Uneven walls in the apartment. How and how to align the walls under the wallpaper: materials and stages of work

The builders did not think about crooked walls, and the apartment owners did not ask themselves the question: to make or not to make repairs? Nowadays, people want to live in beautifully renovated apartments, and the alignment of the walls in brick house has become a headache for everyone, from the owners of the apartments to the builders.

Of course, you can live in an apartment with crooked partitions, trying to hide flaws with decorative finishes. But if you want to live in an apartment with a quality repair, you should first of all pay attention to the issue of a smooth plane.

What is the best way to align?

During the repair, finishing work, we wonder what is the best way to level the walls. There are currently two methods available for alignment.

Kinds

One of these types of mill alignment is carried out using the installation of structures,
the other involves the use of various building mixtures (plaster, cement, putty).

1. When it comes to the installation of structures, we mean drywall partitions. Thanks to drywall, leveling does not take time and a large number work force. With it, you can easily hide all communications in the room (for example, electrical wiring, heating appliances). And, thanks to the same drywall, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe apartment can noticeably decrease. Drywall construction "eats" centimeters. It is for this reason that plasterboard leveling should only be used to repair rooms with very crooked and uneven walls, or when the repair needs to be carried out in a very short time.
2. If repairs are made with various building mixtures, then they will not “eat up” the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe apartment, but they will require a lot of labor, in addition to this, repairs will take a lot of time. Building mixtures are usually suitable for repair and finishing work in such areas of a residential apartment as a bedroom or living room.

How to do it

First you need to understand the terminology. There is the concept of "leveling the walls", which means that the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall will be leveled, and "leveling the surface", which means obtaining a flat and smooth surface. Therefore, it is important to first decide what we want to achieve, and only then proceed to repair work.

How to level drywall

When leveling the surface with drywall, you must purchase in advance at the store building materials

• drywall sheets,
• metal profiles and suspensions,
• special self-tapping nails for drywall and metal,
• sickle,
• grinder and grinding mesh,
• putty and level.

1. Before you start covering the walls with a plasterboard structure, you should apply a primer solution to the walls. The primer in the future will help to avoid the formation of mold and fungus. If the wall you are going to level is brick and without signs of any finish on it, you should close up all the gaps between the brick joints with cement mortar.
2. The next step will be the fastening of the guide profiles. They are attached to the floor 5 cm from the wall using special dowel-nails. At the same distance from the wall, the guide profile is attached to the ceiling. The exact distance of the guide profiles from the wall is calculated using the level. The fixed profiles will further serve as a frame.
3. Following the profiles, at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other, suspensions are attached, which will help us to fix the guide profiles on the walls. Before fixing the profiles with self-tapping nails, it is necessary to check their evenness with a level. The wall profile is attached in such a way that its edges fit into the rails of the upper and lower rails.

Considering that the standard width of drywall sheets is 1.2 m, there must be a distance between the profiles that is exactly 60 cm. As a result, an extra profile remains in the middle of the drywall sheet, which will help us fix this sheet for greater strength.

After the design is completed, you can begin to attach drywall sheets to it.

1. Drywall sheets are attached to the structure we created using self-tapping nails in such a way that the nail head is completely inserted into the drywall sheet. The distance between the screws should not be more than 20 cm.
2. If the distance from the floor to the ceiling of your room is greater than the size of the drywall sheet, then when installing it, the first sheet is attached from below, the second from above, and this order is maintained until the last sheet is installed.
3. The remaining empty gaps between the sheets are then filled with pieces cut from drywall sheets that fit them in size.

After attaching the drywall to the frame, we proceed to its finishing.

1. First, all seams are primed and dried.
2. After the primer dries, a self-adhesive tape (the so-called serpyanka) is glued to the seams. This tape will protect the putty from cracks, and the primer will protect the walls from the formation of fungus.
3. After the above procedures, putty is applied to all seams with a large spatula.
4. Putty is diluted strictly according to the instructions (usually included in the package), which says how and in what proportions the dry mixture should be diluted with water at room temperature.
5. The putty layer applied to the drywall seams should be very thin. Previously, the holes left by the nails are filled with the same putty using a small spatula.
6. After the walls are finished with putty, they need to be sanded with special tools (grinder and sanding mesh) purchased in advance. After grinding, a thin layer of putty is again applied to the seams.
7. At the end of the whole, the walls are again covered with a primer mixture.

A more convenient and acceptable option for leveling, wall insulation is repair using building mixtures, for example, using plaster. But first, you need to analyze the degree of curvature and set the angle of inclination. This analysis requires a level.

1. First we need to find the deepest and most extreme segment of the wall.
2. Then we must calculate the amount of mixture that will need to be applied to the wall in order to level it.
3. If the unevenness of the wall takes small area, then it can be knocked down with a puncher.
4. After this simple procedure, the wall can simply be puttied.

If the leveling requires serious builder intervention, then you can choose one of the two currently available leveling methods:

• leveling with plaster or putty and cement mixture;
• the second method is applicable to walls on which no finishing work has previously been carried out, and on the surface of which there are significant irregularities and damage that are noticeable even to the naked eye.

How to level with plaster

In order to level with plaster, you should purchase a soil mixture, plaster, level and spatulas (large and small).

