Rose beds how to plant plants in ridges. Mittlider, Kurdyumov, Lyadov or Rozum: choosing the best "fashion beds"

If you look at all the original beds, videos and articles about which resources for summer residents are literally inundated with, we will notice: there are very wide passages between them. Beds and crops do not move and do not change places for years. When watering, water is delivered only to the root zone of cultivated plants. On the beds themselves, the soil is never either loosened or hilled. Such ideas are far from new: they were first officially proposed by American agricultural expert Jacob Mittlider about 40 years ago.

Beds according to Mittlider

Their size is rigidly defined: a width of 45 cm and limited on all sides by earthen sides up to 10 cm high. It is very important that the paths between the beds are more than twice as wide as themselves (105 cm). Beds and paths are formed strictly on the day of sowing, but not in advance, and with the obligatory use of prescribed mineral fertilizers. On each narrow garden plants are placed differently depending on the species, but mostly in two rows: one along each side. Compact cultures such as onions are placed in 4 rows, and large ones (tomatoes, zucchini, etc.) - in one row along one of the sides. Each crop has its own recommendations for row spacing. In the process of growing, vegetables are fed every 7-10 days with a certain mixture of mineral fertilizers and watered. The use of organics is not considered.

Growing vegetables in Mittlider's beds is an occupation for people of a pedantic warehouse. It is necessary to carefully measure the components of the feeding mixture and then strictly follow the feeding schedule. No improvisation is allowed. As a rule, gardeners who use the system are usually very satisfied with the crops, but after a few years they somehow refuse it: the share of “obligation” is too large, which either time or health is not enough to fulfill. In addition, along with the development of the fashion for "natural products", the Mittlider method began to look blatantly "chemical": only mineral fertilizers, no compost.

Beds of Lyadov

The author admits that he started from the ideas of Mittlider. But he raised the beds 15-25 cm above the path (enclosing them in boxes). For a garden located on Far East, where summer cottages can be flooded in spring, at the end of summer, and in its middle too, this is very the right decision. In addition, the beds at Lyadov are not narrower than the aisles, but are approximately equivalent in width to them.

But where to collect so much land to fill the boxes? It's not real for everyone. Therefore, the required volume is achieved using grass, straw, foliage or sawdust, which are watered with ready-made activators or herbal infusions, and everything is covered from above with earth from the passages. All types of vegetables are sown or planted in it (in 2 or 4 rows, depending on the crop). The author uses “folk” top dressing: infusion of grass, manure, and so on.

After harvesting, green manure is sown on the beds, leaves or plant residues are added and thus prevent them from falling through. The passages between the beds are sown with a lawn or covered with sawdust.

In the photographs of the author himself, the beds look very good, and his work can be quite advised to gardeners from other “wet” and cool regions. But in dry and hot places or on sandy soils, they may not live up to expectations: they will dry out quickly. Even in average places, it is better to first try to make one short bed in order to assess: will the rather big labor costs be justified by the increase in yield? And in any case, get involved in dung and herbal supplements it doesn’t follow, so as not to pump up the crop with the very nitrates that everyone so wanted to get away from in organic farming.

Rosum's beds

The Ukrainian gardener turned the beds into raised ridges 30 cm wide, placing them every 60 cm. Only on one side of each ridge he laid a path sown with cereals (or green manure), on the other, he made a groove 25 cm deep and filled it with organic waste. From below - branches, from above - softer straw, last year's leaves and other plant debris, which are spilled with a solution of one of the EM preparations. All this wealth is sprinkled with earth.

Maybe such a scheme is good in blessed climatic conditions with an abundance of sun, but when applied in other regions raises many questions. Very little (only 25%) of the land is allocated to the vegetables themselves, and a lot to the surfaces surrounding them. Moreover, the gardener’s worries will not decrease from this: to improve the soil, you will have to put new organic matter into the ditches all the time, since the old one will quickly settle, and fuss over the paths (they need to be mowed, reseeded, and so on). To be honest, in the performance of many "video bloggers" these beds look very unappetizing, and the vegetables growing on them are by no means amazing. So if you are inspired, then experiment on a small area.

Using various methods of preparing organic beds on my site, this year I made another discovery for myself - Bed Rozum and was pleasantly surprised by the result. After reviewing several webinars in the winter B.A. Bagel on this topic, I got a burning desire to create such a bed at home, taking into account all the features of my site (loam soil, lack of opportunity for additional irrigation - the source of water is only snow and rain) and the presence of a sufficient amount plant residues, including a sawn old willow from last year. That is, you won’t need to go anywhere and, even, you won’t need to carry anything with a wheelbarrow - everything is at hand.

So, what is the essence and difference of such a bed from the usual or even familiar and beloved by all of us " warm beds»?

