Is it possible to punch an opening in a self-supporting wall. Is it possible to match an opening in a load-bearing wall? Who can perform work to cut an opening in load-bearing walls

for work without garbage removal and reinforcement of openings 8000-12000 rubles
and 15000 rubles for work with a wall saw and a floor saw

• DIAMOND DRILLING HOLES
  1. Drilling drilling holes in pictures

     Diameter holes (mm)	Cost for 1 cm. diamond drilling rubles
     	Gypsum - Brick	Concrete - Monolith
     22-42	32	38
     52-102	28	30
     112-122	28	35
     132-142	28	40
     152-162	30	48
     182	32	56
     200	38	60
     225	44	70
     250	48	76
     300	60	90
     325	68	98
     350	74	115
     400*	100	130
     450*	125	160
     500*	150	180
     * Diamond drilling diameter holes 400-500 mm requires 380 V. 6 kW.
     + 10% for diamond drilling walls more than 120 cm thick
     For collecting water with a vacuum cleaner when drilling holes negotiable price

• 
  DIAMOND CUTTING WITH WALL CUTTER
  OPENINGS IN REINFORCED CONCRETE WALLS

  1. Less than 20 sqm see prices for standard openings
     

     Concrete thickness walls in a panel house	Price for 1 sq.m. hand carvers	Diamond cutting kolcerez
     up to 10 cm	from 2000
     11-12 cm	from 3000
     13-15 cm	from 5000
     16-18 cm	from 7000
     19-20 cm	from 8000
     21-22 cm	from 9000
     23-24 cm	from 9500
     25-28 cm	from 10000
     29-35 cm	from 12500
     36-40 cm	from 12500
     Foundation block 40 cm	from 12500
     Foundation block 50 cm	from 14000
     Foundation block 60 cm	from 15000
     In a monolithic wall + 10%
     Prices for ready-made standard openings Cutting the opening into 2 parts or along the perimeter. Dismantling of the cut-out slab for lifting parts is included in the price.
     Floor / panel thickness Price for cutting 1 r.m. 14 cm from 1800 16 cm from 2000 18 cm from 2200 20 cm from 2400 22 cm from 2600 25 cm from 2900 28 cm from 3200 30 cm from 3400 32 cm from 4200 In the monolith + 10% OPENINGS IN OTHER MATERIALS EXPANSION OF OPENINGS IN CONCRETE WALLS Concrete thickness walls Price for 1 r.m. diamond cutting by hand cutters Diamond cutting kolcerez 8 cm 850 10-12 cm 1100-1200 13-15 cm 1600-2100 16-18 cm 2200-2600 19-20 cm 2800-3200 21-22 cm 23-24 cm from 3500 25-28 cm from 3800 29-35 cm from 4000 36-40 cm from 4500 Foundation block 40 cm 3500 Foundation block 50 cm 4500 Foundation block 60 cm 5500 In a monolithic wall + 10% EXPANSION OF OPENINGS IN BRICK WALLS Brick wall thickness Price for 1 r.m. 1/4 brick (6-8 cm) from 600 1/2 brick (12.5 cm) from 800 1 brick (25 cm) from 1500 1.5 bricks (37-40 cm) from 2000 2 bricks (50 cm) from 3000 3 bricks (75 cm) from 4000 CONSTRUCTION OF PARTITIONS AND FILLING OF OPENINGS Erection of partitions without delivery and material cost Price for 1 sq.m. Construction of partitions from foam blocks from 10 sq.m. 650 Construction of partitions from tongue-and-groove blocks from 10 sq.m. 600 Sealing one opening with foam blocks 4500 BREAKING WALLS. DISMANTLING AND CUTTING PARTITIONS KNOWING THE FLOOR SCREED Cement, concrete screed thick Price for 1 sq.m. up to 4 cm 250 5-6 cm 300 7-8 cm 350 9-10 cm 400 11-15 cm from 550 16-20 cm from 850 + 50 % on a reinforced screed SHIPPING. STRABS AND CHILDREN Shredding walls and ceilings without a vacuum cleaner. Our conditions for scaling Name of works Concrete r.m. Brick r.m. Shtraba electr. on the wall 2 x 2 cm 300 200 Shtraba electr. on the wall 3 x 3 cm 350 250 Shtraba electr. on the ceiling 2 x 2 cm 350 - Plumbing 6 x 6 cm 1250 650 Plumbing 10 x 10 cm 2100 1250 Shtraba 15 x 15 cm 3150 2100 Socket-socket 1 pc. 350 250 Approximate cost of turnkey electrics (excluding the cost of materials) One room apartment 35000-45000 rubles Two-roomed flat 45000-65000 rubles Three room flat 65000-90000 rubles SCRAPPING AND DISMANTLING PRE-REPAIR WORKS Name slave Price per 1 sq.m. The approximate cost of pre-repair work for one apartment when breaking partitions, dismantling a plumbing, removing a screed, removing parquet flooring, knocking down tiles, knocking down plaster from the walls, taking out garbage (excluding the cost of containers). 1850-2300 rubles for 1 sq.m of the total area of ​​the apartment Knocking down plaster from the walls 200-300 Knocking plaster from the ceiling 300-400 Knocking tiles off the walls 200 off the walls 200-300 Removal of dry plaster (g / cardboard) from the ceiling 300-400 Dismantling of parquet, floorboards 200-300 Removal of linoleum, carpet 200 Dismantling of lags, gratings 100-250 Dismantling built-in wardrobes 600 (per item) Dismantling door frames without preservation 200 (per piece) Excavation of construction backfill 250-500 TRANSPORTATION OF CONSTRUCTION DEBRIS Only the garbage that remains after our work Name of works Price Garbage removal and loading of 1 container 8 cubic meters 4 tons ( with cost container 7000 rubles) including the cost of bags 16000 garbage removal with one opening (2x0.9 openings in walls with a thickness 14-18 cm) 10000 Garbage removal and loading of 1 container 8 cubic meters 4 tons (without cost container including the cost of bags) 9500 Loading garbage into bags without taking out (excluding the cost of bags) for one bag 25 Garbage take-out rates are given using the lift. If there is no lift, starting from the 2nd floor + 3000 rubles for one floor for one container Important! When removing garbage, the customer must provide the ability to drive a car with a container within 20 meters from the entrance to the staircase. If this is not possible, we only load the garbage in bags or the cost of removal is negotiated separately. We do not specialize in garbage removal and disposal, "Tajiks, Uzbeks, Kyrgyz, Chinese, Japanese :)" do not work for us. To reduce the cost of this work, order the loading and removal of garbage from companies engaged in garbage disposal. We do not have our own containers, we order containers through dispatchers. If you have the opportunity to order a container for garbage cheaper - order, we do not mind. The average cost of a container in Moscow within the Moscow Ring Road is 6500-7000 rubles. REINFORCEMENT OF OPENINGS Including metal and its delivery. Strengthening openings in photos Amplification type Application area Price for 1 lm including the cost and delivery of metal Single row reinforcement up to 15 cm 14-16 channel from 2500 Single row reinforcement Standard reinforcement for concrete wall openings up to 18 cm 18-20 channel from 3000

