Necessary building material concreting the floor in the garage. Concrete floor in the garage: how to cover the concrete floor so as not to dust with your own hands

Any garage owner knows how important a strong and reliable garage floor is. This is explained very simply - the floor has a serious load, which is much more than in residential premises. That is why the arrangement of the concrete floor in the garage must be given maximum attention so that the work is carried out with high quality. About how to properly concrete the floors in the garage, and will be discussed in this article.

It should be noted right away that the arrangement of the viewing hole and the floor is often carried out when pouring the foundation, since in this case the walls do not restrict movement. This option of concreting the floor has a limitation associated with the weather - the concrete hardens for a long time, and at the wrong time precipitation can ruin all the work.

concrete floor requirements

Equipping the floor of concrete, you need to monitor compliance with the requirements that apply to such a coating. If everything is done correctly, then the design will withstand both long-term loads and one-time loads (like a fallen key).

The concrete floor in the garage must meet the following requirements:

1. High strength. This indicator directly depends on the weight of the car, which will be in the garage. Knowing what loads will fall on the coating, and you need to equip the concrete floor.
2. Good resistance to aggressive chemicals. The floor of any garage is regularly exposed to fuels and technical fluids, which can seriously damage an unprepared surface.
3. The presence of a slope. So that the floor of the garage is not affected by moisture, it is necessary to ensure its removal. A sloping concrete floor prevents liquids from stagnation on the surface, and cleaning the garage in this case is much easier.
4. moisture resistance. Concrete itself does not have very good resistance to moisture, so this quality must be additionally compensated at the stage of arranging the coating.
5. fire resistance. Every garage contains flammable substances, so the flooring must be fire resistant.
6. Durability. Arranging a concrete floor takes a lot of time and effort, which indicates the need to create a high-quality structure that can last for decades.

When working, additional structural elements are often used to strengthen it. Ceramic tiles are most often used as a fine floor covering, but sometimes thin paving tiles are installed - this allows not only to increase the strength of the coating, but also improve its visual characteristics.

Materials and tools for concrete floor

To perform concrete flooring in the garage with your own hands, you will need a considerable set of materials and tools. Their list is as follows:

• Sand, necessary to create a sand cushion laid on top of the soil;
• Expanded clay or medium fractional crushed stone, which seals the base of the concrete structure and provides insulating properties;
• Reinforcing mesh for reinforcement and a 12 mm metal bar for installing beacons;
• Waterproofing material (roofing material, polyethylene film, etc.), which protects the concrete floor from the effects of groundwater;
• Cement, sand and gravel for mixing the solution with which the screed is poured;
• Brick from which the walls of the inspection pit are laid out;
• Metal corners laid on the edges of the pit;
• Self-leveling pourable mixture, which is sometimes used to create a finishing coating (more: "").

The list of tools is quite standard - for self-mixing you will need a concrete mixer, a shovel, as a rule, several different spatulas, a building level and a rammer. Equipping the finishing floor with the help of bulk mixtures, you will need to add a doctor blade and a needle roller to the list of tools.

It is also worth noting that when carrying out some work, the help of specialists may be required - for example, for reinforcement it is worth inviting a professional welder if there are no welding skills.

Arrangement of a viewing hole

With the fact that a viewing hole is a mandatory attribute of any garage, no car owner will argue. With the help of an inspection pit, both preventive and repair work is carried out, so it must be properly equipped.

The sequence of work is as follows:

1. First, a pit is prepared. It can be done at the stage of arranging the foundation, using special equipment - it will be much easier and faster. However, often the pit is dug out on its own, and this option has a clear advantage - the pit is created after the walls and roof are mounted, so you don’t have to worry about weather changes.
2. The next stage is the preparation of the bottom of the pit. The soil surface must be compacted using a rammer. Next, the bottom is covered with gravel and rammed, as a result of which a gravel cushion is created about 10 cm thick. In order for the resulting surface to be even, it is necessary to monitor its level, for which, along the perimeter of the pit, in increments of about 80 cm, it is necessary to install stakes with the required height.
3. When the gravel layer is compacted, sand is poured over it. The thickness of the sand cushion in the compacted state should be approximately 10 cm. After compacting the sand, you can move on.
4. The next step is the arrangement of waterproofing, which is necessary so that there is no dampness and mold in the garage. As a rule, when arranging the floor in the garage, a thick plastic film is used - its characteristics are sufficient to protect the structure from moisture. The sheet material must be laid in such a way that the overlap on the walls is about 50 cm. Construction tape is used to connect the individual sheets of waterproofing.
5. Next, the walls in the pit are equipped. For this, bricks or concrete mortar are used. In the first case, a reinforcing mesh is laid at the bottom of the pit, and the walls are laid out with bricks and plastered. Using concrete to create walls, you will have to use a reinforcing mesh throughout the area. In addition, when pouring walls with concrete mortar, the mesh is installed in two layers so that the distance between them determines the thickness of the walls (more: "").
6. After the reinforcement is laid on the floor of the pit, the structure is poured with concrete. To achieve maximum floor strength, you need to add gravel to the concrete solution. The floor of the inspection pit needs to be leveled, but it is not worth achieving a perfectly smooth surface - it is intended exclusively for walking.
7. When the solution hardens, formwork is mounted near the bottom of the wall. Its height should be about half a meter. Concrete is poured into the free space, and after it hardens, the formwork rises another half a meter and is poured again. The operation is repeated until the walls are completely filled.
8. The last part of the formwork must be installed in such a way that the level of the wall is equal to the calculated level of the finished floor. To fix the formwork between the walls, spacers must be placed. The formwork at each stage of pouring can only be removed after the solution has completely solidified.
9. Formwork must also be installed around the pit so that it coincides in height with the level of the finish. Reinforcement is mounted inside the structure, after which the formwork is poured with concrete mortar.
10. The frozen solution in the area around the pit must be overlaid with a metal corner around the perimeter. It is embedded in the solution, and the edges of the structure are connected by welding.

