damage the bark of the tree.
5. Along the perimeter of the pit, make a circular recess for watering.
6. Pour out 2 buckets of water, make sure that after the soil subsides, the root collar is at ground level.
7. Cut the main trunk up to 80 cm, and the side branches up to 50 cm. This is necessary to form the correct crown.
8. It is advisable to plant cherries in cloudy weather.
9. The best seedlings take root at the age of 1-2 years.
10. To attract bees, mustard is planted next to the cherries, experienced gardeners spray the tree with a solution of water and honey

Further care of cherries

Watering

Sweet cherries need watering 3 times per season: in May, during the growing green mass, before flowering, in June, when the fruits begin to ripen and before winter.

Watering is stopped 20 days before harvest, otherwise the fruits will crack and rot. Watering is carried out to a depth of 40 cm, and pre-winter - up to 70-80 cm. In dry weather, the frequency of watering is increased. In the second half of summer, watering is not recommended, as this reduces the frost resistance of the tree.

Top dressing

Top dressing in the first year should not be applied, since the seedling received all the necessary substances during planting. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied for 2 years of tree growth. In spring, 120 g of urea should be scattered around the perimeter of the trunk circle, embedded in moist soil.

In the fourth year of growth, the roots will go beyond the near-trunk circle, so fertilizers are applied further from the trunk into the made furrows. In the spring, 120-200 g of urea are laid in moist soil, at the end of summer - 400 g of superphosphate and 100 g of potassium sulfate.

The width of the trunk circle in the second year is increased to 1 meter, and every year 50 cm are added. Cherry takes additional feeding with ash well.

Throughout the summer period until autumn, weeding and loosening of the near-trunk circle is necessary, since cherries cannot stand the neighborhood with weeds.

Crown formation, pruning

Sweet cherries need mandatory annual pruning, otherwise there will be no good harvest. It is of 3 types: formative - in spring, sanitary - in autumn and rejuvenating with aging of the tree. For all options, it is mandatory to remove branches 40 cm from the ground. When pruning, the places of the cuts are treated with garden pitch.

Formative pruning creates the correct crown, especially for young cherries. Before budding, the main trunk and upper branches are shortened by 1/3 of the length, branches growing inward are cut out, only those that grow in relation to the trunk at an angle of 45 degrees are left from the side shoots.

This is called a cupped pruning. She gives good lighting for a tree, stimulates fruiting and simplifies harvesting.

Sanitary pruning involves removing dried, broken, diseased branches.

Rejuvenating Pruning Helps Cherries Return Yield

Diseases of young cherries

Sweet cherries are quite resistant to diseases, but there are exceptions. Verticillosis is a fungal disease for many stone fruit crops; it is dangerous for cherries.

First, the bark bursts, then the flowers fall, the leaves turn yellow and gum appears on the trunk. You can use drugs such as Polychrome, Fundazol, Topsin. Clean up cracks and cover with clay with 2% copper sulfate. But, as a rule, treatment is ineffective, the tree dies within a year.

During a cold and rainy spring, cherries may be affected by bacteriosis (tree cancer). It is not possible to save cherries, scientists have not yet created a remedy against this disease. The tree must be cut down and burned.

Growing errors

Error	Cause
Buds do not bud in time	The root collar is deepened when planting
Discharge of ovary and foliage	Late watering during the growing season
Freezing wood	Wrong variety selected for this region
There is no regular and bountiful harvest	No annual pruning
Lack of fruit	No cross-pollination
Cracking of the bark of the trunks	Sunburn, trunk was not whitewashed in spring and autumn
Gum cutting, tree death	Rocks, crushed stone in the soil, diseases
Yellowing, crimson color of leaves after planting	Watering cold water from wells
No side branching	The trunk was not trimmed during planting

Sweet cherries are not only tasty, they are also very useful.

It regulates cardiac activity, “fights” against anemia, improves immunity and lowers blood sugar levels, improves vision and relieves irritability.

Cherry is especially appreciated by women for its properties to rejuvenate the skin, relieve swelling, and the possibility of using it in various diets.

