When to plant conifers in the garden. Important nuances of choosing and planting conifers How to plant conifers correctly

Optimal boarding time continues conifers, which are planted and transplanted not only in the fall, when the heat subsides, but also in the spring before the onset of hot weather.

We have already analyzed on our site, but the nuances that exist when planting, evergreen deciduous, some deciduous woody, flower perennials, seedlings of flower annuals and vegetable crops we will analyze in detail this season. So, conifers - what individual mistakes do gardeners make when planting them, what is important when planting each of the main coniferous crops they ignore?

Mistake 1: breaking the earthen ball when landing

If, when planting conifers, an earthen lump is not preserved, then the roots will dry out and die off. All conifers must be transplanted with a lump! For the best preservation of the coma, it is necessary to water it well on the eve of digging a tree or shrub.

The safety of the earthen lump is achieved by quickly packing the lump with burlap, matting or other materials and tying it with strong twine, wire, metal mesh. When planting a coniferous plant from a container, we also water it well the day before and carefully remove it from the container.

Only after installing the lump in the planting hole is it released from the packaging. Haste in releasing an earthen coma can cause it to disintegrate. Some gardeners even prefer to leave the burlap in the soil (it will rot anyway), while removing the rigid fixation with wire, mesh or synthetic materials.

Mistake 2: a small planting hole or a mismatch of the planting hole with an earthen coma of a coniferous plant

The planting area for conifers should be wider than the diameter of the coma and deeper than the height of the coma. Visually, it should look like this: between the lump and the walls of the hole, the palm of an adult man should enter, and the root neck * should be at ground level.

After establishing the earthen coma of a coniferous plant in the planting hole, the air gaps are covered with soil for backfill for a specific coniferous species (more on this below). If there is none, then the soil that was taken out during the preparation of the planting pit, but it is clear that in the latter case the plant will develop worse.

Mistake 3: backfilling the root collar of a coniferous plant

In case of forced backfilling of the root collar of the tree with earth, it is necessary to free the plant from the ground to the level of the root collar, and if this is not possible, arrange air drainage. For this, a network of trenches is arranged in the root system zone, which are filled with stone.

Trenches communicate with the soil surface by pipes, through which the outside air freely penetrates through the drainage to the root system. From above, the trenches are covered with earth. The distance between the trenches should not exceed one meter, the width of the trenches should not be less than 70 cm.

Mistake 4: ignoring the individual requirements of conifers when planting

Planting certain conifers has its own nuances, depending on the species. In order for your coniferous pet to develop well in a new place, it is important not to ignore its requirements, but to create optimal conditions for development.

Fir requirements:

• choice of landing site: shaded areas; exclude landing sites with close groundwater;

• backfill soil: turf, leaf land, peat, sand (2: 2: 1: 1);
• planting depth 50-70 cm;
• exclude trampling and soil compaction, especially in near-trunk circles.

Cypress requirements:

• choice of landing site: partial shade, variegated forms - in the sun;
• backfill soil: humus, leaf soil, peat, sand (3: 2: 1: 2);
• drainage is required: a layer of broken brick and sand up to 20 cm;
• planting depth 70 cm, less often up to 1 m.

Larch requirements:

• choice of landing site: open sunny places; for Japanese larch - partial shade;
• backfill soil: leaf soil, peat, sand (3: 2: 1);
• drainage only on heavy soils: a layer of broken brick up to 20 cm;
• planting depth: 70-80 cm;
• plants are planted in a permanent place at the age of 4-5 years;
• planting time - before bud break;
• preservation of young thin roots with mycorrhiza.

Juniper requirements:

• choice of landing site: sunny places;
• backfill soil: peat, turf land, sand (2: 1: 1); the ratio may vary depending on the species: for example, the Siberian juniper prefers sandy soils, the Cossack juniper grows well on calcareous, Virginian juniper - on clay;
• drainage is required: a layer of broken brick and sand 15-20 cm;
• planting depth 70 cm, with soil filling in the pit.

