Sheathing the walls with drywall. Plasterboard wall cladding

Drywall sheets allow you to level the walls, skillfully hiding any irregularities, create a variety of protrusions and recesses, etc. The material is characterized by sufficient strength, it is easy to process and use, you can install such sheets without any problems.

Having understood the basic principles, you can independently align the walls of your house or, for example, make a new partition. It is only necessary to decide on the required form of the finished result and choose the optimal method for fixing the sheets.

There are two main attachment methods drywall sheets, namely:

• installation on a pre-built frame;
• frameless fastening on the adhesive composition.

In some situations, for best results, the above methods are used in combination.

The base is assembled from a special plasterboard profile. At the end, it remains only to screw the sheets to the frame with screws and perform the required finishing work. frame technology is that the total thickness of the finished skin will be more than 4-5 cm, i.e. effective area rooms will be noticeably smaller.

Choose the appropriate fastening method. I want to fix the sheets as securely as possible - make a frame. It is important to keep the existing square - use the glue-based method.

Preparing walls for plasterboarding

Sheathing walls with drywall requires several preparatory steps.

It is highly recommended to get rid of the old wall covering before attaching the frame or gluing the sheets. Carefully remove it to the ground. Additionally, dismantling the old finish will free up a few centimeters that can be used for new skin, saving as much free space as possible.

This operation is not mandatory, but experts strongly recommend it. Additionally, the surface is treated with an antiseptic preparation.

The third stage is preliminary marking. To begin with, it will be enough to mark the boundaries above the floor and under the ceiling, from which it will begin and where it will end. plasterboard walls. Traditionally, a distance of 50 mm is postponed.

Frame Construction Guide

The first stage is the preparation of materials. A galvanized profile is used to assemble the frame for drywall. On the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls, the so-called. UD profile. Dowels are used to fix such profiles.

The second stage is the installation of jumpers. After the starting profiles are fixed, proceed with the installation of vertical jumpers. For this, the so-called. CD profile. It is on him that the drywall will rely. The edges of the profile should “look” at the wall, with the wide side into the room. Fasten with self-tapping screws designed specifically for galvanized profiles.

Fasten the first main profile near the side wall. Fasten the following in 60 cm increments. this case the distance must be set aside from the center of the installed profiles, and not from their edges. Under the next wall, the CD profile must also be fixed closely, regardless of the distance between it and the previous profile.

The third stage is strengthening the fasteners. To make the fixing of the profiles more reliable, it is highly recommended to use perforated hangers. These products have the form of galvanized strips with perforated ends. Such clamps need to be shaped like the letter “P” and fixed with their middles to the wall, placing them under each profile installed vertically. At the edges of the element there are "ears". Attach them to your profile. Check the evenness of the placement of all elements using a level and, if necessary, make adjustments.

If the height of the wall exceeds the length of one sheet of drywall (standard 2.5 m), add the missing piece of material from below or above. At the joints, install jumpers from the CD profile you already know.

Installation of sheets and completion of work

The frame is ready, and you can safely proceed to the main work. It is also carried out in several stages and requires maximum care and responsibility from the master.

The first stage is the installation of drywall sheets. The material, as already noted, is attached to the main profiles. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws 3.5 cm long, made of hardened metal. It is more convenient, better and faster than most self-tapping screws to be screwed in with an electric screwdriver. Tighten until the fastener heads are flush with the drywall. Fasteners are twisted in increments of 100-150 mm in the center of the sheet and along its perimeter. Usually, the sheets initially have a center line, which makes installation easier.

The second step is filling in the gaps. In case one sheet of material is not enough to fill all the available space, take new leaf and cut out pieces of the desired size. Drywall is remarkably cut with an ordinary construction knife. It is enough to simply cut the paper of the drywall sheet along the cut line and gently break the element, after which the same way cut the paper on the reverse side. Fix the rest and proceed to the final finish.

The third stage is the finishing of the plasterboard structure. First you need to seal the seams. The sealing is carried out using a special self-adhesive mesh. The laid mesh must be puttied. Usually enough starting putty. It will allow you to get the most even surface.

To carry out further work, you need to decide what material will be used as a topcoat. For example, in the case of laying tiles or other opaque thick material, you should simply putty the joints of adjacent sheets, wait until the putty dries and move on to the finish lining. Putty is applied to drywall with a layer of about 1.5-2 mm, there is no need for a thicker coating.