1. First of all, we must prepare the wall for the alignment procedure. We get rid of old wallpaper, peeling paint and other building and finishing materials previously used for wall decoration.
2. In addition, you need to dismantle all sockets and hide inside the box insulated wires wiring.
3. The wall is ready and we can start priming it. The primer is necessary in order to fix the plaster on the wall, as well as to exclude the possibility that it will crack and begin to crumble.
4. The primer is produced using a wide roller and construction brushes. There is a possibility that the primer will dry quickly when applied, so the primer can be applied in multiple coats.
5. After you have primed and it has dried, you can start applying plaster to the surface of the wall.

Walls are plastered in two main ways.

• The first method involves simply applying plaster to the wall in one layer. It is the least expensive for wall decoration, suitable mainly for non-residential premises.
• The second method is more expensive both in terms of the cost of the work performed, and in terms of labor costs, and in terms of the time it takes to complete it.

If you decide to choose the second method when leveling, then you need to remember that in this case the building mixture, namely plaster, must be applied in several layers and each layer is primed separately.
Usually, only three layers of plaster are required to level the walls.

So. The surface of the wall, as a rule, has many flaws, irregularities and various recesses. In order to hide them, the so-called "zero" layer of plaster is applied to the wall. Before you begin to cover with plaster, it must be examined for protrusions and depressions. This knowledge will be required during the application of plaster on the surface, we will remember exactly where to apply the plaster in a thicker layer.
In order to prepare the mixture for the start of the main work, we will need a bucket of water and a drill with a mixer nozzle. The proportions for diluting the dry mixture with water are indicated on the packaging.

To apply plaster, we need a wide spatula, on the edge of which, with the help of a second spatula, the finished mixture is applied.

1. The plaster is applied in wide circular motions, rubbing and smearing it over the entire surface of the wall.
2. If irregularities remain on the wall, the plaster is applied to them with a narrow spatula and rubbed with a wide one.
3. The first layer of plaster should help us get rid of all the bulges and indentations on the wall.
4. After the first layer of plaster dries, a primer must be applied to it.
5. After the primer dries, a second layer of plaster is applied, it covers the entire surface of the wall.
6. After that, all the bumps should disappear.
7. On top of this layer of plaster, a primer is also applied (its last layer).
8. After all layers of plaster and primer have been applied to the wall, the wall surface is treated with putty, after which you can safely proceed to finishing work.

With cement

As we already know, cement leveling of wall surfaces is used only if there are various damages, indentations and other flaws, or if no previous work has been done on this wall. Finishing work, and also if the wall has a slope in one direction or another.

If there are recesses on the wall, then it should be “built up”, bringing the cavity up and completely covering it with cement mortar.

In the second case, when the wall is initially “bare”, a layer of cement screed is simply applied to it entirely.

Cement leveling will require guide rails, a level, a dry cement mix, a rule and a trowel.

As in the case of using plaster for leveling, in the case of cement leveling, a base in the form of a primer is first applied to their surface.

Before you start painting on the walls cement mortar, it is required to calculate the level of the layer cement mixture required for alignment.

1. To do this, with the help of guide rails, so-called beacons are installed. They should be at a distance of 3 cm from the maximum protruding point. Due to the fact that beacons are installed, it is possible to keep track of the amount of mixture that is thrown onto the walls to level them.
2. The cement mixture is prepared strictly according to the instructions that are attached to the package with cement.
3. After we have prepared the mixture, it is applied with a trowel to the wall in those places where the beacons will hold.
4. Be sure to install beacons at a distance of one meter from each other.
5. All this is done before the mixture dries, otherwise the beacons will not be installed correctly, they will not hold, and work will have to be started from the very beginning.
6. After fixing the beacons, you should check their evenness vertically and horizontally.
7. In case of irregularities, the rails can be adjusted in level.
8. If the beacons are installed at a distance exceeding the allowable 3 cm, the cement mixture will flow down the wall and begin to crack.
9. After the beacons are installed and their evenness is checked, the mixture on which they are fixed should dry. This process takes about 5 hours.
10. After the required time has elapsed, during which the mixture on which the beacons are held has dried, you can begin work on applying the cement mixture to the wall surface.
11. Before this, the wall should be wetted with water.
12. The cement mixture is poured in such a way that the cement can fill all the recesses in the wall.
13. The level of the cement mixture should protrude 2-3 mm above the level of the beacons, this is a prerequisite for leveling.
14. After the first row of cement has been applied, as a rule, we draw along the beacons from the bottom up to obtain a flat and smooth surface.
15. Sometimes small depressions remain in some places (there was not enough mixture), which can be filled with cement using a small spatula.
16. Then this section of the wall is again aligned with the rule.
17. After the first row of cement has dried up, we begin to apply the second row of cement and so on until the end of all work.
18. Approximately 10 days should elapse before proceeding to the finishing work, during which the cement on the surface has time to dry (the degree of drying depends on temperature regime in room).

Due to the fact that the air in these rooms is constantly humid, the alignment of the walls in the bathroom and kitchen should be carried out with a mixture prepared from cement. Do not use drywall or plaster.

With a slight surface roughness, in which it can be eliminated directly during the laying of tiles, applying more adhesive mixture to places with flaws.

As we already know, the surface is leveled with putty. Thus, it is prepared for wallpapering and applying paint.