Firstly, it can be done right in the spring, just before sowing.

Secondly, to create it, no additional structures in the form of boxes or other frames are needed.

And thirdly: there are no extra labor costs for digging and digging a deep ditch with throwing the soil back and forth to “bury” the laid organic matter, as in warm garden. All organic matter lies on the surface with access to oxygen on the principle of forest litter and begins to decompose immediately into biologically active substances with the release of carbon dioxide, directly giving nutrition to plants during their growth, without rotting and unnecessary burning-overheating with emissions of harmful gases.

Almost the entire area beds of V. Rozum it is constantly covered with a "blanket" that traps underground dew and the heat released during its condensation. Even during the heat and drought this summer, it was humid and cool there and the plants did not retard their growth, unlike the control plot, where I did not put organic matter on purpose to check and compare the effect Rosum's beds With normal conditions on the usual beds.

How I made the Rose Garden.

So to speak, for the “purity of the experiment”, I chose an uncultivated area, almost turf, the vegetation of which was mainly burdock, dandelions, timothy grass, couch grass, thistle and annual shoots of cow parsnip. By May 20, everything turned green and grew together. She mowed, raked to the side and outlined the dimensions of the future beds 1.2m (30cm + 60cm + 30cm) X 4m.

Further, in no case is digging and no shovel !!! We take our favorite hoe reinforced, approximately deepening cm by 4, we chop off pieces of turf, shake off our little land with worms from it, and put the remaining “washcloths” to the side. By the way, this bunch of roots was immediately transferred to a neighboring garden bed, where seedlings of zucchini and cucumbers were planted and grew right into the turf, still under cut 5-liter bottles.

So, processed the entire area hoe(burdocks and cow parsnip were simply chopped off - the plants are biennial, they will not grow back, the remaining roots rot right in the garden, do not germinate). Further, along the width of the future ridges, rabbit droppings with sawdust were scattered, approximately 2 buckets per 4 pog. meters. spilled Radiance-3 and the top most fertile layer I carefully removed the row spacing with a pick-up shovel and laid it without turning (!) On a layer of litter, forming ridges.

Tyapkoy formed a V-shaped ditch. The preparation of the beds is ready, it remains only to fill the moat with organic matter. And here is the most interesting! A layer of woody organic matter is laid at the bottom - branches up to 2 cm in diameter with leaves (in my case they were dry after winter), then hay-straw and a layer of fresh green mass. All this was layered with EM preparation Radiance-3.

What does it give? - providing air to plant roots and beneficial aerobic microorganisms, i.e. fresh organics from above do not cake, do not block the access of air, and bacteria work in the entire layer equally and quickly, providing nutrition to our plants.

In "classic" Rosum's bed 3 crops are sown on the borovka: Beets + onions + carrots. I, as a longtime fan and experimenter of mixed plantings and intermediate crops, decided to leave this scheme and supplement it. In the very edge of the boletus, beets were sown with grooves on one side (intentionally thickened - after 5 cm), on the other - carrots. Middle - onion - sevok + dill. Radishes were sown between onions and beets and onions and carrots (it didn’t interfere with anything - at the moment when the beets and carrots had 1-2 true leaves, the radish was already harvested). In addition, seedlings were planted in the garden: basil, undersized marigolds, strawberry seedlings (and even gave a harvest) and Savoy cabbage on the ends.

Sprayed 3 times during the summer biococktail. There were practically no weeds. I tried to mulch, but because of the density of plantings, there was simply nowhere ... the whole area was occupied.

According to the results: The harvest of radish, dill (just a record one: both greens (and dried, and in blanks), basil has already been harvested: all summer - leaves from the palm of your hand and continues to grow, cabbage - leaves for cabbage rolls and green borscht, berries from large-fruited strawberries - and new mustaches are perfectly rooted among beets and carrots.

Onion harvest - not very large, but sweet salad - a bucket. Marigolds bloom beautifully! And this is only an intermediate "harvest - the main one is still in the garden, but the fact that I already see beets in August of quite an impressive size pleases me and makes me draw conclusions.

I have used mulching with mowed grass on my site before and the effect pleased me - I saw the result: it is always wet under the mulch, weeds do not grow, my plants are comfortable, neither cold nor heat are afraid. One good shelter was enough from the beginning of summer until the fall.

But what I discovered this season, using EM technology and EM drugs for the first time, just shocked and inspired me. Laid first time organics on Rosum's bed with the drug Radiance-3 it lasted for two weeks - it just melted before our eyes - the wooden skeleton of the first layer was already visible. I had to report it constantly - but the volume is not small .... But, isn’t it a joy when everything you give this season right away works for the harvest and increases the fertility and humus content in your soil!