Sand the surface with a sandpaper, and then treat the walls with a primer. If further painting is planned, the surface should be as smooth and even as possible. If there are irregularities, apply a new layer of putty, sand it and check the surface for irregularities. Repeat the above procedures if necessary.

If drywall walls are already made in small room, the arrangement of the frame can become an unaffordable luxury, because. because of it, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is reduced by several square meters. In such a situation, the best option is to attach the sheets to the base with glue.

The first step is surface preparation. It is highly recommended to level the surface. Any kind of holes, bulges and similar defects will impair the adhesion of the sheets to the base. Use putty for leveling. After the putty has dried, prime the base.

Cut drywall into sheets right size. Above the floor and under the ceiling, leave gaps about 5 cm wide.

The third stage is the preparation of mounting holes. Drill holes in the wall to place the dowels. Fasteners must be screwed in so that their caps form a single plane with the base.

The fourth stage is the preparation of the adhesive solution. Glue is prepared from a dry mixture specially designed for such work and clean water. Read the manufacturer's instructions. It contains a recipe for your particular glue, because. for different mixtures, the procedure for preparing the solution may vary. Consistency ready mix it will look like paste. The glue dries very quickly, so it is strongly recommended to prepare it in small portions and immediately before starting work. The specific drying time is also indicated in the instructions.

The fifth stage is gluing sheets. Before attaching the sheets, the base must be thoroughly cleaned of any dirt and dust, because. dirt will reduce adhesion to the adhesive. Apply adhesive to the back of the sheets. Along the center line and edges of the sheet, the glue is applied in longitudinal strips, along the rest of the plane - in heaps. Such heaps should be made at most every 25-30 cm. It is not recommended to level the heaps into a continuous layer, because. this will lead to a significant increase in the consumption of the solution, and will also not allow the entire sheet area to be properly docked to the wall.

Place the drywall on the subfloor and press evenly. If necessary, you can compact the fixation with a rubber mallet. In this case, you must first apply to the sheet wooden block and knock with a hammer already on it, otherwise you can punch holes in the coating.

Wait for the glue to harden. Information about the drying time must be given in the instructions. Please read this manual carefully before starting work and keep it until completion. Only after the glue has completely dried can you proceed to the next steps.

In this case, the already familiar self-adhesive tape is also used. Glue the tape to the seams and putty the joints so that they are at the same level with the main surface. Alignment is carried out using the starting putty.

Finishing putty is used only when necessary, for example, when drywall is being prepared for painting. In the end, it remains only to finish the walls with the selected coating.

Thus, drywall allows you to get perfectly smooth and smooth walls without extra costs time and money costs. Choose the method of fixing the sheets that is best for your case and proceed with the installation. Follow the instructions and do not forget the recommendations received.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself wall sheathing with drywall

Interior decoration rooms almost always begins with the alignment of the walls. This can be done in several ways, the most convenient of which is plasterboard sheathing. This material is easy to cut and fasten, does not require special skills and gives a perfectly flat surface. Due to the ease of installation, do-it-yourself wall cladding with drywall will not take much time and will save a little.

The room is freed from bulky items, everything superfluous is removed from the wall, wiring and communications are removed. The cladding covers all irregularities and defects, so it is not necessary to level the walls, it is enough to check their integrity. Wallpaper or peeling paint must be removed, all cracks and cracks should be sealed with putty. After that, the surface is cleaned of dust and primed.

For wall cladding you will need:

Step 1. Installing guide profiles

The floor along the walls should be flat and clean. Stepping back from the wall a few centimeters, draw a marking line for the guide profile. If all the walls in the room are sheathed, the markings are carried out parallel to each wall and connected at an angle of 90 degrees. Now a guide profile is applied along the line and screwed to the floor with screws. Holes for dowels are pre-drilled in the concrete screed.

The length of one profile is 3 m; for building use metal connectors and self-tapping screws 9.5 mm long. For corner connection the end of the profile is cut on both sides, the sides are bent and screwed with self-tapping screws to the side edge of the second profile.

Further, vertical guides are installed on the sides of the wall: the lower ends of the profiles are inserted into the floor profile, leveled vertically with a plumb line and screwed with self-tapping screws at the base and to the ceiling. The ends of the ceiling guide are inserted into the right and left wall profiles, aligned with the floor profile and screwed.