When applying putty, it should be remembered that its layer should not be more than 2 mm. After putty is applied to the surface, the wall is sanded and brought to perfect smoothness and evenness. After sanding, the surface is ready for decorative finishing.

corners

In order for the walls to be perfectly aligned, you need to pay attention to their outside corners. When aligning the corners, special squares (metal and perforated) are used. A thin layer of a mixture of gypsum is applied to the entire surface of the corner on both sides, on which the square is applied. Then it is hidden under a layer of plaster (or gypsum) and we achieve the formation of a smooth surface of the wall and corner.

Walls in a wooden house

Walls in wooden house after consultation with a specialist, it can be leveled with a plasterboard construction.

If the walls in a wooden house are slanted, then after finding the slope point with the help of special wooden beams you can direct the wall in the desired direction.

In the houses of the old Soviet construction, the walls, unfortunately, do not always differ in special evenness. In most cases, their surface is covered with bumps and pits, has cracks or chips. At the same time, their plane itself often often deviates significantly from the vertical or horizontal. Of course, rooms with such walls do not look very attractive. Before wallpapering, painting or, for example, before finishing decorative plaster, the surfaces of the enclosing structures in such apartments have to be adjusted. How to level the walls? The answer to this question, of course, many homeowners would like to know. Surfaces with defects can be corrected using different materials.

Two main methods

In our time, there are two main ways to align the walls in a room:

• dry;
• raw.

In the first case, the alignment of walls for wallpaper or decorative plaster is most often done using drywall. Also, dry correction technology may involve the use of plywood, lining or PVC boards. In the raw alignment technique, one usually uses different types plasters.

What types of mixtures exist

Such wall leveling materials are usually supplied to the market in dry bags. Before use, they must be diluted with water, in the amount determined by the instructions for use. Plaster can be used to level the walls:

• plaster;
• cement;
• clay;
• acrylic;
• silicate.

Advantages and disadvantages of gypsum compositions

The initial mass of materials of this type is a very fine powdery dry mixture. The answer to the question of how to level the walls in the apartment, gypsum plaster is very good. Its composition, among other things, includes various kinds of plasticizers. And so it lays down on the walls very evenly.

With the use of such plaster, alignment can be carried out concrete walls or brick. Do not use such mixtures mainly only in very damp rooms - saunas, bathrooms, swimming pools, etc. It is also not allowed to use gypsum to level the facades of buildings.

The main advantages of plasters of this type are:

• high degree of elasticity;
• excellent adhesion to the treated surface.

Also, the masters also refer to the advantages of gypsum plaster and its fine texture. Aligning walls for wallpaper using such mixtures has the advantage that at the final stage in this case it is not necessary to apply finishing putty. Another undoubted advantage of such plasters is rapid maturation. If necessary, it is possible to start pasting the walls, leveled with a gypsum mixture, in a week.

The disadvantages of the compositions of this variety include primarily their high cost. Leveling walls with gypsum plaster is usually quite expensive. The funds of this variety cost about one and a half to two times more expensive than cement ones. Also, the disadvantages of mixtures of this type include a very short period of viability. It is necessary to use the prepared gypsum mixture within an average of 45 minutes. Of course, such a short “life” makes working with plaster of this variety not particularly convenient.

The best brands of gypsum mixtures

Of course, when choosing a plaster of this variety, like any other, you should first of all pay attention to the brand of the manufacturer. The most popular gypsum mixtures in our country are:

1. "Found". Plaster of this brand can remain viable for up to 90 minutes. It costs about 250-300 rubles. per bag.
2. "Knauf". This manufacturer supplies Russian market very high quality gypsum mixture "Rotband". A bag of such plaster costs about 400 rubles. Leveling the walls with Rotband is not a particularly complicated procedure. Such a mixture can keep viability for one and a half hours. In addition, it has a high degree of plasticity.
3. "Eunice". Such mixtures after preparation should be worked out within 50 minutes. They cost about 300 rubles. per bag.

Pros and cons of cement compositions

It is this material that most often serves as the answer to the question of how to align the walls inside or outside the room. There are two main types of such plasters on the market today. For leveling surfaces, both a cement-lime mixture and a cement-sand mixture can be used.

On the walls, both of these types of plaster lie no worse than gypsum. At the same time, the cement leveling mixture is much cheaper. Such plaster is the best answer to the question of how to level the walls in the bathroom. It is perfect for wet areas.

The only thing in which cement plaster loses to gypsum plaster is not a very smooth texture. After using such a mixture, it is usually necessary to additionally apply a finishing material. Another disadvantage of cement plaster in comparison with gypsum is long term maturation. It is possible to proceed with the final finishing of walls aligned with its use only after about a month.

The best manufacturers of cement mixtures

Compositions of this type, like gypsum, are supplied to the domestic market by many companies. But the most popular plasters in our country are:

• cement-lime "Founding Starwell-21";
• cement-lime Polimin ShV 1;
• cement-sand "Vetonit TT".

The Starwell mixture can be used to level the walls not only indoors, but also outside. Such plaster costs about $ 5.9 per bag weighing 25 kg. Polimin SHV 1 mixtures may only be used indoors. The permissible maximum thickness of the leveling layer when using both types of plaster is 20 mm. The price of a mixture of Polimin ShV 1 is approximately $ 3.6.

Compositions "Vetonit TT" can be used for leveling indoor walls and facades. They can be applied to the surface with a layer of up to 3 cm. Such a plaster costs about $ 9 per 25 kg.

