Drywall on wooden slats. Installing a wooden frame for drywall, do-it-yourself rules and instructions Partition from a 50x50 bar for drywall

If you are faced with the task of leveling the walls with drywall and you want to solve it by installing drywall, then the use case wooden frame may be the most optimal.
The presence of a wooden frame will allow you to place a sound and heat-insulating layer in the inter-wall space, which will certainly increase the comfort of the room.
True, it is necessary to take into account some important factors related to the specifics of this material.
Of course, from the point of view of ease of operation (a beginner can handle the installation of drywall on a wooden frame), the cheapness of the material, its availability, the wooden frame surpasses most alternative options.
However, it can only be used in rooms with medium or even low humidity. Wood is prone to rapid decay, danger of damage by insects, this material is a fire hazard: therefore, if you want your structure to last for a long time,
must be subjected given material special processing, in the form of impregnation.

Installation of a partition on a wooden frame

In addition, a wooden frame can only be used for simple rectangular structures.
The main difficulty in mounting such a frame may arise if you are dealing with uneven wall. In this case, adjusting the structure in one plane, you will either have to put wedges under the sagging bars, or cut off part of the bar thickness in places where the wall plane protrudes.

Finished wooden cladding frame

But first things first.

First of all, we make a wall sag. To do this, using a system of plumb lines, we determine optimal location the plane in which the sheets of drywall will be located.
It is necessary to ensure that this plane is completely vertical. Next, we mount two vertical bars along the edges of the wall so that the outer side
the bar was strictly in our intended plane. To do this job, you will need an assistant. The bars are attached to the wall with a plastic dowel. To do this, a hole is drilled in the wall, the diameter of which corresponds to
dowel diameter and length. The dowel is carefully hammered into the hole. With this work, there is a certain subtlety: it is practically impossible to drill a hole for a screw in a beam in such a way that it exactly matches the dowel in the wall.

Therefore, they act according to the opposite scenario: they apply the beam to the wall and first drill a hole in the beam for the screw, when the drill forms a through hole in the beam, it marks exactly the place on the wall where
you can already safely drill a hole for the dowel. When all the holes for this bar are drilled, the dowels are driven in, the bar is again applied to the wall and is already firmly screwed with screws.
If you are mounting a massive beam, then you can immediately drill through holes through the beam with a drill, without a drill. True, while doing this you should use screws with large hats.
The distance between the screws should not exceed 50 cm. When two vertical bars are fixed, the rest of the structure is mounted between them.

Laying soundproofing material in the crate space

In this case, simple rules should be followed: the crate should be evenly distributed along the wall,
excluding the presence of large voids. In places where an increased load on the surface of the walls is expected (the presence of shelves, hangers, mirrors, etc.), the crate must be strengthened.
As a rule, for each sheet of drywall, at least two vertical bars are required. Vertical bars are mounted in increments of about 60 cm. Those bars to which two sheets of drywall will be attached should be wider than 80 mm.
Places of horizontal drywall joints are reinforced with additional horizontal bars. The same must be done with the crate of any openings or holes - they are sheathed around the perimeter.
The main task - namely, ensuring the location of all the outer sides of the crate in the same plane can be solved in two ways.
First, a cord is stretched between two vertical bars and the remaining structural elements are mounted in such a way that the outer side slightly touches the cord.
The second way is to place additional horizontal bars above and below, using the rule to ensure their location in the same plane as the vertical bars.
Now apply the rest of the crate.

Finished wooden frame with mineral wool insulation

The next step is to install the insulating layer. Materials that are used in this case: polystyrene foam, mineral wool, foam rubber or combinations of these materials.
Hard-to-reach places are treated with polyurethane foam.

You can learn about the technology of installing drywall on a metal frame.

It is necessary to ensure the most dense filling of the intra-wall space with insulating material.
Naturally, this material should not protrude beyond the plane of the crate, as this will complicate the subsequent installation of drywall.

Finished wall cladding with ceiling frame

Finally, you can proceed to the final stage of work - the installation of drywall sheets. Installation begins with whole sheets. Screws are screwed at a distance of 15-20 cm from the edge of the sheet, in increments of 30-40 cm.
When screwing screws, you should monitor the degree of effort applied, avoiding thread breakage - turning the screw.

Despite the fact that at present there is a method of mounting drywall on a frame made of metal profile, many prefer to mount this finish on a wooden crate.