Fir requirements:

• choice of landing site: shady places; seedlings take root better at the age of 5-10 years;

• backfill soil: clay, leafy earth or humus, peat, sand (2: 3: 1: 1);
• drainage is required on heavy soils: a layer of broken brick or gravel 20 cm;
• planting depth 50-60 cm; the root collar should remain at ground level.

Requirements of pines:

• choice of landing site: open spaces; young seedlings under the age of 5 years take root well;
• backfill soil: turf, sand or clay (2: 1);
• drainage is required on heavy soils: a layer of broken brick, gravel or sand 20 cm;
• planting depth 0.8-1 m.

Yew requirements:

• choice of landing site: semi-shady, shady place;
• backfill soil: turf, peat, sand (3: 2: 2);
• planting depth: 60-70 cm.

Tui requirements:

• choice of landing site: sunny and semi-shady places;
• backfill soil: turf or leafy soil, peat, sand (2: 1: 1);
• drainage is required: a layer of broken brick and sand 20 cm;
• planting depth: 60-80 cm.

Planting needs to be mulched ** to retain moisture in the soil and get rid of weeds. Repeat mulching every spring (or spring and fall on very dry sandy or calcareous soils). You can lay a decorative layer of durable gravel or crushed bark mulch on a special spunbond fabric that completely protects against.

Under the conifers, you can mulch needles, preferably large pine needles - it provides air flow to the roots. In addition, half-over-matured needles always contain mycelium. When you dig, you can even see it with the eye - these are white threads. Among the mushrooms there are both useful and even necessary for plants. Indeed, many conifers are mycorrhizal plants; they live in symbiosis with mushrooms.

Explanations of terms found in the text:
*Root collar- the place where the trunk goes to the root.
**Mulch Is a layer of material spread over the soil surface to "seal" moisture in the soil, "stifle" weeds and impart decorative view... Garden centers sell a variety of gravel, bark and other materials.

And what mistakes did you make when planting conifers at your dacha? How did you fix it later?

Conifers in the photo

Conifers originate mainly from North America, Japan, China and Russia (Siberia). The harsh climate determines the biological resistance of conifers to both low and high temperatures, as well as a high need for soil and air moisture, but not waterlogging. Roots with a superficial location of the root system are spruce, thuja, junipers. They also do not tolerate soil compaction around tree trunks.

A pit for planting and caring for conifers in the garden should be the same size as the root system or earthen coma.

After planting, you need abundant watering, which is carried out even on rainy days. It is needed to settle the earth around the roots. After watering, the trunk circle, which should correspond in size to the diameter of the crown, is mulched with one of the following materials: sawdust, peat, sand or simply dry earth.

Large-sized conifers aged 10-12 years can be transplanted in two periods - at the end of September and during October and March. Planting material should be packed with a lump of earth in burlap. The brought planting material must be placed in water for two days until the coma is completely soaked. Then the lump hardens after 1-2 days, and only then the plant is planted.

Large planting pits are prepared in advance. If the soil is bad, they are covered with fertile soil. After planting, watering is necessary every 2-3 days, and spraying every day. New roots are formed in about 1.5-2 months.

Conifers are evergreen and therefore capable of performing their functions, especially aesthetic ones, all year round... And conifers such as juniper are also valuable because they emit a large number of phytoncides (Phytoncides are biologically active substances that kill or suppress the growth and development of bacteria) are 6 times more than other conifers and 15 times more than deciduous ones. In addition, conifers successfully trap dust and absorb toxic substances. Thuja and juniper are actively used for topiary (curly haircut). You can create both individual shapes and whole green hedges. Where to get such a viable planting material and how to grow it?

Seeds or cuttings, as an initial planting material, for growing seedlings must be harvested from plantations that naturally grow in the data climatic conditions, or from artificially grown, but well acclimatized and stable in the given conditions. On the territory of our region, in gardens, parks and private land holdings, many conifers grow: different kinds spruce, pine, juniper, thuja, larch, yew, etc. Many of these plants are 20 or more years old, so they passed a good natural selection, acclimatized and can be used for harvesting seeds and cuttings. It is important to choose the right time for harvesting seeds: for prickly spruce and larch - mid-August; common spruce and pine - from December to February; tui - September; junipers - October, November.