The owner of the apartment will be held liable for illegal redevelopment of residential premises. To avoid unpleasant situations, it is necessary to agree on the redevelopment of a residential property in the Moscow Housing Inspection.

Coordination of a doorway in the load-bearing wall of a panel and brick house in Moscow

In order to agree on a doorway in a load-bearing wall in an apartment of a panel or brick house in 2020, it is necessary to develop a project to strengthen the opening and coordinate it with the authors of the house project, in Moscow most often they are:

• JSC "MNIITEP"
• JSC "Mosproekt",
• JSC "TsNIIEP Housing".

The design engineer must conduct a survey of the state of the supporting structures in the re-planned room, as well as in the apartments above and below, in order to correctly calculate the reinforcement of the opening. After the survey, you will receive a technical conclusion of the structural survey (TZK) and a diagram of strengthening the doorway.

Assistance in coordinating and legalizing a doorway in a load-bearing wall

In order to agree on the redevelopment of an apartment with the device of a doorway in the bearing wall in the Moscow Housing Inspection, you must:

• order a technical passport for an apartment at the Bureau of Technical Inventory;
• inspect capital structures;
• to develop a project for redevelopment and reinforcement of the opening in the load-bearing wall;
• to prepare a technical conclusion for the examination of structures and the possibility of arranging an opening in a load-bearing wall by the author of the project at home or in the Expert Center;
• make copies of title documents and certify them with a notary;
• write an application for approval of the redevelopment addressed to the head of the Moscow Housing Inspection.

