Chernozem in the country - the pros and cons. Fertile soil with delivery to the site Preparatory work to raise the land

Not every site intended for the construction of a summer residence can boast of a flat terrain. The arrangement of the territory within its boundaries is difficult. In such cases, the site should be raised even before the construction of the house. To get it right raise the level of the area, it is necessary to determine its geological features and relief. The land can be located:

1. Above sea level.
2. Below sea level.
3. Above ground level.
4. Below ground level.

Based on the terrain, determine what is the best way to raise land.

In the first and third cases, it may be necessary to raise the ground in the country only to level the terrain: eliminate depressions and smooth out irregularities. Land below sea level is usually swampy and the site should be raised to avoid flooding the foundations of buildings. If the cottage or cottage is located below ground level, then water from neighboring slopes will accumulate on the territory of the household.

How to raise the land on the site, ask by phone + 7-985-112-20-10

There are several basic ways to level up. If the lifting height lies within 30 centimeters, then soil imported or taken from neighboring elevations is used. The poured earth mixture is leveled, compacted and covered with a fertile layer (previously removed).

With level differences of more than 30 centimeters or more, planning mixtures are used (sand in combination with soil and clay). Laying of materials is carried out in layers, sprinkled with fertilizers and covered with fertile soil.

Only specialists can correctly determine the composition of planning mixtures. It usually depends on the budget cheap option this is clay, loam, soil, sandy loam), but it is also possible with sand, sandy soil, soil and black soil!

After evaluating the surface fertile layer, professionals will tell you if the soil ( loam, sandy loam, soil) what composition should be used to properly raise the level of the site. It is worth considering that the price of a mixture of different compositions is different. To raise the level by 1 meter per 1 hectare of area, about 100 cubic meters of earth mixture will be required.

Preparatory stage of work

Before, how to raise the earth in the country , a number of preliminary steps must be taken:

• study the terrain;
• determine the depth of groundwater;
• determine the type of soil; neighbors)
• clean the surface of debris, weeds, stumps;
• allow dump trucks to enter the gate!

You can qualitatively raise the site with the help of strip foundation, which is also created on preliminary stage. To create it, they dig a trench to a depth of 20 centimeters and select the soil. Then formwork is made from boards and poured with mortar. And the excavated soil is planned for the summer cottage!

Provision of services for raising a land plot from 6 acres

How raise the ground on the site to ensure good drainage and runoff of excess water? To do this, lay the earth mixture ( soil clay sand sand soil soil) with a slight slope - equal to 3 centimeters per meter of length. The sequence of work is as follows:

Now when suburban construction intensively developing, the acquisition of land for the construction of a summer house or a cottage becomes especially relevant. However, it often turns out that with an insufficiently thorough study of the terrain, the owner ends up with a two-level plot, which leads to problems both in the construction of structures on it and in the arrangement of the territory. To imagine how to deal with this, consider the most common ways to solve the problem.

Types of land

Land plots vary greatly in their relief and geological features. Among them are:

• Land plots above sea level. Their feature is the location in the mountains or on a hill. This usually causes large quantity precipitation falling in such an area, and a lower average annual temperature. The soils here are predominantly podzolic, clay or sandy, but sometimes there are carbonate or podzolic chernozems. Relief land plot located above sea level, it can be both flat and hilly. In the latter case, one cannot do without raising the level, that is, without eliminating the most noticeable depressions.

• Land plots below sea level. They are often characterized by significant bogging of soils, sometimes by the formation of solonchaks, but fertile silty soils are also not uncommon. Therefore, you should not immediately refuse such an acquisition, but it is advisable to definitely raise the level of the site in order to avoid future flooding of the foundation of buildings and create optimal conditions for growing horticultural and horticultural crops.

• Land plots below ground level. Here, raising the level on the site is mandatory, since its territory turns out to be, as it were, in a lowland and water will flow onto it from neighboring sections, a nearby highway, etc., leading to soil leaching and a decrease in the life of structures. The high level of groundwater typical for such territories can have a particularly detrimental effect.
• Land plots above ground level. At first glance, they are practically devoid of flaws, but the uneven terrain creates additional difficulties in the cultivation of the garden, caring for the garden, and simply in moving around the territory, where it is very easy to stumble. However, raising the level of the site, which is necessary here to smooth out irregularities, allows you to quickly solve this problem.

Why raise land

If, at first glance, the difference in levels on the site is not too pronounced, many people have a desire to save money and start ennobling the territory without the hassle of raising the level of zones located in the lowlands compared to the rest. But there are several cases when experts recommend strongly thinking about this operation:

• Groundwater flows too close to the soil surface, which can cause waterlogging and erosion of the top, most fertile soil layer.

• The site has several pronounced hills and depressions. This makes it difficult not only to build a house, but also to improve the territory adjacent to it: for example, lanterns installed in a lowland will not do a good job of illuminating the site, and flowers or vegetables planted on a hill will not take root well from the gradual sliding of the soil.

• Neighboring plots are located much higher than this plot. And this automatically means that during heavy rains or floods, water will constantly and regularly stand in the area around the house.