It takes about a month for concrete to completely solidify, but it is absolutely pointless to wait so long - you can immediately start arranging the main floor after pouring the inspection hole.

Preparation of the base for pouring

Before you concrete the floor in the garage, you need to prepare the surface for work. To do this, you will need to remove unnecessary soil and build a sealing pad. The quality of the future floor directly depends on the correct preparation of the surface.

The preparation algorithm looks like this:

1. The soil is loosened around the inspection hole - after that it will be much easier to remove it and take it out of the garage. After clearing, the surface must be compacted to increase the density of the base.
2. Next, a gravel layer is poured, the thickness of which is usually in the range of 10-12 cm. Before compacting the base, it is necessary to calculate the height of the floor in advance - the final coating should be on the same level with the edge of the inspection hole. The gravel is covered from above with expanded clay or medium fractional gravel, after which it is once again rammed.
3. Next, you need to deal with the arrangement of waterproofing. The material for these purposes is usually rolled roofing material. Sheets are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm and fixed with construction tape. To connect the sheets, in addition to adhesive tape, you can use a moisture-resistant sealant or the welding method using a gas burner.
4. When arranging waterproofing, it is necessary to bring it to the walls, by about 25 cm. It is very important to cover the corners of the room with high quality. In the case of roofing felt, this will not be easy - the material is quite hard and does not bend well. The problem is solved with the help of wooden bars, with which sheets of roofing material are pressed against the corners.
5. A damper tape is glued to the bottom of the wall. Being located a couple of centimeters above the level of the finished floor, it helps to prevent the destruction of the material during temperature changes.
6. A reinforcing mesh must be laid on top of the waterproofing layer. Steel wire is often used to fix it together, but the best result can be obtained by welding. The grid is attached to the surface with brackets.
7. Beacons are placed on the grid. When installing them, you need to focus on the height of the viewing hole. Sometimes a metal corner is used as beacons, which lined the edges of the pit.

On this, the preparatory work is completed, and it remains only to wait until the solution under the beacons hardens. It is possible to fix the beacons by welding, and in this case it will be possible to fill the screed immediately after preparation.

Pouring concrete floor

Pouring a concrete screed is an important process that needs to be given no less attention than the previous steps. The correct creation of the screed allows you to achieve maximum strength and acceptable visual qualities of the coating (details: "").

Like all other stages of work, concreting the floor in the garage is carried out according to a certain algorithm.

The sequence of actions for filling is as follows:

1. First you need to choose the solution that will be filled. The most convenient option is to order a ready-made solution from a company specializing in this. However, this option usually turns out to be less profitable than self-preparation of a concrete solution.
2. In any case, pouring the mortar over the reinforcing mesh, it must be leveled with a shovel so that it is evenly distributed. When the level of concrete exceeds the height of the beacons, it must be leveled with a rule.
3. As a rule, the garage has a considerable area, so the filling has to be done in stages. This method is suitable even when pouring a ready-made solution. The floor surface is divided into parts, and each of them is poured separately. It is best to leave the sections conditional, not dividing them with formwork - the presence of seams in the screed is undesirable.
4. Making your own solution takes much more time and effort. In addition to directly mixing, the concrete will have to be moved independently to the prepared base. The concrete solution is made in a ratio of 1:3:3 (cement, sand and gravel, respectively). Water must be added gradually so that the solution acquires the consistency of sour cream.
5. The floor screed in the garage must have a thickness of at least 7 cm, so pouring with self-mixing concrete will require a lot of time. It will be much more convenient to work with assistants.
6. When leveling, it is necessary to periodically stick a shovel into the solution - this is necessary in order to remove the air that appeared in the concrete during mixing. If air is left in the screed, its strength will be significantly reduced.
7. After pouring the screed, you need to leave it for about a week so that it freezes. After that, it will be possible to safely walk on it and check the quality of the screed. Having found defects, it will be necessary to fill them with a self-leveling mixture. For the same purpose, you can use a self-prepared solution of sand, cement, building glue and special fibers.

It will take at least a month for the concrete to completely harden, after which the garage can be used. To finally complete the work, you need to cut off the protruding edges of the damper tape.

Additional screed processing

It is necessary to use the topping system during the curing of the screed. The ideal time is when the surface has hardened to such a state that the depth of the footprint when walking does not exceed 3 mm, and the screed itself is still wet.

It is at this point that you need to sprinkle the topping on the floor. It is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the floor. After a while, the mixture absorbs the liquid, and after that the floor is rubbed using a special machine. Grouting should be carried out until the mixture is completely connected to the surface of the screed. Similarly, repair the concrete floor in the garage, when required.

Before you concrete the floor in the garage, it is worth understanding some of the nuances that make the operation of the garage even more convenient.

