How to mount polyurethane beams to the ceiling. Selection and installation of ceiling beams

• Many homeowners seek to build their country houses Alone. It comes the moment when they face a question, is it possible to build the roof itself and how to do it. In any case, it is important to remember that this work is quite time-consuming, requires a competent approach and a clear retention of a certain sequence.

  One of important stages The construction of the roof is considered proper installation and fixing Murlat. This is a certain support that perceives part of the force generated by the roof design.

  Installation

  For the device, murlati use wooden bars that are placed in a plane parallel to the future skate. It is started to install during the construction of walls. For example, in the case of brickwork, you can do as follows:

  • closer to the top, about 4-6 rows below the edge, with a periodicity of 1 m, a thick wire is paved;
  • The wire is firmly fixed inside the masonry in the center;
  • The lengths of the free ends should be enough to subsequently without problems reach and tie the support bar;
  • After completing the construction, the visible parts of the fastener are hiding, for example, applying plaster layer.

  On a note

  Maurylalat is installed with a minimal indentation from the edge of the walls. It should be more than 10 cm.

  To prevent the murlat beams not allow, it is waterproof by paving rolled material Type Ruberoid.

  Arriving Mauerlat along the perimeter of the walls, it is necessary to check not only the reliability of fixation, but also the horizontal of the support bar.

  Do Mauerlat need if there are beams

  

  When hanging rafters rely on the bars of overlaps, which are laid directly on the wall, then with such a device there are serious point efforts affecting building construction. As a rule, such an approach is practiced when erected wooden house. In this case, it is justified, since due to the horizontal location of logs and bars used in the construction of walls, the loads that they test are evenly distributed.

  For brickwork or when using cellular blocks, retained pressure may be destructive - in places where the bars of overlaps are located, the walls with the edge begin to crumble. For this reason, the pressure should dispersed. To do this, it is recommended to put murlat, which is performed from thick wooden bar. Thus, a positive answer to the question, whether Mauerlat under the beams of overlapping in such structures is not subject to doubt.

  If the roofing design provides conjugation of rafters and overlapping, then must be provided reliable fastening Overlapping beams to Mauerlat. The latter will actually be entrusted with an unloading function.

  Fastening sequence

  After the arrangement, Murlat goes to laying and fastening ceiling beams To Mauerlat.

  • Parameters such as the cross section of the structure of the structure and the installation step is calculated when designing the house based on the optimal section and the step of the rafter. For example, if the rafters are supposed to be made from 5 cm boards, then the distance between these elements is chosen equal to 0.6 m. It optimal option, especially since the width heat insulating material Also equals 0.6 m.

  

  

  How to fix

  

  Elements of overlapping after tie in murlat are fixed with each other using nails, steel perforated corners for screws or screws.

  To start the beam temporarily fixed. It's easy enough to do it. Not far from their ends in the transverse direction lay the board, even two are better, and nails, using nails. If you put two boards nearby, then movement overlaid in the process of the roof device will be much simplified.

  Temporary fixation increases the reliability of the main, as it does not allow the details to shift.

  In conclusion, see how to mount the beams to Mauerlat video:

And installing special beams from the bar, you need to withstand the distance of 50 cm between them. Performing this very responsible work, it is necessary to envisage that all the elements of the design are brought from frame racks. When the ceiling is carried out, we usually use wooden structures with whole length, without junctions. Then the load will be clearly transferred overlabes and, accordingly, carrier walls. At the same time, the installation of ceiling beams should be thought out to the smallest detail.

The distance between the ceiling beams from the timber should be 500 mm.

Typically, the installation of the design is performed by the smallest side of the house.

Inside the building, under ceiling wooden structures set the support racks. In this case, the installation must be carried out so that their location corresponds to the planned device of partitions in the house.

In the construction project, the materials required when installing and installing the shelf beams with their own hands should be specified.

Materials used

The diagram of the device of the beam ceiling with thermal insulation

1. Lumber.
2. Glued materials.
3. Adhesive materials.
4. Screw sheets edged.
5. Plywood.
6. Brux or logs.
7. Solid beams.
8. Boy shoes.
9. Nails.
10. Corner fasteners.