Step 2. Installation of supporting profiles

To fix the supporting profiles, you need to make markings on the wall: strictly vertical lines are drawn from the ceiling to the floor every 40 or 60 cm. U-shaped brackets are screwed to the wall along the markings with an interval of 60 cm in height. The brackets are fixed to a wooden wall with self-tapping screws, to a concrete or brick wall using dowel-nails. Now the carrier profiles are inserted into the lower and upper guides, the markings are set parallel and screwed on both sides with 3.5x9.5 mm self-tapping screws. Finally, each profile is reinforced vertically with brackets.

Step 3. Laying communications

After installing the frame between the profiles, the wiring is fixed, the communication pipes are laid. Both wires and pipes should not protrude beyond the guides along the entire plane. To fix communications to the wall surface, special clamps and brackets are used. Special attention you need to pay attention to the insulation of wires and sealing of pipe joints so that you do not have to dismantle the drywall to repair damage.

Step 4. Wall insulation

If the outer walls are insulated, you can do without internal thermal insulation, leaving free space between drywall and wall. But even in this case, a layer of insulation under the skin will not be superfluous: such materials have high soundproofing and properties. Before laying, the materials are cut into strips, the width of which is 2-3 cm greater than the distance between the profiles. Lay the insulation as tightly as possible so that gaps do not form.

Step 5. Sheathing the frame

Sheathing the frame with drywall

Drywall sheets are cut out sequentially. To cut the material evenly, you need to draw a line on the surface of the sheet and cut it with a sharp knife. Then the sheet is broken along the markup and cut through on the other side.

So, the skin starts from the corner:

take the first sheet and apply to the carrier profile;

align the material along the edges and screw it with self-tapping screws 25 mm long to the racks every 30 cm;

the next sheet is screwed side by side, aligning the joints on the carrier profile;

for the top row, the first sheet is cut by 40 or 60 cm so that the vertical seams move, since more than three fragments cannot be joined at one point;

before installing drywall, holes for communications are cut in the sheet at the exit points of the pipeline.

The heads of the self-tapping screws should go deeper into the skin by no more than 2 mm; also, they must not be allowed to protrude above the surface. To control the depth of immersion of self-tapping screws, it is recommended to use a bit with a limiter.

Step 6 Seam Sealing

Since drywall sheets have truncated or rounded edges, when joining adjacent fragments, grooves are necessarily formed at the seams. To close them, you will need putty, a spatula and a reinforcing tape - sickle. The starting putty is kneaded, a piece of sickle of the appropriate length is cut off, the putty mixture is applied to the seam and the sickle is applied on top. Carefully straightening the tape in the center of the joint, putty is applied again and carefully distributed with a spatula.

The putty layer should not be too thick, it is better to apply several layers until the seam is completely level with the drywall surface. When the putty dries, the joints are treated with the finest sandpaper. Qualitatively sealed seams do not have recesses and cracks and look like even white stripes on a gray wall background.

Joints on the cladding outside corners closed with perforated corner profiles. First, a solution is applied to the corner with a spatula, it is densely distributed in height, and then an aluminum corner is applied and pressed into the putty. Between themselves, the corners are overlapped by 5-7 cm. The putty mixture is again applied from above and a corner is formed with a spatula. Excess solution is immediately removed, and after drying, the surface is sanded with sandpaper.

Step 7. Finishing

To remove the smallest defects, drywall is covered with a thin layer finishing putty. To do this, you need a wide metal spatula. They start from the edge of the wall: a spatula with a typed solution is placed against the wall at an angle of 10 degrees, pressed from below and with a sharp movement is led up. The more accurate and more even movement spatula, the smoother the putty will lie. If it doesn’t work out right away, you can try on a section of the wall. It is not necessary to press hard, otherwise scratches will appear on the surface, it is also impossible to release the spatula during movement in order to avoid the formation of sagging.

If the walls are planned to be painted, it is necessary to apply 2 layers of putty, then the seams will not show through the paint. After grinding, the surface is primed, and then the walls can be painted, wallpapered or covered with decorative plaster.

Video - Editing Secrets

Frameless wall cladding

There is another option for fixing drywall sheets - without the use of profiles. This method is suitable if:

• the height of the wall does not exceed 2.5 m;
• vertical deviation no more than 2 cm;
• walls do not need insulation;
• the room is dry and not subject to sudden changes in temperature.

Of course, it is impossible to glue drywall on wallpaper, decorative plaster or peeling paint, otherwise the skin will not last long.

If all conditions meet the requirements, you can start working.