1. When arranging, you need to pay attention to arranging the exit from the garage. The best solution would be to combine the exit with the garage floor. This section must be done with a slight slope, and when pouring, make reinforcement and hardening means.
2. If you do not use topping after pouring, then it makes sense to replace it with another coating. Often the garage floor is covered with ordinary floor tiles with a high strength class and good wear resistance.
3. A fairly popular material for finishing the floor in the garage is ordinary concrete paint. The use of such a coating increases the strength of the screed and improves its visual qualities. The main thing is to choose the right way to paint the concrete floor in the garage in order to reliably protect the floor.
4. Before laying tiles or applying paint, you need to treat the surface of the floor with a primer and wait until it dries.

Using these tips, you can get the most out of your garage in return.

Conclusion

The floor in the garage must be of sufficient quality and reliable - only in this case, the operation of the garage will be convenient and enjoyable. Properly concreting the floor in the garage takes time and effort, but the good result is worth it. If you approach the work on arranging the floor correctly, gradually performing the necessary operations, then there will be no problems.

A garage is a place that sooner or later appears in any car owner. In the garage, the car is left overnight, put in order and serviced, and you often have to spend a lot of time there. All this leads to the conclusion that the garage should be somewhat comfortable so that it can carry out any work without problems and not worry about the safety of your car.

One of the necessary elements of the garage is a quality foundation. About how to properly fill the floor in the garage with concrete, and will be discussed in this article.

garage floor requirements

Immediately it should be noted that certain requirements are imposed on the floor of the garage:

1. The structure must be non-combustible.
2. The floor must not let moisture into the room.
3. The floor must be sufficiently reliable and durable.
4. The coating must be able to withstand high loads and exposure to aggressive chemicals.

You can always add a few individual items to the list of mandatory requirements, for example, those related to appearance.

To date, there are a lot of floor coverings, but the clear leader, and by a wide margin from competitors, is the usual concrete flooring in the garage, which meets all the requirements.

Features of the concrete floor

A concrete floor is a simple and interesting design that has its own characteristics. You need to understand that concrete can not be used in all cases: for example, with a large slope of the surface, or if the groundwater level under the garage is very high.

A clear disadvantage of concrete is poor heat retention: in winter, the concrete floor will not retain heat at all, and this problem will have to be addressed. In addition, concrete, although it can withstand severe loads, is very easily abraded to a dusty state, so the atmosphere in the garage will be constantly filled with concrete dust. In part, this problem is leveled if the brand of concrete for pouring the floor in the garage is correctly selected, but it will not be possible to completely get rid of this problem.

Concrete is also distinguished by the fact that dirt, oil, gasoline and other substances that are always in the garage are well absorbed into it. Not only is it ugly and unhygienic, but the persistent smell of all these substances will also be mixed with the dust in the air.

However, these shortcomings can be avoided, or at least reduced in their severity. To do this, it is enough to follow the technology of pouring the concrete floor, which will be discussed later.

Concrete floor construction

The best option for the floor design in the garage is a solid reinforced concrete slab laid directly on the base surface. Of course, the cost of work, including renting a crane, hiring several workers and shipping a slab, will be quite high, but this option will be the easiest and fastest.

To save money, you can do all the work yourself. The advantages of this approach are obvious, as well as its main drawback - a lot of effort and time will have to be spent. In addition, the quality of the fill in this case will directly depend on the literacy of all stages of work.

Concrete in a garage is usually poured directly on top of the ground. There are two restrictions here:

1. If the garage is located too low, then there is a high risk of flooding with soil water. In this case, it is impossible to pour concrete directly onto the ground: in the near future, the coating will become unusable.
2. If the base surface is located at a large slope, then it will be necessary to equip the basement and all related structures.

If it was possible to minimize the impact of these factors, then you can engage in pouring concrete.

The construction of the concrete floor includes several layers:

• gravel;
• Sandy;
• reinforced concrete;
• waterproofing layer;
• layer of insulating material;
• Clean floor screed.

It is necessary to equip the concrete floor consistently in order to get the highest quality coating.

Foundation preparation

The first step is to prepare the foundation. To do this, you need to dig a hole, remove all loosened soil and equip a small sand and gravel cushion. To do this, the bottom of the pit is rammed and covered with clay. Next, a gravel layer is poured on top, the thickness of which varies from 30 to 80 cm.

Having leveled the gravel layer, it is necessary to remove the largest fragments remaining on the surface, after which the surface is once again rammed and covered with a layer of sand about 10 cm thick.

Installation of waterproofing

The next step is the arrangement of waterproofing. You can find a lot of modern materials on the market, but the cheapest and most effective is ordinary polyethylene film. It must be laid on the floor, covering its entire surface. At the joints, the film must be laid with an overlap so that there are no gaps through which moisture will pass.

However, in order to achieve complete tightness of the waterproofing layer, it is necessary to seal all joints with construction tape or similar material. In addition, the film must be positioned so that there is also an overlap on the walls: due to such laying, moisture from the soil will not be able to penetrate into the room at all.

Pouring subfloor

After laying the waterproofing, you need to equip the subfloor, which is the main and most durable layer of the structure. To create this layer, you need to fill with reinforced concrete. To create it, you need a metal mesh with square cells measuring 10x10 cm and a steel bar with a diameter of about 7 mm. The mesh will be installed at the bottom of the structure, but only after the formwork has been created.

The arrangement of the formwork depends on the size of the room and the prepared pit. If the garage does not have a large area, then a continuous formwork installed around the perimeter will be enough. The grid in a small room can be laid out on the entire surface entirely.