In addition to standard Set Working tools for mounting with their own hands, you must have other additional tools.

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Tools required for the construction of a wooden ceiling structure

1. Motor saw (manual circular saw).
2. Nivera tube.
3. Pneumatic hammer.

To correctly strengthen the main element of the wooden frame design To the walls of the house with their own hands, it is necessary to cut the grooves from the two ends of the beam, the width of which coincides with the width of the bar located in the upper strapping. This groove should have a depth of equal to ½ beam width. When installing it at the appointed place, it is required to make a solid fixation of nails.

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Conducting the ceiling frame design

Sometimes, if necessary, the boards are paired among themselves, laying one on top of another, and then drill through a hole and fasten them with bolts. To reduce the hassle and acceleration of the result, when installing can be used by the timber.

Having installed rafters, you can start the installation of ceiling beams and start mounting wooden carcass. There are cases in which the initially installed beams are a point of foot support. But most often the rafters are attached to them. Good for making your own hands the main element wooden design Ceiling frame to use a timber with a cross section of 200 * 200 mm. But the main thing is that the bar for such installation has a greater cross section compared to the fact that is inside the walls. Here the goal is pursued here to make the ceiling of the ceiling in the most extreme walls.

Initially, the installation starts from installing a wooden structure from the edges, after which it is gradually fill it all free spacelocated between them. This method was called "Lighthouse". It is necessary to ensure that they do not break the parallel. This condition is one of the main, because when installing rafters, they focus on the beams. If there is no parallelism, it will immediately be a violation of the geometric component of the entire ceiling. When installing, the beams must be from each other at a distance from 800 to 1400 mm. Begin to attach the boards to the lags of the ceiling from the wall of the building. Thanks to this it will be more convenient to poison the punch of one board with a groove of another. Well, if before starting the installation of the supports themselves, make a preliminary markup on the floor, and then it is laying a bar. The correctness of their stacking is desirable to check using a construction level.

Installation and installation of a wooden frame structure implies adherence to accuracy and clarity, since the slightest violation of the laws of geometry can lead to irreparable consequences. These errors may entail the wrong effort to calculate, after which the walls can be spread as a result of a side load at a certain point. Wooden ceiling structures must be fixed to the wall. This fixation can be made using a nail-two-time, which is clogged to a depth of 0.75 beam thickness into a pre-prepared hole or a pin can be used for this purpose. Sometimes it uses wooden or metal spikes for these purposes. In order for the fixation to be better, it can be used for mounting a bracket made of metal tape. Outside the outer surface of the wall, it is necessary to leave the beams, somewhere on 35-40 cm.

If you now come close to the question of choosing a design rafter system, First of all, you need to decide exactly how you will transmit the load from the roof - to the house. For example, in the classic scheme of the device of the rafter system, the rafter is evenly described by the ends on the wall or mauelalat, throughout the perimeter or on both sides, depending on which form of the skate. But often today rafters are attached directly on the beams of overlapping the attic, and not to Mauerlat, and this technology has its own valuable advantages.

And how to install the roof rafters on the beams of overlapping, which exist technical solutions And how to perform such attachment nodes - we will now tell.

Of course, the construction of the roof with Mauerlat is more understandable and logical, because This method is practiced for a very long time and studied, but the support of the rafter on the beams you need to learn, and so much useful informationAs our site provides, you will not find anywhere.

But when you need such a rafter system and what are the difficulties, you ask? See, the approach is indispensable when:

• the construction facility has quite fragile walls and they are difficult to lay Mauerlat;
• on the old house rebuilding the roof is rebuilt, and the hedgehog is already old;
• the rafter system is quite complex and intermediate supports are needed, and there are no such houses inside the house;
• for the one who builds the house, this method itself seems more acceptable.

And still real mansard roof It is difficult to imagine without support rafters right on the beams outside the walls:

Convinced? Believe me, this technology has as many advantages as the classic.