How to align the walls from the outside: acrylic compounds

Building facades are thus most often leveled with cement plaster. However, sometimes acrylic mixtures are also used for this purpose. Such materials are more expensive, but at the same time they give a much stronger leveling layer. Such finishing composition based aqueous solution acrylic. The main advantages of plasters of this type are:

• elasticity;
• good degree of heat and sound insulation;
• frost resistance;
• ease of use.

The disadvantages of plasters of this variety, as well as gypsum, include a short pot life. Also, such a mixture has earned not too good consumer reviews and for a not particularly high degree of vapor permeability. Walls covered with plaster of this type, unfortunately, simply stop "breathing". They refer to the disadvantages of mixtures of this variety and the fact that after drying they can accumulate static electricity and attract all sorts of garbage to themselves.

Top Brands of Acrylic Blends

The most popular manufacturers of such plasters in Russia, as well as gypsum plasters, are Osnovit, Vetonit and Knauf. Also, Ceresit brand plasters are often used to level the facades. Such mixtures are usually supplied to the market already in ready-made. It is not necessary to dilute them with water. It is convenient to work with them, but plasters of this type are more expensive than gypsum and cement ones. Therefore, they are usually used only to correct walls that have only minor defects.

Advantages and disadvantages of silicate mixtures

Alignment of walls for painting or any other type of decorative finish using such material can be done both outside and inside the room. But most often, silicate plaster, like acrylic, is still used for finishing facades. Such materials are made on the basis of silicone resin. They also include liquid potassium glass, a water-repellent agent and mineral fillers. Like acrylic, silicate plaster is expensive. And they use it, respectively, only for leveling walls that have minor defects or as finishing after cement-sand mixture.

The advantages of silicate plasters include primarily:

• elasticity and good adhesive properties;
• high degree of strength;
• resistance to various kinds of atmospheric influences.

The main disadvantage of such mixtures is considered to be a short pot life.

Raw wall leveling technology: main features

Acrylic and silicate plasters, therefore, are in most cases applied to walls in a thin layer using the usual technology - with a spatula or by means of a spray gun. Cement and gypsum mixes superimposed on surfaces usually in a thick layer. Therefore, when working with them, among other things, special guides are used - beacons. The use of such additions allows you to get the most even surfaces. Work is carried out in this case in several stages:

1. First, the old plaster layer is removed from the wall (if necessary).
2. The surface is primed. Depending on what kind of plaster is supposed to be used in the future, a gypsum or cement-based product is used to treat the surface.
3. Beacons are installed. To align the walls, a special profile is usually used, which can be purchased at any building hypermarket. Beacons are attached to the wall on a cement or gypsum mortar according to the level. The distance between them should be slightly less than the length of the rule.
4. Between the beacons, the actual plaster itself is laid. The wall can be treated with a solution both manually and, for example, using a sprayer.
5. The mixture is carefully leveled by means of a rule.

After the composition dries, beacons are removed from the wall. To level the walls (seal the grooves remaining after the profile), a little more gypsum or cement plaster is diluted. At the final stage, the surface is treated with a paint grater and covered with a thin layer of a fine-textured mixture.

Finishing putty: varieties

Compositions of this type can be:

• cement (based on very fine sand or lime);
• plaster;
• silicate;
• acrylic.

For wet rooms and facades, depending on the budget, can be selected cement plasters, acrylic or silicate. Gypsum is usually used to decorate rooms from the inside. Also, in some cases, for this purpose, of course, cement can also be used. Putties of this variety are applied over plaster, often using a special reinforcing paint mesh.

Drywall

Plasters are, of course, just a great answer to the question of how to level the walls. However, such tools can, unfortunately, be used mainly only to remove holes and bumps from the surface. More serious defects in the form of deviation from the plane by means of a crude technique are rather difficult to correct, and sometimes even impossible. After all, apply plaster compositions on the surface is allowed only not too thick layer.

some disadvantage raw technology is also the fact that with its use only concrete or brick walls can be leveled. For wood similar materials are usually not used.

Therefore, the raw technique is not suitable for eliminating serious wall defects, as well as for leveling cobbled or chopped surfaces. In this case, another method of correction is usually used - dry. The walls with this technology are simply sheathed on the frame with some sheet material. Types of finishes in this case can be used different. But most often drywall is used for this purpose.

Actually, the GKL sheets themselves for wall correction can be used in two main varieties:

• ordinary;
• moisture resistant.

The second type of GKL differs from the first primarily in color. Moisture resistant sheets have a greenish tint. They, for example, are an excellent answer to the question of how to align the walls in the bathroom. It is produced by the industry in our time and refractory GKL. Sheets of this variety can withstand not only very high temperatures, but even open fire(In one hour). Such drywall is very expensive, and therefore it is used mainly only for leveling the surfaces of stoves and fireplaces.

The best brands of drywall

The leading manufacturers of GKL in Russia are:

• Lafarge.
• Rigips.
• Giproc.

The quality of all these brands of drywall are quite good. But the Knauf sheets are still the most popular in our country. This company supplies the domestic market with three main types of GKL:

• wall thickness 12.5 mm;
• ceiling - 9.5 mm;
• arched - 6.5 mm.

If desired, today you can purchase both ordinary sheets of this manufacturer 2500 x 1200 mm, and non-standard ones. The width of the latter can be 600-1500 mm, length - 1500-4000 mm, and thickness - 6.5-24 mm.