Cherry growing is a laborious process, but the tree will thank you with a bountiful harvest.

Every third summer resident has a cherry on his plot. But the planting of cherries, its closest relative, is much less popular, although many people like its juicy and sweet berries. The reason for this is the well-established opinion about the exceptional thermophilicity of culture. For a long time it was true: trees bore generously only in the southern gardens.

Summer residents, whose plots are located in the middle lane, do not dare to grow cherries, considering this occupation unpromising due to the high risk of freezing. But not all varieties of culture are subject to it. Its zoned varieties are successfully cultivated in the cold climate of the Leningrad region, in the Urals and even in the gardens of Siberia.

Site requirements

Cherry loves the sun and does not tolerate drafts. It is better to place her seedlings in the area that is as illuminated as possible and at the same time not blown by cold winds. The tree will be comfortable at the fence or at the southern walls of buildings. But tall varieties of cherries have a spreading crown, so it is important to leave them enough for development free space... A seedling hole is dug, stepping back from the structure at least 3-4 m.

Trees grow best on small (up to 0.5 m in height) hills, which can be artificially arranged, and in areas slightly inclined towards the south, southwest or southeast.

Here they do not lack light and warmth. You should not plant cherries in lowlands and in those places where water stagnates for a long time in spring. In such conditions, trees die quickly. The roots of the sweet cherry are deep (up to 2 m long), and some of them are located vertically in the soil, so it does not tolerate close proximity of groundwater.

The culture grows well and bears fruit in loose soil. Light and fertile sandy loam or loamy soils are ideal for her. They should be sufficiently moist, but not waterlogged. On peat bogs, in heavy clay soil, on quickly drying sand with a scarce supply of nutrients, planting cherries will not be crowned with success.

Landing time and scheme

The timing of placing trees on the site depends on the climate of the area. In the southern regions, they often practice autumn planting, carrying it out several weeks before the soil freezes. In Siberia and the Urals, it is better to postpone the procedure until spring. If the seedling does not have time to take root, severe frosts will destroy it.

Sweet cherry is a cross-pollinated crop. It will bear fruit abundantly only if there are neighbors. It is recommended to plant 2-3 trees on the site, representing different varieties of culture. You can do with one, but only if you place a couple of cherries with the same flowering time next to the cherry. This guide also applies to partially self-fertile crop varieties.

4-5 m of free space is left between adjacent trees. Space saving is not here the best way... When planted closer, the trees will shade each other. Caring for them will also be complicated. If the cherry is columnar, the distance between the plants is reduced to 1 m.When planting such trees in rows, the interval between them should be made equal to 2-3 m.

Pit preparation

When planting cherries in the fall, the site is prepared 2-3 weeks before the procedure. The soil is dug deeply and enriched with fertilizers:

• compost (10 kg);
• superphosphate (180 g);
• potassium nitrate (100 g).

These dosages are calculated for 1 m² of the area of ​​the site. You can add a special complex preparation intended for cherries and sweet cherries to the soil. Soil with an acidic reaction is limed. It is recommended to do this in advance - 7-10 days before the introduction of nutrient formulations. Clay or sandy soil for growing cherries is prepared for several years. The first is dug up, scattering sand over the surface of the site, clay is added to the second. In the next 3-4 years, fertilizers are applied to the soil. This can be done in spring or autumn.

The planting hole is dug 2 weeks before the tree is placed in it. It should be deep (60-80 cm) and wide (1 m). A support is installed in the center. Correctly, if it rises above the surface of the soil by 30-50 cm.Fertile soil is poured onto the bottom of the pit, adding the following components to it:

• rotted compost;
• superphosphate;
• potassium sulfate;
• wood ash.

The thoroughly mixed substrate should form a slight hill around the support.

The introduction of nitrogen-containing compounds and lime into the planting pit is fraught with burns for the roots of the seedling, at this stage it is better to do without them.

Having slightly tamped the soil mixture, sprinkle it with infertile soil on top. Having leveled it well, they pour a couple of buckets of water into the pit, after which they forget about it for 2 weeks. During this time, the soil will settle.

