Do-it-yourself high beds: step by step we make beds from boards in the country. How to make warm beds in the country How to make a garden bed

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A dacha is not just a plot for growing and harvesting. For many, this is a favorite place to relax and implement ideas for. Often the method of planting vegetable crops is relegated to the background, but this is not correct, because the appearance of the entire landscape largely depends on their interesting location and attractive appearance. This article tells you the easiest way to make beds for the lazy at the dacha. Photos and descriptions of the most good ideas, as well as ways to implement them, should help make your site comfortable and well-groomed.

Tall structures made of boards for planting crops will be the highlight of any site

A garden bed is most often a fenced plot of land intended for growing a certain type of plant.

• Slate.

Usually this material is used only if it is available (for example, left after the repair of the roof).

• Plastic.

The main feature of plastic is that it can be given any shape, so it is great for round or other curved fit options. In addition, it is not affected by precipitation and low temperatures, so it will last a long time without losing its original attractiveness.

An expensive and durable option.

• A natural stone.

It produces the most spectacular bumpers that will serve for many years. Unlike bricks, stones have an irregular shape, which will allow you to make landscape design in an eco-style. Disadvantages of stone ledges: high cost and gradual sinking into the soil under the influence of its own weight, so such a ledge must be periodically checked and corrected.

Qualitatively made with your own hands from improvised materials will serve for many years, but for good harvest its correct location is also necessary.

Placing beds in the garden: how to arrange, photos, tips

The quality and quantity of the crop depends on the proper location of the beds in the summer cottage, so this issue should be given Special attention. First of all, you need to know the following:

• Beds located on the cardinal points (from north to south) - good decision only for low plants on a flat horizontal area.
• If the site has a slope that cannot be leveled, the beds should be across it regardless of orientation.
• It is desirable to make rows of one plant of the same size. This will make it easier to calculate the amount of fertilizer, the degree of irrigation and planting.
• If the site has multidirectional slopes, choose the south side (the crop will ripen faster on it).

In small areas, there is often a lack of free horizontal areas for planting. If this is your case, try one of the following ideas:

• Create vertical designs.

• Use unused items for planting plants (for example, a wheelbarrow, a barrel, and so on).
• Attach the bed to the recreation area.

How best to make beds in the garden - options

The beds are classified according to design features, with the following types:

• Traditional (flush with the rest of the site, dimensions make it easy to reach the center from any side (right or left)).

• High (30-40 cm above ground level, contribute to the most rapid ripening of the crop).

• Deep (during the device, a trench is dug 20-30 cm deep, due to which the earth most often does not freeze through, and the landing can be carried out earlier).
• Narrow (for example, according to the Mittlider method, described in detail in the next chapter).
• Vertical (an excellent solution for small areas, but not all plants can be planted in this way).

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How to make beds from boards with your own hands

Now let's look at how to properly make beds in a garden made of wood. This material is the most common when arranging beds. Board structures have the following advantages:

• Reliability.

The tree perfectly retains moisture inside the row, and also does not deform for a long time.

• Low cost.

This material often remains after construction. If it was not there, you can buy boards at a fairly low price.

• Ease of installation.

The main thing is high-quality wood processing, if this is not done, insects and moisture will quickly destroy the structure.

• Attractive appearance.

Wood is a material ideal for eco-style beds.

The only drawback of board structures is their fragility (in comparison, for example, with plastic or brick). However, the ability to change them quickly and at the lowest cost more than covers it.

How to make a bed of boards with your own hands: photos, dimensions, installation sequence

If you decide to make a wooden structure, first of all you need to choose the type of wood:

• Oak or ash- hard rocks, the boards of which are perfect for this case however, their price is quite high.
• Pine- cheap, but short-lived. You can extend the life of such a fence with the help of periodic chemical treatment.
• Cedar or larch– the best price-quality ratio. Due to the presence of resin in these conifers, there is no need to process them.
• Acacia- also a great option for arranging beds.

What are the optimal sizes of the beds from the boards? First you need to decide on the height of the structure, which depends on the following factors:

• Features of the planted culture.

Some vegetables require a certain depth (for example, for potatoes, the planting depth must be at least 40 cm).

• Soil fertility.

If the soil is fertile, the sides can be made 10-15 cm high. If fertile soil is required to be backfilled, 30 cm or more.

• Bed type.

For example, for warm temperatures, a height of 50 cm or more is typical.

The length of the row can be any, but it is not recommended to make it too long for two reasons: it will be an obstacle to moving around the garden, the wooden structure will have to be further strengthened with oblique or vertical pegs.

The most important parameter when arranging beds in the country is their width, since ease of use largely depends on it. If you make it too wide, it will be problematic to reach its center. Therefore, the maximum value of the width is considered to be 100 cm.

In most cases (if the planned structure does not have too much complex shape) it will not be difficult to make a bed of boards with your own hands. The size of the boards depends on the size of the future beds, however, if you only have material of insufficient length at your disposal, it does not matter, several boards can always be spliced ​​in length.

The procedure for the construction of a wooden structure:

• Territory preparation.

At this stage, it is necessary to level and dig the site for the structure.

For a rectangular structure, it is necessary to connect 4 boards and attach support bars to them, which should be 20-30 cm longer than future sides. They need to be slightly sharpened with an ax from the free side (to simplify entry into the ground).

• Construction installation.

We hammer the structure into the ground, while it is important to use the level to achieve maximum evenness of the structure.

• Surface treatment of boards.

First of all, the surface is primed (to protect against moisture and pests), then covered oil paint(optional, you can leave the color of the tree).

• Backfill.

The composition depends on the type of construction and the selected culture. But in all cases, the first layer should be drainage.

Most often, they try to plant only one crop in one area, but sometimes they practice joint planting of vegetables in the garden. However, it is worth remembering that not all plants get along with each other. Therefore, the following is a table of compatibility of vegetables in the beds.

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Interesting ideas come to mind for many summer residents and owners of private houses. In the article, we will consider original photo examples and several instructions for creating such beauty.

Mixed planting of vegetables in the garden: examples, photos

More and more summer residents are interested in obtaining not only a large harvest, but also an environmentally friendly one. Therefore, the question arises, how to achieve a quality crop without resorting to chemicals?

An excellent solution is a mixed planting of vegetables. After all, some cultures have a beneficial effect on each other. However, in this matter it is worth being extremely careful, since not all plants like any kind of neighborhood at all.

Thanks to the science of "allelopathy", a table of the neighborhood of vegetables in the garden has been compiled, using which you can significantly reduce the use chemicals for pest control and fertilizer.

Neighborhood of vegetables in the beds - compatibility table

The table below reflects the compatibility of vegetables in the garden. Planting using this information will provide a quality crop with a minimum investment.

Mixed planting vegetables in the garden: examples with photos and tips

Each benevolent or unfriendly neighborhood of vegetables in the garden has its own rationale. For example, strawberries and onions are great neighbors. Onions protect the berry from rot and disease, and if parsley is also planted nearby, it eliminates the appearance of slugs.