Ways to raise the land

In practice, there are not so many ways to raise the level of a land plot, but they all have proven themselves quite well. They differ depending on what height it is necessary to raise the territory of the site:

• If this indicator does not exceed 30 cm, land is usually used (imported or taken from the heights of the site). Additionally, it is compacted with a vibrating plate and placed on top of the previously removed fertile layer soil.

• If the difference in levels between zones adjoining territory reaches 30 cm or more, they act differently: they take the so-called "planning" mixtures, in which sand is combined with gravel. They are laid in layers, between which it is recommended to place layers of fertilizers, and on top of them - the upper fertile soil layer, without which planting of any plants will be impossible.

The situation requires special attention when it is necessary to raise the level of the site on which it is planned to make a lawn. In this case, one of three options is usually resorted to:

• If water regularly stands on the lawn, flooding it, then before raising the level of the site, you should make sure that there is no clay layer inside the soil. Otherwise, this operation will not give anything in terms of drainage, even if the groundwater flows deep. After confirming the presence of clay, it should be completely removed and replaced with a layer of sand, on top of which black soil is laid out. Then the water will go much better.
• If there is a road above the area on which the lawn is located, and this leads to water flowing into the area, it is best to raise its level with porous soil. Usually they are river sand. So that such soil does not erode, it is advisable to enclose the lawn with a concrete fence with a height of 3-4 cm, however, its installation depth in the soil should be at least 20 cm.
• When it is precisely established that the depth of groundwater is really no more than a meter or two, then, in addition to filling the earthen or sandy layer in the lawn area, it is necessary to take care of additional installation drainage system.

Preparatory work for raising the land

In order to beautify personal plot was effective, before raising the level of the site, it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory work. For this:

• They carefully study the relief of the territory, determine the type of soil and the depth of the flow of groundwater, as well as the proximity of water bodies.
• It will always be useful to observe neighboring areas where they can dig foundation pits for laying the foundation of a house, pits for fence posts, or lay a drainage system from the territory. This will allow you to visually determine the depth at which the water is in the well, find out in which direction the water flows from the site, and where it turns out to be impossible at all and the area partially resembles a swampy one, especially in certain times of the year. Also, such a kind of "spying" on neighbors makes it possible to determine whether the soil is sandy, clay or peat without expensive geological exploration.
• After preliminary orientation on the ground, it is necessary to clean the site: remove old tree roots, debris, stumps, weeds. Further, it is desirable to give the soil time to settle for a week, but on condition that the weather is dry.

• During the settling period, you should begin to create a strip foundation around the entire perimeter of the strip foundation. Its height is chosen so that the foundation rises above the soil level in neighboring areas. To achieve this, the perimeter is surrounded by a trench, the depth of which must be at least 20 cm. wooden formwork. For the manufacture of formwork take wooden board with a thickness of approximately 30-40 mm, which is fixed with stakes installed at a distance of 50-100 cm from each other. Cement-crushed stone or cement-gravel mortar is poured into the middle of the formwork. The ratio of components in it should be as follows: for one part of cement there are 3 parts of sand and 5 parts of gravel. If the air temperature is 15-20 degrees, the strip foundation will acquire 70% of its safety margin during the week. This will allow you to proceed to the next stage of work.

Land raising technology

When raising the level of the site, we will need:

• Shovels.
• Cord.
• Hose.
• Rake.
• Buckets.
• Sand.
• Rubble.
• Water.
• Gravel.
• Cement.
• Vibrating plate.
• hydrostatic level.
• Yardstick.
• Concrete mixer.

To different levels the plot turned into a flat surface with a slight slope (about 3 cm per meter of length) to improve soil drainage, the following operations must be performed:

• Carefully remove the fertile soil layer 10-20 cm thick. It is folded into separate place up to the final stage of work.
• If it is planned to level the ground level on a site on a local scale, it is advisable to place small blocks across this zone and along the perimeter of the strip foundation. wooden pegs at a distance of approximately 2 meters from each other and pull a cord between them. This will allow you to adjust the level of the soil, removing or adding it between the pegs until it reaches the level of the above cord. In order for the required height of the plot to be uniform, it should be controlled by means of a hydrostatic level.

• Properly distribute the areas where the soil is to be topped up. So, the level of the zone in which the beds or the lawn will be located is usually increased by adding sand. If the place is not intended for growing plants and paths pass through it or utility rooms are located, the level is raised by adding sandy loam or clay. With a very large difference between the levels at a depth, it is permissible to place even construction waste.

Further actions depend on the thickness of the layer that needs to be added to raise the level of the area:

• If the soil level needs to be raised to a height not exceeding 30 cm, we bring the earth to the site and lay it in layers, the thickness of which is 5-10 cm. After laying one layer, it should be compacted with vibrating plates, filled with water and left for a day. Only after that it is allowed to proceed to the next layer. The procedure is repeated until the desired height is reached. At the same time, be sure to take into account the thickness of the previously removed fertile soil layer, which is returned to its place, placed on top of all well-compacted layers.
• If the relief of the site is far from a perfectly flat surface, and the difference between the levels exceeds 30 cm, the algorithm of actions is almost the same, but instead of the earth they take a sand and gravel mixture. It is laid in layers 5 cm thick. At the same time, it is recommended to place a layer of fertilizers in the middle of each of them, usually a peat pad. Each layer of the “planning” mixture of sand and gravel must be well compacted and left to settle for a day before filling the next layer.
• At the final stage, the height of the laid layers of earth or sand and gravel mixture should be slightly higher than the required level, since the soil with a kind of filler inside shrinks. Its term depends on the amount of precipitation, the thickness of the laid layers and other factors.

