Instructions for the installation of metal tiles. Step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles using a special technology from a to z Installation of metal tiles step by step 3 sheets long

Metal tiles are becoming more and more popular every day. It is an excellent roofing material with an optimal balance of performance and cost. The metal tile is suitable for finishing roofs of almost any complexity. At the same time, you can do it yourself with the tasks of assembling the material.

The metal tile is produced in the form of galvanized sheet material made on the basis of steel. The composition of the sheet includes several layers that perform important protective or decorative functions.

1. Zinc layer. It is the basis for the application of the following layers. Additionally, it prevents the development of corrosion.
2. Passivating layer. Prevents build-up of static electricity.
3. Priming layer. Provides the highest quality adhesion of the previous and next layers of the metal sheet.
4. Polymer layer. Protects the material from adverse external influences and gives it the required appearance. The coating can be matte and glossy. Many color variations are available, which allows you to choose a roofing material that fully meets the needs of the owner.

Metal tile has many advantages over other popular roofing materials, namely:

• light weight. There are many excellent roofing materials available on the market today, but the use of many of them is limited precisely because of their high weight. Modern houses are increasingly being built from "light" building materials and they absolutely do not need additional load. The metal tile weighs a little, so it can be safely used even for roofing the roofs of houses built on weak foundations;
• many color variations. It is hardly possible to find another roofing material presented in such a variety of colors as metal tiles;

  

• good technical characteristics. The metal tile is resistant to atmospheric and other adverse influences. Installation of sheets can be performed at any time of the year;

  

• relatively affordable cost. Metal tiles noticeably gain in price over other coatings with similar parameters. Natural shingles are much more expensive, although their properties practically do not differ from those of modern high-quality steel sheets.

The metal tile looks great on the roofs of almost any structure. It is best suited for large and solid houses and cottages, however, if you wish, you can develop an excellent roof project even for a small country house.

Video - Do-it-yourself metal tile installation instructions

Before you start arranging the lathing and fixing the sheets of metal tiles directly, you must definitely think about reliable and high-quality waterproofing. Thanks to the moisture-insulating material, the possibility of condensation on the inner surfaces of the elements of the roofing system will be excluded, which will contribute to a significant increase in their service life.

The most popular waterproofing option is plastic sheeting. This material, affordable at its cost, flawlessly copes with all the tasks assigned to it.

The waterproofing should be laid on the rafters under the counterbeam. Individual pieces of film are stacked with an overlap of about 15-17 cm. The sag of the film between the rafters can be no more than 1.5-2 cm. Use galvanized nails or a construction stapler with metal staples to fix the film. Glue the waterproofing joints with adhesive tape. It is desirable that it be metallized.

The technology of roofing from metal tiles requires the mandatory installation of insulation. It is most convenient to use mineral wool slabs. The material is placed between the rafter legs. For fixing the slabs, the already familiar construction stapler is perfect.

Sheathing device

The shingles will be laid on a supporting structure known as the sheathing. The frame of the system is assembled from wooden boards about 100 mm wide and 25-30 mm thick. All wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic. Otherwise, the wood will rot in a fairly short time.

The lathing is attached in the interval between the installation of the waterproofing and the installation of the insulation. The task comes down to attaching wooden planks or bars to the rafters. Start to fasten from the ridge of the roof structure, gradually moving vertically down to the cornice. Fix the elements of the crate in a horizontal position. Use nails of the correct length. As a rule, boards are mounted with a solid sheet.

Laying of roofing material

Laying metal tiles should start from the bottom corner of the roof slope. It is best to start from the lower left corner. In this case, each next sheet will overlap the previous one. If you start the installation of the cover from the right corner, the next sheet of metal tile will have to be placed under the already laid material. It is undesirable to do this, because with such an installation, there is a high probability of damage to the roofing.

The laying of metal tiles should be carried out parallel to the cornice. Do not forget to leave an overhang of about 4 cm behind the eaves. There is a technology according to which sheets of metal tiles can be stacked vertically. But in the absence of proper experience in carrying out roofing work, it is better to refuse this method, opting for a more traditional and simple horizontal installation.

When laying, you will need to rotate the corners slightly clockwise. This is done so that the right corners of the elements laid in the same row are located along a single straight line.

To fix adjacent sheets, 1 self-tapping screw is used. This pre-attachment is placed at the top of the sheet. After that, you need to align the elements of the system and perform their final fixation.

Place the longest sheets of metal tiles in the bottom row. With this option, installation is greatly facilitated, and the finished coating takes on a more solid and attractive appearance.

About 7-8 self-tapping screws are needed for 1 m2 of coating. It is necessary to fasten the sheets in transverse waves, screwing in self-tapping screws in increments of 35 cm. You can also install self-tapping screws in longitudinal waves. With this method, it is necessary to fasten it through the wave, placing self-tapping screws in the upper ridges.

An electric screwdriver is best suited for tightening self-tapping screws. An electric drill will also work. The main thing is that it has the function of slow and smooth rotation of the chuck. To achieve greater accuracy of fastening, it is recommended to screw the hole in advance.

Cover sheets must be fixed in the lower crest of the wave, where the material is pressed against the crate. This will create the most reliable fastening and not deform the material.

The lower sheets of metal tiles must be attached to the first purlin in each wave, without gaps. This section will be subject to the most powerful wind loads, so the fastening should be as reliable as possible so that the sheets are not ripped off at the first strong gust of wind.

Attach to other purlins at a minimum distance from the bottom to the step. This is where the sheet material has the highest rigidity. In addition, with this arrangement, the screws will be almost invisible.

In places of overlap, sheets of metal tiles must be fixed through a wave. If you wish, you can capture each wave. This will ensure the highest quality fit of the top sheet elements.

For fastening the roofing material, galvanized self-tapping screws made of alloy steel are best suited. Stainless self-tapping screws with a seal have also proven themselves perfectly. Such fasteners can have a wide variety of colors, which will allow you to create the optimal color combination of screws and the main coating.

Self-tapping screws are screwed strictly perpendicular to the lathing elements. Deviations are not allowed. Sheets of metal tiles should be as tightly attracted to the crate as possible. Any distortion of the self-tapping screws can lead to the appearance of through holes in the sheets. If the roof will be exposed to prolonged exposure to an acidic or alkaline environment, self-tapping screws with plastic caps should be used to fix the metal tile.

Check the self-tapping screws 3-4 months after the completion of the roofing work. Under the influence of wind loads, the fasteners are usually weakened. Tighten loose screws.

Thus, there is nothing difficult in self-assembly of metal tiles. Follow the instructions, adhere to the recommendations received and everything will work out.

Happy work!

Video - Do-it-yourself metal tile installation instructions

ATTENTION! Before starting work, make sure that the waterproofing is installed in accordance with the rules for waterproofing.

Pay special attention to the eaves overhang of the roof.

The figures show examples of organizing condensate drainage from the waterproofing film on the eaves.

The first figure shows a method for removing the waterproofing film onto a special condensate drip. In this case, all moisture will be guaranteed to be removed beyond the dimensions of the cornice "box".

The second figure shows the way of withdrawing waterproofing into the eaves "box". In this case, condensation may drip from the cracks in the filing of the eaves. This case is inapplicable with increased requirements for the appearance of the cornice filing or with a "stucco cornice".

There is no correct way to drain into the gutter.

With a rafter pitch of 600–900 mm, use a 100x25 mm edged board for the lathing. Start with the installation of the cornice board, the line of the cornice should be straight (check with the "lace") and strictly horizontal.

ATTENTION! If you made a mistake with the installation of the cornice board, most likely, you will need to redo the ENTIRE step crate.

Use a board thickened by 10-15 mm as a cornice board. You can also use a standard board, increasing its thickness with a compensating rail, no more than the height of a metal tile step. For most of the profiles of metal tiles produced by Grand Line®, a 50x20 rail is suitable. Mount the first board of the stepping lathing with a step of 250 mm from the eaves board, the rest - with a step of 350 mm, checking the step from the first board of the stepping lathing every 5 rows.

Mount the long hooks of the gutter system on the eaves, ensuring the slopes are in accordance with the project. To securely attach the legs of long hooks, the cornice board must have a width of at least 200 mm (diagram 1). The compensating rail is mounted between the hooks. On the thickened cornice board, before installing the hooks, grooves are cut out for the hook leg. In the case when the metal tile has already been mounted, short hooks are used, which are mounted on the frontal board. To prevent the avalanche snow from the roof from ripping off the gutter, mount the first hook on the frontal board so that the outer edge of the hook is 20 mm below the imaginary line of the eaves board extension (Diagram 2).

ATTENTION! For the correct installation of the short hooks of the Grand Line 125/90 and 150/100 gutter systems, the frontal board must be cut vertically.