Drywall finishing technology

Any special preparation of the walls when using GKL is not required. Surfaces in this case are usually simply cleaned of dirt and dust. Next, a special aluminum or steel profile is mounted on the wall using a level. Actually, the drywall itself is attached to it with the help of dowels of a special design with plastic wide heads. GKL sheets are fixed during installation so that no cruciform seams form between them.

At the final stage, the plasterboard surface can either be wallpapered or treated with a thin layer of plaster. Of course, it is often used for finishing GKL and finishing putty.

Lining, plywood and plastic panels

Such materials are also usually used for large deviations of surfaces from the horizontal or vertical. In addition, such a finish can also be used when the walls need not only to be leveled, but also insulated.

In the latter case, timber is usually used to assemble the frame for the material. It can be wall-mounted both vertically and horizontally. Actually, for insulation between the bars of the frame, plates are subsequently installed mineral wool or polystyrene foam. Then a vapor barrier film is sewn on top, and the leveling material itself is installed on top of it.

The walls in the apartment are most visible structures of the house. If floors can be covered various materials, and make the ceilings hinged, then uneven walls cannot be hidden anywhere. Especially if they do not have carpets and other distracting coatings, then verticality and unevenness will be immediately noticeable. Therefore, do-it-yourself wall alignment is the most best option improvement of the interior of the premises in the house (apartment).

During the construction of houses, all finishing work is most often carried out by contractor construction organizations, and in private buildings by hired teams. Often, their lack of control leads to differences along the entire length of the walls up to 5-10 cm. Plastering made by inept guest workers without the use of professional tools and sometimes no experience at all in finishing, forces the owner of such newly built housing to perform additional alignment of the walls when moving in.

Necessary materials and tools

To perform the alignment of the walls in the apartment, the following materials are used:

• dry building mixtures, followed by their dissolution in water (dry plaster, putty, etc.)
• panels made of plastic, metal, wood boards or drywall.

To carry out leveling with wet mixtures, you need a special tool:

• spatulas of two or three sizes (a tool with a rubber handle is recommended), metal part should not be too soft
• a basin with straight walls or a bucket with a capacity of 15-20 liters,
• a special mixer mounted on an electric drill (manual mixing takes a lot of time and effort),
• brushes or roller for priming,
• rule - a special tool for leveling,
• surface cleaning material.

Wall alignment belongs to the category dirty work Therefore, it is necessary to have working overalls made of tarpaulin material.

Sheet alignment

Due to the high labor intensity of the plastering process, many homeowners with little building experience perform wall cladding with sheet material - drywall. This method is also loved by professional teams - also because of the time savings. Panels are attached to a previously equipped metal frame or glued to the wall with special glue.

The main requirement for such work is the removal of the vertical level of the wall surface during the installation of a metal profile.

Alignment of walls with wet mixes

The most common method remains the use of a wet type of wall leveling. To perform this type of work, minimal skills in using a spatula and removing beacons are required. Wall leveling compounds can be purchased at any building materials store. There you can also find instructions for preparing solutions.

Before the main leveling stage, you need to remove the old coating from the surface (wallpaper, whitewash, paint). In necessary situations, a flimsy, falling off old plaster corners and other places. In practice, the entire old coating is more often cleaned to the main concrete or brickwork.

The procedure for leveling walls begins with measuring the differences along the entire length of the wall. This can be done with a long special tool - a building level. Or by pulling any cord along the wall. The verticality of the surface is measured using a simple plumb line. In the presence of differences of not more than 30 mm, they begin to work. The largest layer of the laid plaster should not exceed the allowable dimensions.

Lighthouse Alignment

Surface preparation for painting is most often carried out according to beacons, which serve as a guide. The initial alignment of the walls with putty is carried out by applying it between the beacons and distributing the solution from the bottom up. The ends of the tool must be in contact with the surface of the beacons installed along the entire height of the wall at a certain distance from each other, corresponding to the length of the rule.

The final alignment of the walls consists in grouting the surface with a special device - a plotter. After its completion, it is recommended to apply a primer over the putty for better adhesion of the paint.

Working with spatulas

In the absence of experience with the rule, you can use two spatulas. One will serve as the "palette". It will be possible to dose the quality and quantity of the solution on it. And the other spatula, smaller, will be working. They apply a layer of the mixture to the wall. When using a spatula, it must be held at an angle of 45º to the surface. In this position, the mixture will lie flat.

Surfaces are usually carried out in three layers, with a thickness of each of at least 1.5-2 mm. The temperature in the room should not be below 10º C and the sun's rays on the applied putty should not be allowed. After applying the putty, the wall must be primed.

2. Preparation of surfaces for leveling.

3. Methods for leveling surfaces.

4. Plastering walls.

5. Video.

A rare living space boasts perfectly even walls that were originally. This moment can negate all the efforts, aesthetics and reliability of the coating. Therefore, the first thing is to do everything as it should be, without neglecting this step.

1. How to understand that the walls are uneven?

Clarity will bring one of the ways with the use of tools. As a rule, there are not so many of them: plumb lines, building levels and rules.