How to create a reliable base for rafters?

The first step that you need to do is build durable base For such rafters. For example, if the overlap beams there is no backup (at least in the form of an intermediate wall of the house), then the rafter farms need to be organized on it only on the principle of hanging. If there is a support, the rafters can be safely described directly to the beam without any auxiliary elements.

Speaking simple languageif the beam in anchor overlap Installed reliably and has its own supports, it can be installed on it and rafters, and if all this is not, then the rafter makes sense to connect to the beams themselves and suspend as a single system. Otherwise, before the roof construction, you need to patch the beams from the inside of the room, for which there are three different construction methods:

• SAMI simplethe classic backup consists of a tightening, one sidebarls and pods. The tightening is suspended in the middle. Such suspended systems are used today most often with large spans.
• Double The backup consists of a tightening, suspension, two boards and a riglel, which serves as a strut between the boards.
• There is even tripoe The backup, which represents the individual three suspension systems, or one double suspended system And one simple. This is a complex rafter system.

Here's how such systems look like:

Ideally, if you can also calculate such beams for deflection and stretching, as far as they are willing to keep all the roof. To do this, there are special online calculators and formulas, although it will also be enough to invite an experienced carpenter for your own calm.

Methods for connecting rafters with beams

So, you have two main ways:

1. To establish the overlap beams first, mounted them into the walls, thereby creating a sprinkling solo system.
2. Collect the rafting farms on the ground and raise on the roof ready, while the lower tightening of farms will simultaneously serve as a support-beam for the future attic overlap.

In each of these methods, there are pluses-minuses, but the attachment methods are used different - for farms, it usually goes to fasten with metal or wooden plates, and for the assembly on the roof - the spill and wrinkle on the spike.

Hanging rafters: tightening and beam in one role

If we are talking about a small construction facilityAs a garage, a bath or cabinet, it is enough to make a rafter farm on Earth, and already then raise them on the walls of the construction, consolidating on the special pins of Mauerlat. Here the beams of overlapping is an integral part of the farms themselves, and this one is the case when the tightening in the farm also serves as a support of the attic overlap.

But how it is implemented in practice:

But about the options when the rafters are based on the beams of overlapping, and do not create a single system with them, we will figure it out more than more detail.

Slot rafters: Support on beams at several points

Here modern Master Class The construction of the classic roof for the attic, in which the rafters rest on the beams of overlapping right on the roof, and do not build farms on Earth:

Here the beams of overlapping are no longer part of a single rafter farm, but an independent element on which the entire rafting system is based on. Moreover, the support occurs not only on the sides of the beam, but also throughout its length.

How to set rafting legs on the beams of overlapping?

As soon as the ceiling beams are ready for the installation of rafters on them, proceed to the manufacture of the rest of the design and the connection of the rafted with beams.

To connect the rafter foot with the beam, its end is cut under the desired angle, or make a more complex word on the spikes. Let's look at both such options.

Connection of rafters with beam without wrinkling

You can do without anything, if you use the fasteners, this is a normal solution. So, to make a simple cut on the rafters, make a template:

• Step 1. Take a construction kit and attach it to the board.
• Step 2. Mark the place of the cut at the top of the rafter.
• Step 3. With a joinery transporter, draw a parallel line to the first saw across the rafter. This line will help you determine the line from the weight on the edge of the building.

This is how it looks in practice:

Make such rafters is much easier than for writing. The main thing is to correctly determine the angle of inclination of the roof and right place Future cut:

As a result, in life such a design looks like so duscal roof:

Types of obscons of the rafter foot in the beam overlap

The fastening configuration itself more depends on the angle of inclination. For example, for roofs with steep slots, where snow load - Small, you can apply a fastening with a single tooth. When the single tooth is used, additional spikes are often manufactured, which helps the rafters do not move under loads. And under such a spike, you will need a nest in the beam.

But, probably you know that any such places can weaken the beam, and therefore their depth should be no more than 1/4 thickness of the beam and no closer than 20 cm from the edge of the beam (so that the chip is not formed).