All of the above is valid only for plots small area. If the area to be leveled occupies several hectares, special equipment is used as follows:

• First, the fertile soil layer is removed using a special bulldozer. It is equipped with a hinged knife that allows you to cut and move the soil to other places. After the fertile layer is deposited in a safe place, the bulldozer is used to cut off high mounds and fill depressions with this earth. At the same time, the advantage of the bulldozer is that it is able to perform its functions not only on a relatively flat surface, but also in areas with difficult terrain, where there are hills, ravines, dry stream beds, etc.

• Then the plot is plowed twice: in the transverse and longitudinal directions, and after that it is treated - also twice - with a cultivator. The next stage is the sealing of the top layer. For this operation, a barrel filled with water is often used.
• The final stage is the sowing of lawn grass seeds, which are sprinkled with earth or sand. Then the surface is rolled with a barrel again.

Very good results are obtained by raising the level of the land, if it is accompanied by the arrangement of a drainage system that prevents flooding of the site. To do this, trenches are dug along the perimeter of the territory, the slope of which should not be less than 3-4 cm per meter.

Rich soils are like a kind of sponge: they retain water and nutrients in themselves, and then give them in portions to plants and beneficial soil organisms, and they also contain quite a lot of air. Fertile soil provides the roots with a comfortable thermal regime and favorable acidity, it has a better structure, it is not so prone to compaction.

The fertility of the earth is largely determined by the content of organic matter in its upper layer. It consists of the remains of roots and ground parts of plants, the results of the vital activity of soil animals and microorganisms, and most importantly - humus, a mass of organic matter. dark color with which the soil is impregnated.

Everyone knows the most fertile types of soils - chernozems. They contain a lot of humus and basic nutrients, and rich organic matter upper layer can be more than 1 m thick. These soils warm up quickly and cool slowly, and due to the lumpy and granular structure, they retain looseness, air and water permeability, and retain moisture well.

However, if your site is located in a non-chernozem zone, this does not mean at all that nothing can be grown on it. The experience of many summer residents shows that poor soil can be successfully improved and cultivated. You can deal with this in a variety of ways.

Bring black earth?

Many summer residents are obsessed with the idea - to bring black soil to the site and pour it in a layer over poor land. If you really find real black soil, and not waste soil, peat or sludge from urban wastewater treatment plants, then the effect will be. But temporary - for 3-4 years. And then nature will take its course: bulk black earth soil will gradually wash out, decompose and disappear. Besides high yield you can get without it!

Our reference

Chernozems are formed in forest-steppe or steppe conditions and exist only in places with a certain climate, where grasses dry up every summer, and their roots then decompose in the presence of calcium. Alas, after plowing, the black soil turns into an artificial environment for growing plants and degrades over time.

Scientists have found that the transportation of black soil to a distance further than 100 km is unprofitable.

Fertilize with manure?

Bovine

The popular fertilizer from the barn contains not so many nutrients, but it is very rich in microorganisms (both beneficial and pathogenic) and weed seeds. Therefore, fresh cow dung must be processed into humus (see below). Fresh manure can be applied directly to the soil only long before planting, for example, in the fall, by planting it in the ground.

Used barn bedding is a valuable future fertilizer.

Pork

The waste products of pigs cannot be used fresh due to the presence of pathogens in it, and its acidity is higher than that of manure from other animals. Although pig manure contains a lot of nitrogen and phosphorus in forms available to plants. In this regard, pig manure needs competent composting, after which it can also be safely applied.

Horse

Compared to cow dung, horse dung is more saturated nutrients. In addition, it decomposes quickly, releasing a lot of heat, which is why it is called hot and is used for cooking. warm beds. Horse manure is dry, contains a lot of fibers and due to this helps to maintain the integrity of the soil structure. When rotted, it is well suited for mulching. You can mix it with other types of manure and compost it.

Make humus!

Rotted manure with peat - excellent organic fertilizer. It can be safely used both for continuous application (approximately 20 kg / 10 m 2) with incorporation into the soil, and for point application - in planting holes or furrows (5 kg / 10 m 2). On sandy soils, manure is embedded deeper (up to 30 cm) than on clay soils (15-20 cm). By adding mineral fertilizers, especially nitrogen and phosphorus, we can significantly increase the effect of organics.

How to cook humus?

Fresh manure should be folded into a compost bin in the form of " layer cake» with peat (in proportions from 1:1 to 4:1) with the addition of lime or phosphate rock. The thickness of each layer is 25-30 cm. The contents of the heap are moistened as necessary, not allowing to dry out. During composting (six months to a year), pathogenic microflora and part of weed seeds die. It is undesirable to use sawdust for composting, as valuable nitrogen is lost.

Attention!

Improving the soil is not enough, you need to maintain fertility. But for this it is no longer necessary to purchase trucks of manure or peat. Details are in the next issue.

Soil improvement: clay, sandy, peaty

Construction on suburban area: where to put a layer of soil?