Leading in demand - building rule and levels. Generally, optimal parameters- two or two and a half meters. In this case, they are the most functional: it is required that the tool vertically rise to almost the entire height of the wall, and also that it can be easily rotated diagonally. As a rule, if it is not in the home "arsenal", a perfectly flat rail can be used. But it should not be too thin, bending when force is applied, otherwise accurate measurements will not work. It will be enough of its size in the section of 20 × 50 mm. A rail, level or rule is applied to the wall surface vertically, horizontally and diagonally. Track the dimensions of the gaps formed between the wall and the tool, which will show the degree of surface roughness.

Another simple and affordable way to check the verticality of a wall that does not require expensive tools is to use a plumb line. Even if the farm does not have such a device, it is easy to quickly make it yourself. This will require a thin but strong cord about three meters long, as well as a load weighing 150 ÷ ​​200 grams, best of all - a balanced, symmetrical shape. It is not difficult to use a plumb line: for this, a nail is driven into the wall, under the ceiling, stepping back from the joint 25 ÷ 30 mm, onto which the cord is fixed, and the load tied to it freely falls vertically along the wall. The load should hang freely, not reaching the floor by 10÷15 mm. When the load settles down and does not move, you can see how distorted the surface is - measure the gaps at various points along the height - and compare the results.

In addition to the evenness of the walls, it is necessary to check their perpendicularity, that is, the corners of the room must be straight. A building square will help in determining this parameter, which is applied in several places along the entire height of the joint and make the necessary marks. True, the square must be quite large in order to accurately identify possible deviations. If there is no large square, then it is better to apply the Egyptian triangle rule. To do this, two legs, multiples of 3 and 4, are laid off from the corner along the walls, and the hypotenuse should be a multiple of 5. For example, 1.5 m (0.5 × 3) is measured along one wall, and 2 m (0.5 × 4), and the distance between these points in a straight line should be 2.5 m (0.5 × 5). If this is not the case, then the angle is clearly different from the right one, and it is necessary to look for the cause and a way to eliminate it.

Probably the most optimal and accurate option is to use laser level(laser plane builder). This device sets perpendicular vertical planes, projects lines in space, along which, by simple measurements with comparisons of the gaps, it is easy to identify the uneven surfaces of the walls, their correspondence to the vertical plane and mutual perpendicularity. Having determined the deviations of the walls from the required plane, the location of irregularities - depressions or bulges, they immediately evaluate their approximate height or depth. - In the case when surface defects or deviations from the vertical plane are 8 ÷ 15 mm or more, the walls will have to be leveled by plastering on beacons or by installing drywall sheets. - If the differences do not exceed 5 ÷ 8 mm, then you can fix the surface by applying a thin layer of plaster or putty mortar.

2. Surface preparation for leveling

In order to understand what stages the work on leveling the walls consists of, it is worth considering these processes in more detail. However, before moving on to brief description each of the alignment methods, a few words need to be said about the common for all technologies preparatory activities. The preparatory stage can be difficult and tedious, but it should not be brushed aside, as this is the guarantee of the quality of the leveled surface and its operational durability. It is especially necessary to carefully approach the preparation of walls for plastering, but drywall also requires its own special approach. So, the preparation of walls for further alignment includes several important operations, which include the following:

The first step of the wall must be completely cleared of decorative coating, if it is present on surfaces, it is removed old paint or wallpaper. These processes are made different ways which are detailed in a separate article.

After the walls are freed from the old finish, the plaster layer will open, which requires the most thorough examination. Such a revision is necessary, since cracks could appear on it during operation, or delamination, partial or complete, is not excluded. Depending on the degree of damage to the old plaster layer, it will have to be removed completely or a proper repair should be made. If this layer has a sufficiently large thickness, poor-quality material is used for it, and its surface is uneven, then it is better to get rid of it completely. If the wall has large protrusions, they will have to be knocked down, and small bulges should be sanded or brushed off with a metal brush.

If “wet” work is supposed to be on the wall, then to ensure electrical safety, the room will most likely have to be de-energized. Usually, in such cases, it is planned to replace sockets and switches, which means that the old ones must be dismantled and then the bare wires insulated.

After cleaning or repairing the surface of the wall, it must be primed several times - this is to strengthen and dedust the surface and to create conditions for reliable adhesion between the surface and the new leveling mortar.

After the final drying of the primer, you can proceed to the application of putty, plaster, or to the installation of special beacon profiles, along which the surfaces will be leveled.

If you plan to level with plaster wooden walls, then they are cleaned of dust and primed with an antiseptic primer for wood. Thereafter dry walls sheathed with wooden slats - shingles, which will create a good adhesion of mortar and wood.

3. Methods for leveling surfaces

The choice of a method for leveling walls directly depends on their condition, that is, whether they have significant curvature, or whether it is simply necessary to eliminate a slight surface relief that can appear through layers of paint or. In fact, there are not so many technological methods for leveling walls. They have been used for decades, but with the advent of new building materials, they are constantly being improved. So, the alignment of the walls is carried out in the following ways:

Plastering, that is, applying a special leveling layer to the surface mortar. In turn, this method can be divided into two types - this is the alignment of the walls along the beacons and without their use.

Mounting drywall sheets, setting the desired evenness of the wall surface (often also called "dry plaster"). This alignment option is also divided into two different approaches - this is the fixing of sheets on the frame, or the frameless fastening of the GVL directly to the wall.