ATTENTION! If the front board is finished with a plastic chamfer, cutouts for the hooks must be made in the chamfer before installing the hooks.

Mount the curtain rail on the curtain board over the hooks of the drainage system with an overlap of at least 20 mm, connecting them together along the flanging lines or simply overlapping.

When installing metal tiles, you can move both from left to right and from right to left. When mounting from left to right, the next sheet must be slipped under the previously fixed on the slope. When installing from right to left, the next sheet must be superimposed on the previously fixed on the slope. In both cases, to ensure high-quality joining along the waves, first fasten the sheets together with self-tapping screws "roughly" through one or two rows to ensure optimal joining of the sheets to each other, then twist the rest and only after that fix the sheet to be mounted on the slope.

When joining the sheets of metal tiles in rows on the slope, there will be places of joining between the "four corners" of the sheets of metal tiles.

The most correct way of arranging sheets is one in which two "sheet corners" with a "covering edge" will be located above two "sheet corners" with capillary grooves. To do this, first join a couple of sheets in rows, and then attach a couple of the following sheets to them on the side.

Another installation method is also allowed: first mount the bottom sheets docked along the waves, and then mount the top sheets. In this case, there will be a slight thickening of the joining points of the "four corners".

The reason for this thickening is clear from the figure. To eliminate such a thickening, it is necessary to slightly "straighten" the capillary groove below the stamping line on one of the lower sheets or cut off a small fragment of the corner, which slightly complicates the installation.

When developing the profile of the metal tile, it was not provided for the possibility of installing sheets of metal tile "in disarray" with the separation of joints relative to each other along the waves and joints in rows. A large number of joints, indicated in the figure with the number 2, can lead to a "runaway" shift of the punching lines relative to each other and a violation of the "squareness" of the slope recruited from the sheets of metal tile. In isolated cases, for example, when approaching the edge of the slope or when avoiding obstacles, such a joint of sheets, indicated in the figures by the number 1, is acceptable.

The pictures at the bottom of the page show a method for removing water from the skylight apron onto the slope. In the picture on the left, you can see that water from the apron of the dormer window flows down onto a specially cut bottom sheet. The right figure shows the next step: the dormer window apron is covered with a side sheet specially cut in width, the lower part of which covers the dormer window apron and reaches the standard joint of the metal tile sheets along the rows. The bottom and side sheets are cut from one sheet of metal tile, and due to the "overlapping" of parts of the sheet on top of each other at the point where the apron comes out, the total length has decreased by one module. If, when “laying out” the sheets of metal, the sheet from which the bottom and side sheets were cut was not “lengthened” by one module, it can be extended with a single-module sheet.

A typical mistake is the "embedding" of the skylight apron into the side cut on the sheet of metal, in which a hole will remain on the edge of the cut on the surface of the slope. Small, but a hole.

ATTENTION! If it is necessary to "build in" a roof window, a pipe (located significantly below the ridge) or a dormer window into the ramp, prepare two single-module sheets of metal for each element built into the roof.

With any methods of joining metal tiles to each other, these sheets will be collected in a rectangle, which will have equal sides, upper and lower edges, as well as diagonals. The exact correspondence of these dimensions to each other is determined mainly by the quality of the profiling. It is impossible to "stretch" in width, "lengthen", turn a "rectangle" assembled from sheets of metal tile into a "trapezoid" or "rhombus". Attempts to "stretch" or "squeeze" the stacking of sheets due to the joint will inevitably lead to a visual "protrusion" of the joint lines.

The correct positioning of the first sheet on the slope determines how accurately the "rectangle", assembled from metal sheets, will lie on the slope. You will not be able to rotate, move, stretch the "rectangle". By assembling the first sheet, you define the cornice line, both gable lines and the ridge line. The main line is the cornice line. It is clearly visible and not covered by any slats!

Starting the installation of metal tiles, "aim" at the cornice line. When installing the first 3-4 sheets of the bottom row, carefully fasten the sheets together and fasten them to the lathing to a minimum.

If, during the check, a deviation from the eaves line is found, correct the position of the sheets, fix them and continue installing the ramp.

Carry out the final fastening of the metal tile sheets in accordance with the previously given Rules.

Before installing the end strips, fit the support boards along the lines of the gables, as shown in the figure. Fix the end plate to the ramp at the points of contact with the tops of the waves in every second wave and from the end to the support board in accordance with the previously made markings. Connect the end strips to each other along the flanging lines or overlap with an overlap of at least 2 cm.

If the width of the slope was not "adjusted" to the size of the wave of the metal tile, the sheet may approach one of the gables with the lower part of the wave. In this case, the standard pediment bar will not cover the ridge. Correct, if possible, the size of the gable overhang or fit an additional safety roof strip made especially for this location. If necessary, fit a universal seal between the safety strip and the roofing sheet.

ATTENTION! Make sure that all planned under-roof ventilation arrangements have been implemented.

To prevent snow from blowing under the ridge, mount a ridge / ridge aero element between the metal tile and the ridge bar.

For this purpose, a universal or profile seal can be used, which is installed between the metal tile and the ridge strip. In this case, to ensure under-roof ventilation, it is recommended to install point ridge or pitched KTV valves.

The semicircular ridge is recommended for roof slope angles of no more than 35 °. Adjustment of the semicircular ridge for mounting at steeper corners is not available. To decorate the beginning and end of the ridge, use a flat plug, for the end of the ridge use a conical one. Secure the plugs with self-tapping screws or rivets before installing the ridge strip.

At the junction of the two ridges and the ridge, at the top of the hip, use the Y-piece for the half-round ridge. It can be used for roofs with angles α in the range 60-90 °, β - 135-150 °. Cover the joint of the ridge strips with a waterproofing film and self-adhesive tape. Fit the T-piece over the skates and secure with self-tapping screws.

Start installation from one of the ends, mount the ridge over the end strips, let the ridge edge outward by 2–3 cm. Dock the flat ridge parts with each other overlapping with an overlap of at least 10 cm or using tin technology. Dock the parts of the semicircular ridge with each other along the stamping lines.

For a flat ridge, adjust the angle to the angle of the roof slope by bending or unbending it along the lines shown in the figures. In the “free” state, the skate fixing shelves must correspond to the slope angles of the slopes.

At angles of inclination of the roof more than 45 degrees, the location of the ridge board and the method of fastening the ridge significantly depend on the specific value of the angle of inclination of the roof. At the stage of installing the battens, model the ridge knot for your case, combining the angle of the roof and the model of the ridge strip. This is the only reliable way to get a good result or find an error in a timely manner when ordering metal tiles.

In most cases, you will need to mount an additional sub-ridge board above the top board of the stepping sheathing, while providing a gap between the sub-ridge boards of adjacent slopes of at least 80 mm to ensure under-roof ventilation. The thickness of this board should be 10-15 mm more than the thickness of the boards of the stepped sheathing. (see Attachment Rule # 4).

Rules for installing metal tiles on trapezoidal and triangular slopes

ATTENTION! Make sure that the waterproofing is working and that it is possible to implement the planned measures to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space.

In addition to the counter-lattice bars along the rafters, attach the same bars along the ridges in the plane of the slopes on both sides of the ridges.

Mount the eaves and stepped sheathing boards. Form the curtain rod assembly, including the installation of the gutter hooks, condensate drip and curtain rail.

Prepare for installation sheets of metal, intended for each slope in accordance with the "layout" of the sheets. As with the installation of a rectangular slope, first of all, it is necessary to align the lower sheets along the line of the cornice (the figure shows an example of starting the installation from the left edge).

Cut the sheets of metal tiles along the oblique lines along the ridges so that the distance between the cut sheets on adjacent slopes is 60–80 mm. Carry out the installation from the bottom up, placing the joints in rows in a common line in accordance with the layout.

Mount on the ridges of the ridge strips from the bottom up. Adjust the ridge strips to the corner formed by the ramps. Cut the lower part of the straight ridge in accordance with the angles specified by the ridge line. At the bottom of the semicircular ridge, fit a plastic or steel ridge plug, having previously adjusted it in place.

Make sure that the axis of the ridge strip is strictly aligned with the axis of the ridge. The axis of the ridge is easy to determine for the case of the same angle of inclination of adjacent slopes. At different angles of inclination of adjacent slopes, the axis of the ridge is more difficult to determine. Be sure to determine the axis of the ridge and attach the ridge strips in strict accordance with the axis.

Only in this case you will be able to beautifully dock the ridges and ridge in the upper part. In most cases, the junction of two ridges and a ridge you will beautifully make using a plastic Y-tee. In cases where the Y-tee is not suitable for such a joint, use painted self-adhesive tapes, which are usually used for making joints when working with cement-sand or ceramic tiles. With good tinsmithing skills, you will make beautiful joints of ridges and ridge from a flat sheet using self-tapping screws, rivets and sealant.