Onions are also a great companion for most garden crops, as they keep pests away. The most interesting neighborhood of this plant is with carrots. Both cultures have their own pest - the onion and carrot fly, and the first one cannot stand the smell of carrots, and the second - onions.

Garlic is excellent for pest control, making it a good companion for most crops. However, it is not recommended to plant it next to plants of the legume family, since the latter are leaders in the fence. nutrients, and garlic needs quite a lot of them.

Joint cultivation of crops in the garden can be detrimental to other vegetables. For example, tomatoes should not be planted with cucumbers, as they require varying degrees of watering. Thus, the proximity of these two crops will create difficulties in processing (there will be a need for spot irrigation, which will take much more time and effort).

In addition to the properties of plants, it is necessary to pay attention to their size. For example, when alternating cabbage and radish, the second crop will receive insufficient sunlight, causing the quality of the crop to deteriorate significantly.

So, you have developed an ideal layout for all the vegetables in your summer cottage, but every year the harvest is getting worse. What to do? It is necessary to ensure crop rotation.

Table of crop rotation of vegetables in the beds

Crop rotation is the organization of crop rotation in the garden. Ideally, this process should be continuous and annual. However, in real conditions, this is very difficult to achieve for the following reasons:

• There is not enough information about the contamination of the soil and the presence of pests in it.
• There is no time for precise calculations of the ideal landing option.

Why is crop rotation essential for a good harvest? Every culture has unique features in terms of obtaining nutrients. Someone is looking for them in the surface layers of the soil (for example, a cucumber), someone, in search of water, lowers the roots several meters deep (for example, a watermelon). In addition, the growth of each plant requires (to a greater extent) different elements (for example, for a tomato - phosphorus, for cabbage - nitrogen).

Now imagine that from year to year a certain layer of soil is depleted, and the content of precisely those substances that are necessary for this crop decreases.To make it easier for you to decide how to rotate vegetables, below is a table of vegetable crop rotation in the garden.

Important! The main thing is that the culture does not return to its original place within 3-4 years. During this time, the soil will have time to recover and accumulate required amount nutrients.

How to make a garden bed for cucumbers in the open field: photos, methods

Cucumbers are a rather capricious culture that requires special care. Many believe that it can only be planted in seedlings, however, thanks to many years of selection, there are currently several varieties that can be planted immediately in open ground.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare beds for cucumbers in the spring:

• Correctly choose the direction of the rows - from north to south.
• Fertilize the soil best solutions- cow dung or chicken manure, if they are not available, any mineral fertilizer will do).
• Put the sides (preferably at least 25 cm).

The main secrets of growing cucumbers in the open field are choosing the right planting time (from May to mid-June, depending on the region) and choosing the right variety.

How to make beds for cucumbers - common features

In the case when seedlings are not used, it will not work to grow a quality crop in the usual way (on standard beds). You must use one of the other ways to grow cucumbers in open ground:

• The device beds with a bookmark.
• Installation of a warm bed (including a raised structure).

These methods are non-standard, therefore, they are described in detail below to prevent errors during the arrangement.

How to make beds for cucumbers with a bookmark in the garden

To arrange a bed for growing cucumbers with a bookmark, it is necessary to dig a trench 30 cm deep and successively fill it with the following layers:

No water stagnation.

Warm beds for cucumbers in the open field

How to make a warm bed for cucumbers on the surface of the earth? To do this, it is necessary to build a box (for example, from boards or bricks) and fill it with the following layers:

• Sand.
• Organic waste (leaves, bark, etc.).
• Straw.
• Fertilizer (manure is best).
• Earth and humus.

The main thing is to carefully compact each layer, otherwise the soil will turn out to be too loose, and you should not expect a good harvest.

Advantages of warm beds for cucumbers:

• Lack of dirt from the beds due to the presence of bumpers.
• High yield.
• Aesthetic appearance (you can make beautiful identical beds).

Raised beds for cucumbers in the open field

In an unfavorable climate, it is advisable to arrange raised (or high) beds 40-50 cm high (for convenience, you can make it higher). In this case, the sequence of layers remains the same as in conventional warm constructions on the surface of the earth. Such structures have the following advantages:

• Even faster warming of the soil, which means that the harvest will appear earlier.
• Convenience (no need to bend over to care for cucumbers).

  

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Many summer residents suffer due to the fact that the groundwater is too high on the site. Excessive soil moisture is not suitable for all plants, many develop poorly or die altogether. You can solve the problem by making high beds. With such an organization of landings, it is possible to control the degree of humidity. And a nice bonus to such a decision will be more early term maturation and a much larger yield.

Advantages and disadvantages

In addition to solving problems with waterlogging, high beds in the garden allow you to sow or plant plants 2-3 weeks earlier: raised above the ground, they warm up more actively due to the fact that the sun heats the walls. This is also facilitated by the decomposition processes occurring in plant waste, which make up a significant part of the backfill. Therefore, such beds are also called warm. If you put arcs on such a bed and cover it with spunbond or other similar material, then the crop can be harvested even earlier.

The device is more problematic in regions with a hot climate. The task in this case is not better to heat the earth, but to keep it from overheating. But this can also be solved: use materials with poor thermal conductivity, for example, wood, to fence high beds. For best effect you can make double walls, between which you can fill up, for example, sawdust, lay foam, or you can leave an air gap - the best thermal insulation. It is better to paint the outer wall in a hot climate with white paint or whitewash. It is known that light surfaces heat up less. In this case, it will be possible to save the root system from overheating: in the south, the earth sometimes warms up very much and the higher the plant is, the cooler it will be. And over the beds you can stretch the same covering material. It not only retains heat, but also protects against overheating.

high beds can be a good way out on infertile lands. It is more convenient to lay out the imported soil in the beds, and not distribute it throughout the site. Maintaining fertility contributes to the compost layer, which is located under the layer of earth.

The problem of arid regions is also being solved. In this case, the fence for the high bed is coated with bituminous mastic from the inside or covered with a film, a rolled waterproofing material is laid on the bottom (on the grid) (the roofing material will quickly rot, so something from the modern type of waterproofing is better). Complete waterproofing cannot be achieved, but to keep moisture inside in sufficient quantities - yes.

Carrots - one to one. The best on a high bed, although the same variety was planted on a regular one

As you can see, with a balanced approach, almost any problem can be solved. There are few shortcomings in high beds, but they could not do without them:

• In most cases, you have to make a fence, and these are costs.
• The complexity of the process. Again, making fences takes time and also moves a lot of earth and plant debris, which is hard work.
• In rotting leaves, branches, bark, bears and other similar living creatures feel great. You have to fight them.
• Fertility has to be maintained by updating or completely replacing the "stuffing".