Where to plant trees, build a greenhouse, make beds

Soil for seedlings: soil for tomatoes, soil for cucumbers

DIY beds: improving the soil, increasing fertility

Dig the green chopped mass together with the soil to a depth of 8-10 cm at any time, as soon as such an opportunity presents itself, and hay is best applied in the spring, before planting in trenches, under a layer of soil, 25-30 cm thick. Can be applied to such trenches and food waste(except for bones), tops, vegetable peelings. Leaves are best applied in autumn for shallow digging. How to improve the soil on the site? Sow winter rye or white mustard at the end of summer, and in late autumn dig up the aerial part of the mustard and rye shoots along with the roots. Rye can be left until spring, but then it will first have to be mowed, and then dug up. You can "treat" the soil with bacterial fertilizers, which are sold ...

High beds-boxes from Igor Lyadov. crop beds, beautiful vegetable garden

Garbage bags: the subtleties of choice.

Morning. Hasty fees to work. We remember about the garbage, we pick it up from the bucket ... And then, at the most inopportune moment - on stairwell or at the entrance, the polyethylene is torn - tin cans, pieces of paper and bits spill out under your feet. The situation is unpleasant, but familiar to many firsthand. How to avoid it? Carefully consider the choice of garbage bags. The main characteristic that affects the quality of the package is the composition of the feedstock. As a rule, a distinction is made between low density polyethylene (LDPE...

Discussion

I recently found the site of one company on the Internet, they produce high-quality garbage bags, use the latest equipment and have a lot of experience ... in general, if anyone is interested, I will leave the link [link-1]

Personally, my wife often sends me to take out the trash, but since I'm too lazy, I wait until the last minute, and they often tear along the way, I found a place where there are strong bags [link-1], I advise.

How best to arrange garden plot to have enough space for everything? To small plot contained everything you need and visually seemed larger, you have to follow certain rules and even resort to tricks. First of all, you should not build a house and a garage in the middle of the site or on the opposite side from the entrance. The access road will take up too much space in this case. To save space...

According to Mittlider, narrow beds are watered every day. Organic is a different matter. If both the beds and the aisles are covered with mulch, two waterings per week is enough. Drip irrigation is especially convenient here: one tape is enough for a narrow bed, a maximum of two for a bed of 70-80 cm. Trenches - narrow beds for hot climates If your site never gets warm, it is best to sink a narrow compost bin into the ground. Right in the sod, I dig a trench two bayonets wide and a bayonet deep. Down I put branches and humus with soil, and on top - ready-made compost with soil. I plant tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, cabbage, peppers in two rows. When they get up and grow up, I fill up the trench with straw or grass. And my countryman Sergey Kladovikov mulches his trenches with shredded cardboard...

How to properly plan your garden.

Have you decided to grow a crop and do not know where to start? First of all, it is necessary to properly plan the plot of the garden. It depends on how rich your harvest will be. A big role is played by what conditions you create for your crops. In the old days, it was considered if there were no fruit trees, shrubs, flowers, fragrant herbs on the site, as well as vegetable crops then the plot is not beautiful. Site planning To properly plan the site, you must decide what you ...

Are there any mandatory requirements for...

The question is: is it possible to install cesspool or a septic tank behind a fence, outside the site?

Discussion

In fact, there is a whole set of rules for installing sewer facilities. But it was easier for us with this - representatives of the officials installed the Topas 6 septic tank for us, so they did everything as it should be on the site. No complaints, everyone is happy. And by the way, we also immediately ordered the service. We plan to mothball the septic tank for the winter, since there is such an opportunity. The septic tank itself is resistant to voltage drops, it works constantly. You seek advice from people who are involved and understand this directly and you will be happy.

You can build a septic tank anywhere, but you need to keep in mind that building a septic tank off-site is an illegal structure and the following risks await you:

Firstly, the construction outside the site will definitely be noticed by someone and brought to your attention.

Secondly, there are no guarantees that sometime in the future you will not be issued an order to eliminate the illegal construction at your expense,

Thirdly, when registering a building, you will have to register (show on the drawings and present SES) a septic tank. A septic tank located outside the site will deprive you of the opportunity to officially register the building.

Tell me, please - we want to buy a plot - they offer the last one to the forest (behind it is a drainage ditch from the rear and a forest on the side, (neighbor on one side only). Or we can take it in the middle of the row (neighbors on both sides). What are the pros and cons of extreme sections?What is better to choose?

Discussion

I'm hooked, I'll write too. A few years ago we bought a plot on the edge of the village. Corner plot, neighbors on both sides, no plots across the road. Along the fence on the street I planted different trees, lilacs, pines, now they are growing, there will be beauty. Village on a hill with panoramic views. It's beautiful too...
But according to the wind rose from the field, fire from the track comes to our site - cigarette butts are thrown or specially set on fire, I can’t say. And where do these idiot arsonists come from???
Fields are not cultivated, dry grass is burning. Last spring was like the end of the world. All the fields in the vicinity burned down, unmown areas. One house on an overgrown neighbor's plot. I had everything cut to the ground. So it worked out. But if suddenly there is no one to mow the grass around the site, everything can fucking burn out in one season.
Photos for seeding - for those who choose the extreme site, and for those who are still burning last year's grass. This is what we had on May 1, 2015.