Natalya Valerievna Shtypulyak "Fertility", Yaroslavl

I got acquainted with the information about the beds of Rozum, recommended to me by you in the comments. For myself, I concluded - this is not for me. So I won't do it. Although, if we take the final result, that is, when such a bed, folded in the fall, is already ready for spring planting, then we can most likely expect a good harvest. But, there is but...

Firstly, to create a cone in the soil, you need to pass a shovel along the beds more than once. This is a lot of work. Secondly, it is necessary to find a lot of organic matter at once, and although there is enough organic waste on the site in autumn, I am sure that there will not be enough of them. And if enough, then only for one bed. In addition, I do not see it possible to annually cut down large trees or trees to lay them at the bottom of the trench. Even if there are trees on the site, in the garden or somewhere else that can be used, it is not at all easy to cut them down, chop them somehow, drag them into the garden and lay them on the bottom of the beds. This, I tell you, is labor cubed.

We go further, during the winter this organic matter will settle heavily, which means that in the spring you need to run around the site in search of mowed grass to fill the voids. The authors of various sites describing this method advise putting food waste on this bed in winter. I think they do not know what they are talking about and did not spend the winter on the site. Why it will not work to put food waste in the garden, I will not even explain. Excuse me. Some gardeners make such beds in the spring. But in this case, you will have to report to the organic.

It is also proposed to fold such a bed directly on the sod without digging. Proudly adding at the same time that you don’t even need to take a shovel in your hands. And use only a hoe or flat cutter to remove upper part turf. Great! This is already work not just in a cube, but in an increasing geometric progression. To create such a bed, you need to drive a platoon of soldiers to the site.

Of course, you can not remove the sod. What will we get then, and where to plant horticultural crops and seeds, because there is no earth dug out when creating a trench? If, say, on wheatgrass we lay out the trunks and branches of trees, then different tops, then grass. Yes, wheatgrass will cover all this only in the first warm month with its mass. He will also say thanks for feeding with em preparations. And weeding it will not work, the branches will interfere. In order to get rid of turf according to this principle, on the contrary, it is necessary not to make an air cushion from branches, but to lay something very dense on the turf, completely blocking light and retaining moisture, which is necessary for microorganisms. I am already sharing my experience, I did it according to this principle.

Let's talk about EM drugs. Who cares, but I feel sorry for the money to purchase them. This is not a cheap product, but you need a lot of it. What else I want to say, every year for growing crops, starting from planting seeds, it is necessary to add fertile soil, for example, compost. Such a bed is not the source of this land (only after a few years this will be possible). This means that a lot of work needs to be done to create such beds, and then also to drag the earth out of the compost for mulching the crops growing on the sides of the organic trench. It's definitely not for me. It is very labor and energy intensive.

So, what should be the ideal bed according to Rosum:

1. It must be formed on a cultivated area without weeds, that is, the land must be prepared.
2. The trench must be deep enough to create condensate in which carbon dioxide will dissolve.
3. Important use a large number organics at the same time.
4. There should be enough soft mulch that covers well upper layer, treated with em preparations.

What I want to convey, I will try to explain. At some stage of developing my site, I realized that everything should be interconnected. That is, a chain of recurring cases should be built. Everything that is done on the site should be both the end of the previous case and the beginning of the next one. The only way. Nothing should fall out or be brought in from outside.

For example, the importation of purchased land. Let's say you are lucky and you bought uninfected fertile land. What will happen in a year or two? The earth will give its own, part of it will leave with precipitation. What's next? Buy again? The earth must be grown where it will be used, cared for like a favorite pet. Like, I wrote a lot on the Green blog.

For Rosum's beds, every year, a lot, a lot of different organic matter is needed. And getting it will not be a continuation of the previous case, which means it will fall out of the organic chain you created.

For the warm season garden plot a sufficient amount of compost soil is formed. It is created from the result of your daily activities: weeding in the garden, mowing the grass, cleaning the toilet container sprinkled with sawdust, preparing dinner, collecting fallen branches or leaves, thinning branches on fruit trees and shrubs, and much more. This is the creation of an organic chain.

If you grow compost soil right in the garden, without running around with it all over the site, then natural result such labor will be obtaining a crop that pleases the eye and caresses the ambition of the gardener.

This technology for arranging beds was invented by him for reasons of extreme necessity: in a hot region in summer, the situation with water is extremely tense and gardeners invent all kinds of irrigation methods or agricultural techniques that significantly reduce the need for plants in water.