In a large garage, square formwork is best, which will be evenly distributed over the entire area. In this case, it will be much more convenient to adjust the height of the subfloor and evenly pour concrete, and the grid must be placed inside each section of the formwork.

In any case, after completing the installation of the formwork, you need to pour the solution into it and level it with the rule. When the mortar hardens, all formwork elements are removed, and the remaining gaps are filled with mortar and leveled to the rest of the level. Knowing how to level the floor in the garage with your own hands, you can save a lot of money.

It is important to know how to make a screed mortar. The optimal proportion is 1:3:3 (cement, sifted sand and crushed stone). Very often the question arises of what brand of concrete to pour the floor in the garage so that it comes out of the highest quality. Experts recommend using a brand of at least 400 M: then the characteristics of the floor will be acceptable.

When kneading the solution, you need to “guess” the right amount of water so that the resulting consistency is not too liquid, but not too dry. Properly mixed mortar will avoid problems associated with voids in the concrete screed.

Floor insulation

Polystyrene foam is most often used as a heater for a garage. Before installing the insulation, roll foam is laid on the floor, and the side with the foil should be on the upper side. Next, the penofol is covered with a heater, which is fixed with the appropriate fasteners.

Finishing screed

The last step is to create a finishing screed. A reinforcing mesh is installed on the insulation layer, on which beacons must be fixed to determine the level (read: ""). It is advisable to set the level of the finished floor in such a way that a minimum slope towards the gate is formed: in this case, any liquid that has fallen on the garage floor will flow out of it.

The final screed in the garage is equipped using the same technology as the rough one. The height of the final layer is usually about 30-50 cm.

Before you fill the floor in the garage with concrete, you should study the following recommendations to make the highest quality and reliable coating:

1. The final screed should be coated with paint intended for concrete coating (details: ""). The paint will prevent the screed from chafing, but it will not last long, so the garage floor will have to be painted at least once a year.
2. Instead of paint, you can use strengthening compounds that need to be rubbed into the final screed until it is completely solidified. The use of such compositions can significantly increase the strength of the concrete floor.
3. Topping systems allow to increase the strength of the concrete screed and improve its visual qualities. By adding them to the mortar, you can increase the durability of concrete floors. The application of such material should be carried out in layers, and each time you have to wait until the bottom layer has completely hardened.
4. After applying each layer of material, the screed must be allowed to dry. It will take a lot of time for concrete to harden, but its quality in this case will be much higher. See also: "".

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself concrete pouring of the floor in the garage is a good and reliable solution. Of course, you will have to spend time to deal with all the points, decide what concrete to pour the floor in the garage with, how to properly carry out all the work, etc. Work on the arrangement will also take a lot of time, but a high-quality and durable coating is worth it.

A garage is a welcome purchase for a car enthusiast. To use this place conveniently, you need to take care of the finish and the base for installing the car. Filling the floor in the garage with concrete is the best way out, since a variety of effects on the surface are possible here.

The floor experiences mechanical loads, must withstand a large mass, not be damaged when a heavy tool falls, and retain its properties during temperature changes.

Estimation of cost and labor intensity

Pouring a concrete floor in a garage looks attractive on a number of criteria. Among them:

1. the ability to use any cement, reducing costs. Grade 400 is considered optimal, but pouring with mortar using 300 is also available if the garage is heated or there are no significant temperature fluctuations in the region in summer and winter;
2. if the floor in the garage is poured with concrete over the floor slabs - this option for creating a coating will allow you to complete the work quickly and with minimal investment;
3. it is not recommended to use brand 500 cement for screeding if the garage freezes through. This variety has two weaknesses: it gradually collapses under the influence of moisture and has a rather modest resource of freezing-thawing number;
4. pouring the floor in the garage with concrete must be carried out on a prepared base.

Before deciding to create a screed, you should carefully examine all the factors that will affect the coating. These include rising groundwater, freezing and swelling soils, and shallow foundations.

To neutralize specific problems, it is worth taking measures depending on the conditions of the current situation. However, the standard way that you can pour a concrete floor in a garage is suitable for most users.

Foundation preparation

In order to neutralize the effect of moisture from the soil as a result of the vertical capillary movement of water, to guarantee the stability of the base, to provide thermal damping and to obtain an even distribution of the load on the ground, it is necessary to create a multi-layer cushion. For this:

• the soil is removed to a depth of about 30 cm. This can be omitted if the floor level rise is not critical, for example, it is planned to equalize the height of the lower shelf of the gate and stop using the ramps to enter the garage;
• using a vibrating plate, the soil surface is carefully rammed. Before starting this process, tree roots, debris should be removed;
• backfilling of the first layer of the pillow is done. For it, gravel of medium and fine fractions is used. Tampering is carried out with a vibrating plate;
• the final layer is sand. Its thickness can reach 100 mm, the recommended minimum is 50 mm. After filling the sand, its surface is carefully leveled, intensively spilled with water, and compacted with a vibrating plate.

The tool does not need to be purchased. The vibrating plate can be rented, but its use is highly recommended. Careful preparation of the base is part of the answer to the question of how to properly fill the floor in the garage with concrete.

markup

The answer to the question of how to level a concrete floor in a garage is different from the options for residential or public buildings. It is necessary to create a mandatory slope of the surface in the direction of the drain zone or simply in the direction of the gate. Knowing how to fill the floor in the garage with concrete with a slope - you can achieve dryness, the absence of mold and other troubles.