Sowing of conifers is carried out only in spring. From collection to sowing, seeds are stored in hermetically sealed vessels, which keeps them from drying out. After harvesting, juniper seeds are laid for 3 - 3.5 months for stratification. In the spring, before sowing, the seeds of all conifers, except for junipers, are soaked for 1 day in ordinary water at room temperature. For sowing beds, it is advisable to choose a place in partial shade or prepare shading shields. For spruce, the soil should be loamy, well humified, for other conifers - sandy loam. Before sowing and subsequently during the year, no fertilizers, especially manure, can be applied to the soil. The only thing to add is compost soil. For a small number of growing plants, it is better to use single-line seeding. Seeding depth: for larch and spruce 0.5 - 1 cm, for other conifers 1 - 2 cm. After sowing, the beds must be watered, put in small arcs and hermetically sealed with foil. Monitor soil moisture, if necessary, water additionally, but do not overfill. With the emergence of seedlings, after about 12 days, by partial opening of the film, the seedlings are hardened, and then the film is completely removed. Further care for seedlings consists of watering, weeding and loosening. Shelter is not required in winter.

For growing seedlings of thuja and juniper 15 - 25 cm high it takes 2 years, spruce and larch - 3 years. To increase the energy of growth, the formation of seedlings with a beautiful symmetrical crown, the seedlings are dug up in early spring with a bare root system, the roots are shortened by 1/3 and planted, increasing the area for each plant (25 - 30 cm). Further care: watering once a week for 2 months, then the intervals between waterings can be increased, weeding, loosening the soil, sometimes shading. It will take 3-6 years to get from these seedlings 1 - 1.2 m high seedlings with a good crown and a powerful root system. To do this, every 2 years it is necessary to carry out 1 - 2 transplants.

So, what to remember when planting coniferous seedlings:

1. All conifers up to 3 years old can be transplanted with a bare root system only in spring;
2. Transplant plants older than 3 years only with a natural earthen clod in spring or autumn;
3. Do not remove naturally falling needles from under the plant, as it protects the soil from overheating and drying out, and when decomposing, provides the plant with the necessary nutrients.

Conifers, especially shrub forms, can be propagated by cuttings. Cutting time is spring, after the start of sap flow. Annual cuttings are torn off with the heel, that is, with part of the wood. Then they are grown according to the usual technology.

And the last thing - if you decide to bring or purchase seedlings from other regions, then you must take into account:

1. The climatic conditions in which the seedlings are grown and where they will be planted should be similar in their characteristics, especially humidity and temperature;
2. Growing technology (whether the hydroponic method was used);
3. Seedlings over 3 years old should be delivered packed with a natural earthen clod.

If you see beautiful 2-meter seedlings in pots with peat, do not think that they have grown in them, this is just packaging for transportation, but when and what they packed, it is worth thinking about it.

§ 5. Features of growing coniferous seedlings for forest crops

For forestry purposes, spruce, pine and larch seedlings are grown in compacted schools. The success of the cultivation of silvicultural planting material in school branches of the nursery is determined by the applied crop rotation and special technology. The most effective crop rotations include fallow fields. For example: 1st field - steam; 2nd field - seedlings of the first year; 3rd field - second year seedlings. The steam can be clean, busy or green. The main task of clean steam is the destruction of perennial weeds by a combination of chemical and mechanical means... In this case, after spring plowing or plowing and disking, the soil of the 1st field is treated with herbicides - a mixture of dalapone (10 kg / ha) or TXA (30 kg / ha) with 2,4-D amine salt (2 kg / ha). Two weeks after the treatment, the couples are cultivated, and after another two weeks, if weeds appear, they are re-treated with the same herbicides, followed by cultivation.