In central Russia (we are on the border of zones 4 and 3), the weather does not always indulge in warmth (it doesn’t happen year after year), however, there are no problems with water, but we also have such a technology for arranging beds will come in handy:

• a thick layer of organic matter is laid, which, when overheated, releases heat, which is important in a cold region for comfortable living plants in the garden
• multi-layered organics will nourish the plants for several years, and the lower layer of thick pieces of wood, in general, for 8-10 years.
• the second from the bottom drainage layer of branches works as a condensate accumulator, which makes it possible not only to reduce watering, but also, in general, to exclude watering as one of the stages technological process in growing vegetables

1) WARM BEDS OF ROZUM VLADIMIR NIKITOVICH. ABOUT THE AUTHOR AND IDEAS

And the warm beds of Rozum V.N. became another development of their own skills and abilities. The idea was given to the master by abandoned gardens and unkempt lands, infertile soils. The result is a high yield, complete naturalness of products, minimal labor costs.

2) WARM BED OF ROSUM. 4 REASONS TO INCREASE THE FERTILITY OF YOUR EARTH

3) BASICS OF ORGANIC FARMING IN THE WARM BEDS OF V. N. ROZUM

Edge effect.

The use of mycorrhiza.

Mixed landings.
principles of allelopathy.
EM technology.

4) WARM GROUNDS WITH YOUR HANDS: STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS FOR MANUFACTURING

Step 1: Marking the garden. Width - 1.2 meters, length - arbitrary. On both sides - tracks (up to 0.6 meters).
Nuance: the Rosum bed is created on a prepared (!) Plot. If this is heavy soil under the weeds, we will prepare it by loosening the ground, removing the weeds. Then we proceed to create a special bed.
Step 2: Creating a wedge-shaped recess (groove) (depth - 25 cm) in the center of the bed. To do this, you can use a hoe or Fokin's flat cutter. We place organic components in the groove: branches cut from fruit trees, grass, straw, last year's leaves. We tamp a little.
Step 3: Use of EM technology. We pour the organic matter laid into the groove of the bed with an EM-A solution in accordance with the instructions for the reproduction of beneficial microorganisms and their colonization of the substrate.

How to make beds according to Mittlider

The dimensions of the beds are strictly defined - their width is 45 cm, earthen sides 10 cm high are located along the edges, and the passages between the ridges should be 90-100 cm wide. The location of the beds also does not tolerate variations - only from east to west, strictly in a sunny place, otherwise the result will be far from ideal.

However, making such ridges is still half the battle - the placement of vegetables on them is also important. Each culture according to the Mittlider method has a strictly verified planting pattern. So, onions and other compact crops are planted in 4 rows, squash and tomato bushes in 1 row along one of the sides, medium-sized vegetables and root crops - in 2 rows.

And finally, the most milestone is the regular application of mineral fertilizers to the soil. Before planting, light soils are saturated with calcium and boron at the rate of 100 g per 1 linear meter, and for heavy soils this rate is doubled. Then, every 7-10 days, the ridges are fertilized with a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and molybdenum (60 g per 1 linear meter). Minerals scatter dry in the aisles, after which the ridges are thoroughly and plentifully watered.

The formula can be purchased at ready-made, but you can do it yourself. To do this, you have to mix 420 g of azofoska, 280 g of kalimag, 190 g of carbamide, 110 g of superphosphate and 2 g of molybdic and boric acid.

Pros and cons of beds according to Mittlider

Over the decades of the existence of Mittlider's theory of gardening, millions of people have tried it on their site, but most of them returned to other options after a few seasons. This is due to the fact that, despite the high yield, not everyone is able to follow the advice of the author.

Firstly, great amount mineral fertilizers can scare off supporters of natural farming. Secondly, their frequent introduction requires time and a certain pedantry - each culture needs its own mineral complexes, and everything must be calculated to the nearest gram. Thirdly, such an intensive use of fertilizers leads to an increase in the cost of the final product, and not all summer residents can afford it. And finally, the formation narrow ridges with wide aisles, it simply contradicts our mentality, when every centimeter of land should be occupied by a useful crop, and not just relax.

Beds of Lyadov

The beds of Lyadov (as the author himself admits) were the result of the processing of Mittlider's ideas. True, in the process they have changed so much that the resemblance to the "progenitor" is not striking. They are a great option for those who have damp area, regularly flooded in spring, or an area with close groundwater.

How to make beds according to Lyadov

The width of the beds remains the same as in the previous case, but the paths between the beds narrow considerably and now reach only half a meter in width. The ridges themselves rise by 15-25 cm and are enclosed in high boxes. Of course, it is impossible to collect the required amount of soil from the passages, so plant residues, sawdust, straw, foliage are sent to the boxes. All this is watered with EM preparations (ready-made or home-made) and covered with a layer of earth from the aisles. In autumn, after harvesting, green manure is sown on the ridges and plant residues are laid again. The author of the technique proposes to sow the aisle with grass or fill it with sawdust.