Preferred if you need to mount single-level ceiling or just wall up. This method is cheaper, dried in a chamber does not deform, perfectly withstands such a load and is able to reliably serve for many years. In addition, such installation is simple, and it is chosen by those who lead the plasterboard sheathing on their own.

Installation of a rack frame for a false ceiling

• 1 Preparatory work.

  Before the beginning installation work the lowest point of the ceiling is visually determined. Its design position is marked from it: 5 cm retreat, and with the help of a level, a horizontal line is drawn around the perimeter. If the work is done correctly, then the start and end points should match. A rail is attached along this horizontal with the help of self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter.

• 2 Installation of longitudinal rails.

  Next, you need prepare longitudinal slats for the crate. The profile is chosen from 30 * 40 to 50 * 70 cm. The finished length of each should be 1 cm less than the length of the ceiling. They are screwed with self-tapping screws at an equal distance from each other. Possible curvature of the ceiling surface is eliminated either by squeezing the rail, or small pieces of thick cardboard are placed in the cavities. Longitudinal rails are fastened with self-tapping screws to the ceiling surface.

• 3 Lathing installation.

  For wooden framing choose dried in a special drying chamber reiki. This completely eliminates the possibility of their deformation. It must be remembered that the raw material, when dried, can lead to the loss of self-tapping screws from the body of the wood. If the material good quality, then slats are fixed in increments of 50 to 70 cm. For regions with a humid climate or if the room is not well ventilated, step is better to reduce to 40cm. It is not worth saving on self-tapping screws. Anyway secure fastening the frame rails to the ceiling will provide you with a long and trouble-free operation of the structure in the future.

• 4 Installation of longitudinal rails for connecting drywall sheets.

  Suitable size for work - 25 * 80 mm. The sheet fits comfortably on the wide side. In addition, it guarantees the reliability of the installation. It is necessary to mark the future location of the rails in such a way that the joint of the drywall sheets falls in their middle. After that, the electrical cables are laid and the installation of drywall begins.

With us you can install drywall only from high-quality lumber. It has undergone special drying in chambers, so its surface is dense with the required moisture level of 12-14%. The rails do not deform and easily withstand loads in quality load-bearing frame. Perform installation on wooden slats simple, reliable and fast.

Working with us, you get the opportunity to purchase excellent goods at the lowest price and repair your home at no extra cost.

There are several ways to create indoor areas Houses smooth walls and ceilings. With one of them, drywall is attached to a wooden frame. It is made from pine or spruce bars, the cross section of which must correspond to future loads. To create a partition with a height of 2.5 - 4.0 meters, a beam of 50 × 60 or 50 × 70 mm is suitable.

Bars for a frame for drywall are made of spruce or pine trees and carefully dried and processed.

Requirements for lumber used to create the crate

The beam must be carefully checked. It may be faint yellow or light brown in color without black or blue spots. Every detail must have the correct geometric dimensions without chips, large cracks and deviations in straightness.

During construction and finishing work It is recommended to use wood with a moisture content of about 15%. It is impossible to check this on your own, therefore, when selecting the material, you just need to make sure by touching your hand that it is not wet. Before installation, it is advisable to hold the bars in the room where they will be installed for several days.

To protect against biological decay, mold, wood bug and rodents, wood is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can use ready mixes for internal works or independently prepare a 4% solution of sodium fluoride by stirring it in hot water. The antiseptic is applied to the bars with a brush in several passes and the material is allowed to dry well.

Tools and materials for mounting a wooden frame

A master who begins to mount a wooden frame for drywall should have at hand:

• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• hammer;
• building level or plumb;
• coated thread;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels, anchors, brackets or anchor plates;
• steel corners or mounting plates.

In the process of creating a partition, in addition to the bars, you will need plasterboard sheets, mineral wool, a primer, putty and finishing materials.

Marking

Before you start making a wooden frame for drywall, you need to determine the plane in which it will be installed and mark the lines of its intersection with the floor, ceiling and walls. At the same time, you need to remember about the thickness of the GKL and take it into account when marking.

The starting point is chosen at the junction line of the ceiling with one of the walls. Having attached a plumb line to it, they find a mark corresponding to it near the floor. Both points are connected by a vertical line. Drywall sheets are manufactured with sufficient precision to be used to determine right angle. To do this, we apply the GKL at an angle to the mark on the floor with the narrow side close to the wall. Continuing perpendicular to opposite wall, we find the next mark. With the help of a plumb line or level, we rise to the ceiling. We connect all four points with straight lines using a coated thread or a pencil with a ruler.