Rules for arranging valleys

ATTENTION! Make sure that the waterproofing along the valley is installed correctly, there are gaps for water and small debris along the valley counter-lattice, there are no tears and mechanical damage to the waterproofing.

Mount in the valley along an additional board between the boards of the stepped sheathing. Prepare the required number of valley strips and mount them from bottom to top with an overlap of 200–300 mm. Cut the lower plank of the valley just below the line of the cornice and make a flange on it along the line of the cornice. Install a universal seal along the flanges of the valley slats and under the ridge.

Cut the sheets of metal tiles adjacent to the valley according to the marking. Sheets should not extend to the centerline of the valley 60–100 mm on each side. When fastening the cut sheets, it is allowed to screw the self-tapping screws into the "regular places" located 10-15 mm below the stamping line in the lower part of the wave, through a sheet of metal tile and through the valley strip no closer than 250 mm from the valley axis. In these places, the sheets of metal tiles touch the plane on which the valley strips lie. At the same time, the self-tapping screws that have passed through the sheet of metal tile and through the valley strip will firmly press the metal tile sheet to the valley strip at the points of attachment with self-tapping screws. When you move away from the "regular places" at the attachment points between the sheet of metal and the valley strip, a gap will remain, which can lead to leaks through the valley strip at the points of passage of the self-tapping screws through it.

If the project provides for the installation of a decorative lining of the valley, mount it, moving from the bottom up with the overlap of its parts on top of each other by at least 10 cm.

Fasten the upper valley strips to the upper points of the adjoining metal tile sheets with 5.5x19 self-tapping screws.

ATTENTION! If the house is located in a forest, dismantle the valleys from time to time and clean the water channel.

The device of the valley starting at the ramp and ending at the ramp

ATTENTION! Westmet's specialists recommend making sure that the waterproofing along the valley is installed correctly, there are gaps for water and small debris along the valley counter-lattice, there are no tears and mechanical damage to the waterproofing.

Mount in the valley along an additional board between the boards of the stepped sheathing. Bring a sheet of metal tile to the side wall of the dormer as follows:

• cut a sheet of metal tile adjacent to the side wall of the dormer along the length so that the line of your cut is at least 200 mm higher than the exit of the valley onto the slope (the rest of the sheet of metal can be used to continue installation with the addition of a single-module sheet to it in order to exit on a common line of joining sheets in rows);
• to line the sheet to the side and front walls of the dormer window, make cutouts to fit the dormer window and mount the sheet of metal tiles;

Install a universal seal on a sheet of metal tile along the walls of the dormer window.

Install an eaves strip on the eaves overhang of the dormer. Mount the pre-prepared valley planks in the valley. Trim the bottom of the valley plank along the cornice and along the slope exit line. If necessary, shape the edge of the valley overlooking the slope in order to ensure a tight overlap of the valley strip on the sheet of metal. It is allowed to slightly align the bottom sheet of the metal tile with a mallet.

When extending the valley, provide an overlap of 200–300 mm, depending on the angle of inclination of the slopes. In the upper part, join the sheets of the left and right valleys using tin techniques or on self-tapping screws using sealant. The protection of the ridge line of the dormer from the ingress of water from the upper slope depends on the thoroughness of the preparatory work in this place. Fit a universal seal along the flanges of the valley.

Get ready to install beveled sheet metal tiles on a large slope.

If you use the part remaining from the side sheet of the metal tile, bring the lower cut on it to the form of a regular one and add a single-module sheet to it in order to bring the level of the top of the sheet to the common line of joining along the rows on the slope.

Prepare for installation the first sheet of the main slope above the valley. Its lower part must be below the line of the valley exit onto the slope. Place the prepared sheet on a sheet of metal tile previously mounted below the valley, while the overlap of the sheets will be at least 200 mm, and the valley sheet will be sandwiched between the mounted and previously mounted sheets. Mount all sheets adjacent to the valley.

Make sure that the gaps between the cut sheets and the centerline of the valley are 60–100 mm.

When fastening the cut sheets, it is allowed to screw the self-tapping screws into the "regular places" located 10-15 mm below the stamping line in the lower part of the wave through the sheet of metal tile and through the valley strip no closer than 250 mm from the valley axis. In these places, the sheets of metal tiles touch the plane on which the valley strips lie. At the same time, the self-tapping screws that have passed through the sheet of metal tile and through the valley strip will firmly press the metal tile sheet to the valley strip at the points of attachment with self-tapping screws.

When you move away from the "regular places" at the attachment points between the sheet of metal and the valley strip, a gap will remain, which can lead to leaks through the valley strip at the points where the screws pass through it.

ATTENTION! It is not allowed to tighten the self-tapping screws at a distance of less than 250 mm from the axis of the valley.

If the project provides for the installation of a decorative lining of the valley, mount it, moving from bottom to top, overlapping each other by at least 10 cm.

ATTENTION! It is forbidden to mount the seal between the sheets of metal and the decorative overlay of the valley.

Fasten the decorative overlays of the valley to the upper points of the adjoining sheets of metal.

ATTENTION! Make sure that the self-tapping screws of the valley cover have not damaged the previously installed valley strips.

The overlay of the valley decorates the slanting cuts of the metal tile and reduces the likelihood of snow blowing between the sheets of the metal tile and the valley. The water collected from the slopes falls under the valley pad and flows along the fold line of the valley. Last year's leaves that fell on the roof also fall under the valley lining and, if there is a sufficient gap between the cut edges of the metal tile, they will be washed off with water along the valley slats.

Rules for bypassing pipes and other obstacles

When avoiding pipes and other obstacles on the roof, you have two tasks to solve:

• the first task is to “intercept” the water from the slope above the pipe, “disperse” it to the right and left, “draw” it along the pipe and “release” it onto the slope under the pipe;
• the second task is not to let the water flowing down the walls of the pipe into the house and to the roof.

To solve these problems around the pipe it is necessary:

• prepare and install a metal apron, part of which is located in the plane of the roof and fixed to it, and part of which rises along the pipe 150-200 mm above the roof cavity;
• on top of the apron, mount the abutment bar in the groove or overlay.

ATTENTION! Make sure the pipe is plastered to the height you want. After installing the apron, the part of the pipe under the apron will become inaccessible. Make sure that the waterproofing is installed on the lateral edges of the pipe, and that a drainage channel is built into the waterproofing on the slope above the rear edge of the pipe (no further than 0.8 m from the rear edge of the pipe).

Mount additional sheathing boards above the back edge of the pipe at a slope length of about 50 cm.Cut the left and right sheets of metal adjacent to the pipe along the length so that the lines of your cuts are above the stamping lines, and the distance from the top edge of the pipe to these stamping lines is not less than 150 mm. The remaining parts of the sheets of metal can be used to continue the installation with the addition of a single-module sheet to them in order to reach the common line of joining the sheets in rows.

Mark on the side edges of the pipe lines 150 mm above the plane of the top of the roofing, translate these lines to the front and back edges of the pipe, and you will find out the required lifting height of the lower and upper aprons.

Prepare the bottom and side (right and left) apron parts. Correctly made details:

• rise to the side edge of the pipe by 150 mm;
• go over the slope by at least 200 mm;
• the lateral parts of the right and left parts of the apron go beyond the nearest crest of the metal tile wave;
• the lower part of the side parts of the apron reach the bottom of the lower part of the apron;
• the upper part of the side parts of the apron extends above the rear edge of the pipe by 150-200 mm.

Connect the 3 parts of the apron to each other and fix the lower apron on the metal tile with self-tapping screws.

Align the sheets of metal with a mallet in those places where they will be covered by the upper part of the apron. Prepare the top part of the apron. Correctly made apron:

• goes to the bottom edge of the pipe up to the marking line;
• on the sides it covers the side parts of the apron;
• at the top of the slope ends with a flange up.

Connect the upper apron with the side ones using tin technology. If necessary, cover the joints of the apron parts with sealant. Fit the universal seal on the top of the apron.

The upper sheets of metal tiles should have a horizontal regular cut in the lower part, and in the upper part - reach the common joining line in rows on the slope or to the common ridge line.

If you use the parts remaining from the side sheets, bring the lower cuts on them to the type of regular lower cuts and add to them one-module sheet in order to bring the level of the top of the sheets to the common line of joining along the rows on the slope.

Place these sheets over the apron, while the top part of the apron will be clamped between the installed and previously installed sheets.

ATTENTION! It is a common mistake to fit the top of the apron into the cut of the roof tile, as shown in the picture below, since the cut is located on the water drain line.