Lyadov uses mainly organic fertilizers (herbal infusions, humus, manure and droppings). True, in case of a shortage of one or another mineral in plants, one should not refuse the point application of special means.

Pros and cons of beds according to Lyadov

The beds made according to the Lyadov method are perfect for damp areas, but in dry areas they will require continuous watering and pretty exhaust the owner by constantly drying out the roots of the plants. In addition, an excess of plant residues in the ridges can contribute to the development of numerous diseases, active reproduction and excellent wintering of harmful insects.

To understand whether such beds are right for you, it’s better to start with 1-2 small ones and check how the plants feel in them and whether it makes sense to put together boxes for all crops.

How to make beds according to Rosum

Rozum's crop beds are ridges, 30 cm wide, located every 60 cm. On one side of the ridge, a groove is dug deep by a shovel bayonet, filled with plant residues, and on the other, a green manure path is sown.

As green manure grows, it is necessary to mow, plow and sow new ones. The grooves, on the other hand, need to be supplemented with fresh plant residues as soon as they begin to sag. Caring for Rosum's beds comes down to removing weeds and watering, preferably basal.

Pros and cons of beds according to Rosum

The advantages of miracle beds include, perhaps, the availability of space for the disposal of plant and food waste, yes unusual external waters. But it’s worth dwelling on the minuses in more detail: the ridges require complex, painstaking care, there is little space left for the vegetables themselves, the ridges of the earth often crumble or sag.

Such a bed can become more of an experimental entertainment, but it is not recommended to transfer the entire plot to the Rosum system, unless, of course, you live on the site continuously and are ready to devote all days to gardening.

How to make beds according to Kurdyumov

There are two options for ridges according to Kurdyumov - boxes and trenches. The former are good in regions with a damp or cold climate, the latter in hot, arid areas. For bed-boxes, special plank boxes are built 50 cm wide and 30 to 60 cm high, and for trench beds, respectively, they dig trenches 30-40 cm deep and 60 cm wide.

If there are no high-quality boards at hand, you can build boxes from slab, slate, galvanized metal, etc.

Large pieces of wood and branches are laid at the bottom of the trench or box, then a layer of earth, a layer of organic waste, and on top it is poured with EM preparations to activate decomposition processes. Then several (2-3) layers of organic matter are alternated with soil, watered again with EM preparations and covered with a thick (5-8 cm) layer of mulch. As a mulching material, you can use husks, mowed dried grass, agrofibre, etc.

The passages between the ridges are mowed and covered with mulch, boards, cardboard or other materials. Can also be laid between ridges paving slabs or gravel, then the garden will look even neater.

Pros and cons of beds according to Kurdyumov

Kurdyumov's beds are an excellent option that has been working for several years without "refueling". The continuous decomposition of plant residues, going on in the lower layers of the bed, warms up the soil, protects plant roots from frost, saturates the soil with nutrients and attracts beneficial insects and soil bacteria. high sides protect plantings from weeds, and gardeners from working tilted. True, such beds dry out quickly, so you need to either place them near a water source, or organize drip irrigation.

What are intensive Rosum beds and how do they differ from ordinary beds

Rosum's beds are special beds, the functionality of which is aimed at helping nature naturally give the quantity and quality of the crop that it can and wants to give, without looking back at additional accompanying conditions. As additional conditions here we mean not only the state of the soil, which is far from ideal for the birth of a bountiful harvest, but also the “habitual” care that any garden bed usually surrounds - endless weeding, watering, top dressing.

But let us turn to nature, to that very nature where there is none of the above. What do we see? In nature, all this is achieved in a natural way - top dressing is taken from organic matter, instead of watering - rain, etc. So the design of the Rosum beds is based on natural processes and interactions, so it gives the maximum yield with a minimum of human effort, regardless of the condition of the soil. In addition, it is directly established that under comparative conditions, the yield of a crop grown in the beds of Rozum is 30-35% higher than when growing traditional way.

The "usefulness" of such ridges is obvious - it is not only high yield, but also cost reduction - as in physical plane, as well as in economics. The most difficult thing here is to lay the Rosum bed, since you need to create it according to certain rules. And then everything will fall into place by itself. Features (or rather, pluses) of this type of ridges:

1. The bed “lives” for about 6 years, while nothing needs to be done with it, only organic matter should be added annually. And only after these years the bed will have to be completely updated, because. it is during these years that the lowest layer of branches will already rot and cease to fulfill their functions.
2. Rosum's intensive beds are suitable for developing virgin lands or for long uncultivated lands, they are laid directly on the sod. They “work” the soil well and do not require extra effort. Great for rocky, poor soils. Such beds just enrich the earth with nutrients.
3. Do not require watering: never, none. The system for building these beds is aimed at "self-sufficiency" in terms of moisture. Thus, drought to plants on such a bed is not terrible. This is especially important in gardens where there is no water supply (rainfed agriculture).
4. Environmental friendliness. Rosum's beds are not fed with any fertilizers, except for natural organic matter. This allows you to grow not only an environmentally friendly product, but also avoid the cost of the same fertilizers.