That's all the shortcomings. If you decide on the arrangement of high beds, be prepared for a considerable amount of work. But the harvest will be many times greater. For testing, you can make one or two beds. Then decide if you need them or not.

Dimensions

In one area there are very high beds and not very…

So, the dimensions of the high beds:

• Height - from 20 cm to 50-60 cm. Here you can see how it turns out not an easy task. The higher the bed is raised, the easier it is to process it - to bend less. But the earth and the rest of the "stuffing" will need more. Another point: if a small bed in height can be under the snow and will be covered from severe frosts, then the high one will freeze through: the sides are also open. For those ridges where annuals are sown, this does not play any role, but for perennial strawberries, say, this is a problem. Therefore, the height is chosen based on these considerations. According to the experience of many gardeners for strawberries optimal height- 20 cm. Then we can hope that she will not freeze out.
• Width - from 60 cm to 1.2 m. Choose a distance that makes it convenient for you to process the bed. A distance of 60-70 cm is chosen if the approach to the garden is only on one side. If you can get to it from both sides, you can make a meter or more. It is important that the middle is processed without much stress.
• Long. Here everyone chooses based on the configuration of the site or their desire. There are no recommendations at all.

So that the bed is not too high, part of it can be deepened: dig in 20-30 cm, and already put walls on top. The removed soil will go to backfill (there is often simply not enough land), and the substrate from the lower rough layers can be made thicker. And in order to minimize the cost of maintaining such a bed, you can.

How to fence high beds

You can use anything that can hold the ground. The most durable curbs are made from brick, stone and concrete.

But the brick costs a lot, it takes a long time to fiddle with concrete. A concrete fence is made according to all the rules: first, a formwork into which reinforcement is laid, then it is poured with concrete and they wait until it sets. But the service life is impressive - decades.

Fences for beds made of concrete are the most durable and will never "float"

A brick and stone fence is also folded according to all the rules: on a mortar with dressing. To reduce the consumption of bricks, the walls are placed in half a brick. And so that the earth does not move it, the rows are reinforced with a mesh.

But even in this embodiment, it will be necessary to install support pillars through the meter. If your soil is viscous, heavy, often waterlogged, such walls can be squeezed out. Therefore, put wooden or metal supports that will fix the long walls or make small beds, as for

Fence for high beds made of expanded clay concrete blocks

They also make fences for high beds made of galvanized metal and slate. Slate can be used second-hand, you can buy a new one, wave or smooth - it doesn't matter. Cut the sheets into strips of the required width. There is no need to fear that it is harmful. In slate, asbestos is contained in a bound state, and it does not dissolve in water. It is harmful when it is sawed: the dust rises and through Airways enters the body. To reduce exposure, wear a respirator and wet the incisions.

They make plastic garden fences. Changed siding? Use it. There are old plastic panels - they are in business. But for plastic, a rigid base is needed. They make it from a metal mesh of thick wire.

Grids can become the basis for pebbles or pellets. Only in this case, a double frame will be needed, inside which stones or some other material are poured. This technique is called "gabion" and not only fences for garden beds are made from it, but also fences. But so that water does not seep through the walls from the gabion beds, the inside of the box is lined with a dense film.

The most popular fencing is wood. You can use boards, timber, logs. Wood is good for everyone, except that it rots.

And since all conditions have been created in the high beds to activate this process, destruction occurs quite quickly. You can slow down the process somewhat by painting the boards or by impregnating them with a bioprotective composition. But there is still no guarantee against destruction.

But the material can be used cheap, and sometimes even junk: the remains after construction, slabs, old logs, pallets, etc. If desired, you can even make a fence out of branches. Only the bark is desirable to remove: it is under it that there are many larvae and woodworms. Although...they will also process the wood residue that you lay on the bottom of the backfill. But too many of them are also not needed, so, probably, it is still better to remove the bark.

From the same branches, only freshly cut, you can make a wicker fence. And it will also need to be lined from the inside with a film: to keep water and earth inside.

You can even use straw. It is tied into small bundles, which are interconnected with a wire. It simply cannot be cheaper, but it keeps water and temperature well. The only disadvantage of this option is that such a fence will last a maximum of two seasons, but rather one. But it can then be used as one of the layers.

There are high beds without a fence: the so-called bulk. The soil in them is poured in the form of hills.

To improve drainage, branches are laid inside such a ridge. To reduce the height of the bed (for example, under tomatoes), it is slightly deepened, throwing the soil to the side. After laying the branches, it is covered from above, often there is a need for additionally imported soil. If you can’t choose the row spacing deeply.

The disadvantage of this kind of garden: when watering and during rains, the topsoil is washed off. Therefore, they began to make boxes - to avoid washing out the soil.

Layers of high beds

Framing is only a small part of the job. You still need to fill the received box. It must be said right away that the thickness of the layers depends on the height of the bed that you have chosen, so if any values ​​\u200b\u200bare given, then only approximately. In addition to the size of the bed, the thickness of the layer, for example, the fertile one, is influenced by the choice of plants: 5 cm is enough for someone, and much more is needed for someone.

So, what to pour into a high bed - layers from bottom to top:

1. A metal mesh with a small cell or a layer is laid at the bottom. You can put cardboard. Mesh and geotextile - protection against rodents and moles. Cardboard plays about the same role, but it is less effective.
2. Large wood residues: thick branches, branches, even chocks and bars. This layer serves, firstly, for drainage, and secondly, moisture accumulates in the wood. The more arid the climate in your area, the more wood you need. Moreover, the following wood layers too.
3. Shredded small branches, bark. Other coarse plant residues will do: corn stalks, straw. Their mission is also twofold. They store water, and when decomposed, they release heat and nutrients. But when using corn trunks and straw, keep in mind that the bed will soon sink: these remains quickly rot, but the yield will be high, and fertile land can be sprinkled on top.
4. Paper, thin cardboard. It is usually lined with a thin layer. They use packing cardboard more often, because glossy paper is not suitable, just like newspapers: the lead base of the paint is not at all what plants need to be fertilized with. If there is an old unnecessary burlap (natural), you can lay it.
5. A layer of plant residues: foliage, grass, semi-decomposed sawdust. Be careful with sawdust: they strongly acidify the soil. So sprinkle them under plants that love acidic soil, or neutralize the acidity by sprinkling them with a good layer of ash.
6. Fertile land.

In the last two layers, you can add a good portion of mature compost, as well as sprinkle deeper layers with it. This will speed up the “readiness” of the high bed for planting.

When is the best time to plant and what to plant

It is better to fill a high bed in the fall. During this period, there will be enough “material” and during the winter the processes inside will gain momentum. In this case, you can plant plants in the spring and hope for high yield. It can be done in the spring, but there are unlikely to be any significant differences in yield: the processes have just begun and will not be able to have a noticeable effect on the fertility of the backfill. Although you will definitely feel the difference in the amount of water for irrigation: much less water is required.