To prevent the ingress of water from the side faces of the pipe under the apron, firmly fix the abutment bar along the perimeter of the pipe over the apron, seal the gap between the abutment bar and the side edges of the pipe with a sealant, placing it in a specially cut groove or in the outer flange of the bar.

Before installing this junction strip, mallet the top of the flanges to the side faces of the pipe. In some cases, the abutment bar can be covered with plaster afterwards.

To seal the joints, use special roofing sealants as shown in the figure.

In this case, it is easier to make an apron than in the previous one, because it is possible to bring the upper part of the apron under the ridge over the sheets of metal, instead of embedding this part into the slope between the sheets of metal. Sometimes this technique is also used to bypass pipes located 3-5 meters from the ridge, a flat sheet goes over the pipe right under the ridge. Reliable, but ugly, since the strip of flat non-profiled sheet above the pipe falls out of the overall picture of the slope.

This is the simplest case, and the width of the pipe does not matter.

Pay particular attention to joining the side aprons of different slopes together and sealing the abutment of the ridge to the pipe.

Bypassing a pipe or other obstacle located on the slope, the width of the obstacle exceeds 80 cm

This case is more complicated than the previous ones. You will need the skills you gained from walking around pipes less than 80 cm wide and the skills you gained from setting up slopes.

On top of the slope, make a "slope", guaranteed to take the water to the right and left of the pipe. "Razuklonka" consists of two additional slopes, covered with metal tiles, with valleys with access to the slope. If the pipe is not wide, for example 1.2 m, it makes no sense to cover the slopes of the "ramp" with metal tiles, a flat sheet is enough.

In the previous sections, only rectangular pipes were considered.

When bypassing the round pipe, the principles of embedding the apron into the roof remain the same as described above. To connect the apron parts to the pipe, professional tinsmithing skills are required. Modern insulated round stainless steel pipes, as a rule, are equipped with a special transition apron-cap.

Sometimes, due to a misunderstanding, the pipe falls into the valley, into the stream of water collected from two slopes.

A roofer with good tinsmith skills will find a way to reliably route water even past a pipe in a valley. For beginner roofers, it is better not to experiment and invite an experienced tinsmith, for example, a seam roofing specialist, to this area of ​​work, or to achieve the transfer of a pipe from the valley.

• Rules for handling metal tiles, cutting and fastening
• Metal tile installation rules
• Rules for the arrangement of junctions and additional elements

1. Metal tile installation rules

In many respects it is superior to other types of roofing, such as slate, galvanized sheet, bituminous tiles, etc. The laying of the material is usually trusted by specialists, but if you wish, you can do the installation of metal tiles with your own hands.

Advantages of the material

The strengths of metal tiles include:

The disadvantages include only increased noise during precipitation, but this can be solved by installing a layer of glass wool.

Roofing with metal tiles begins with calculations.

Stage 1. Making calculations

First, let's clarify one important point. Visually, the roof covered with this material is made up of rows and waves (the first pass across the slope). The distance between the rows is called a step. If a tile sheet has a pitch of 35 cm and six waves, then it is called a module. The modern building materials market offers sheets for 1, 3, 6 and 10 modules.

Important! If you wish, you can order tiles according to individual sizes, but it will cost much more. It should be remembered that the length of the sheet should not exceed 7 m and be less than 45 cm.

The calculations and layout take into account the fact that the joints and waves must form a solid coating along the entire length of the slope. Having decided on the number of modules, the amount of material is calculated from the roof area.

In addition to the metal tile itself, the kit also includes:

• steel strips 2 m long;
• steel sheets 200x125 cm, having the same color as the tiles.

Planks are usually intended for roofs with a 30ᵒ slope, although adjustments can be made to 11-70ᵒ if desired.

Important! The minimum slope at which the installation of the tiles is allowed is 11ᵒ.

Stage 2. Prepare everything you need

The following equipment is required for the installation of tiles:

• scissors for metal;
• ladder;
• electric drill;
• long rail;
• screwdriver;
• mounting tape;
• measuring device;
• hammer;
• marker;
• personal protective equipment (gloves, plastic glasses).

You will also need the following consumables:

• waterproofing;
• tile;
• roof strips;
• aero roller;
• strips for ends and ridge;
• decorative overlays;
• self-tapping screws, sealing washers and to them;
• boards 2.5x10 cm;
• guide board.

Stage 3. Foundation

As noted earlier, the metal tile weighs a little, so it does not need a reinforced base - you need a regular crate made of wooden slats. The step of the lathing should be calculated according to the size of the tiles, so as not to drive the screws into the void during installation.

Stage 4. Thermal insulation

Thermal insulation is necessary not only to prevent heat loss, but also to protect against rain noise. First, the rafters are covered with a vapor barrier material (for example, "Izospan" or "Yutafol"). Next, an insulating layer is laid (no more than 25 cm thick), covered with an antioxidant film and attached to the rafters with wooden bars.

Important! The material between the bars should sag a little (by about 2 cm) so that the condensate flows only into the drain.

Stage 5. Installation of tiles. Fundamental rules

1. can be done in one of two ways. If the stacking of sheets starts on the right, then each new one is superimposed on the previous one. If on the contrary, then the previous sheets are superimposed.
2. For the sake of correct installation, four sheets of tiles, overlapping with respect to each other, are first grabbed, aligned, and only then finally connected with one self-tapping screw.
3. Self-tapping screws must be of high quality, because the service life of the roofing largely depends on them. These must necessarily be galvanized screws with propylene rubber sealing heads that tightly fill the hole when screwed in.
4. A thickening appears at the junction of the four sheets. It must be removed, for which part of the corner is cut off or the capillary groove under the stamping line is straightened.

Stage 6. Individual elements

Step 1. The end strips are fixed with an overlap (about 2 cm). The size of the wave is adjusted to the width of the slope, otherwise the crest may fit onto the pediment.

Step 2. A roofing strip is added, then an additional sealant is placed between it and the sheet of material.

Step 3. When arranging pipes or windows that are below the ridge, sheets with one module are taken - two pieces for each structural element.

Step 4. With sloping slopes, an aero roller is installed between the material and the ridge strip, which will prevent the penetration of atmospheric precipitation under the ridge.

Step 5. The ridge is fixed on the strips located at the ends of the structure. This must be done in such a way that it protrudes 2-3 cm. In the case of a flat ridge, all elements are overlapped, and if it is semicircular, then only according to the profile lines.

It is also worth noting that the strips of the skates can be bent and unbent, if necessary, so that they repeat the angle of inclination of the roof.

Stage 7. Arrangement of the valley

An additional board is attached to each valley. In this case, installation starts from the bottom and is overlapped by 25-30 cm. Below the level of the eaves, the lower bar is cut off, and flanging is made along it. A seal is placed under each fringe and ridge.

There is a gap between the axis and the sheets (at least 8-10 cm). Screws are screwed into the cut sheets one and a half centimeters from the stamping line. At the same time, when fixing, the fasteners are made 25 cm from the axis of the valley. If everything was done correctly, then at the end of the work, the sheet in the place of fastening will come into contact with the board where the valley is located.

Important! If mistakes were made, then the fastening will be in other places and, as a result, gaps will form on the surface through which the roof will flow.

To cover the cut sheets, decorative overlays are used, during the installation of which you need to remember some important points:

Often, the beginning and end of the valleys are located on the roof slope. Take the installation of a dormer window, for example. Here, a separate board is placed under the valley. For the window itself, a cut is made in the sheet, and sealing material is laid along the walls. In this case, the eaves overhang is covered with a bar.

Then the planks of the valley, previously cut along the edges, are fixed. The protruding part should adhere very tightly to the tile sheet.

Prices for various types of tiles

Shingles

Video - Laying metal tiles

Slopes in the form of a trapezoid or triangle

If the roof slopes are trapezoidal or triangular, then additional beams must be installed.

Step 1. Bars are attached on both sides of the ridge along the roof fold line.

Step 2. The cornice board is installed and assembled.

Step 3. The cornice system is being built.

Step 4. Tiles are laid. This is done along the line of one of the edges or axis. The first sheet is aligned with the eaves strip.

Important! It is unacceptable that the distance between the cut corner sheets installed near the ridge is more than 10 cm.

Step 5. To install the ridge knots, follow these steps. The ridge strips are aligned to the corner of the ridge. If a straight ridge is used, then it is cut according to the corners, and if it is semicircular, then an additional plug (preferably plastic) will need to be installed.

Step 6. The ridge plank lays down strictly along the axis of the "ridge". It is quite simple to do this if the angles of the slopes are the same, and if they are different, then, accordingly, it is difficult. To control the adhesion of the slopes, a mounting tape of a bright color is used.

Material care features

As already mentioned, the metal tile is covered with a polymer layer that protects against corrosion. But the constant exposure to ultraviolet radiation, precipitation and dust sooner or later becomes the cause of the destruction of the protective layer. This is why metal roofs should be cleaned regularly.