Installation of a wooden frame

The basis of the wooden frame is made up of bars located along its perimeter. They are attached in accordance with the applied markup. The manufacture of the frame begins with a support beam, which is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors, depending on the base material. If there is a doorway in the partition, two beams are taken, diverging from the passage to the walls.

When installing the frame, it must be taken into account that the drywall sheets are fixed so that the joints of the two sheets are in the middle on the bar.

In the same way, the bars are fixed to the ceiling and walls. Then install vertical racks in the center of the frame. Start with the bars framing the doorway. The distance between them should be 3 - 5 cm more than the outer size door frame.

Racks are installed strictly vertically with their ends close to the horizontal support and ceiling bars of the frame. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws using steel corners or mounting plates intended for assembling rafters. They are designed for heavy loads, so they will ensure communication reliability. At the height of the door frame plus 2 cm, the racks are connected with a horizontal jumper.

Between the opening and the walls evenly with a step of 40 - 60 cm put more required amount racks. At large sizes its partitions will have to be covered with several sheets of plasterboard. Drywall is fixed on wooden slats so that the junction of two sheets falls exactly on the central axis of the bar. Therefore, the installation of racks is carried out taking into account future cutting and installation of plasterboards.

For the same reason, if the ceiling height is greater than the length of the drywall sheet, horizontal bars are fixed at the junction of the first and second rows.

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard sheets and finishing work

Installation of GKL on a wooden frame starts from the bottom corner of the partition or from the doorway. To do this, use wood screws 35 mm. They are installed in increments of up to 250 mm, retreating from the edges by 10 - 15 mm. At the same time, the heads of the self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet material, which is important for high-quality wall decoration.

If necessary, cutting drywall cut construction knife followed by a break at the place of the cut. The sheets are joined together with factory edges to each other, and the cut edges turn to the walls and ceiling.

After installing the GKL on one side of the partition, its inner space for noise insulation, it is filled with briquettes of mineral wool, polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. Electrical and information cables are laid, protected from damage by corrugated tubes. Then the back side of the wall is sheathed.

After sheathing the frame with drywall, it must be primed, and then the joints and caps of the self-tapping screws should be well puttied.

The drywall sheets installed in place are treated with a primer. After it dries, all joints and caps of self-tapping screws are covered with a double layer of putty so that an absolutely flat surface is obtained. Two days later, it is primed again and wallpaper is pasted, ceramic tiles or apply any other type of fine finish.

Plasterboarding uneven walls and ceilings

If the dimensions of the room allow part of the space to be occupied by drywall, you can use it to quickly and accurately close uneven walls and ceiling. For this, a wooden frame is also made, which is attached to building structures.

When sheathing the wall, repeat all the operations described for mounting the jumper, placing the frame close to it. To do this, it is allowed to take bars and slats of a smaller section, since they can additionally be attached with brackets or anchor plates to the wall to be closed.

Some masters assemble the frame on a flat floor, and only then put it in the right place and fix it. All cavities between the bars are filled thermal insulation materials. Install drywall on the rails, trying to prevent the presence of joints above the door and window openings, since there will be no supporting vertical posts.

When installing the GKL on the ceiling, the frame bars are attached to the walls strictly horizontally and at the same level. After that, an internal crate is made with fixing it to the extreme bars and to the ceiling slabs. Ceiling plasterboard has a slightly smaller thickness and weight, which makes it easier to install.

Partitions made of plasterboard are often used for overdue redevelopment of an apartment or house, introducing something new and unusual into their design or interior. For this, they have all the advantages: their device and do-it-yourself installation are simple, and even an inexperienced beginner can handle this technology. House master. They are cheap to install and after final finishing they are indistinguishable from the main walls of the apartment.

Such partitions also have disadvantages. But they can be dealt with. For example, the insufficient mechanical strength of the partition can be significantly increased if gypsum-fiber sheets are used instead of conventional drywall or the structure is strengthened by lining the frame with several layers of drywall. And in wet rooms, when constructing partitions, waterproof drywall is used.

But no matter what partition you decide to build in your apartment, remember that the introduction of a new element into the layout must necessarily be agreed with the housing inspection authorities.