Leveling the walls with putty This method of bringing the surface in order is used in combination with the other two mentioned above, or independently. If the walls have a smooth surface, without major geometric distortions, but there are small irregularities on it, then it is the putty that will help to bring them to perfect smoothness.

4. Plastering walls

A few words about leveling mortars Currently, a very wide range of ready-made building mixtures is presented in construction stores, designed for plastering works. They can be on different bases.

Cement-based plasters are used for outdoor work, as well as for rooms with increased level humidity;

Gypsum mixtures are suitable for walls made of almost any material, but their scope is limited only to interior decoration. However, many master finishers and homeowners prefer to cook plaster mortars on one's own. And the basis for this, in addition to cement or gypsum, can also be lime or clay. Lime and cement-lime mortars have proven themselves for external and interior decoration, and clay-based plasters are seen as generally inexpensive (in the presence of free raw materials) and are suitable for leveling wooden, clay or brick walls.

5. Video

Smooth planes are an indispensable condition quality repair, in apartments it is very often necessary to align the walls, since ideal geometry is rare even for new buildings, and in old houses this problem is even more urgent. The process is not easy, but with patience and adherence necessary requirements All work can be done on your own.

Small irregularities and minor defects are easy to hide under wallpaper, decorative plaster. In more difficult cases walls are leveled in one of the main ways - by applying plaster mixture or plasterboard lining. Each of them has its own strengths and weaknesses.

The use of building mixtures

If the walls of the apartment are relatively even and have a slight degree of curvature, many owners often prefer the use of leveling solutions.

This alignment method has been known for a long time, and it has a number of positive aspects:

• in the process of plastering, the internal volume of the room practically does not change;
• perfect for any premises (for various purposes and operating conditions);
• tiles, wallpaper, painting, and other finishing coatings hold well on the prepared base;
• it is not necessary to process the entire surface, partial alignment of problem areas is allowed;
• all work using the available construction tool, you can do it yourself.

To reduce the thickness of the applied layer, at the preparatory stage, all cracks and recesses are pre-filled with quick-drying mixtures, and the protrusions are knocked down with a perforator.

The disadvantages include the following points:

• the plaster mixture is suitable for leveling minor differences, an increase in the thickness of the layer leads to an increase in material consumption, financial and time costs;
• special skills are needed, in their absence it is very difficult to immediately get the desired result;
• so that the applied solution dries well before finishing, depending on the thickness of the layer, it is left for 2-3 or more days.

Basic preparatory work

If the wall is concrete, then the simplest, most affordable and common method is to use a cement-sand mortar. The technology is simple, therefore, in the absence of experience, it is possible to acquire and improve the necessary skills in the process of work.

To carry out the plastering correctly, follow the step-by-step instructions:

• The surface is cleaned of the previous finish, for which old wallpaper and areas of poorly fixed plaster are removed, and the protrusions are knocked down.
• Turn off the power and disassemble the sockets. If necessary, they are replaced, and the wires are laid in strobes.
• Remove all fasteners (screws, nails, hooks).
• Existing deep cracks are expanded and filled with cement mortar.
• Having prepared the base, it is cleaned of dirt and dust.

The next step is priming. For better adhesion of the applied mixture to the surface, it is recommended to use a deep penetration composition with antiseptic properties. Onatstrengthens the base, improves adhesionand prevent the appearance of mold, the development of fungus.

On open flat areas, the primer is applied with a roller in a continuous layer, but in the corners it is more convenient to use a brush. After the first layer, after a pause necessary for it to dry, re-processing is carried out.

Before plastering the walls, beacons must be set up. For these purposes, metal profiles with a T-section or ordinary wooden slats. They are pressed into the "cakes" of cement, previously thrown on the base, gypsum mortar and, until he seizes, they quickly set the level.

An arbitrary distance is chosen between the beacons, but for the convenience of working at the corners of the room, at least 30 cm recede.

The main thing is that the rule along the edges rests on adjacent profiles and moves freely in the vertical direction.

Starting plastering, you can take the dry mix in the package and, diluted with water, prepare in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Or, using the most common materials - cement and sand, mix it yourself. Further, taking a trowel or spatula, ready composition applied to a pre-moistened wall so that the layer protrudes 2–3 mm above the level of the beacons.

Then, on them, trying to smooth the surface, they draw a rule from the bottom up. In places where small indentations remain, add a solution and re-align. If necessary, another layer is applied, leveling it in a circular motion, and the wall is left to dry. At the final stage, putty is used as a finish.

Working in separate rooms, you have to pay attention to the specifics of their purpose and features of operation. So, the bathroom is relatively small, so special difficulties does not arise, but considering high humidity and intensity of use, the question is natural - what material to choose?

Best of all, according to its characteristics, a cement-sand or gypsum leveling mixture is suitable; after hardening, their structure acquires the necessary properties that increase resistance to moisture. You can also install waterproof drywall, but the room is small and the frame will take up some space. At the end of all work, the walls can be painted, but the best option- glue ceramic tiles, as it will create additional protection and ennoble appearance.

Internal and external corners

There are several ways to align corners, but the easiest and most effective way is with perforated profiles.When removing irregularities inner corner with your own hands, you need to perform a series of sequential work:

• over the entire height in the most even places, through an equal interval of 150–250 mm, apply a quick-hardening mixture;
• pressing into her corner metallic profile(inner shelves outward), check its position relative to the level;
• leave until completely hardened;
• further, starting from the flat sides of the corner, begin the main finishing work.