Work is carried out after the base spilled with water dries out and there is no dirt. In the warm season, this takes from 1 to 2 days. The marking for the concrete floor in the garage is as follows:

• using a laser level, mark the level trajectories along the walls;
• in the corners, as well as in the areas where hatches, inspection pits and other objects are located, pegs are driven in. This should be done as close to the wall as possible so that they do not interfere with the installation of waterproofing;
• to achieve a normalized slope of 2%, the height of the pegs varies. At the lowest point of the surface, according to the plan, their height should correspond to the mark of the laser level and be 50-70 mm above the base. The height of the pegs at the highest point is calculated according to the rule: 15-20 mm are added for each meter of distance. For example, in a garage 6 meters long, the pegs farthest from the bottom point will be 12 cm higher than the nearest ones;
• a thread is stretched crosswise between the corner pegs. It will serve as a kind of beacon for leveling the surface.

If the configuration of the cultivated area is complex, there are hatches to the basement, a viewing hole - you can drive in additional pegs. It is necessary to carefully calculate their height depending on the distance from the reference point with the lowest level. A thread is also stretched between additional pegs.

After the markings are made and the thread beacons are stretched, it becomes clearer how to properly fill the floor in the garage with concrete. Before the production of the following work, the twine - lighthouses are removed.

Waterproofing and insulation

Eating one part of the answer to the question of how to make a concrete floor in a garage is to create waterproofing. At facilities where heating is carried out in winter, insulation under the screed is required. This is not done to prevent the garage from cooling down, but to lessen the impact of the temperature difference on the concrete. The work is carried out as follows:

• a roll waterproofer is spread on the base. Its type depends on the financial capabilities of the owner, acceptable results are achieved even with the use of inexpensive roofing material or glassine. Dense thick polyethylene film is also acceptable;
• laying is overlapped, each next strip overlaps the previous one by 10-15 cm;
• seams are sealed according to the rules for working with a specific roll material. For a polyethylene film, a wide adhesive tape is used, bitumen-containing waterproofing agents are processed with a building hair dryer for fusion in the overlap zone;
• waterproofing should be 10-15 cm on the walls, a similar exit height is made in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe hatch or the contour of the viewing hole.

Laying insulation in heated garages is done in a way convenient for the worker. You can use foam, mineral wool or slabs. To increase the life of the floor as a whole, the insulation is covered with another layer of waterproofing made of polyethylene film.

If you need a better result, use a one-sided permeable membrane, which must pass steam from the insulation to the screed. But such a solution is generally more expensive.

Reinforcement

Sometimes the question is asked how to make a concrete floor in a garage without reinforcement. The answer sounds simple: a standard technique, a thick layer of screed. But this is inefficient in terms of cost and labor intensity. You will have to spend a huge amount of mortar, make damper seams with a grinder. Therefore, a reinforced screed is preferable.

A chain-link can be used to strengthen the screed. But for good results and ease of work, it will need to be laid with a stretch, with a compensation gap to waterproofing, which is inconvenient to do on the basis of a sand and gravel cushion.

The screed is reinforced with a metal mesh, the mesh size of which is 50 mm. It is laid on top of the waterproofing and placed with an expansion gap of at least 30% of the total thickness of the future concrete coating.

Solution preparation

You can fill the screed with an ordinary cement-sand mixture. Preparing it is quite simple. To do this, cement grade 400 is mixed with sifted building sand in a ratio of 1: 3 (cement-sand). In the case of using a lower grade, for example 300, the amount of sand is reduced to a ratio of 1:4 and even 1:5. The plasticizer of the solution is milk of lime, which should be about 10% of the amount of cement.

Many people solve the issue of finishing coating is radically simple. Ceramic tiles are laid on a concrete screed in the garage, if there is no danger of a constant fall of the tool. Shows good results, but the cost of the solution is high. It is rational to use rubber plates.

Everyone can fantasize and implement ideas, because there is already a strong and durable floor, the task of the finish coating is only to reduce the amount of dust and extend the life of the base.

The climate of the room and, accordingly, the storage conditions of the car depend on the quality of the floor in the garage. For this reason, the soil is covered with a reinforced concrete screed in compliance with a number of rules, which will be discussed.

When should the floor be concreted?

Flooring will have to be done if the garage is built of blocks, bricks or cast-in-place concrete. In such a wall, they are mounted on a foundation, soil remains inside the perimeter, on which it is inconvenient to store a car:

• the humidity level constantly jumps in the room;
• wheels get dirty;
• in winter the soil will be cold.

Even if you fill the base with rubble, comfort will not increase: it is inconvenient to walk on such a floor and service the vehicle.

You don’t have to think about concreting if a slab foundation was built during the construction of the garage, which also serves as a floor. Mortar coating is also not useful for metal boxes.

Renewing the coating or the entire floor should also be done if the concrete is outdated, cracked and has lost its tightness.

Foundation preparation

To make concreting on the ground, the base should be prepared:

• The top fertile layer must be removed if this was not done when preparing the base for the foundation of the garage.
• When determining the depth of the pit, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the embankment of sand and gravel - this is approximately 15-20 cm, add to them the thickness of the screed itself - 100-150 mm and insulation (minimum 50 mm). That is, from the ground base to the floor level is about 30-35 cm.
• After removing the fertile layer, the soil should be compacted with a vibrating plate or a hand roller.