But if you have a roof with a slope of less than 35 degrees, then it makes sense to use a double tooth, because such a fastener allows high strength nodes. As in the previous embodiment, you can add two spikes.

With this method, each tooth can be both the same depth and different. For example, you can only bring the first tooth on 1/3 of the thickness of the support beam, and the second is half:

The bottom line is that the two rafter legs in the design with support on the beams are fastened. But, if the ends of these legs will slide, then the tightening integrity will be quickly broken. To prevent such sliding, insert, or rather, cut the rafter foot in the most tightness with the help of a tooth - with a spike or without it.

In the process of driving rafters at the end of the tightening, you need to push the tooth as much as possible. If you need to strengthen the attachment of such rafters, then use a double tooth. Another point: the teeth themselves can be of different magnitude.

And finally, it is desirable to fasten the end of the rafting legs with a twisted wire so that the wind can not disrupt such a roof. It is better to take galvanized as a wire, and secure it with one end to the rafter foot, and the other in the crutch, which is pre-layered in the wall masonry at a distance of 30-35 cm from the top edge.

Here good example a neat word of raftered on the tightening, which simultaneously serves as the beam overlap already in four-page roof:

Metal fasteners for such a node are still needed, because the word in itself cannot keep the rafter legs under load.

Types of fasteners for nodal connections with beam

Let's consider ways to connect rafters with a beam of overlapping:

One of the most reliable is a bolted connection, which uses a kit from a bolt, nut and washers. So, do everything step by step:

• Step 1. On the protruding end of the beam with its back side, make a triangular cutout so that its hypotenuse is at an angle as the angle of inclination of the rafter.
• Step 2. Here, under the same angle, put the lower part of the rafting leg.
• Step 3. Set rafters to the cut straight onto the beam and fix it with nails.
• Step 4. Now shoot through a bolt hole.
• Step 5. Put the bolt and fix the node with a nut.

Another quite acceptable option is to fix the raftered and the beam with a special metal mounting:

And here is an example of manufacture wooden fasteners For the same node:

If possible, fix such rafters on the beams of a wrought wire on a special anchor, which is mounted in the wall.

Additional design "Chair" for the backup of rafters on the beams

Sometimes the installation of the rafter on the ceiling beams is a rather complicated vent, in which the beams themselves are all 100% supporting for the whole roof, and it is important to check all possible as correct as possible.

In order for the very strong and practice itself quite strong and reliable, the so-called "chair" is used as the reference elements. These are the rafter parts that connect all elements among themselves, and in the context, it really looks like four legs stools:

In fact, the "chair" is a pitchpie that support runs to its entire height. Those. Such a "chair" usually contains vertical stands, inclined racks and short crackers. With its lower end of the rack, the chair is shed into the lower belt of the rafter system or lies perpendicularly, or immediately - in the beam overlap. Such chairs also have different speciesDepending on whether they rely on the beams or straight on the rafted.

Here is a good example of this series:

But this is an example of the unusual design of the rafter system, in which the rafters themselves are based on the beams of overlapping along, and across, and the structure of the so-called chassions of the backups is good.

Combined System: We Alternate Remier Springs

Today, this option is also practiced, which consists of several particularly durable farms located at a distance of 3-5 meters from each other, and the gap between them is filled with construction pairs.

In simple language, there are several powerful main farms on the roof, two or three, and they hold the whole run on themselves. And already in space between the main farms on such runs, ordinary rafters are based on a simpler scheme.

Those. Here on the beams of overlapping, not all rafters are based on, but only some, and the others rest on Mauerlat. So all load is remarkably distributed! And the concept of such a system is simple: the main farms are made according to the scheme hanging timber, and secondary rafter legs - according to the principle of the remarks, relying on the license plate:

In fact, the whole secret of such a combined system is that the sprinkled rafters are stacked right on triangular hinged arches. Thus, bending voltages completely disappear from hanging rafters, and only stretching remains. And this suggests that here you can significantly reduce the cross section of the rafter elements. In other words - to save!