Plasterboard partitions, like plasterboard wall cladding, are usually made on a wooden or metal frame. The metal frame is more reliable, more technologically advanced, and when using it, it is possible to arrange complex structures that are more difficult to make on a wooden frame. But, in turn, working with a wooden structure is more familiar and it will cost less.

Lumber for the partition frame is used conifers. All its elements must be treated with special fire and bioprotective impregnations before installation.

The material for the frame is chosen, guided by the parameters of the future partition: the higher and longer it is, the larger the section of the frame elements should be. For a partition frame with dimensions of 2.5x (4-5) m, you can take bars with a section of 60 × 80 mm.

The partition frame consists of strapping, racks, as well as horizontal jumpers, usually installed at the joints of drywall sheets. The design can be supplemented with more powerful racks and lintels in doorways, lathing, etc. To improve soundproofing properties, and in country houses- and for thermal protection, the frame during the manufacturing process of the partition is filled with sound and heat insulating materials. In temporary residences, the insulation is additionally protected by moisture and vapor protective films.

Partition frame installation.

This work begins with the installation of the strapping. Strapping bars are attached to the floor, ceiling and walls. If the floors are wooden, the task is simplified, since ordinary nails are enough to fasten the bars. With a timber thickness of 60 mm, nails 100 mm long are enough. If the walls are concrete or brick plastered, the strapping is fastened with dowel-nails to the wall and floor and with anchors to the ceiling.

Also read on the topic: You should start work with a ceiling beam. Having outlined the boundaries of the partition on the ceiling, the beam is screwed or nailed to the ceiling, after which the location of the lower strapping beam is marked. They do this with a plumb line, a rule with a level, or more modern tools, such as a laser level.

When using traditional tools, at least three marks must be made along the length of the partition - at each of the walls and in the middle. When the marks are made, they are attached to the floor along them. lower bar and once again check the correctness of its location relative to the upper beam. After that, vertical strapping bars are installed on the walls, connecting the floor and ceiling bars.

Since the main load from the future partition falls on the strapping, it is necessary to fasten it as reliably as possible - with a fastening step of no more than 40 cm. But before you fasten the beam, you need to make sure that the walls themselves are strong. If the walls are made of not very durable materials ( cellular concrete, gypsum), dowels are needed maximum dimensions and it may be necessary to replace the dowel-nails with specialized dowels that are designed for use with specific building materials. In extreme cases, you can get by with wooden plugs, which are driven into prepared holes and then screws are screwed into them. This method is old, one might say - old-fashioned, but proven.

Another way to fasten the strapping is using direct hangers used in the installation of metal frames. If the walls are strong enough and smooth (for example, concrete), then this is the most convenient and fast way beam fixings.

After the frame of the structure is in place, and checked for verticality, it's time to put the racks. For them, a beam of the same section is used as for tying the frame.

Racks are usually placed in increments of 60 cm. With this step, each drywall sheet (with a standard sheet width of 120 cm) is mounted on three racks.

Racks can be mounted in several ways. The simplest is with the help of sawn wooden bars, which are fastened with screws to the vertical stand itself and to the harness. More reliable way- fasten the rack with metal corners, which can be easily made from direct suspensions or purchased ready-made.

Horizontal jumpers are also cut out from the same beam. They are fastened by passing a self-tapping screw directly through the vertical posts on one and the other side of the jumper. You can strengthen the connections with metal corners.

If the partition is provided doorway, then it is framed with additional racks and a horizontal jumper. They are made from a bar of the same section as the entire frame, or a little larger. The bottom of the door frame is formed either by a strapping frame, or, if there is no need for a threshold, part of it is carefully sawn out in the opening, and the edges are additionally fixed with dowel-nails.

It is quite difficult to lay engineering communications in a partition of this type. If, nevertheless, it is necessary to lay, for example, electrical wiring in it, then in the racks you have to drill holes of the desired diameter. At the same time, it is advisable to remember that the cable is laid for safety in pipes - rigid or corrugated, or in tin boxes.

Partition cladding.

When the frame is ready, you can start lining it with drywall. Fasten the sheets with screws with a wide hat. It is first necessary to develop a cladding scheme in which the sheets will have to be cut the least.

It is better to cut sheets in such a way that they do not fit over window and door openings - this can lead to chipping of the edges of the sheets. Where this cannot be avoided, an additional bar is placed at the junction, to which the edges of the sheets are attached.