One of the high bed options: metal mesh and reinforced polyethylene film

Plant alternation

In the year of the construction of a high bed, plants that require high fertility can be planted on it: cucumbers, zucchini, zucchini, pumpkin, any kind of cabbage, eggplant, tomatoes, Bell pepper. The next year, you can plant greens - spicy-aromatic and leafy. Root crops feel good in the second year.

After harvesting the second crop, fertility must be restored. If the contents of the bed sagged, in the fall they fill up with good earth mixed with mature compost. If there is nowhere to fill up, remove part of the top layer (on compost heap or in another box as part of the backfill) and replace it with fresh soil with fertilizer.

Raised bed for strawberries

It differs only in that covering material is spread over the finished “pie”. Holes are made in it, in which plants are planted. This option leads to the fact that moisture evaporates in minimal quantities, and weeds do not grow in the aisle. The second option - mulching the earth also works well, but evaporation is more intense.

Features of strawberries are that its roots are located mainly on the surface. That's why fertile layer may be small. But this same feature leads to the fact that in severe frosts it can die. Although there is a process of decomposition inside the high bed, warming up the soil, if the bed is without snow and not covered for the winter, it may root system may freeze.

Raised bed for cucumbers and tomatoes

In its structure, it is no different. Is it only because they need poles and crossbars or stretched wire around the edges in order to be able to tie up bushes of tomatoes or lashes of cucumbers.

DIY high beds

Most often, questions arise not when laying layers in high beds, but when making a box. Since women often do a lot of gardening, right up to making fences for garden beds, many points may not be clear to them. To clarify the most difficult ones, we present photo reports of making a box from boards and slate - the most common fences.

From the boards

Several options for how to make high beds from boards were in the photo above. The main snag is usually in the connection at the corners. The easiest way is to overlap them: just put one to the other at 90 ° and knock it down with nails. But there are aesthetes who all strive to do the right thing. And that's right - cut down two boards at an angle of 45 ° and connect them like that. It is this option that will be shown in the photo.

To make it convenient to fix the fence on the ground, vertical bars or pieces of board are nailed in increments of 1.2-1.5 m, the length of which is about 20 cm more than the selected bed height.

The lower end of the bar or board needs to be sharpened - it will be easier to hammer the fence into the ground. Then we take a miter box or circular saw, and cut off the edges at a 45° angle. Putting two boards together creates a perfect 90° angle.

For a strong connection with inside corner set the bar, to which we nail the boards.

Here's what happened. Only he lies "burdens" up. They are driven into the ground

It doesn’t take long to make a fence for high beds made of wood, but it’s even easier to connect the boards end-to-end, and nail metal corners for strength (pictured below).

From logs

It is not more difficult to make a similar box from hewn logs. For example, this option: two long sides from logs, and short ones from pieces of boards.

Whitewash the finished fence: both pest protection and a more attractive look.

from slate

When making beds from flat or wave slate, questions also arise about how to fix it. The easiest way is to dig in. But this is uneconomical: you will have to make the stripes wider by at least 10 cm and still there is no guarantee that the slate will not “float” in the spring. In the muddy earth, it will simply be squeezed out with a mass. You can fix it, but it's too much time and effort.

Therefore, most often corners or pipes are driven in from one or both sides of the sheet, which clamp the slate and prevent it from deviating strongly. In the photo, the corners are driven in only from the outside: from the inside, the mass of layers of the high bed will press, so that the fence will not fall inside.

The joints of the two sheets are insured with a special welded plate. For reliability, they can be bolted to a wooden bar attached from the other side.

A piece of reinforcement with a welded plate - for insuring the junction of two sheets of flat slate

Another option is to make a frame. Attach a bar or a corner to similar racks with welded plates - for whom it is cheaper. And to this frame, attach the slate cut into strips (it holds well with nails, but it’s easier with self-tapping screws).

Frame from a bar in a fence for a high bed

By the same principle - with guides - they make beds from plastic panels and others similar materials. As you understand, especially virtuoso skill is not needed here. The main thing is to keep well.

That agricultural labor is hard work, everyone knows. But in fact, proper site planning, use modern technologies and the latest techniques for arranging beds can make this activity much more pleasant and, importantly, more effective.

The bed is small plot on which certain plants are planted. The use of beds is not a prerequisite for obtaining a crop, you can plant plants randomly and mixed, and there are people who consciously use just this option. It may sound strange, but in reality, this method requires much more effort and, most importantly, knowledge and experience in the field of agricultural technology, so beginner gardeners are still strongly recommended to grow vegetables in the beds: it’s easier to take care of them and plan the rotation of crops on the site ( crop rotation).

From where and how the bed will be located, what shape and filling it will have, ultimately depends not only on the appearance of the site, but also on the crop that will be harvested from it. And this means that arranging the right garden with your own hands means making it easier for yourself to further work on it, improve your mood and increase self-esteem.

Types and forms of beds

There are many types of beds. They can be stationary and temporary, traditional (horizontal, narrow and wide) and more progressive (multi-tiered, warm, high, deep, fast, etc.). You need to choose the most suitable option for yourself, depending on many factors - the size of the site, the features of its location, the crops that are planned to be planted in the garden and, of course, your own tastes and fantasies.

The shape of the beds can also be anything- square, rectangular, trapezoidal, round, curly. Using different variations and moving away from the correct, “boring” plantings will help make the site brighter, more original, and also use the space allotted for the garden more efficiently.

The main conditions that must be followed when determining the design of the beds can be defined as follows:

• it should be convenient to approach the plants in the garden;
• trampling on the bed should be kept to a minimum;
• the location of the bed should take into account the peculiarities of the climate and topography (for example, in lowland areas it is better to raise the bed, and in a dry place, on the contrary, dig deeper).

Thus, the arrangement of beds in the country is a whole science. Below we will consider several options for the beds and analyze their features in order to help everyone decide for themselves what kind of beds they can make so that the site sparkles with new colors and the yield exceeds all expectations.

Horizontal

Let's start with traditional horizontal garden. Usually summer residents approach their arrangement in an extremely simple way: they divide the plot into rectangular or square fragments and plant their favorite vegetables in them. In fact, this option can hardly be called successful, since it does not allow fulfilling the first two of the above requirements. It is much more technologically advanced to use narrow beds (0.5 m wide, on which plants are planted in just two rows).

Such a simple arrangement allows you to provide the culture with individual care and, in addition, full lighting, which ultimately provides a fantastic jump in productivity. not without reason this type of planting is called "harvest bed". The irrational use of the land due to the obligatory wide aisles in this case is just an illusion, since one correctly located plant will surpass the impenetrable thickets planted in the traditional way in terms of yield. But inside the garden bed itself, crops are planted quite close to each other, this is one of the main secrets of the “harvest garden”.

Did you know? More than a hundred years ago, scientists noticed an amazing effect: a dense planting of a plant with a wide distance between rows dramatically increases fruiting: the plant tries to win back space from its neighbors and directs much more effort into the formation of fruits. Proper care of such a bed (and it is very convenient to provide it) and the introduction of the necessary top dressing can increase the yield four times!