Sometimes, for redevelopment in an apartment or a private house, it is necessary to make a new door or window opening. Creating an opening in the load-bearing wall of an apartment building is not an easy task. Things are easier with redevelopment in a private house, here everyone is his own master.

What is a doorway? This is a hole in the wall for installing entry blocks. The fixed fixed element in the space between the walls is called the door frame. Often, an arch is made as a decorating element of the interior.

The device of a doorway in a load-bearing brick wall

Before starting work, you need to contact a specialist who will make a demo project with all calculations based on the wishes of the client. To implement the project, significant costs are required, which start from an amount of 30 thousand rubles. So if you get down to business, you need to foresee a lot. Independent work on the device of the doorway will help the owner save money - it will cost about 15 thousand rubles.

Arrangement of a new opening

• it must comply with building codes;
• position the hole, preferably in the central part of the support structure;
• it is necessary to match the upper part with the cement joint of the masonry;
• the inter-wall space up to 0.9 m wide does not need reinforcement operations.

When creating an inter-wall space in a supporting wall, you need to create a reinforcement correctly... Important when changing the design of the walls is the safety of life of other residents of an apartment building and the preservation of the structure of the building itself.

Work order

First of all, you need to decide on the location of the additional space for entry and exit. It all starts with the markup... You need to decide on the width of the hole, and then begin to determine its future location with a pencil. From the outer wall, you need to measure the distance and make a mark - from here we begin to draw the contour of the future intra-wall space.

A thick wall structure is cut on both sides, therefore, marking will be necessary on the back side as well.

For their exact match, it is necessary to drill several holes according to the pencil markings (Fig. 1). And then on the other side, connect all the holes with a pencil line.

The above manipulations should be carried out using a building level, a triangle and a ruler..

Since we will make the space in the load-bearing wall of a brick house, it is necessary to take care of auxiliary partitions and lintels in advance (Fig. 2).

Removing a section of a wall

Before starting work, it is necessary to free the supporting wall structure from the plaster layer along the drawn line so that the seams of the masonry are visible. However, it is necessary to remove the plaster very carefully, because most likely, there is a wiring under it - damage can lead to the destruction of the entire power supply system.

When the seams at the site of the future empty space are visible, you can start working. It is necessary to start removing bricks from the very top. First, the top row of bricks is removed, which will be the width of the entire door space... A jumper is inserted here, on which the structure will be held.

Further, more holes are made above the jumper. It is necessary to mount a beam into the resulting hole, which will act as a support. The support beam must be supported with a jack so that the structure does not collapse during operation. The beam and jack will support the weight of the entire wall structure (fig. 3).

Then all holes are lubricated with a concrete solution. After the concrete mixture has dried, you can continue to work on knocking out bricks.

The structure should be reinforced when the width of the door space is more than one meter..

To protect the floor from falling bricks, it is necessary to make a flooring of planks. Bricks should be removed with diamond drills to minimize damage to the wall structure.

Violation of the brick removal technology can lead to weakening of the structure, its premature wear and deformation..

It should be noted that the space under the door must be 10-20 centimeters larger than the door or window frame. This gap can be filled with polyurethane foam.

Strengthening the opening

Strengthening works take the maximum amount of time, since they are carried out painstakingly. Organized empty space under a door or arch must be reinforced with channels... It is advisable to use a channel lintel with vertical posts. Channels are mounted on both sides, which are screwed into the previously installed wooden lintel using bolts (Fig. 4).

If the space in the wall structure is wide, then it is reinforced not only in the upper part, but also on the sides (Fig. 5).

How to identify a load-bearing wall in a brick house?

The most basic way to identify a supporting wall is to familiarize yourself with the plan of the living space. Such a plan is mandatory in the data sheet or house book. To understand the diagrams and drawings, you need to have a little sketching skills. Experience in construction would not be superfluous. Then you can easily distinguish a supporting wall from a regular partition.

Usually interior walls are no more than 18 centimeters thick. The smallest retaining wall thickness is 38 centimeters - a masonry of three bricks... A four-brick laying is possible, which forms a wall 51 centimeters thick. Quite often the thickness of the walls in brick houses is 64 centimeters - five-brick masonry (Fig. 6).

If the plan could not be found, then it is worth using the general rules for determining the load-bearing walls in the house:

• if the walls face the street, we can definitely say that they are supportive;
• walls shared with neighbors;
• wall thickness over 380 mm, as mentioned earlier;
• walls overlooking the staircase.