It is huge, it owns 10 acres, but in fact it is half a hectare. And there are no neighbors behind the fence. - already said, safety. True, a friend said that they climbed into the neighbors in the middle even if there was a barrier and a security guard. Yes, we have our own pine alley along the fence, my husband planted it 20 years ago, here's another +.

But if there was a forest on the site of the site, or the land needs to be dug for other reasons, you will have to start planting the lawn in accordance with all the rules. We will tell you how to make a lawn in the country with your own hands, which lawn grass buy how often the lawn needs watering and mowing. What is a lawn? This is a specially arranged, leveled area, sown with various turf-forming or creeping low-growing plants. Lawns can...

I really need advice. We have a plot of land 7mX3m in front of the house on the south side. The sun is always there. Initially, I planted clematis there - out of 25 varieties, 4 remained, the rest could not stand it, although watering according to the rules (a lot and rarely). Planted thuja - turned yellow. The land is good there, but you need to plant plants that really love the heat and the sun. Maybe grapes? Tell me please. Thank you.

Discussion

Are you ready to mess with grapes? the neighbor is constantly wrapping him up
I grow, irises, peonies, phloxes, daylilies, marigolds, delphinium, lilies, roses from neighbors

It's strange about clematis - I have 20 pieces sitting on the south side of the house in a sunny area for 12 years, and no problem if you shade the base of the bush, planting annuals so that the soil does not overheat.

Girls, tell me, I want to buy a land machine (there is so much soil and black soil and a lot of everything else ...) for 1. I need to plant trees 2. make a small garden 3. if there is a little left, then a piece of lawn is actually the question what kind of land to buy? and if you give the passwords for the turnout in Kiev, it would be great!

And weeds will again climb out of the ground, and the gardeners will have new stage struggle for the cleanliness of the beds. Is it possible to stop weeding the beds? Last summer, with the help of gardening author Galina Kizima, we figured out why weeding is the most inefficient way to control weeds. Today we will find out what can be done right now, while there is still snow on the beds. So, we taught how to deal with perennial rhizomatous weeds ...
...While the snow is lying If you arrive at your site before the last snow melts, do the following manipulations. Scatter ash or peat on the beds directly on the snow to slightly blacken their surface. Then cover the beds with the remnants of the old film, lay it on top of the poles so that the film does not lift up or be blown away by the wind. In the spring, the sun bakes well, and under a layer of film, the blackened snow on the beds will quickly melt, the surface layer of the soil will warm up, and weeds will quickly sprout from it. This will happen in about 10-12 days. When you visit your site in two weeks, you will see that the weeds have sprouted. Remove the film, loosen the top layer of soil and leave the beds open for a day. Young seedlings of weeds will die. Weeds are the most vulnerable...

What soil do you buy for seedlings? Last year, my husband took it to the Metro, I didn’t like it at all, the seedlings in this land obviously didn’t feel very well. (Which do you recommend?

"" Blanket "" for the beds: why cover the earth for the winter.

Some very diligent gardeners, after harvesting, remove weeds, dig up the soil, level the surface and leave it for the winter, admiring the neat view of the garden. It is believed that the soil is resting. However, the uncovered soil does not rest, but collapses. She is like a naked man chilling in the cold wind and freezing in the cold. AT organic farming soil is treated as a living being. Live her...

And only once. We tell how now, in the fall, to prepare a bed for spring plantings. The most time-consuming step in the arrangement of organic beds is double digging of the soil. It is most convenient to use a rectangular, well-sharpened shovel. It is also necessary to prepare a pitchfork and a board with a length equal to the width of the beds, so that it is convenient to stand on it without trampling the ground when digging. The width of the beds should be made no more than 1-1.2 m - so that you can freely reach the middle of the beds from any side. The length is taken as needed or the allotted area allows. Mark out the garden. If the ground is dry, water evenly with water, at first a little, so that only ...

Garden for the lazy: how to get rid of weeding beds in the country

How to get rid of watering in the country: 9 materials for mulch

Garden for the lazy: why digging is bad

Discussion

07/06/2014 04:57:05 PM, btrfvd

It's not the first time I've read comments like this. Some authors go even further and suggest that we do not shed tomatoes, weed weeds, or even sow, but simply leave part of the plants so that their seeds ripen and are sown.
I read it and am amazed every time. It seems that people consider a fair part of humanity not only idiots, but also masochists. After all, experiments on such "natural farming" over the millennia of farming were set up many times - involuntarily, of course (it was not possible to plow, there was no one to harvest, and so on). And if this led to positive rather than negative results, would our ancestors really not have noticed this?
Such "natural farming", without plowing, but only with loosening directly for sowing, was practiced by people at the dawn of civilization, when Agriculture basically. Only, obviously, plowing turned out to be more productive ... otherwise, why would they start doing it? From masochism, or what?

Why is the water cycle important in nature?

All water on Earth is in constant motion - circulation. It evaporates from the surface of the ocean and land, replenishing atmospheric moisture. From the atmosphere in the form of rain and snow, water returns to the ocean and to land, while feeding numerous rivers and groundwater. Approximately half of the water of the river is again carried into the seas and oceans, replenishing that part of it that was used up for evaporation. The rainfall enriches the soil with moisture, which is so necessary for fertility. To the water cycle we are so...