Step 1. Preparing the walls

The concrete or wooden base is cleaned of dust, oil stains, and cracks are sealed. If the walls are painted and the paint is very strong, you do not need to remove it, it is enough to make small vertical and horizontal notches every 30 cm. Next, the surface is coated with a primer and dried.

Step 2. Fastening communications

Low-voltage wiring can be fixed directly on the surface, but for power electrical cables and communication pipes must be punched in the wall of the strobe. After laying the wires and pipes, the strobes are closed with special strips and the seams are sealed with putty.

Step 3. Cutting sheets

The lower edge of the sheathing should be 1-1.5 cm above the floor surface. If the height of the wall corresponds to the height of the drywall, the sheets are cut along the lower edge with a hacksaw. Further, if necessary, cut holes for switches, sockets, pipe outlets.

Step 4. Fixing drywall

According to the instructions, glue is diluted, applied with a notched trowel on the back of the sheet with a wide strip along the perimeter and two stripes in the center. Having placed mounting wedges from below, drywall is applied to the wall, leveled and carefully pressed. Using a level or a long ruler, check the sheet vertically and horizontally, if necessary, knocking with a rubber mallet. In the same way, an adjacent sheet is installed, trying to join it with the previous one as tightly as possible.

Step 5 Seam Sealing

Thin seams with a width of less than 4 mm are sealed with one putty; for wide seams, a sickle is additionally used. You can fill the joints with glue, removing excess with a clean cloth. The puttied areas must be sanded with fine sandpaper, and then cleaned of dust. The gap between the floor and drywall is best filled with waterproof sealant.

Now it remains to level the surface with a finishing putty, sand it and wipe it from dust. After priming, the walls can be painted, whitewashed or wallpapered - as you like.

Video - Do-it-yourself wall cladding with drywall

The fact that the hl finish is best option leveling any surface, no one doubts. But in the process of repair, many questions arise: what method of cladding to choose, how to properly sheathe the walls with drywall? The material below will help you understand the nuances of this stage of repair and give answers to some important questions.

Choice of finish

Drywall is unique building material for wall cladding due to a number of qualities:

• availability;
• with the help of hl you can get an ideal surface;
• environmental friendliness;
• impact resistance external factors(moisture resistant and fire resistant hl);
• ease of installation, since even a novice master can sheathe a wall with drywall on his own;
• ease of use;
• the possibility of spot repairs with the least cost of money and time.

1 - GKL; 2 - GKLO; 3 - GKLV; 4 - GKLVO

In addition, sound insulation and communications can be placed in the space between the sheets of material and the ceiling. It is allowed to cover such a wall with any kind of decorative finish: tiles, paint, wallpaper. It also allows you to design and manufacture built-in niches and shelves directly on the wall, which is an indisputable plus in small apartments.

Before you sheathe the wall with drywall, you should decide on the installation method. The choice of cladding option depends on the material of stationary floors and the operating conditions of the future structure. V modern houses and apartments walls are usually of three types:

• reinforced concrete;
• brick;
• wooden (found mainly in country houses).

On any of these surfaces, HL sheets can be either glued or installed on a frame, wooden or metal. The main criterion that will affect the choice of sheathing method will be the size of defects and irregularities on the floor surface. If the flaws do not exceed 20 mm, then you can glue the hl on putty or special glue. In other cases, it is more reliable to use a frame. Now let's talk about how you can sheathe the walls with drywall yourself and what you need for this.

1 - difference up to 20mm; 2 - difference more than 20mm

Comparative characteristics of wall cladding methods with drywall

Each mounting option has its pros and cons. Therefore, before starting work, it is worth evaluating them as objectively as possible.

1. Frame installation.

Advantages:

• mechanical strength and reliability of the structure;
• the possibility of installing soundproofing and concealing communications;
• installation on any surface (even very uneven);
• this design will withstand the weight of the tile, so it can be safely used in the bathroom or in the kitchen.

Flaws:

• the complexity of the installation, since it is necessary to assemble the frame with your own hands;
• additional costs for numerous components;
• the design takes up a lot of space, which is important for small rooms.

You can solve the first problem by watching a video on how to sheathe walls with drywall using a frame. Financial expenses appropriate to reduce self-fulfillment all work, without the involvement of masters. But it’s better not to save on materials and use proven “consumables” of well-known foreign or domestic companies.

Installation method on wooden frame has the same advantages and disadvantages as the previous method. But there is one caveat - the tree tolerates moisture worse, so it is undesirable to use it in the bathroom. But if there is any doubt about how and with what to sheathe wooden walls, then better than drywall with a wooden frame, there is no option.