The composition and laying of the floor

In order for the floor to be strong and durable, it is necessary to follow the technology of work. Next, we give a step-by-step guide, following which everyone can equip the floor in the garage with their own hands without the involvement of specialists.

The design of a good floor in the garage is a "pie" of the following layers:

1. Bulk cushion of sand and gravel.
2. Waterproofing.
3. Insulation.
4. Frame (welded mesh).
5. Concrete screed.

Stage 1: loose pillow

Under any screed on the ground, it is necessary to arrange a pillow:

• First, 10-15 cm of crushed stone is poured, which acts as a drainage for incoming water,
• Next, sand is laid in a layer of 5-10 cm and carefully compacted with a vibrating plate.

If possible, 1 layer of geotextile should be laid between the sand and gravel, which will prevent the fractions from mixing, which means they will better perform their functions: drainage and drainage of water, compensation for pressure coming from the ground.

For the convenience of subsequent installation and obtaining the most effective result for sand, a thin layer of concrete screed is arranged with a solution of low grades (M75, M100). The thickness of such a fill is about 2-3 cm.

Stage 2: waterproofing

Despite the presence of a drainage layer, a waterproofing device is necessary. As a material, you can use any rolled analogue of roofing felt: technoelast, rubemast, stekloizol, etc.

The sheets should be laid overlapping, working through the joints with a gas burner to achieve absolute tightness. The optimal coating thickness is 2 layers. It is necessary to bend the rolls around the perimeter of the pit to the height of the screed to the floor level.

With a low location of groundwater under the garage, roofing materials can be replaced with a thick plastic film. It will protect the concrete from the leakage of cement laitance.

Stage 3: warming

The insulation layer will help to avoid freezing of the floor in winter and maintain a comfortable climate in the garage.

Rigid foam plastic is suitable for insulation - it does not dampen, withstand compressive loads, is resistant to chemicals, is not affected by insects, and lasts a long time.

Laying of plates is carried out on waterproofing in 1 layer. The thickness of the mats should be at least 50 mm, if possible more. It is especially important to work out the perimeter of the pit, where the impact of cold soil and air is most intense.

Floor insulation is not always done: if the garage walls are solid with a deepening below the freezing level and the foundation is insulated, then this step can be skipped. It is recommended for shallow foundations.

Stage 4: laying the frame

Reinforcement is designed to compensate for the load coming from the car. As you know, concrete does not work well for bending, therefore, without a frame mesh, the floor will become covered with cracks and become unusable.

For reinforcement, you will need a welded wire mesh with a diameter of 7-8 mm with a cell side of 10-15 cm. This can be bought ready-made. Laying nets must be done with an overlap of 1 cell, for reliability, tying the products with wire or clamps.

In order for the frame to be located in the screed, and not under it, it is necessary to place stones or pre-made concrete cubes 2-3 cm high under it. They must securely fix the position of the grid during pouring before the concrete begins to harden.

Some craftsmen prefer to concrete the screed in 2 times: first, the first layer is laid, then the mesh is placed on it, after which the final screed is made. This is not the most convenient and correct method:

• Firstly, it is inconvenient to lay the mesh until the underlying concrete has set;
• Secondly, there is no full-fledged adhesion of the mesh to the concrete layer, respectively, its functional tasks are not implemented.

Therefore, the mesh should still be laid on a substrate (cubes) and poured into a monolithic floor.

Stage 5: preparation and installation of the screed

A team of 2-3 people should work with the screed.

The first step is to set the beacons - slats with the thickness of the future screed layer, taking into account the height of the frame (for example, the projected total thickness of the concrete floor = 10 cm, subtract 3 cm on the substrate for the reinforcing mesh and its diameter is 7 mm, multiplied by 2. We get a rail with a thickness of 5 -60 mm). Guide beacons are laid in the direction from the far wall of the garage to the exit, stepping back from the side wall about 1 meter. The distance between the rails is approximately 1 meter. You will also need an additional flat rail or long rule to control the evenness of the surface.

Lighthouses can be omitted if the floor area is small. Then a projection of the level of the screed should be made on the wall for the convenience of its control.

Along the perimeter of the garage space along the walls, it is necessary to lay a compensation damper tape.

Components for the solution:

• Portland cement M400 or M500;
• River clean sand;
• Crushed stone fraction 10-20 mm;
• Water for mixing the solution.

For concreting the floor in the garage, concrete of at least grade M250 is required. To prepare it, you need to take the components in different proportions:

1. For cement M400, the ratio of cement, sand and gravel is 1:2:4;
2. For cement M500, the ratio is 1: 2.5: 4.5.

To improve performance (strength, chemical resistance, abrasion resistance), plasticizers for concrete can be added to the solution.

The amount of solution must be calculated in advance. For example, for a garage of 4 × 6 meters, we calculate the volume according to the standard formula (in meters): 4 × 6 × 0.1 \u003d 2.4 cubic meters. The value should be rounded up to integers with the expectation of creating a slope of 1-2% for water flow (recommended).

Concrete must be mixed in a concrete mixer. It is necessary to concrete the floor at a time (!) To obtain a homogeneous and strong base. Therefore, you should estimate whether one mixer will cope with the selected volume.

Laying the mortar starts from the far corner of the garage between the slats towards the exit, compacting it in parallel with vibrators and leveling it. The best option is to supply concrete with a pump, in its absence - with buckets, wheelbarrows and shovels.