I saw pictures, the gaps between the plants are covered with something that looks like small chips, and also pebbles such as fine gravel (?). Who knows what it is, where to get it and how it looks in real life? Helps protect against weeds, retains moisture? Tell me who knows.

Peat, sand, hydrogel: which is better for seeds

bought an empty lot this year. It is necessary to start planting next year, there is no experience. What can be planted?

Discussion

We started planting with greens, ground cucumbers and carrots, beets in small beds. Approximately two acres was enough. Plus bushes (5) and two cherries and apple trees, a pear.
The first time they plowed all over with a tractor, they didn’t like it, but only he took the virgin land. Before winter, hay manure was transported around the site, four years later, and who knows how much manure the earth is old, tender and loose, even I can dig with a shovel.
If strength remains, then planting strawberries, victoria, or whatever you like, not everyone will be in the first year.

to begin with - pour a hurricane from weeds (2 weeks before digging). mark the places for planting fruit bushes and trees - usually on high parts plot. mark the paths and the landing site of the house. or UFO. do not forget the parking lot. and only then - to dig up roughly - with a revolution of the turf plates. in the spring - that's right, potatoes, and to saturate the soil with everything useful - oats. or rye. with a wide gesture of the sower from O. Bender. ridges - across the slope.

There is a river at 25-30 m from the bathhouse. I need a pump and I don’t know which one is better, a submersible one, but it must be cleaned every evening, or put in a bathhouse, but they say that there are some troubles with it.

Discussion

Podolsky Dozhileks. If not for drinking - just right. powerful and most importantly - long-lived in very aggressive environments. 3600r from the factory - the most low-power in the line.

We have the Kid hanging, 150 m from the barrel-pool to the river, a hose is laid and electrical wire. For watering-washing-pool is excellent. But we have a height of 10 m in front, a house on a mountain, a river under a mountain. We hang the pump in May and remove it in September, the neighbors also have the Kid hanging on the river - we tie it on a string and a stick :) Not submersible, the ground Gardena could not raise water up to us, so we use it around the site.
Even earlier there was a gasoline pump, but they were tortured to carry it to the river.

Garden in the kitchen.

This post will be close, first of all, to all the fans and students of the magnificent master Jamie Oliver. Everyone who, like me, follows his work, his new books and updates on the site and in in social networks. I really love his TV programs, especially "Done in 30 minutes". It's amazing how you can use everyday products for so much a short time prepare a complete lunch menu. At the same time, Jamie's simplicity is impressive! His childlike innocence...

Discussion

Your rack is unreal. Well, it is not clear why so much land should be kept at home. I usually plant two bowls of basil-oregano and I have enough for the whole summer. The basil has already risen, by the way.

On my window, mint and parsley grow beautifully in the summer. Dill, surprisingly, grows, but does NOT smell at all. Either he needs pollination, or something, but here is grass-grass.
Such a waterfall of greenery is generally unrealistic to grow in ordinary apartment. Only if on special substrate and with round-the-clock illumination.

Vegetable beds- change the configuration.

It turns out that starlings can also be fed

If spring is not in a hurry for you, the ground is covered with snow, and the starlings have already arrived, you can help them by feeding them with finely chopped boiled meat or sausage. Not being able to get to the insects under the snow, they will be happy with this as well. So said some ornithologist on TV.

"Russian garden - nk": the best possible

Today, Russian Ogorod-NK is the largest company in the world in terms of seed production. The holding carries out the whole range of seed-growing works: selection and selection, seed production, their cleaning, packaging and sale in the professional and amateur markets. More than 1200 items The company "Russian Ogorod-NK" offers an extensive selection of seeds and planting materials vegetables, flowers, lawns. Our range is able to satisfy not only amateurs, but also the most advanced...

We have a plot. A new one, only the roads-light were made and the lands were marked out. There is no money for the arrangement yet, maybe in 3 years we will master it. So I think, maybe some apple-pears to plant - they will just grow up? But the maximum that I can do there is to come 3-4 times during the summer. Will they survive under such conditions? Well, in the spring and autumn I can come again .. Or should I not bother? Or maybe something else can be planted in advance? (the plot is large - plant as much as you like)

Discussion

Necessarily!!! plant fruit trees(apple trees 4-6pcs, plums 3-4pcs) and currants 3-5pcs. You can plant 2-3-year-old trees (these are just thin twigs and not expensive), just in 3-4 years they will become larger, then it will be possible to form, or maybe not at all. And the currant during this time will also grow and bear fruit. And if during the summer you come 3-4 times, but in spring and autumn, 1 time - that's enough. Plant in early spring There will definitely be rain in the spring. Over the summer they will settle down. M.b. Some will die, but not all. Good luck!

lawn grass or bent grass - and cut 3-4 times per season.
trees and shrubs can be planted, but may die in the heat.
if only "at random"

Girls, I need your advice. We recently got a site. We spent our first summer there last year. There is a small garden, but everything grew poorly, partly of course due to the great heat, but not only this reason, I'm sure. According to inaccurate information, earlier the owners of the land did not fertilize it with anything. What can and should be done in the spring with the earth so that the crop grows well? The land itself is good, black soil. There is compost heap, but not much. Not enough for the whole garden. Can you fertilize the soil? If yes, then...