As you already probably guessed, in your case, the method of supporting rafters on the beams of overlapping will depend on which object you are building: garage, bath, country house or a whole country complex. In any case, all these methods are tested, actively apply today in practice and deserve not less attention than the more familiar use of classical Mauerlat.

Photo
Ceiling beams as a decor element are installed in rooms to give the interior of originality and uniqueness. These may be the outward beams, and imitation depicting ceiling beams. In any case, each of them will create the atmosphere of comfort and heat in the room.

Fastening the polyuritan beam on the ceiling with bars and self-tapping screws.

Types of beams for ceiling

Ceiling beams are installed in different rooms, such as country houses, city apartments, etc. They are also used to distinguish between the zone, for example, separating the living room from the dining room. There are ceiling beams made of wood and polyurethane.

Planning wooden beams It is carried out in advance, i.e. Back at the design and construction of the house. The most common wood for their manufacture is the larch. Since they are made of natural materialsare environmentally friendly. Under such beams, you can easily hide all communications, wires and existing differences on the ceiling.

Placement of blanks for mounting decorative beams.

To disadvantages wooden elements It is possible that they have a significant weight, they are not so easy to install themselves. They are also susceptible to rotting, damage to microorganisms and have low moisture resistance.

Due to the fact that the beams are made of natural woodTheir natural beauty can be enhanced by grinding and impregnation with varnishes. You can create a noble view for them, giving the material artificial old age. And additionally they are decorated either by carvings or painting or ceramics.

Polyurethane beams are imitation of natural wooden elements. They are easy to install themselves, as they are small. Since they are made of artificial materials, have increased moisture resistance and are not subjected to rotting. Details made of polyurethane are manufactured by the P-shaped form, therefore communications and pipes are well under them. They can create as a smooth lacquered surface, and the old one fastened.

Ceiling beams: Harmony in style

Decorative elements on the ceiling in the form of beams can be used in different styles, ranging from the classics and ending with high-tek. If the interior is designed in elegant classic styleThe surface of the beams should be smooth and lacquered.

Scheme of the design of ceiling rams.

When presence in the interior of elements of luxury is best to paint them in light colors, for example, in tone of silver, and decorate carvings or painting. For the interior performed in modern style, apply the details with smooth surface. They can be painted as dark and bright huesand in a brighter mischief with the use of backlights on them.

In the style of high-tech (loft), beams painted paint with a metal effect, which are harmonized with brick masonry. If the house is decorated in a rural style, then decorate it is better than elements made under the old tree. In color, they can be both blond on a dark ceiling, and very dark with a rough finish on a light background.

French lovers rural style - Provence - for the decor it is better to use well-processed and elevated wood beams. Ethnic style is used either natural ceiling elements, or their imitation of polyurethane with the texture made under the wood.

The diagram of the device of the beam ceiling.

When choosing color Gamma. For the beams on the ceiling you need to observe harmony. So, for example, a design with a contrasting color solution is excellent. In this case, to highlight the decor, a combination of dark wood with a white ceiling is performed or vice versa.

And for more bright interior You can combine any colors, such as a yellow ceiling and blue beams, turquoise ceiling and white beams. It can be done so that the decorative element is one color with the surface of the ceiling. At the same time, the parts painted into the tone will give the room an expressive structure and visually increase the size of the room.

Choosing for decoration color solutionIt should be remembered that the beams installed on the ceiling must be combined with one of the elements of the interior of the color, for example, with a shade of furniture or floor-coated.

It should also be remembered that the dark decor looks cumbersome and gives the room a sense of graphics. The bright shades look lighter and sophisticated, giving a restrained cold atmosphere.

Installation of decorative beams

Read:

• metal profiles;
• screwdriver;
• liquid Nails;
• plasterboard or plywood.

Stages of installing decorative beams on the ceiling.

The beams look perfectly in rooms with high ceilings. In this case, to give comfort, the decorative elements are installed, retreating from the surface for some distance. In order to visually cover low ceilingThe design is performed, which smoothly moves to the walls, or they are located on the color of the beams.