Narrow beds have proven themselves well when planting strawberries, nightshade (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers), as well as cucumbers on vertical supports. In science, this method is called the Mitlider method; it has proven itself equally well both for arranging beds in open ground and in special boxes and greenhouses.

It is also convenient to equip narrow beds with bumpers, which will allow water and fertilizer to linger better around the plants and make it easier to approach the row.

In addition to the width of the rows, horizontal beds can also vary in relation to their level. In particular, in addition to the usual beds, located flush with the site, there are deep and raised beds.

As mentioned above, it is worth making deep (low) beds in the garden in those places that are experiencing an acute shortage of water. Also an indication is sandy drying soil with a small amount of fertile layer. On such soil, water does not linger well, and so that the soil does not overheat, it is better to lower the bed a little.

On clay heavy soils, especially if they are constantly washed away ground water, in order to avoid stagnant water and rotting of the root system of plants, it is advisable to use high beds - structures that rise above the level of the site by several tens of centimeters. Such beds warm up a little faster in spring and cool later in autumn, but this difference is rather insignificant.

Important! High beds require especially careful monitoring of the preservation of moisture in the ground, they need to be watered much more often, since they dry out very quickly. Therefore, such a design should really be used on swampy soil, when it is caused by an objective necessity.

The use of high and low beds only allows you to regulate the level of moisture in the soil, these types of beds do not have a direct impact on the design of the site and crop yields.

Another one interesting variety horizontal beds - a warm bed. This term is usually called such filling of the area allocated for the garden bed, which provides natural heating for the plant. The option aims to replace the greenhouse in regions with very short summers. The idea is that before planting the plants, manure or other organic matter is laid on the bed, which, when decomposed, begins to release heat and serves as a kind of heating pad for the roots. Warm beds are indispensable for unexpected frosts, sudden changes in temperature, especially at the beginning of the season.

vertical

A vertical garden bed is a very original and convenient, albeit rather laborious, way to organize a garden in the country. But if there is very little space for vegetables, this option can help solve the problem. An additional bonus for the construction of a vertical bed is that the plants planted in it do not have direct contact with the ground on the site, and therefore do not experience harmful effects weeds and are less susceptible to fungal spores. In addition, it is much better to take care of such a bed - you do not need to bend over three deaths, everything is convenient and affordable. Finally, with the help of such a bed, you can effectively “close a hole in the wallpaper” - to camouflage an old fence or a peeling barn wall.

It has a vertical bed and a number of disadvantages. First of all, the small amount of land in which the plant is located depletes and dries it faster, so such beds need to be fertilized and watered more often. In addition, plants in such beds are much more difficult to endure the cold winter, since the ground in them freezes more.

Very often, strawberries are planted in vertical beds (you can even arrange them on your balcony), but this option is also suitable for greens, salads, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini and other vegetables. They are simply planted in boxes with earth, and then the boxes are placed on pre-nailed shelves or suspended from special supports.

A vertical bed for strawberries can be built with your own hands from improvised materials. To do this, you need two plastic (for example, PVC) pipes of the same length, but different diameters. The narrow one is designed for organizing drip irrigation (you immediately need to drill a large number of holes in it with a drill), the wide one is for planting strawberries.

The bottom of one and the other pipe must first be sealed. Further, the principle is as follows: a narrow pipe is wrapped in burlap or agrofiber, tied with twine, after which it is inserted into a wide pipe, in which holes are first made for seedlings of strawberries with a diameter of about 5 cm. Having placed the smaller pipe exactly in the center, a layer of gravel is first poured into the thick pipe, and then - fertile soil mixed with foam balls or hydrogel for better ventilation and to avoid subsidence of the soil. Further, the structure is fixed (you can build several such pipes and attach them to each other with a “hut”. Strawberry seedlings are planted in the holes, then water is poured into a narrow tube. The vertical bed is ready!

For climbing crops, a vertical greenhouse can be built from metal barrels. With proper care, this method allows you to solve the problem of arranging supports for this type of crop - growing up, they will hang down and braid the barrel. Convenient and very effective, because beautiful beds in the garden are a guarantee Have a good mood his masters!

Multi-tiered

Another option for beautiful beds that you can equip in the country with your own hands is multi-tiered beds. Highly convenient option in terms of space saving. Such a bed is created on the principle of a multi-storey building, when several apartments are located on the land plot above each other instead of one.

The arrangement of multi-tiered beds in the country is real creativity. First of all, you need to plan which cultures and in what order will "live" in your high-rise building. You need to take into account the height of plants, the characteristics of their growth and development, lighting requirements, fruiting period, etc. For example, it is not very convenient to place the tallest plants on the lower “floor”, since they simply have nowhere to develop. It is also better for the most light-loving crops to leave the upper platforms. Climbing plants, depending on your imagination, can be planted at the bottom, directing the stems up along the supports specially provided for this, or, conversely, placed at the top, allowing them to fall down the walls or other structural elements.

From what to make multi-tiered beds and what place on the site to use for their arrangement, it depends only on the owner's imagination. For this purpose, ready-made or self-made ladders are suitable, knocked down from frame boards or round structures constructed from plastic rings, bending pipes and any other material at hand.

Making beds in the country with the help of self-made multi-storey structures has a number of undeniable advantages.

First, this very ergonomic. Caring for such a bed is not associated with a constantly bent back, you can feel comfortable, while it is convenient to approach the plant and perform any necessary procedure with it (tie up, pinch and, finally, harvest).

Secondly, this economically. If you are limited in space, this method will allow you to grow maximum amount crops, and the vacated space can be used for arranging a recreation area or barbecue.

Thirdly, this efficient from an agricultural point of view. With proper planning of a multi-tiered bed, you can actually grow both sun-loving and shade-tolerant crops very successfully on the same segment of the site, and both of them will give an excellent harvest.

And finally, fourthly, this very nice and original. Multi-colored vegetables and fruits and fragrant greens, arranged in a bright ensemble in the form of a living pyramid, are an absolute reason to invite neighbors and acquaintances to visit, who will certainly appreciate your resourcefulness and creativity.

Tiered beds are also in a great way arrange an original and very beautiful flower garden. The principle is the same - shade-resistant flowers are planted at the bottom, and more light-loving and weaving flowers are located on the upper tiers.

How to choose the right place for the garden

When deciding on the type and shape of the beds, we must not forget that it is equally important to choose the right place for arranging it.

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the illumination of the site. You can not place the bed in the shade. The sun should cover it for at least eight hours a day. It - general rule. But there are nuances depending on what kind of crops you are going to plant, since different plants have different demands on sunlight. In addition, it is better that your garden bed is as bright as possible in the morning, has a little shade in the afternoon, and again finds itself in the sun in the evening. From this point of view, you need to place the beds away from tall trees, buildings and hedges that cast a lot of shade.