How does the Rosum garden work?

How does such a bed work? And it works so efficiently that it increases crop yields on poor soils, saturates it with the necessary nutrients? By what means is this achieved?

The answer is pretty simple. Everything is achieved through correct location and arranging the layers of the beds, which ultimately give a visible effect. Rosum's bed consists of several global layers - these are tree branches and organic matter in large quantities.

Large thick branches at the bottom of the beds contribute to microcirculation of air. That is, the air through the organics superimposed on top freely passes to the end of the moat through the branches. As you know, the temperature of the earth at a depth is lower than at the surface, and due to free circulation, moisture will condense there, which will provide the water needs of not only plants, but also the soil as a whole. By the way, in arid regions, you can still throw a hydrogel into the moat. The pumpkins will definitely go crazy for this.

As for nutrients, this is the concern of the organic layer. It not only provides fertilizer, but also releases carbon dioxide, which is a powerful nutrient for crops.

Steps on how to make a rose bed

In fact, the principle of building a Rosum bed is quite simple. It is based on such already familiar things as organic matter, humus, but not only. To obtain the desired effect, it is necessary to create a special air circulation in the ridge.

Construction consists of several stages:

And now our Rosum bed is ready - such a warm blanket will create the necessary atmosphere for the "development" of the land, the production of fertilizers and nutrients for the soil, and, of course, for the plants that we will plant along the edges of the Rosum beds.

And only now, after arranging the main garden, it was the turn of planting crops. Landing takes place on both sides of the ridge - on the right and on the left, along its entire length. Thus, one bed of Rosum feeds two beds with plants at once. We plant the plants on the ramparts, which were obtained after digging the ditch.

In principle, any crops can be planted near the Rosum garden, but judging by the feedback from practitioners, it is better to plant vegetables that require hilling in the first year - this will help deepen the groove, which will have a beneficial effect on further plantings. In the second year, it is best to plant zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage, cucumbers / tomatoes. If the organic layer has not been updated by you this year, then the garden bed will serve perfectly for those who are not very demanding. nutrients crops - these can be, for example, peas or any greens.

Well, of course, the beds can be adapted for planting any crops. This is exactly what V. Rozum is doing in the Rosichi ecovillage - together they create a permacultural ecogarden:

Further care of the beds is normal (in terms of organic farming), these are compacted mixed landings, greening, replenishment of organics. Most good time bookmarks - autumn, since the ridges will settle over the winter, and the organic matter will “grab” and begin to ferment. Here is another visual material of how the Rosum garden is arranged, a video from the charming Valeria Zashchitina:

In general, the use of warm Rosum ridges increases the overall fertility of the soil and improves its "technical" condition up to good level for two years. During the same time, there is also an increase in yield by about 30%. If you also already use Rosum's intensive beds, leave your feedback in the comments, they will be useful to visitors to our site.

Warm beds of Rozum Vladimir Nikitovich. About the author and idea

Rozum Vladimir Nikitovich is a developer of the technology of his own warm beds, a professional gardener for whom organic farming is not just empty words. Arrangement of reservoirs on own site, construction of greenhouses, competent cultivation of the land with the help of simple tools, the use of green manure and organic fertilizers, increasing the yield of fruit trees, shrubs, vegetables "of all ranks" - this is a small part of the works of V. N. Rozum.

BUT warm beds of Rozum V.N. became another development of their own skills and abilities. The idea was given to the master by abandoned gardens and unkempt lands, infertile soils. The result is a high yield, complete naturalness of products, minimal labor costs.

Warm beds of Rosum. 4 reasons to increase the fertility of your land

Today, the warm beds of Rozum V.N. in demand by those who practice organic farming. Because it:

• The possibility of using barren lands, areas where only weeds have grown for many years. Special technology allows you to renew all the natural forces of the soil in two seasons. At the same time, the cultivation of crops is possible in school "gardens" and in other public places.
• High yield. Regardless of the variety of tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers or berry culture the yield increases by 30-55%.
• Minimum labor costs. All you need is to create a garden bed. Once and, practically, forever. After that, just enjoy the harvest or abundant flowering favorite colors.
• Creation in any season. Of course, the garden bed will show excellent results in the spring and summer months, but you can create it on the eve of winter frosts: the "forces" of the earth will be restored in a natural way during the winter.