1. Dirt and dry leaves are washed off with a damp, fluffy brush.
2. To remove more difficult stains, you can use special cleaning agents for polymer surfaces.
3. Do not use aggressive chemicals - they can destroy the protective layer.
4. The drains are cleaned with a water jet under pressure. The jet must be directed from the ridge to the cornices.
5. To remove snow from the roof, you can use only those tools that, in principle, are unable to damage the coating.

If all these rules are observed, it will last about 50 years.

Metal roofing is a material that is used for roofing along with such popular materials as slate, shingles and galvanized sheet metal. Its superior technical characteristics make it a great choice for any home. And although they usually prefer to invite professionals to carry out this kind, we will consider how to independently install metal tiles: step-by-step instructions and some recommendations from specialists.

A tile roof, especially if it is made of metal, is one of the best options for decorating a home. Experts and users themselves note many positive aspects of using this material, including:

• light weight (4-6 kg / m²), which provides very little load on the roof;

Differs in democratic price, long service life and expressive appearance

• simple installation procedure and ease of repair work;
• a wide range of colors;
• the material is environmentally friendly and does not contain any harmful components;
• the coating is equipped with stiffening ribs, which makes it very durable. Provided that all installation recommendations are followed, the surface is capable of withstanding a load of 200 kg / m², even if sheets with a thickness of 0.5 mm were used;
• the material is extremely temperature resistant. He is not afraid of any drops, and the rate of thermal expansion is minimal.

There is practically no need to talk about the shortcomings of metal tiles, with the exception, perhaps, of an increased noise level on days when it rains. But it is quite possible to cope with this if you first lay a layer of glass wool.

Criteria for choosing a material for a metal roof: photo examples

Before you start considering the installation process of this roofing material, you need to decide how exactly the material should be used.

Viewing photos of roofs, the metal tiles on which look attractive, is far from the best method in this case, since in the selection process you need to pay attention to the list of additional elements, as well as the markings provided by the manufacturer. Consider what the buyer needs to know.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence in the price list of such additional elements as:

• various types of skates: simple, curly and with aerators;
• special pass-through units for the installation of pipes, hatches, ventilation, antennas, as well as lighting windows;
• elements designed to ensure the safety of surface maintenance - walking bridges, ladders, snow holders;
• indoor and outdoor valleys;
• other necessary elements are wall profiles, pediments, eaves strips of metal tiles, the installation of which is an obligatory part of the roof arrangement.

Important! The presence of all the listed elements among the seller's offers is an indicator of the level of the company that produces metal tiles, which may also indicate the quality of the products themselves.

In addition, it is worth paying attention to the study of the marking, which must be present on every certified material. Usually, in production, all the characteristics of the material itself are indicated, as well as the level of quality of the anti-corrosion coating that is applied over the sheet.

So, here's what information you can glean by reading the information provided on the back of a sheet of metal tile:

• the presence of polymers;
• how much zinc is there per 1 m² of sheet;
• the date of manufacture and the period of the warranty period for the use of the material;
• manufacturer's name;
• sheet thickness.

In the process of visual inspection, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective layer, both on the front and on the seamy side of the sheet, as well as the presence of all mandatory markings.

Important! If we are talking about material purchased from a large manufacturer, then the marking will also contain information on the grade of the steel used.

Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for independent work

Given the fact that the price of installing metal tiles has never been low, many people prefer to try to do everything they need on their own. Although initially it is worth familiarizing yourself with how much professional installation of metal tiles costs. The price of work per m2 starts from 250 rubles and may increase depending on the complexity.

The process of installing a roof made of metal tiles, the technology of which will be discussed below, consists of several stages, each of which has its own meaning and must be carried out properly.

Laying metal tiles: preparatory stage and calculations

The first thing that needs to be done if a decision was made to independently carry out the procedure for laying metal tiles on the roof surface is preliminary calculations. This is necessary in order to determine how much of which materials will be required and, accordingly, avoid unnecessary costs.

Let's start by clarifying some basic concepts so that in the future the question of how exactly a metal roof is arranged does not arise. If you look at the roof, which has already been covered with this material, you can see that it consists of rows that run across the slope and waves. The distance from one row to another is called a step.

There is such a thing as "model". This name means sheets of metal tiles, the pitch of which is 35 cm, and the number of waves is 6. On sale you can find sheets of modules 1, 3, 6 and 10.

Useful advice! In addition to purchasing sheets of standard sizes, you can consider the option of individual production of metal tiles to order. Of course, it will cost significantly more, but in this way you can get exactly the kind of material that is right for you. The main thing to remember is that the length of one sheet should not be less than 45 cm or more than 7 m.

In the process of choosing the appropriate sheet size, you need to be guided by the fact that, after installation, the joints and waves converge in such a way as to form a single coating along the entire length of the slope. At the same time, it is quite simple to calculate the amount of material, taking into account the length of the roof and sheets.

When purchasing metal tiles, it is important to pay attention to some additional elements that are included in the kit and allow correct installation. This includes steel strips 2 m long, as well as steel sheets 200x125 cm, which should have the same color as the tiles.

In the process of purchasing metal tiles, you need to make sure that these auxiliary elements are in sufficient quantity and meet all the requirements. For example, the standard incline of the plank is 30 degrees. Although other options are possible at the request of buyers - from 11 to 70 degrees.

Important! 11 degrees is the minimum slope at which the installation of metal tiles is permissible.

DIY materials and tools for laying metal tiles

In order to carry out the installation of metal tiles with your own hands, you need to take care of the availability of some tools and materials in advance that will allow you to carry out all the work as simply and efficiently as possible:

• screwdriver;
• electric drill;
• scissors for cutting metal;
• yardstick;
• hammer;
• marker;
• mounting tape.

It is also worth taking care of the presence of a ladder and means for personal protection of the face and hands (glasses, gloves).

As for the consumables that will be required for the preparation of the base and fastening the metal tile, this list includes: waterproofing material, roofing strips, tiles, as well as an aero roller, strips for the ridge and ends, a guide board and boards 2.5x10 cm. by themselves, you will also need fasteners - self-tapping screws and special sealing washers for them.

Useful advice! To give an attractive appearance to the coating, it is worth using decorative overlays.

How to fix metal tiles: stages of preparatory work

The low weight of the metal tile allows you to carry out a minimum amount of preparatory work before proceeding to laying. And nevertheless, you still have to prepare a suitable foundation. Since there is no need for a reinforced base, an ordinary wooden one made from slats is quite suitable.

The procedure is extremely simple - based on the step of the selected metal tile, slats are located on the surface. It is important to maintain a uniform distance so that during the fastening of the roofing material you do not have to screw the screws into the void. Another important factor that should be taken into account during the installation of the lathing is the location of the windows. It is highly undesirable to place the rafters directly above the windows.

Related article:

Thermal insulation during the installation of a metal roof

When it comes to installing a roof made of metal tiles, the thermal insulation material is designed to solve two problems at once - to reduce heat loss, as well as to reduce the noise level that rain drops produce when they fall on the surface. To do this, a vapor barrier material is first laid on the rafters, and then a layer of thermal insulation. In this case, it is important that the layer thickness does not exceed 25 cm. An antioxidant film is attached from above, fixing it with wooden blocks directly to the rafters.

Important! In order to ensure that precipitation flows into the drain, the material must be fixed with a small allowance (about 2 cm). Due to such a small sagging, there will be no problems with water draining..

Such a "pie" is the most effective roof insulation system, which is allowed by the metal tile installation technology. As for the choice of thermal insulation material, there are several options that depend on cost, quality and manufacturer.

Metal roofing device: basic rules of work

Before starting work related directly to the laying of metal tiles, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules and concepts that will prevent common mistakes and do everything necessary with the highest quality:

1. There are two ways to lay sheets of metal tiles: from right to left and left to right. In the first case, each next sheet should be overlapped on the previous one, and in the second, the previous sheet should be superimposed.
2. It is not necessary to immediately fasten each sheet fully. Before screwing on the metal tile, it is best to lay four sheets and lightly grab them with fasteners so that they hold. Then you need to make sure they are positioned as needed and trim if necessary. For the final fixing, one self-tapping screw is used, which goes through all the sheets.
3. The service life of the entire roof is highly dependent on the quality of the fasteners used. Therefore, due attention should be paid to the choice of self-tapping screws. It is important that they are galvanized and must have special seals on the heads, which will be able to hermetically fill the holes when the self-tapping screw is completely screwed into the hole.
4. In those places where several sheets were fixed at once with the help of one fastening element, one way or another, a seal will appear. In order to smooth it, it is necessary to cut off part of the corner, or you can straighten the capillary groove, which is located under the stamping line.