Important! For photosynthesis, the most favorable is the morning light, when the sun does not burn, but gently caresses the green leaves. Evening rays are not as effective on plants, and midday heat can cause a lot of harm.

If you decide to equip a multi-tiered garden bed, the amount of sunlight and the need for certain crops should be taken into account all the more.

The second point is relief. It is better that the bed is even, so that the water lingers in it evenly. Low-lying places and hills should be avoided if possible, since in the first case the water will melt the roots, in the second case the plants will dry out. Although this problem can be dealt with by arranging high or deep beds, as mentioned above. However, the presence of a slope is a reason to choose another place or level the site, adding the required amount of land. Also on uneven area you can equip terraces with vertical beds, then the soil will not be washed out after each rain and watering. The last option is to plant the plant across the slope.

If the area is uneven, place the bed on the south side. It is noted that in this case, an unsuccessful relief can be compensated for by greater sun activity, and the crop will ripen much faster. The northern uneven slope is the worst place for a garden bed.

Now oh the location of the beds. It is generally accepted that the beds should be equipped from north to south. But this is a general rule, and it does not always work. So, for low-growing crops and a flat area, indeed, one should adhere to this direction of the beds. But it is better to plant tall plants from west to east, this will ensure the most uniform coverage of each bush.

O the shape of the beds we have already spoken. The place must be chosen so that between the rows you can leave a wide (at least 0.5 m) space - a path along which you will walk, caring for the plants. This place can be safely tamped (and even covered with gravel or sown with grass) so as not to knead the dirt after rain or heavy watering. The length of the bed depends on the characteristics of your site, but it is better that it be the same for all rows - it is more convenient to take care of the plants.

A few tips for choosing a place for beds, depending on the crops that you plan to grow on them:

• to save space with radishes, lettuce and dill, you can compact the beds with other crops (for example, with cabbage), instead of allocating a separate place for them;
• root crops are recommended to be used as a frame for planting vegetables, it is also good to use as a border climbing plants such as beans. If planted north of the main crop, they will not obscure it;
• zucchini, melons, watermelons and pumpkins should be planted separately from other vegetables, as they require a large number places and can overwhelm neighbors.

On the whole, it can be said that correct device garden bed will allow you to grow a crop with your own hands on literally one hundred square meters of land, which will fully provide the whole family with fresh vegetables and will allow you to create impressive reserves of vitamins for the winter.

How to make a garden bed with your own hands

How to ennoble the beds with your own hands depends on which bed you have chosen. If we are not talking about a primitive horizontal bed, but about a more complex and progressive design, there are two main options:

1. purchase ready-made beds for summer cottages, which will only have to be assembled and installed;
2. make your own design.

Since the first option involves simply following the manufacturer's instructions, consider a more economical and creative option - original beds using improvised materials.

What you need to create a garden bed in the country, tools and materials

Anything can be used as a basis for creating various progressive structures - plastic, tiles, straw, wood, pipes, ready-made boxes or barrels, slate, shingles, etc. Any chosen material has its own advantages and disadvantages that must be considered, before making a choice.

Important! When arranging beds for vegetables and fruits, be sure to use materials that do not emit harmful substances. For example, car tires, cinder blocks, slate, as well as wooden parts treated with non-food dyes and varnishes are best used for equipping flower beds, but not for planting edible plants. In extreme cases, it is allowed to use such materials with their preliminary wrapping in a special film intended for garden work.

So, for arranging the beds, you can use:

In addition to the finishing material, you will need fertile soil, gravel for drainage, sand, mulch, as well as tools, the set of which depends on the type of construction (bayonet shovel, building level, tape measure, hammer, trowel, brush, drill, self-tapping screws, welding machine etc.). For decoration and creating supports for climbing plants, it is also worth stocking up with a cord, twine or other garters.

How to build a garden bed in the country with your own hands, a step-by-step guide

Let us consider in more detail the technology for arranging a high, multi-tiered, fast and warm garden bed.

Raised (high)garden bed from the boards in the country is done as follows.

To equip the bottom row, the first thing to do around the perimeter of the beds is to remove the turf along the width corresponding to the size of the board. We free the site itself from debris and weeds. Next, boards are laid out on the prepared strips, while it is very important that the entire structure is on the same level (if necessary, an additional plank should be placed in the “sagging” places or, conversely, some earth should be removed in the highest places). With a rubber mallet, the boards are knocked close to each other so that there are no gaps between them. Then the structure is fastened with self-tapping screws.

Then we build up the structure with several rows of boards. It is better to overlap subsequent rows, so the structure will be more stable.

At the bottom of the resulting space, a layer of agrofiber or metal mesh is first laid. This will protect the future planting from weeds and rodents, as well as protect it from pests and fungal diseases. To protect the soil from being washed out, a layer of ordinary cardboard can be laid on top of the mesh and only then the drainage is filled up. In the absence of screenings or crushed stone, broken bricks or other suitable material can be used.

Important! Do not lay a film on the bottom of the beds. In this case, the earth may overheat and, in addition, the lack of access to the soil of earthworms and other microorganisms necessary for the normal life of the plant will adversely affect the crop.

It's time to fill the bed with fertile soil. If it is not possible to buy a ready-made mixture in a store, you can use the soil from the site, thoroughly cleaning it from the roots and weed grass and, if possible, mixed with peat or compost. The sides of the beds should be 3-4 cm above the soil layer. After planting seedlings, it is recommended to mulch the soil, this will protect it from freezing and drying out.

The bed is ready, it remains to take care of the irrigation system and, if desired, organize a paved area around the structure.

Such a bed can be equipped not only on open ground, but also on a concrete site. In fact, this option is even simpler, since it is not associated with the need to get rid of sod and weeds, and, in addition, you already have a blind area around the garden!

Did you know? It is not recommended to process a tree for arranging a bed with antiseptics for environmental reasons, therefore, to increase the service life of such a structure, it is better to use rotting-resistant varieties of trees, for example, oak.

Using the described principle, a high bed can be made from any other available materials.

Now let's see how to do multi-tieredgarden bed from the boards with their own hands. Here the task is more complicated, in particular, much more time needs to be devoted to correct marking, clearly defining the boundaries of each tier in order to properly plan their width (here it is imperative to take into account the varieties of plants being planted, since each of them requires a certain amount of personal space for normal development).

We pre-protect the lower, largest tier in terms of area with mesh and cardboard, subsequent ones can be done without observing such precautions.

Filling the beds is carried out taking into account the needs of their future inhabitants to the composition of the soil.

On the top floor of a multi-level bed, you can arrange picturesque structures from wicker branches or bamboo sticks, which will use climbing crops planted on this tier as a support.

Arrangement straw quick beds- a great option for an uncultivated and weedy area.