In a nursery with weakly littered, not enough fertile soils green manure fallow is used in crop rotation. The peculiarity of processing green manure steam is as follows. On the fallow field, after plowing and disking in spring, green manures are sown: vetch with oats and peas (200 kg of seeds / ha), annual lupine or other herbs. After rolling, the green mass is smelled at the end of July. In early August, the soil is treated with herbicides (dalapon 10 kg and amine salt 2,4-D 2 kg / ha), followed by cultivation in 2-3 weeks.

If the soils of the nursery are fertile and without weeds, then the crop rotation includes a busy fallow with sowing of early maturing crops (peas, etc.) or leguminous grasses for hay.

Before the autumn plowing of the fallow field or before the plowing of grasses in nurseries with sod-podzolic soils, lime (or dolomite) is applied in an amount of 2-3 t / ha.

The exact dose of lime application is calculated from the value of the hydrolytic acidity of the soil in the arable layer.

The technology of growing coniferous seedlings in the school branch of the nursery includes the following agrotechnical techniques based on complex mechanization.

Planting is carried out with a dense arrangement of plants, that is, the seedlings are grown in compacted schools with an ordinary, tape and combined arrangement of plants. In schools with an ordinary placement of plants, the same distance between the rows is maintained. The planting is carried out with a SSHN-3 planter in a unit with a DT-54A or T-74 tractor, equipped with creeper reducers. Minimum distances between the coulters of this machine 0.8 m.Since the row spacing in compacted schools in this version is taken as 0.4 m, then for laying such schools, the movement pattern of the unit is made with the calculation of inscribing rows in the row spacing 0.8 m wide. On subsequent passes, the planter's opener fits into the middle of the row spacing, providing a distance between rows of 0.4 m. The output of seedlings with such a row spacing at a planting step of 12-15 cm is 150-200 thousand pcs / ha.

Compacted tape schools lay 3-, 4- and 5-row. When laying a 3-row school, you can use the same SSHN-3 planter with a distance between the machine coulters of 1.6 m. In this case, the middle coulter and the planting apparatus are dismantled. For 3 passes of the planter, each time displacing the unit by 0.4 m, two 3-row belts are laid with a plant placement scheme of 40-40-80-40-40 cm. planting step 12-15 cm is 100-150 thousand pieces.

The planting of a 5-row school with a belt arrangement is carried out with an SShP-5/3 planter, which is aggregated with a DT-54A, Belarus or T-40 tractor. In one pass, this machine plants 5 rows of plants with a distance between rows of 0.2 m, between belts - 0.8 m. The layout of plants is 20-20-20-20-80 cm. The yield of seedlings is 200-250 thousand pcs / ha ... The same machine can lay a 3-row compacted school according to the 40-40-80 cm scheme. In this case, two rear sections with openers and planting devices are dismantled from the machine.

Coniferous seedlings can also be grown in compacted schools with combined plant placement. In this case, several rows of coniferous seedlings with short term cultivation (2 years) alternate with one row of deciduous species (linden, Norway maple, mountain ash, etc.) with long term cultivation (6-8 years). First, seedlings of deciduous species are planted with a single-row forest planting machine with a distance between rows of 2.4 m and a planting step of 0.7 m.Then, 5 rows of seedlings of spruce (or other coniferous species) are planted in the aisles of deciduous trees with a placement of 0.8-0.2- 0.2-0.2-0.2-0.8 m and a landing step of 15 cm. Landing is carried out with an SShP-5/3 machine in a five-row version. After 2-3 years, spruce seedlings are dug up and in their place in the aisles of deciduous trees, which continue to grow, spruce seedlings are planted again. The output of spruce seedlings in such combined schools is 140 thousand pcs / ha.