Stage 7: protection and clearance

A garage is a place where destructive factors constantly affect the floor:

• vehicle weight;
• racks with tools and heavy equipment;
• chemical and petroleum solutions.

In such conditions, concrete should be provided with additional protection. You can do this in several ways:

• Ironing with dry cement can be done in parallel with pouring the screed - the binder is scattered through a sieve onto the laid surface and carefully rubbed;
• Impregnation with polymers that fill the porous surface and prevent the absorption of moisture and chemicals;
• Cladding with tiles or special rubber coating.

When choosing a cladding method, it should be borne in mind that the garage floor must be rough. This is necessary for the wheels to grip the base so that the car can stand in one place and not slide around the room. This is the safety for both the body and the owner / master when servicing the “iron horse”.

When building a garage, one of the most important elements is a high-quality and reliable floor. The concrete floor in the garage is considered to be the most durable. It is convenient to store, wash the car and repair it. Such a floor meets fire safety requirements and can withstand the weight of several cars. This article will help you figure out how to fill the floor in your garage so that it will serve you for many years.

Advantages of concreting

You can easily and efficiently pour the floor in the garage with your own hands. Independent work will be cheaper, since employees and special equipment are not required. The concrete type of pouring has been tested for years, it is very reliable and is often used in construction of any complexity.

Concrete screed in the garage has the following advantages:

• durable in use;
• resistant to mechanical stress;
• has high wear resistance;
• does not require additional care;
• resistant to automotive oils.

The comfort of being in the garage largely depends on whether the floor is done correctly.

The concrete floor can be painted or tiled. Such a topcoat will reduce the formation of dust under the wheels of the car, because it settles throughout the garage and brings discomfort to the owner.

Foundation preparation

Before the concrete pouring of the floor, the owner has already erected a strip foundation and walls. Inside the foundation, the top layer of soil is removed by 30-40 cm and the earth is compacted as much as possible. The preparation of the pit takes some time, but this will allow you to remove all the fertile soil and move on to creating a pillow under the base.

Special markings are made to evenly distribute the pillow of sand and gravel. For this, wooden pegs or reinforcing bars and a cord are used. The cord connects the opposite rods with the letter "X".

Preliminary and mandatory work - removal of the fertile layer, up to clean soil

Zero mark

We got a shallow pit and marked it with a cord, which will allow us to lay a pillow of sand and gravel evenly. Before backfilling the pillow, you need to set the thickness to which materials will be poured under the base of the screed. For this, the zero level of the floor is determined. Often, the floor screed is equalized with the threshold of the gate, this contributes to the convenient arrival of the car.

It is necessary to determine the thickness of the future concrete base and not occupy it until pouring. If you have chosen a screed with a thickness of 10 cm, then 10 cm is counted down from the threshold of the gate using a tape measure. After determining, the zero level is marked along the entire perimeter of the walls. To do this, builders use a laser level. It allows you to easily and simply mark the distance, but you can perform this process using the usual building level.

Calculation of the thickness of the PGM layers

After marking the zero level, it is important to determine the thickness of all layers in order to reach the desired marked level. On average, the layers are:

1. The minimum thickness of the concrete screed is about 7 cm. It is suitable for a light car, if there are several cars or heavy vehicles, the thickness of the solution should be up to 15 cm.
2. The layer of crushed stone can be from 5 to 10 cm. Instead of crushed stone, you can use.
3. The layer of river sand reaches from 5 to 10 cm.

The calculation of the thickness of the layers is selected individually. It depends on the height of the laid foundation, on the availability of building materials and the budget of the builder. For a layer of waterproofing materials, a thickness of 2 cm is left, if thermal insulation of the floor is provided, space is left for it. The total thickness of the pit ranges from 30 to 40 cm.

Bedding materials

The following materials can be used for backfilling:

You can calculate how thick the layers are needed to reach the desired height

• river sand;
• a layer of crushed stone or a layer of expanded clay;
• gravel;
• Sand and gravel.

Each of the layers removes water from the concrete screed, and is also used as a leveling layer. Crushed stone should be of a large fraction, 30–40 mm each. Most often, river sand is used, but quarry sand can also be used. Expanded clay is laid only if it is necessary to level the base under the screed, it absorbs water and is not used to drain water. If the soil has a high groundwater level and the ground is wet, only sand and gravel are used.

All bedding materials must be properly compacted. Broken bricks and used building materials cannot be used to create a pillow, as they cannot be reliably compacted. Some, when pouring, make a slight slope of the floor in the garage by 2% in the direction of the gate to drain water. However, many builders refuse it, since in winter such water freezes and freezes to the gate.

Making a pillow under the concrete floor

At this stage, it is necessary to pay special attention to the compaction of the soil. It is important that the earth becomes as dense as possible before filling the pillow, and a manual rammer or vibrating plate will help with this.

The following stages of falling asleep pillow under the screed:

1. The pit is filled with crushed stone in several portions. Each portion is securely packed.
2. Sand is poured over the rubble in several stages. Sand should fill well all the empty space between the grains of crushed stone.

Each layer of sand is easily soaked with water for better strength and compaction.

For a normal concrete floor in the garage, it is better to take not gravel, but crushed stone

damper clearance

To fill the space between the wall and the screed, a damper tape is laid around the entire perimeter of the room. This edging tape is sold in rolls of various thicknesses. The most optimal for floor screed is a tape of 10 cm.