The area allocated for the garden is covered with cardboard (it is recommended to fix it with studs so that it does not blow away with the wind), lay a layer of straw on top (at least 30 cm) and plant our seedlings, making cruciform cuts in the cardboard with a knife. It is good if you put manure, compost or other organic matter under a layer of cardboard.

Such a bed prevents the development of weeds (they cannot break through a thick layer of paper) and does not allow the soil to dry out.

Quick straw bed- a great way to grow potatoes.

And finally warm garden. It can be done in three ways - on uncultivated land, in a box or in a trench. In the first option, the place chosen for the bed is fenced off with boards, a layer of wood chips is laid out on the slightly trampled grass inside (you can use waste after winter pruning of trees). The branches are covered with three layers of paper (cardboard freed from adhesive tape, newspapers, packaging material, etc. will do). Next, the “heater” itself is placed: humus, compost or manure with a layer of at least 10 cm. It must be covered with dry grass and left until next spring, regularly watered during the summer. When the time comes, on top of the grass we pour a layer of soil mixed with humus (another 10 cm) and plant seedlings.

Similarly, a warm bed can be arranged in a pre-prepared wooden box, the height of its sides should be at least 30 cm.

The service life of such warm beds is not limited to one year, but "biofuel" does not work for more than three seasons. But there is a way to set up a self-heating vegetable garden that can last up to ten years. The task, however, is quite laborious, but it is worth it.

In the place allocated for the bed, a trench is dug for at least two bayonets of a shovel. Wood material is laid at the bottom: larger in the center and small at the edges. If the soil is clayey, you first need to pour a layer of sand into the trench, and in especially cold regions, lay empty plastic bottles to create an air lock. Sod is laid out on top with the roots up, then a wooden box is installed, 2/3 filled with dry grass and paper. Upper layer- soil mixed with manure or compost in a ratio of 1: 1. Such a bed should stand for at least a year before crops are planted in it.

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Tired of working bent over in the garden? We will tell you a few simple ways how to make beds that will greatly facilitate your work as a summer resident. Think about what problems you face in your garden in the first place, and choose the solution that will help you.

How to make beds: do-it-yourself warm beds

If after each weeding you get the feeling that only a three-ton press can straighten you, then this idea is for you. Comfortable high beds require a certain amount of money and effort at the initial stage.


The first step is to assemble a box that will hold the soil. If you are planning a long bed, then every meter you need to install a stiffener from a wooden plank inside the box so that the side walls do not crack under the weight of the soil.

It is advisable to make a metal mesh bottom for the formwork (it is sold in hardware stores). This net will protect your landings from attacks by moles and mole rats.

The bottom of the bed and the space between the beds can be lined with cardboard so that weeds do not grow. In our case, we installed beds on a platform covered with agrofibre.

At the bottom of the beds we put old branches, tops and other organic waste. Then we fill our beds with organic fertilizers and earth, and we can plant seedlings.

We got these beautiful warm beds.

Little advice. If your garden is regularly ruined by cats, arranging a toilet in it, then here reliable way drive them away from the beds. Put a net on top - cats won't like it, and plants won't hurt.

As you can see, to make beautiful beds, you need to work a little. But the advantages of such beds are very significant, because they are easier to process. And they will serve you for many years if you responsibly approach their construction and carefully do all the work.

Sides can be made from a wide variety of materials.

Some gardeners even lay them out of brick. That is to say, forever!

And here is an example of a bed of the original form.

How to make beds that do not require weeding

But if all these ideas seem complicated to you, and the costs of their implementation are excessive, then here is perhaps the easiest way to make your garden work easier. Use agrofibre.

It prevents weeds from growing by blocking light from reaching the soil, and also helps retain moisture by preventing the sun from drying out the soil. First, spread the agrofibre on your garden bed, and then make cuts with a knife, and plant seedlings in these cuts.

This is especially convenient when growing strawberries, as the agrofibre prevents the tendrils from growing to the ground.

How to make beds from improvised materials

If you need to fit your vegetable garden in a minimal area, then vertical beds are exactly what you need. With a vertical approach, plants are planted not in open ground, but in containers located above the ground in several tiers. Vertical beds can be made as well as from ready-made modules for vertical gardening, and from improvised materials.

For example, for a vertical bed of wooden boxes, you will need to sheathe the boxes on the inside with foil using a stapler and then fill them with soil. At the bottom of the box in the film, it is necessary to make holes so that water does not stagnate. Excess water will fall on the lower tier.

Vertical beds are easy to care for, but care must be taken to water them properly as there is little soil in such beds and it dries quickly. The most popular solution is a drip irrigation system - a small pipe with holes is laid throughout the garden, from which water flows.

At the same time, the constructive part of the vertical garden can be made even from improvised means.

There are many unexpected options for vertical beds when plastic bottles come into play. For example, holes are made in the lid of each of the bottles and only the upper and middle rows of the beds are watered, while water enters the lower rows from the holes in the bottle caps.

How to make vertical beds from pipes.

PVC pipes s is an excellent material for vertical beds. You can use them both as a large-scale vegetable garden and as an ornamental vegetable garden.

In addition to PVC pipes, roof tides can also be taken as the basis for the beds. In fact, any container similar in shape to a pipe is suitable for vertical beds.

You can create a picturesque unique corner with beds in the country as quickly as possible, without unnecessary labor and Money. We offer several design options for beautiful garden beds, which any summer resident can implement.

Garden beds: site preparation and formation features

Soil preparation is the most time-consuming stage. The labor expended will pay off with high vegetable yields and lush growth. flower crops.

Primary double digging work for a raised bed:

• determine the structure of the soil;
• moisten the area well with a spray and let dry for 2 days;
• loosen with a fork to a depth of 30 cm and remove all weeds;
• water the site and let the earth dry out for a day;
• add compost in a layer of 5 cm, in clay soil add sand with a layer of 2.5 cm and mix everything to a depth of 30 cm;
• water moderately and leave to dry for a day;
• dig the first trench 30 cm wide and deep, transfer the soil to the end of the bed, pour the soil from the second trench into the first;
• loosen the subsoil layer with a pitchfork to a depth of 30 cm;
• do the same for the rest of the trenches;
• cover the last trench with soil from the initial one;
• water in moderation and let stand for a day;
• apply fertilizer, loosen to a depth of 12 cm and tamp and level with a board, standing on it with all its weight (to remove excess air).

Plants can be planted after 1-2 hours. In order not to compact the soil, they dig up the bed, standing on the board. All work on digging the beds takes from 7 to 12 hours.

Optimal dimensions beds - 90–150 cm wide, 100 cm long, 5–25 cm above the soil surface. With this option, with improved structure and aeration, a favorable microclimate is formed under the cover of densely planted plants.

Narrower beds (45–75 cm) are made for plants that are tied to supports.