1. Frameless installation.

Advantages:

• ease of installation;
• low costs;
• compactness.

Flaws:

• lower strength compared to the frame structure;
• the impossibility of installation in the presence of significant defects and irregularities of the wall;
• ceramic tiles cannot be laid on glued hl sheets;
• between the drywall and the wall there is no space for soundproofing material.

You can decide how to sheathe the walls with drywall sheets, taking into account all the above nuances, the size of the room, financial capabilities and operating conditions. In any case, such work is within the power of almost everyone, even a not very experienced repairman.

List of required materials for cladding

After the cladding method is chosen, you can go to the hardware store for essential tool and consumables. If the walls need to be sheathed with drywall using a frame (in the presence of significant surface irregularities), then it is worth purchasing:

• ceiling profiles;
• guide profiles;
• direct suspension;
• profile extensions;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels;
• connectors;
• construction knife;
• metal scissors;
• perforator;
• roulette;
• pencil or marker;
• screwdriver;
• level (preferably laser);
• finishing materials (serpyanka, putty, primer).

List of accessories for adhesive mounting:

• drywall sheets;
• tape for seams;
• putty;
• finishing putty;
• primer;
• glue "Perlfix";
• knife for cutting hl;
• measuring tool;
• pencil.

We should not forget about the tools without which finishing becomes impossible: spatulas various sizes, brushes, rollers, sandpaper, containers for kneading putty.

Features of mounting on the frame

Now let's figure out how to properly sheathe a wall with drywall using a metal frame. In the presence of significant defects, it is advisable to use a crate with the help of ceiling and guide profiles.

To begin with, markup is done using a level. At this stage, it is important to correctly find the most protruding point of the wall and determine the size of the entire structure. Marks are transferred to adjacent walls, floor and ceiling and installation begins.

The guide profiles are fastened with dowels in increments of about 1 m, and the ceiling profiles are installed on straight hangers at a distance of up to 150 cm. The structure must be even, and all joints must be well fixed.

After the base is ready, they proceed to the installation of sound insulation and the laying of communications. After that, drywall is cut, screwed onto self-tapping screws and finished. The resulting smooth and even surface is suitable for any decorative coating. Its choice depends on the purpose of the room: tile fit for the bathroom and kitchen, wallpaper for the living room and bedroom, and paint is quite appropriate in the hallway or dining room.

In addition to the metal profile, sometimes they use wooden slats. How to sheathe walls with plasterboard sheets in this case? The size of the rails should be 50x30 mm, installation is carried out using screws or dowels at a distance of about 10 cm. It is advisable to use such designs on wooden floors or for walls with crumbling plaster.

How to glue drywall on walls?

Glue for the installation of drywall is used only for walls with a height of not more than 3 meters and in the presence of defects ranging in size from 4 to 20 mm. If the size of the irregularities is less than this figure, then only gypsum putty can be used, if more - additional strips of HL in the form of a base or a full-fledged frame.

Now a few words about how to sheathe the walls with drywall using glue yourself. First, it is important to choose a quality glue. For example, Perlfix (Knauf) is suitable. Secondly, you should carefully prepare the surface and observe temperature regime during installation (at least 10 degrees). And the last thing: do not prepare the glue in advance. It cures within 10 minutes, so it must be stirred immediately before application.

The adhesive mass is applied to the reverse side of the sheet in strips or heaps of medium size. After that, the plate is pressed against the wall and the excess substance that has come out is removed. Before the glue completely hardens, you can correct the position of the sheet, if necessary.

As a result of all the above facts, the following conclusion can be drawn: the choice of installation method depends very much on the quality of the initial surface. Therefore, irregularities must be carefully measured and only then drafted a future design. The question arises, is it possible to install drywall on the frame without removing the old finish (for example, wallpaper)?

Finishing walls with drywall is an extremely important process in the construction business. This method of leveling the surface is considered one of the easiest and at the same time quite reliable. Drywall is durable and able to provide good term operation. In this article, we will consider how to finish the walls with drywall with our own hands, and also tell you the procedure for working in wooden house.

Types of wall decoration

There are two processing methods using drywall. This is a method with and without frame installation. Both are quite often used in the construction business. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Frameless way

This method is simple and fast enough. In this case, the installation of drywall is done with glue. But, do not forget that for such work it is necessary to use a special glue for drywall sheets. Fortunately, this one is quite common and can be found at any hardware store.