Fixing scheme for metal tiles and other necessary elements

Certain rules also exist for the installation of other mandatory elements, without which no roof can do. Here are some recommendations regarding the installation scheme for metal tiles and other elements:

• the end strips should be fixed with an overlap, which should be about 2 cm. In this case, the size of the wave should be adjusted in accordance with the width of the slope. Otherwise, you may be faced with the fact that the ridge will fit on the pediment;
• for the curtain rod, it is also necessary to have an overlap of 10 cm on the lower bar of the sheathing, to which it is attached with nails;
• an additional layer of sealing material must be laid between the sheet of metal and the roofing strip;
• for arranging all the elements located below the ridge (pipes and windows), sheets with one module are used. Usually 2 pieces are required for each structural element;
• if the roof slope is sloping, then it is necessary to additionally install an aero roller between the ridge strip and the material itself. This will avoid the penetration of atmospheric precipitation under the ridge;

• the ridge should be fixed to the slats, which are located in the end part of the entire structure. In this case, the calculations should be carried out taking into account the required protrusion, which is 2-3 cm. Moreover, if you have to deal with a flat ridge, then the fastening is made with an overlap, and for semicircular elements according to the profile lines;
• it is necessary to study in advance the specifics of installing a drip under the metal tile, and clearly follow all instructions.

Useful advice! If you have to work with a roof, the angle of inclination of which is more than 45 degrees, then it is worthwhile to carry out calculations in advance that will determine whether it is possible to install a specific model of the ridge strip in this case. This must be done, since otherwise, it may even be necessary to completely replace the entire roofing.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that, if necessary, the ridge bar lends itself to some adjustment. That is, it may not be bent or unbent in order to ensure the most accurate repetition of the angle of inclination of the roof. You can know more about such subtleties from the video instructions for installing metal tiles.

Installation of the valley at the roof with metal tiles

Another extremely important element, the installation rules of which cannot be neglected, is the valley. For each such element, an additional board must be attached. In this case, fastening must be started from the bottom, gradually moving upward and not forgetting about the need for an overlap (in this case, 25-30 cm). Below the level of the eaves, the lower bar is necessarily cut off. Then comes the flanging, under which, as well as under the ridge, a seal is laid.

A gap of about 8-10 cm remains between the sheets and the axis. Then screws are screwed into the cut sheets at a distance of about 1.5 cm from the stamping line. In this case, the mount should be located 25 cm from the axis of the valley. If you follow this technology, then in the end the sheet, in the place of the fastener, will converge with the board on which the valley is located.

As for the installation of the valley below, it must be started before laying the roofing material. This is important in order to further ensure the flow of water directly into the additional element.

Important! All errors in the process of calculations and measurements can lead to the appearance of gaps on the surface, and when heavy precipitation begins, most likely the roof will leak.

In order to cover those places where the cut sheets are visible, special decorative overlays are used. When installing them, you also need to remember a few simple rules:

• installation must be done from bottom to top;
• the seal between the cover and the tiles is not needed;
• the linings must be overlapped at least 10 cm;
• fasteners (in this case, self-tapping screws) should not cause damage to the valley.

Very often you have to deal with situations when the beginning and end of the valleys are located directly on the roof slope. As an example, consider the case when a dormer is being installed. In such a situation, it is imperative to put a separate board, and for the window itself, a hole is made in the sheet of metal tile. At the same time, the cornice cut is covered with a bar. And along the walls, a sealing material must be laid.

How to install metal tiles on a roof with a triangular or trapezoidal slope

If there is a need to cover a triangular or trapezoidal roof with metal tiles, then you will definitely need to install two additional bars. They are installed along the fold line of the roof on both sides of the ridge. After that, the cornice board is mounted and the assembly of the lathing begins. The step of the lathing for metal tiles in this case is calculated in the same way as in the standard scheme. Then the eaves system is installed. They begin to lay the metal tile only after carrying out all these procedures, orienting and leveling the first sheet along the eaves strip.

Important! The distance between the corner sheets that were trimmed and installed near the ridge should not exceed 10 cm.

In order to install the ridge knots, you need to align the ridge strips relative to the ridge angle. In the case of using a straight ridge, it must be cut according to the available corners, and special plugs are provided for the semicircular ridge. Moreover, it is best to use plastic models.

The ridge bar should be located strictly along the axis of the ridge. It is not too difficult a task if the angles of the ramp are the same. If they have different values, then the task becomes much more complicated. As an auxiliary material, bright polyurethane foam is used, which allows you to determine the quality of adhesion to the slopes.

Installation instructions for metal tiles "Monterrey"

A separate type of metal tile, undoubtedly worthy of attention - monterrey. This option is very popular due to some exceptional characteristics:

• extremely high level of material resistance to both ultraviolet radiation and other external factors, such as moisture and temperature;
• due to a layer of polymer applied to the surface of the tile, it does not lose its appearance throughout the entire service life;
• the material is extremely durable and hard, so that it can withstand severe stress;
• multilayer structure prevents corrosion;
• due to its low weight (one square meter of material weighs no more than 5 kg), the load on the rafter system is significantly reduced;
• using this option is a great savings, as there is no need to take a large step between the bindings. Initially, the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles provide for 35-centimeter steps.

There are only two disadvantages of this material - a large amount of residues after installation, as well as the need for high-quality sound insulation.

As for the features that you need to know about before laying the Montrrey metal tile, the following aspects play a role here:

• for different models of this material, it is necessary to prepare a different crate. So, for Standard or Super metal tiles, a step of 35 cm will be enough, but for Lux or Maxi, the step should be 40 cm;
• in the most difficult places of the roof (usually these are internal corners, as well as the place where the chimney outlet is located), you need to make a continuous crate;
• on the abutment strips, to exit the chimney, you need to install internal aprons;
• instructions for the installation of metal tiles "Monterrey" does not provide for the use of material, the length of which is more than 4 m;
• Before installing the material, it is necessary to remove the protective covering, since it may not be possible to do this in the future.

It is categorically impossible to cut the sheet in the transverse direction, as this can lead to the profile crumbling. Also, in no case should you use a grinder or other tools with abrasive wheels for this purpose.

Interesting! The metal tile Cascade also looks great, the installation instructions for which are not too different from all the others. But on the other hand, the appearance of such a roof is considered more aesthetic and original.

How to properly care for metal roofing

Having studied the step-by-step instructions for installing metal siding, you can carry out its high-quality installation. But in order for the material to serve for many years, you need to know how to care for it.

The upper layer of the metal tile is a polymer material that is designed to protect against corrosive processes. But as a result of constant exposure to external factors: atmospheric precipitation, ultraviolet rays, as well as dust and dirt, this layer can begin to collapse, which will lead to the need to replace the coating. In order to avoid this phenomenon and extend the operational life of the roof, the following procedures must be carried out regularly:

• remove dirt, dust and dry leaves from the surface using a damp fluffy brush;
• if we are talking about the elimination of more complex contaminants, then it is permissible to use cleaning agents, but only those that are intended for polymer surfaces. It is strictly forbidden to use aggressive chemicals, as they destroy the protective layer and render the material unusable;
• cleaning of gutters is carried out using a stream of water, which should be directed from the ridge to the cornices;
• it is possible and necessary to clean the snow, but it should be done only with the use of such tools that are not capable of damaging the delicate coating.

Subject to these simple, but extremely important rules, a metal tile covering can regularly serve as a roofing material for about 50 years.

Do-it-yourself common mistakes in the process of installing a metal roofing tile

Inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes that can lead to the fact that the work will have to be partially, and sometimes completely redone. Such negligence can lead to additional expenses for the purchase of material and consumables, so it is better to familiarize yourself with common mistakes in advance in order to prevent them:

• the installation of metal tiles should be carried out exclusively in shoes with soft soles that cannot damage or scratch the coating;
• it is strictly forbidden to step on the crest of the wave, as this can cause deformation;
• moreover, it is generally not recommended to step on the sheets with a full foot;
• when moving along the surface of the material, the leg must be placed parallel, and not perpendicular to the slope;
• you can take the material only with gloves.

Taking into account these simple rules, as well as acting in accordance with the technology of laying metal tiles, you can independently make a beautiful and reliable roof.

Installation of snow holders on metal tiles: instructions and their varieties

A high level of safety is one of the main requirements that apply to a roof made of any material, including metal tiles. For this purpose, special designs are used, which are called snow retainers. And the main goal is to ensure the safe removal of snow from the roof and prevent possible dangerous situations. In addition, they help to maintain the original shape of the structure, and do not allow it to deform under the weight of icy snow. And given that its weight in some cases may exceed the weight of the roof itself, this problem is quite urgent.

Important! The question of the distribution of the load that snow exerts on the roof surface should be thought out even at the stage of laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account in the calculations.