With the help of the decor you can create the visibility of changing the geometry of the room. In this case in narrow rooms items are installed by their width, and to stretch the room - by the most long Wall. If only part of the room needs to be selected in the interior, then the beams can be positioned in the form of a Christmas tree or grille. Or with their help you can divide the room on the zone, having a decor on their junction and mounted the lamps into it.

Under decorative elements Easily hid all communications, such as wiring, pipes, etc. Therefore, lighting can be installed directly on them. To do this, you can cut the lamps directly in the beam or fasten on it using brackets. It looks very original design with an LED ribbon mounted on its upper part.

If installed suspended ceilingwhich closes the entire wiring, then the beam in this case will serve only the decor element. At the same time, it is possible to apply a different painting in the form of an ornament that needs to be duplicated on other elements of the interior. If the decor is located in the kitchen, then it can be placed on it special adaptation With suspensions (Reheling), which stores kitchen accessories.

Installation of polyurethane beams on the ceiling can be performed in several ways. If the decor has a heavy weight, then first in the places of its further installation there is a doom metal profiles or wooden Reques (timber). Then the beams are fixed on it with the help of screws. Lighter by weight elements are attached to the ceiling liquid nails. For greater reliability, a combined fastening method is used. At the same time, parts and glued, and fixed to the crate.

It is possible for the interior room to make a beam alone from drywall or plywood. To do this, the markup is performed on the ceiling, a durable frame of metal profiles is installed for each element. After that, the details are cut out of the material. required size. They are then screwed to the prepared frame using self-tapping screws. At the end, all the resulting boxes are processed with a putty, then the primer and further are covered with paint or fluttered with film under wood.

Light polyurethane rash balks are used to simulate ceiling beams made of wood. Externally, they absolutely do not differ from wood products, but are hollow inside. Therefore, the rash balks are used not only for decorative decoration, but also as boxes for wiring or ventilation hoses. Often in such products embed point backlight. Moreover, it is necessary to use only lamps, the power of which does not exceed 50W, otherwise heating can damage the beam structure.

Video: Installation of imitation ceiling beams.

Textures and colors of decorative beams

Dark Oak	Wenge	Cherry
Dark Oak	Dark Oliva	Light oak
Nut	Olive	Oak

Installation of rashballok

For fastening, the so-called wedge-bars are used for fastening. These are small elements of wood, the shape of which completely repeats the shape of the cross section of the beam cavity. They fasten such wedges with dowels and screws, screwing them down either directly through the middle of the product, or from the longitudinal side at an angle.

Install wedge-bars on a predetermined markup at a distance of 1m from each other. A glue for polyurethane is applied to the ceiling (along the location of the beam). It is not done to fix the simulation, but in order for after installing the beam, there are no cracks left.

After that, the rash balk is put on wedges and fasten with self-draws. If the room is large, and the beams are short, they are joined among themselves, and the joints of the joints are closed with decorative elements. Often, after mounting the fishelocks along the walls, polyurethane consoles are installed, which also do not carry the functional load and serve purely decorative elements.

Installation of ceiling curtains and plinths

Ceiling plinths are mounted very simple. They are fixed using the appropriate glue, tightly pressing to the ceiling and wall joint. In the corners, the plinths are cut under 45 °. Start mounting better from the corner.

Ceilingary eaves are used to hang the curtains directly from the ceiling level. Install them on an even base. First, the ceiling is applied to the ceiling, observing the same indents on both sides of the window. If the ceiling cornice has decorative cover, it is fixed before the start of installation. Then in the ceiling drilled holes and fasten the cornice with a dowel-nail.

The distance between them should be 60cm, indents from the edges of the cornice - order 2 cm. After that, the hooks for curtains are inserted into the cornco and close the corners with plugs.

Such eaves are awarded to drywall, "butterflies" to drywall. Sometimes ceiling eaves suspended on metal brackets, which are attached to the wall above the window. This is done in cases where it is impossible to fix the cornice to the basic ceiling (for example, with the finished tensioning overlap).