For installation, the first step is to prepare the walls. All dirt and dust must be removed from them, and also treated with a primer. You will also need to check the wall for defects and curvature.

If the unevenness of the wall does not exceed seven millimeters, then gluing occurs in the usual way. Glue is applied to the material and smeared over the entire plane. If the curvature is large, then the glue must be applied in the form of cakes at a certain interval. But, when the irregularities exceed twenty millimeters, we recommend that you first level the wall using putty, and only then glue the drywall.

Wall pasting

After cleaning and checking for irregularities, the wall is treated with a primer. Priming helps to increase the adhesion of the surface, and also protects the wall from the formation of mold and fungus. After, we wait until the primer is completely dry, and only then it will be possible to continue working. The next step is to prepare the adhesive solution. It must be prepared according to the instructions on the package and in no case violate the manufacturer's recommendations.

Recommends not to cook a lot at once, as the glue dries pretty quickly. After thirty minutes, the mixture will harden and cannot be used. We process the section of the wall with glue, on which drywall will subsequently be attached.

Next, the material is laid face down on the floor and is also treated with an adhesive solution over the entire area. For better installation We recommend applying the adhesive with a second layer vertically. Next, the drywall is lifted and applied to the wall. It remains only to align it on the plane by applying building level and a mallet made of wood or rubber.

Advice! We recommend installing small spacers about ten millimeters thick between the floor and the sheet. This will help the material expand with a sharp change in temperature or humidity. As a gasket, you can use the drywall itself.

The installation of the remaining sheets is carried out in the same way. The main thing is to take accurate measurements so that the adjacent sheets become correctly. We recommend paying special attention to the corners. Now let's take a closer look at the installation method with the installation of the frame.

Frame installation method

This method involves laying on the frame. The design can be made of metal or wooden bars. However, please note that the wooden frame must be well dried, otherwise the wood may dry out over time, which will lead to warping. And because of this, cracks or gaps may appear. Therefore, many professionals in the building trade recommend using metal profiles. They have good technical performance and can last for many years. The following photo shows an example of a wooden and metal frame for plasterboard wall cladding.

Frame installation

When choosing metal structure two profiles can be used: rack or guide. The guide profile is used to install the circuit and is attached to the ceiling and floor. They must be perfectly level. First, the profile is mounted to the ceiling, and then, using a plumb line, the installation location on the floor is determined. Next, rack profiles will need to be inserted into the guide profiles. They will need to be connected with screws. The interval between the uprights should be approximately fifty millimeters.

In order for the frame to be firmly installed, the profiles are usually attached to suspensions, the installation of which takes place in advance. The suspension installation interval is approximately forty centimeters. The installed frame is visible in the photo below:

Drywall fixing

This is already much easier to install the frame. The main thing is to properly fit the drywall sheet and install it in the right place. For installation, professionals recommend using black self-tapping screws, as they are made of heavy-duty material.

The self-tapping screw is screwed in carefully so as not to deform the drywall. The number of screws will need to be determined in advance.

Wall putty

The final stage of installation will be puttying the wall. In case it was chosen wireframe method, then the first step is to treat the fasteners with a solution and only then the joints between the sheets. For putty, experts use a special tape called sickle. Then the wall is primed and treated with putty until it becomes perfectly smooth.

Finishing a wooden house

Sheathing walls with drywall in a wooden house, although a difficult task, the result is worth it. You will get absolute symmetry and perfectly smooth walls, which for wooden house is a huge advantage. Also, plasterboard sheathing will additionally insulate the walls. After finishing, you can choose any coating for further cladding, be it wallpaper or decorative plaster. Let's look at the procedure for sheathing a wooden house in more detail. The preparation process for a wooden house is visible in the following photo.

Plasterboard sheathing

The first step is to take measurements and cut the sheets. This will require:

• mark with a ruler and pencil;
• sharp construction knife make an incision on the top sheet;
• break the sheet according to the markup;
• bend the sheet at an angle and cut the back side of the drywall;
• on the cut material at the joints at a distance of about 10 millimeters, make markings;
• again make a cut with a construction knife;
• chamfer at an angle of 45 degrees;
• smooth out all irregularities with sandpaper.

Now you can start fixing the drywall. The material is best placed in checkerboard pattern, a small shift is acceptable. Sheets are attached to the screws. Fasteners should be at a distance of approximately 25 centimeters. The closer the screws are, the better.