Sealing schools of conifers are laid in the spring. However, in nurseries of the forest zone, late summer plantings are also promising (at the end of August). Already after 15-20 days, new roots are formed in the planted plants. During the fall, the plants take root and from the spring of next year begin to grow more intensively than during spring plantings. This increases the yield of seedlings of the 1st grade. In addition, late summer planting is also advisable from the point of view of less workload at the nursery during this period. For the laying of compacted schools, standard (GOST 3317-77) seedlings are used, which are grown in the sowing department with open ground or in plastic greenhouses.

Seedling care includes killing weeds, loosening the soil, feeding the plants, and controlling disease and pests. To destroy annual weeds in spring and autumn, after planting the plants, the school is treated with a simazine solution at the rate of 2 kg of chemical per hectare using POU, GAN-8 or OSSh-15 sprayers in a unit with a T-16M self-propelled chassis. The same treatment with simazine with a solution consumption of 600-800 l / ha is carried out at the beginning and end of the second year of seedling growth. The same tractor sprayers are used to treat seedlings with a chemical solution in the fight against pests and diseases. In the first year of growing seedlings, 3-4 loosening of row spacings to a depth of 5-8 cm is done with a cultivator-plant feeder on a self-propelled chassis T-16M. At the first loosening, root feeding of seedlings is carried out with mineral fertilizers. The rates of application of mineral fertilizers when feeding depend on fertility, physical and chemical properties soil. On average, on sod-podzolic medium-loamy soils of the forest zone, with each feeding per hectare, 80-100 kg (l.v.) of nitrogen fertilizers or a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, 40-50 kg / ha each, are applied. Under these conditions, the best results are obtained with 2-fold spring feeding (1st and 3rd decades of May).

The use of mineral fertilizers in the form of root dressings on poorly cultivated loamy soils ensures good growth of seedlings, which makes it possible to reduce or even eliminate the introduction of organic fertilizers when applying green manure. Loosening row spacings and spring feeding plants are also carried out in the second year of growing coniferous seedlings in compacted schools. The term for growing pine and larch seedlings in a compacted school is 2 years, for spruce - 2-3 years, and Siberian cedar pine - 3-4 years.

When digging out seedlings, a digging bracket NVS-1.2 and a digging machine VM-1.25 are used, which cut the roots at a depth of 18-25 cm. Seedlings are selected from the soil by hand. A large economic effect is provided by the use of a single-row digging-picking machine VVM-1 in a unit with a Belarus or T-40 tractor in the excavation of seedlings. This machine digs in the seedlings, removes them from the ground, cleans them of soil and places them in a container.

In the garden among landscape compositions conifers are assigned significant places.

Their unique varieties remain in the heart of every nature lover. These plants are extraordinary in that they are able to decorate all year round.

At any dacha, territory with surely there is at least one to represent the "prickly" type:

• Pine;
• fir;
• juniper.

Do not use conifers in overall design the site is simply a crime against beauty and aesthetics. In addition, the availability of these species contributes greatly to this. Plants from nurseries take root well in new places, and with normal care they develop and grow well.

Due to the fact that coniferous plant species are giants and dwarf forms, they can be used in areas different sizes... In addition to the height, the tone of the color of the leaves is also pleasing, among which the owners of blue, yellow and black needles, not counting the traditional green, stand out favorably.

Even in small gardens, you can find a place for a short Christmas tree. For example, the pine of the Watereri variety does not differ in its growth rate, and only by the age of 30 will it be able to increase in size and reach 3 m in height.

Even if you have planted a tall plant in your garden, you can control its growth by vigorous annual pruning or by pinching young shoots at the top of the tree.

But such conifers, like juniper, can be easily molded with garden shears.

Such a haircut will be enough for several years.

Among the medium-sized coniferous crops, there are many that attract attention with their forms. These are pyramidal thuja and spherical pines, and creeping junipers. All these plants in the ensemble and in single plantings will be able to satisfy even the most picky tastes.

What trees to plant

For those who like to amaze, it is worth taking a closer look at the less common breeds, such as:

• Canadian hemlock;
• pea;
• cypress;
• fir.

Medium-sized conifers are most often planted in:

• mixborders;
• or heather gardens;
• on areas with lawn grass.