External finishing

After completing work on the formation of an opening in a brick load-bearing wall, everything must be decoratively finished (Fig. 7). What is needed for this? First of all, you need to decide on the choice of finishing material. Whether it is wood, plastic or decorative stone - you decide. Next, you need to show a little imagination and create decorative elements in the formed space of the brick wall.

For self-cladding, you should have basic knowledge in the field of finishing work, and you also need a special tool.

If it is necessary to arrange the space under the door without its presence, then it is worth using additional boards. This will add elegance to your new room design and add sophistication to the interior. You can create such a cladding yourself.

The opening made in the form of an arch looks beautiful. As a rule, arches come in round or lancet shapes. To determine the shape of the arch for the client, check out the design catalogs. The most common today are the Byzantine and Greek styles. In some cases, the arch can be backlit.

Repeatedly in our life we ​​come across renovations of apartments or houses. And often this process is accompanied by the construction of new entrances. But what to do when, behind the layout, this passage is in the load-bearing wall? This task is not at all an easy one. By making a mistake, the structure of the room as a whole may suffer. The situation is complicated if a person decides to do all the work with his own hands, but in no case should you despair. You just need to take into account some of the subtleties of working with a load-bearing wall.

Redevelopment approval

Before starting work, it is necessary to obtain the consent of the relevant authorities. Their response is influenced by the following factors:

• housing construction (so that the room is not completely destroyed due to the opening);
• deterioration of walls (walls, like people, have the properties of aging and losing their former strength and durability);
• type and thickness of the wall;
• placement of the opening (it should not coincide with the junction of floors and walls);
• the size of the opening in relation to the area of ​​the wall;
• the gap between the opening and the adjacent walls;
• the gap between the highest edge of the opening and the overlap;
• opening width;
• the number of floors above the opening.

Only after receiving a positive response from the relevant authorities do we proceed to work directly.

Choice of tools

The first step in any construction work is to prepare the equipment. Professional builders use a concrete cutter, a tool for working with load-bearing walls with their own hands - a jackhammer, and a puncher will also work. In addition, you will need:

• sledgehammer;
• equipment for marking;
• welding;
• studs or bolts (depending on the profile);
• nuts;
• washers;
• channels;
• cement mortar.

Preparatory work

1. Make sure there are no electrical connections behind the wall or disconnect them.

2. Mark the outline of the opening. Due to the fact that the load-bearing walls are very thick, they have to be disassembled from 2 sides.

3. Drill through holes with a 12 mm drill bit in the corners of the contour. They will help you navigate while marking the opening from the other side.

4. Cut the channels to the required length.

Installing the jumper

The jumper is the most important component in the entire process. The load on the load-bearing walls will be transferred to this part, therefore the safety of the whole house depends on the correct installation.

To install, first of all we knock down the plaster and knock out a recess along the upper line of the opening, we will lay the channel in it. The length of the recess is: width of the opening plus one meter. The profile should fit tightly into the place prepared for it. We clean the remnants of the brick with a wire brush and rinse with water.

For tightening fasteners, we drill holes in the profile with a step of approximately 3 cm (no more). When everything is ready, we moisten the surface and apply cement mortar, into which we immerse the channel. We drill through the wall, focusing on the prepared holes. On the other hand, thanks to the previous stage of work, we can easily outline and knock out the same niche. Insert the second profile into it (with holes drilled, as in the first) and tighten both channels with studs (bolts), at the ends of which we put washers and tighten the nuts. We fill the voids in the profiles with concrete or brick.

Another way to set the jumper:

In addition to the above-described jumper installation method, there is a second one. For it, we need two beams with an L-shaped profile. This design is called precast concrete lintel. Such profiles do not need to be tightened with studs (bolts). After the grooves in the places of the lintel support have been cleaned, we put a thick layer of cement mortar on both sides. Next, we proceed with the installation of a reinforced concrete beam. When the solution dries, we can start cutting the opening.

Cutting the opening depending on the material

Many people are worried about how to make an opening in a brick wall. In fact, of all materials, this process will be the simplest with brick. Removing one row, all the rest will go without problems. The situation is completely different with concrete. It will take a long and difficult work with a puncher.