External ledge perform the same way, but the perforated corner is applied in reverse. After making the final alignment of the side surfaces and waiting for the complete hardening and drying of the material, they begin to grind it. To do this, take a grater or sandpaper, fixing it in a special holder, and, exercising light pressure, pass over the entire surface in a circular motion.

The number of layers applied and the choice of material, starting or finishing, depends on how curved the walls are.

Upon completion of work, in order to remove adhering plaster from the tool, it is placed for a while in a container of water or a small spatula is used. If as final finishing painting is planned or wallpaper will be glued, then for better adhesion of materials, a primer is applied to the walls.

Visual alignment method

Very often it is not required to completely plaster all surfaces, sometimes it is enough to identify and eliminate problem areas in the form of protrusions and depressions “by eye”. This method is very efficient and allows you to achieve significant savings in time and materials.

The main attention is paid to such significant places as corners, doorways, ceiling and wall joints. The remaining planes are aligned using the rule, pressing it and simultaneously moving it along the surface, the presence of depressions is determined. After filling them with plaster, the excess is removed with a tool, re-wiring them to the walls. The application of the solution is carried out in several layers, each of which must be dried and covered with a primer on top.

Actions continue until the plane is flat and the rule is completely attached in the absence of recesses. After plastering, finishing putty is used as a final finish. After waiting for it to dry, the surface is polished with a special grater or sandpaper.

The visual method is complex and requires some skill, so it is used only experienced builders. But all the work can be done in a short period of time and, if the partition has a slight slope, an acceptable result can be obtained. As a result, all the main decorative elements (skirting boards, baguettes) will be perfectly even.

The use of plasterboard structures

Due to the complexity of plaster leveling, more and more often, the GKL installation option is chosen as the main way to eliminate irregularities. This is also true if the house is wooden and the use of leveling solutions is impossible.

The main advantages include the following points:

• can quickly fix very crooked walls;
• ease of working with a surface of any material (concrete, gas blocks, brick, wood);
• the frame method allows you to improve the soundproofing properties and carry out additional wall insulation.

Disadvantages of using drywall:

• the partition reduces the internal volume of the room;
• even moisture-resistant material loses its initial characteristics upon prolonged contact with water;
• increased requirements for fine finishing, which includes the need to reinforce the seams with a mesh, followed by puttying and grouting the surface;
• additional assistance is required, since it is difficult to carry out installation on your own, especially in the absence of proper experience.

Sheets are mounted in two ways: frame and frameless. Each has its own technology, scope. The first option involves the installation of crates, it is carried out with a significant curvature of the walls, during installation additional insulation, soundproofing the room, as well as when it is necessary to hide the wires.

Step-by-step instructions for arranging a drywall construction:

• Wallpaper, the “moving” parts of the old coating, are removed from the surface.
• Having drawn a line on the ceiling, mark the outer edge of the location of the sheets. Transfer the border to the floor using a plumb line.
• The position is marked on the walls. uprights(three units per sheet) and the attachment points of the suspensions necessary for adjustment.
• Having fixed the damper tape on the guides (using dowels every 30-40 cm), they are attached to the ceiling, floor.
• Having drilled holes in the wall, mount the suspensions.
• The vertical racks are fixed with self-tapping screws, checking their position with a level and pre-installing them in the guides. Then they are fixed on suspensions, bending the protruding parts to the sides.
• If necessary, in places of horizontal joints, additional jumpers are mounted, which add rigidity to the frame.
• Holes are drilled for switches, sockets, and chamfers of 45˚ are made at the joints of the sheets.
• Prepared drywall pieces ( required size) are fastened with hardware to the crate, slightly sinking the heads into the material.
• At the final stage, the surfaces are puttied and the wallpaper and tiles are glued.

GKL fastening with glue

With this method, if the planes are relatively flat and do not need preparation, the sheets are mounted directly on the base.

The order of work is as follows:

• The old coating is removed, the protrusions are knocked down and, having expanded the existing cracks, they are sealed with mortar.
• The walls are treated with a deep penetration primer.
• Prepare, cut drywall.
• A special glue is applied to each sheet in the form of strips along the perimeter plus several dotted elements inside it.
• The workpiece is pressed against the wall. Check its position relative to the plane and, if everything is in order, hold for a minute, waiting for the adhesive mixture to set.

It is very important to set the first skin element correctly, since all the others will be joined to it. To facilitate the task and prevent sheets from slipping, in the lower part at the level of the plinth, a rake is screwed y. It, holding the fragments in the right position until the glue is completely dry, will ensure reliable adhesion of the surfaces. Then it is removed and the installation site is covered with a plinth.

Before wallpapering, start finishing GKL:

• connecting seams are covered with reinforcing mesh and putty;
• after waiting for them to harden, with the help of a small sandpaper perform grouting;
• the surface is primed twice, taking a break in work until each layer is completely dry;
• before gluing the wallpaper, the plane is puttied again, but in the case of tiling, decorative stone it's not obligatory.

By correctly determining the amount of work to be done, the consumption of material and, having assessed the quality of the walls, it is possible to significantly simplify the repair. Indeed, with a slight curvature, there is no need to erect a frame and install GKL sheets. Then, to obtain the desired result, in order to eliminate small irregularities, it is enough to clean and level all surfaces with plaster.