The damper tape not only fills the space between the screed and the wall, it creates additional heat and sound insulation. The edging tape can be shot with a stapler or glued with special adhesive tape, some builders simply fix it to the wall with mortar. After pouring the screed, the rest of the edge tape, which remains on top, is cut off with a knife at the floor level.

Waterproofing a concrete floor in a garage

Waterproofing the concrete floor in the garage is a very important stage of work. Excess moisture adversely affects the car and contributes to the formation of fungi, mold and rust. For better protection, waterproofing layers are laid on a cushion of crushed stone and sand.

If the budget allows, waterproofing occurs in this way:

1. The pillow is poured with a thin layer of concrete mortar.
2. On top of it, waterproofing is carried out with hot bitumen.
3. Two layers of roofing material are overlapped on the resin and reinforcement is carried out.

To save the budget, garage floor waterproofing can be done without a thin layer of concrete and hot bitumen. Then a roofing material or a dense plastic film overlapping in several layers is laid on the pillow.

The choice of materials for waterproofing depends on how close the groundwater is and how high it can rise in season.

Reinforcement

So that the concrete does not sag under the weight of the machine, the floor screed is always reinforced. Reinforcement allows:

• strengthen the base of the floor;
• increase the compressive strength of the screed;
• reduce the number of mechanical loads on the floor;
• reduce the appearance of cracks.

Reinforcement is carried out using a reinforcing mesh with a rod diameter of 9 mm, and the dimensions of the mesh cells are 15 mm. The reinforcement is adjusted to special supports, since the mesh must be inside the concrete screed. The mesh is overlapped and interconnected with a special wire.

Installation of beacons

Controls allow you to fill the floor as evenly as possible. Ordinary wooden bars can become beacons. After installing the reinforcing mesh, we take the bars and set them parallel to the walls. Beacons are set at zero level. The distance between the bars should be a convenient rule for leveling the concrete mixture.

After installation, it is settled on two parallel beacons with a water level and the bars are leveled as much as possible. Some builders use a thread during the pouring process, which will control the evenness of pouring concrete. Beacons are installed in stages during the pouring process.

Any flat and long objects can be used as beacons.

pouring concrete floor in garage

The fastest way to concrete the floor in the garage is with the help of an ordered mixer with ready-made concrete. This will simplify the process of work, save time and effort. However, you can pour the concrete floor with your own hands. Such independent work needs additional helpers and a concrete mixer.

Most often, concrete grade 300 or 400 is ordered. The thickness of the solution should reach 7-10 cm. To prepare the concrete mix, you will need:

• cement M500;
• river sand with granules up to 2 mm;
• crushed stone fraction 10–20 mm.

The proportions of concrete for pouring the floor in the garage:

1. One bucket of cement is mixed with two buckets of sand.
2. The components are filled with water to the consistency of sour cream.
3. Four buckets of crushed stone are added and stirred as much as possible.
4. Before pouring, you can add a hydraulic additive.

For subsequent finishing, filled with . Floor polishing should be done no earlier than a week after pouring. For this, professional equipment or an ordinary grinder with a diamond bowl is used.

Grade of concrete for the floor in the garage - M250

Protective covering

After work, the top layer of the floor screed will be subjected to daily stress. This will lead to the destruction of the top layer, the formation of dust and the appearance of cracks in the future. To prevent this from happening, the flooded floor is treated with a protective coating.

Protection of the concrete floor in the garage is created using polyurethane and epoxy compounds. Some prefer rubber paint for concrete floors. Such compounds are applied after the floor screed has completely dried. a very long time. It is important to ensure that it dries completely so that cracks and deformations do not occur in the future. One centimeter of concrete thickness dries for seven days, and this is only for the first four centimeters of the screed. Subsequent centimeters dry even longer. A 10 cm screed is best left to fully solidify for two months.

Curing

For high-quality hardening of the floor base, you need to create the right conditions in the room.

Try to save the room as much as possible:

• from drafts;
• from direct sunlight;
• from sudden changes in temperature.

To prevent moisture from evaporating quickly, the first week the concrete screed is watered. Then the concrete is covered with plastic wrap so that the surface dries gradually and evenly.

During the week, the stove should be watered daily.

Insulated concrete floor in the garage

Concrete heated floors keep the right temperature in the room for proper storage of the car. Since the ground freezes heavily in winter, high-quality thermal insulation will extend the life of the car.

It is possible to qualitatively and cheaply insulate a concrete floor with the help of foam sheets. They are settled under the screed on the waterproofing layer close to each other. The most important thing at the initial stage of digging a pit is to take care of the additional thickness for the foam. On average, a layer of thermal insulation takes about 20 mm. Another layer of waterproofing film is laid on the laid insulation and reinforcement is carried out.

A garage with a basement is popular as it effectively saves space. Before construction, it is important to study the soil and groundwater level at the construction site. The bottom of the basement is covered with a layer of rubble and sand, processed with bituminous mastic. Particular attention is paid to the hydro- and thermal insulation of the basement floor and walls. To prevent an increase in the level of humidity in the room, take care of reliable ventilation of the basement.

The overlap must be very reliable, because it will withstand the load of the car. The highest quality and most durable flooring is considered to be a concrete slab using a massive reinforcing frame. If the cellar is the size of a viewing hole, you can block it with wooden boards.

In order to, you need to decide on its type (single or gable). The gable roof is practical, it will allow you to equip the attic and store the necessary tools and materials. Slate, corrugated board and metal tile are the most popular for overlapping.