I have a lot of car, I think 1 cube per eye, maximum two. Neighbors don't need... where can you get that much? I already thought, maybe I can pick it up with / export, right behind the Moscow Ring Road (Kosino). Can you point? :)

please tell me where to buy good land(for beds)? Direction: Leningradka, Dmitrovka or Rogochevka

I'm going to order a land car for the dacha on the weekend .... How much does it cost now?

We dug a 4x4 pond in och. low place. We always have water in this corner and at the neighbors. We dug grooves around the site so that all the rainwater from the site would drain into the pond. After 2 years, this pond became 6x6 ... and I'm afraid that this is not the limit. We are thinking about how to strengthen the coast so that they do not crawl further. And yet - when we dug it, water immediately began to appear - there was a stream - as if an underground source beats. Maybe someone knows what is better to do in our case ... We have fish and water raspberries in the pond)

Discussion

Ours is very similar. Also a pond in a low place, and even a stream flows nearby. And also in one place it collapsed heavily for two years. Reinforced with metal fittings and large stones. First, they cut the earth in layers, like steps, then these steps were strengthened. And all over the edge planted large plants with rhizomes that can hold the ground.

Not only is there ground water close, you also dug grooves to it, of course it will expand. You can lay the banks with reinforcing mesh, you can drive them in with old pipes, you can iron sheets, you can cover them with turf and stones, you can even line them with logs, you can cement, you can just lay them with stones.
Can I lay this shore with a black film and overthrow the stones

Throughout the site, there are groove paths left over from the beds. We have been thinking for two seasons what is better to do with them ... Just dig and level? I'm afraid that local workers will not make it possible to sow the lawn. Land to bring and level? I don't like what kind of land people in the district are bringing. Either some kind of clay from nowhere, or peat, which is smeared on the fingers like fuel oil, under the guise of black earth ... Tell me, is it really possible to find good land in the Moscow region? Just don't ask me what I...

I ask for help "experienced". There is an uncultivated low area, about three acres of water is standing even in summer. We found a construction site 15 km from the site (the area of ​​​​the city of Stupino, Moscow Region). One of these days we will go to negotiate with the builders so that the soil from the pit will be brought to us. Actually the question is: How much can it cost - that is, within what "fork" to bargain with the builders? And with whom to negotiate - with the foreman or with the carriers? Thanks in advance to everyone who will respond.

Large seeds (zucchini, beans, peas, pumpkin) are sown in dug holes of 2-3 grains, then weak plants are removed, leaving only one. Most of these crops are heat-loving, they are planted at a great depth: 3-4 cm on heavy soils or 5-6 cm on light soils. After sowing, it is better to compact the soil a little, slightly pressing down on top with a shovel so that the seeds are better pressed to the ground. But, if the bed is heavily flooded with rain before germination, tamping can only do harm: it will be difficult for plants to break through a hard earthen crust. The subtleties of working with seedlings Since the conditions of protected and open ground differ sharply, then the "coddled" seedlings in the home climate are not adapted to survival in insecurity ...
... There are already developed symbioses: carrots and onions protect each other from carrot and onion flies, and in the neighborhood of cabbage and celery, the latter repels whites. Cucumbers, dill, basil, tomatoes, radishes are good to sow where zucchini and zucchini will be later. And further. Even in the tiniest garden, you need to try to allocate a little space for the baby's "own" garden and teach him how to care for the future harvest. Let the most grow on it unpretentious cultures like radishes, zucchini or lettuce - it will be interesting for a child to water and weed their green pets. In addition, children are usually very proud of their gardening success and enjoy eating the vegetables that they have grown themselves. Time to fertilize? A few words about plant nutrition, b...

Discussion

I also have clay. In addition to what has already been listed, I always plant a decent area of ​​peas in the garden, then I dig this area, together with the husks and tops, in the fall.
We transport all heaps from moles to beds and flower beds.
While cleaning the ponds with this water, we water everything that is possible (plants love marsh water) Soprapel is also there.
When developing a new site, I first cover it with cardboard, film, plywood or old slate (what is at hand) so that the vegetation rots, and then the weed roots are easily removed, and the fertile layer remains.
Well, we collect all the green mass of both weeds and vegetable waste in heaps, cover them with foil or plant pumpkins on these heaps. And after 2-3 years, these heaps also turn into earth.

Avrorik told you correctly - you need to add EVERYTHING. Remember, in the 5th grade, they did experiments on what the soil consists of? From clay, sand and borders. So add sand and organic matter (peat, humus, sapropel, manure).
Very cheap but long way out personal experience. Sow oats and dig. You can dig green, you can wait for ripening, harvest (the grains break off easily if you pass the ear through your fingers) and dig up the straw. In the second case, it will turn out quite cheaply, because the seed will be needed only for the first time. You can sow 2-3 times a year (to ripen, of course, only the first sowing will have time). In 5 years you won't recognize your clay.

My garden is located in a swampy area and regularly gets heavily flooded in the spring. This most negatively affects the quality of the soil - the nutrients are gradually washed out of it, it is strongly compacted and does not dry out until the end of May. When buying soil for the site, I had to “walk” through almost all possible rakes, so in this article I decided to consider the main mistakes that gardeners and gardeners make when purchasing soil for the site.