Finishing

Before proceeding to finishing walls in a wooden house, check the location of the electrical wiring. Since it will be very difficult to disassemble the walls in order to fix everything.

Small grooves are formed at the joints during processing. They need to be filled with plaster and drown a sickle in them. This procedure will protect the coating from the formation of seams and cracks. Then all the recesses above the self-tapping screws are filled with plaster. The final procedure can be considered wallpapering or applying decorative plaster.

If you plan to stick wallpaper, you will need to pre-treat the wall with a primer. In order for the wallpaper to hold as well as possible, we recommend applying an additional layer of glue to the drywall. The next photo shows the result of finishing a wooden house with plasterboard.

Eventually

As you can see, plasterboard walls have a lot of advantages. Such a procedure will allow not only to align the walls, but also to insulate the house. The procedure for decorating walls with your own hands is quite difficult, but if you carefully follow the tips and recommendations, you will succeed. The interior decoration of a wooden house with drywall also allows you to strengthen the walls and protect them from moisture. We recommend watching the following video to see the process of finishing the walls with drywall:

Today, many people face uneven walls in your dwelling. This problem is not uncommon, especially when it comes to wooden building. Fortunately, modern manufacturers offer a variety of options for consumers to choose from. various materials, with which you can make the overlap even and smooth. Such coatings include drywall sheets.

Peculiarities

Currently, drywall is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular and sought-after materials. This is due to its flexibility and affordable price. Such materials are used for wall decoration in private houses and city apartments, where uneven floors are commonplace.

As a rule, the walls in wooden houses have impressive height differences. Therefore, for their design, it is necessary to produce high-quality alignment.

For this you can use different materials(from cheap plywood to GVL panels). Most buyers for such work choose drywall. Installation of such material is quite simple. For all work home master may take a little time. In addition, the installation of GKL sheets will cost users inexpensively. Due to these features, leveling the walls with plasterboard panels in a wooden house can be called the best option.

Drywall is also distinguished by the fact that it can be finished with a variety of decorative materials. It can be paintwork, wallpaper, different types plasters, imitation brickwork, masonry. However, it is worth considering that drywall is a rather fragile material.

In wooden houses, especially if they are built from logs and logs, it is impossible to hang wallpaper or install tiles without preliminary alignment. Drywall in this case is a real lifeline. It has various modifications. Due to this feature, choose suitable coatings it is possible for dry, warm, damp rooms (kitchen or bathroom). This does not mean that moisture-resistant plates are invulnerable, they cannot be wetted with water. At the installation stage, these materials are recommended to be additionally coated with protective compounds.

Pros and cons

Drywall is a durable material that has its strengths and weaknesses.

First, consider what advantages such coatings can boast of:

• First of all, it is necessary to highlight the durability of this finishing material. Quality drywall not subject to decay or destruction. If you treat such a finish with care, it will last for many years without causing any inconvenience.

• Installation of drywall sheets is simple and fast. To do this, it is not at all necessary to turn to teams of finishers, who often ask for a lot of money for their services.
• Such material has a small weight, so it is optimally easy to work with it. It is quite possible to cope with its installation without involving assistants.
• GKL sheets of high quality are environmentally friendly and absolutely safe. They can be installed in a wooden house without worrying about the health of the household. As a rule, these coatings do not contain harmful and dangerous substances, so they can be mounted even in children's rooms.
• According to experts, drywall sheets can regulate the microclimate in the room.
• Such coatings do not cause allergic reactions and do not emit unpleasant odors during operation.

• Such a coating boasts good thermal insulation characteristics. In a wooden house given property especially relevant. With a similar wall decoration in the rooms, warmth and comfort will always remain.
• GKL panels are flexible. Due to this quality, such materials can be used in the design arched structures. The main thing is to choose a coating of suitable markings.
• These materials are fireproof. In the event of a fire on drywall, only upper layer made of cardboard. In addition, special fire-resistant panels are on sale. These advantages are especially relevant in the case of wooden and log buildings, which are fire hazardous.
• Plasterboard can hide unsightly communication systems.
• GKL panels are pliable canvases that can be easily decorative trim. It can be wallpapering, painting them in different ways. paint coatings, tiling or artificial stone.
• This material is vapor permeable, that is, it is breathable.

• Drywall has soundproofing properties, which is especially important for the rest of a modern person.
• GKL coatings are inexpensive. They can afford the buyer with any budget.
• As a result of the installation of such coatings, the walls acquire perfectly flat and smooth surfaces.