It is almost impossible to predict how the snow will be distributed on the roof surface. It depends on many factors, including the angle of inclination of the roof, wind direction, etc. Therefore, in order to make calculations, a special formula is used:

Q = G × s

In this case, Q is the load exerted by snow, G is the mass of snow on a flat roof surface, which can be found from a special table, and S is the correction factor, which depends on the angle of inclination of the roof:> 25 ° - 1, if 25- 60 ° - 0.7. If the degree of inclination is more than 60, then this is not taken into account, since in this case precipitation on the surface will definitely not linger.

In order to determine the indicator G, it is necessary to refer to a special table that provides information on snow cover for each region of the country.

Installation of tubular snow holders on metal tiles: installation rules

As a rule, a pipe that is laid along the roof is used as the basis for the snow retainers. In the case of using metal tiles as a roofing material, fixation is made in the places where the roof and the load-bearing wall are connected.

It is strictly forbidden to fix these elements on the eaves for metal tiles, as this can lead to the destruction of all systems. Moreover, if you have to deal with a slope, the length of which is quite large, then the installation of snow guards on the metal tile must be carried out in several rows at once in order to ensure a more reliable fixation.

The pipes themselves are attached to the roof either end-to-end or staggered. Special attention should be paid to the installation of such a system in the event that the house has an attic. In this case, the installation must be done in such a way that a snow guard is located above each window opening. As for the distance from the edge of the roof to the elements, 40-50 cm is quite enough.

Lattice snow holders for metal roofing: how to fix it correctly

Lattice snow holders are considered the most effective, so those users who are interested in the quality of the installed systems prefer this option. There are two types of such structures - ordinary and "royal", although it should be admitted that there is not much difference between them, with the exception of the supports and the complexity of the lattices.

The high level of efficiency and safety of this type of snow holders is due to their considerable height, due to which they may not be useful not only in winter when it comes to keeping snow, but also in summer. Indeed, it is in the warm season that all kinds of repair work are most often carried out.

Corner snow holders for metal tiles

Corner snow guards are thin steel sheets coated with a polymer coating that protects them from corrosion. This is one of the most budgetary options, which at the same time allows you to effectively prevent snow from rolling off the roof. It is very easy to choose a model that will fit the existing metal tile, since the range of colors is extremely large.

To fix the corner snow holders on the roof of the roof with metal tiles, self-tapping screws and ordinary metal corners are used. Fastening is carried out on the upper wave of the sheet.

These are just a few of the design options that can be used to prevent snow from rolling off the roof. The metal tile is perfectly combined with many models and varieties of these elements, so there will definitely not be any problems with the choice and fixation.

Installation of a roof window in a metal tile

It is believed that the installation of roof windows is not a task for beginners, and with this question it is best to contact specialists who have proper experience in this area. But this does not mean at all that it is unrealistic to do it yourself, especially if you use step-by-step instructions for dummies. The installation of metal tiles and the installation of the window itself in this case may well go without any problems.

First of all, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the maximum possible width of such a window should be 80-120 mm less than the opening between the rafters. In cases where the rafter step is very small, two small windows are installed in adjacent niches.

The installation of the window is carried out after the roofing "pie" is completely made, then you need to install the mounting bar, for which I use the same boards as for the rafter system. Then the frame is installed and the sashes are mounted. It is very important to take care of high-quality waterproofing so that in the future the window does not become a source of precipitation into the house.

Of course, you have to make some changes in the process of installing the lathing under the metal tile, and pay special attention to the issue of installing the ridge of the metal tile, if you plan to have a roof window. But all these difficulties are more than justified by the excellent result that awaits the owners as a result.

Installation of metal tiles: video instruction for beginners

For those who have never done such work before, it will be extremely useful to watch a video on how to fix metal tiles on the roof. A visual demonstration, as well as the recommendations of specialists, will allow you to avoid mistakes, and independently make a beautiful and reliable roof that will regularly serve for many years.

Metal roofing is an engineering and technical "alloy" of steel strength and aesthetics of traditional roofing ceramics. Lightweight profiled sheets practically do not affect the weight of the structure and delight installers with convenient dimensions.

A sure plus in the piggy bank of material priorities is the ability to independently carry out the entire cycle of roofing work without the paid participation of builders. Only first you need to find out how a roof made of metal tiles is built with your own hands, and learn about the rules and intricacies of the process of its construction.

Corrugated metal sheets of the currently popular coating are equipped with double protection against atmospheric attacks. Steel profiled billets are first immersed in containers with hot zinc, as a result of which an anti-corrosive film is formed on the surface. Then the outer side of the material is covered with a colored polymer shell that performs an aesthetic and protective function.

However, both degrees of protection will not be able to withstand the attacks of precipitation and household fumes if the roofing cake is designed with violations and errors. Condensation will accumulate in the space under the coating, which will slowly but surely reach the metal. The insulation will moisten and lose its insulating qualities. Wooden elements will get wet and rot as a result.

It is also not worth relying entirely on the light weight and impressive area of ​​the sheets of material: both the rafter system must be strong enough, and the lathing is needed so that each element is fixed at the required number of points. Therefore, you should properly prepare for the independent installation of metal tiles, i.e. get acquainted with the nuances of the construction of the truss structure, lathing and roofing cake.

Rafter system and lathing

Metal tiles are used in the arrangement of cold and insulated roofs. The rafter system for the cold type can be erected from steel or aluminum elements. But the priority is still wood, because it is easier to attach the covering sheets to it. Insulated structures require more powerful rafter trusses, because thermal insulation will be located between their legs. The use of metal in such situations is impractical, therefore, warm roofs are arranged on wooden rafters with a crate.

Note that the installation of a metal roofing is possible on pitched roofs with a minimum slope of 14º. The optimal slope is considered to be from 15º to 20º.

The construction of a rafter system for a warm roof with metal tiles has its own rules, these are:

• The step between the rafter legs should not exceed 90cm. The minimum distance between the rafters is 60cm. If the step of the existing rafter system is greater than the specified upper limit, an additional crate is arranged from a transversely installed board.
• The rafter system is arranged from a board 50mm thick. The recommended board height is 100 or 150 mm, depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
• Stacked between the rafter legs should not come into contact with traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the rafter structure, then an additional counter batten of 30 × 50 or 50 × 50 is packed on the rafters along their direction. It will create a 3-5cm gap.

In order to ensure ventilation of the wooden elements, it is advisable to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 cm in the rafter legs on the side. Hole formation is an optional procedure, but strongly recommended by metal tile manufacturers. If there are concerns about the weakening of the structure, it is advised to place them closer to the ridge in two or three rows with a step of 30 cm.

Before the construction of the lathing, which works as the basis for fastening the sheets, the geometric parameters of the rafter system should be checked. The lengths of the diagonals of the rectangular slopes should be measured and verified. On mansard roofs, the lengths of the diagonals of each part of the ramp are separate. You need to check the horizontality of the overhangs and the ridge, as well as the location of the outer surface of the rafter legs in the same plane. Timely identification of deviations in geometry will eliminate further errors.

Having convinced of the geometric impeccability of the trusses, you can proceed to the construction of the crate, in the device of which, by analogy, there are clear rules:

• First lath - the lowest lath on the overhang must be higher than the next row laths. For its construction, you need to take a bar thicker than for ordinary laths. For example, for the bottom rail 50 × 50, and for all subsequent ones 30 × 50.
• The starting batten of the battens must be clearly parallel to the line of the eaves.
• The step between the first and second lath is 28 or 30 cm. The step between subsequent slats is 30, 35 or 40 cm. the pitch is determined by the distance between the shear waves of the metal tile.
• In the process of installing the lathing, through penetrations through the roof are taken into account and fasteners for pipes are installed.
• In the gutters, around the dormer windows, chimneys, funnels and other pipes, a continuous sheathing is arranged from the board.
• In the upper part of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the eaves strip. The boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Among other things, before the lathing device, all wooden components should be treated with an antiseptic and a fire-fighting compound.

The lathing plays not only the role of the basis for fastening the sheets, but at the same time it performs another very important work. It forms ventilation ducts through which air flows circulate from the overhang to the ridge, and provides a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.

The ventilation ducts must remain free so that the air can flow under the metal sheets and exit in the same way. From the side of the overhangs and from the side of the ridge, they are simply covered with perforated tape, which prevents dust and debris from entering the roofing cake.

Structural roof boards

Cornice boards are used to reinforce the slope and give it cruelty if the roof is planned to be equipped with an organized drain or to hem the overhangs with vinyl siding. In situations where the filing is done trivially with a board, there is no need to use board reinforcement.