The choice of soil of the wrong composition

When choosing the composition of the purchased soil mixture, two factors must be considered: initial state of the soil on the site (the level of its fertility + mechanical composition) and kinds cultivated plants that you plan to cultivate on your land (some vegetable and ornamental crops there may be diametrically opposed requirements not only to the structure of the soil, but also to the quantity and ratio of the main nutrients contained in it).

For example, to improve heavy soil containing a large percentage of clay, a mixture consisting of high-quality grassroots peat, coarse sand and floodplain soil in a ratio of 3:4:2 is best suited. Of course, most often the choice of soil mixtures on the market is limited and comes down to two or three options:

1. Peat mixtures, which are a mixture of fertile soil and peat in different proportions. They are usually purchased for a lawn and for site planning.
2. Chernozems used mainly as a nutrient additive to the main soil mixture (usually no more than 10% of its volume).
3. Soil mixtures, which may include, in addition to peat and vegetable soil, also humus, mineral fertilizers, sand and even compost. Such mixtures are usually offered by large specialized companies and they are not cheap. But they usually do not contain garbage, have optimal moisture and air capacity and undergo strict environmental control.

The general rule is - choose the soil in which the amount of peat does not exceed 30%.

Buying from unreliable suppliers

If you are not sure about the honesty of the seller, then it is better to play it safe and purchase soil from large well-known firms who value their reputation in the market and will not put a pig in a poke for you.

Buying soil from private traders cheaply, with a good combination of circumstances, you will receive waste soil from industrial greenhouses, on which even ordinary parsley will not grow. And in the worst case, you will get land from sedimentation tanks, “rich” in compounds of mercury, lead, cadmium, copper and even arsenic. For such savings, you can pay with the health of yourself and your loved ones.

I had the experience of buying such soil: they brought us the upper layer of virgin soil cut from the meadow. The soil was used to backfill the foundation from the demolished country house and to raise the ground level to small area in the other place. Already next spring, we realized what a mistake we had made - the entire site was covered with perennial weeds, which we had to deal with the whole next season.

But if you still decide to buy the soil from the machine, then at least carry out its minimum check:

1. With a wooden stake with a pointed end, poke the soil in different places. Does the stick easily pierce the soil mixture? So, there is almost no clay in it. If you cannot push a stick even 10 centimeters, then there is a lot of clay or sand in the land offered to you.
2. Perform a soil acidity test using the Soil Control RBC kit (available at any gardening store).
3. Make a simple test for the mechanical composition of the soil, described in.
4. Take an empty liter jar, pour soil into it, fill it with clean water and mix thoroughly. Wait for the soil to precipitate, consisting of a layer of clay and sand. If we conventionally take the height of the formed column as 100%, we can easily estimate how much sand is in the soil mixture, and how many other components.

But chemical composition purchased soil and its environmental safety can only be determined in a specialized laboratory.

Purchase of black soil

Acquiring black soil to improve the quality of the soil on the site is an expensive and pointless exercise. And that's why.

Firstly, in our climate, chernozem very quickly loses all its positive characteristics for which he was bought. And the whole thing is that chernozem is formed only if the moisture coefficient in a given area does not exceed one, that is, the earth evaporates more moisture than is poured onto it along with precipitation. In most of the territory of Russia, this coefficient is higher than one, therefore, after several heavy rains, the chernozem loses all its advantages, compacts and becomes overgrown with a hard crust.

Secondly, REAL chernozem cannot be cheap if the nearest chernozem zone is located at a distance of hundreds of kilometers from your site. The cost of such soil does not only consist of the price of its loading and unloading, it also includes all kinds of transport and overhead costs, including the cost of gasoline.

Thirdly, often under the guise of chernozem, a mixture of grassroots peat and sapropel is sold. Such a mixture outwardly resembles black soil, but it is less fertile and also tends to acidify the soil on the site.

Buying too little land

This is also one of the most common mistakes made when purchasing land for a plot.

For example, if your goal is to increase the soil level in a six acre medium loamy soil area by only 4 to 5 centimeters, then you will need at least 30 cubic meters soil, that is, you will need to bring to the site at least 2-3 (!) trucks of land(the capacity of a truck varies from 10 to 15 cubic meters of soil). In our area, one car of fertile land (I note that it is land of unverified quality, and not humus, or even black soil) costs from 5,000 rubles. And if you take a better one, and even with all the "papers", you will have to fork out for all 10,000 rubles.

It seems to me that the best way out of this situation is to equip the garden with stationary beds and fill them with high-quality soil mixture purchased from large companies with a good reputation. Alternatively, you can also purchase sapropel, sand, horse (cow humus) and peat and make the mixture yourself (if you have the time and knowledge).

Thus, the order of your actions when buying soil for the site should be as follows:

1. Determine the mechanical and nutritional composition of the soil in your area, and also think in advance what crops you are going to grow on it.
2. Select major supplier who is ready to provide you complete list certificates and analyzes of the soil mixture sold by him.
3. Calculate how many cubic meters of soil you need for your purposes (improving fertility or raising the ground level).

By the way, you can read about how to ennoble clay soil.

I also advise you to watch a short video on the same topic.