The classics of the genre can be called a couple planted along small trees in symmetry. Also, two globular Globosa thujas at the entrance to a house or garden will look great.

It is very noticeable and unusual to decorate gentle slopes and stone gardens with the help of creeping species of coniferous representatives. Horizontal junipers Blue Chip, Prince of Wales, Golden Carpet have low growth. It is also common to use medium-sized Green Carpet or Depressa Aurea plants, or their tall, scaly Blue Carpet varieties.

Creeping conifers are used on hills, in group plantings, in order to use them favorably in contrasts. Often they are planted in the form of natural curbs.

As mentioned above, coniferous representatives can be different colors striking in their decorativeness. That only there is a scaly type of blue juniper or a gray-haired silvery sucker.

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Repaired raspberry variety

One has only to start decorating your garden with these types of plants, it will be difficult to stop, since beauty has no limits and boundaries.

How to plant a pine tree

Initially, transplant conditions are created that are acceptable for young pine. Spruce should be planted from mid-April to late spring. Provided that the root of the tree is not damaged, it is possible to transplant spruce trees in the fall, from early September to mid-October.

This applies to young trees. If there are intentions to plant a large tree, then another technology is applicable here.

Areas for spruce should be selected bright and sunny. In darkened areas, these trees do not fully develop, they may have no vegetation on one side or there is no lush crown.

Provided that there is an intention to land several side by side, a distance of at least 4 m should be maintained between them.

Searching for seedlings in the forest

So, advice to those who went to the forest for the desired seedlings. It is clear that you need to look for them in sunny areas. Then, the recommended height of your future beauty should be no more than 40-75cm. Such seedlings are not only easy to transport, but their rooting is many times faster.

Another important point which it is desirable to draw your attention to is the orientation relative to the cardinal points. It should be remembered and repeated at your dacha.

Pines have a core root system, therefore, when removing a tree from the ground, it is worth deepening a sufficient distance, choosing a near-stem space of at least 20 cm.

A tree with an earthen lump should be removed and also moved to a new planting site. It is known that the roots begin to die off already after 15 minutes after their release from the protective earthy coma.

Still as good advice take into account the fact that when removing a tree from the forest, it is recommended to take with you a sufficient amount of soil, which is then mixed into the soil of the planting pit. It is clear that this will contribute to the rapid establishment and subsequent development of the seedling.

The transportation of the tree should be careful, and it is advisable to sprinkle an earthen lump on the roots periodically.

The planting hole should easily accommodate the root tree. One bucket of water is poured onto its bottom and mineral dressings for conifers are added to the soil.

Tree care

For example, after planting for some time, the needles of trees should be slightly protected from direct sunlight. To do this, it is necessary to wrap it with protective material and keep the trees in this state until they take root.

At home, it can be obtained from cones and seeds.

To get the result from the cone, you should pick up a two-year-old pine fruit, certainly female, in the forest. Male cones stay on the tree for only two months, and, having developed pollen for female cones, they fall off safely.

In female cones, already ready for reproduction, there are seeds on a transparent plate.

Having obtained pine seeds, they should be stored for as long as the winter period lasts in the region where the cone was picked up. To do this, you can put dry seeds in a paper bag and send them to the refrigerator shelf before the end of winter.

After the winter season is over, you can plant the seeds in the ground by adding the land where their parents grew. If you have not distinguished yourself with prudence, you need to take a peat mixture and deepen the seeds 2 cm into it.

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Then the seeds are moistened and the planting container is stirred in a well-lit place, where after 30 days you can observe the fruits of your activity. This is if the seeds are suitable for planting.

Canadian pine is in great demand among suburban residents. Growing it involves following some rules.

The main thing that should be provided for the varieties of Canadian pines is timely and sufficient watering, regular fertilizing for conifers, treatment from pests, and sometimes protection from the scorching rays of the sun in spring.

Generally, experienced gardeners the truth is known that almost all ephedra do not tolerate long period no moisture stagnation, no moisture deficit.