It is important to determine the type of soil and the level of acidity:

1. On stony soils there are up to 30 stones per 1 m².
2. Peaty soil dark brown or gray color, has a spongy structure and is rich in plant remains.
3. Poorly drained, covered with moss or green growth. It grows rushes and sedges.
4. On alkaline soil, clover predominates among weeds, and on acid soil, sorrel, plantain or creeping buttercup.
5. On fertile soil, stinging nettle, white gauze, sow thistle and wood lice grow wildly.

The mechanical composition of the soil is determined by manual test:

• heavy loam - rolls into a dense ball without shine, which can be rolled into a cord;
• medium loam - there is no graininess of sand, the ball is dense, it collapses when rolling into a cord;
• light loam - the ball is stable, but a granular structure is felt, in wet weather it does not stick to shoes in large pieces;
• dusty loam - rolls into a weak ball, silky and soapy to the touch;
• sandy loam - a dense ball, rough to the touch, sticks to shoes in wet weather;
• sand - does not roll into a ball, the graininess of sand is felt;
• clay - sticks to shoes in wet weather, the ball is strong, shiny.

Soil imperfections are easy to fix:

• loams are enriched by adding humus-containing organic fertilizers;
• sandy soils are dug up in spring, and not in autumn, they add a lot of organic matter - 10-15 cm (peat, humus, rotted manure), close up during cultivation and then apply mulching;
• clay soil in 3–4 years, with the application of organic fertilizers every autumn (up to 15 cm layer), will turn into fertile soil.

The soil in the beds should be with small lumps before sowing, but not broken into dust.

How to prepare the soil for planting (video)

Ready-made purchased beds: advantages, disadvantages and types of structures

Ready-made beds, which can be purchased in specialized stores, greatly facilitate the work of the gardener and allow you to keep the garden well-groomed without any hassle, which is especially important for lazy gardeners.

The sides of various materials prevent the erosion of the soil after rains and the ingress of weeds.

1. Beds made of planed boards with a thickness of 2.5 to 5 cm from pine or larch wood. An antiseptic that covers the garden bed from the inside and outside protects it from rotting and mold for 6 years. Individual customer requests are taken into account.
2. To form the boundaries of the beds and divide into separate segments, a flexible Ecolat profile with dimensions of 25m × 14cm × 0.7 cm or 25m × 19cm × 0.7cm is used.
3. Galvanized strips are light and easy to assemble. They can be left under the snow. Suitable for both greenhouses and open ground. You can cover with a film, using the bed as a greenhouse.
4. The panel garden plastic is steady against differences of temperatures. garden structures various shapes created due to the flexibility of the material.
   Beautiful garden beds: the art of joint planting of vegetable crops

A reasonable combination of crops that have different requirements for growing conditions will prevent soil depletion. In joint plantings, plants have a beneficial effect on each other.

Mixed fit options:

• Strawberries planted in 2 rows in August. Parsley is sown between them in the spring. Which repels slugs.
• One row of lettuce is planted in the center of the bed, and a tomato plant is planted every meter. Around him - 2 rows of spinach. Followed by 2 rows of cauliflower. The composition is completed by 2 rows of chives mixed with radish. The second sowing is carried out after adding compost.

Thus, with joint plantings per unit area, a high total yield of vegetables is obtained.

Along the path leading to the house or against the background of the fence, you can place a vegetable mixborder on a high bed. Slab, stone or paving slabs - suitable option framing. The width of the beds is 80 cm. A one-sided mixborder is being built along the fence. Tall plants (corn, sunflower, dahlias, gladioli) are planted in the first row. This is followed by tomatoes, cabbage, carrots, table beets, mixed with beetroot and lobelia. The composition is framed by radishes, lettuce, parsley, dill, fennel, lovage.

How to make beautiful garden beds

It happens that land holdings have a complex terrain - hills or elevations. With vertical harmonization of country, garden and private plots apply geoplastics - artificial modeling of the territory. Here you can not do without original and unusual beds. Flat, like a table, a plot of land may seem boring - you can transform it yourself with the help of vertical beds.

Arrangement of an earthen column:

• in the center of a strong bag without a bottom, 120 cm long and 30–50 cm wide, place plastic pipe for irrigation with a diameter of 5–10 cm, with holes of 8 mm;
• pour perlite into the tube, which retains moisture well and gradually releases it into the soil;
• fill the column bag with turf and leafy soil mixed with humus, mineral fertilizers and any anti-compacting agent;
• on the walls of the bag, pierce cross-shaped holes with a diameter of 3 cm at a distance of 10 cm from each other;
• plant seeds, root suckers, stepchildren for growing vegetables in the holes.

The walls of an earthen column can be woven from a vine or a frame can be made from stakes or battens.

You can limit the edges of the beds by using various objects that have served their purpose. An old cart, a cast iron pot, or a faience sink will do. With the help of such beds, placed in any corner of the garden, you can significantly increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site.

Round and triangular beds

The beds of strict geometric shapes correspond to the laws of regular design. Round, triangular, bed-peninsula, can be raised or located at ground level. The paths between the beds are paved with tiles or covered with gravel, sand - any available materials.

Options for decorative railings and sides

You can grow potatoes, bulbs or herbs in pots, tubs or wicker baskets.

A bed made from an ordinary strong bag is mobile and can be located anywhere.

Decorative fences are made of cobblestones, colored bricks or stained or painted slabs. Fences made of wooden chocks will allow you to make a bed of any shape and configuration.

Old tires are painted in any color. They can be scattered around the site or build a pyramid of several pieces.

How to make beds with your own hands (video)

Wooden pyramidal beds

A vertical pyramidal bed with differences in ground level is constructed from wood. The sides are made from boards or old boxes without a bottom. Most often, the pyramid is built from 5 tiers. Pyramid beds are well warmed by the sun, but need more intensive watering. The wood must be impregnated with an antiseptic that is safe for plants.

Making beds in boxes

It is not difficult to give the look of the box to the old kitchen sink. Falling plants are placed in plastic boxes- you just need to cut the bottom and put them on top of each other in two tiers. Hanging boxes attached to a wall or fence will expand usable area site.

The boxes must be washed well and treated with antiseptics.

Features of the design of beds for roses and other flowers

Roses are grown in containers or in high beds from a variety of materials - wood, plastic, stone and metal.

Container depth:

• for miniature roses is 25 cm;
• for undersized patio roses - 30 cm;
• for medium-sized roses - at least 40 cm.

To ensure drainage, the container is placed on bars, or broken bricks or gravel are poured onto the bottom. The soil should contain compost or peat and the necessary mineral fertilizers.

Along the edge of the garden, you can plant spring or summer flowers, or ampelous plants.

High beds: advantages and disadvantages (video)

The beds are located on a site well warmed by the sun, away from tree and shrub plantings. In dry weather, water as the soil dries.

Growing vegetables and flowers in own garden not only gives aesthetic pleasure, but also allows you to save significant funds. The costs of seeds, fertilizers, arrangement of greenhouses and garden beds as a result pay off on average eight times.