Do-it-yourself insulation installation

If the partition is supposed to use heat and sound insulation, then its installation is started after the partition is lined with drywall on one side.

There are many insulation materials on the market today.

Both foam and mineral wool materials are well suited.

The chosen spacing when installing the racks corresponds to the standard width of many insulating materials, which makes it easier to work.

Rigid panels are best glued to inside already installed drywall. If at the same time small cavities remain between the plates, they can be filled mineral wool. The combination of foam and mineral wool materials gives a good soundproofing effect.

When sheathing the partition with drywall on the second side, it must be remembered that in order to avoid cracking of the frame racks when screwing in at the joints a large number screws, the joints of the sheets must be separated from the joints of the already mounted cladding, shifting them one step to the right or left.

It must also be remembered that a gap of approximately 3-4 mm should remain between the upper edge of the sheet and the ceiling, which will protect the upper edge from chipping. This gap is subsequently closed with a ceiling plinth.

Sheathing of the frame must be performed sequentially from one edge. Screws must be screwed into the racks of the frame perpendicular to the surface of the skin.

Such a partition is the simplest, but despite this, it is sufficiently durable and has good soundproofing properties. Its disadvantage is a small thickness, which makes it difficult to lay communications inside the partition.

Extended partitions with your own hands.

The design of partitions on a double wooden frame allows you to solve the problem of laying engineering communications inside the partition and even installing water heating batteries in them. In width, such partitions are much superior to those discussed above.

For the installation of an extended partition, two strappings are installed, separated by a distance sufficient to accommodate communications. All operations during the installation of the frame are performed in exactly the same way as in the first case. First, the distance at which the two frames will be spaced apart from each other is determined, then the strapping bars and vertical racks are mounted.

After one side of the partition is lined, inside it in pipes or special boxes made of galvanized steel sheet or from plastic they lay all the necessary communications. It is also possible to install inside the partition and radiators, although this will require additional work. Batteries are installed closer to one of the sides, and ventilation grilles are mounted in front of them in drywall.

It should be remembered that in places where pipes with hot water Styrofoam and foam rubber cannot be used as an insulating material. Mineral wool is used as thermal insulation in these places.

There is a way to increase the internal volume of the partition without installing a double frame. In this version, the strapping frame is installed alone, but the vertical posts are attached to the side edges of the strapping bars, as a result of which the partition becomes wider. In this case, the installation of racks to the frame is also simplified - neither adapter bars nor corners are needed. To improve sound insulation, rubber or foam pads are placed between the posts and the strapping bars.

In addition to options with single-layer cladding with drywall, there are designs in which sheets are laid in two layers on each side of the partition. In this case, drywall is attached to the bars in such a way that top sheet overlapped the joint of the lower layer of sheets.

Having finished the installation of drywall sheets, the seams at the joints of the sheets and the heads of the screws are puttied, after which they proceed to finish the partition.

Drywall is a multifunctional building material of our time, with which you can sheathe any room in home. For creating frame base under the GKL, you can use wooden or metal profiles.

Most often in repair work use metal carcass, which provides greater structural strength. But making it is much more difficult than from wooden slats. Therefore, along with metal, a wooden frame for drywall is often used. Wood is environmentally friendly pure material and this is another reason why many prefer it as the basis for home renovations. Moreover, such a frame is much easier to make at home.

In order for the wooden structure in the house to serve for a long time, the tree must be properly prepared. This material is highly susceptible to biological corrosion, climatic influences and burns well. Therefore, before making a wooden frame or partition, the tree should be prepared according to the rules.
Note! It is best to make a partition or frame from conifers.
Before starting, chemical treatment is usually carried out. To do this, wooden slats are treated over the entire surface with antiseptic substances. This will help you prevent:

• damage to wood by mold or fungal microorganisms. And under their influence, the tree deteriorates very quickly;
• the risk of damage to the tree by arboreal insects that use the wood as food;
• biological decay;
• damage to the bars by rodents that can be found in a house, especially a country one.

Today, the market is replete with a wide variety of antiseptics. But the best is sodium fluoride. It penetrates very deep into the wood and is poorly washed out of it.

It should be noted that sodium fluoride does not decompose and cannot lead to metal corrosion. It is also non-toxic to humans and odorless, which is a great advantage for processing with this substance. wooden beams and rails at home.
In addition to sodium fluoride, sodium silicofluoride with the addition of soda ash is also used for wood treatment.
In residential premises it is strictly forbidden to use the following types of oil antiseptics:

• coal;
• creosote;
• anthracene oils;
• shale.