If cherry planting is carried out in the spring, the site and the pit are prepared in the fall. Humus or compost is added to the soil. It is recommended to do this from October to November, depending on weather conditions. In the spring, when the snow melts and the soil dries out slightly, mineral fertilizers, including nitrogen fertilizers, can be added to the pits. They start placing seedlings in them in a week.

Sapling selection

Cherry seedlings at the age of 1-2 years take root best of all. In height, the first should reach 70-80 cm, the second - 1 m.

When choosing a seedling, you need to pay attention to the following signs:

• features of the crop variety (winter hardiness, the presence of immunity to diseases and pests);
• appearance young tree.

A quality seedling must be grafted. This indicates its belonging to varietal plants. Such a tree begins to bear fruit earlier, and its berries will taste better.

It is worth stopping the choice on a seedling that has many branches. To give correct shape its crown will be easier. The tree must have a well-developed and straight conductor. Young cherries grow quickly. If the conductor is weak, the stronger branches will compete with it. The presence of several conductors is highly undesirable: if a lot of berries are tied on a tree, it can break between them, and the cherry will die.

The roots of the seedling are also carefully examined. There should be no dry and damaged areas on them. A viable seedling has a developed, strong root system. If it is open, after purchase it is placed in wet cloth, and wrapped on top with oilcloth (polyethylene). This will protect the roots from drying out. Leaves from the branches of the seedling are immediately removed to prevent dehydration.

It is better to buy a seedling in the fall. At this time, the assortment of varieties in nurseries is the widest. For the winter, the tree is buried in, and in the spring (in April) they are planted in a permanent place. You can do it right into the mud. You should not delay planting cherries. It is important to carry it out while the buds on the tree have not yet woken up. So it will take root faster. Seedlings growing in containers can be planted in May and even June.

How to plant cherries

Before being placed in the planting hole, the cherry roots are carefully examined again. Sick and injured areas are excised. You can shorten shoots that are too long if they do not fit into the prepared pit. Then the underground part of the young cherry is dipped in a bucket of water, where it is kept from 2 to 10 hours, depending on the degree of dryness of its roots. They start planting when they swell.

The tree is placed in a hole so that its root collar protrudes from it by 5-7 cm. Carefully spreading its roots over a mound, they are sprinkled with infertile soil taken from the bottom of the depression. This should be done gradually, from time to time, slightly shaking the cherries by the trunk. So near its roots there will be no cavities filled with air.

Having completely filled up the pit, 1 bucket of water is poured into it. When it is absorbed and the soil settles, the trunk circle is well tamped. A hole is made around the tree with a radius of 30 cm, enclosing it from the outside with a shaft of soil. WITH inside a shallow (5 cm) furrow is drawn around it and watered well again. As the soil subsides in the near-trunk circle, it will have to be poured. The final stage is mulching the surface of the hole. Peat or humus is usually used for it.

If the buds on the tree have not yet begun to bloom, after planting it is pruned. 2-3 skeletal branches are left on the cherry, and the rest are removed on the ring. This must be done flush with the trunk so that hemp does not remain. Wounds are covered with garden varnish. Placing a sweet cherry on the site, in which sap flow has already begun, pruning its crown is postponed for the next year.

Top dressing and watering

For summer residents who already have fruit trees in the garden, caring for cherries will seem familiar. It includes the usual activities:

• watering;
• loosening the soil;
• weeding;
• removal of root growth;
• top dressing;

If you plant cherries correctly, the need to reintroduce potassium-phosphorus compounds into the soil will arise only after 3 years. They begin to feed the tree with nitrogen fertilizers earlier, when the second year of their life on the site goes. In dry form, they are brought in in the spring, as soon as it gets warmer. At the end of May, feeding is repeated, but in liquid form. When the tree is 4 years old, the soil under it is enriched with phosphorus, potassium and other trace elements. Compositions containing them are brought in in the middle of summer.