• We knock out the concrete wall:

We make an opening in the concrete load-bearing wall, to make our work easier, we will act as follows:

1. Divide the wall area into several small squares.

2. We cut the concrete along the marked contours using a grinder or drill with a perforator (this will take more time).

3. Separate elements of the wall are knocked out with a sledgehammer quite simply, while in others it will be necessary to disassemble the reinforcement.

Who is more convenient to see how to properly break through the load-bearing wall video is at the end of the article.

• Finishing works:

After the opening is ready, it is necessary to additionally strengthen it. We weld a solid strip of steel, approximately 6 mm thick, between the two channels. Another option: we weld the plates with a step of 2 cm. On both sides of the opening we install corners or, if they are absent, channels are also suitable, but they will require niches. We weld them to the upper crossbar of the opening. Also, we connect each pair of corners with steel plates and tighten them with studs (for them, on corners or channels, it is necessary to drill holes in advance). If this reinforcement seems not enough for you, then make the load-bearing wall more durable, install the lower horizontal lintel, weld it to the racks.

The door from the window

Often there are cases when the door is planned to be made in place of the window. This operation does not require much effort.

In order to make a door from the window of a load-bearing wall with our own hands, we need:

• steel corners (required at an angle of 90 degrees);
• channels;
• reinforced concrete beams;
• powerful puncher;
• ruler;
• Bulgarian;
• sledgehammer;
• Sander.

The first step is to remove the window. In its old place there may be remnants of plaster and paint, we remove them with a grinder. After we get rid of the lower partition, if it is made of brick, then we simply punch it with a sledgehammer, if it is concrete, then we cut it out as with a regular opening. If there were metal fragments in the partition, we get rid of them with a grinder. We disassemble the plasterboard partition in parts (we eliminate the screws in the first cases).

We get rid of the debris and start installing the jumper. The lintel is installed using the same technology as when creating a doorway from scratch.

Considering that we make the opening in the load-bearing wall, it is advisable to fix the overlapping structures using long vertical posts along the entire height of the housing.

Arch in the load-bearing wall

Sometimes, instead of a doorway, the owners put an arch. It looks much prettier. But there are many nuances in working with an arch. For example, only a professional can make it in a brick house, since a relationship with the location of the masonry seams is required. With a panel house, things are different. This option can be done independently.

• We make an arch in the load-bearing wall of a panel house:

First of all, we cut out a U-shaped opening, which we reinforce with profiles, we will inscribe an arch into it. The next step is to measure the doorway.

After measuring, we proceed to create the frame:

1. We make a frame on which in the future we will attach a curved strip, for it we use a profile 27 by 28.

2. We select scissors for metal, it will be most convenient to work with those that have a spring mechanism (in this type, the handles themselves fold back after compression).

3. We cut the profile, 2 sides out of three, it is necessary that it takes on an arched shape (the steeper you plan to bend, the more often we make cuts).

4. Turn the profile clockwise to one side, thereby placing it inside the fixed right front part of the arch (the second should be on the opposite side).

5. We make cuts in the upper and middle parts every 50 mm.

6. The frame is ready, but it should be strengthened. We install the crossbars made from a profile of 60 by 27, securing them with short self-tapping screws.

7. Install the frame in the opening.

Next, we need to make the front parts of the arch. To do this, you can choose any material, but drywall is the best option in self-production. The front parts are in the shape of a semicircle. To get the ideal shape, we will make a "compass" out of handy things. Take the thread and fix it in the center of the semicircle, measure the radius (the width of the opening divided by two) and fix the other end on a pencil. We draw, cut out and attach to the frame. Our arch is ready, we can safely plaster or paint it.

Connecting a room with a balcony

A balcony is always made in a load-bearing wall, this is the main problem. It is very difficult to get permission to connect it to the room. In addition, it should be borne in mind that a balcony is a settling area in case of a fire. It is easiest to remove a person from it. Therefore, before deciding on such a step, think carefully.

If the decision has not changed, and you have received permission, then start the following work. The first step is to glaze the balcony. Next, we dismantle the wall, but since it is a load-bearing one, we must install a jumper that will take on the entire load. Also, during the work, it will be necessary to raise the floor on the balcony. The last step will be to insulate the balcony.

It should be added that this process is very laborious and for safety it is better to consult a professional.

Closing the old doorway

Very often, after creating a new entrance, the need for the previous one disappears and it must be repaired. In the case of an internal partition, it is possible to lay a plasterboard sheet, then with an external one, in addition to the capital bookmark, there are no other options. For embedding we use materials such as brick or foam block.