Fundamentals of organic farming in warm beds by V. N. Rozum

What else is attractive for the gardener's warm beds of Rozum? The fact that each of them is a storehouse of knowledge and wisdom of organic farming. Basic principles of creation warm beds(according to Rozum):

• Flat-cut minimum tillage (using a Fokin flat-cutter or a hoe).
• Mulching and composting.
• Growing plants in conditions of insufficient sunlight.
• Edge effect.
• Thickening of landings along Ovsinsky.
• An important factor for achieving the maximum effect from the beds according to natural technology is the use of mycorrhiza.
• Protection of plants from diseases and pests.
• Mixed landings.
• principles of allelopathy.
• EM technology.

Do-it-yourself warm beds: step-by-step instructions for making

The warm beds of Rozum V.N. on your site are not only an effective result for growing crops, but also a harmonious aesthetic component. Create warm beds with your own hands, step by step manufacturing attached!

The general arrangement of the Rosum warm bed has the following structure:

• Center - organic components (50-60 cm).
• On both sides of the center, fodder beds are created (on which the necessary crops will be grown, width - 30-35 cm).
• On the sides of the feed beds - lawn paths (60 cm).

The result is the following (when repeating the beds): lawn path - fodder bed - center with organic components (organic "path") - fodder bed - lawn path, etc.

Step 2: Creation of a wedge-shaped recess (groove) (depth - 25 cm) in the center of the bed. To do this, you can use a hoe or Fokin's flat cutter. We place organic components in the groove: branches cut from fruit trees, grass, straw, last year's leaves. We tamp a little.

Step 3: Use of EM technology. We pour the organic matter laid into the groove of the bed with an EM-A solution in accordance with the instructions for the reproduction of beneficial microorganisms and their colonization of the substrate.

From school curriculum: Organic substances will become "food" for microorganisms with the help of EM-A. They will release carbon dioxide, which will feed the garden crops grown in the fodder beds. The mulch will help retain moisture and adequate warmth.

To protect against the Colorado potato beetle, larvae of other insects, we use the working solution of the drug "Metarizin".

Step 5: We plant the desired crops on the fodder beds. This happens on either side of the organic center, on a slightly elevated surface. In the first year of creating beds, we plant them with those crops that require hilling. Such a structure of the fodder bed will allow the groove to deepen and become the most nutritious for the crops grown.

When planting, it is advisable to treat the plant with a mycorrhiza preparation. You can read more about it here.

Step 6: We sow lawn paths. Oats, wheat, clover, alfalfa or another crop will go to mulch for both the central part of the garden and for plants. During the season we mow as we grow. In a particularly dry period, water moderately with the addition of EMs.

Step 7: In late autumn, having collected the last crop from the fodder beds, we cut the plants with a flat cutter or oblique and put them in an organic groove. Sprinkle a little earth. We sow green manure. Watering EM-A. The bed is ready for wintering.

Step 8: In the spring, as soon as the snow melted, we sow the organic groove with green manure. Without preparing the soil, we start planting plants on the fodder beds and at the same time we sow the lawn path.

First results

Our soils are heavy, clayey, calcareous. Summer is hot, dry, dry winds are constantly blowing. The quality of local water does not stand up to criticism, and its supply in summer is often limited both in time and in quantity. But unlimited watering from own wells and wells often leads to final salinization and soil death. Under such conditions, the opportunity to get by with minimal watering and provide the roots of developing plants with constant nutrition from organic ditches looked very tempting. The following winter, we discussed this topic a lot at our seminars, gave links to Bublik's webinars and explained the essence of the method “on the fingers” to all interested visitors.

The season has passed, now we bring to your attention the first results of the use of Rosum beds on different areas near Taganrog.

Trofim Korneev lives in Beglits, a village 50 km from the city. This is his first independent gardening experience. He could devote minimal time to his beds due to his great employment. Nevertheless, the result for the beginning is very good.

Olga Kotova recently moved with her family to our region from middle lane. These are also their first steps in unusual conditions.

4 beds, 8 ridges were formed. This is what they looked like at the end of June.

Conclusions after the season of using Rosum beds

Rosum's beds are ideal for root crops: turnips, beets (beetroots - especially! Directly "crowds"), pushes sideways, tops are fat, thick), carrots, onions. The Egyptian flat beets looked especially funny, because. it was difficult for her to push because of her shape, I thinned her out as I ate to give room to grow on the sides. The carrots were big and juicy. Although in our village they believe that carrots “fail”, and not everyone even plant them. And I generally planted carrots wherever something was released, in two runs, in spring and at the end of summer.

Pepper felt great.

Fruited abundantly until frost, until it froze. Next to the pepper, carrots grew on the same ridge.