In spite of a large number of advantages, drywall has its drawbacks:

• The main disadvantage of GKL sheets is their fragility. To break such material, you do not need to make a lot of effort.
• It is easily damaged and does not withstand heavy loads. You need to be especially careful with this material during installation work. In the event of damage, the panels cannot usually be repaired.

• Although drywall has soundproofing properties, many consumers note that they are quite insignificant. For example, from extra noise and this material will not save the creak in the old house.
• Drywall does not like to come into contact with water. Even special moisture-resistant materials do not last long in conditions high humidity. Because of this feature, the installation of GKL panels is not recommended in the bathroom or in the kitchen.
• Plasterboard sheets are not recommended to be installed directly on timber floors. Such walls can change in volume at high humidity, which can lead to damage to the GCR panels and their detachment from the base. In any case, you will have to make a frame.

Types of drywall

Currently, there are several varieties of drywall that can be used to finish wooden walls in a country or country house. Let's take a closer look at the varieties of this material.

GKL

GKL - simple drywall. As a rule, it is used for finishing household and office spaces where humidity and temperature are always at the optimum level. This material has grey colour and labeling of blue color. In no case should a simple GKL be installed in the kitchen or in the bathroom. In such conditions, it will quickly fail.

GKLO

GKLO is a fire-resistant drywall. It has a high resistance to open flame. This effect is achieved by adding special reinforcing ingredients to the material. This material can be used for wall decoration in industrial premises, in attics and even in ventilation spaces. GKLO also has a gray color. Marking on this material is applied with red paint.

GKLV

To make the material more reliable and durable, it is recommended to cover it with various coatings (for example, waterproof paints or primer).

Such coatings are green color and blue markings.

Drywall may vary in the type of edge. Let's highlight their differences:

• PC- straight edge. Similar materials only suitable for dry installation. They do not require laying joints. As a rule, such coatings are mounted in several layers.
• UK- Refined edge. Such materials are pasted over with reinforcing tape, then puttied.
• ZK- rounded edge. Such types of drywall are used only when using a putty mixture, but without additional reinforcement.
• PLC- semi-circular edge on the front side. This material is not supplemented with a reinforcing tape, but is subsequently puttied.
• PLUH– semi-circular edge, refined on the front side. Such materials require reinforcement and puttying.

Surface preparation

Before proceeding to the installation of drywall sheets on wooden walls, they must be properly prepared. If the house has just been built, you need to wait about six months to move on to finishing work. During this time, the foundation of the building will sit down, and the drywall will not crack. However, houses made of glued beams shrink slightly, it takes less time.

• Before installing the GKL sheets, the walls must be cleaned and freed from the previous coatings, if any.
• Next, the wooden walls should be treated with a special protective compound.
• Insulate all the cracks present on the wooden floors.

• Sand the logs.
• At the preparation stage, it is recommended to draw a drawing of all surfaces that require alignment.

How to sheathe?

wooden walls can be sewn with your own hands.

• Under the bearing guides, you need to take a bar with dimensions of at least 75x25 mm. For the crossbars, details of 50x25 mm are suitable. Keep in mind that the support must match the width of the plasterboard sheets.
• To make the wooden frame stronger and more reliable, it is recommended to install the crossbars more often. As for the support, it should be in the central part of the panel. The crossbars must be placed at the joints of the sheets. Use plastic dowels for fastening.
• For wall cladding inside a wooden house, you can use a metal frame. It is more reliable and strong. Metal supports must be installed with the same pitch and all parts must be checked with a level. For fasteners in this case, self-tapping screws should be used.

• After installation, the battens are laid thermal insulation material, followed by a vapor barrier. Vapor barrier film need to be fixed with the imposition of the material on top of each other.
• Install the frame so that its distance from the ceiling is 3-4 cm, and to the floor - 1 cm.
• When the floor and frame are in log house will be prepared, you can proceed to the installation of GKL sheets.
• Mark the drywall where the vertical rails will be installed.
• Trim the top panel and fold in the cut.
• Turn the sheet over, and then cut the opposite side.

• Mark an indent from the edge of 1 cm.
• Bevel the end edge at a 45 degree angle.
• Treat it with sandpaper.
• Drywall must be fastened to the crate with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver.
• Fasten the sheets with an overlap, install fasteners in increments of no more than 20 cm.

After that, you can proceed to the final finishing of the floors.