Closer to autumn, trees are watered with organic fertilizers - mullein or bird droppings dissolved in water. For the last time during the season, cherries are fed before winter - in September-October. They are guided here by the appearance of the trees: if the leaves turned yellow and began to fly around, the time has come for the introduction of nutrient compositions. They are buried in the soil during the digging process, going 10 cm deep into the ground.

Carefully monitor the cleanliness of the soil under and between trees. When loosening, you need to process an 8-10 cm layer of soil. This care is repeated 3-5 times per season. It is advisable to spend it the next day after each watering or rain. It is convenient to use a garden hoe or cultivator for loosening.

During the growing season, cherries need at least 3 waterings:

• before flowering;
• in the middle of summer, especially if it is dry;
• in the fall, simultaneously with the last feeding.

Before the procedure, it is recommended to loosen the soil under the trees, and after it - to mulch. Autumn watering is required. It should be abundant so that the water saturates the soil by 70-80 cm. This will protect the cherries from freezing. Cold-resistant crop varieties do not tolerate drought well. In extreme heat, such cherries often dry out. Having discovered such symptoms, you cannot hesitate, otherwise it will not be possible to save the tree. Will help him withstand adverse weather regular and abundant watering.

Crown formation

Cherry pruning raises the most questions for gardeners. To carry it out correctly and as painlessly as possible for the tree, the guidance of professionals will help. Whatever the goals - sanitary or formative - the pruning pursues, it is better to do it in early spring, while the sap flow has not yet begun. In summer and autumn, you can continue what you started, getting rid of the shoots thickening the crown and pinching the tops of improperly growing branches. The root shoots are removed during the entire growing season so that they do not draw forces from the tree.

Annual pruning of cherries allows you to:

• increase its yield;
• improve the quality of berries;
• prevent the development of diseases;
• increase the lifespan of the tree.

In the gardens of Siberia, cherries are given the shape of a bush. This makes it easier for the tree to withstand harsh winters. The optimal number of trunks is 3-5. The top of an annual seedling is shortened over 5-6 buds. This pruning stimulates the development of the lower lateral branches. Cherries are naturally prone to tillering. If you do not get rid of the strong shoots that grow over the graft, it will quickly take on the desired appearance itself.

A young tree is formed during the first 5-6 years. During this time, you need to lay several tiers (usually 3). In the future, pruning is carried out for sanitary purposes. The height of the tree is maintained within 3-3.5 m, and the length of its skeletal branches is at the level of 4 m. Grinding of berries and the formation of ovaries only on the periphery of the crown indicates the need for rejuvenating pruning. It is carried out in late winter and early spring.

Features of autumn care

With the arrival of autumn, you need to take preventive measures against diseases and pests. The fallen leaves are raked up and burned. The trees and the soil underneath are sprayed special drugs, their trunks are whitewashed to the level of the trunk. It is desirable to process the bases of skeletal branches.

When the trees are completely bare, the last pruning of the season is carried out. To make the cherry easier to endure frost, it is relieved of weak, injured and improperly growing shoots. Annual shoots are cut to ⅓ of the length. Non-skeletal branches are shortened to 30 cm. At this time, it is better to use a saw instead of a secateurs. The sections remaining after it are tightened faster. The procedure must be completed by the end of September. Late pruning is fraught with long-healing wounds that make it difficult for the tree to winter. Saplings are exposed to it in the second year of life on the site. It is dangerous to prune younger trees before winter; it is better to postpone the procedure until spring.

Cherry that has suffered from frost dries up in spring, and its trunk can become covered with cracks, through which infection easily penetrates. To protect the seedlings, they are fenced off with a kind of fence made of stakes and, carefully pulling off the branches, are placed under the covering material.

With a competent approach to choosing a variety, growing cherries in gardens middle lane, The Urals and Siberia will not be difficult for their owners. If you take care of it correctly, the tree lives on the site for a whole century, early entering the fruiting period. A recent seedling will bear its first berries in 5-6 years. It will take another 4-5 years, and the harvest will be full. Watering, feeding and regularly pruning the tree will allow it not to reduce their volume until the end of its long life.