First, let's prepare the hole. We remove the plaster (and if present, then the paint) to the very base. We do this process along the entire wall, and not only in places of slopes. In the brick opening, we make recesses that will be needed for bonding with fresh masonry. Remove half of the brick in every fourth row. We drill one-sided holes at the ends of the concrete wall and drive metal rods into them, 7-9 mm thick. A prerequisite is that the holes are in places between the rows of future masonry. We cover the threshold of the opening with waterproofing, it will serve as roofing material.

Before laying each subsequent brick row, it is necessary to pull the thread in a horizontal position between two opposite walls of the opening. This is required to avoid masonry errors. To be completely sure it is also worth the building level. We knit the rods looking out between the rows with reinforcement (in exchange, a masonry mesh is suitable).

After we have laid the opening with bricks, we wait a day and start plastering. Areas that have been freed from plaster and the masonry itself is primed. We attach a steel mesh to the primer (for greater strength) and plaster again. The amount of plaster solution to be applied depends on the unevenness of the walls.

The openings in the inner part are much easier to seal. First, we install the crate (using a profile) on one side of the old passage. Having plastered the first side, you can proceed to the installation of the lathing on the opposite. We lay a sound insulator (prerequisite) and sheathe it with panels. Finishing work will be finalized.

Making a new doorway in a load-bearing wall is tricky, but looking at your renovated room will tell you that it was well worth the effort. This process is possible even with your own hands, without the help of professionals. The main thing is to follow all the recommendations for working with supporting structures, and you will not have any problems. And always remember, in this matter, safety comes first.

Quite often, when you make major repairs to an apartment, there is a desire to move the doorway. This is connected not so much with the uniqueness of the apartment project, as with its inconvenience, since in some projects of our apartments there is no logic at all. Therefore, if you want to make an opening in the main wall, or make a door in it, then we would like to consider this issue in this article.

Many of the apartment owners are wondering whether it is possible to make an opening in the load-bearing wall of a panel house. Theoretically, an opening in the load-bearing wall can be made, but there are a lot of "BUTs" here. First, you need to agree on the redevelopment. Why? It is unnecessary to assume that the permission and approval of the opening is a purely bureaucratic procedure. It is such because of the officials, and it was created with good intentions, so that your changes do not violate the structure of the building and so that the building simply does not start to collapse, especially an apartment building.

A self-made opening in the wall is of two types: unlawful and legalized. Their differences are as follows: a legalized layout is a guarantee of quality and safety, you will be sure that you did not harm the supporting structures of the house and the opening itself will be made according to all the rules. An unlawful opening in the wall will help you avoid the procedure of legalizing the redevelopment at the initial stage, but if the fact of redevelopment in the future is established, then you will be obliged to lay the opening or require its legalization, and with the payment of a fine. Therefore, the site builders strongly advise you to do everything legally, in addition, the permissive documentation will include a clear and detailed redevelopment plan, which will simplify the procedure for making the opening.

When everything is agreed, you hire a team of builders, or make the opening yourself, using special equipment. Before making an opening in a concrete wall, it must be cleaned of paint and wallpaper, after which you need to mark the opening on the wall on one side. When the marking is applied, we transfer it to another wall, this can be done using beacons, that is, on the side where the marking is located, you make through holes, based on them you will transfer the marking of the opening to the other side of the wall. This must be done due to the fact that the opening will be cut from both sides and so that the "contours" of the opening are even and symmetrical.

Attention! In order to make an opening in the wall, never use percussion tools such as a jackhammer. Due to the high degree of impacts, cracks and other damage may appear on the wall.

In order to make an opening, you will need a 12 mm drill, a grinder and a diamond-coated disc for it. The opening is made in parts, divide the opening space into parts, approximately 40 by 40 cm and cut it out with such pieces. To do this, with a step of 3-4 cm, make through holes with a drill, and then cut out this part with a grinder. When cutting, use a construction vacuum cleaner, which will collect all the dust. When you pull out the cut-out parts of the wall, make the flooring out of wood materials so as not to damage the floor.

The next stage of work is the so-called strapping. It is necessary for strengthening. Strapping is done using metal corners, plates and reinforced rods. More details about the installation of the strapping, the width and length of the corners, as well as other nuances will be described in the project documentation.