If something is wrong in caring for a tree, it can die for a long time.

Suitable climate and soil

A suitable climate for Canadian spruce is where it is seen high humidity air and low natural precipitation. The proximity of garden ponds, sea shores, mountains - all this disposes to good development wood.

The requirements for the soil are as follows - a neutral or slightly acidic environment, looseness and sufficient moisture capacity, and average fertility.

For those who wish to decorate their site decorative trees, you should pay attention to the black spruce.

In order for her to be successful, it is recommended to follow the recommendations described above. They are applicable for most conifers... If more detailed information, then it is worth learning all about "black pine planting and care".

Reproduction

Conifers are in stable demand, and recently their popularity has increased even more.

Plants of this species have high decorative qualities, amaze with the color of the needles, the unusual structure of the branches and crown, and also attract with their availability and year-round attractiveness.

Those gardeners who decide to get this or that coniferous plant by reproduction will be helped by this review.

There are several ways to propagate evergreens. Most of them are capable of reproduction by seeds, which are in the cones. Some can reproduce with.

This method is especially suitable for creeping plant species. But, especially often, conifers reproduce. In this case, the cuttings can be still young, semi-lignified, or completely lignified.

It must be admitted that the cuttings method is not suitable for all breeds. So, pine, fir and spruce are poorly amenable to this method of reproduction. Most often they are grown with seeds, and the particularly patient gardeners of the houses in the village use the grafting method.

Each coniferous plant has its own favorable time for the selection of cuttings. It is advisable to take a stalk from a cypress in autumn, winter. Cuttings from juniper and yew should be taken at the very beginning of the year.

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In this case, the plants must be young or in an active growth phase. Excellent cuttings can be obtained by periodically trimming conifers such as hedges.

Cuttings for propagation should be selected only from the upper part of the plants in order to avoid later problems with crown molding, etc. Future seedlings should have a growing point at the top if there is an intention to get a normal, upright tree. If there is no such point, the plant will acquire a bushy shape.

How to breed in a cold greenhouse

To begin with, you should make a bed for the cuttings, while the edges of the formwork should be 15 cm higher from the soil surface in it.

When tearing off the shoot from the mother plant, it must be done with a sharp downward movement to get a "heel". From this heel it is necessary to cut off old wood with a sharp knife.

After that, the base of the cutting must be treated with a growth stimulant, which includes indole butyric acid. In the lower part of the cutting, by about a third, it is necessary to remove all the leaves without touching the top.

Then in the soil with wooden peg a recess is made three cm and a stalk is placed in it. At the very base of the cutting, the soil is compacted. To plant the next cutting, you need to retreat five cm.

After all the cuttings take their places, the garden bed is moistened with a fungicide solution. After these actions, the frame on the greenhouse is covered and left in this position until the onset of summer. Most time cuttings should not be disturbed.

Only if severe frosts are expected, the greenhouse can be covered with spruce branches, straw or an old blanket.

In the summer season, it will be necessary to shade from direct sun rays and provide ventilation so that condensation does not accumulate in it.

So that the conifers do not suffer from sunburn, gardeners often use special nets or protective layer from lime solution.

From time to time, the cuttings need to be moistened. With the onset of autumn, rooted cuttings of conifers can be transferred to places of constant growth.

Plants such as juniper can be planted using the layering method. To do this, you just need to bend a suitable shoot to the ground, under the place of the future root you should make a depression in the soil, bend a branch into it, and sprinkle it with soil.

For fidelity, you can put a brick on the site of the future formation of roots. The shrub itself and the soil with the shoot should be moistened. It will be possible to cut off a young rooted shoot from the mother plant only after two years.

Previously, you should not do this, otherwise all work will go down the drain. It will be possible to judge the full formation of roots on a new shoot by the appearance of young needles.

Cutting can also be used when breeding yew, Canadian spruce, thuja or cypress.

The best time for this is the month of April.

If rooting took place, then in the fall it will need insulation for wintering. You can root the stalk in a container.