The cornice boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves pre-selected in the rafters. The dimensions of the grooves must correspond to the dimensions of the board so that the plane of the overhang remains unchanged and the height of the rafter system does not increase. If it is planned to install long hooks used to fix the gutter, grooves are cut in the eaves board to fix them. The short-stemmed hooks can only be screwed onto the front board. They are used when the device of the drainage system was not planned in advance and when repairing old roofs. The pitch of all types of hooks is equal to the pitch of the rafter legs.

A frontal board is used if the roof does not have an organized drain. It is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. Serves as an element for fastening various roofing parts and accessories, including for hemming overhangs. The end board serves as the basis for the end plate, the latter closes the waterproofing laid on top of the board. In addition to the decorative function, the plank, nailed to the end board, prevents the roof from rattling.

Time to hem the overhangs

Coating manufacturers strongly advise to hem the overhangs with specially manufactured valves for this purpose, for example KTV or Vilpe. For filing cornices, siding, profiled sheet or vinyl soffits are recommended. Dobors are sold with a full attachment of fittings and instructions. It can be economically hemmed with a board that is attached with a gap for roof ventilation.

The specifics of the roofing cake

The composition and structure of a roofing cake for metal tiles depends on whether the structure is insulated or not. In the simplest non-insulated scheme, only a waterproofing film is used. A vapor barrier is used if the attic is supposed to be hemmed.

Insulated roofing cake includes three standard layers, these are:

• Vapor barrier. Located on the side of the future intake of household vapors, i.e. from the inside of the rafter system. Her job is to protect the insulation from steam. Strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to the overhangs with an overlap of 10-15 cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and are connected into a single canvas with adhesive tape. A gap should be created between the inner lining of the attic and the vapor barrier by installing battens.
• Thermal insulation. Mineral wool slabs are most often used as insulation, the thickness of which is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP II-3-79. The material is placed between the rafter legs. To ensure the rigidity of the installation, the slabs are cut 1.5-2 cm wide than the distance between the rafters.
• Waterproofing. It is needed as a barrier against precipitation. They lay it on the outside of the rafter system in front of the sheathing device, try to arrange it immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. The waterproofing material is laid, like a vapor barrier, in strips with a similar overlap and fastening methods.

The waterproofing layer is laid so that its canvas overlaps the lines of the walls around the perimeter by at least 20 cm. In the areas of joining of slopes, in valleys, laying is carried out with overlaps of 20-30 cm. Along the ridge line, the waterproofing must have a gap so as not to interfere with air circulation.

An important condition: bituminous water-repellent materials cannot be used as a waterproofing of the roofing pie when installing a metal roof. Waterproofing must allow steam and condensate accumulated in the insulation to pass through.

The method of constructing the water-repellent layer depends on the material used:

• The classic version of waterproofing is a reinforced or unreinforced polyethylene film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first of them is formed by the rafter system and is located between the insulation and the film, the second is formed by the crate and is located between the film and the roof covering. The size of each of the gaps is 3-5cm.
• The super diffusion membrane can work perfectly with one 3-5cm wide ventilation gap. It is created between the membrane and metal tiles. When using a polymer material, it makes no sense to break the contact between the waterproofing and the insulation. After all, the membrane is capable of letting excess moisture outward, preventing it from getting inside.
• Anti-condensation materials with a fleecy surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated by washing with air, which should provide a path. Therefore, this option also needs double-circuit ventilation, like the classic. It is used mainly for arranging cold roofs.

All types of insulating materials, except for polymer waterproofing, are laid with sagging. It is so necessary that the film does not break when the film is pulled. Only the membrane does not need to be laid with sagging - it tends to stretch.

Around the through passages through the roof, waterproofing is installed on the walls of the communication pipes by 5-7 cm. Ideally, an additional waterproofing layer is recommended around pipes and other weakened roof sections.

Installation of parts before laying the coating

Before laying metal tiles, it is mandatory to install:

• Eaves strips, excluding the penetration of dust and debris into the under-roof space. They are mounted on top of the ventilation tape and the legs of the drain hooks attached to the ends. The strips are attached to the frontal and eaves board with self-tapping screws with a step of 30 cm. To prevent rattling from gusts of wind, these metal parts are installed with an interference fit.
• Eaves drip, which are located under the waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from the waterproofing.
• Lower valley that reinforces the protection of the concave roof corners. It is a metal corner that repeats the shape of the groove. It is mounted on top of a solid plank lathing. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice board. In almost flat gutters, the boardwalk is equipped with an additional waterproofing strip. The lower valley is screwed on with self-tapping screws every 30 cm. A porous seal is laid on top of the lower valley.
• Protective bypass around chimneys that cross the roof. It is carried out with the help of metal bypass strips, the upper edge of which is attached to the groove formed in the pipe walls and processed with a sealant. It is forbidden to groove into the seam! The same rules apply when arranging abutments to the walls.
• A lightning rod required for the safe operation of a metal roof.

The lightning protection system consists of three main parts. The first one is a lightning rod, which is a steel or aluminum bar Ø 12mm, length from 20cm to 1.5m. The second component of the down conductor is a single-core steel or aluminum wire Ø 6mm welded to the lightning rod. Lay the down conductor along the crate and along the walls, lead to ground. Grounding, the third part of the system, is an iron beam 1.5 m long buried at a depth of 1.5 m or a steel sheet with an area of ​​1 m × 1 m, for example.

Rules for laying sheets of metal tiles

Before laying the profiled sheets, it is necessary to arrange logs for transporting the material to the roof. In order not to lift the cover one sheet at a time, it is advisable to build racks for temporary storage. The home craftsman will also need soft shoes, diligence and accuracy in the process of moving around the roof. The contractor is allowed to step exclusively into the deflections of the profiled waves.

When laying metal tiles, you can move either to the left or to the right of the first fixed sheet. The main thing is that the sheet laid on top overlaps the capillary groove. The guideline for choosing the direction of laying is convenience. However, it is better to act so that the element laid on top is immediately placed under the extreme wave of the previous one and snaps into place with a capillary groove. This will lock it in place and prevent slipping.

Typical installation sequence

Indisputable rules for installing metal tiles:

• The starting sheets are attached to the first lath through a wave on top of the transverse step of the covering. Their lower edge extends 5 cm beyond the cornice.
• All subsequent fastenings of the sheets are carried out in the decays of the waves from the bottom of the transverse step.
• Along the end board, the profiled covering is fixed in all waves.

Before fastening, it is necessary to carefully check the horizontal position of the sheet. After making sure that the installation is perfect, it is temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the upper edge in the center. Then the second sheet is laid, aligned and temporarily fixed in the same way. The aligned sheets are fastened together. Do the same with the third and fourth.

Screwing to the crate is carried out when a block of 3-4 sheets is laid and temporarily fixed. The block is fixed at all points. Only the outermost sheet is not screwed to the crate, so that it remains possible to connect it with the next element.

The process of laying metal-tile sheets in several rows differs only in that the rows of material must also be fastened to each other. Sheets are built up vertically.

Profiled sheets are suitable for pitched roofs of any configuration. However, for a competent device of a hip or hip roof made of metal tiles, you will have to act according to a different scheme.

Installation of sheets on ramps of a triangular shape:

• We find the center of the overhang and draw a central axis through it.
• We take the first sheet and do the same with it.
• We combine the axes of the slope and the sheet in fact, we check the horizontal and vertical lines.
• Temporarily fasten the sheet with a self-tapping screw in the center at the upper edge.
• We install the sheets to the right and left of the central element of the cover in the usual way.

After fixing the corrugated sheets, the excess is cut off.

Convenience of cutting with marking of material for arranging valleys, triangular, trapezoidal and oblique slopes, will provide a homemade "devil". It is built from four boards 10 cm wide. The boards are arranged in parallel pairs and are connected to each other according to the hinge principle. A simple tool will help you precisely define the segments to be trimmed.

Final assembly work

After laying the wavy flooring with a light soul, you can proceed to the finishing touches:

• Install passages around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roofing cake are sealed with adhesive tape at the intersection points. Butt joints are filled with sealant.
• Screw the end plate to the end plate with self-tapping screws every 50-60 cm.
• Screw on the top plate of the valley, first placing a self-expanding seal on the cover.
• Build a skate. To do this, the area of ​​the ridge is pasted over from the outside with waterproofing of the Metalroll or Figarol brand. The ventilation ducts must remain open. The ridge is fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate, the fasteners should be screwed through the convex comb. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.

A drainage system, snow holders, service ladders and fences, if planned, are mounted on the laid surface.

A detailed video instruction will become an excellent fixation of information about the device on the roof of a solid metal roof with your own master's hands:

There are many nuances in the construction of a roof with metal tiles. However, there is nothing super complicated in technology. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the device and observe them so that you do not have to change the roof again for the next option.