Eggplants failed, but the turnip is “to blame” here. I planted it late, and by the time the eggplants were planted, there were turnip "jungles" with thick tops on the ridge. They bore fruit, of course, but they cannot be compared with peppers.

There was also physalis on the beds, and the difference with the physalis growing on an ordinary bed was significant. In the garden, it spread along the ground, there was not enough moisture, and I rarely had time to water it, but it grew on Rosum tall bushes. But I won’t plant it on Rozum anymore - it’s inconvenient, the bushes hang down on the aisle. There were also squash, they also overgrown with mugs and interfered, I will plant them in other places.

Still quite late, already almost in the middle of June, I planted tomato seedlings in place of the removed onions and beets on Rozum. There was not much difference between the tomatoes on Rozum and on the usual bed, but those extreme ridges where the tomatoes were, were not watered at all, and the bed was watered at least 2-3 times a week. So the savings in labor costs are obvious. For me, this is fundamentally important. And it was also convenient that by July, when they “lay down” right on the pit, I did not tie them up. It was convenient to pick clean tomatoes directly from the grass.

Rosum was not watered all summer, except for the rightmost bed (2 ridges), because. there was pepper and my husband was worried about him in the very heat. I watered like this: I put the hose between the ridges and left it for a while. Although I put my hand into the organics in the heat, it was humid there.

This year I will reduce the height of the ridges for peppers and eggplants, I think it’s possible to be almost level with the ground ... In our arid climate, it seems to me that the standard 10 cm in height is a bit too much. It was good for the root crops, but it was noticeable from the eggplants that it needed to be lower, and it wouldn’t hurt the peppers, I think.

Rosum's beds - personal experience

And finally my personal experience work with Rosum beds.

There was a gentle slope on our site, 6 m wide and 8 m long, with a total area of ​​fifty square meters. All in ruts and potholes, and there is almost no land there, as the former owners stored coal there for many years and poured slag and other household garbage. With our still undeveloped expanses, one could give up on it and postpone its improvement until better times. But ... this space is painfully friendly to the sun and is reliably protected from the winds from the north and east by a solid fence!

Yes, it is close to home. So I decided to cultivate this area with the help of Rosum beds. Moreover, she refused the tracks, replacing them with the same organic stripes. As a result, there were six wedge-shaped ditches 80 cm wide in the upper part, filled in accordance with all the rules.

As it filled, she spilled the “stuffing” with EM infusion and covered it with dry hay. Productive strips of land on both sides bordered on organic matter, so I made them wider than the recommended ones - 50 cm and did not raise their level at all - it is hot and windy here. The seventh, lowest bed, completed retaining wall from limestone.

She laid the beds at the end of May. According to our weather - very late, but there was no time at all before - the peak of the spring season in the Center.

On the beds grew: beets, dill, potatoes, peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, basil. A whole row with adjacent strips (2.1 m) was allocated personally for squash and zucchini, taking into account their scope. All the season, once a week, all plants received foliar feeding with our traditional bio-cocktail (Healthy Garden + Ecoberin + EM1).

Due to the violent growth, it soon became impossible to take normal photographs, and then just move between the beds, and, consequently, put new portions of organic material into the aisles. As a result, the walls of the ditches in the upper part were noticeably exposed, that is, just the root-inhabited layer of my beds. Nonetheless, most of cultures grew and regularly bore fruit until the very frosts in the second decade of October, did not get sick, did not suffer from the invasion of pests.

My own conclusions in my particular case are:

• Rosum's beds have proven themselves well in my area,
• I should fill the ditches more densely at the beginning of the season and use more coarse organic matter (branches up to 2 cm in diameter) in the middle part of the moat (already harvesting),
• zucchini, cabbage and other "large-sized" should be planted exclusively along the border of the plot with the beds. In my case, they lacked a strip more than two meters wide (80 + 50 + 80 cm).

TO SUMMARIZE THE GENERAL RESULTS:

1. Rosum's beds are indispensable where there is no way to pay much attention to plantings. The time and labor spent on their construction pay off many times over in the process of their use.
2. The beds really uninterruptedly provide moisture to all crops. Usually belatedly planted root crops (end of May - June) do not grow with us at all. Immediately, beets, carrots, and parsnips felt great all season.
3. Due to the dense standing of plants and their powerful development, the root-inhabited soil layer is reliably protected from our harsh sun, does not overheat and does not dry out.
4. On the beds of Rosum, the usual phenomena caused by overheating are not observed: shedding of color on peppers, tomatoes and eggplants, top rot, increased calcium deposition in fruits, which makes them tasteless and inedible.

Next season I want to partially plant on the beds fruit bushes- raspberries, currants, and garden strawberries. Very interesting: what will come of it?