When processing wood with such substances, a person can harm his health!

Before carrying out the installation of wooden planks, the slats must be in the room where they will be fixed for several days. Thanks to this, they will undergo sufficient acclimatization.
Remember that the slats must be made of quality lumber, which must necessarily meet the requirements fire safety and humidity.

The seller, upon request, is obliged to provide you with a certificate or certificate stating that the material has been treated with a flame retardant and has passed a special examination by authorized bodies.

Creating a drawing

Before starting mounting wooden elements construction, draw a drawing.
It is created like this:

• measure the length of the room;
• measure the height of the room;
• multiply the resulting numbers and get the perimeter of the room;
• then we measure the perimeter of the windows in the same way, doorways and put them on the drawing.

Drawing

By creating a diagram, you can evaluate the range of upcoming work and decide on the amount of materials. With it, you will make the correct frame, and you will not have to bend the elements and tamp them so that they fit perfectly into the structure.

Tools for the job

You can make a wooden frame for drywall using the following tools:

• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• construction knife;
• concrete drill with impact drill;

Tools

• wood saw;
• plumb line, tape measure and pencil;
• building level;
• screwdriver, crowbar;
• brackets, dowels and screws.

With this tool at hand, wooden partition or frame will be very easy even for a beginner.

Installation work

Installation of a wooden structure for drywall involves the following processes:

• tracing (marking) of the wall. We put all the elements of the drawing on the wall;
• we measure the distance of the plane of the future partition and retreat from it to the width of the GKL. You should start from the ceiling. We hammer in a nail and hang a plumb line on it. We mark a point on the floor;
• by connecting these two points, you will get the first line;
• then repeat the procedure;

Note! You can do it a little easier. Attach the GKL sheet to the wall (short side) and simply draw a perpendicular from a given point.

• then we begin to make the installation of the frame. We fasten the bars along the lines. Bend wooden beams should not, otherwise they can simply be broken. Can be fastened with both self-tapping screws and spikes (in wooden house). In a stone house we use screws, dowels, brackets or direct hangers;
• along the walls and ceiling we fasten solid bars. Remember that it is impossible to bend a solid beam, so changing the design will no longer work. In this regard, make all fastenings with a level check;
• along the floor, the divergence of the bars on both sides of the doorway is allowed;
• when the opening is located near the wall, we use a solid beam running on one side of this opening;
• Next, we carry out the installation of vertical rails. We install rails strictly according to the level. You can bend them slightly if the rail is slightly uneven. But don't overdo it or it will break.

finished frame

Note! To do wooden structure, you can use bars and slats of different sections. The choice of section should be made depending on the method of sheathing and the height of the partition. You also need to take into account the level of load that the frame will experience in the future, so as not to bend its elements.
When the frame is ready, you can install the doorway:

• on the sides of the opening it is necessary to install two risers. The width of the doorway should be 4 cm more than the width of the door frame itself;
• we strengthen the risers with additional bars;
• at the level of the door frame, add 2.5 cm and install a horizontal lintel. To fix the jumper, it is not necessary to bend it;
• we connect the jumper with the ceiling rail using two vertical bars. They will make the structure more rigid. They will also be needed for fixing drywall sheets in the future;
• Next, attach the racks. Their step, so as not to bend the frame, is 60 cm;
• in the case when the ceilings are slightly higher than the length of the drywall sheet, we make a horizontal jumper in order to better join the sheets at the stage of their installation.

Advice. To determine the location of the jumper above the opening, you need to attach drywall sheet and in place of its edge, nail the jumper in such a way that it goes to its middle.
To increase the rigidity of the structure and the level of load it can withstand at the junction of the bars, metal corners and linings should be used, which are designed to collect truss systems. Thus, you prevent the mechanical destruction of the frame and make it more resistant to mechanical influences from the outside.
The finished structure and each of its details should be checked during installation. building level. Racks must go strictly vertically, and all jumpers - horizontally. In this case, the racks should be positioned in such a way that the maximum possible number of whole sheets of drywall fit on the wall. As a result, you will save not only time, but also reduce material consumption.
A wooden crate for drywall is quite easy to do with your own hands, subject to a number of rules and technologies. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions and you will get even the most complex elements of it.